Unusual trip to Rajasthan November 2022 (page 4 of 6)

Here are some great reading suggestions! Thanks Marie Jo, Michel, and also Kola for the details. I live in a small town, and it’s not always easy to find books about India locally. Personally, I also love Indian literature that immerses me in the stories of a region or city I’m about to visit.

16 Nov (end) I continue my search for old baoris. I cross the market, go through the gate, take the street to the right along the temple—this baori is called Bhavaldi Baori. It’s in ruins and very dirty. From what I remember, there’s another one nearby. Sure enough, it’s a little farther away; it’s closed, but you can climb over the top. At the back, there are houses.



I keep walking through these alleys and pass by a temple. Some houses have beautifully decorated entrances.





The typical alleys of Bundi and the return of schoolchildren.

Another great book on stepwells *The Vanishing Stepwells of India* by Victoria Lautmann—available on Amazon. Another one: *Gods in the Images: Rock Art and Tribal Art in Central India* by Meenakshi Dubey-Pathak.

I also love reading books about the regions I visit.

Got it, thanks Marie Jo!

Thursday, Nov 17 This morning, I take the bus to Bijolia temples. I catch the bus at 9:20 AM and arrive in Bijolia at 11 AM. An auto-rickshaw is right in front of the bus stop. It takes me to see the temples outside the city. The complex includes three Shiva temples—the Mahakal, Undeshwar Mahadev, and Hajareshwar temples—and the Mandakini Kund. They were built in the 12th century.







I’m the only visitor and I take my time. The driver comes to let me know the bus to Bundi leaves at 12:20 PM. Last photos and we’re off.





Back in Bundi, I head back to the dhaba for lunch, then take a rickshaw to Sukh Mahal by Lake Jait Sagar. This is where Kipling stayed. The visit isn’t really all that interesting. I walk back to Bundi—it’s a nice little stroll—and stop for a break at Sathi Lassi.

Friday, November 18 I continue visiting around Bundi. I take the bus to Kota at 8:20 AM and arrive around 10:00 AM. I need to take a rickshaw to cross the city and find the bus to Kaithoon, where I arrive at 11:00 AM.

I wander the streets looking for stepwells. I ask around several times—there are two in these alleys, but they’re in ruins and dirty.



I head back toward the market, and a guy on a motorcycle stops and offers to take me to the buses. A motorcycle ride? You don’t turn that down. I haven’t seen much here, so I need to keep searching. Christine told me about a blue baori on the way to Kota—I didn’t see anything when I arrived by bus. I ask in a shop, and the man goes to get his daughter, who invites me into the back of the store. Here I am with a chai in hand, trying to explain what I’m looking for. She offers to show me around Kaithoon, and her sister wants to come too—it’s great. We leave the shop, and she says we’re waiting for her dad, who went to get the car. I couldn’t ask for anything better.

We visit a temple and, next to it, a baori—the Vibhishan baoli Kaithoon. It’s not blue, but that’s okay—this one isn’t listed anywhere.





We get back in the car, and they insist on showing me their farm. The tour starts with the cowshed.



Then we pass by a carpentry workshop.



And we arrive in a field of young guava trees heavy with fruit.



Further on, the mustard fields are in full bloom.



After the tour, they ask what else I’d like to see. Kota Doria sarees come from Kaithoon, so I’d love to see a weaving workshop if possible—and with this family, all I have to do is ask, and off we go. First, we stop to say hello to their 90-year-old grandfather. He has beautiful charpoys he made himself.





Then we walk to different houses where women work at their looms. It takes them 15 days to make one saree. They have the pattern on paper, which they reproduce in weaving. They use several small shuttles with different colors and a larger one for the background of the fabric. These are sarees of incredible beauty made from silk. What an art—this knowledge is passed down from mother to daughter. I hope it lasts a long time; these women are true artists.



