Norway: Nomadic holidays between fjords and northern islands (page 2 of 4)

What a marvel this travel journal is, thanks Adeline for this lovely share!! So inspiring 🙂

Definitely has a Scottish vibe with the fog, and an Icelandic one with those grass-roofed houses!! 😉

Can't wait for the next part!! 😎

Day 11 - Tuesday, July 16: From the Atlantic to Trondheim, via the garage

After the rain, the sunshine finally starts to reappear at sunrise. We enjoy the tranquility of the seaside and its small islets (inhabited!).





Then we take the famous curved bridges of the Atlantic Ocean Road.







We continue the drive toward Trondheim. To give my husband a break—he’s been driving almost since the start of the trip—I try my hand at driving the camper van (I’d already driven a bit toward Jostedal). Since I don’t like winding roads, I thought the route to Trondheim would be a peaceful straight line...

Big mistake—the road is narrow, way too narrow for me. I’m not comfortable with the size of the vehicle, and what was bound to happen, happened: I smashed the mirror against another camper van 🏴‍☠️ We end up on the side of the road, exchanging details with the other people. Luckily, they’re Swiss and French-speaking, and they rented their camper van in Germany...

In our misfortune, we’re still lucky because we’re close to Trondheim, a city with a Touring Car agency, our rental company. They’re very professional, call us right away, and tell us to head there. When we arrive, a new mirror is waiting for us, and 20 minutes later, we’re back on the road. Phew... Though our wallet is now 600 € lighter 🤪

We continue past Trondheim and find a really nice spot by the sea.

What a lovely travel journal, thanks Adeline! 😊 I did the Trollstigen route by bus, and the driver regretted that tourists venture there without assessing the difficulty. I think strawberries love the north—this summer in Quebec, some French travelers were bringing them back in their carry-on luggage (safer than in the hold 😅)... the strawberries from Brittany and Belgium taste better to me than those grown further south... there, I’ve just upset the residents of Var 😬

We drove the Trollstigen (Trolls' Road) in our camper van, and we found (though we live in Switzerland) that it was nothing compared to some mountain passes. But obviously, for those used to driving in the Beauce region or Belgium...

Hey Euphroozine,

Come on, admit it!!! You work for the Norwegian tourism office and they hired you to attract tourists!!! With a travel journal like that, such beautiful photos showcasing the stunning landscapes, ...... spill the beans, tell us everything....😏

There you go!!! You just put Norway on my wish list!!!

Anyway, congrats on the travel journal.😏

See you soon!

Thanks everyone for your messages, it's really nice 😉

Nope, I don’t work for the tourist office lol 😛 But it’s true that reading all the blogs and travel journals makes you want to go, so I’m sharing these amazing landscapes in return.

But wait, the "best" is yet to come, because the Lofoten and Senja islands are just wow effect 😇

We did the Trollstigen (Trolls' Road) in our camper van, and we found (though we live in Switzerland) that it was nothing compared to some mountain passes. But obviously for those used to driving in the Beauce or Belgium...

Oh yeah, it's clear that Trollstigen, even if it's still impressive, isn't the "worst" road! The narrow roads and pitch-black tunnels where you can't pass each other on Senja Island take the prize for the "impossible roads" 😎

Day 12 - Wednesday, July 17 - Beyond the Arctic Circle

Well, here we are—our last night in Norway. But no, the holiday isn’t over, don’t go anywhere! It’s just that now we’re crossing the Arctic Circle and beyond, and at this time of year, the sun doesn’t set. Okay, it’s not *permanent* sunlight anymore, but we still get it since we’re heading up to Tromsø—the night almost won’t catch up with us.

We’re taking the E6, and contrary to appearances, it’s not a big highway at all, and it’s not straight like the maps make it seem. We’re driving through vast forest landscapes—it’s really quite lovely.



We spot a moose by the side of the road, but not quick enough to photograph it.

And then—there it is—the nooorrrth.



We’re not taking the detour via Route 17, but it must be beautiful. We’re pushing on as fast as we can to reach the Lofoten Islands and make the most of the sunshine forecast until the weekend. (For info, I’d booked the ferry crossing well in advance, but since we were ahead of schedule and there wasn’t *that* much to see or detour for around here—or at least we’d rather spend more time on the islands—I changed the ticket to move it up a day. But I took the only spot left on the evening boat, and it turned out to be a good call.)

Then the Arctic Circle arrives—an imaginary line but full of symbolism, the feeling of almost reaching the North Pole!





We stop for the night along a river, at a trailhead parking lot—really peaceful and quiet (like pretty much everywhere else, actually).

