Don’t they say "never two without three"? It seems so. Here I am again on the forum to share—and let’s be honest, indulge a bit of selfish pleasure—by recounting the story of this third installment in the Land of the Rising Sun.
Where? It’s all in the title. On the island of Kyushu in southern Japan, more precisely in the northwest between Fukuoka and Nagasaki. I hope to take you along with me for 19 nights and 18 full days this autumn of 2024. On the itinerary: gastronomy, crafts, festivals, waterfalls, encounters, and leisurely strolls in all simplicity.
A last-minute flight booked just 7 days before departure, and the route evolved regularly based on whims and accommodation availability, eventually settling on this:
- 5 nights in Fukuoka: Fukuoka city, Ukiha, Itoshima, Dazaifu, Yanagawa
- 4 nights in Hasami, Nagasaki Prefecture: Okawachiyama, Arita, Takeo, Kashima, Yobuko, Karatsu, Kabeshima
- 6 nights in Nagasaki: Ureshino, Higashi-Sonogi, Nagasaki city, Unzen, Sotome
- 4 nights in Fukuoka: Karatsu, Fukuoka city
Most of the trip was done by car for practical reasons—easier access to certain places and freedom of movement—but also for the sheer joy of it. Despite slow traffic at times, driving in rural Japan is a delight.
If the program interests you, see you soon for the start of the journey.
Sounds great! I spent two weeks there two years ago, focusing on the island’s most touristy spots (Ibusuki, Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Kurokawa Onsen, etc.).
The places I liked the least were the cities (Fukuoka and Nagasaki), which I found had limited appeal.
Interesting! I spent two weeks there two years ago, focusing on the island’s most touristy spots (Ibusuki, Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Kurokawa-onsen, etc.).
The places I liked the least were the cities (Fukuoka and Nagasaki), which I found had limited appeal in my opinion.
Looking forward to reading your thoughts.
Hi Chaiwala,
Thanks for joining the trip—it’s great to have you!
How much we enjoy a place is always personal and depends, I think, on so many factors: the weather, everyone’s interests, the people we meet, the vibe at any given moment, what else we’ve seen, and so on...
I’ve also visited some of the places you mentioned to some extent (see travel journal), and for me, I’d say Nagasaki and Fukuoka have a different kind of appeal—not so much in terms of sights to visit, but more as cities to experience.
Nagasaki is really unique in its geography compared to other cities. As for Fukuoka, it’s a food paradise.
That said, after seeing Fukuoka and Nagasaki, I realized Tokyo is truly in a league of its own in Japan—and maybe even the world. Tokyo is Tokyo, an absolutely fantastic city. (Just to be clear, this doesn’t mean I didn’t enjoy Fukuoka and Nagasaki!)
Flight scheduled at 7:30 PM with the Korean low-cost airline TWAY AIR, with a layover in Seoul before taking another flight with the same airline to Fukuoka Airport.
At Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, we arrived early, but check-in wasn’t open yet, and the airline’s name wasn’t displayed. However, several people were already queuing in one spot. We joined them, unsure at first, but eventually asked the people in front and behind us. Good thing—everyone was heading to Seoul with TWAY AIR.
We waited... for a long time, moving forward at a snail’s pace. Some chats with other future passengers made the wait a bit more lively. Still, for many of us, including ourselves, it was our first time flying with this airline. It’s new at Paris Charles de Gaulle and offers attractive fares compared to current prices. But since it’s new, no one really knows how the airline operates. Is the meal included? For a long-haul flight, it seemed logical that it would be. Yet, others told us it wasn’t. Really!? That’s odd, given the flight duration. Well, we’d see later—right now, we just had to keep waiting to check in.
It was finally our turn. What’s usually a quick formality took much longer than expected. The airline’s computer system wasn’t working well, so the staff had to write everything by hand. That’s when the problems started. First, the attendant only found one of us in the system. Once that was resolved, I asked about our luggage to make sure we’d pick it up in Fukuoka, not Seoul. Turns out, our final destinations weren’t the same. The attendant had to redo everything and reissue the tickets.
Then came the seat issue. Half an hour later, everything was sorted—or so we thought—until we reached the boarding gate.
I got through without any issues. My travel companion, however, couldn’t. They were told he had already boarded. "Really? Impossible—I just got here." The security agent checked the tickets and, oh no, there was a mistake: both outbound tickets had been issued under the same name. We had to go back to check-in. "Listen, it’s complicated—we’ve already spent so much time here." Finally, the security agent called their supervisor, who let us through but said we’d have to sort it out with the flight attendants before boarding. Great...
After clearing security, we first looked for food so we wouldn’t starve. The problem? At airports—at least in France—the options are pretty dismal. What’s there? McDonald’s, Paul, a Japanese restaurant, and a French brasserie, all at outrageous prices for what you get.
We were waiting at Paul when I saw a woman return with a salad. I glanced at it out of curiosity since it wasn’t on display. Good thing I did—she was bringing it back because there was a huge cockroach in it (alive, I might add). Okay, well, that didn’t make me eager to eat there. So, we had to find something else, but there was nothing decent. We ended up with a few snacks from Relay, but you really couldn’t be picky. It was all pretty depressing. Especially since all the shops around were luxury brands. I think there’s a real disconnect between the food options and the stores—never mind that France is known for its gastronomy. You wouldn’t know it at the airport!
Anyway, our tickets were reissued, and this time everything looked good. Or so we thought... When it was time to board, there was another issue with my travel companion’s ticket—this time, the seat number didn’t match. So, we waited another 20 minutes (though we did chat with a really nice security agent) while the ticket was reissued yet again.
The good news? We weren’t supposed to be seated together, but in the end, we could be.
Once on the plane, we were already in Asia—the welcome was much warmer and friendlier.
The only notable difference during the flight was the meal. First off, it *was* included! While it only had the main course (no full tray from appetizer to dessert like with national airlines), the taste was there, and I’d even say it was good—I really enjoyed it!
As expected, there were no screens—or at least, the ones there didn’t work. We had a lot of sleep to catch up on, so that wasn’t an issue.
Another difference: the products for sale on the plane. You could find natural health products like royal jelly, zinc, and other items. While it might seem like a small detail, to me, it reflects a significant cultural difference in how some Asian countries, including South Korea, approach medicine.
Another cultural detail I noticed among the passengers: some Koreans came *prepared* for the flight. Almost everyone had toothbrushes or dental floss. I saw them line up one by one to brush their teeth in the restroom. Others were practically dressed for a pajama party, complete with slippers like they were at home.
We arrived in Seoul. Incheon Airport is large and modern.
Our layover was very short—only 2 hours—so no time to explore the airport or try a Korean restaurant. But we were hungry, so we stopped at Paris Baguette. The difference in food quality and options compared to Paris Charles de Gaulle was undeniable. There were well-stuffed sandwiches with fresh ingredients, appetizing salads, and delicious hot snacks. Plus, a wider variety of drinks with more original flavors. We tried a green mandarin drink, which was absolutely delicious. And the service was efficient, with reasonable prices—no more expensive than in France, but much better!
We hurried to the gate, but the flight ended up being about an hour late, giving us time to enjoy the sunset and watch the planes take off while savoring our snacks.
The flight to Fukuoka lasted 1 hour and 30 minutes. There was some turbulence, but we finally arrived back in Japan. Fukuoka Airport seemed pretty small, though we didn’t explore much. It was almost 8 PM, so we quickly bought two Nimoca cards for city travel. To get to the nearby city center, we took a free shuttle bus, which dropped us off at an orange Airport Line subway station. Two stops later, we were at Hakata Station.
The station was still quite lively, even though several shops were already closed. We discovered a dining area open until 11 PM or midnight.
It was already 8:30–9 PM, and we decided to eat right away since I knew there was nothing near our accommodation.
We opted for ramen. The restaurant offered luggage storage, so we left our big bags at the entrance and sat at the counter.
We enjoyed a Tonkotsu ramen, one of Fukuoka’s specialties. The broth was white, cloudy, and creamy, made from pork bones.
We paired it with a nice Sapporo beer.
After the meal, we walked to our accommodation, which was 15 minutes away from the station. Along the way, we saw our first "dressed" manhole cover. I’m not sure what the fire truck design refers to—usually, the decorations are related to the city’s history.
Accommodation prices were quite high at the last minute, even after checking daily for promotions and across different sites. We didn’t really have a choice on price. We opted for an apartment hotel with no on-site staff. It’s less fun than talking to people, but check-in was pretty simple. We discovered our place: a spacious 40 m² apartment with three double beds, a balcony, a bathtub-shower, a separate kitchen with a dishwasher, and even a washing machine with detergent. We were very comfortable.
The hotel lobby with a drink vending machine
The evening was already well underway, so we settled in and then went to buy a few things at the konbini around midnight. What a pleasure to be back at the konbini! Most 7-Elevens have self-checkout machines.
So great to be back on the forum and its friendly vibe.
Thanks for kicking off these reunions with a new travel journal—I’ll be following along with pleasure, even though my next trip next year will be more in the Tohoku region. I read your previous journals at the time and really liked your style and photography.
Just out of curiosity, how much did you pay for the flight ticket? (The airline seems 🤪.)
With tourism on the rise in Japan, booking accommodations well in advance seems essential if you want well-located places.
It's such a joy to be back on the forum and its friendly vibe.
Thanks for kicking off these reunions with a new travel journal—I’ll be following along with pleasure, even though my next trip next year will be to Tohoku instead. I read your previous journals at the time and really enjoyed your style and photography.
Just out of curiosity, how much did you pay for the flight ticket? (The airline seems .)
With tourism in Japan on the rise, booking accommodations well in advance seems essential if you want well-located places.
Hi Gérard,
It *is* really nice to be back on this forum.
Thanks for the kind words.
I remember you were torn between Tohoku and Kyushu. You’ve settled on Tohoku in the end—great choice, though the other would’ve been just as good.
I feel like Tohoku is gaining popularity, and it’s well-deserved because the region is stunning. A little selfishly, I hope it doesn’t get *too* popular.
What’s your planned itinerary for Tohoku, if you have one, and which season are you going in?
For the flight ticket, no secret here—I paid 970 €.
TWAY Air was great overall, aside from the boarding pass hassles. We were the only passengers who had that issue.
I’d fly with them again if the opportunity comes up, just being extra careful with the boarding passes.
As for bookings, there were better-located places available, but at a higher price. I think booking ahead is better for choice and, most importantly, the price.
I first discovered Japan in the spring with the classic Kyoto (or more precisely, Osaka for us) / Tokyo combo. Since then, I’ve been itching to go back to explore other areas, this time in the autumn.
Thanks so much for sharing this! It’s really inspiring—I’m keeping all the info for a solo trip next November... but I won’t be able to stay as long, and I’ll be getting around by public transport.
Hi Erel,
I’m thinking of heading to Japan in November 2025. I’ve heard you have to book accommodations way in advance!!
Did you book yours as you arrived in each place?
I can’t really picture booking everything ahead—it doesn’t leave much room for adventure!
Thanks in advance,
Solange
I traveled in November 2022 just after the Covid reopening.
I only used trains and buses. No need for a car.
I had booked everything in advance at the time.
I think it’s even more essential now with the high tourism levels.
What’s your planned itinerary for Tohoku if you have one, and what season again?
Hi Nathalie,
I’m leaving after Golden Week. My itinerary: Geibikei Gorge, Naruko Onsen, Ginzan Onsen (I’m worried I’ll be disappointed), Sendai, Matsushima, Yamadera, Aizuwakamatsu, the Tadami Line train, Nikko, and back via Haneda.
I’m also renting a car. Which rental company did you use?
I discovered Japan in the spring with the classic Kyoto (or more precisely Osaka for us) / Tokyo combo. Since then, I’ve been itching to go back to explore other areas, this time in autumn.
Thanks for joining the journey—I hope you enjoy reading!
Returning to Japan, almost a must
From what I gathered from a ground hostess we talked to, the airline has been around for about ten years but has only been flying from France since late August 2024.
Thanks for sharing this! It’s really inspiring—I’ll keep the info safe for a solo trip next November... though I won’t be able to stay as long and I’ll be getting around by public transport.
Thanks
Hi Capucine33, and welcome!
Thank you for your kind words.
If this travel journal can provide an escape and even help others, that’s even better. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate.
Are you planning to visit Kyushu next year?
Everyone travels for as long as they can.
As for public transport, it’s a well-developed system in Japan—no reason not to use it.
Hello Erel,
I'm considering going to Japan in November 2025. I've heard that you need to book accommodations well in advance!!
Did you book them as you arrived in each place?
I can't imagine booking them ahead—it doesn’t leave much room for adventure!
Thanks in advance,
Solange
Hello Mahayana,
Thanks for your interest.
Regarding accommodations, it’s entirely possible not to book them in advance. However, there are several constraints that can arise:
- Depending on the travel period, if it's a peak time (Golden Week, festival season), there might be no accommodations left if you're looking for a specific area, or the choice could be very limited—plus the prices might not be as good.
- On-site, managing bookings takes time away from your trip. Also, in Japan, you can’t just "show up" at a hotel the same day to ask for a room; it’s best to call at least the day before or in the morning at the very least.
If these constraints aren’t a dealbreaker, then it’s possible to travel without booking.
While I wouldn’t even consider booking for many other destinations, I have to say that planning accommodations in advance for Japan can save precious time, given all the activities you can do there—days never seem long enough!
Did you book as you arrived in each place?
For my part, I used well-known international booking apps with free cancellation options. This gave me the security of having a place to stay while still allowing me to change my itinerary—and that’s exactly what I did. It also sometimes helped me find better deals in terms of price, location, or comfort.
So, it can be a good compromise for keeping that sense of adventure. Besides, I think adventure can also come from meeting people on-site and going with the flow each day, even if your itinerary is more or less set. But that’s just my personal take.
It’s up to you to see what works best for you.
Another question... did you rent a car with a driver?
No, and I wouldn’t even dare imagine the cost that could represent!
