Review of a Norway cruise on the Emerald Princess in June 2025 (1) (page 5 of 7)

Saturday, June 28, Trondheim (part 4)

We continue our stroll along the country path that runs beside the Nidelva River.





A new footbridge invites us to cross the river. The sky is darkening again, offering us lovely color contrasts.





Beautiful houses line the riverbanks, and the sky grows even darker.





We then walk through a neighborhood of grand, elegant buildings before reaching the promenade along the harbor.



The sky keeps darkening, the wind picks up, and waves begin to form and foam. This time, it’s not rain but sea spray that soaks us.





to be continued...

Saturday, June 28, Trondheim (Part 5)

The Emerald Princess is listing noticeably from the wind while docked.

Two hours later, with the help of a tugboat, we set off for two days at sea before our next stop in Edinburgh.

Once again, the captain addresses the passengers directly. We’ll face strong winds during the 6-hour navigation through the fjords, lasting until around midnight. Things will get trickier after that when we reach the North Sea. The winds are expected to ease up tomorrow afternoon. That’s the plan.

Little bags start appearing at the bottom of the staircases.

Meanwhile, sailing through the fjords during dinner (even if the ship lists a bit) is still stunning, despite the mist, and we’re making the most of it.





Tonight’s buffet specialty is Shrimp Fra Diavolo (pasta and prawns).

It seems lessons were learned from the paella night—plates are now being filled by a server. Once again, this specialty dish is really good.

As we move toward the exit of the fjord, the wind picks up, waves grow choppier, clouds gather, and the sky darkens.

Might as well go to sleep while the storm passes.

Phew, it's working again—I was worried I'd miss out on the storm 😕 Whoa, it's rocking even at the dock! This city is pretty when it's not raining 😎 Thanks, Catherine, for sharing all these great (and not-so-great) moments 🙂

Hi Catherine,

The storm did arrive as predicted, but I still don’t get why they warn passengers 24 hours in advance? 😕 I really loved Trondheim—along with Molde, those were the two most welcoming and pleasant cities to explore, when it’s not pouring rain. 😉 See you later for the rest, if the system cooperates…

Sunday, June 29, at sea

"Welcome to the dance floor!" That’s how the maître d’ greets me at breakfast. And he’s spot-on! The floor is literally dancing under our feet, which I don’t mind at all—quite the opposite.

The night wasn’t too rough; we didn’t fall out of bed, just gently rocked.

This morning, the sky is overcast, and the sea is gray with some nice swells, but nothing alarming or out of the ordinary. Every now and then, the ship shudders as if shaking itself off. Based on my experience, it’s far from the storm that was forecast.

What’s worrying us is our bill—those wrongly charged drink packages are still showing up. We complain again at reception, but they ask for two more days of patience. We’re not laughing anymore because disembarkation day is approaching, and after that, it’ll be too late.

After pushing back and hitting a wall of stubbornness, we hand them an exact list of our drinks with dates and plan to go back this afternoon.

Two hours later, after an info session in the theater about our next stop in South Queensferry (Edinburgh), we’re pleasantly surprised to find an updated bill in our cabin—without the packages! Phew!

But was it a gift? Or just a system glitch that couldn’t be reversed? The drinks we listed aren’t on the bill either.

The wind’s still blowing hard. It’s funny how a listing ship can put a smile on passengers’ faces and lift the mood on board.

The wind eases in the mid-afternoon, but the sea stays choppy. The clouds break, revealing patches of blue sky. We’re almost out of this rough patch, but it’s still too cold to sit outside. The hours stretch out slowly and eventually pass.

A lovely moment at the Irish Café, listening to music and singing over an apéritif. For years, we’ve known this bar as empty, sad, and freezing—no one ever went there. On this cruise, with live music, it’s packed. Sometimes, all it takes is the right touch.

And it continues—can’t post any more pictures for the rest of it....

System failures aren’t easy to deal with... What I loved about my two Princess cruises was the entertainment, especially the "British Isles" theme with a stop in Liverpool: two days of Beatles shows in the theater and atrium with an incredibly similar tribute band 🤵, plus Scottish and Irish groups matching the ports of call 👍

Hi Catherine,

We also really enjoyed the Beatles-themed activities during our cruise around the British Isles in 2014—they were great. On this cruise, though, it was the atmosphere and music of the Irish Café that won us over.

Hi Catherine, Thanks for the update, and I’m glad to hear things worked out with the unfairly charged package. The storm was a bit more “cool” than expected—good for everyone! Have a great day, and looking forward to your other photos and comments. Guylène

Thanks Guylène! Actually, the storm wasn’t too bad—or maybe our captain was a total champ who knew how to ride those waves just right to spare us any hassle. 😏 😉

I just tried again, and it’s still impossible to upload an image today... Maybe tomorrow?

Monday, June 30, at sea

Bright sunshine, calm sea, and mild temperatures this morning made this second day at sea very different from yesterday. Time for the deck chairs and sunbathing!

