Day 17 – Final day in Peru. Visit to Lima’s historic center
Final day in Peru. Already! As often in Lima, the sky is overcast. After the stunning landscapes and sunshine of the past few days, the contrast is striking. But no matter—we still have one day left to explore the capital before catching our flight.
After a good breakfast, we take a taxi to the city center. Despite heavy traffic, we arrive early for our meet-up with our French-speaking guide, Zarela, in front of the grand Hotel Bolívar on Plaza San Martín. At the center of the square stands the equestrian statue of José de San Martín, the man who proclaimed Peru’s independence in 1821.
We start with a quick visit to the hotel and its impressive dome.
The Grand Hotel Bolívar is a historic establishment in Lima and has hosted many celebrities. Nothing transcendent, though. We don’t linger.
We take the legendary pedestrian street Jirón de la Unión toward the Plaza Mayor, or Plaza de Armas. It’s still early, and the street is almost deserted; the shops aren’t open yet. A very different vibe from what we’ll see on the way back.
Along the way, we visit the beautiful Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Merced, with its remarkable façade and rich altars.
When we arrive at the Plaza Mayor, we get a nasty surprise: lots of barriers and restricted access due to protests. I’d warned you they’re common in this country! Our guide does her best to negotiate access, and her charm often works...
Unfortunately, the center of the square is off-limits. We have to settle for admiring it from the edges. It’s surrounded by monuments, each more beautiful than the last: the cathedral, the Government Palace, the Archbishop’s Palace, the city hall, the San Francisco Monastery, and several elegant colonial mansions with intricately carved wooden balconies.
Under a blue sky or lit up at night, it must be incredible. No wonder this remarkable architectural ensemble is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
We continue our visit with the stunning San Francisco Convent, which blends Spanish and Moorish influences beautifully. We discover magnificent cloisters decorated with ceramic tiles, carved ceilings, gardens surrounded by patios, a sumptuous old library, and many religious artworks.
In the basement are the catacombs, which are said to hold the remains of thousands of people. There’s also the tomb of Saint Rose of Lima, an emblematic figure of the city. This convent is a marvel!
Next, we pass by the Archbishop’s Palace, whose remarkable façade is adorned with stunning carved wooden balconies. We walk along the cathedral, which unfortunately isn’t accessible today, then head toward the Casa de la Literatura Peruana.
Housed in the former Desamparados railway station, this place is now dedicated to Peruvian literature. The building’s conversion is remarkable, and it offers one last glimpse into another side of Peru—its writers and culture. Our guide suggests a pisco tasting. After all, it’s our last day—it’d be a shame to refuse!
We retrace our steps along Jirón de la Unión, which has completely transformed. The street is now bustling, shops are open, and the energy is back.
In the end, despite the gray sky, the protests, and some restricted access, we really enjoyed discovering the historic center. A great way to wrap up our Peruvian adventure, even if we would’ve happily stayed a few more days.
We take a taxi back to Miraflores. We get dropped off at the restaurant Barra Maretazo, not far from our hotel. Jackpot! We enjoy one of the best meals of our trip. The value for money is unbeatable. Our only regret: not discovering this place sooner!
We realize, unfortunately, that our trip is coming to an end. There’s no way to delay it this time. It’s time to pack our bags.
Our return flight goes smoothly.
Paris welcomes us in the middle of the afternoon, at the peak of a heatwave. After several weeks of Andean landscapes, wide-open spaces, and moderate—even chilly—temperatures, the shock is brutal!
Peru is already behind us... but what an amazing trip! I fulfilled my childhood dream, and I’m not disappointed—far from it!
