A Month in Laos and Cambodia (page 3 of 6)

Monday 1st and Tuesday 2nd: Return to Pakse and Don Det again

Yep, we’ve got to head back to Pakse, not without making a few stops along the way—this road winds through the mountains and ends at the three most beautiful waterfalls (all with paid entry), though only one is swimmable. We won’t miss out, and it’s late afternoon by the time we drop off the motorbikes, a bit wiped out, to be honest. We’ll spend the night at Champassak Hotel, since Jardin Hotel is full—it’s this massive, soulless hotel built on the outskirts of town by the Chinese, for the Chinese. But the beds are big, the showers are huge, and we really need to scrub up 😉





The porter’s face when he saw us arrive . Friday morning, we’re off to Don Det again, this time in a shared van. We’ll show our fellow travelers this gorgeous little island—its waterfalls, its bars—though we’ve already seen it all, so no need to do it again 😉





I’m no vet, but if you ask me, this cat we ran into during an apéro isn’t just drinking milk

it’s brilliant, with a caustic sense of humor that might bother some, but not me).

That doesn’t surprise me—I’d noticed that too 😉

Hahaha, how awful! 🤪 Poor thing 🏴‍☠️

Congrats on the photo of the man sorting cassava—his shadow really does look like a crocodile! 😎

Congrats on the photo of the man sorting the cassava: his shadow really does look like a crocodile! 😎

Amazing! In this case, it’s Mr. Vieng and it’s coffee drying, but great observation, Joël! 👍

Wednesday 3rd to Sunday 7th: Siem Reap

Today, we have to say goodbye to Laos. After being spooked by our first transfer in Luang Prabang, the 9-hour journey advertised made us give up on the shared van between Don Det and Siem Reap. The advantage of being four is that we can split the transport costs. We’ll splurge a little, so we’ll be taking a private van for our trip, which will feel more like a leisurely ride.

We’re also treating ourselves to a luxury stay in Siem Reap, as our driver will drop us off at Hari Residence & Spa. Perfectly located on the edge of the city center, with a spa, rooftop pool, and all for 50 € a night, the welcome and services are top-notch.





Our stay in Siem Reap was all about the classics, but the heavyweights! This was my first visit to this major tourist hotspot, and I was worried about the crowds. But having a French-speaking guide for three days (another perk of being a group of four) might’ve helped us experience the sites without feeling the tourist crush. Or maybe it’s just that in early January, the crowds had thinned out.

Sum Narong, found on social media, was our guide for the day. Classic itinerary: Day 1: The small circuit. Day 2: Tonle Sap and the floating villages, local market. Day 3: The grand circuit.



There are plenty of travel journals covering these spots, so I won’t dwell on them. Here are a few iconic photos:









I’d rather highlight two evenings we particularly enjoyed:

Phare, the Cambodian Circus To describe the school, here’s an excerpt from their website: "More than just a circus, Phare’s artists use theater, music, dance, and modern circus arts to tell unique Cambodian stories—historical, folkloric, and contemporary. The young circus artists will amaze you with their energy, emotion, enthusiasm, and talent, making Phare Circus the most popular modern cultural show in Siem Reap. The Phare artists are students and graduates of the Phare Ponleu Selpak ( ) vocational training center." An incredible discovery—this show blends tradition, modernity, and humor. Don’t hesitate: https://pharecircus.org/



. Apsara Theatre at Angkor Village

A bit pricier ($34), but this dinner show is top-quality, focusing on traditional Khmer Apsara dances. The theater is stunning, the meal is refined, and the dances and costumes are exceptional. It’s like seeing the Angkor frescoes come to life from our daytime visits.

https://apsaratheatre.asia/



. Sunday was a more relaxed day—exploring the city center, shopping, and chilling by the hotel pool. Sunday evening, we’re off to Sihanoukville with a surprise for our friends: a night bus transfer, another must-do on an Asia trip!!