Japan isn’t a Southeast Asian country. In terms of standard of living, even though the yen’s value against the euro is lower right now, Japan remains a developed country.
Also, there’s no need for a driver. You just need a license (French license + Japanese translation to be done at the JAF in Japan or through an agency in France). Apart from driving on the left, the signage is understandable, the roads are in good condition, everything is safe, and on top of that, people drive slowly and the Japanese are calm on the roads.
I traveled only by train and bus. No need for a car.
It depends on where you want to go. Some areas are hard to reach by public transport, even if it's well developed.
A car also gives you more freedom with schedules.
In big cities, a car is obviously useless. Long trips like Tokyo to Kyoto also don’t make sense by car. But for visiting Iya Valley in Shikoku, reaching Takachiho Falls in Kyushu, or getting around Yakushima, a car is much more practical.
What’s your planned itinerary if you have one for Tohoku, and what season again?
Hi Nathalie,
Departure after Golden Week. Itinerary: Geibikei Gorge, Naruko Onsen, Ginzan Onsen (I’m afraid I might be disappointed), Sendai, Matsushima, Yamadera, Aizuwakamatsu, the Tadami Line train, Nikko, and return via Haneda.
That’s a really nice program for Tohoku. I’d be curious to read your travel journal afterward.
For Ginzan Onsen, I had planned to go last year—at least to pass through since it was too late to find accommodation—but in the end, time got away from us, and it was pouring rain, so we gave up. Still, the area seemed stunning, and some travelers on the forum might confirm that from experience.
I’m also renting a car. Which rental company did you use?
For Tohoku last year, I went through Tocoo. https://www2.tocoo.jp/en/
They work with several local car rental agencies.
You could also go through Book.... or directly with agencies on-site. Some travelers mentioned on this forum or others that they rented directly from a local agency. Maybe avoid doing that during peak tourist season.
After a good night's sleep adjusting to the time difference, we started our first vacation day in the late morning.
It’s October 29th, and while it’s autumn here, Japanese autumn feels like an Indian summer in France to me. Even though the sky was gray, the weather was very pleasant. Throughout the trip, the temperature hovered between 19 and 24 degrees in the shade, so it actually felt warmer. I could wear dresses and open-toed shoes without getting cold, even late at night around midnight. There were a few cooler days where a light cardigan came in handy, as well as some rainy days, but overall, the climate was really nice.
Deciding to walk to the station, we took the opportunity to explore our neighborhood in daylight. It’s a residential area—aside from a 7-Eleven just steps away and a retro barber shop on the main perpendicular avenue, there weren’t any stores. However, we did find a small wooden shrine.
We walked toward Hakata Station as planned, crossing the Mikasa River. From the bridge, we spotted enormous koi carp—almost like catfish. Turtles were also lounging peacefully along the riverbank.
Once at the station, we decided to eat early. While it’s not always easy to find restaurants open late (after 2 PM or 8/9 PM) in some areas, especially rural ones, eating at 11 or 11:30 AM isn’t a problem in Japan.
We settled on a sushi restaurant. Sushi—or raw fish in general—is one of the things we miss most about Japan. Based on our experiences, we’d say you can’t truly know what sushi is until you’ve had it in Japan. Some might say that’s the tourist in me idealizing Japan… And sure, you can probably find good sushi in France, but overall, the fish isn’t the same, freshness is key to quality, and the way the fish is cut and the rice is prepared makes sushi one of those dishes that, in my opinion, is best enjoyed in Japan. I’d love to hear your thoughts or experiences on this!
Back to the meal. We loved the warm, understated decor, the gentle and attentive service, the unlimited hot tea included with the meal, and the appetizing presentation of the dishes.
A chawanmushi, a small savory custard. What’s fun is that it tastes different at every restaurant.
Assortment of sashimi with different types of tuna, varying in fat content.
After finishing our meal, we took our time before leaving when one of the servers brought us a gift from the chef—fried fish bones. I think we got this treat thanks to the few Japanese words we used to communicate.
So there we were, facing a plate of tiny fried fish bones with the chef watching us… When it’s time to dig in, you just go for it! We tried them, and oh, they were good! Crunchy, salty, and not greasy—like little appetizer crackers. We thanked the chef again, smiled, and told him it was delicious… in Japanese, of course.
After our good meal, and since we’re at the station, we take the opportunity to explore the Deitos shopping arcade we spotted yesterday but was closed.
It’s mainly divided into two parts:
- A section dedicated to food, where you can find regional specialties (super practical for souvenir shopping) as well as everyday groceries (supermarket, takeaway stalls with different dishes like yakitori, rice, pastries, etc.).
- A smaller section with leather goods, tableware, and more.
Strolling through is a great way to discover local and seasonal products, like sweets made from sweet potatoes or mentaiko, which alone takes up a huge amount of shelf space. 60% of Japan’s production of this culinary specialty comes from Fukuoka (Hakata), so it’s a must-try!
During our stay, we even saw restaurants dedicated to this specialty that we’ll get to taste.
But what *is* mentaiko? Well, it’s cod or pollock roe—fully formed fish eggs. The eggs are salted, seasoned with spices like red pepper, and then fermented. The end result is an orange-pink color. Flavor-wise, it’s salty, spicy, and slightly sweet. It’s enjoyed in different forms—raw or as a side dish, for example.
This specialty from Fukuoka, particularly the Hakata district, actually originates from South Korea, specifically Busan, which is just a 3-hour ferry ride from Fukuoka. It was introduced to Japan by Korean immigrants starting in the 1950s. The Hakata area developed a variant called *Karashi Mentaiko*, made from cod roe marinated in chili sauce. It’s usually eaten with a bowl of rice.
There are also some surprising finds, like this face mask made from local strawberries (Ito Kingu strawberries, according to Google Translate).
We also love the delicate pastries, like this chick-shaped cake in autumn colors. It’s called *Autumn Hiyoko*—another Fukuoka specialty dating back to 1912. *Hiyoko* was the name of the cake’s creator.
There’s also a fish market inside the station. We got to see a 100 kg bluefin tuna caught that day in Uwajima, displayed for everyone to admire. It was quite the attraction!
Another culinary surprise was waiting just a few steps away.
A small crowd gathered in front of a supermarket caught our attention. We went over and found a bin full of wagyu. People kept stopping to look and grab some. We love wagyu, so we lingered to drool a little. We asked a woman where it was from—Kumamoto. Got it. I noticed a label I couldn’t read but saw the interest it sparked, so I wondered if it was on sale. I asked the nearby staff, and she confirmed it was a promo. Good to know! She added it was only for today and not guaranteed for other days. Well, okay then—we’ll take some today. It’ll cost less than at a yakiniku restaurant. We opted for ribeye at 3000 yen instead of the usual 3300 yen, roughly 19.60 €.
But at checkout (our basket had other items too), we paid without thinking much about the total. A few moments later, we thought, *Hmm, that seems off*—I think the cashier made a mistake. We checked the receipt and got a nice surprise: there was a promo on top of the promo, bringing the ribeye down to 1500 yen instead of 3000 yen. What a great start to the trip!
At the supermarket, the impressive selection of miso sauces always amazes me. Here’s a small preview.
The stroll continues. In the center, there’s a pleasant green relaxation area and even a kind of lottery. Many Japanese people were queuing with a ticket to spin a wheel. I don’t know what the prize was, but it seemed like a fun little event.
Don’t forget the bakery corner with French touches—Breton, even...
After this stroll, we spent a good chunk of time on our usual Japan arrival ritual: hunting for Japanese liposomal vitamin C. We’d already scoped out some "shops"—usually medical clinics. For this, we asked the tourist office to help us locate one in Fukuoka. Then we headed to what seemed like the easiest spot. Normally, it’s no problem, but this time it was trickier. We relied on the friendly help of everyone we met along the way. After two clinics that didn’t have it, another trip to the tourist office, and a bit of a maze-like walk through a Uniqlo store, we finally reached Raffles Medical Clinic, located in the Kitte building accessible from the other side of the station.
Though the staff seemed both surprised and a bit concerned to see two Westerners show up, we were welcomed (with that lovely, gentle service) by two young women, later joined by a third, not counting the receptionist, to help us get the product we wanted. It was displayed in a small locked case at the reception, so it wasn’t hard to make ourselves understood. Since both the wagyu and the vitamin C needed to stay chilled, we headed back to the apartment.
At least the bakery is correctly written in French. I noticed that some shops trying to sound French have literally translated their names, which results in some pretty surprising ones.
Otherwise, we also came across this Breton specialty:
Juillet 2010 : La Dolce Vita / Costa Concordia
Février 2018 : Perle des Caraïbes / Costa Pacifica
I’d noticed that some shops trying to sound French end up with some pretty surprising names from literal translations.
That’s what we call Franglais—but in this case, *franponais*!
There are *tons* of examples, and some are just hilarious.
There are even books dedicated to it.
At least for the bakery, it's correctly written in French. I noticed that some shops trying to sound French have literally translated names, which results in some pretty surprising ones.
Otherwise, we also came across this Breton specialty:
Yeah, indeed—examples of *franponais* (Franglais) can be found just about everywhere. The same thing exists in some African countries too.
I noticed that some shops trying to be French translated things literally, which led to some pretty surprising names.
It’s not just shops—clothes, accessories, decor, etc., too.
I actually have a little collection of *franponais* clothes. My favorite piece? A sweatshirt that says "Have some parsley. Make mistakes, but make them with enthusiasm."😂
After dropping off our things, we head out for a walk. As is typical when visiting Fukuoka, we make our way to a famous shopping center.
To get there, we have to go back through the station. At that moment, I spot a treat I particularly love—a daifuku mochi. I step closer to take a look, and just then, one of the vendors is putting up a sign saying "everything 50% off." Perfect timing for a little sweet snack.
When the sign goes up, a crowd rushes toward the small shop. I figure there won’t be much left in no time.
On the other side of the station is actually the main entrance, with "Hakata Station" written in large letters.
It’s around 6 PM. It’s dark and mild—really pleasant. On the street we’re walking down, I notice, for the first time on any of my trips, benches installed on the sidewalk along with flowers. It’s a nice touch to brighten things up. We take advantage of these rare benches to quietly enjoy our sweet snack.
A little later, at an intersection, I’m unsure which way to go.
I take the opportunity while waiting at a crosswalk to ask a young man who doesn’t react. Fortunately, one of his friends hears me. These guys are part of a small group of coworkers who are already a little tipsy. Two of them take my request seriously and look it up online because the name "Canal City" doesn’t seem familiar to them. Surprising. They point us to a street on the right. At the sound of the crosswalk signal, we move forward and part ways with a wave.
Five minutes later, we hear a noise. We turn around—it’s the two young men running after us, laughing. *Gomen nasai*, it’s not the right way. Follow us, we’ll show you. *Ok, daisobu desu.* They had passed a sign for the shopping center and realized they’d given us the wrong directions, so they rushed to catch up and let us know.
A kind gesture that, while no longer surprising, still impresses us with its spontaneity and how often it happens. Chatting a bit, we learn they’d gone for drinks together after work and had some beer. They work in the area.
After the usual thanks and goodbyes, we continue on and enter Canal City shopping center.
It’s a mall we’ll especially remember for its unique, colorful curved architecture, where you can enjoy a free water and light show that’s pretty cool.
There’s also a floor dedicated to ramen. We have some, along with slices of pork. Tasty and cheap.
There’s also a movie theater.
And the last thing that caught our curiosity: photo booths for teenagers. An entire space dedicated to beautifying photobooths, very girly.
We then leave the shopping center to stroll along the canal. Right in front of the mall, there’s a food truck area with lots of dining options. It’s popular with young Japanese people.
Not far from there, there are also the famous *yatai*, mobile food stalls. The vibe is busy—lots of people, touts... It felt like a tourist trap to me. We won’t eat there today or any other day.
We then walk through a livelier, more festive neighborhood: Nakasu. A few neon lights and big screens, lots of young people, bars—basically a nightlife hub.
To get back to our place, we take the canal, where a peaceful calm reigns.
We’ll notice several times during the trip that it’s not just the Chinese who do construction at night—Japanese construction workers do too.
The Tenjin district is also lively and decorated with Christmas lights.
We stop at a Don Quijote store that’s open 24/7. Despite the late hour, it’s packed. You’d better not be claustrophobic if you want to shop at Don Quijote—just a heads-up. On the other hand, you can find a huge variety of products, from dishes to cosmetics, clothes, and even pharmacy items...
At midnight, there are still people shopping at the supermarket. We take advantage of it too. While using the restroom, a poster catches my eye: *Stop taking upskirt photos!*
Tenjin is also full of *yatai* scattered in different streets, which seem more local and less like tourist traps.
Good to know: the restrooms in convenience stores (*konbini*) in nightlife areas are often closed at night.
The walk back to the apartment is a bit long since it’s a bit out of the way, but it’s really nice to walk through the streets in complete peace.
Early in the morning, we pick up the car we reserved for two weeks. Everything goes very smoothly, even though I’d say the welcome was quite cold.
New development: the GPS doesn’t work with the phone number (no luck, it’s the second time this has happened), but good news—Google search is integrated. It’ll be super easy to use and really handy, especially when you want to change plans but don’t have internet and thus no phone number.
The plan for the day is to visit a few spots in the city of Itoshima, about an hour away.
To get there, we need to leave Fukuoka. The drive gives us a better sense of how sprawling the city is. However, traffic isn’t heavy, so it’s manageable, though there are still quite a few red lights.
Once out of Fukuoka, the road is really pleasant, with the sea on the right and the forest on the left at times. Plus, the weather is sunny, which makes the scenery even more enjoyable.
Itoshima is actually quite spread out, and the different spots we want to see are scattered around. I’d say a car is recommended to make the most of it. Our first stop of the day is a temple, and the last stretch to get there is on a winding mountain road that exudes tranquility. We’re the second car there—no crowds yet.
