Madeira: Between Disappointment and Enchantment (page 3 of 5)

Thanks so much for your reply. That could actually be a great compromise 🙂.

We’ll get back to you around July 20th 😉. Have a great day

Hello! What memories! That hike was so pretty, we did it too starting from the Pico Das Pedras parking lot! But on the last bend before the waterfall, as I was putting away my camera, I got caught on one of the posts supporting the steel cables protecting from the drop, and—*crash*—the post came loose, and I found myself between the levada and the void. I don’t know how I managed to scramble back onto my hands and knees on the edge of the levada. In any case, I was shaking so much that I went to the end, we took our time for a picnic, and then we turned back—no way was I continuing the second part! So I’m thrilled to see your photos because that levada was absolutely stunning, but you *have* to be careful!!!😕

It’s true that the coastal section below Samana is absolutely gorgeous, especially since you did it like we did (after Caldeira Verde) in the late afternoon with the sunlight! It’s such a pleasure to read your posts, and we’re loving your beautiful photos! Thanks for sharing, and can’t wait for the next part!🙂

I get the feeling that, in the end, the weather was sunnier at the very beginning of May

That’s quite possible. Every time we were in the sun, the clouds weren’t far behind, and when we were in the mist, we’d find nice weather just a few kilometers away !

We didn’t find it either!

That makes me feel better . At the time, I wasn’t too proud of my preparation. Usually, I note everything very precisely, and this time... 😕 Oh well, we found it in the end, and so did you 🙂! !

Good evening,

Well, here’s a memory that won’t fade anytime soon! What a scare 🏴‍☠️! It’s true the trails are well-maintained, but the terrain remains treacherous with all sorts of unpredictable challenges... A simple misstep, harmless elsewhere, can take a very unpleasant turn here.

I still shudder remembering the English family I crossed paths with (very nice, by the way) on a particularly exposed section of the trail. Their two boys (I’d say 6 and 8 years old) were bounding ahead with all the carefree confidence of childhood, while the parents followed behind with the youngest strapped to their back in a baby carrier. For a moment, I imagined the slip—a single foot losing grip, the weight shifting, the child barely secured... It’s hard to say you *shouldn’t* do it in that case... if you overthink, you’d never do anything, and plenty of people get hurt more or less seriously just going about their daily lives! One thing’s certain: vigilance and attention are key—I totally agree! It’d be such a shame to ruin such a beautiful hike with a bad ending. I’ll continue my story in a very different tone right away... See you soon

Day 5: FUNCHAL. Okay, let’s set the record straight—I’m not much of a city person, and museums aren’t my thing at all. That said, I couldn’t skip Funchal while exploring Madeira. So, I put together a little itinerary that let us see what I thought (after some research) were the highlights of the city. No indoor visits—it was a conscious choice, especially since the weather was just too nice!

For those interested, here’s our planned route. The shuttle dropped us off at L (the cable car departure point), and we actually did L→J→K→L in a short morning before heading to Monte by cable car, then to the botanical garden via the second cable car (off the map). Finally, we walked back down to I and retraced our steps to A in the late afternoon before returning to the hotel area.



We left the hotel area by bus. We’d given up on taking the car—the traffic can be tricky, and parking is a hassle. Our hotel offered free shuttles, but the city buses also run through the Lido area, so no worries there. We started at Jardim do Almirante Reis, heading toward the market, which is apparently best visited in the morning. I was a bit skeptical about this tourist hotspot, but I was wrong. It lived up to its reputation—a festival of colors, scents, and sounds. It buzzes like a net just pulled from the water. People jostle, marveling at the vibrant, orderly stalls. I’d heard the vendors could be pushy, but I didn’t encounter any. They were certainly present, with endless chatter, but always with a smile. A few words of Portuguese—thank you, sorry, maybe later—and I always got a kind word or gesture in return. And yet, we didn’t buy anything.





After the market, we headed to the old town. Let’s cut to the chase—this was my favorite part of Madeira. Rua Santa Maria has a bit of a hipster vibe but is incomparable with its painted doors. The little squares, all the way to Fort St. James, are charming. It’s a pleasure to stroll through the cobbled alleys, discovering a church or the sea peeking through a sudden gap framed by a flowering bush.







