Kyushu between Fukuoka and Nagasaki in autumn 2024 (Japan) (page 5 of 5)

Day 16 - On the way back to Fukuoka

It’s time for us to leave Nagasaki. We’d hesitated a lot about coming to this city for no real reason, but we had some kind of unexplained aversion to it. We ended up visiting without being sure we’d stay long, but in the end, we extended our stay and have no regrets—this city really won us over. It’s retro and peaceful. Strolling around is really enjoyable, and the surrounding area is full of discoveries. We’ll definitely come back with pleasure.

We left calmly in the morning. We have about 2-3 hours of driving ahead because, as usual, we didn’t plan to take the highway, and we also wanted to make two sightseeing stops in Saga Prefecture.

Our first stop was a private 20-hectare forest garden designed by Masaaki Tsuruda, a famous environmental artist and Japanese master gardener. It took 30 years to plant over 10,000 maple trees and arrange natural elements like ponds and stones to create a pleasant natural space. To get there, we wound our way up the mountain roads of Mount Sakurei, reaching an altitude of 887 meters.

There was staff at the entrance directing traffic, even though there wasn’t a huge crowd. Staff to welcome you, staff to help you buy tickets from the machine, staff to guide you to the restrooms, and staff for the forest’s highlight spot... the place seemed touristy for the area.

We laughed with the two women helping us buy tickets from the machine because it’s autumn and for them, it’s "cold," while for us, the temperatures were still mild, and we were wearing short sleeves.

Naturally, the staff immediately guided us to the garden’s highlight... Fuyusansō, a spacious villa nestled in the heart of the forest. It’s said to have been built using recycled materials from a century-old house. Large windows replace the walls, and the view that unfolds before us is breathtaking. It’s stunning and a particularly photogenic spot. In fact, staff manage the rotation of the two lacquered tables dedicated to photos, even going so far as to take your phone and snap the picture for you. You can tell this place is popular, and there might be a line, so you can’t linger too long. You can still take a little time to look around the room, but you won’t be able to sit down and sip tea while enjoying this dreamy landscape—that’s a real shame! The outdoor scenery is reflected like a mirror. It’s absolutely beautiful!



We then strolled through the forest garden. There are plenty of trees, a flowing river whose sound fills the air, and a pond... We wandered and took the time to appreciate the landscapes around us. The *koyo* (reddening of the leaves) had started to make its appearance.





We ran into a Korean couple and chatted for a few minutes with the woman, who, because we could say hello in Korean, assumed we were into K-pop. When we told her no, she seemed shocked! We reassured her that we still knew what it was, though. The lively and bubbly energy of Koreans is really fun.

We finished our walk and headed to our next destination, about 30 minutes away.

It was Mikaeri No Taki waterfall, on the Ikisa River in Ouchi, Karatsu. The waterfall, over 100 meters high, is ranked among Japan’s 100 most beautiful waterfalls. It’s surrounded by lush vegetation. The road to the small parking lot nearby is also picturesque, as it follows the river for several minutes. Again, we weren’t expecting such a spectacle. The waterfall is simply impressive and exhilarating. You can approach it from one side and walk around via a bridge where you can see it from a distance. When you get up close, you’re completely splashed by the water. You feel the power of the waterfall, and it’s a real rush—we loved this breath of fresh air.



We took the time to enjoy it before getting back in the car as the sunset painted the sky.

We had to return the car by 7:45 PM, and it was already 7:15 PM when we arrived in Fukuoka. We found our accommodation, but since there was no parking and this time we were in a livelier, more dynamic neighborhood, we parked at a 7-Eleven despite the sign saying it was only for konbini customers. We struggled to get into the building and then check in because there was no staff—just a tablet. It was funny trying to figure it out with our limited English, but we managed in the end. We dropped off our things and quickly headed out to get gas. Here, we saw something we hadn’t seen before: the gas pumps were mounted on the ceiling to save space.

We made it to the car rental agency just in time at 7:45 PM. Thankfully, because the welcome here wasn’t exactly warm or friendly. Our two-week road trip was over. Now, it was back to urban travel and exploring Fukuoka for three days.

We ate at a Korean restaurant that evening. You could choose your spice level from 1 to 6. We wanted to play it tough since we like spicy food, but level 5 was a challenge. It was extremely hot. The Korean fried chicken with sweet and spicy sauce, though, was delicious.



To end the evening, we wandered the streets, soaking up the dynamic energy of the city at night, especially since we were in the Tenjin district.



There are lots of *yatai* (street food stalls). We even walked past the famous French *yatai* "Chez Rémi." Its reputation clearly isn’t exaggerated—there was a long line of Japanese people waiting to eat there.

Photo of a *yatai* (not "Chez Rémi") and "Chez Rémi"





When we got back late, we checked out our apartment. It was very comfortable—two double beds, a large bathroom and shower, a washing machine, a small living room, a kitchenette, all in a simple, understated decor.

End of the day. Fukuoka to be continued.

Day 17 - Fukuoka city - Sweetness of life

The day is sunny but not too much, with a bit of wind but not too strong. In short, perfect weather for strolling around the city. We take the subway to Akasaka station and then walk to Maizuru Park, not far from there. This park is home to the ruins of Fukuoka Castle... the ramparts. The interesting part is that it offers a lovely high-up view of Ohori Park and a bit of the city.





We then continued to Ohori Park, where we first took some time to relax by the pond. It was peaceful. Ducks were swimming, and some office workers were collecting algae that had clumped together in the water.

We continued our visit with the pleasant Ohori Teien garden. A newlywed couple was leaving just as we arrived. The garden is lovely and worth the visit. There weren’t many people there.



We then resumed our walk in the park, this time circling the pond. It was the perfect opportunity to see that this park is a regular part of daily life, much loved by the Japanese: jogging, walking, outings with pets, kids’ games, pedal boats, and quiet contemplation by the pond, etc... We enjoyed a beautiful sunset that was truly delightful. This park is a green lung you definitely shouldn’t miss.



We left the park to find a cocktail bar/tea salon I wanted to try. To get there, we walked through quiet little streets dotted with charming shops. We finally arrived at the place in a quiet alley. We could see it through the large windows. From the outside, we could already sense its cozy atmosphere. Two young women came out. They were thrilled with their experience but mentioned it was very expensive. We had read that reservations were recommended, but since we don’t plan our schedule too far in advance, we decided to try our luck without one. And it wasn’t a problem at all—there weren’t many people inside.

Why this place? Because it’s a bar specializing in tea-based cocktails. The setting: a copper counter open in the center of the room. The space was lit by very dim lighting, giving it a very intimate feel. A bartender dressed in a white lab coat, like a scientist, all set to a background of jazzy soul music. Seated on our bar stools, it was time to choose from the menu, which was printed on aged paper and entirely in Japanese. The bartender gave us some explanations, and we made our choices. Shortly after, one of the servers came by to offer us pastries to enjoy with our cocktails. It was also possible to have tea, but we were intrigued by the mix of alcohol and tea.

For my partner, it was a matcha cocktail based on martini, if I remember correctly, and for me, it was a whisky based on hojicha, a roasted tea. The preparation of my cocktail was a treat for the senses—the hojicha was pan-toasted, releasing a warm aroma. They brought us our pastries. Being foodies, we each had two: a matcha fondant and a chestnut dessert. The cakes were small, but the flavors exploded in our mouths. Pure gustatory wonders! As for the cocktails, they were refreshing, delicate, and original. We extended the experience with another cocktail, this time plum-based.



It was really nice. However, the bill was steep, as the two young women had mentioned earlier. I must say, we didn’t quite understand the final price. I had read that after a certain hour, an additional fee is applied—maybe that was the case.

We then wandered around the neighborhood. We noticed that it has some really beautiful shops and seems to be a trendy area. Later, it was time to eat. We found ourselves in a livelier part of town. We stopped a family coming out of a yakitori restaurant to ask if it was any good. The woman thought about it and let us know it was just okay. The family then pointed us to another yakitori place a little further down the street, saying it was really good. The restaurant was packed. It had warm decor and a relaxed, cheerful vibe. We were seated at a table that could fit 8 people. In Japan, large tables are often shared with other customers.

To choose the skewers, they brought us a nice basket with all the options, making it easy to pick what we wanted.

We ordered a delicious fatty horse tartare and a plate of udon with kimchi and seaweed (a real treat). The skewers were amazing. The family hadn’t steered us wrong about the restaurant’s quality. What’s great in Japan is that even if the chefs seem a bit intimidating at times, they always care about the customers and keep an eye on you to make sure everything’s going well. Before leaving, we shared a few words to thank him for the meal.



We decided to walk back since the night was mild. We passed through several neighborhoods, including two very lively ones, without ever feeling unsafe. It was really pleasant.

Day 18 - Fukuoka

A day where we simply enjoyed Fukuoka. Stopped by the train station for the panoramic view from the top floor. The view isn’t breathtaking or very wide, but it’s free.



Lunch was gyozas instead of sushi. The restaurant we wanted to go to, even though it wasn’t full at all, turned us away because we didn’t have a reservation. We’ll go in the evening. Restaurant in a hotel near the station.





Strolled through the streets in the afternoon, with a relaxing moment in the quiet Shofuen Garden. A cute little Japanese garden with no one around.







The garden is near the zoo, so the manhole covers in the streets feature animal designs.

The enticing smell of a treat led us to a small crêperie in a completely residential neighborhood. While we were hesitating over whether to get a crêpe or not, the Japanese customer in front of us surprised us—she understood and spoke French. And it turned out the manager did too! Incredibly, she had even trained at Breizh Café in Cancale, Brittany. She was amazed to see us in this residential area. We chatted a bit in French and Japanese while enjoying some delicious crêpes with that authentic taste of Brittany.



That evening, we dined at the sushi restaurant we’d reserved at lunchtime. While the welcome was professional and quite cold, with a somewhat stiff atmosphere, the tasting menu was fabulous—a real treat for the taste buds. The chef was also keeping an eye on things from afar.





We also enjoyed the Christmas festivities in front of the station, with a small Christmas market, lights, and a concert.

DAY 19 - The last one before departure

This last day wasn’t spent on sightseeing but rather on final shopping and last-minute treats.

We also got to test the Japanese postal service for the first time. What can I say: efficiency and service! We barely waited 3 minutes to get to a counter. We had a package to send but didn’t actually have a box—just a gift, a card in an open paper bag. We filled out a form with the delivery address. Normally, you’d also need to write your return address in case of issues, but since we don’t live in Japan, the staff took care of writing the name in kanji for us (I had a photo of the recipient’s name in kanji). We chose express shipping and only paid 6.50 €, even though it was going to a pretty remote part of the Izu Peninsula. It was 4 PM, and the package would be delivered by 3 PM the next day (which it was). We didn’t have to pack anything—we just left our items, and the staff handled the rest. All of this in a surprisingly short amount of time.

For comparison, in France, to send a package to the south of the country, I had to pack it myself at the post office and paid 13.50 € for delivery in *at best* 7 days (and that was during the holiday season).

For treats, we tried a Chinese steamed bun restaurant—though it wasn’t *just* buns—and it was divine. The buns were freshly steamed, generously filled, and bursting with juice inside. A special shoutout to the tomato one (bright red color).



We also visited a fabulous, intimate tea salon run by two incredibly talented men: one handles the pastries, and the other the teas. The decor is soft and warm, all wood, with gentle music in the background. Seated around a counter, we watched the two work with fierce concentration and precision—it was truly an art. They gave us personalized advice on tea pairings for the desserts. The teas and pastries were divine, served in beautiful tableware. In short, a tea salon for gourmet epicureans.







In the evening, we wanted to go to Dai-dai, a restaurant recommended by the crepe vendor. Apparently, Dai-dai is well-known. Unfortunately, we struck out because we hadn’t made a reservation. Instead, we had the last regional specialty of this trip at another place. We tried *mizutaki*, a Japanese chicken and vegetable hot pot, sitting at the counter and chatting with a man in his fifties who had two dogs because, as he put it, "women are too complicated."

Epilogue

Third trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, and the pleasure remains intact with the desire to discover even more, perhaps another time... Kyushu is diverse and fascinating: a great mix of nature and city. And what amazing culinary discoveries! The prefectures of Saga and Nagasaki are very pleasant.

Thanks for your silent and/or active reading, whether it sparked the desire to explore this corner of the world or not...

Thanks for your story—it’s really inspiring! I’m planning a trip mostly in Kyushu this coming November, so there are lots of great discoveries and anecdotes in your post! Thanks

Hi Capucine,

Thanks for keeping me posted. Did any places catch your eye? I hope your trip in November goes smoothly. Using public transport really adds another layer to the journey.

Thanks for this story with such beautiful photos! 😊

Hi there! I’ve planned my itinerary using info from different forums and Facebook groups. I’ll be in Kyushu for almost my entire stay—25 days in November. I’m planning to travel slowly and only use public transport (ferries, buses, trains, etc.). It’s super exciting to plan, can’t wait... Have a great day everyone

Thanks for this story with such beautiful photos!

Sorry for the late reply, but thanks for reading. Glad you liked some of the photos.

🙂

Hi there! I planned my itinerary using info from different forums and Facebook groups. I’ll be in Kyushu for almost my entire stay—25 days in November. I’m planning to travel slowly and only use public transport (ferries, buses, trains, etc.). It’s quite something to organize, I can’t wait... Have a great day, everyone!

Sorry for the delayed reply. I’ll be following your trip with pleasure when you return. I haven’t used trains much in Japan yet, so I’m interested.

Planning a trip to Japan is definitely a source of joy. I’m right in the middle of it myself for an upcoming departure.

Happy planning and have a great day.

Meet-up in December... 😊

Hi there,

Sorry I just realized I never replied. Better late than never, right? So, I’ll catch up with you in December for your trip recap—I hope it’ll be everything you dreamed of, but I’ve no doubt Kyushu is amazing.

Thanks! I feel ready to go... 🍁🍁🍁