Here we are at the Buddhist temple Raizan Sennyo-ji Daihōin.
It’s located at nearly 1000 meters above sea level on the slope of Mount Raiyama.
It’s said to have been founded by a monk from India in 178, but the current temple was only established in the mid-18th century to pray for good fortune and ward off bad luck, among other things.
The visit was free.
As soon as we enter the temple, we’re struck by the beauty of the magnificent and impressive 400-year-old maple tree. We don’t get to see it with its reddening leaves, but even fully green, the tree is stunning. It radiates an incredible sense of zen. You just want to lie down under it and soak up its calming benefits.
We continue the visit, which includes several small temples, a garden of stone pilgrim statues, and a staircase leading to the inner temple. We won’t be going inside for that.
Even though it’s still a bit early for *koyo* (30/10), there are already a few red patches here and there, giving a very pleasant autumnal vibe.
Plus, we enjoy a visit with very few other visitors, even though we notice the parking lot fills up by the time we leave.
We really loved this visit—the charm of temples tucked away in the Japanese mountains is not to be missed.
We get back in the car and head this time to Shiraito Falls, which we reach easily in 30 minutes with a photo stop for some lovely rice fields in the countryside.
Although we had the turn-off and had to make a U-turn on a very narrow mountain road that wasn’t busy, the waterfall is easily accessible. There are several parking lots. In front of the falls, a few restaurants serve noodles (nagashi somen) and grilled fish, among other things.
The waterfall is 24 meters high and has a nice flow. The closer you get, the more water droplets spray your face. Refreshing!
You can also fish by renting equipment.
After this pleasant visit, we get back in the car to go to a nearby café I’d spotted on Google Maps. Everything here is written in Japanese, but it’s busy, and we quickly understand why—rightly so. From what I’d seen, I thought we could grab a drink on a platform extending into nature with a panoramic view. But an even more interesting adventure awaits us.
We order some homemade quiches, desserts, and drinks.
I have to say, it took us a while to figure out what to do since everything is in Japanese. We see folding chairs and hammocks in a locker but don’t see anyone using them on the terrace. Then, after a few minutes of confusion, we realize we’re supposed to take a chair or hammock each and head into the forest with it.
While my partner waits for our food, I’m tasked with setting up our spot. I take the dirt path, which is steep and has no visibility. Then, surprise—there are wooden terraces scattered throughout the forest where you can settle in. They’re at different tree levels. I choose one that’s more secluded but requires more effort to reach because you have to go down and then back up. The hammocks aren’t light, but I make it up there. What a place! I think the concept is incredibly cool. You sway with the trees and the wind. A real recharge!
My companion discovers the spot later. He first has to find me before sharing my enthusiasm for this amazing place.
We enjoy a forest bath accompanied by treats served in a pretty wicker basket. The food is good. We especially loved the shiso and ginger drinks, as well as the sweet potato cake.
Even though the forest café is perfect for endless relaxation, we leave the spot.
Our goal is to see a bridge. We head that way, but our GPS takes us onto a mountain road where nature has reclaimed its space. Worried about the rental car, we decide to turn back and give up on the bridge idea.
We head to Hakoshima Shrine, a tiny sanctuary island. There’s no designated parking, but luckily, there’s a spot right in front of a house. The entrance is super discreet, but the place is really cute. The island is super small—you just cross the torii marking its entrance,
...climb up a tiny bit, and boom—you’re right in front of the altar.
While the altar itself isn’t anything special, the view of the sea and the long adjacent beach through the pine trees is lovely.
We make a quick stop at Keya Beach, but the weather’s not cooperating—it’s pretty windy and less sunny, so we don’t linger. Next up: Totoro Forest. It’s not the one that inspired the director but rather a nickname. The wind hits the forest from all sides, forcing the trees to grow in a dome shape, which supposedly resembles the forest in *My Neighbor Totoro*.
Either way, it’s *windy*. We soak up some seriously fresh sea air. The nature here is wilder, with the black, volcanic look of the pebble beach.
It’s a bit of a climb to enter the forest, which forms a tunnel before opening up to a small platform with a clear view of the sea.
To wrap up the day, we head to Futamigaura Beach, a famous Instagram spot for its floating torii and the "married rocks."
It’s touristy—all the parking lots are paid.
Still, the place is stunning, especially at sunset. It’s so peaceful.
On the way back, we stop at a little shop we spotted earlier. It’s a café-store offering food and local products. We pick up some freshly grated wasabi and small farm-fresh milk creams.
The afternoon’s winding down. We’ve got about a 1.5-hour drive back to Fukuoka. We’ll grab an early dinner on the road before heading back to the apartment.
We really loved Itoshima and would love to come back to explore even more. It’s vast and packed with breathtaking natural spots.
Today, we headed to the town of Ukiha, which is in Fukuoka Prefecture but not far from Oita Prefecture. We chose not to take the highways, but that day, the journey felt quite long. While it's true that the speed limit is low, the straight roads combined with numerous traffic lights reinforced that feeling of slowness. But what stood out the most was the "gloominess" of the towns we passed through, amplified by a very gray sky that day. There was a lot of urbanization without any harmony, little greenery, and lots of wires. It felt like we were driving through dull suburban towns rather than countryside villages.
A few images all the same:
of a patch of countryside,
and of a bus stop
Arriving in Ukiha, we felt, all things considered, the same disappointment. We thought we’d find a charming little town, but it seemed rather ordinary.
The small area with a few shopping streets isn’t very extensive. A few streets, including one on a road heavily used by drivers. The streets are empty or nearly so. Most shops are closed. This makes me think it might be more interesting to visit on a weekend than on a weekday. Maybe with more activity, the town would have seemed more pleasant.
We tried to find the tourist office but without GPS, it was a bit difficult. A Korean person we asked for help on the street gave us some directions. She had spent a night in the town. When we asked what she thought of it, after a brief moment of reflection, she replied: "It’s small, but it’s okay." Well, clearly, she wasn’t blown away either.
We continued but couldn’t find it. I had my doubts and asked a man who was repairing something near a door. The Korean person had mentioned turning near the hospital, so I asked for directions to the hospital. The Japanese man gave us some instructions, but he saw we weren’t entirely clear, so thinking we were sick, he asked us to wait and came back with his bag to accompany us. Worried about wasting his time, I explained that we weren’t sick and re-explained what we were looking for. We eventually understood each other, and luckily, because we had to turn back. Still, it was a nice opportunity to chat a bit more. This pleasant exchange brought a little sunshine to our visit. We continued on our way, exploring the other small streets, which were just as deserted but cuter.
We gave up on finding the tourist office and visited a shop selling glassware. It was very pretty, but the prices were steep—bordering on exorbitant—due to our lack of knowledge about the average cost of this kind of handcrafted work.
For a little anecdote, the shop door was closed when we entered. There was no one inside, but the saleswoman came in through the same door right after us. We had seen her just before entering—she was getting on her bike. We thought the shop was closed and that she had come back because she saw us. We didn’t realize it was closed; otherwise, we wouldn’t have gone in. But once again, it was a chance to appreciate the Japanese delicacy that refrains from any harsh or unpleasant remarks to say the shop is closed... no, nothing at all, not a word—just a smile and a warm Japanese welcome.
We decided to return to the car, which was parked in the lot of a drugstore. A quick stop at the restroom before hitting the road again. The restrooms were outside the store. When I came out, my companion was deep in conversation with one of the cashiers. He was 20 years old and from Hiroshima, which, according to him, is the most beautiful city in Japan. He’d like to visit Italy someday...
We got back on the road, and in less than 10 minutes, we reached the entrance to Ukiha Inari Shrine.
There’s a climbing path with 91 torii gates and a clear view of the valley. It’s really nice, and on top of that, there were very few people. We only crossed paths with four people.
Behind the shrine, there’s also a bamboo forest and several walking trails. We wanted to take another path to go back down to the car, but it was inaccessible.
Given the long drive, we take the car back to Fukuoka.
It’s still too early for dinner, so we treat ourselves to a little snack break at the station. We try the Umegae mochi, a specialty from Dazaifu. It’s a lightly grilled mochi with sweet red bean paste. It’s warm and delicious.
Tonight, we’re in the mood to try another local dish. We head to the recommended restaurant at Hakata Station.
The station’s dining hall is buzzing with life. People are chatting, eating, and drinking beer in a lively and friendly atmosphere.
Motsunabe is a hot pot with tripe. Don’t let the word "tripe" put you off—just try it! This dish is a flavor explosion. It’s rich, creamy, and smooth. It comes with sides: horse sashimi and condiments (sesame, fleur de sel, chives), seasoned chicken salad, tripe thinly sliced with yuzu, and a delicate mashed potato, not to mention mentaiko and a choice of rice or udon. We went with the udon, and it was amazing. The udon were a bit thick but still firm and melt-in-your-mouth.
The small area with a few shopping streets isn’t very big. A few streets, including one on a road that’s quite busy with cars. The streets are empty or nearly so. Most shops are closed. Which makes me think it might be more interesting to visit on a weekend than a weekday. Maybe with more activities, the town would have seemed more appealing.
It’s not very lively on weekends either, even during festival season (I took part in the city’s Yosakoi fire festival every year, and outside the stage areas, it was quiet). Also, many shops and restaurants *look* closed from the outside, but they’re not. You just have to push the doors—but that’s not always easy.
Otherwise, in Yame, what you really should see are the tea plantations. There are breathtaking landscapes around the village of Hoshinomura, and plenty of activities centered around this drink. The city is also famous for its fruit, and fruit picking is a popular local activity. And of course, there’s the Inari shrine.
The small area with a few shopping streets isn't very large. A few streets, including one on a road that's quite busy with cars. The streets are empty or nearly so. Most of the shops are closed. This makes me think it might be more interesting to visit on a weekend than on a weekday. Maybe with more activities, the town would have seemed more appealing.
It's not very lively on weekends either, even during festival season (I took part in the city's Yosakoi fire festival every year, and outside the areas near the stages, it was quiet). Also, many shops and restaurants *look* closed from the outside, but they're not. You have to know to push the doors, but that's not always easy.
It's true that it's not always easy to tell if something's open or not. I tried opening two, and the shops were indeed closed. That probably wasn't the case for all of them.
Otherwise, in Yame, what you really need to see are the tea plantations. There are breathtaking landscapes around the village of Hoshinomura and plenty of activities related to this drink. The city is also well-known for its fruit, and fruit picking is a popular local activity.
I had planned to go but changed our plans during the trip. Initially, we were supposed to spend 4 or 5 more days in Fukuoka Prefecture. However, the drive through the countryside toward Ukiha and then Yanagawa from Fukuoka didn't appeal to us, and we also really enjoyed our next stops. So, we followed our instincts and didn’t feel obligated to stick to the original plan. Our choices forced us to drop Yame from the itinerary, but I’ll keep it for a future trip in the region.
Fruit picking is famous in quite a few places, but I haven’t had the chance to try it yet.
The weather isn’t great today. It starts pouring just as we leave.
We decide to visit the famous Shinto shrine Dazaifu Tenmangu. As usual, we stop at a konbini first for breakfast. We can’t resist the fried chicken from these little convenience stores. We also take the chance to buy clear umbrellas since the rainy weather seems like it’s going to stick around for a while.
The trip to the temple isn’t much more interesting than yesterday.
When we arrive, there are crowds of small parking lots, all paid and with varying prices depending on how close they are to the entrance and how long you park. Two older gentlemen warmly invite us to park in their lots. The welcome is very friendly and attentive—they take care to guide you carefully into the limited space. No surprises: the parking conditions and price are clearly explained upfront. Here, it’s 300 yen for 2 hours, and each additional half-hour costs 100 yen, if I remember correctly. They also lend umbrellas for free if needed.
To our surprise, this shrine isn’t paid entry.
The shrine is dedicated to Sugawara Michizane, or Tenjin, the deity of studies, culture, and the arts.
I was expecting crowds, but even though there are people, it’s manageable. Maybe the weather helped.
Inside the grounds, we arrive at the end of a ceremony for grandchildren. Other, older children are rushing to buy good-luck charms.
I really hesitated about coming, but I didn’t regret it. The place is vast and pleasant. Between water features, a small bridge, flower displays (chrysanthemums), traditional Japanese buildings with exhibits on architecture and its various uses in Japanese life, a museum—the site is full of interest, quite the opposite. Plus, visiting in the rain (which had almost stopped, just a light drizzle) gives it a timeless atmosphere.
The architecture exhibit "With Others" is in a beautiful wooden building made of wood and rice. A soft, comforting warmth emanates from the place. The visit is worth it as much for the exhibit as for the space itself. You explore it in socks.
Not everything is understandable since some documents are in Japanese, but it’s still interesting and broadly comprehensible even if you don’t speak Japanese—there are lots of objects and documents you can touch and look through. Very hands-on.
You can walk around the building, move from room to room, and take the time to sit and contemplate the garden.
We make a quick stop at the Kyushu National Museum, but due to limited parking time, we give up on visiting it properly. We settle for the free-access ground floor, checking out the exhibit on the different cultural arts of Asian lands.
The exterior and interior of the museum building are very modern.
At the museum entrance, there’s an umbrella parking area with individual locks.
We finish the visit by exploring the shopping streets with all sorts of varied shops. The atmosphere is friendly.
We even spot what looked like trash cans.
One of the main goals of the day was the evening in Yanagawa. But first, we wanted to visit a garden, the Kiyomizudera Honbo Garden. The journey there left me just as puzzled. Within minutes, though, we went from an unappealing urban environment to a tropical forest setting, arriving at the garden’s entrance. With the light rain falling, the feeling of being transported into the heart of the wild nature was particularly strong.
However, it was surprising to see no cars in the parking lot. We took the path that plunged us even deeper into a kind of "Amazon," with the sound of birds and the rushing water of rivers—it really felt like we were in the middle of a jungle.
