Villages around Hazaribagh in West Bengal (page 3 of 3)

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The path then winds around these buildings and leads to the majestic Krishnachandra temple. Its rich decorations, 25 spires, and three-arched entrances on each side make it one of the complex’s jewels. The main façade, particularly elaborate, reflects the refinement of the era.





Behind this temple stands a more discreet building, the Vijaya Vidyanath, whose façade is also adorned with beautiful decorations.



Outside the complex, other temples still exist, but I don’t linger there. After so many discoveries, I’d rather extend this moment in this peaceful garden where history still seems present.

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A day between Santipur and Guptipara After leaving the complex, I now need to find an auto to continue my explorations. Several drivers are waiting for customers, but none want to take me. So, I head toward the Nrisinghapur Ferry Ghat dock, and soon enough, an auto finally stops and agrees to drive me there.



The river crossing is quick. These small ferries, numerous and regular, make it easy to reach the other bank and are part of the locals' daily life. From there, I take another auto to Santipur, a town famous for its sari market. The driver drops me off at the entrance of the town, near a market, but it’s not the one I’m looking for. I search for a long time for that famous building until a woman finally agrees to help me. She points out the place but tells me the market isn’t happening today. I’m disappointed, but you have to accept the unexpected when traveling. These little setbacks are part of the adventure too. I then take a tuk-tuk toward Guptipara. Along the way, we pass a sari shop, and I ask the driver to stop. We spend a good half-hour there, picking out two very affordable saris. The driver then drops me off at another dock. A quick crossing takes me near Guptipara. The boats are frequent and regular. A new auto is waiting for me on the other side and takes me to the Brindavan Chandra Math complex.

I’m alone visiting this place, which I had already discovered ten years ago and really loved. Seeing it again today gives me a special feeling: that of rediscovering a familiar place with a new perspective.



The complex consists of four temples. The Ramchandra Temple has magnificent sculptures on its façade, showcasing the richness of Bengal’s terracotta art.





The Brindavan Chandra Temple dominates the complex. Its exterior façade is relatively simple, but its charm lies mainly in the interior of the temple.



It’s always a wonder to step inside. The inner veranda and sanctuary are entirely adorned with frescoes, from the walls to the ceiling, featuring intricate floral patterns and mythological scenes.



The Chaitanya Temple is the smallest in the complex.



The Krishna Chandra Temple is decorated mainly around its three-arched entrance.



I also take the time to admire the elegant and imposing entrance gate of the complex. On the way back to the village, I pass by a large mansion surrounded by a well-kept park: the Sen Bari. The entrance gate is slightly open. I slip inside, looking for someone who might allow me to visit, but it’s a private property, and unfortunately, visits aren’t possible.



Right across the street is another temple where many devotees are gathered. I approach it. Inside, pujas are being performed in a serene atmosphere. Outside, at the foot of a tree, small statues have been placed as silent offerings.



I then return to Kalna by train.

Back to Kalna The day isn’t over yet, though. I head back to the Rajbari complex to see the temples lit up at night. Night completely transforms the place. The lights highlight the reliefs on the facades, the delicate sculptures, and the temple silhouettes that seem to emerge differently in the darkness. After admiring them in daylight, seeing them illuminated like this offers a nearly magical experience.







I savor this moment for a long time. It’s the perfect way to end this leg of the journey—and, in a way, this long trip through Jharkhand and West Bengal. Over the past few weeks, I’ve traveled through regions with very different identities: the tribal villages of Jharkhand, their ancestral traditions, the art of Sohrai and Khovar, and then West Bengal with its terracotta temples, forgotten palaces, artisans, and markets. Even though I’d already visited this region ten years ago, this new trip allowed me to discover it differently—with more time, more encounters, and a fresh perspective. Revisiting familiar places like Kalna or Guptipara gives them a special flavor: that of reunions, but also of rediscovery. Without having imagined it when I arrived, the 108 Shiva temples take on a special resonance. Their symbolism of fulfillment, liberation, and enlightenment seems to gently accompany the end of my journey. Tomorrow, I’ll leave Kalna for Kolkata, the final stop before heading home. But tonight, in front of these illuminated temples, I feel like I’m closing a beautiful travel chapter.

Thanks Didier, this travel journal is coming to an end, but did you read the first part, "New Discoveries from Perpignan to Ranchi," which is also interesting?

Thanks Noëlle, I know you follow all my travel journals. Preparing for this one wasn’t easy—I didn’t find a single blog about Jharkhand. I just drew inspiration from the few travel agencies that offer it. Hope this journal inspires other travelers; I already know two who are heading to Hazaribagh... not a bad start 😉

Back in Kolkata and the end of the trip I’m back in Kolkata and settling into Ichamati Guesthouse again, just like when I arrived. More than just a hotel room, I almost feel like I’m coming home: I’m back in the same room, the same familiar spots. Tonight, I’ll go back to my favorite restaurant, Mocambo, a nice way to wrap up this trip that had its ups and downs.