Day 2, Tonle Sap and the floating villages, local market

Hey, did you do it by boat for 2 people? Which agency/organization?

without feeling the tourist pressure

It wasn’t so much the tourist pressure that made me regret returning to Angkor (I went during the Christmas holidays—I knew exactly what to expect… ) as the transformation of the site and Siem Reap.

The main downside for crowds is sunset. The site is big enough to spread people out...

What I miss is the Indiana Jones vibe. 🙂 It couldn’t last, of course, since the lack of tourist control for a few years damaged parts of the site (like the stairs leading to Phnom Bakheng, for example). So, it became necessary to block off certain temple areas and build wooden walkways.

Back in the day, everything was open. There were just the temples—no installations except a few ropes to help climb to the top of Angkor Wat.

You could almost feel like a 19th-century explorer, except for the entrance fees in dollars, the picnicking Laotians, the kids on bikes, and the *moto dop* (no tuk-tuks—just a regular motorbike with as many people on it as there were customers...) waiting for the two tourists they’d picked up in "town."

I think you’ve experienced something similar in parts of Laos—places just starting to open up to tourism but still wild. 🙂

Your post made me add Laos back to my wishlist. Though without Luang Prabang, Vientiane, or spots overrun with techno… 😉

Day 2, Tonle Sap and the floating villages, local market

Hey, did you do it by boat for 2 people? Which agency/organizer?

Well, the tricky question because I had booked a "package" with a guide that included everything: tuk-tuk, driver, guide, entry to the villages, and boat ($65 pp). Except for meals and the 3-day Angkor pass ($62).

In the foreground, our boat—just for the four of us

Okay, I understand better now. We heard a lot during our stay about the major renovations done on the site during COVID, which had stripped the place of its soul... I get your feeling—I’ve felt it many times during repeat visits to countries or places (like the last time I went to Croatia, for example...). But for us, it was our first visit, so all that was left was the magic of the place... For Laos, it’s one of the (rare) regrets we’ll have from the trip: not having explored it more...

And since you've been well-behaved (not that there's been a crowd since the site reopened ;)), here's a little photo post from the area:



















We hesitated for a long time, but the backpack was full...

Okay, the tricky question because I had booked a "package" with a guide that included everything: tuk-tuk, driver, guide, entry to the villages, and boat (65$ pp). Except for meals and the 3-day Angkor pass (62$).

Ah, got it. I was wondering how to do it again if my trip to Cambodia happens. We had the same service through an NGO. It was a bit more expensive, but part of the profits went toward supporting the villages (especially the schools). We were alone, a couple in a boat with a guide and a woman who drove us.

But for us, it was our first visit, so we were just left with the magic of the place...

So, 3 days at Angkor—is that too much?

So Angkor over 3 days... isn't that a bit much?

No, it's not too much, especially since we alternated with Tonle Sap in between. I would’ve even liked a bit more time to "explore" more remote, "rustic" temples—to get a feel for what Agnès might’ve experienced in those quieter spots. Afterwards, the least bearable part was the afternoon heat; the pool back at the hotel was a welcome relief in the evenings...

Absolutely right, 3 days is even too short for those who aren’t just passing through. Not to mention that several sites are kilometers away from Angkor. For our part, we would’ve needed at least a 5-day itinerary.

Hi there, we’re heading to Cambodia in February 2025 and Angkor is definitely on our itinerary. Could you possibly send me the contact details for your French-speaking guide via PM or otherwise?

Thanks in advance.

Sunday 7th to Thursday 11th January: The Beach

I had a beach stay on my checklist with my travel buddies. Not an easy task in this country—Cambodia isn’t exactly known for its beaches, and I didn’t want to head back to Thailand to avoid too many flights mid-trip. After a night on the bus, which went via Phnom Penh, we arrived in Sihanoukville. This huge beach town didn’t seem all that interesting from what we saw, but it’s where we caught the speedboat to Koh Rong Sanloem, next to Koh Rong.





We picked this island because it’s said to be quieter and especially better for scuba diving, which Mariel loves. We also chose Saracen Bay Resort, the most beautiful hotel in the bay, for our 4 nights in paradise. And the choice—aside from the cost (nearly $100 a night)—turned out to be spot on!