We reached the garden without any trouble. Everything was well signposted, but no doors were open. I knocked and called out several times, thinking maybe it was open but the doors had been closed because of the rain... We walked around to another building, but unfortunately, this place, which seemed splendid and magical, wouldn’t open its doors to us—much to my disappointment. It’s supposed to be open, though.
As a consolation, we continued a little further along the "jungle" path. There’s a very interesting hiking area here that I think is worth exploring. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time for it. We got back in the car and headed to Yanagawa.
Yes, because the goal of the day was to attend the Yanagawa Hakushi Matsuri festival, which celebrates the death of the poet Kitahara Hakushu (1885–1942), a native of the city.
The GPS led us to some canals in the city, but they weren’t the right ones. Since we had no internet and no precise address, we had to ask people for directions several times—it was hard to understand everything at once. Eventually, we arrived at a small parking lot. It was already nearly dark, and there was no sign of life. The shop in the parking lot was about to close. We asked one of the staff, who explained that it was a little further away. We walked quickly and then heard noise—we’d found the right canal. Preparations were underway.
The festival involves a 2- to 3-hour boat tour where a meal is shared. The boats are lit by lanterns. You have to book nearly a year in advance. Of course, we didn’t have a spot, but we came to watch the departure.
The rain had probably delayed the start because there was almost no one in the boats when we arrived.
It took a good half-hour, maybe a little more, for everyone to get settled, the meals to be served, and the boatmen to be ready to navigate these lucky participants. Though with the rain, I’m not sure they felt so lucky after all.
A few onlookers, mostly Japanese, were there like us to cheer on the participants. At this small festival with no crowds, we met another foreign couple—Australians who had come to Japan for two weeks and, like us, were here to see this matsuri.
Under the rain, which had finally stopped, the first boatman launched the departure with cheerful hearts. The participants clinked beers. Kanpai!
They passed under a bridge where a beauty queen and journalists were covering the event. It’s a charming, laid-back festival.
Along the canal, there were a few shops we didn’t have time to visit.
There was a small souvenir shop selling local products, nicely decorated.
Once the boats were launched, we left them to glide poetically and headed back to Fukuoka.
We ended the evening at the apartment, preparing a nice meal with the wagyu we’d bought on sale a few days earlier, some seasoned rice, and small asparagus. Tomorrow, we leave Fukuoka.
As we were getting ready to leave our accommodation and Fukuoka, a loud alarm started blaring with a man speaking. It was in Japanese, so we didn’t understand.
There were still 20 minutes before our departure time. A strange idea crossed our minds—that this alarm might be a reminder that we’d be leaving soon. So, we ignored it and continued getting ready. However, it went off again with the same message. The alarm was worrying, so I decided to use the voice translator... The message said, "There is a fire, please evacuate without taking any of your belongings." I opened the apartment door, and on the landing, other people were on alert.
A few minutes later, we were downstairs with the other residents. Some French travelers with a relative living in Tokyo were there. We chatted while waiting.
The emergency services arrived and intervened quickly—2 fire trucks and a security officer’s car. In the end, it turned out to be a false alarm.
We were able to go back and finish getting ready, but it had taken about an hour.
Later that morning, we hit the road toward Hasami. Since a typhoon was passing through the area that day, our plan to go to Karatsu was postponed. The sky was gray, and it was raining, but there wasn’t as much wind as expected. The sea was a bit choppy, and the water was murky.
I was a little nervous about driving with a typhoon warning, but everything went smoothly.
Along the way, we decided to stop at a random restaurant in a rural area. We didn’t know what they served, but we were about to find out. It was a small, unpretentious place—I love those. An old-school restaurant run by a couple, simple, family-friendly, and relaxed.
Cute little chairs for toddlers.
We partly chose our meal by copying an elderly couple eating there.
We enjoyed a delicious katsudon (a bowl of rice topped with a breaded and fried pork cutlet, simmered in a savory sauce with eggs) and zaru soba (cold buckwheat noodles served with a dipping sauce called tsuyu. You add finely chopped green onions and wasabi to the tsuyu for flavor and spice. Thin strips of nori are often placed on the noodles when serving).
The meal came with unlimited hot green tea, which is common in many restaurants.
As for the bill, it was 13 € for two. A really great deal.
We hit the road again. We make a quick stop at a small shrine, then drive on toward Hasami.
Spotting the sign for Okawachiyama, a tiny pottery village nestled in the mountains, we decide to swing by before heading to our hotel. We hesitate a bit since the afternoon is already well underway and the weather isn’t great—gray skies and a light drizzle.
In the end, it turns out to be a real hidden gem.
The village sits at the foot of the mountain, and the rain gives it a mystical, misty vibe that’s really charming. Pottery is everywhere, starting right at the bridge. Once we park, it’s just a matter of strolling from one pottery shop to another. What might sound boring is actually a magical walk through the art of ceramics. Each store has its own unique style. Most of the shopkeepers are artists who work with their families and are happy to share insights about their craft.
Price-wise, there’s a wide range, but let’s be clear—this is art, and it’s not cheap. These are almost collector’s items.
Two collections really caught my eye. They had a modern style but blew me away with their elegance and beauty. One was matte pottery featuring seasonal fruits and vegetables at the center of a flat plate. Then there were these small, matte, water-blue dishes. And finally, those individual chopstick rests that, when put together, form a flower with its delicate pistils—so poetic.
No matter where you are, the mountain is always visible. Today, you can hear the river rushing by.
Another stop higher up the street left a lasting impression—not just because of the ceramics. From the moment you step into this house, you feel at ease. Special care is given to the cute, flower-filled garden. At the door, there’s more decor, including a tengu. The shop itself is small but well-stocked, featuring light duck-blue ceramics. The shop is run by a grandmother who could just as well be a florist. You can tell she loves flowers. From her tiny outdoor space, she can see the mountain, where the water for her pond comes from and which her husband uses to make their pottery.
The largest pieces are in their living room. You have to take off your shoes to see them. Family photos are scattered here and there.
A few pieces caught my attention. We talked about the price, and when I thought I understood the amount, I went to buy one—but she quickly corrected my mistake. While I was putting my shoes back on and apologizing for the misunderstanding, we kept chatting. As I was about to leave, I lingered a bit in the first room, where she showed me the raw material used for the ceramics, letting me feel how porous it was. Then, suddenly, she went to fetch one of her vases that had been soaking in her pond with flowers. She emptied it and told me she’d like to give it to me as a gift. But first, she asked if I’d mind since it had a slight crack on one side. Surprised by her gesture, I of course said it was no problem and happily accepted her gift. She wrapped it up just like she would have if I’d bought it.
I don’t know what inspired this act of generosity, but life sometimes has lovely surprises in store.
We continued exploring the village’s little backstreets before heading back to the parking lot and then checking out the cemetery. It could be a charming spot for a picnic by the water.
So many little details make this village charming. It’s a visit we really enjoyed. The shops close at 5 PM.
It’s time for us to get back on the road to our accommodation. We arrive after dark. The hotel parking lot is full. We settle into our room and decide to eat early and nearby. A quick internet search shows it’s probably for the best—everything closes early around here. Some restaurants shut as early as 8 PM. We find a place just a two-minute walk away. Without realizing it, we’re in an onsen area. There’s a small complex with baths and several dining spots.
For a change, we go for pizza tonight. The welcome is super friendly. People in the countryside are really laid-back.
As people living in Japan predicted, after the typhoon, the weather turned beautiful! The sky is completely clear and blue. As for the sun, it’s shining and warming our hearts and bodies.
Under this glorious weather, we take the car. Stopping at a 7-Eleven for breakfast is no exception today, and we continue with a quick stop to fill up the car with gas. At many gas stations, there’s still staff, so this morning, we don’t even need to get out of the car. We just roll down the window, say hello, hand over some money, the tank gets filled, we get our change back, and off we go.
The countryside roads we take are stunning. The environment in this part of Saga Prefecture is especially lush, alternating between mountains, plains, and rivers. The small villages we pass through often have pretty houses—some traditional, others more recent—but almost all are well-maintained. You can tell there’s life here, and it doesn’t feel like an abandoned rural area. Maybe some places are, but if so, we didn’t see any where it was more obvious.
At an intersection, I spot an ice cream shop. We haven’t had any yet, unlike last year (when this little treat had become almost a daily ritual), and I’m really missing it. So without hesitation, even though it’s still morning, I decide to stop. After all, who knows if we’ll pass by here again later or another day?
The small parking lot in front is full. I turn around to park in the lot before the intersection, which belongs to a restaurant. It’s huge and nearly empty, and since I thought we’d only be stopping for a short time—just long enough for an ice cream—I figured it’d be fine. Well, no! We hadn’t even gotten out of the car when a woman immediately came over to ask if we were going to the ice cream shop and, if so, to park elsewhere. "Gomenasai" (sorry). We tried. We get back in the car and discover another parking spot for the ice cream shop, hidden behind it.
Outside, there are a few tables with umbrellas where you can enjoy your ice cream. Two people are taking advantage of them.
We open the door and step into a cozy little shop. The ice cream selection is pretty limited—maybe 4 or 5 flavors, not much more. You can add all sorts of decorative toppings, some more kawaii than others, and some more useful than others in terms of taste, but it seems like Japanese people love decorating their ice cream.
Our order is simple: one cup of matcha ice cream for one of us, and the other gets a mandarin and matcha ice cream surrounded by a kind of chestnut cream, topped with a candied chestnut. The service is quick and efficient.
The shop’s decor, full of cute little details, and the warm music playing make us decide to enjoy our ice cream inside after all.
Sitting at one of the counters, we savor our first ice cream at Café TAKENOKO. And it’s good! The matcha ice cream is sweet and slightly bitter. The mandarin ice cream tastes like frozen fruit. The chestnut cream is smooth and delicate, and the chestnut is firm yet melts in your mouth.
We even get a little French musical touch with the voices of Vanessa Paradis and Serge Gainsbourg.
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Voyage réalisé avec ma compagne du dimanche 5 juillet 2026 au mercredi 22 juillet 2026.
Nous avons longtemps hésité avant de décider si nous louions une voiture ou si nous nous déplacerions en transport en commun. Finalement, au vu du nombre de posts que j’ai pu lire de voyageurs s’étant fait arnaquer par la police ou par les loueurs, et même ceux recommandés par tous les blogs ou commentaires, nous avons décidé de nous déplacer en transport en commun. Cela se fait très bien. Effectivement on est un peu moins libre d’aller ou on veut mais c’était pour nous beaucoup moins de stress.
Dimanche 5 juillet :
Arrivée à l’aéroport de Cancun. Retrait d’argent au distributeur dans le terminal juste avant la sortie. Le comptoir des bus ADO (qu’ils prononcent « A-Ji-O ») est situé dans votre dos quand vous êtes face au distributeur. Bus vers le centre de Cancun 145 pesos par personnes.
Logement « Rose 5 » réservé sur Booking. Studio très propre parfait pour une nuit. Les indications du proprio pour accéder au logement étaient très précises avec photos à l'appui. L'arrivée est autonome et se fait par code. Le terminal de bus Ado est située pas très loin ainsi que des commerces et restaurants. Nous avons beaucoup apprécié que la clim ait été mise avant notre arrivée. D’ailleurs je vous invite à prendre des logements avec systématiquement la clim car il fait très chaud au Mexique.
Lundi 6 juillet :
Achat d’une carte sim dans une boutique TELCEL avec de la DATA. Ma compagne qui est sur Free a pu utiliser son forfait classique. Pour information j’ai trouvé le réseau très instable. Dès que l’on sortait des villes cela ne captait jamais que soit moi avec TELCEL ou ma compagne avec Free.
Autre point de vigilance, attention au hors forfait. J’ai dû remettre ma carte sim quelques secondes (moins de 30 secondes pour recevoir un code sms pour ma banque) et mon téléphone s’est visiblement connecté à internet. 8 euros de hors forfait.
Départ en bus ADO vers Chiquila pour 278 pesos par personne. Durant notre voyage, les bus ADO ont toujours été à l’heure, confortables et propres. Par contre la clim y est poussée à fond donc prévoyez de quoi vous couvrir car il y fait froid. Certains trajets étaient complets alors que nous étions en saison basse donc prévoyez de les réserver 1 ou 2 jours avant directement sur l’appli (quand elle fonctionne) sinon au comptoir de la compagnie.
Arrivés au terminal ADO à Chiquila, les comptoirs des compagnies de ferries sont juste à côté. Il y a des départs toutes les 30 minutes en alternance, donc pas besoin de réserver à l’avance. Il vous suffit de prendre la compagnie qui a le prochain départ (330 pesos par personnes).
Arrivés à Holbox (à prononcer « Holboch »), nous avions réservé un logement via booking à la « casa de nana ». Le logement était un très grand studio avec frigo, plaque pour cuisiner et ustensiles. Le gros plus de ce logement est L'emplacement. Il est situé à 100 mètres de la plage et 200 mètres d’un supermarché Chedraoui. Ils fournissent des serviettes de bain et des serviettes de plage. La climatisation fonctionnait parfaitement. Il y a une boîte à clé pour pouvoir les laisser dedans quand on sort. Par contre personne n’était là à notre arrivée pour nous ouvrir la chambre, nous avons dû attendre un moment. Le wi-fi était bon et heureusement car durant les 4 jours de notre séjour à Holbox, le réseau de téléphone n’a
jamais fonctionné. Au dire des locaux cela est assez fréquent à Holbox, comme les coupures d’eau.
Heureusement j’avais eu la bonne idée de télécharger une carte sur maps pour qu’elle soit disponible hors connexion, ce qui nous a permis de retrouver plus facilement notre logement. Le logement est accessible à pied depuis l’embarcadère.
Le restaurant à côté de notre logement (La Barracuda) est très bon si vous aimez les fruits de mer et je vous conseille leurs différentes recettes de poulpes.
Mardi 7 juillet :
Nous avons fait une sortie kayak dans la mangrove de Holbox le matin à 6h. Nous cherchions une sortie kayak au lever du soleil dans la mangrove avec un guide francophone. C’est le cas dans l’agence « kayaking Holbox » où Diego, le boss parle anglais et français. Il était accompagné de Gustavo, un collègue guide .