The saris are stunning. The visits are over, and we return to their home, where the mom has prepared a meal I’m invited to. The girls offer to let me stay the night or, for my next trip, to skip the hotel in Bundi and come here instead. They’d love for other travelers to meet them and show them around their town. I had such a great time with them. I still hear from them regularly, and every time, they ask when I’ll come back to see them—but that’s not possible for now. What a beautiful encounter.

They walk me back to the bus, and I learn there’s a direct bus to Bundi, but I want to visit Kota’s City Palace first (entry 300 rs). The palace is decorated with beautiful frescoes, mural paintings, mirrored hangings, and even the ceiling. There’s also a museum inside the palace with a collection of weapons and outfits from former kings... The visit is really interesting.









Back to Bundi for my last evening.

Saturday, November 19 Today I’m heading to Udaipur and making a stop in Chittorgarh. Luckily, I did my research yesterday because there’s no bus and the only train leaves at 5:45 AM—I didn’t have the energy to wake up that early, so I decided to take a taxi. The driver picked me up at 8:00 AM, and we arrived in Chittor at 10:20 AM. The road was good, so I made the right choice. The taxi dropped me off with a rickshaw driver who took me to visit the fort. The entry ticket is 600 Rs, but today it’s free because the guards are on strike. It’s one of the largest forts in India, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013.

It has seven gates, several palaces, the Victory Tower, and many temples. The visit starts with the palace and the museum, which is open (100 Rs).



Then we head to the Mira Temple within the fort grounds.



The Kumbha Shyam Temple (Varaha Temple), the largest in the complex.



The entrance gate to the Victory Tower.



The Victory Tower, which is unfortunately closed today due to the strike.



This fort is called a water fort. Originally, it had 84 water bodies, including ponds, wells, and stepwells covering about 84% of the fort’s area. View of the city from one of the fort’s highest points.



And the Gaumukh Reservoir.



Indian tourists are out in full force—I’ve never seen so many since I started my trip. After the visit, the rickshaw driver takes me to lunch at a restaurant and then to the bus for Udaipur. I check in as usual at the Panorama Guesthouse. The whole neighborhood has been paved, which makes it much more pleasant to walk around and, as a result, much cleaner. I take a stroll toward the pedestrian bridge—I know it well, but the view is always breathtaking.



Here too, there are lots of Indian tourists, and it’s great to see them exploring their rich heritage. They’re often more interested in fancy hotels and restaurants (not to mention selfies), but here they’re in the historic district, just like me.



Udaipur at night is magical. I love this city. I have my habits—I feel almost at home—so I head to Harigarh for dinner. I don’t even need the menu; I’ve been dreaming of their tomato eggplant dish, and it’s delicious. The alcoves offer a stunning view of the lake and palaces, but the seats are reserved.

Sunday, November 20th. Yesterday, when I arrived at the guesthouse, I asked Krishna to book me a taxi for this morning and tomorrow. Today, I’m heading to Jagat, 55 km from the guesthouse. Krishna doesn’t know this temple, I invite him but he doesn’t have anyone to look after the house. We drive through Udaipur where they’re repaving the roads all over the city. The road to Jagat isn’t great, and it takes us nearly two hours to get there. At the temple entrance, lots of motorbikes are parked, but the people haven’t come to visit the temple. There’s a ceremony on the side in a small temple. A fire with burning coconuts gives off intense heat. The women are all gathered at the entrance of this small temple. On the side, a man plays a drum, and inside the temple, I hear a man shouting loudly—he’s struggling, while another man fans him with peacock feathers. I can’t see much, but the shouts are impressive.



I visit the temple with beautiful statues. It’s called the Khajuraho of Rajasthan. The temple walls are decorated with large statues of gods and goddesses, as well as dancers, singers, musicians, and beautiful women. This 10th-century temple has exceptional statues. I’m thrilled—I’ve wanted to come here for years, and as soon as I arrive in Udaipur, I usually skip visits, but this time I finally stuck to my plan.