Next, we took the cable car to Monte. Hmm. The view is pretty, the church too, and the surrounding streets are just as nice. The air is much fresher than by the sea. The *carreiros* (wicker basket sledges) are there, idle for now. I wasn’t convinced—I just couldn’t get into the vibe. Too many tourists, like everywhere else, but here, it felt like there wasn’t much behind it—just tourists and people whose only purpose seemed to be waiting for tourists. We skipped the Monte gardens; you’ve got to make choices. So, we took the second cable car (yes, I know, today we were in full lazy mode) to the botanical garden.







The botanical garden is beautiful, spacious, and full of plants. There’s even a cute little self-service café with very reasonable prices. That said, it didn’t blow me away—it’s a classic botanical garden, no frills, just showcasing the island’s climate and the exotic plants imported over the years. I did appreciate the cactus area, though—impressive in size and variety—and the palm trees. But I have to rant about the birds, kept at the very bottom of the garden, many of them in small, bare, cramped cages. I’m not usually an animal rights activist, but this was borderline unacceptable. It’s also a shame there weren’t more signs—you wander around without always knowing where you are or what’s around you.







We left the garden through the lower gate (we’d entered at the top, so we did the visit descending instead of climbing) and were immediately accosted by a VERY unpleasant taxi driver (I suspect he was hurling insults, but since I didn’t understand... I’ll give him the benefit of the doubt). He didn’t like that we preferred to walk down! The ride was offered for 10 €, but we only took 20 minutes to reach the town hall square! Another steep descent—this one was pretty intense. No sidewalks or pedestrian zones, and it’s a bit dangerous when you see how fast cars barrel down the slope. The incline is impressive—you need good knees to walk down (or good brakes, depending on your mode of transport) and the stamina of an athlete to climb it in one go. The people of Madeira seem to have adopted the principle that the shortest path from point A to point B is... a straight line, no matter the elevation. That makes for some spicy routes, especially by car—on the way up, you instinctively lean forward so the front wheels don’t lift off (no joke). But at least you avoid hairpin turns.

Back to the newer part of the city, with the town hall and its square paved in basalt and marble, the St. Lawrence Palace, the theater, the municipal gardens, and the cathedral. Nice, but quick (distances aren’t huge), and, in my opinion, less typical than the old town. St. Catherine’s Park was disappointing, but it’s under construction. Then we headed back to the hotel area in about half an hour—doable, but not exactly charming. Better to take a bus; it’s faster, less tiring, and you don’t miss much.







We then continued to the famous seaside promenade, which I didn’t find all that special unless you’re into endless rows of restaurants, cafés, and shops.



So that’s Funchal. A superficial look, sure, but it was enough for us. The city’s small—you can easily explore it in a day. We didn’t see many neighborhoods, like the heights of São Pedro, but we preferred to prioritize nature and hikes.

To be continued... (hang in there, only 2 days left! 😛)

Thanks for this tour of Funchal (in the sunshine 🙂 ...which makes everything look even prettier!).

Muriel

Really great to live through your trip... especially since we’ve been there too. We were there in April, just before the Flower Festival... And I see we all feel pretty much the same way... A beautiful island with such contrasts, both in landscapes and weather... *Your* "Ponta de São Lourenço" and *ours* under the sun are quite different, but the photos are just as stunning... The disembarking tourists had us laughing... We stayed on the sunny coast in Calheta (Calhau Grande), which I can only recommend. Thanks! !

Hi Muriel, sure, in the sunshine, even the shabbiest place can look charming—or maybe it’s just our brains a little high 😛. Personally, a bit of light and I feel great, but under the gloom, the mood often takes a nosedive 😕.

Joking aside, I went back to your blog (Funchal seemed pretty gloomy for you ), and I really think it’s great. Lovely photos and such a simple, nice navigation (unlike others).

Have a great day! Laure

Hi Agnès, and thanks for your comment 🙂.

