Peru: A childhood dream finally realized
Summary of our trip to Peru
As promised, here’s a summary of our trip and some tips for those of you who might be interested in this destination. Of course, this is just my personal experience—it might be different for others, depending on how you like to travel.
The destination Diverse landscapes, rich history, breathtaking sites, and a festive people. Plenty of hiking opportunities for enthusiasts.
Organization We were very happy we went with Tout Pérou. Their package is perfectly streamlined, and in the end, we saved over 1,500 € compared to the best quotes from traditional tour operators for the same itinerary. A big thank you to Laurent for his advice, professionalism, and availability. The drivers and guides were excellent. Note that the various discounts on flights, buses, etc., reduce the cost of the membership (for the premium option at 200 €, you save around 70 to 80 €).
Some price ideas • French-speaking guide: 40 to 60 € for a half-day; • Drivers: 90 to 120 € per day (sometimes 12 hours), depending on location and distance; • Airport transfer from Lima to Miraflores: 25 €; • Private boat on Lake Titicaca: 60 €; • Homestay with dinner: 35 €. • Bus from Chivay to Puno: 38 € per person • Bus from Puno to Cusco: 33 € per person (with breakfast and lunch) with the Tout Pérou discount
Transportation • Plane: Choose Latam. Domestic flights are reasonably priced (around 70 € with checked baggage under 23 kg). Note that prices are lower if you book in Peru. • Taxi: Generally cheap, but negotiate the price before getting in. Ask hotels or restaurants to call one for you—they’ll know the right fare. Official taxis have the license plate number on the sides and don’t have meters. • Bus: Stick to well-known companies—comfort and service are usually good. • Train: The one to Machu Picchu is overpriced! • Allow extra time for bus departures (30 minutes) or train departures (1 hour).
Hotels We picked them on Booking based on location, reviews, and price. Since we booked in February and got the Genius discount (plus occasional promotions—setting up alerts helped us adjust our reservations), we found the prices more than reasonable, especially compared to current rates. • Lima: Antigua Miraflores, a lovely upscale hotel, nice room for 70 €. • Arequipa: Plaza Central Hotel, charmingly old-fashioned and well-located: 46 €. • Colca Canyon: La Granja del Colca, simple but perfectly situated on the canyon slopes: 44 €. • Puno: Sol Plaza, a pleasant surprise, well-located with spacious rooms: 37 €. • Cusco: Kaaro House, not luxury but well-located and unbeatable price: 25 €. • Aguas Calientes: Panorama BB, great view, cozy room: 71 €. • Ollantaytambo: Picaflor Tambo GH, charming, small room: 58 €.
Restaurants You can generally eat well at reasonable prices. Our favorites: • Zig Zag in Arequipa, • Inka Nato Restaurante in Ollantaytambo, • Limo Peruano Nikkei and El Ollivo in Cusco, • Indio Feliz in Aguas Calientes, • Barra Maretazo in Miraflores, Lima. And don’t hesitate to try the *picantarias*—the price is minimal (under 5 €) for decent quality.
If we were to do it again We’d skip Toro Muerto and wouldn’t go to Lake Titicaca, even though we enjoyed the homestay and the serenity of Taquile. Both stops take too much time. The extra days could’ve been spent in the Amazon. Otherwise, we wouldn’t change a thing.
Best time to go We couldn’t have picked a better time. Not a drop of rain, generally mild temperatures (around 25 °C), though nights were cold (2 to 3 °C) at high altitudes. And to top it off, the Sun Festivals in Cusco all through June.
Our highlights • Machu Picchu (****), of course, but not just that! • The historic centers of Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa (***) • The variety of landscapes (***) • Taquile (***) • Ollantaytambo (****), Maras salt mines (***), Sacsayhuamán (***), Pisac (***), Tipon (**) • Colca Canyon (**) I’m sure I’ve forgotten some! • One regret: We skipped Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) due to health concerns. • One disappointment: Chinchero isn’t worth the trip.
Practical tips Here’s a summary of some great advice from Laurent.