Four days out of time, lulled by the sound of waves, punctuated by the passing tractors—the only way to get around the island.





That said, Koh Rong Sanloem isn’t much more interesting beyond what it offers: a stunning bay in the middle of crystal-clear waters. I’d even say the post-Covid era has left its mark—we saw a few abandoned resorts, and the overall state of the bay could spark some debate... Not to mention the other side of the coin when you wandered inland. But we were on the most beautiful part of the bay, with perfectly clean sand.

So, four days of pure relaxation, with a few hikes around the island, a day of diving (or snorkeling for the rest of us), massages, and other beach activities. Not many dining options, but the hotel’s chef more than delivered at pretty reasonable prices (that private beachside barbecue is still a highlight...).

But as they say, all good things must come to an end (though why, really?). Back to the mainland on Thursday afternoon, then a daytime bus back to Phnom Penh for our last few days of the trip.

Thursday 11th to Saturday 13th: Phnom Penh

So it’s around 9 PM when our shared van drops us off at its final stop. Two days left for us, a few more for our friends. Here again, the long anticipation of our trip (and the fact we were a group of four) let me pull out all the stops. A little off the city center, we’ll be staying at the Peninsula Phnom Penh. A stunning two-bedroom apartment on the 17th floor, rooftop and pool on the 25th, an extraordinary view of Phnom Penh—all for $75 per couple per night, including breakfast at Eric Kayser!! By far our best choice on the trip, and a great way to wrap it up!!!



View from my bed!

French-style breakfast

. Was it the hotel choice or the end of the trip, but we loved Phnom Penh. The *Routard* guide and what I’d picked up here and there had really undersold it, but the three days we spent there were great. No physical guide this time—just the Grab app (100% approved) for getting around and my paper guide for the main sights. But it was the nighttime vibe we preferred, since the days were just too hot...













. But Saturday arrives, and we have to leave our friends and these amazing countries. It’s with a heavy heart that we head to the airport in the late afternoon for another three flights—via BKK and Abu Dhabi—back to Geneva....

And the Verdict?

Well, yeah, what’s the final take on this month in Asia?

Overall, it’s excellent. Our last trip to this part of the world was in Vietnam, and the weather didn’t help. I was a bit put off by how commercialized (?) the people we met seemed—like we were just walking dollar signs. Here, especially in Laos, it’s all about kindness.

Personally, I loved having my friends along. Turns out they’re great company (and almost always on time!)

I fell in love with Laos—at least what I saw of it. My only regret is not staying longer and having to make tough choices. The vibe is great, the smiles feel genuine, and the food is amazing! Next time, though, I’d probably do less motorbiking (that round trip from Pakse to Don Det really takes a toll on your backside!)

Cambodia also left a great impression. I expected Angkor to be more overrun with tourists, but hiring a guide was a fantastic idea. Four days there is the bare minimum.

A big downside, though: Koh Rong Saloem. The island just isn’t (or isn’t anymore?) up to par.

Phnom Penh was a pleasant surprise—thanks to our hotel and the four days we spent on Koh Rong, we were ready for some city energy.

So, all in all, a winning return to Asia. I’m already itching to go back, and November’s got me missing the warmth of the places and the people... Thanks for following along! 😛

Was it the choice of hotel or the end of the trip, but we loved Phnom Penh. The Guide du Routard and what I’d picked up here and there had really sold it short.

Sometimes the Routard guides are way off! I loved it: great walks through the markets, the Royal Palace, a fun vibe early in the morning when people are doing their gym, and excellent food!

One big downside for Koh Rong Saloem—the island’s overall condition isn’t (no longer?) up to par.

Maybe Koh Rong would’ve been a better choice?

And thanks for following along :P

I had a blast :P

Thanks for this travel journal—it really makes me want to buy a flight ticket to Laos right away! !😉

For beach time, I’d gone to Sihanoukville and stayed at the historic Independence Hotel. The beach was great. The rest of the seaside resort, though...🤪