That is, until that pretty cloud with its unusual shape warned us of the arrival of many more… much less pleasant ones, and the bad weather that was about to set in. This was a test, and since it worked, I’ll post the rest this afternoon if all goes well...

Tuesday, July 1st, Edinburgh

During this stop, the ship docks at South Queensferry, about fifteen kilometers from Edinburgh. Disembarkation is done by launches and tourist boats—just like the other times, it’s perfectly orchestrated and very quick.

The bridge that allows the train to pass is stunning, but I find (with no chauvinism at all) that Monsieur Eiffel’s structures from the same era are lighter, more airy, and graceful.



A musical welcome during stops is becoming increasingly rare, so it’s all the more enjoyable when it happens.



I had planned to take a bus from the Slip Road stop to Edinburgh, but everything was already arranged—a double-decker bus was waiting for passengers right on the quay, just in front of the launch disembarkation point, for £25 round-trip.

We were dropped off on George Street, right in the city center, just steps away from the historic town. But that’s not what I had planned to see first. We’ve already been to Edinburgh a few years ago.

The neighborhood I’m interested in is Dean Village, an old and picturesque area just a short walk from the city center. We’re not far from it.

The history of Dean Village dates back to the 12th century, when it was mainly inhabited by millers. The village took advantage of the powerful currents of the Water of Leith river to operate its mills and grind grain to feed the growing population of Edinburgh, which at the time was limited to the Old Town.

Over the centuries, the mills kept turning, and Dean Village became a neighborhood of Edinburgh. By the 18th century, the village still had numerous factories and eleven mills, but urbanization and industrialization in the 19th century led to their decline and disappearance.

To explore it, we follow the Water of Leith, the small river that runs through Edinburgh and flows into the sea a few kilometers further on. This walk along the river is a true haven of peace in the heart of the city.







The first buildings of the village line both sides of the river rather sternly.





And the village reveals itself with its old buildings set in a charming, peaceful, green, and idyllic setting.







to be continued...

Tuesday, July 1st, Edinburgh (part 1 continued)

The village was renovated back in the 1970s. What a beautiful environment for the people who live here.



The walk continues along the river under the tall trees, with no one to disturb the serenity of the place at this hour. We don’t take the time to walk the full 4.5 km of the promenade to the sea—we’ll regret it later when we’re in the city crowds.



To reach the historic center of the city, we cross Princes Street Gardens at the foot of the castle. The gardener’s work, perched on a ladder to create this masterpiece, is truly admirable.



We arrive on the main street—the busiest shopping street leading up to the castle—via a staircase and a small passageway.

In front of the cathedral, a sea of people makes it hard to take photos. Entry to St Giles’ Cathedral is free. The stained glass is stunning, and the cathedral is beautifully highlighted by subtle lighting.



It’s magnificent, adorned with gorgeous fresh flower arrangements that have just been put in place.



The Old Town is a bit disappointing—all the activity is concentrated on the shopping street leading to the castle and its souvenir shops. The castle courtyard is cluttered with construction for temporary stands. It’s a bit chaotic, and there are way too many people for our taste, so we make a quick exit.



The city’s musical scene is lively and delightful—we encounter it in many places.



to be continued…

Tuesday, July 1st, Edinburgh (Part 2)

On our way back to the bus, we walk up Rose Street, the pub street in New Town. It comes alive in the evenings and on weekends, but at this hour, it’s deserted.



Two pubs are iconic in this neighborhood.

Open since 1859, the Dirty Dick’s bar is one of the smallest pubs in the city, with just a few tables and a tiny counter. The pub is known for its exuberant decor, made up of a collection of old objects—a real jumble that covers every nook and cranny. It’s even said you can barely see the walls because the decor is so abundant.

The pub gets its name from a real person, an 18th-century English merchant famous for never washing after the tragic death of his fiancée. His shop and warehouse quickly became known for their extreme filth, so much so that letters were addressed to "The Dirty Warehouse".

A local restaurateur later took up his story, decorating the pub with macabre relics (mummified rats, various remains) from his old warehouse, adding to the place’s eerie and unique atmosphere.



The Kenilworth is better known for its heritage value and prestigious interior. It’s one of the few island pubs in Edinburgh. It’s adorned with tiled walls, a monumental advertising mirror, and Art Nouveau stained glass.

Its name is inspired by the literature of Walter Scott. In the 1970s, it was one of the first "central street" bars accessible to the gay community.



But we won’t see any of it since both pubs, like all the establishments on the street, are closed.

We get on the bus and wait for it to fill up so we can leave. Between the ride and the time it takes for the tender to bring us back to the ship, it takes an hour and a half to return on board.

After the meal, we take the water shuttle for a quick visit ashore—we’re the only ones in the boat. I’d planned a hike along the shore, between nature and the sea, but with the gloomy, overcast sky, no sun, and low tide, the conditions aren’t ideal for enjoying a seaside walk.

Instead, we head toward the small village of South Queensferry, close to the dock where the tender drops us off and a place we don’t know yet.

And there, we discover a charming and picturesque little town with pretty colored houses and well-kept little gardens.





