Madeira: Between Disappointment and Enchantment (page 4 of 5)

Thank you, Laure, for your attentive reading of my travel journals and for your always relevant and very kind remarks 🙂. Now it’s your turn to enjoy (again) the USA and share your experiences with us afterward 😛! I think your departure is coming up... Watch out for bears and mosquitoes—the first are visible from afar, but the second are often downright treacherous. They love me, a feeling I definitely don’t return . I’m obviously talking about mosquitoes, not bears, which I haven’t had the chance to meet yet (and honestly, I’m in no rush).

For us, as you already know, it’ll be the city after nature...

Me too, I’m more (and increasingly so, actually) into nature than cities

But London is so much more than just a city, and I’m not giving up on dragging my family to some *so British* green spots I’ve already scoped out .

Have a great holiday, all five of you, and see you soon on VF 😉 Laure

It's a shame you were partly disappointed with your stay, but every trip has uncontrollable elements. If other vacationers aren't friendly, that's not the destination's fault...

Still, you did some of the island's most beautiful hikes, especially São Lourenço and Pico Ruivo. It's true there's often fog on that trail because of the terrain, which is why you shouldn't hesitate to postpone the walk to the next day if you can and head out early in the day. You can't control the weather either—that's the same everywhere. It'd be too perfect otherwise!

Luckily, when bad weather hits, it never lasts long, and the island is so beautiful you can still enjoy it even without bright sunshine. Plus, there are several levadas that are recommended on rainy days because they're protected by vegetation, like the Levada dos Cedros between Encumeada and Porto Moniz or the one in the forest just south of Santana.

Hi Olivier,

Of course, everyone’s feelings are very personal, and that’s what makes this forum so rich 😉 The weather, fatigue, and all those little uncontrollable things can change how we perceive a place.

Still, as you’ve probably noticed, what truly "enchanted" me in Madeira was the nature and the hikes we did—absolutely stunning, maybe even more so with those mysterious banks of mist.

My disappointment, as I mentioned, came more from the coastlines and the sometimes overly aggressive developments, but even that’s just my personal take. That said, I can reassure you: the enchantment far outweighed the disappointment 😛

Have a great day!

Huge issue! Tourism lets us discover a country and helps that country and its people develop—sometimes even survive—but on the other hand, it can also distort or even disfigure it when it's poorly managed. This is less and less the case today because authorities now have examples of what *not* to do and avoid certain mistakes, but it's still a tough balance to strike. In Madeira, they’ve chosen to offer an alternative to hiking tourism with places like Calheta and Machico, which attracts a different type of clientele. Not necessarily the happiest outcome, but economically, it makes sense... Fortunately, in my opinion, it’s still limited, and most of the island—especially the northern half—is well preserved. That said, some areas are definitely less appealing than others.

I was on the Spanish coast two years ago. It must’ve been a little slice of paradise 40 years ago.

For us, it’ll be a few days in London at the end of July.

Phew, back from Scotland!! And you, back from London?

See you soon, JF

Hi Jeff,

Yes, we’re back from London, and now I’m all set to take a retrospective trip to Scotland with you and yours... 😛 We sure do travel a lot on VF—we *almost* never stop See you soon! Laure

Lovely post and stunning photos. I just got back from Madeira, and I don’t share all your opinions, but... they’re your opinions. That said, in some shops, I wondered if they’d had their 4 o’clock tea stolen? Some bars clearly hiked up their prices (it felt like "tourist" was written on our foreheads). But the rest... Wow! I recognize some of your photos in mine ;) It’s true that I had questions about one spot with quite a few dead trees (apparently from an insect killing the pines), but luckily, the eucalyptus trees grow fast and replace them quickly. I see you stayed in a hotel (or at least, it looks like it)—we preferred staying in guesthouses (*casas serenas*), and I have to say, we were blown away! A wonder, a paradise on earth. I highly recommend it if you go back! We’ll definitely return to Madeira. The guesthouse owners suggested coming back during the flower season because the *levadas* are even more beautiful then... I can’t even imagine! See you in 2 years ;) Sophie (sparkles)

Hi Sophie,

Could you tell us about the opinions you don’t share?

Can you give us some info about your guesthouse?

What were your favorite spots: villages, hikes, sites?

Thanks, Laurence

Hello Yemen, My opinion does differ on a few points, but that’s perfectly normal—we don’t all have the same expectations or perspectives. For example, in Funchal, I loved the oceanfront walk that goes from Funchal to Câmara de Lobos, a village I ended up visiting and really enjoying as well. But it’s true that I didn’t have a tourist guide, and I wandered, discovered, felt, and observed the people living there. Sure, it’s not very big, and the shop sells pretty much the same things as the others, but I found it extraordinary, really! As for the "meteorological clemency" of Funchal compared to the rest of the island...???? I didn’t quite get it at first until I realized that our narrator (who truly has talent, not to mention being a great photographer) had her base there. So when coming back from the north, it makes sense... But in terms of weather, the rest of the south coast is just as good—if not a bit sunnier than Calheta. The Fanal Forest, which my hosts strongly recommended, calling it "the magical forest"—what a fitting nickname! We visited it in the fog too, and what a WONDER! The trees under that mist turn into lace, and you half-expect to see little fairies appear. That’s exactly how Sandrine (Lisette’s daughter, the owner of the guesthouse) described it in her tips, comparing it to Brocéliande. The black cows grazing there become ghostly. In short, I LOVED it! I could’ve stayed for hours. I also really enjoyed visiting the North. A wild coast—you feel like you’re at the end of the world. A pure emerald, the mountains—when I was lucky enough to see them through the fog—are so mysterious and fabulous. It gives you that "great adventure" feeling!

Ah... and Jardim do Mar... STUNNING! (Again, in my opinion.) I wouldn’t say it’s a village "renovated with study," but rather preserved, calm, and playful with its labyrinthine alleys where we delighted in getting lost. The sunset over the cliffs we watched at the end of the day was... wow... Next time, we’ll definitely bring a little basket with a bottle and two glasses ;) And to wrap up our differing opinions on the island’s name... Well, September isn’t the best time to visit! But then... what’s it like when it *is* the right time??? (So we’ll be back in the spring to see the show.) Maybe we were influenced by the garden at Casas Serenas, where flowers are in abundance, and Lisette opened our eyes to this discovery... As for telling you more about the guesthouse where we stayed... Given the beauty of the garden, the stunning decor of the house (Casa Romantica), and the warm, family-like welcome from Lisette and Jacky (who’s a real clown—he had us laughing during a little apéritif!), not to mention the fruit basket we got on arrival... it was royal. We couldn’t help but promise to spread the word about them! Though I doubt they really need it, since I found their address on this site too. Here’s the link to their blog where you can find photos: http://casas-serenas.blogspot.fr/ To contact them, I went through this blog. I got in touch with Sandrine, who’s in France (they’re French) and handles bookings for her parents. Her welcome was super professional! (I later learned she’s a pro in commerce—makes sense!!) She was very available and helped me plan this trip. I really recommend them. (Small downside: you need a car to get to the beach, which is 2 km away—too bad for me since I love swimming... And Calheta isn’t the prettiest village either. But Jardim do Mar is only 5 km away! Sparkle (Soso)

thanks Pétille,

Your reply is bubbling with life, feelings, and little joys.

I’ll get back to you when I’m really preparing for the trip soon.

laurence

Hi Sophie,

Thank you so much for sharing your experience and also for your kind comments on my story 😉. Of course, we don’t all have the same opinions, perspectives, or expectations about a country—and thank goodness for that! It’d be so dull if everyone traveled to the same places in the same way!

Personally, I plan my trips so much that they start as soon as the project is set. I read guidebooks, of course, but also testimonials I find here and there, along with geographical, economic, and sometimes political articles. I love comparing travelers’ experiences with those of locals when possible. As a result, I do leave with a very fixed image in mind. That has its advantages... and its drawbacks. The clash between imagination and reality can be brutal, but it’s also allowed me to discover little hidden gems, some off-the-beaten-path routes, and I’ve never regretted it. Imagination is always different from reality, so surprises are guaranteed. My travel companion, who just goes with the flow and doesn’t plan anything , certainly has a completely different approach.

Like you, I loved the Fanal Forest and its unique, magical, almost fairy-tale atmosphere. On the other hand, I didn’t appreciate the North at all. You describe it as mysterious and captivating, while I found it oppressive, almost sinister. You can tell we’re talking about the same place in our descriptions, yet our feelings are polar opposites. It’s all about personality, timing... What subtleties each of us carries!

More than three months after this trip, my impressions have turned into memories, and the sharp edges of criticism have softened. What remains in my mind are the wonderful hikes in the mountains, along the levadas, the sound of water rushing, the rustling of lush vegetation, and green, green everywhere, as far as the eye can see. Madeira will stay in my mind for its fabulous nature and breathtaking hikes. The rest, I’ve let go of.

Sure, you stayed in a guesthouse while we preferred a hotel, but I sometimes choose the anonymity of a larger place that lets us reclaim, for the duration of a trip, a bit of the intimacy that daily life so stubbornly steals from us. But that’s another topic 😛

As for going back to Madeira, it’s not on the agenda. It’s not that the island didn’t please us, but I generally refuse to consider the same destination twice. The world is so vast, I have so many ideas, so many desires... I’ve made the choice to explore, and I try to pick my path so it leads me to new horizons. Again, this is a very personal choice—not to delve deeper, not to get into the details. But life is made of choices, and choices are also about letting go...

Happy future travels, Sophie/Pétille, and thank you again for such an enriching post. Laure

hi, we’re heading back to Madeira from May 10th to 21st, 2016....I read your post about renting a car carefully....it’s really interesting, especially since scams seem so common....could you tell me more about it??? your photos of Ponta de São Lourenço are amazing, so we’re definitely going there now...thanks and have a great day..

Good evening Michel,

For car rentals, we often book through the Carigami website (which used to be locationdevoiture.fr). I find their site clear and the additional insurance options well detailed, but it’s still a middleman, and we haven’t tested their services in case of any issues. Their prices are quite competitive, and unlike others, you can see the rental company when booking.

I like having zero-excess insurance, but that’s a personal choice. Having two drivers is convenient, and I don’t like the note: "return the tank empty"—first because it’s never completely empty, and second because the refill is usually charged at an exorbitant price.

It’s true that car rentals come with so many scams that we’ve become very suspicious when dealing with this step, which causes quite a bit of stress.

In Madeira, with Avis, we had no issues at all. If you have any specific questions, don’t hesitate.

Regarding Ponta de São Lourenço, if you get the chance, go in the afternoon—the light will be better. It’s absolutely stunning! Happy planning, and feel free to ask for any other tips.

Have a good evening, Laure

hi laure, thanks for your reply... if I have any other questions, I won’t hesitate... have a good evening michel

Hello Laure,

I’m new to this discussion forum and I’ve read your comments about Madeira, which interest me a lot.

I’ve already been to Madeira for a week, but it was for work. From what I saw, I found it magnificent!

Now, my wife and I are possibly planning to go there for our vacation for two weeks around mid-September.

The goal of our vacation is a mix of relaxation in a nice hotel with a pool and ocean access (I saw the Quinta da Penha da França hotel in Funchal, for example) and renting a car for the duration of our stay to explore. We love nature, flowers, and so on.

My question is whether two weeks in Madeira might be too long. Would you recommend spending the full two weeks in Madeira, or maybe just one week in Madeira and the second week in Portugal on the mainland? Or the other way around?

Looking forward to reading your reply soon.

Best regards,

Etienne

hi there, if you want to see everything, a fortnight is great... as for us, my wife and I visited Lisbon and Madeira last year, and we're heading back in a month to do Porto and Madeira again... Portugal is such a charming country. happy travels and enjoy your stay!

Good evening Etienne,

My question is whether two weeks in Madeira isn’t too long.

I’ll give you my opinion, which is of course very subjective. Madeira is a magnificent and diverse island, with distinct northern, eastern, southern, western, and central regions, but it’s still relatively small.

If you plan to explore it on foot with plenty of hikes, there’s no doubt you’ll have enough to do in two weeks. However, if you prefer a more superficial visit, sticking to the major sites and relying on a car, and you don’t want or can’t walk much, then I’d say a week might be enough.

That said, I’d add a caveat:

The goal of our vacation is a mix of relaxation in a nice hotel with a pool and ocean access

If this trip is also about rest and recovery, then two weeks could definitely work. It all depends on your travel pace. Just one more note about ocean access: beaches are rare in Madeira and aren’t the island’s main attraction.

Lastly, don’t forget the neighboring island of Porto Santo. I haven’t had the chance to go there yet, but it could be an appealing alternative—like 10 days in Madeira and 4 in Porto Santo. That’s probably the option I’d choose in your situation BUT, I don’t know Portugal (yet 😉) AND I’m not in your shoes 😇.

Hope this helps a little with your decision... Best regards, Laure

Hi Michel,

Thanks so much for your reply to my post today.

Etienne

Hi Laure,

Thanks so much for your reply to my message today.

Best regards and have a great evening.

Etienne

Hey there,

I’d like to add my two cents since I spent 4 days in Madeira in January.

The goal of our vacation is a mix of relaxation in a nice hotel with a pool and ocean access (I saw, for example, the Quinta da Penha da França hotel in Funchal), and renting a car for the duration of our stay to go on excursions. We really enjoy nature, flowers, etc.

With one exception (ocean access), you’ll find the Choupana Hills Resort & Spa. I loved it. Sure, it’s up in the hills and doesn’t have direct sea access, but it’s right in the middle of nature (a levada runs through it). It’s a hotel I can only recommend—maybe one of the best I’ve ever stayed in. Just so you know, the hotel helps with car rentals and provides shuttles to and from downtown Funchal.

My question is whether two weeks in Madeira is too long. Would you recommend spending both weeks in Madeira, or, for example, just one week in Madeira and the second week in mainland Portugal? Or the other way around?

Two weeks seems a bit long to me. In 4 days, we honestly covered a lot without feeling rushed. That said, we didn’t go to Porto Santo. If the goal is just to relax, though… why not!