I see we all feel pretty much the same way

That’s quite possible, and it would make sense after all. Before my trip, though, I’d only read glowing reviews—everything’s beautiful, the island is stunning, no restrictions. So when I came back "between disappointment and enchantment" 😉, I wondered if I was too demanding or if, by any chance, other travelers hadn’t said it all or at least left out a few downsides...

We were there in April, just before the Flower Festival

Well, I’m starting to wonder if April might be better than May... In fact, in mid-April, the spring blooms are at their peak, whereas in May, some flowers are already fading while the summer ones aren’t out yet. Something to think about...

We stayed on the sunny coast in Calheta (Calhau Grande), which I can only recommend

Yes, I really think Funchal isn’t the best place to stay, at least not for an extended period.

Have a great day! Laure

6th and penultimate day (already!) – a day that was supposed to be dedicated to the south coast. However, I’d like to try to save some time and attempt the **25 Fontes hike** in the afternoon, hoping there’ll be fewer people on this trail, which turns out to be the island’s most popular.

We set off early toward the west. First stop: **PONTA DO SOL**, a tiny village still asleep (it’s early and it’s Sunday), exuding the subtle charm of another era. Under its festive garlands, with its colorful seaside facades and its all-white church, it looks like a sleeping princess in a dragon’s lair. Indeed, on either side of the modest cove bordering the ocean, dark rock walls rise, both protective and menacing, and on their gentler slopes, banana trees climb the hillside. A short stroll through the alleys, a brief walk on the jetty where a few fishermen doze amid the crashing waves, and we’re back on the road. I think I would’ve liked to spend a night in one of those discreet hotels by the sea, letting the evening drift by to the murmur of the waves, my gaze carried by the white foam of the rolling crests. In Ponta do Sol, time doesn’t quite flow like it does elsewhere.





Our second stop is **JARDIM DO MAR**, a pedestrian village that’s undergone a very studied renovation. We got lost in its alleys, which bravely tackle the steep terrain, between stone walls interwoven with lush vegetation, under the trellis of a low vine, the imposing silhouette of still-green banana bunches. Here, we meet a man with a sun-tanned face, bent over a narrow strip of land overlooking the void; there, a lazy cat or a goat trapped in a small patch of wild grass. Here and there, between the brand-new houses and the sophisticated B&Bs, stand the crumbling walls of a shack overrun by brambles, hinting at another era, another world—harsher, no doubt, than the one where tourists drag their shoes and suitcases over the uneven cobblestones. Down below, a charming promenade lines the sea, but the towering dark cliffs block any view. Here, all you see is water stretching endlessly, dark pebbles, and large concrete blocks, like a slightly disconcerting futuristic beach.





Back on the road with the **ER223**, rated three stars in the *Évasion* guide, which describes it with plenty of superlatives. I’d ended up dreading it—no doubt we and our car were going to plunge into the ocean. It’s a pretty mountain road with a few tight turns and nice viewpoints, nothing alarming or even worrying when you take it at the slow pace of a photo hunter. The most real threat is probably the chunks of rock breaking off from the overhanging mountain. So, definitely not the right place for a picnic!



As we keep driving west, we approach **PONTA DA PARGO** and run into clouds, mist, and finally, rain. The strong wind gives us a few glimpses of sunshine, just enough for a photo. The countryside is very green (you quickly understand why), a little desolate, inhospitable, dotted with “for sale” signs and abandoned houses. Lands you can imagine being merciless to their inhabitants, battered by the elements, and at the very end, the lighthouse—a lighthouse like so many others, with the eternal battle between rock and water raging below.



Fed up with the too-black basalt, the too-strong wind, the too-cold rain. We head full north through the forest, then east via the plateau road and **Paul da Serra**. Fed up with driving, we want to hike. All I can think about is the **25 Fontes** and the **Risco waterfall**. The road climbs, still in the fog, but the blue sky seems so close. We keep going. When we arrive at the **Rabaçal** parking lot, it’s 9°C, it’s raining, and it’s windy—but maybe down below, sheltered by the laurel forest... we believe, we go. Our shoes are waterproof—time to test how waterproof our jackets are! No way we’re waiting for the shuttle in this weather. Besides, is there even a shuttle? It’s Sunday, and the trailhead sign has nothing indicated. Of course, we’re the only ones starting the hike, even though several cars are parked in the lot. A 30-minute steep descent in the pouring rain. We’ll meet the owners of those cars on their way back up (so there’s no shuttle), drenched and looking dazed. Oh well, we keep going. We’ll do the whole hike in the same conditions and won’t be bothered by crowds at all!