Money • Exchange euros (clean bills) for soles at *Casas de Cambio*. In practice, the exchange rate is better in Arequipa (4.13 soles for 1 euro), then Lima (4.09 soles for 1 euro), and less favorable in Cusco (4 soles for 1 euro). • You can withdraw 400 soles twice a day. Use ATMs from Banco de la Nación—no fees, red Multired machines, though they’re not widespread. Avoid yellow Global Net ATMs; their withdrawal fees are high. • When paying by card, there’s often a 5% surcharge. Ask before paying. In reality, hotels and restaurants usually don’t add fees. • Bring small bills for daily purchases. • Guides, drivers, and restaurant staff expect a 10% tip, and drivers usually get 10 to 20 soles max, according to Laurent.
Phone For calls within Peru: Buy a Claro *prepago* SIM card, which you can top up at supermarkets and pharmacies (*recarga Claro*). Alternatively, check Movistar. We opted for a temporary international plan from France. Wi-Fi is generally good (even on buses), except in Taquile.
Miscellaneous • Plenty of laundromats in Cusco: 6 to 8 soles per kilo (cheaper the farther you go from the historic center). Just drop off your laundry in the morning and pick it up in the afternoon—it’ll be washed and dried. Some places iron for an extra fee.
Safety • We never felt unsafe, but of course, take basic precautions. We were warned about pickpockets, but we didn’t see any. • Be careful when crossing the street, even at a red light! Peruvians don’t always follow traffic rules.
Health Altitude sickness (MAM) or *soroche* Symptoms: Stomachaches, digestive issues, headaches. Prevention: • Drink plenty of water (2 to 3 liters a day), avoid alcohol. • Eat light (often one dish for two). • Limit exertion, don’t push yourself. • Coca leaves / coca tea / coca candies / coca drops. Treatment: • Don’t hesitate to visit a pharmacy—they know the issue, are well-equipped, and offer solutions. • First-aid kit: Bring aspirin (helps thin the blood and is good for prevention), anti-diarrheals, SMECTA (to restore gut flora), eye drops (the air is very dry at high altitudes), and stomach antibiotics.
That’s it for my travel journal! Hope it inspires or helps future travelers. I’m happy to answer any questions, to the best of my knowledge.
As promised, here’s a summary of our trip and some tips for those of you who might be interested in this destination. Of course, this is just my personal experience—it might be different for others, depending on how you like to travel.
The destination Diverse landscapes, rich history, breathtaking sites, and a festive people. Plenty of hiking opportunities for enthusiasts.
Organization We were very happy we went with Tout Pérou. Their package is perfectly streamlined, and in the end, we saved over 1,500 € compared to the best quotes from traditional tour operators for the same itinerary. A big thank you to Laurent for his advice, professionalism, and availability. The drivers and guides were excellent. Note that the various discounts on flights, buses, etc., reduce the cost of the membership (for the premium option at 200 €, you save around 70 to 80 €).
Some price ideas • French-speaking guide: 40 to 60 € for a half-day; • Drivers: 90 to 120 € per day (sometimes 12 hours), depending on location and distance; • Airport transfer from Lima to Miraflores: 25 €; • Private boat on Lake Titicaca: 60 €; • Homestay with dinner: 35 €. • Bus from Chivay to Puno: 38 € per person • Bus from Puno to Cusco: 33 € per person (with breakfast and lunch) with the Tout Pérou discount
Transportation • Plane: Choose Latam. Domestic flights are reasonably priced (around 70 € with checked baggage under 23 kg). Note that prices are lower if you book in Peru. • Taxi: Generally cheap, but negotiate the price before getting in. Ask hotels or restaurants to call one for you—they’ll know the right fare. Official taxis have the license plate number on the sides and don’t have meters. • Bus: Stick to well-known companies—comfort and service are usually good. • Train: The one to Machu Picchu is overpriced! • Allow extra time for bus departures (30 minutes) or train departures (1 hour).