The inside of the temple is also very beautiful. (I need to be careful—I’m nearing 300 photos.) I go back to the ceremony. The man sitting inside the temple is quite young. The drummer plays for a long time, and an elderly woman stands in front of the seated man. He starts hitting himself, lets out shouts, his eyes roll back, he begins to tremble, and he goes into a trance. He stands up, takes chains, and flagellates himself—it’s impressive. Then he talks to the woman, and the scene repeats, lasting a long time.

We return to Udaipur, and the driver takes a different, much better road. I’m still under the effect of this ceremony—I didn’t understand any of it. I have lunch at the Jasmine restaurant before my traditional walk. I start at the Jain temple near the clock tower.



I continue to the market near the India Gate. Today’s Sunday, so the shops along the road are closed. The market, however, is lively, and I’m enjoying myself. I recognize some people near the basket-weaving stalls.

Monday, November 21st. I arranged to meet the driver at 8:30 AM, but he was late and didn’t arrive until 9:15. We set off to visit Kumbhalgarh Fort. Barely underway, we stopped for diesel and then at a mechanic’s. The driver pulled a wheel and two tires from his trunk—I didn’t think we were ready to leave. The mechanic swapped the rear tire with the front one, put the tires and wheel back in the trunk, and it was finally time to go. On the way, we stopped for chai—the landscapes were stunning.

We arrived at 11:45 AM, and it was crowded.

This fort has a wall stretching 36 km—it’s the second-longest wall in the world after China’s and the second-largest fort in the country after Chittorgarh. The fort has seven entrance gates and seven ramparts with walls reinforced by curved bastions and watchtowers.





It also features many beautiful temples and palaces.



The landscapes are breathtaking too.



Entry costs 600 INR, and I spent a good two hours there. Time for lunch before visiting the Jain Temple of Ranakpur. This temple, with its 1,444 pillars, is an architectural marvel. It’s entirely built from white marble and covers 4,400 m². It includes 24 halls, 80 domes, and two bells weighing 110 kg each.



Every pillar is carved and unique. It took 65 years to build. .







The smaller temples outside are also beautifully carved.

Tuesday, November 23 Last morning in Udaipur, and I’m really going to make the most of it. I head toward the Tibetan market, turn right, and walk along the Rose Garden. I turn right again and follow the sign for the cable car. I pass through the gardens and hike up to the viewpoint over Lake Pichola.





Tuesday, November 23 Last morning in Udaipur, and I’m really going to make the most of it. I head toward the Tibetan market, turn right, and walk along the Rose Garden. I turn right again and follow the sign for the cable car. I pass through the gardens and hike up to the viewpoint over Lake Pichola. It’s one of my favorite gems in India—I just love coming here.



At 4 PM, a taxi driver picks me up to take me to the airport. The end of the trip is near. The driver tells me Udaipur is getting a makeover because in early December there’ll be a 5-day music and dance festival—everything has to be clean. He laments that young women are wearing jeans and abandoning the sari. His wife, though, still wears a sari. While driving, he even looks for photos of his family to show me. Flight to Delhi, and more sights await me.

(Re) Hi Marie Jo, I’ve been following this travel journal in silence, but with great interest because it reminded me of my own extraordinary trip to Rajasthan—especially since I visited most of the lesser-known sites you mention... It really inspired me to finally write my own travel journal about my trip to this Indian state. I keep thinking back to my incredible adventure at the Ranakpur temple, where I nearly left my skin and my life behind... But wow, there are *so* many travel journals about Rajasthan already, especially since Pagal will probably post theirs soon...

My trip wasn’t exactly recent, but my journal wouldn’t feel out of place because, from what you’ve written, I see that little has changed in this region. And here I am, always saying that India has changed so much in recent years. Of course, my reference point is Kerala. A century or more separates these two states.