Nous avions réservé pour une sortie collective mais nous n’étions que 2. Diego a quand même maintenu la sortie là ou d’autres l'auraient annulée faute de participants. Nous avons donc eu droit à une sortie privée au tarif groupe ce qui est très professionnel de sa part.. Ils nous ont fait découvrir cet écosystème merveilleux pendant plus de 3h. Nous avons vu toutes sortes d'oiseaux : flamands roses, pélicans, aigrettes, frégates....Des raies , une limule et un petit crocodile vraiment bien caché. Diego et Gustavo ont vraiment l’œil pour voir les animaux. J'aurais pu passer 100 fois devant le crocodile et je ne l'aurais jamais vu tellement il se
fondait dans le paysage. Ses explications sur la faune et la flore étaient très intéressantes. Nous avons eu aussi droit à une petite pause où nous avons dégusté des mangues et bananes qui n’ont vraiment pas le même goût qu’en France . Un régal les petites mangues jaunes mexicaines. Je recommande Diego et son agence pour une sortie kayak en français (tarif 1000 pesos par personne).
Le soir, nous sommes allés à pied à Punta Coco pour voir la bioluminescence. Pas besoin d’excursion guidée pour cela. Si vous ne voulez vraiment pas marcher vous pouvez prendre un taxi. A Punta Coco il vous faut passer le bar restaurant sur la plage et ensuite aller vers la gauche dans un espèce de bras de mer qui forme un lac. Il faut remuer les pieds ou mettre les mains dans l’eau et l’agiter, c’est le mouvement qui fait produire la lumière. Attention ne vous attendez pas aux photos que vous avez pu voir et qui sont toutes retouchées !
C’est sympa à voir mais vous ne serez pas éblouis par la lumière...
Mercredi 8 juillet :
Sortie requin baleine avec « My Holbox tours ». Pourquoi vous conseiller cette agence plutôt qu’une autre parmi les différentes offres pour nager avec les requins baleines ? Tout simplement parce que Valérie sait s'entourer de très bons professionnels pour rendre votre expérience exceptionnelle. Nous étions avec le capitaine Fernando qui fait tout pour placer son bateau à la perfection et faciliter votre immersion. Dans l’eau nous étions accompagnés de Humberto qui fait lui aussi tout son possible et se démène pour que vous
passiez un moment incroyable. Il ne se contente pas de vous "surveiller" pour que tout se passe bien comme le font certains guides d’autres compagnies en vous abandonnant. Non, Humberto lit la trajectoire du requin baleine et vous guide. Vous n’avez plus qu’à le suivre. Il ne ménage pas ses efforts en vous tenant la main pour vous guider dans cette rencontre rapide mais intense . Humberto filme aussi ce moment. Il vous proposera de visionner les vidéos et vous proposera de les lui acheter. Ses vidéos sont de très bonne qualité.
Fernando et Humberto nous ont aussi préparé à manger. Mention spéciale pour leur guacamole . Valérie est là pour que tout se passe bien sur le bateau et répondre à vos questions en français, anglais ou espagnol sur cet animal. Si vous choisissez My Holbox Tours , vous serez sûrs d’avoir une prestation de grande qualité.
Concernant la sortie en elle même, avant de s’y lancer il faut savoir que les requins peuvent être très loin. Le jour de notre sortie nous avons fait 3h30 de bateau avant de les atteindre. Les bateaux utilisés sont des petits bateaux et autant vous dire qu’à l’aller, quand on n’était pas dans le bon sens par rapport aux vagues, ça tape dur ! Sur les 9 passagers 4 ont vomi. Par contre une fois face au requin vous oubliez tout ça. Même si nager avec le requin baleine n’est pas une promenade de santé. Ils nagent assez rapidement donc il faut de l’endurance pour les suivre. Vous aurez normalement droit à 2 passages. Notre premier passage a duré un
peu plus de 4 minutes et le deuxième 2 minutes environ car il allait assez vite et nous étions encore fatigués de notre premier passage. Cela peut sembler court mais quand on palme c’est très long. En tout cas c’est vraiment une expérience à faire mais choisissez bien la compagnie avec qui vous le faites. Au retour il y a un arrêt à Cabo Catoche. Franchement le snorkeling est assez décevant si vous avez déjà fait du snorkeling ailleurs dans le monde. Par contre le stop repas au Cabo Catoche est très sympa pour se reposer (sable blanc et hamacs).
Jeudi 9 juillet :
Petite balade à pied en direction de Punta Mosquito à 6h du matin. Très sympa.
Ferry en direction de Chiquila (330 pesos par personne) + bus Ado en direction de Valladolid (300 pesos par personne).
A Valladolid, réservation via Booking à l’hôtel « Casa Lucia ». L’hôtel est très beau, dans un style
colonial , il est très proche du terminal des bus ADO et du centre. Il est très calme et propre. Il y a une cuisine commune que l’on peut utiliser avec frigo, micro ondes et une fontaine à eau, avec une grande tablée devant la piscine, et un espace terrasse intérieure sympa. Le petit déjeuner, très simple, était inclus. Les seuls petits bémols étaient la taille de la chambre et de la salle de bain qui étaient assez petites, l'absence de miroir dans
la chambre, et le ventilateur qui faisait du bruit.
Vendredi 10 juillet :
Pas très loin du terminal de bus Ado se trouve la station de colectivos pour Chichen Itza . Il propose une offre aller-retour Chichen Itza avec possibilité au retour de vous déposer au cénote Ik Kil et ensuite de vous ramener à Valladolid pour 370 pesos par personne (entrée Ik kil comprise)
Pour la visite de Chichen Itza nous avions réservé une visite avec un guide souvent cité sur les groupes qui s’appelle Juan Pat. C’est un maya qui vit pas très loin du site et qui parle un excellent français. Il prend les places à l’avance pour vous et fait la queue pour être le premier sur le site. Cela nous a coûté 500 pesos par personne + les entrées. Sa visite dure 2 heures et est consacrée essentiellement à la pyramide principale et au terrain du jeu de balle. Il est passionné et passionnant même s’il semblerait qu’en tant que Maya, certaines
de ses affirmations seraient un peu partisanes. Il me semble vraiment important de prendre un guide sinon vous allez vraiment passer à côté du site. Vous pouvez contacter Juan Pat par whatsapp au +52 985 121 2381
Nous sommes ensuite allés au cénote Ik Kil (douche et gilets obligatoires, casiers à disposition) Effectivement il est très fréquenté, mais il est quand même très très joli avec sa végétation luxuriante.
Samedi 11 juillet :
Comme nous n’avions pas de voiture mais que nous voulions néanmoins visiter d’autres cénotes où il semblait compliqué de se rendre en transport en commun, nous avons fait le choix de réserver un taxi pour la journée. Nous nous sommes donc mis d’accord pour 1200 pesos pour nous amener à 3 cénotes différents et nous attendre à chaque fois: Xcanahaltun, Palomitas, Sac-Aua. (Pour trouver les taxis c’est simple : ils
stationnent à l’arrivée de la gare des bus ADO.)
Il nous a rejoint au cénote Zaci que nous avions rejoint à pied. Nous y sommes allés à l’ouverture, nous étions les premiers et seuls un moment ! 150 pesos par personne. Joli cénote en centre ville avec une belle végétation luxuriante. Il ressemble un peu à Ik Kil mais avec moins cet effet cylindre profond impressionnant.
Cénote Xcanahaltun : le plus beau cénote parmi ceux visités. Entrée 250 pesos par personne. Il s’agit d’un cénote fermé avec un trou qui laisse passer la lumière. Un décor de grotte. Kayak possible dans le cénote. Il y a plein de petits poissons au bord qui mangent les peau mortes de vos pieds. Etant fermé, l’eau est... très fraîche !
Cénote Palomitas : entrée 250 pesos par personne. Très beau cénote fermé, encore plus fermé que Xcanahaltun. Le trou au plafond est encore plus petit, donc très sombre quand nous sommes arrivés, ambiance un peu impressionnante. Extraordinaire lorsque le personnel allume les lumières, le cénote rappelle une « cathédrale gothique » pleine de stalactites très clairs.
Cénote Sac Aua : entrée 290 pesos par personne. L’entrée inclut la visite d’une grotte avec un guide local (paiement au pourboire). Ce cénote est très original avec son île centrale, et beaucoup moins couru que Suytun.
Pour info l’eau est vraiment très froide dans les cénotes. Dans ces trois cénotes, en juillet, nous étions seuls un moment et pas vu plus de 2 familles en même temps, vraiment très agréable !
Dimanche 12 juillet :
Bus Ado vers Bacalar (536 pesos par personnes).
A Bacalar, nous avons logé via AirBnb chez une hôte qui s’appelle Luli et qui propose plusieurs chambres avec salle de bain et cuisine partagée.
La chambre est joliment décorée dans un endroit agréable. Elle est idéalement située à proximité de la lagune et du centre ville. La cuisine partagée est pratique. La moustiquaire est utile au dessus du lit car il y a beaucoup de moustiques à Bacalar. Luli met à disposition un bidon d'eau ce qui est très appréciable. Seul gros point noir, c’est l’absence de pression à la douche, obligés de se rincer en remplissant un seau d'eau.
Par ailleurs il n'y a pas de "réelle" porte qui sépare la chambre de la salle de bain. Nous n'avons jamais vu Luli mais elle était très présente par message. La terrasse au milieu de la végétation est agréable.
Du terminal ADO au logement nous avons pris un taxi pour 40 pesos. Comme ce taxi avait été honnête sur le prix (nous nous étions renseignés auparavant) nous avons décidé de l’utiliser à chaque fois que nous avions besoin d’un taxi à Bacalar. Voici son Whatapp : +52 983 184 3585
Lundi 13 juillet :
Nous avons fait une sortie bateau sur la lagune avec « Bacalar Francophone activités ». Nous n’étions que tous les 2 donc cela nous a coûté 3500 pesos. Si nous avions réussi à être 4 cela nous aurait coûté 1000 pesos par personne.
Nous avons fait un tour privé de 4h sur la lagune avec Steeve et son bateau très confortable. Il est québecois donc parle un français parfait. Pendant ces 4 heures, Steeve nous a fait découvrir les différents lieux emblématiques de la lagune mais aussi des lieux où les autres bateaux ne vont pas. Il nous a raconté l'histoire de la Lagune. Il est aussi de bon conseil pour les lieux où aller et les restos où manger. En petit bonus une vidéo prise avec son drone lors de notre pause baignade.
Mardi 14 juillet :
Nous sommes allés à Los Rapidos en taxi (400 pesos aller retour) et entrée à 225 pesos par personnes. C’est très touristique mais c’est vraiment très beau. On peut y manger (cher), se reposer, faire autant de fois que l’on veut la descente des « rapides ». C’est intéressant si on y passe plusieurs heures. On ne peut pas y faire entrer nourriture et boissons, que l’on dépose à l’entrée et reprend à la sortie.
Mercredi 15 juillet :
Les mercredis, la navigation est interdite sur la lagune de Bacalar, nous avions donc prévu une autre excursion.
Visite de Calakmul au départ de bacalar avec l’agence ABCtours ( Whatsapp +52 983 319 8359)
Cette agence nous a organisé une excursion au départ de Bacalar et à destination de Calakmul avec un guide francophone. La communication avec l'agence a été très fluide en amont par whatsapp. Mr Checo le chauffeur et Fernando le guide qui parlait un très bon français sont venus nous chercher le jour dit. Mr Checo a conduit très prudemment sur cette longue route. Il s’est toujours assuré de notre confort. Fernando est passionné de faune et de flore. Il est biologiste, diplômé en ornithologie donc il est incollable sur les animaux.
Le moindre bruit ou chant et il sait de quoi il s’agit . Il a l’oeil pour les repérer, des plus grands au plus petit .
Lors du trajet nous nous sommes arrêtés au km 27 pour une petite balade en forêt, puis nous sommes ensuite allés voir les 2 principales pyramides du site . Au retour nous nous sommes arrêtés à la grotte aux chauves souris pour ce spectacle magique de plusieurs millions de chauves souris qui en sortent chaque jour à la tombée de la nuit . Au final nous avons vu ou aperçu furtivement pour certains, dans la foret, au bord de la route ou sur le site, des singes araignées, des singes hurleurs, un toucan , 2 tapirs , des dindons , 2
cervidés, des oiseaux . Si comme nous vous êtes très branchés faune et flore plus que archéologie je vous recommande cette agence et excursion avec Fernando.
Le prix n’est effectivement pas donné, mais la route est très longue entre Bacalar et le site (3h30). Prix : 3900 pesos par personne pour 2 (3500 si 3 et 3200 si 4)
jeudi 16 juillet :
Trajet en bus ADO vers Playa Del Carmen (614 pesos par personnes)
A playa Del Carmen, nous avons logé dans un logement loué sur Airbnb. L’immeuble est situé sur la place de la mairie, à côté du casino.
Le gros plus de ce logement est qu’il est très bien situé, pas très loin de la quinta. Cuisine plus que sommaire mais un frigo qui marche bien. Des supermarchés sont disponibles à proximité. La piscine sur le toit terrasse de l'immeuble est très sympa. Par contre les 2 gros points négatifs sont l'insonorisation (on entend carrément le réveil du voisin, et toutes les animations sur la place) et l'absence totale de pression à la douche. Nous étions obligés de remplir une poubelle d’eau pour nous la verser dessus. Quand nous l'avons indiqué au propriétaire il nous a dit que cela n'était pas normal et que quelqu'un passerait régler le problème mais nous
n'avons jamais eu de nouvelles. Au vu des précédents commentaires, le problème semble connu mais non réglé.