I really loved the **Risco waterfall**, which, in these particular conditions, took on a supernatural air. I would’ve liked to continue along the path that you can glimpse in the distance, but it’s closed off by a gate. I also really liked arriving at the **25 Fontes**, but the path leading there isn’t very exciting. Sure, we didn’t have much of a view, but I found it a bit monotonous, and after an easy first section, you walk alongside the *levada* on a narrow, uneven stone path, often 40 to 60 cm off the ground. No risk of vertigo or a fatal fall, obviously, but a real danger of injury if you slip. Plus, you’re constantly forced to watch your step, which gets tiring after a while. So, the **25 Fontes & Risco hike** will be in last place in our week’s ranking, even ignoring the bad weather. Back to the parking lot via the road—a 40-minute climb (we could’ve done without that)—and guess what? The empty shuttle passes us, or rather, taunts us twice before disappearing. It seems it doesn’t stop outside the designated points, or maybe we were too wet for its taste. Grrr!





Back to **Funchal** via a small road heading full south toward the coast. The **ER110** is still closed after **Bica da Cana**. Apocalyptic scenes—the forest has been ravaged by fire, some trees have collapsed or slid, their ghostly silhouettes threatening the road. And under the downpour, the earth, held by nothing, flows like water, carrying away gravel and branches. We weave slowly through a land of desolation. Would you believe that when we arrived in Funchal, the sun was shining and it was over 20°C? And yet, it didn’t take us more than an hour to get back. Tonight, we’ll eat on the terrace. That’s Madeira for you—a meteorological paradox.



See you soon (for those who aren’t tired of this yet 😇[;])) for the last day and the wrap-up...

Hi there, Well, it's a lovely travel journal about Funchal. Your photos of the market are stunning and bring back great memories! Of course, it's a shame you couldn't see the Monte Garden, as we really enjoyed it. On the other hand, it gave you the chance to take the cable car ride, which we found really interesting! We loved Funchal too, but we stayed in the center for 4 days, so we had time to explore its little streets!

For our part, we did the 25 Fontes hike, also in the rain, and were really glad to take the shuttle back up🙂 because, despite the rain, there were so many people! (and even in sandals!) I love your beautiful photos!

As for the south coast, what's disorienting are those huge concrete blocks all along the coastline. It's not just here that the sea is rising!!!

Thanks again for sharing your feelings!

Good evening,

For our part, we did the 25 fountains, even in the rain, and were really happy to go back up with the shuttle🙂 because on top of that, despite the rain, there were a lot of people!

I admit I would’ve been really happy to take the shuttle back up too, but at least we had the place to ourselves! I should mention that by the time we started the walk, the afternoon was already well underway. When we got back to the parking lot, our car was the only one there.

those huge concrete blocks all along the coastline

It’s true that their aesthetics are debatable 😕😉. We also noticed the local entrepreneurs’ strong preference for concrete—or maybe it’s a cost issue, but it’s definitely not for aesthetic reasons.

Alright, I’ll finish my story tonight. I think I’ve been chatty enough as it is 😊 !

Day 7: The last day—our flight takes off in the late afternoon. We take the opportunity to visit a few sites we’d missed.

First, **CAMARA DE LOBOS**. We found everything the guidebooks mention: fishermen playing cards on the sidewalk, the old boat beached on the shore with its drying fish, and the newer, colorful ones bobbing gently in the cove. The lookout where Churchill’s shadow lingers with his paintbrushes, the main square and its church, the shops with their touristy trinkets. Everything the guidebooks mention—yet nothing more. Has the "chamber of wolves" lost its soul by getting too close to Funchal and its bright lights?