Rajasthan remains timeless. It’s beautiful, it’s great, but it’s terribly sad how little the rituals, traditions, and therefore the mentalities have evolved. When I read that a man complains about young women abandoning the sari for jeans, it makes me angry. Of course, *they*—the men—have adopted Western clothing, but they still impose the tradition of the sari on women, which is undeniably stunning but so impractical in today’s daily life. And sadly, the tradition doesn’t stop at the sari...

Hi Jean Marie, It’s never too late to chime in!! I think it’s a shame that women are giving up the sari and the salwar kameez—it’s so much more vibrant and elegant than our jeans, even if jeans are more practical. Plus, it’s a craft—from fabric printing to weaving—that needs to be preserved, and it provides jobs for women, which is really important.

I think it's a shame that women are giving up saris and salwar kameez—it's so much more vibrant and elegant than our jeans. Plus, it's a craft, from fabric printing to weaving... that needs to be preserved, and it provides work for women, which is really important.

I totally get you! I used to love hoop skirts and crinolines when I lived another life. They were so vibrant and elegant. And they provided—*a lot*—of work for women. It's such a shame our fashionable ladies don’t wear them anymore. 😉

I’m falling back into old habits in Delhi and heading to the restaurant across from the Cottage Yes Please hotel for breakfast. Big surprise when I get there—it’s closed, the door padlocked. I backtrack to the Vivek Hotel restaurant, but the rooftop terrace is gone too, so I end up at Everest, where I have to climb three floors.

After all that, I do my shopping (cream, toothpaste—I really like these products and bring some back for my whole family).

All that’s left is to buy spices, and the market is next to Chowk Market, which I reach by metro. From the metro station, you have to cross a very narrow street to get to Khari Baoli. You emerge onto a wide road where pedestrians have broad sidewalks and rickshaw wallahs have the street—it’s calm and really pleasant.



I didn’t know this spot before, but I find it super nice and I’ll definitely come back on another trip. The spice and dried fruit market is lively, and the products are beautifully displayed—everything looks tempting.





On the way, I stop for my favorite drink: sugarcane juice with ginger. I made it a habit during the whole trip.



I spotted a dosa restaurant. Enjoy your meal!!

I take the metro again and head off to discover a garden near Humayun’s Tomb, Sunder Nursery (entry 200 rs). Every year when I pass through Delhi, I love making new discoveries, and this city is full of surprises. It’s a beautiful garden that was restored and inaugurated in 2018. It contains 15 monuments, 6 of which are UNESCO-listed. They date back to the 16th century and were built by the Mughals. Canals with water jets, basins, and small lakes lead to mausoleums surrounded by gardens with lawns, flowers, and over 300 types of trees—it’s Delhi’s largest botanical garden.









The place is stunning and peaceful. Indians come here to picnic, and there’s also a playground for kids and a restaurant.







Part of it is still under restoration.

A curious tree—the floss silk tree. It’s native to South America and nicknamed the "bottle tree" or "drunken stick." This tree has beautiful pink flowers and is cultivated for its wood, the cotton-like fiber around its seeds, and the oil extracted from them.



Its flowers are lovely.

Thursday, November 24th. It’s the last day and final visit to Fort Hauz Khas. Entry is paid: 300 Rs. The ruins include a madrasa, a mosque, a tomb with six pavilions, and a lake.









The place is peaceful, and that’s really nice in this city. Back to the hotel to pick up my bag and head to the airport. End of the trip. Thanks to everyone for following along. All that’s left is to post the one from Jodhpur to Narnaul (Feb 24)

Thanks Marie Jo for sharing your Rajasthan adventures with us! As always, your travel journals are packed with great tips for things to discover. We’ll be in Rajasthan next month and will partly follow in your footsteps. Looking forward to reading your next travel journal. Have a great evening, Gabriele

Thanks so much, Marie Jo, for this wonderful trip. I’m discovering the country bit by bit through the different travel journals in progress about India. So I’m looking forward to the next one 😉.

I’ll get started on this soon because I’m really enjoying diving back into it.