In the Land of the Tswana (Botswana) (page 3 of 10)

25/09/2019: Nxai - Maun Before leaving Nxai Pan National Park, we head to the watering hole where elephants had gathered the day before, but no animals are there. It takes us an hour to reach the paved road via the same track as yesterday—monotonous and not exactly easy. Fortunately, the road toward Maun is more relaxing, even if there are a few potholes. You mainly need to watch out for zebras, giraffes, and warthogs roaming outside any reserves.





When we arrive in Maun, we’re surprised to see cows, donkeys, and goats roaming freely in the streets—after all, it’s a big city by the country’s standards. It also seems very lively and far from the description Delia and Mark OWENS gave in their book *The Cry of the Kalahari*. Still, there’s nothing much to do here except that it’s the gateway to the Okavango Delta!!! ;) And that’s exactly why we rush to the small airport to book a (partial) scenic flight over the delta for today or tomorrow. The first company we’d spotted, Mack Air, has no availability for three days. But luckily, Major Blue Air offers us a flight for the same day at 4:00 PM. Perfect! That gives us time to take a little break at Maun Rest Camp, a campsite a few kilometers north of the city. The site is quiet and wooded, right by a completely dried-up river. Back at the airport, we all board the same plane. Everyone has a window seat—it’s perfect! And you can even sit in the co-pilot’s seat… just don’t touch the controls! There’s a strong wind, and the pilot warns us it’s going to be bumpy!





Even though it’s the dry season, the colors are stunning—yellows, greens, blues. Still, we have to admit we were expecting to see more wet areas. It’s yet another sign that a severe drought is currently affecting Southern Africa. At another time of year, the delta would surely have looked completely different.











We’re thrilled to spot elephants, giraffes, zebras, hippos, as well as huge herds of buffalo and wildebeest. As expected, the turbulence is significant, and several people in the plane get airsick, but we enjoy every moment.











For us, the Okavango Delta is a somewhat mythical place we’ve dreamed about for a long time—we’re over the moon!











Unfortunately, the pilot turns back toward Maun. The crosswind landing is pretty impressive, but everything goes smoothly.



Before heading back to the campsite, we stop by the "liquor shop" since our supplies are running low.

09/26/2019: Maun Like in the Tour de France, today was kind of a rest day for us. So, we didn’t get up until 8:00 AM—a first on this trip. There was a lot of wind all night, and it’s still going. Unlike the photos you see on the Maun Rest Camp website or Google Street View, the Thamalakane River, where we’re camping, is completely dry. A bit disappointing! It’s overrun with cows… we would’ve preferred hippos!



We still head out for a walk in the riverbed until we reach a small waterhole where a few fishermen are casting their lines. To our surprise, the place is crawling with crocodiles—about fifteen of all sizes. There are also some fishing birds and several monitor lizards. We spend a good while watching the crocs since the terrain lets us observe them up close without any risk.





























We spend most of the day resting and reading. In the afternoon, we go shopping since there won’t be any chance to stock up for the next five or six days, and we fill up on gas. We stop by the craft market by the roadside. There are some cool things, and everyone tries to convince us they made everything they’re selling themselves.

Lovely photos of the crocodiles. You’d think we were right next to them ;)

We were really close, actually, but overlooking the waterhole, so in a risk-free area (specifically from the Old Bridge Backpackers).

27/09/2019 (Part 1): Maun - Moremi

We leave Maun heading for Moremi. We pass lots of children on their way to school, and whether they're little or big, it seems like they're all in school. That's great!



About thirty kilometers north, the paved road turns into a dirt track, but it's still pretty smooth. Twenty kilometers further on, we reach a veterinary gate, but there's no check in this direction—just a little wave and we carry on. Before arriving in Moremi, we already spot elephants and giraffes, some of which cross without warning. 🙂









Since we didn’t manage to get a spot in the camps inside the reserve (even though we booked eight months in advance), we’re a bit nervous when we enter: will we be allowed to visit? But since we’ve booked several nights at Mbudi Campsite, just ten kilometers from Khwai, there’s no issue. Phew!



We head toward Black Pool and Xini Lagoon. The landscape is more wooded than in the reserves we’ve visited so far, but not much greener. Even though we’re right next to the Okavango Delta, it’s still pretty dry. The animals are plentiful, though: giraffes, warthogs, zebras, impalas, and more, but especially *lots* of elephants. Sometimes solitary, but mostly in groups, we can clearly see all the generations—adults, teens, and tiny baby elephants.