Playa del Carmen est très touristique côté quinta avenida, mais dans une ambiance musicale et bon enfant ;
nous ne nous sommes jamais sentis en insécurité. Énormément de petites boutiques de souvenirs pour touristes sur cette avenue. Jolie sculpture monumentale sur la plage (les deux personnages qui se rejoignent dans les airs), à coté de laquelle on peut voir le spectacle des Voladores (des hommes qui montent sur un mat, s’y accrochent les pieds par une corde, puis en descendent en tournant, en « volant » autour du mât, tête en bas. Spectacle au chapeau plusieurs fois par jour. Plus jolie que la quinta avenida à notre goût : la
calle 38, végétalisée, luxuriante et plus calme que la quinta avenida, à découvrir en début de soirée, avec la mer au bout. Repas très bons et prix très raisonnables au tacos « El Tio Noy », à quelques mètres de la quinta avenida, dans une rue perpendiculaire.
Pour vos souvenirs, nous vous conseillons d’aller au Walmart plutôt que sur la quinta, où vous trouverez à bons prix et fixes des têtes de mort, de la tequila, du mezcal, des portes clés, des mugs, des verres...
Vendredi 17 juillet :
Nous avons fait l’excursion vers Isla Contoy. Isla Contoy est une île non habitée très protégée. Seules 200 personnes peuvent y accoster par jour par roulement. Seules quelques compagnies ont donc le droit d’y accoster. La plupart des agences délèguent donc la journée à une agence tierce.
Nous avons donc réservé via l’agence VRM (Viviendo Riviera Maya) mais ce n’est pas cette agence qui assure la prestation mais Ocean Tours Mexico. L'île préservée de Contoy est un petit paradis . Nous avons été accompagnés par des guides multilingues et notamment francophones tout au long de la journée. Steffy nous a donné des renseignements sur l'île de Contoy lors d’une petite balade sur les chemins balisés de l’ile et Leño Tlatemoa a mis l'ambiance sur les trajets en bateau avec sa musique et ses danses . L'île de Contoy
est vraiment magnifique et le repas du midi était succulent : poisson et poulet grillés, guacamole et totopos, riz, fruits, boissons (tout est apporté et repris par l’équipe des guides) La partie snorkeling est par contre assez décevante si vous en avez déjà fait à Cozumel par exemple. Le stop sur Isla Mujeres n’a pas trop d'intérêt non plus car trop court pour explorer l'île et c’est une île excessivement touristique. L'excursion a en tout cas était très bien organisée par cette agence et nous avons passés une très bonne journée (prix 2970
pesos par personne)
Samedi 18 juillet :
Nous voulions faire du snorkeling à Cozumel mais nous trouvions que les prix des agences francophonesvétait très chers. Par ailleurs, pour faire du snorkeling nous nous sommes dit qu’il n’y avait pas de nécessitévd’avoir des guides francophones.
Nous avons donc trouvé une solution bien moins chère en prenant nous même le ferry à Playa Del Carmen etven choisissant une agence de Playa Del Carmen. Le ferry aller-retour nous a coûté 663,50 pesos parvpersonne. Nous avons ensuite pris un taxi pour rejoindre le bateau de snorkeling (100 pesos). L’agence quevnous avons choisi s’appelle Mystic Snorkel. Ils n’ont pas de locaux. La sortie nous a coûté 1400 pesos parvpersonne. Il s’agit d’un petit bateau mais ce jour là nous étions les seuls donc nous avons eu une sortie privéevau prix d’une sortie collective. Nous nous sommes arrêtés sur 4 sites différents. Ils étaient tous très différents
les uns des autres et très jolis. Nous avons vu toutes sortes de poissons, de coraux, un requin nourrice et desvtortues. Le site El cielo avec ses énormes étoiles de mer est exceptionnel. Si vous devez faire du snorkelingvdans le péninsule du Yucatan c’est vraiment la sortie à faire car les autres sites sont assez « pauvres ».
Dimanche 19 juillet :
Matinée plongée avec Triton Diving. J’ai choisi l’option plongée sur Cozumel. Très bonne expérience.
Réservation par whatsapp facile. Le jour des plongées c’est Selene, francophone, qui nous encadrait. Selenevest très attentive à la sécurité de son groupe . Les briefings sont clairs et précis. Sur Cozumel nous avons faitv2 sites très différents : le premier en plongée dérivante avec beaucoup de vie. De beaux coraux et poissons.
Le deuxième était une épave, le C53, un bateau de 56 mètres dans lequel on peut pénétrer. Peu de vie, maisvune belle épave coulée exprès pour les plongeurs donc en très bon état. Un moment inoubliable. Selene avmême pris des vidéos durant la plongée, que le club transmet par la suite gratuitement. Je recommande cevclub.
Pour information à Playa Del Carmen les plages étaient remplies de sargasses pendant notre séjour, malgrévla présence de barrières et malgré le ramassage quotidien. Il semblerait que le problème soit inextricable etvque les sargasses arrivent de plus en plus tôt dans la saison. Des locaux nous ont dit que le tourisme en avaitvpris un sacré coup cet été et qu’ils se demandaient si le tourisme pourrait exister encore longtemps sur lavpériode des sargasses. Beaucoup de touristes traversent donc vers les îles pour aller profiter des plages
d’Isla Mujeres et Cozumel, juste en face, dont ce côté (ouest) est épargné.
Lundi 20 juillet :
Trajet en colectivos pour Puerto Morelos. Un premier colectivo en direction de Cancun qui vous arrête entre Puerto Morelos village et Puerto Morelos plage (40 pesos par personne) et un autre de cet embranchement au bord de la route à Puerto Morelos plage (10 pesos par personne)
A puerto Morelos, nous avions réservé via Airbnb une chambre dans l’établissement Piedra Del Caraïbe.
Meilleur logement de nos vacances au Mexique. Il s’agit d’un appart hôtel. L'appart étant prêt avant l’heure du check in, on nous a autorisé à y entrer. Le logement était fidèle à la description, grand, spacieux, avec un lit King size confortable. La douche avait beaucoup de pression ce qui n’est pas une évidence au Mexique. Le personnel était très gentil et accueillant. Il nous ont permis de profiter de la piscine, des toilettes et de la douche sur le roof top, après le check out, et dans l'attente de l’heure de notre départ vers l'aéroport de Cancun pour notre vol retour. Ils ont même gardé nos bagages. Je recommande fortement cet établissement.
A Puerto Morelos, il y avait beaucoup moins de sargasses qu’à Playa Del Carmen. Cela était un peu plus baignable.
Nous avons fait la sortie snorkeling avec la coopérative des pécheurs pour 450 pesos par personnes durant 2 heures. Le récif est à proximité de la plage (il est interdit d’y aller à la nage) donc il y a très peu de temps de bateau. Ce n’est pas aussi joli qu’à Cozumel mais c’est sympathique et pas très cher. Sur la page de Puerto Morelos vous pouvez aussi accéder à un petit récif pas en très bon état. Il y a aussi un cénote dans la mer où l’eau douce se mélange avec l’eau salée. L’eau est trouble à cet endroit-là. Très bon dîner et excellents cocktails à « la choza del puerto ».
Mardi 21 juillet :
Flâneries dans puerto morelos (allez voir l’église et lisez bien tout ce qui est écrit, c’est divertissant!!), farniente à la piscine de l’hôtel et départ vers l’aéroport de Cancun en taxi (400 pesos) réservé par Indrive, pour rentrer en France.
Nos coups de coeurs :
- Holbox
- la sortie requin baleine
- les cénotes
- la flore et la faune locale très présente
- Isla contoy
- Cabo catoche hormis le snorkeling
Ce qui nous a le moins plu :
- la bioluminescence (très peu visible malgré de bonnes conditions)
- la nourriture que nous avons trouvé peu diversifiée dans les taquerias
- les pourboires constants
- le manque de pression dans les douches (fixes au mur, sans flexible et pommeau)
N’hésitez pas si vous avez des questions tant que c’est encore frais dans nos têtes.
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
I’m sharing a little recap of this new 4-week trip to China—nothing fancy, just my experience.
We’re taking advantage of the extended visa exemption to return to China for the 4th time. I loved last summer’s trip so much that I’m a bit worried about being disappointed this year. Plus, I’ve had a few hiccups before this departure: my WeChat account got blocked, and I couldn’t recover it (luckily, Alipay still works fine); I couldn’t verify my 12306 account for weeks; Trip.com failed to book our second train; and I’ve got an injury that’ll slow me down during the trip... Ugh, I hate starting a trip with these kinds of issues. Then, oh surprise! Just before leaving, my 12306 account got verified! Super easy to use from that point on—I could book a few train tickets without fees.
We’re sticking with Free’s e-SIMs, which work great in China.
August 2–3
Anyway, on the morning of August 2nd, we took the RER to CDG. As usual, we couldn’t check in online. It’s always a bit frustrating, especially since we didn’t have any checked luggage. We flew with Air China. We arrived at the check-in counter at 9:50 AM, 2 hours and 40 minutes before the flight. The line for our check-in stretched 300 meters across the airport in both directions. What a joke!! We spent 1 hour and 45 minutes in that line just to reach the counter and get our boarding passes. By then, it was 11:35 AM, and boarding had already started at 11:20 AM. The screens showed a 25-minute walk to our gate—on the other side of the airport, of course—plus we had to go through passport control and security... Long story short, the plane didn’t leave without us 🙂 We boarded among the last passengers, and we took off at 12:30 PM. We’d flown Air China four times before, but this time, it felt *really* low-cost. The check-in chaos, the cramped seats (12 seats per row), no music by artists known outside China, mediocre food, and a boarding area at Beijing Airport with only 10 seats—worthy of Ryanair or EasyJet. And yet, the price was sky-high. Again, D.’s vacation requests were denied outside of July and August, so we’re traveling from August 2nd to 30th. We couldn’t have picked a worse time for inflated prices, and with the situation in Iran, we got hit with a 390 € fuel surcharge. I’ve never paid so much for flights—I felt like I’d bought business class, but nope, far from it!!
We landed in Beijing around 4:15 AM. It was 28°C with thick fog. We drove and drove and drove for 20 minutes, as usual in Beijing. Then we went through a first check, a second check, a third check, and waited for our connecting flight at 6:40 AM. A small Airbus A320, but way more space than in the Boeing 777 from the first flight. We landed in Kunming, Yunnan, around 10:15 AM in the rain.
We headed to the subway. You can’t pay at the machines with Alipay here either, so we set up the transport QR code directly in Alipay to scan at the subway gates. The process is a bit long the first time if you haven’t entered your info before, but once it’s done, it’s *so* much easier! We took Line 6 to the terminus for 6 yuan each.
We’d booked a hotel nearby, on the 16th floor. It’s actually studios on different floors of a huge residential building. The view’s pretty nice from here. We settled in quickly—back to those wooden beds, or rather, mattresses as hard as wood, which we *hadn’t* missed...
Then we went out for our first bowl of noodles of the trip and wandered through the shopping streets of the old town.
It was crowded, and the weather was cool—around 19–20°C. We tried a local specialty: milk skin, thick, dried, then grilled with rose jam. Yeah... we won’t be having that again. The taste and texture of the milk skin... no thanks.
We saw a lot of wild mushroom hotpot too. It’s on our list for later. We also passed through the Jinma and Biji gates, where I played with reflections in puddles. I *love* doing that 🙂
At the end of the day, we headed to a temple advertised as open 24/7 on Amap. Of course, when we got there, it was closed. We’ll go back tomorrow. That was the first of many disappointments with Amap this trip—I hadn’t had that issue on previous visits.
We were exhausted after that sleepless flight. Night was falling, and we decided to grab a quick bite without much appetite. We shared a delicious vegetable fried rice for 12 yuan—we even left half of it. The portions are *huge*.
After a couple of small purchases, we headed back at 9 PM, wiped out, after walking 17 km between the airports and these first steps in Kunming. I expected to see quite a few Western travelers here, but we didn’t spot a single one. Instead, we met lots of curious Chinese people, many of them super friendly and helpful—almost *too* eager, like when they’d run to serve us as fast as possible. It’s a bit much, but it’s great to be back!
"So, my little wanderers, back at the decks? What’s this mystery destination you’ve got in store for us at the start of the year?"
Yes, the schoolyard bell’s ringing again! We’re hitting the road... or rather, the skies! At first glance, our destination might surprise more than a few. First off, simply because I was here exactly twenty years ago, and I don’t usually like retracing my own footsteps. Secondly, because the name of this place screams mass tourism—basically the opposite of what Flo and I look for.
Despite that, in this land of backsheesh, I’d promised myself I’d come back one day to experience it my way. And since Flo told me, during our wanderer chats, that this destination straddling Africa and the Middle East was in her top 2 travel dreams, the stars aligned for this roots-style trip to quickly make it onto our pharaonic festivities program! Unless you’re totally clueless in general knowledge, you’ve probably guessed by now—we’re off to Egypt! Of course, a few classics will be on our itinerary, but above all, we want to soak up a culture that can’t be appreciated in four-star resorts or on a Nile cruise boat. And let’s be clear, these next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park—neither for our two daughters who are joining us, nor for our bodies!
And that’s clear from the get-go: after our first flight, eight hours of trying (and failing) to sleep on Milan airport’s metal seats, our second flight, landing, passport stamps, our Uber ride, and our first Cairo kilometers, we finally drop our exhaustion at the little guesthouse we booked in Giza. Doesn’t all that energy deserve a little reward?
Oh, absolutely! And here it is: a full-on slap in the face for everyone! But just look at this view from our hotel terrace? For 20 € a night for four, even with this incredible view, I figured the room must be pretty shabby, right? Nope... Is the staff rude, then? Nope... Okay, so what’s the catch? You’re gonna tell me breakfast is included too? Well, yes! Honestly, this Egypt trip is off to a great start.
And the rest of the afternoon, spent rubbing shoulders with locals, only confirmed this vibe. After digesting our pyramid view, we dove into the hustle and bustle of our neighborhood with the goal of exchanging money, eating at street stalls, and testing the hospitality of the locals. Ten out of ten!