Hotels We picked them on Booking based on location, reviews, and price. Since we booked in February and got the Genius discount (plus occasional promotions—setting up alerts helped us adjust our reservations), we found the prices more than reasonable, especially compared to current rates. • Lima: Antigua Miraflores, a lovely upscale hotel, nice room for 70 €. • Arequipa: Plaza Central Hotel, charmingly old-fashioned and well-located: 46 €. • Colca Canyon: La Granja del Colca, simple but perfectly situated on the canyon slopes: 44 €. • Puno: Sol Plaza, a pleasant surprise, well-located with spacious rooms: 37 €. • Cusco: Kaaro House, not luxury but well-located and unbeatable price: 25 €. • Aguas Calientes: Panorama BB, great view, cozy room: 71 €. • Ollantaytambo: Picaflor Tambo GH, charming, small room: 58 €.
Restaurants You can generally eat well at reasonable prices. Our favorites: • Zig Zag in Arequipa, • Inka Nato Restaurante in Ollantaytambo, • Limo Peruano Nikkei and El Ollivo in Cusco, • Indio Feliz in Aguas Calientes, • Barra Maretazo in Miraflores, Lima. And don’t hesitate to try the *picantarias*—the price is minimal (under 5 €) for decent quality.
If we were to do it again We’d skip Toro Muerto and wouldn’t go to Lake Titicaca, even though we enjoyed the homestay and the serenity of Taquile. Both stops take too much time. The extra days could’ve been spent in the Amazon. Otherwise, we wouldn’t change a thing.
Best time to go We couldn’t have picked a better time. Not a drop of rain, generally mild temperatures (around 25 °C), though nights were cold (2 to 3 °C) at high altitudes. And to top it off, the Sun Festivals in Cusco all through June.
Our highlights • Machu Picchu (****), of course, but not just that! • The historic centers of Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa (***) • The variety of landscapes (***) • Taquile (***) • Ollantaytambo (****), Maras salt mines (***), Sacsayhuamán (***), Pisac (***), Tipon (**) • Colca Canyon (**) I’m sure I’ve forgotten some! • One regret: We skipped Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) due to health concerns. • One disappointment: Chinchero isn’t worth the trip.
Practical tips Here’s a summary of some great advice from Laurent.
Money • Exchange euros (clean bills) for soles at *Casas de Cambio*. In practice, the exchange rate is better in Arequipa (4.13 soles for 1 euro), then Lima (4.09 soles for 1 euro), and less favorable in Cusco (4 soles for 1 euro). • You can withdraw 400 soles twice a day. Use ATMs from Banco de la Nación—no fees, red Multired machines, though they’re not widespread. Avoid yellow Global Net ATMs; their withdrawal fees are high. • When paying by card, there’s often a 5% surcharge. Ask before paying. In reality, hotels and restaurants usually don’t add fees. • Bring small bills for daily purchases. • Guides, drivers, and restaurant staff expect a 10% tip, and drivers usually get 10 to 20 soles max, according to Laurent.
Phone For calls within Peru: Buy a Claro *prepago* SIM card, which you can top up at supermarkets and pharmacies (*recarga Claro*). Alternatively, check Movistar. We opted for a temporary international plan from France. Wi-Fi is generally good (even on buses), except in Taquile.
Miscellaneous • Plenty of laundromats in Cusco: 6 to 8 soles per kilo (cheaper the farther you go from the historic center). Just drop off your laundry in the morning and pick it up in the afternoon—it’ll be washed and dried. Some places iron for an extra fee.
Safety • We never felt unsafe, but of course, take basic precautions. We were warned about pickpockets, but we didn’t see any. • Be careful when crossing the street, even at a red light! Peruvians don’t always follow traffic rules.
Health Altitude sickness (MAM) or *soroche* Symptoms: Stomachaches, digestive issues, headaches. Prevention: • Drink plenty of water (2 to 3 liters a day), avoid alcohol. • Eat light (often one dish for two). • Limit exertion, don’t push yourself. • Coca leaves / coca tea / coca candies / coca drops. Treatment: • Don’t hesitate to visit a pharmacy—they know the issue, are well-equipped, and offer solutions. • First-aid kit: Bring aspirin (helps thin the blood and is good for prevention), anti-diarrheals, SMECTA (to restore gut flora), eye drops (the air is very dry at high altitudes), and stomach antibiotics.
That’s it for my travel journal! Hope it inspires or helps future travelers. I’m happy to answer any questions, to the best of my knowledge.