This zebra’s really beat up 😮

hi, wow, I devoured this and can't wait for the rest! I think I've found our next trip. after Kenya, northern Tanzania, and southern Tanzania, this is the trip I'm excited about! thanks for these amazing photos🙂 thanks

Thanks, Nathalie. I really need to speed up posting my travel journal online because right now, I feel like it’s dragging a bit.

Anyway, I highly encourage you to travel to Botswana. One important note: you have to plan *way* in advance (a year, maybe even more?) because accommodation options are limited, especially in Moremi, Savuti, and Chobe. We booked 8 months ahead and still couldn’t get spots in the camps in those reserves. So we had to improvise, but we still saw a lot. That said, I do have a little regret about not being able to sleep inside Moremi (even though we were just on the edge) because in the end, it turned out to be my favorite reserve.

09/27/2019 (Part 2): Moremi

The reserve is large, and we realize we won’t be able to head much farther west. So we turn back to get closer to North Gate.



Not nice to stick out your tongue 😛

At Hippo Pool, the hippos are out in full force. A large group of elephants comes to drink.









By chance, we then enter the marshy area in the northeast of the park, not far from North Gate, more or less along the Khwai River. The wildlife there is incredibly rich, with lots of birds, waterbucks, baboons, and a whole bunch of other species.













We would’ve loved to linger there, but the sun is starting to set, and we need to head back to our camp outside the reserve.

We stop for a few moments to take photos of the Khwai River bridge (the other one! 😉), while our friends continue on. We’re no more than five minutes behind them.



Khwai Village

A few kilometers past Khwai Village, several vehicles are stopped, including our friends’. We communicate with them via walkie-talkie: three African wild dogs were there, but they’ve just disappeared. What a letdown for us—we’ve never seen them before! We arrive at Mbudi Campsite as night falls. The welcome is friendly, and the facilities are decent, with running water and hot showers. But most of all, the view from the four sites along the Mbudi River is absolutely stunning. We don’t know it yet, but this will probably be the most beautiful spot of the whole trip.



We can hear hippos nearby, and the many elephant droppings show that pachyderms are in the area.

09/28/2019 (Part 1): Moremi

During the night, we heard hippos grazing near the tent, and also the roar of a lion—fortunately farther away. A bit frustrated that we hadn’t been able to venture deep into the Moremi Reserve the day before, we decided to wake up early enough this morning to be at the ‘gate’ right when it opened at 6:00 AM. Our friends weren’t as brave and preferred to delay their departure a bit. It was still pitch black and only 6°C (43°F) when we got up. Though we’re used to it by now, it always takes a little time to pack up the tent and get ready. After about twenty minutes on the track, we arrived at the North Gate. It was 6:02 AM, and no ranger was on duty. Oh well, no need to sign the register, and since we already had our permit for today, we didn’t consider ourselves in the wrong!

Even though our goal for the day was to reach Third Bridge (and return), we started by heading to the marshy area on the right just after entering the park. The light was gorgeous, and we spotted the first animals of the day: zebras, warthogs, and waterbucks.



Suddenly, we saw two African wild dogs appear right in front of us. Actually, they were coming from everywhere, and eventually, a pack of about twenty-five individuals approached. As if by magic, they settled near the track, just ten meters away from us. We were over the moon! We’d narrowly missed three wild dogs yesterday, but this was even better! Two of them wore tracking collars, proof that the pack was being monitored. While most of the adult dogs rested, with a few keeping watch, the pups acted like pups—they ran around, pounced on each other, and playfully nipped at each other’s ears. Adorable!

















Since we’d done our homework 🙂, we knew that wild dogs are often followed by hyenas, so we scanned the bush. And sure enough, there was one—followed by a second! They kept their distance, but we managed to get closer before they disappeared into the tall grass. The day was off to an amazing start!









We continued our journey westward. As we progressed, the wetlands became more extensive, and the wildlife remained abundant.

How lucky to have met those African wild dogs! 🐺

Hi Ludo,

A bit late to the party—I hope there’s still a spot for me in your carriage🙂! Your story is such a vivid and precise read. How lucky to have seen that brown hyena in KTP! Are the tracks in Moremi manageable, or are they best left to experienced off-roaders? I’m eagerly waiting for the next part of your travel journal.

It's true that for a first encounter with African wild dogs, we were really lucky to see so many, so close, and for so long.

When we were there, at the end of the dry season, the tracks weren’t flooded, even at the bridges. We were completely inexperienced and didn’t run into any particular problems, though some tracks were trickier than others.

09/28/2019 (Part 2): Moremi

We continue the track toward the west of Moremi. No matter the animal species, there are lots of babies, and the number of elephants we’ve seen is incredible.

