Eight little sun breads with baba ganoush and falafel? 80 pounds, or 1.5 €. A dozen Middle Eastern pastries? Same! 80 pounds! Two hawawshis, those little pita breads stuffed with meat and spices? 10 pounds each, or about twenty cents! Not to mention all those smiles and free "welcomes" left and right!!!
What a welcome! We end this first day with a sunset over the three sisters of Giza—where we’ll obviously be gawking tomorrow...
If I close my eyes and think of the Sultanate of Oman, I first smell a light scent of incense, feel the warmth of a sunbeam on my skin, before sand slips through my fingers. I taste the sweetness of a date, a real candy, then the flavor of coffee with a hint of cardamom and rosewater... I hear the desert wind whistling in my ears, the distant call of a muezzin, then the murmur of water. I open my eyes to see smiles, welcoming gestures, a turquoise sea, rocks ranging from ochre to purple, deep wadis where torrents burst forth, orange dunes, white sandy beaches where tiny crabs scurry at full speed. I see incredible oases emerging between arid mountains. I see abandoned villages that I’d dream were full of life, imposing fortresses overlooking valleys, and lively souks where offers are delicate and negotiation is a mutual courtesy.
All that, and so much more.
This is what I tried to capture in my illustrated travel journal, which I’ll fill in here and there with photos.
I drew this journal “cold,” after my return (actually, I made it this summer, while our trip was last winter). It’s a pretty special format—I bought it in Japan without really knowing what I’d do with it. Well, it found its purpose! Below is a photo of this accordion-style journal: here, it’s only partially open, because when fully unfolded, it’s 5 meters long!
For drawing enthusiasts: The accordion format is both a constraint (each sheet is 9 cm x 27 cm) and a freedom (you can create a fresco). The paper is also a bit special: it doesn’t allow for fine lines, but it takes ink well (liner pen). However, everything has to be done almost in one go (with a very light pencil sketch) because it erases poorly. It absorbs too much water for coloring with markers or watercolors (unless you avoid soaking it), but it works well with oil pastels and their use with a brush and solvent. Since it’s yellowish, it allowed me to create contrasts even with white pastel.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Oman is one of the world’s largest producers of frankincense resin. Incense burners are everywhere, from the simplest clay ones to the most precious handcrafted silver ones...
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
Hi everyone, we're back from a DIY USA road trip we organized from July 31, 2026, to August 26, 2026.
The destination: The Southwest USA, including Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Roughly 7,000 kilometers covered.
The car: A Chevrolet Equinox for two, rented through BSP Auto and Avis. Inside, we had 2 suitcases, a travel bag, two carry-on bags, a Walmart cooler, photo gear, and water bottles (a 40-pack).
The route: Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo, and back to Dallas to finish with a departure from DFW.
The travelers: Two seniors well advanced in years (73 and 75) but still active (nothing too physically demanding—to stay alive and fund our trips), fully independent physically, though a bit less so mentally. Big USA fans, a country where anything is possible. More walkers than hikers, preferring 3-star hotels over roadside motels, Italian restaurants over US food, frequent stops for photos, museums over nothing, naps over forced marches. Not too whiny, just enough to stay French in the land of the "great Satan," as they say.
Not great with languages—street English (but handy), and my Spanish is non-existent except for: "Hola! Una cerveza por favor!" That’s about it. My wife understands everything but refuses to speak.
The cost of the road trip: Around 12,000 €, including AF flights, the car, gas, gifts, visits, and everything else. Well managed, since we’d budgeted 13,500 € initially.
The positive side: A delight, with those endless open roads. Museums to discover. The realization of the Hispanic presence and its important history in this part of America. Lovely locals. Tourists who were more or less friendly. A terrible Texan accent that was hard to understand. Gas stations that were like real stores, with prepared food, alcohol sold in Arizona and New Mexico, and employees who were always up for a laugh!
The negative side: The heat throughout the trip... 43°C in Dallas at the end. Impossible to walk the streets. Lots of homeless people in downtown Dallas. Hotel breakfasts that were always the same. You get used to it.
So, it was positive overall, but the concept is starting to wear us out. We might rethink the DIY road trip model for next time. If the man upstairs grants us more time.
Next up, we’ll wait for the first batch of sorted photos to go through the wringer.
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Traveling with just one spare pair of underwear, considering a hot shower a miracle, never staying in the same place too long by sleeping wherever night catches us, taking whatever local, improbable, and rickety transport we can find—this is the DNA of us wanderers. Except this time, the script for our movie is going to be a whole different genre. On paper, the destination doesn’t exactly scream epic adventure: Réunion! And what’s more... we won’t be two, or four, or even ten. We’ll be a solid thirty. All from the same family. Yes, thirty. At this point, it’s not just a trip—it’s a summer camp on the move! Why inflict this on such a peaceful island? Because my brother decided to get married there with his lovely bride. A great idea, you might say... especially when it involves relocating the equivalent of a small Ardennes village 10,000 kilometers from home for three weeks! So who’s stepping up to be the guide and wave the little flag?
So, for an exceptional trip, exceptional stories! Don’t worry, the debates at the supermarket over whether to choose plain chips or roast chicken chips, the beach picnics washed down with ti’ punch, and other rougail sausages to digest by the pool will only make it into the family archives. Here, I’ll stick to the tales of our beautiful escapes, the ones where we explore the wild corners of this little volcanic rock planted in the middle of the Indian Ocean. So where exactly are we headed?
For the first week—the subject of this first installment—we’re taking it easy. We’ll start by rediscovering the coastline, from the Souffleur in Saint-Leu to the Hermitage lagoon, before a little trip to the Cirque de Cilaos and its legendary road with 400 turns, just to get our legs warmed up.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of three years at most in Thailand, and I’m not a big expert on the country.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to piece together a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who miss it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guards for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big property, be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t really made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though, are much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been broken for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the side of the road, sometimes right on the road. When you arrive, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, which reminds visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. Seeing a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you might think it’s best not to cross paths with them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at temples on the brink of death, enduring terrible suffering. No one did anything about it. The image (and the smell) of one of them, dying and emitting the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The well-fed animal quickly became a happy, enormous beast with its own garden. Yet, it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water in them for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not a gimmick—it’s just that these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
"How about a Christmas market this year, huh? A little romantic weekend getaway...
- Yes! That’d be cool! Strasbourg? Colmar?
- Feels a bit déjà vu, doesn’t it? Plus, slim chance of snow there... And I’d love something a bit more exotic with a touch of originality..."
"Okay, Google, give me the list of the five most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe.
- In fifth place, the Christmas market in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania.
- Save your breath! Lithuania, here we come!"
We wanted cold, and cold is exactly what we got the moment we set foot in this new, unknown land. As for landscapes, forests and lakes stretch as far as the eye can see across this vast plain, its vegetation scorched by the frost of a winter that’s clearly already well underway here.
Lakes, in fact, set the scene for our first visit to Trakai Castle, whose brick-red towers and walls rise proudly against the azure sky of our first day. Lakes, because this castle was built on an island and is only accessible on foot via a series of walkways spanning half-frozen lake offshoots. I couldn’t have picked a better spot to build my castle! Translation: We’re totally sold! Proof is we spend two hours hiking around the area, alternating between forests, reeds, and cozy houses tastefully decorated for Christmas.
Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long.
To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later.
We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.
We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam.
The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.
Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.
Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.
A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.
12/07/2013
The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people.
So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom.
That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.
We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.
Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver.
Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!
We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.
After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.
At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.
We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.
That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.
Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.
Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.
We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.
Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!
Hi there,
I just got back from a trip to Sri Lanka from December 18th to January 1st with 2 adults and 2 kids (12 years old).
If it helps, here’s my itinerary.
We left on December 18th from Madrid with Qatar Airways. No complaints. I booked my tickets back in March for 800 € per person. (I flew from Madrid because I live near the Spanish border and was too worried about strikes in France.)
We arrived on December 19th at 4 PM (local time). Before leaving France, I’d booked a taxi through MyTransfer for 59 € to Sigiriya. A van was waiting for us at the airport exit.
A never-ending 3-hour drive to Sigiriya. We stayed at Samana Guesthouse—very simple, clean, with a pool and an excellent Sri Lankan breakfast. Shower and straight to bed.
Friday, December 20th: Beautiful weather, but very humid and hot. We visited Lion Rock (36 € for adults) and then Pidurangala.
I loved both sites—they’re a must-do in my opinion.
Spent the late afternoon by the pool.
Saturday, December 21st: Another gorgeous day. The guesthouse manager offered us a free 2-hour tuk-tuk tour. We first visited a lake, rice fields, the temple, and the Sigiriya market, plus the usual tourist trap—the botanical garden (no pressure to buy anything at the end).
Then we took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Temple, the Golden Buddha, and the wholesale market.
Sunday, December 22nd: Still beautiful weather. I’d booked a taxi for 8 AM. We did all the long trips by taxi to save time. I’d ask for prices from 2 or 3 WhatsApp taxi agencies 2 days or the day before—super responsive, always got replies within 5 minutes. We headed to Ella (4-hour drive) for 22,000 LKR.
Arrived in the afternoon at Rest Full Homestay—a small, family-run guesthouse. Clean, cozy, and an amazing Sri Lankan breakfast.
In the afternoon, we went to Nine Arches Bridge. It was a Sunday, a Sri Lankan holiday, so it was *packed*—mostly locals and very few white tourists! Even though it was crowded, it was cool because it was all Sri Lankans. We waited an hour for the train. It’s worth seeing, but honestly, I didn’t think it was that amazing.
Then we headed to the station to check if we needed to book tickets for the train to Haputale—turns out, no.
Monday, December 23rd: Beautiful weather. We hiked Ella Rock—a gorgeous trek. The final stretch is steep but shaded, so it wasn’t as tough as I’d read. The whole hike is stunning from start to finish. We saw the train pass twice (one blue, one red) and lots of women picking tea.
After that, we did Little Adam’s Peak. It’s not hard, but it was *packed* with tourists—meh. Luckily, at the top, you can walk a bit farther (down one side and back up) to get some space to yourself.
What I *didn’t* like was the commercial vibe at the big café/restaurant with a pool at the entrance of Little Adam’s Peak. Loud music, all that money being made right next to little souvenir stands run by Sri Lankans or tea-picking women. Felt off.
Ended the day buying souvenirs at one of the few shops we found during the trip.
Tuesday, December 24th: Beautiful weather. Took the train to Haputale. We got to the station 30 minutes before the 9:30 AM train. We could’ve taken 2nd or 3rd class—I went with 2nd (160 LKR per person).
It was crowded, but we managed to get seats—first 2, then 3. Only a 1-hour ride, but I *loved* it—windows and doors open the whole time.
Arrived in Haputale around 11 AM, and the mist was already rolling in.
We walked to our guesthouse, The Mist Holiday Bungalow. Simple but clean, with a great view of the tea plantations. The owner’s wife is Vietnamese and used to work for French tour operators, so her French is still pretty good—helpful for us since our English is terrible. They booked us a tuk-tuk for 4:45 AM the next day (2,000 LKR) to Lipton’s Seat.
Spent the afternoon wandering around Haputale. Not much charm, but there’s a nice fruit and veggie market and a short walk through the tea plantations.
Wednesday, December 25th: Beautiful weather. The tuk-tuk was on time to take us to Lipton’s Seat. We were the first ones there—the sky was just starting to turn pink. In the end, only about ten of us watched the sunrise. The guesthouse had packed us breakfast, and we walked back down (half on the road, half through the plantations). Didn’t see any tea picking since it was Christmas, but the walk was still incredible. We took detours through villages full of kids.
After that, we visited the tea factory. The tour was really interesting, and we took the bus back down to Haputale. Such a great moment—whole families were heading to mass, dressed up and made up. All so beautiful.
At noon, we left for Udawalawe National Park. Taxi for 14,000 LKR. Stayed at River Inn Safari Cottage. *Warning*: It’s the same place as Eagle Safari Cottage. I don’t recommend it. We’d always stayed with families before, but here it was just staff—totally different vibe. The pool was nice but not very clean (water was murky). The bungalow was big and fine, but it was brand new—so new the asphalt floor wasn’t fully dry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we had to eat on-site. Couldn’t leave a review on Booking because they never confirmed we’d stayed, and they canceled our reservation the next day.
Thursday, December 26th: Beautiful weather. I’d booked a safari through the hotel for 5:30–10 AM for 54 USD. Honestly, yes, there are a lot of jeeps, but it was great. The kids loved it—we saw everything there was to see.
Left by taxi at 11:30 AM for Welligama (12,000 LKR).
We didn’t stay in Welligama city but at Coconut Beach, between Welligama and Midigama. *Total crush* on the guesthouse: Sky Mountain Café with View. Such a lovely family. The mom makes amazing meals at reasonable prices. The view from the hill over the sea is unreal.
Spent the afternoon walking along the beach.
Friday, December 27th: Beautiful weather. My kids are surfers. Unfortunately, there weren’t any boards their size to rent at Coconut, so we took a tuk-tuk to Welligama Bay (1,000 LKR). They surfed from 8 AM to 5 PM—rental was 5,000 LKR for the day. Meanwhile, we walked the beach and swam. Water was 29°C.
Saturday, December 28th: Beautiful weather, rain from 4 PM until midnight. Same surf day. They were so well-behaved the whole trip, so this was their reward.
Sunday, December 29th: Beautiful weather. Beach day at Coconut. *Warning*: It’s a reef break. For surfers, there are three spots (Coconut Left, Middle, and Right). The boys bodysurfed (with fins) all morning, and at 1 PM, we took the bus to Hikkaduwa.
Stayed at Hotel Universal Beach. Nothing special—right on the water, but the rooms were dark even though they were clean. The manager was super nice, but the rest was meh, and breakfast was mediocre compared to what we’d had before (2 eggs and 3 slices of toast). Plus, it was late—8 AM.
First impression of Hikkaduwa wasn’t great—way too many Russians for our taste.