Well, there you have it—our last night in Norway. But no, the holiday isn’t over yet! Don’t leave—it’s just that we’re about to cross the Arctic Circle, and at this time of year, the sun doesn’t set. Though, I guess this *is* the end of the permanent sunshine…

Back in 2014, we caught one of the last midnight suns of the season on a beach on the west coast of the Lofoten Islands, and it was July 12th

Day 13 - Thursday, July 18: Bodø, hike, boat, absolutely stunning

We’re really close to Bodø, and I couldn’t get a boat any earlier than 6:30 PM. What on earth are we going to do? The Rough Guide says there’s nothing interesting around here 🤪. Luckily, TripAdvisor is more encouraging and promises a 360° view after a short hike up the hills around Bodø. No time to waste—we’re off (and we’re so glad we did!).

First, the road is just gorgeous.



Even the train passes through here!



So we start the hike—it’s pretty easy and well-marked (though really, you just have to climb 😇).

And at the top—wow! So this is what they call "ugly" around Bodø? These guidebooks must be out of their minds...







I mean, the beaches and the color of the water!!!



And we’re not even in the Lofoten yet!!!!

After a good picnic, how about checking out the beaches up close? We’re right near the ferry, it’s warm, and we’ve got time—let’s go!





We’re so happy with this unplanned stop—those mountains we spotted to the south and north of Bodø must be great to explore too!

But another wow moment is coming—it’s time to board for the Lofoten. I’m so excited; I’ve been dreaming about this for years, seeing all those photos, and now it’s finally happening!



The crossing goes smoothly.





And the arrival in the Lofoten comes into view.



We quickly disembark the ferry in Moskenes and hit the road, hoping to see the midnight sun. It’s past 10:30 PM when we arrive in Reine, and it’s just breathtaking with this light.









We drive to Skagsanden Beach, where we easily find a spot for the night (with heated restrooms 😇).

And here we are, all set—just waiting to soak in this never-ending sunset.



It’s another wow moment—but I think I’ve said that already, right?



Time flies—it’s midnight.



And as if drawn into this frozen moment, we just stay there, taking it all in. Okay, it’s almost 1 AM—one last photo for the road, and then off to bed with stars in our eyes (even if we can’t see them in the sky).

What else can I say: wow! 😍 Thanks again for sharing! 😊

Day 14 - Friday, July 19: Reinebringen, A, wow wow!!

After falling asleep under the sun and the sound of little waves, we wake up in the same conditions. The day promises to be dazzling. And it sure was!

First, let’s take a look outside,





We head back toward Reine, but we keep having to stop—it’s just too beautiful!







And here we are, arriving in Reine—it’s truly the spot we loved most in the Lofoten.





We set off to conquer Reinebringen. The trail has been almost entirely redone (just the last few meters left) by Nepalese workers. So it’s much more "accessible" now—though it’s basically a giant staircase, and it’s steep, but nothing like the old trail, from what I’d read.



Of course, easier access means crowds. Sure, we weren’t alone at the top, but when we got there, everyone had the same word on their lips: wow!





The view is absolutely stunning—it feels like you’re in a drone, flying over everything. We spend long minutes just taking it all in, playing "Where’s Waldo?" with the "tiny" cars, boats, and colorful houses.

Time to head back down and see Reine from "below."









We continue exploring the Lofoten, making our way to A.





It’s so nice out (and warm—yes, 21°C!!!) that we end the day at the beach, where we go for a swim—well, actually, we just dip our feet in 😛. It’s not cold; we’re just chilling, relaxed on the sand...





It’s even so pleasant that we can’t resist dining outside—our first time since we left! You’re not dreaming—we’re well beyond the Arctic Circle, and yet here we are!!

Cheers!

There we go, I want to see these islands now! 😫😩

Just one word: magnificent! You can really feel the freshness!

Day 15 - Saturday, July 20 - A view from above and Nusfjord

This morning, it's still really hot—so much so that we have breakfast outside...

Next, we tackle a hike up Mount Nubben. It's a "small" summit (240m) above Ramberg Beach, but the climb is straight up and really steep... Luckily, the dry weather makes it easier, but once again, when it's wet, watch out for slips!!



At the top, the landscape is absolutely stunning, even though the clouds are rolling in.



What a gorgeous panorama!



In the distance, the "pot" is boiling over and spewing clouds.



On the way down, we pass by a storage place for dried cod.



Then we head to Ramberg Beach for lunch—perfect for dipping our feet in the water.





We continue our journey, playing hide-and-seek with the fog.



Good timing—this fog isn’t (yet) in Nusfjord. What to say about this village? It’s cute, for sure, but is it really worth the 200 NOK entry fee 🏴‍☠️???? Seriously expensive...













Anyway, it’s super peaceful and not at all packed like I’d read in the guidebooks...

Alright, let’s go—the fog’s rolling in!





We spend the night at Haukland Beach, where there’s a beach volleyball tournament going on. But we’re completely fogged in!

J16 - Sunday, July 21 - Hike up Mannen

Great, the fog is lifting!



Off we go for the beautiful ascent of Mannen, the summit overlooking the beach.



The climb is fairly easy, and despite the lack of signs, the path is easy to find. Soon we’re on the ridge, with the sea on the left and the sea on the right!

We stop just before the summit, but the view is already stunning! Another wow moment—we’ll stay a while to soak it all in!!







We descend via the other side, onto Utakleiv beach, where we have a picnic. The drizzle forces us to pack up sooner than planned. Too bad—the setting is gorgeous.



A flat path circles the mountain to return to Haukland beach. After a few gloomy hours, the sun comes back, and we enjoy the beach again.











Since we’re comfortable and the spot is lovely, we decide to stay and sleep here for a second night... Note that there are *tons* of campers with tents.

Day 17 - Monday, July 22 - Eggum and Henningsvær

This morning, the sky is overcast, yet the atmosphere is still beautiful with that turquoise water.





We leave our beach and head back up toward Eggum. The sculpture afterward is a bit original, but honestly, it’s not really worth the detour... Still, the surroundings are really lovely.







Our daughter is turning 8 today! It’s still pretty unusual to celebrate a birthday in a place like this...



The sun comes back out, and those beaches—each one is just as stunning as the next.







We spend the afternoon in Henningsvær, a cute little village.

Day 18 - Wednesday, July 23: Vesterålen Islands

We slept near Rørvik beach. A very pretty spot but not particularly quiet...





We continue our journey north toward the Vesterålen Islands. But first, let’s hit the road and enjoy these viewpoints. Still so beautiful.

Here, a perfect mirror



And here, majestic mountains





Now we’re in the Vesterålen Islands—still stunning.



We chose Andøya Island so we could later head to Senja.







Near Andenes, we find a gorgeous spot to spend the night. It was supposed to be our hiking departure, but the "heat" (a whopping 23°C) got the better of us, and we ended up having a great beach afternoon instead.















What a magnificent spot for a peaceful night.



And to enjoy some delicious Norwegian salmon.



Day 19 - Thursday, July 24

A gray day... The forecasted bad weather has arrived. It’s not too bothersome since we have over 2 hours of ferry time to Senja Island. Senja is gorgeous, but wow, the roads! So narrow!!! And unfortunately, the clouds are getting lower and lower—we can’t see a thing. Such a shame... But hey, we’re in the north, right? 😛

Day 20 - Thursday, July 25 - Hesten Hike

The low clouds are finally clearing—great, since we’re planning to hike today! 🙂 We’re heading up to Hesten to see the Segla peak. But first, we’ve got to tackle the road—wow, it’s narrow! We pass through unlit tunnels where you can’t pass another car, so you have to pull into the designated recesses...

From a distance, we spot Segla, that tooth-shaped summit.



The trail starts in the woods and then climbs quite a bit, but it’s actually much easier than the other paths we’ve taken.



We make it to a pass and then cut more directly toward the cliff. The summit of Hesten seems pretty rocky and a bit tricky, but it doesn’t matter—the view is just incredible.







We head back down calmly in the afternoon. The weather’s starting to cloud over. Day 21 - Friday, July 26 - Toward Sommarøy Island

We take the ferry to Sommarøy Island, but the weather’s turning. We’d planned a hike to a small summit, but we wait for it to clear—unfortunately, the clouds just keep getting lower. We give it a shot anyway, but we can’t see a thing 😐 Too bad, it was our last hike. 😕

J22 - Saturday, July 27 - Return to Tromsø

We wake up again in the fog. Yet the weather forecast promised perfect conditions... We have to return the campervan to Tromsø by 2:00 PM, so we take our time. Unfortunately, the weather clears up just as we need to leave... Still, we enjoy it on the road.





Returning the campervan goes smoothly. We settle the hefty bill for the broken mirror (600 € 🏴‍☠️). Then we’re taken to our hotel in Tromsø for this last Norwegian night.

We explore the city at a leisurely pace.











J23 - Sunday, July 28 - Return

Well, the time has come to end our holiday—we take the flight to Oslo. The French heatwave has reached here too; it’s 30°C!!!



One last goodbye to Norway, and we fly off to Bordeaux...

Conclusion:

It was a wonderful trip. We loved the landscapes, the hikes, the weather... We really appreciated the campervan—it was perfect for this country and the freedom it gave us! We’d love to try this way of traveling for a California and West Coast national parks road trip... Maybe in a few years??

Happy to answer any questions, of course! 😛