We finally reach the third bridge, which isn’t submerged by water. We really regret not being able to book a campsite at Xakanaxa or Third Bridge because this western part of Moremi is truly stunning. We take a little coffee break at Third Bridge campsite and even manage to grab a shower (better than at Mbudi Camp ;)).













We would’ve loved to circle Mboma Island, but worried about running out of time, we decide to skip it. We continue our route via the second bridge, then the first bridge, and go around the Bodomatau wetland area. In this part, the track is really winding and narrow, often with very deep sand and lots of vegetation scratching the car. Sometimes, the track is flooded, and we have to find an alternative (thanks, Maps.me). In short, we found the area tough, and on top of that, we didn’t see many animals.









We’re really happy to reach the Xakanaxa area and its slightly easier tracks.

Question for the experts: what species of antelope is this? 😮

We’re on schedule and calmly head toward North Gate, which we reach right on time at 6:00 PM. And by sheer luck, we run into our friends there. Just like the night before, we arrive at Mbudi Campsite as the sun is almost setting. During dinner, once night has fallen, we spot the silhouette of a hippopotamus grazing not far from us. We stay on our guard.

We also saw African wild dogs in northern Tanzania—what a magical moment! ❤️

Hyenas and African wild dogs, what luck!😎

Hi Ludo,

I think it’s a sitatunga antelope or waterbuck, Tragelaphus spekii, common in aquatic areas.

I thought the waterbuck had stripes and spots on its coat. But the antelope was far away, so we couldn’t see well... Thanks, Eric

29/09/2019 (Part 1): Khwai River

When we wake up, we discover some worrying tracks between our two cars.



The location of the Mubdi Camp sites, right by the river, is truly fantastic. Hippos are calmly resting in the middle of the water, elephants come to drink, and aquatic birds dominate the scene. So, we linger a bit to take it all in. We’d forgotten that check-out was at 9:30 AM. We’re running a little late, and they let us know!











Today’s leg is short since we’re heading to Dijara Campsite, near Mababe, less than thirty kilometers away. The dirt road leading there is pretty smooth but very dusty. It’s essential to keep a good distance from the car in front if you want any visibility. You also have to watch out for elephants that might cross at any moment. When we arrive at Dijara Campsite, we drive around in circles trying to find the reception. No luck! We’re not the only ones—another vehicle seems to be looking for something too. We pull up next to them and strike up a conversation. It’s a Portuguese father and son who confirm they’re also looking for the reception. Especially since our vouchers clearly state not to set up camp just anywhere. Since they’re friendly and we hit it off, we suggest sharing the same spot, which is plenty big for our three cars. But that’ll be for tonight because we have no intention of hanging around here now. We continue down the small track south for a kilometer or two. The concentration of elephants is impressive. At times, we’re practically surrounded by the pachyderms… and not exactly reassured! We reach a stunning viewpoint overlooking the river as it loops around.



Then we head to the north bank of the Khwai River, south of the track linking Mababe to Khwai. And what a discovery! This marshy area is like a real Noah’s Ark. Almost every animal species seems to have gathered here. The elephants, of course, which we watch playing and fully submerging themselves in the water.







The hippos and crocodiles were masters of free diving.







The usual giraffes with their elegant, swaying gait.



Baboons, warthogs, zebras, wildebeest, and all sorts of antelope species, including the rather rare sable antelopes and roan antelopes. Not to mention the birds: eagles, bee-eaters, ibises, jacanas, etc. We’re amazed!











At one point, the river narrows and looks shallow. We hesitate to cross it but ultimately decide against it, though not without regret. 😕

09/29/2019 (Part 2): Khwai River

We continue our day along the Khwai River, a territory shared between the Khwai Concession and the far south of Savuti. The concentration of wildlife is still very high.







A mud bath is great for the skin! :)



The afternoon is already well underway when we come across two lionesses and two cubs doing their favorite activity: sleeping! The little ones are absolutely adorable.











A little further on, we’re intrigued by the presence of many vehicles. There are indeed a few hippos not too far away, but nothing that explains why there are so many people here.







Strangely, the passengers in the 4x4s all seem to be looking through binoculars in opposite directions. After asking some of them, we learn that a leopard was spotted here the day before, and everyone’s hoping it’ll show up again today. But most importantly, we’re told there’s a group of nine lionesses nearby. We find them easily, but most of them are completely lethargic.













Where are the lions? :o

Even though the sunset over the Khwai River could’ve been stunning, we prefer to head back to Dijara before nightfall. Our new Portuguese friends are already settled in, and we set up next to them as planned. We spend the evening over a beer, swapping stories about our various travel experiences and marveling at the clarity of the Botswanan sky.