Some stops in Jharkhand didn’t amaze me as much as I’d hoped, but West Bengal remains a real revelation for me. I still don’t understand why this region is so overlooked by travelers. It has incredible architectural wealth, diverse landscapes, traditions that are still very much alive, and above all, a population that’s incredibly kind, always ready to chat and welcome you. I could come back to this part of India again and again—it’s so captivating. There are still so many places to discover, so many villages to explore. Last day before departure After breakfast, I check out of my room and leave my bag at the hotel entrance. I’m free until 4 PM before heading to the airport. Inside the hotel, the coolness is pleasant, but as soon as I step into the lobby, I feel the heat immediately. Outside, it’s heavy, humid, almost stifling. A typical Kolkata heat that I’m less enthusiastic about this time. I’m not a big fan of museums, but since this one is just a few hundred meters from the hotel, I decide to go, hoping to enjoy a bit of air conditioning and the coolness of the rooms. No luck: there’s almost no one there this morning, and the temperature isn’t much better inside.



I wander from room to room but can’t really get into it.

My mind is elsewhere. I think, without even meaning to, I’m already reflecting on these six weeks that flew by in the blink of an eye. Images come back in waves: Bishnupur, a place where I felt something special and where I’d love to return; the warm welcome in Naya and the stunning Patachitra paintings; the many markets I passed through over the days; the houses decorated with Sohrai paintings in the villages of Jharkhand; Santiniketan and my bike rides, including that infamous flat tire I won’t soon forget; Murshidabad, with its palaces and fascinating history; and finally, Kalna, with its temples that provided such a beautiful conclusion to the trip. These six weeks were rich, varied, sometimes surprising, sometimes more challenging, but always filled with discovery. So many encounters, landscapes, architectural gems, and unexpected moments… I almost have a tear in my eye. I decide to leave the museum pretty quickly and head to New Market.



At least there, I find Kolkata’s lively atmosphere again. I wander through the aisles one last time, intentionally getting lost in the familiar hustle and bustle, and make my final purchases before heading back to the hotel.



I ask if it would be possible to take a shower before I leave, but all the rooms are already booked. I’ll have to make do with a quick freshen-up at the sink in the entrance restroom… That’ll be my last moment of comfort before the long journey home. The final taxi arrives. A hotel staff member walks me to the parking lot. The last goodbyes are exchanged… This time, it’s really over—the trip is finished. All I hope for now is a smooth journey back. The flight to Dubai is on time, but the one to Barcelona ends up being an hour late. The bus that was supposed to take me to Perpignan won’t wait for me, but luckily the next one isn’t full, and I’ll finally be able to get home without any issues. All that’s left is to warmly thank everyone who followed these two travel journals. Your messages and encouragement accompanied me throughout this adventure. Now, it’s time to start preparing for the next trip… and yes, India again! This country always has something new to offer, even in regions I’ve already visited. That’s undoubtedly what makes it so endearing: the feeling that you’ll never truly be done with it.

I hope this travel journal will inspire other travelers

Even if it doesn’t inspire other travelers, this journal will leave an incredible mark. VoyageForum is lucky to have you as a member ;)

Even if it doesn’t inspire other travelers, this travel journal will leave an incredible mark. VoyageForum is lucky to have you as a member 😉

Thanks, Kate. Maybe it’ll give you some ideas for another trip. Now we just have to convince Richard 😉

Hi Marie-Jo,

Unfortunately, I’m wrapping up this travel journal... if only you could have stayed longer!

A region unknown to me and a magnificent discovery of West Bengal... so many wonders in their simplicity. Here, no opulent architectural marble adorned with precious stones, but brick buildings with such beautiful, lively sculptures that touch the heart, move you, and are perfectly integrated into daily life.

This is an art that some might call "modest"—like the MIAM in Sète—but to me, this sophisticated art speaks across the centuries.

Thank you sincerely for the time-consuming share.

Alain

Thanks Alain! No worries, there’ll be more travel journals—several trips are already planned in my head, and I’ve gotta make them happen before 😉 They’ll be different but just as interesting, well, I hope so.😎

Yes, we read the first travel journal. Next year we’re visiting Sikkim, Assam, and Meghalaya, and your journal on the last two states has been a huge help. Happy planning for your next trip! Didier

GOOD EVENING MARIE JO

your travel journal has inspired others, and I’ve added West Bengal to my list of places to experience someday. Once again, a huge thank you for sharing such rare and vivid moments…

Hello, A huge thank you for this travel journal—it’s so rich in both architecture and humanity. It’s really rare to find both combined like this. It reminds me of my youth and my two cumulative years of travel in North India. Kolkata was one of my crossroads. Your words make me want to go back and explore Jharkhand and its walls decorated by the locals... Thanks again. Louis PS – If accommodation in Toulouse would be helpful on your way, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Thanks for this travel journal that introduced me to some unknown places.

Thank you all for your messages. And to wrap up: I’d like to give a big shout-out to the heatwave—without those 40°C spikes, this travel journal would never have happened😎 I’ll share the contact details for the Guide in Hazaribagh. He’s the only guide in this region, and you can easily find him on social media. Adam Imam: phone +91 98211 77806.

Adichats, Adiou!!!!!