Next, **CABO GIRAO**. We couldn’t leave without stopping by, and yes, it’s worth the detour. For the coastline stretching endlessly toward Funchal, sprawling like a giant octopus in the distance. For the gardens lining the shore, forming strange, elegant curves from above—like Nazca lines, minus the mystery. The glass floor is mostly folklore; you see just as well by leaning over the railing!





Finally, a detour to **RIBEIRO FRIO**, where we did the Balcões hike. It’s cloudy, but at least it’s not raining. So we go anyway—and see... NOTHING. Still, the walk was nice, and we got some fresh air before hopping on our flight, back to square one and ready for new adventures.



I told you we wouldn’t see anything!

RECAP: Madeira—why "between disappointment and enchantment"?

I **LOVED** the hikes, the variety of landscapes, the trail organization. This is definitely an island to explore on foot. By car, you end up back at the same spot way too quickly.

Our top hikes:

#1 Pico Arieiro to Achada do Teixeira via Pico Ruivo #2 Caldeirão Verde & Inferno from Casa da Queimadas #3 Bica da Cana & Pináculo #4 Ponta de São Lourenço #5 25 Fontes and Risco Waterfall

I liked the coastal areas less—they felt a bit too rugged for my taste, sometimes stark, and the unpredictable weather ruled everything. The villages often left me indifferent. You could sense a not-so-distant agricultural life, a bit sleepy, a bit outdated.

I didn’t like Funchal’s outskirts, which sprawl like conquerors, devouring every usable space. Across the island, I regretted the extreme touristification at the expense of natural spaces—the cliffs hastily cemented to prevent rockfalls, the excessive bridges and tunnels, the domestication of rivers with concrete walls that channel water faster than the torrents themselves. Madeira is rushing toward its quest for visitors, leaving pieces of its soul behind.

And—risking outrage—I don’t agree with the (very marketable) nickname "Island of Flowers." Yes, there are many species, many flowers, and I’m not denying that. But no more than elsewhere. It wasn’t what struck me. I find its original name far better chosen: *Madeira*, Portuguese for "wooded island." You could call it the Green Island, because that’s what dominates—green, dozens, hundreds of shades of green. Lush green, green that fills the abysses, cascades down mountainsides, clings to rock, follows rivers and *levadas*, climbs trails.

To hikers, I’d say: Yes, go, rush to Madeira—it’s an exceptional island. To those who don’t want to or can’t hike, to the contemplative types, I’d recommend Mediterranean islands instead. Personally, I find them prettier and easier to explore.

This is just my opinion, of course—one among many, tossed onto the forum (not into the water) for everyone to take what they will.

Thank you to all of you who followed along, took the time to comment, or shared your own memories. Every one of your messages was an encouragement and a real pleasure. And with vacations and summer just around the corner: Happy future travels to all!

To end on a high note, Ponta de São Lourenço from the sky...

Adeus! Until next time!

Thanks Laure for this travel journal.

I won’t add anything to your summary... because I 100% agree with you (except for the order of the hikes, but we didn’t do exactly the same ones—I rank São Lourenço as #1... but we had sunshine and fewer people than at Caldeirão Verde...).

Muriel

Hi there, I really enjoyed reliving this trip to Madeira through your story and photos! I also came back with the feeling that something was off! But with hindsight (it’s been a year already) and thanks to your travel journal, I’ve seen it in a different light. Thank you! I think this island is undergoing a major transformation—welcoming huge cruise ships full of tourists and building a new concrete quay!!! Meanwhile, many levadas are left more or less abandoned! It’s hard not to think that instead of pouring concrete, they should restore these beautiful levadas! Still, I fear (and it’s understandable) that younger generations won’t be able to live like their elders—cultivating terraces and maintaining the levadas, which are so difficult to access. That way of life may fade away or at least diminish. On the other hand, we found an island full of flowers but with many burned forests! So, you did the right thing by creating this wonderful travel journal and encouraging readers to visit as soon as possible! Happy planning for your future trips!

Hi Muriel,

Thanks for joining me all the way through this "after-the-fact" trip.

I see that our feelings about this beautiful island of Madeira align, even if my hiking ranking differs from yours 😉. The sun, the cold, the fatigue... there are so many factors that come into play, and we’re all different in reality as well as in our expectations—and I think that’s our greatest strength! That’s why these shared experiences we pick up here and there are so valuable. And if travel broadens the mind, I think travel journals contribute a lot to that too. But isn’t a journal or a project already (always) a journey in itself... 🙂😇

Wishing you great travel plans, and see you soon, maybe, on another journal or blog 😉 Laure

Thanks, Marimichelle,

I really appreciated your comments and personal anecdotes. An exchange—when it involves open-minded people—is so much richer than a long monologue.

Personally, I came back feeling like I’d discovered some amazing places (hence the enchantment), but also with the sense that Madeira wasn’t the one I’d been "sold" (hence the disappointment). You see, my title wasn’t just a stylistic choice 😛!

Yes, the island is transforming, shaped by harsh natural constraints, still a bit stuck in the past (an island, I find, evolves much more slowly than a mainland region), but resolutely looking toward the future. It can no longer rely solely on agriculture, yet it must survive! Boosted by certain EU subsidies, it’s made choices that many are now questioning... Far be it from me to say whether they’re good or bad. But I couldn’t help imagining Corsica (which is over 10 times larger) crisscrossed with viaducts, riddled with tunnels, and its most intimate valleys covered in concrete—just like they’ve done in Madeira—and I shuddered at the thought 😕.

Like you, I think we should work *with* what nature offers, not *against* it, but it’s sometimes difficult, often more expensive, and less convenient. Time will tell what the future holds for Madeira...

And I’ll wrap up (because, well, everything must end 😇) by wishing you many wonderful travels in your own future... Laure

Hi there! 🙂

Okay, I was starting to think, since I hadn’t seen any new messages pop up in the threads I follow about your travel journal, that something was up 😮. But no, turns out the journal is actually finished 🤪!

I’d left off at the amazing hike on the second day—the one where you conquered 😛 (your fears, your partner’s reluctance, and the Germans’ too), the mix of disappointments and enchantments on the third day, the forest post at Fanal, and your magical description of the fog rolling in (I could totally picture myself getting swallowed up too).

Then I took a little break from VF to wrap up my own travel journal (phew, that one really made me sweat), and I missed the ending 😊.

So, on this quiet Sunday morning, I’m savoring every bit of it—I’m savoring it…

I see that the fourth day was a real success, that you didn’t hesitate to brave the "hell" of it, and that it was totally worth it!

Like you, I’m more (and increasingly so) into nature than cities, but I also think it’s a shame not to spend a little time in a nice town when you’re staying there. I had a good laugh imagining you leaning forward to compensate for the slope 😏.

On the sixth day, I really loved Ponta do Sol, and once again, I fell under the spell of your writing (not just there, but I *loved* how you described the two villages).

I also think a great hike isn’t just about the destination—it’s about the journey there—and I totally get your disappointment about the 25 fontes.

In conclusion, a huge thank you 🙂 for this travel journal, brought to life by your stunning photos and your writing, which sweeps me away every time.

Before you mentioned it, Madeira wasn’t even on my radar, but now… who knows?

Laure

Hi Laure,

I finally finished reading your travel journal... A huge thank you: it’s full of dreams and beautiful photos! 😎

Thanks to your report, I can confirm that Madeira will definitely be on the agenda. The question is *when*—my work constraints have just shifted for the next 2-3 years... Originally planned for 2016... 😎

Looking forward to reading more from you. My next journal should be ready around August (Scotland in July).

See you soon, and thanks again! JF

Hello,

Madeira will definitely be on the agenda; the question is when, since work constraints have just shifted for the next 2–3 years...

Yep, we’ve all been there—when and how way more often than where... 😉😇

My next travel journal should be up around August (Scotland in July)

I’ll keep an eye out for it, and in the meantime, have a great vacation with the whole family! For us, it’ll be a few days in London at the end of July.

See you soon, and thanks! Laure