Monday, December 30th: Beautiful weather. Spent the whole day exploring. Turtle Beach, then the other side of the beach (toward Galle) near the fishing port. The beach there is much wider, with scattered hotels and super quiet. It’s beautiful—I should’ve booked somewhere in that area. Ended up having a great day away from the crowds.
Tuesday, December 31st: Overcast, then beautiful, rain at 4 PM. Had to end the year (and the trip) with some surf. Rented boards for the kids (3,000 LKR per board for the day). Bad luck—the waves were on a reef break but small. Not great for them, but no big deal. They still got out of the water by 2 PM. Walked the beach (which is gorgeous), had a juice, and went for a swim. Then back to surfing in the rain at 4 PM.
Wednesday, January 1st: Left by taxi at 5 AM (18,000 LKR). Flight at 10 AM. Arrived in Madrid at 8 PM.
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
We did the Langtang trek (hike) from September 10th to 17th, with the first and last days being the trip from Kathmandu and back—so 6 days of actual walking. It’s a fairly well-known trek but certainly not as famous or crowded as those in the Annapurna or Everest regions, which is why we chose it.
In theory, it’s mandatory to have a guide for this trek. In reality, it seems there are ways to bypass the regulations: we met at least two people hiking without a guide—a South Korean, a New Zealander, and possibly also a couple of English women and an American couple, though we’re not sure if they had a guide.
The agency we booked with had told us it was an affordable trek for relatively older people in good shape—which is our case (I’m 72 myself). I have to say upfront that we found it quite challenging, maybe because we didn’t have good weather—it was the end of the monsoon season. To be clear, no matter your fitness level, I’d say doing this trek in the middle of the monsoon season would be suicidal.
Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi
On Monday, September 8th, there had been violent protests in Kathmandu against the government, which had, among other things, blocked access to social media and been accused of nepotism and corruption. There were 19 deaths. The situation was very tense on the day of our departure, Wednesday the 10th. The agency warned us that public transport was very unreliable. So, we decided to take a jeep, at an additional cost of $100 ($160 minus what was already budgeted for the bus).
We left a little before 7 a.m. and it took us a good hour just to reach the outskirts of Kathmandu. Along the way, we saw several houses and vehicles set on fire by protesters.
The road to Syapru Besi is only 120 km, but it’s frankly awful. It’s always narrow, winds through endless mountains, and the shoulders range from bad to confusing to nonexistent. Several sections are just dirt tracks. We didn’t regret opting for the jeep, as we could stop several times at our convenience—if only to let Y (my Thai partner) throw up everything she had. She’d taken her usual motion sickness medication, but the constant turns, accelerations, and braking eventually made her terribly carsick.
In Nuwakot, we stopped for breakfast at a nice little restaurant, Jimbu. It was around 8:30 a.m., and we’d barely covered 60 km. The restaurant has a lovely garden overlooking the Trishuli Ganga, the river flowing down from Syapru Besi. First photo: the river in the bottom right corner, mist and clouds over the mountain on the other side.
An hour later, my second photo: the hills along the Trishuli Ganga. You can see the different crops—lush green rice paddies in the lower right and corn, already yellowed and likely harvested, in the foreground on the left. And of course, the mist and clouds through which you can glimpse the mountain on the other side of the river.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.
Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.
Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.
I hesitated about writing this travel journal...
This summer, we only did the classics (the 3 northern parks and Zanzibar) and let a local agency take care of everything from start to finish.
No craziness, no risks, no sleeping under the stars, no self-drive, no venturing off the beaten path, no incidents, and not even any delays in the pre-planned itinerary...
But don’t think we were disappointed!
The whole family (there were 6 of us) came back with smiles and memories of great moments spent together.
So, if you're looking for a "classic" way to discover Tanzania, this is the place to be.
Our 2-week itinerary:
- Arusha (1 night upon arrival)
- Tarangire (1 night)
- Ngorongoro (2 nights in Karatu then Irmisigiyo)
- Serengeti (3 nights in Robanda, Togoro Plains, and Seronera)
- Zanzibar Stone Town (1 night)
- Zanzibar Matemwe (3 nights)
- Zanzibar Jambiani (3 nights)
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
It’s an ancient city that breathes, a living spring.
Here, no kitschy signs like “I miss you in Fengyu,” nor mass-produced fake antiques.
The century-old houses still bear the marks of wind and rain; in the morning, you hear roosters crowing, and at dusk, smoke gently rises from the kitchens.
This city doesn’t try to please anyone—like the spring water flowing through it, it simply keeps living at its own pace.
Located in Eryuan County, in the Dali Prefecture of Yunnan, the ancient town of Fengyu is a nationally designated historical and cultural city. It’s nicknamed the “land of scholars and ink”—during the Qing Dynasty, the Fengxiang Academy produced four *jinshi* and eleven *juren* in the imperial examinations. The Bai families made studying and farming a true legacy. Even on market days, you’ll find stalls of calligraphy and paintings, while lintels and screen walls are covered with family mottos.
Fengyu was also an important stop on the ancient Tea Horse Road. It preserves the second-largest Bai architectural complex in China, just after Xizhou. The famous traveler Xu Xiake spent seven days here and compared it to the “peach blossom paradise.”
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
Let’s start with the shotengai...
Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that pop up in city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.
It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the vintage vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to nearby Senso-ji Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area).
In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are like real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)
In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:
And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:
The latest travel journal about Turkmenistan dates back to 2019. Here’s a quick update on this vast desert country, which is now a bit easier to visit than before.
This is my first travel journal. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. The country is slowly opening up, but it’s still possible to visit sites where you’ll be completely alone. In five days, I saw two Hongkongers, a few Germans, and a Chilean at the crater, ten Chinese people in a capital bazaar, and that’s it!
It’s possible to visit Turkmenistan from Uzbekistan. The easiest and most economical way is to take a taxi to the border from Bukhara. The trip takes a little over an hour.
Crossing the border takes quite a while because many Turkmen bring back items bought in Uzbekistan to resell in Turkmenistan. For example, diapers, baby products, or beauty products.
It took me over 2.5 hours to cross the border. To visit Turkmenistan, it’s mandatory to have a guide and go through a travel agency. British agencies often offer three-, five-, or seven-day trips for over 1,500 or 2,000 €.
But if your budget is more limited, you can contact a few Turkmen agencies directly by email, and they’ll make you an offer between 700 and 1,300 € for three to seven days. I took a five-day trip from Turkmenabat in the northeast of the country to Dashoguz in the north. The goal was to visit the main UNESCO-listed sites, including Merv, and archaeological sites like Nisa or Gonur Tepe.
Your guide will also be your driver. They’ll pick you up at the border. The formalities are very long because customs officers have to stamp multiple documents, and obtaining the visa you previously requested from your travel agency requires several checks. But the process goes relatively smoothly, even if each step takes a while.
Once on the other side, the first surprise is the brand-new highway all the way to Turkmenabat. A very long line of trucks stretches for several kilometers on the Turkmen side to cross the border into Uzbekistan. According to my guide, Turkmen trucks transport gas and cotton (though not this season, since the harvest is in September), but they mainly fill up their tanks because fuel is much cheaper in Turkmenistan. A full tank for a car costs about 3 €, which is unbeatable.
From the Farap border post, the goal is to reach the city of Mary, which is home to the UNESCO-listed site of Merv in its suburbs, about thirty kilometers away. This city is known as a foundation by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC under the name Alexandria of Margiana. Several fortresses are visible.
After more than three hours on the road, we have lunch at a Turkish restaurant called Aladdin. Several quotes from the president are visible along the highway, but the road is in good condition, and we move along easily. This will be by far the best road in the country—things will get much worse later.
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
It often happens that we're asked what to visit in Belgium.
And the answers usually point to Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp, and Brussels—and rightly so, as these cities are well worth visiting ;).
However, Belgium, though small, isn’t just limited to these four cities.
I live in one of them (Brussels), enjoy spending time in the other three, but I’d like to highlight some lesser-known spots that could add to the trip for those who want to see a bit more or something different.
Between trips, I like exploring one or two corners of the country where I live.
Hence the idea for a travel journal of walks.
Most of the places I’ll talk about can be visited as a day trip from Brussels, whether by public transport or car.
In chronological order of the topics covered:
- The Gileppe Dam (Liège province) - message 2, page 1
- The Domaine de La Hulpe (Walloon Brabant) - message 3, page 1
- Mechelen (Antwerp province) - message 4, page 1
- The coast - message 5, page 1
- The Westhoek, from De Panne - message 6, page 1
- The Zwin, from Knokke - message 7, page 1
- Lier (between Mechelen and Antwerp) - message 8, page 1
- Mons (Hainaut) - message 9, page 1
- The Florenville region - message 12, page 1
- The East Cantons - message 13, page 1
- Dinant - message 18, page 1
- The Japanese garden in Hasselt - message 24, page 2
- Leuven - message 29, page 2
- Louvain-la-Neuve - message 32, page 2
- Ostend - message 42 (page 3) and message 166 (page 9)
- The floralies of Groot-Bijgaarden - message 43, page 3
- Halle Forest - message 44, page 3
- Pralines - message 54, page 3
- Charleroi - message 68, page 4
- Namur - message 92, page 5
- Le Bois du Cazier (Marcinelle) - message 95, page 5
- Couques and gosettes - message 96, page 5
- Liège - message 99, page 5
- Tournai - message 115, page 6
- Oudenaarde - message 121, page 7
- Meise Botanical Garden - message 124, page 7
- Tongeren - message 125, page 7
- Beersel Castle (Flemish Brabant) - message 126, page 7
- Brussels in lockdown (messages 150 and 154, page 8)
- Notre-Dame à la Rose Hospital in Lessines (messages 161 and 162, page 9)
- Westende (message 167, page 9)
I’ll keep updating this list as the journal progresses...
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rental options kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything suddenly fell into place—I told myself, it’s time!
The preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not the south?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or go with the flow?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela about this destination (the guide has been updated since).
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You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(Steak for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
You’ll find here a post with some practical information.
And here, the version of the travel journal without comments.
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As a supplement, the route track.
Not necessarily ultra-accurate since Google has serious gaps for this destination...
January 2026
Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).
In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
I’d been wanting to discover Sulawesi for years. But then life happened—COVID, the cost of flight tickets, you name it. Long story short, years went by, but we finally set off as a family for a three-week trip in southern Sulawesi: Rammang Rammang, Rantepao, Sengkang, Bira, and Selayar.
I like to spend a good amount of time in the places I visit, giving myself the chance to really get to know the area and meet locals. So no island-hopping this time—just the south. But when I say "just," it’s not restrictive at all, given how rich this island is in landscapes, little encounters, and magical moments.
Wednesday 07/08 - Thursday 07/09:
We left Montpellier for what was supposed to be five flights, though we only took four to start, landing in Jakarta.
We picked up our luggage there to catch a flight to Makassar the next day. That’s the only way we could get an affordable ticket (702 €).
I won’t bore you with the flight details—there’s not much to say. We arrived at 7 PM and considered heading straight to Makassar that evening. But we opted for a recovery night before taking off again. Good thing we did, because my son’s suitcase was missing...
First contact with the locals was a bit stressful—a trip without your luggage isn’t exactly fun. But right away, a woman reassured us: the suitcase was just enjoying some extra time in Singapore. Maybe it was doing some last-minute shopping. Anyway, nothing serious—it was supposed to arrive at 9 AM the next day. That gave us some breathing room since our flight wasn’t until noon.
So off we went to our hotel (Days Hotel & Suites) near the airport. It was cheap (40 € for three rooms—my kids are older and need their space), but it wasn’t worth much more. The place had definitely seen better days. But no big deal—we were only there for the night, and... we got to watch France beat Morocco in the World Cup live at 3 AM. That’s what really mattered!
Friday 07/10: In search of the lost suitcase
First challenge of the morning: finding our missing suitcase. They sent us to the airport basement, to the staff entrance. We were greeted with smiles, and an airport employee led me through the underground corridors back to the baggage claim. Right on time at 9 AM, the suitcase arrived, just like they’d promised. We were finally complete!
Off we went to change terminals, grab a well-deserved meal, and board our fifth flight to Makassar.
Little side note: I struggled for a while trying to book domestic flights directly on the airlines’ websites with no luck. Without meaning to advertise (though I guess I am a little), I realized it’d be easier to use sites like tiket.com or Traveloka. That turned out to be a great choice—I even ended up booking hotels through them later in the trip.
12:40 PM: We were on our way to Makassar. First good news: we were the only tourists. Well, the only European tourists on the flight, anyway.
No, you’re not dreaming—the bag is full of... potato chip packets.
To each their own souvenirs, I guess...
When we arrived in Makassar, a driver was waiting to take us straight to Rammang Rammang: 250,000 IDR (12 €) to our guesthouse (Rammang Rammang House). Forget about meeting people on the bus—we were headed straight to the first stop of our trip, and it was already stunning.
My kids’ guesthouse:
Ours:
View of the little lake:
But not everything is straightforward around here.
I wanted to get a local SIM card for internet and calls. I found them expensive at Jakarta’s airport (20 € for 20 GB), so I decided to wait. Well, no luck in Rammang Rammang either. You can’t just buy one from the local shop—you need a Telkomsat store (they have the best coverage). So we’d have to wait for Rantepao to get Wi-Fi... When I say "local shop," I mean the little shack around the corner. No big deal—we’d find one easily in Rantepao for 5 € and 25 GB. So there we were, offline, just the four of us enjoying the amazing view.
Saturday 07/11: Rammang Rammang
We woke up early to the sound of wedding music blasting through the village (everyone’s invited!). Off we went to explore the area.
A little walking, a little boat ride (shared with a French tourist and a Polish one—yes, there *are* tourists here, just not many; 750,000 IDR for up to 8 people) through a lovely canal, and we discovered the karst site. It was peaceful and beautiful.
The river:
The karst site:
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
A little sneak peek?
The karst site:
