🙂
Mae Nam/ Koh Samui (15 days):
We connected directly from our Lyon-BKK Suvarnabhumi flight with Bangkok Airways (domestic flight duration: 1 hour). Just 15 short minutes in line at Suvarnabhumi Immigration.
We spent our first nights in Moo1 ("old" Mae Nam), second line from the sea, where we’re welcomed and treated like loyal guests (for 25 years now), at 500 THB per night. For our last four nights in Mae Nam, we’ll move to the panoramic and recently renovated Seaview Restaurant & Hotel (listed at 890 THB per night).
It’s worth noting that regulars like us are shocked by the prices now being asked for a seaside room—minimum 1,200–1,500 THB, even when negotiated. With almost constant construction of luxury resorts or villas next door—unpredictable completion times—we’re out! 😛
The beach is pretty spotless at this time of year; the polluted rivers are naturally "closed off" by sand carried in by the sea.
For beach cleaners who want to join forces: Trash Heroes of Koh Samui (see FB).
A must-visit Thai restaurant on the walking street: Mayom Garden Food and Drinks.
The walking street is slowly losing its farang food tables: goodbye to the Japanese Kobori, the Korean Gaon, the French Chez François, and Chicken Farm Rôtisserie...
It’s no surprise that tourist traffic in Mae Nam is really struggling outside of February—just 4–6 weeks to make a living for the year. The "tourism players" are looking pretty glum...
We tried and weren’t super impressed by the afternoon tea at the Four Seasons near Nathon (poor value for money, despite pleasant service and a "chic" setting).
If it weren’t for our expat friend living in Mae Nam, we’d have ditched Koh Samui a long time ago. What’s more, with new expat rules that clearly aim to "sanitize" the Kingdom’s , our buddy—like many of his peers (not just French)—is seriously considering leaving the country...
Anyway, regarding the Calendar of Festivals in the Land of Smiles in September, after mentioning the Vegetarian Festival earlier in the thread, I’ll remind you of the celebrations:
-Asanhabucha & Khao Phansa:
https://cmdecidela.com/2019/07/15/asanhabucha-khao-phansa-2019-lentree-dans-le-careme-bouddhiste-qui-nen-est-pas-un/and Ganpati (Ganesh):
https://cmdecidela.com/2019/09/06/festival-ganpati-2019-pikanet-le-culte-du-dieu-elephant-a-la-sauce-siamoise/Also on Koh Samui, the Samui Festival (photo2).
To wrap up this trip report, a few personal experiences:
-Transport:
* Minivans: We used them 4 times, including 3 medium-distance trips. Steady max speed of 80 km/h, smooth driving—I approve this travel option.
* Scooter rental: Twice, and they didn’t ask for a driver’s license or passport either time.
* Train: Two trips, almost on time.
-Cigarettes: No problem!
-Sleep budget: On average, under 20 € for a double room with hot water, AC, kettle & fridge, and a good location (view, etc.). Half the places we chose on the spot.
-Food: While the recipes delight tourists’ taste buds, what about the quality of the ingredients?!! (Not to mention MSG, added sugar...) 🤪
-September rain test: Our previous 30 days in Thailand in Feb–March 2018 "cured" us of ever going back during peak tourist season. Back then, we asked our friends there the fatal question: to enjoy the Gulf of Siam (the Samui Archipelago and the mainland coast up to BKK)? Unanimous answer: September! Well, after this September 2019 trip, we barely approve 😎: air and water temperatures are perfect (not too hot), tourist crowds are very manageable, locals are more relaxed and available, cultural agenda...
Chok dee! Thailand.
Khrap/Thank you for reading! 😎