The walk is really pleasant—this village is a lovely discovery to end the afternoon.



Tonight, the ship is celebrating Canada Day. Four cocktails in the country’s colors are being offered for the occasion. Like everywhere, it feels like people are deaf with how loud the music is.

Hi Catherine, Your review reminds me of my layover in Edinburgh on Princess—I also ended up visiting that pretty village. One of the few days when the weather was rainy and cold, which is normal for this lovely city, unfortunately 😉

Hello everyone,

Once again, I can't download photos. I've had enough, and I'm wrapping up without the latest ones, which were just illustrations.

Wednesday, July 2nd, at sea

Our last day before disembarking, and the weather isn’t kind to us. We’re sailing through thick fog, and the ship’s horn blares regularly.

Packing our suitcases will keep us busy for part of the afternoon to pass the time. I’d have preferred a sunny day by the pool.

Finally, the sun decides to make an appearance at the very end of the day, just enough for us to catch a glimpse of the English coast on one side of the ship and the French coast on the other. It feels good to be on deck after these chilly, damp days, enjoying the last sunset of our cruise.

Thursday, July 3rd, disembarkation

A few treats are offered in the lounge where we have to wait to be called for disembarkation, in case we’re still hungry after breakfast.

Once again, the disembarkation is perfectly orchestrated—smooth and quick. We just walk through the lounge where we’re gathered.

But Princess has a little surprise for us... We’re not at Berth 46, the company’s usual dock where we boarded. We’re over 5 km away, well past the IKEA store for those who know the area. 😏

To be continued, the conclusion.

Conclusion

We wanted to see fjords and Norwegian landscapes, and we were spoiled beyond our expectations. We had plenty of scenic cruising in the fjords, which we fully enjoyed and greatly appreciated. The itinerary was superb, very well balanced between days at sea and numerous stops.

Nature is truly the best and most beautiful thing in this country—the landscapes are stunning. I wanted to take this cruise at the start of the season when rivers, waterfalls, and runoff are abundant, and it was the right choice. This abundance of water everywhere enriches and magnifies the scenery.

During excursions or transfers, replacing guides with audio recordings makes the trip boring—it strips the experience of all its depth and humanity. Treating travelers as a product to exploit and herding them like cattle shows deep disdain.

The welcome, in general, seemed quite cold to me. Most of the Norwegians we crossed paths with or met (if not almost all) didn’t strike me as very cheerful or welcoming. Only some of those who work in tourism make an effort to be friendly, and even then, not all of them. Hikers are rarely pleasant, and politeness seems absent from their way of life.

This cruise is an excellent way to see a beautiful and large part of southern to northern Norway on a reasonable budget. It cost us 2400 € per person for 16 nights in a balcony cabin after discounts from Croisiland. A land trip would have been much more expensive in this country, where everything is very pricey and the quality of welcome is minimal.

This cruise also allowed us to make the most of the beautiful fjord cruising. You’d need to budget between 100 and 200 € per person for a short cruise on a tourist boat in the fjords. Nothing compares to our organized aperitifs on our terrace while the landscape passed before our eyes.

If I ever return to this country, it will be in winter to see the landscapes covered in ice, but as you’ve gathered, it won’t be for the quality of the welcome.

About the cruise, the ship, and the company

Access to the restaurants in the evening is too long and tedious—there’s far too much waiting to get a table, too much waiting to be served, and the waiters are so overwhelmed and stressed that you feel like you’re bothering them despite their kindness. We’ve encountered this issue with Princess for years, and clearly, the company hasn’t managed to resolve it.

The staff is much less warm than at Celebrity or Oceania. But everyone is efficient and does their job very well. Tables are cleared and cleaned quickly.

The musicians—violins and double bass—that I loved so much have been replaced by a saxophonist and a pop singer, which I found much less appealing. But that’s a matter of taste.

In the evenings, a few musicians and a leather-clad singer provide loud rock music in the atrium. Far from the violin and double bass concerts that Princess used to favor just a few years ago. So many young artists have talent and know how to reinvent music for these instruments—it’s a shame. Fortunately, there was Celtic music at the Irish Cafe.

At Princess, cruising has become much more accessible. Many, many passengers are Chinese from American Chinatowns, and they have an unfortunate tendency to behave like buffet looters (smoked salmon, mango, candied ginger disappear very quickly). The company isn’t responsible for this and has no choice but to put up with it.

The languages on board are English, Chinese, and Spanish. No one at the reception spoke French on this ship. We met only one Mauritian waitress in a bar. She confirmed that there were only two people who spoke French on the entire boat. She was happy to chat a bit with the few French-speaking passengers.

Drinks are very expensive—a beer costs $9, a glass of Champagne $20. Wines range from $14 to $18 per glass. Cocktails go from $11 to $28, and they’re very sweet. A specialty restaurant costs $55 per person, but it can go up to $145 for certain occasions. All these prices are before tax.

The payment method on board is the Medallion, like the sea card used to be. At the start of the cruise, it allows the waiter with a connected tablet to recognize people placing orders by their photo. Later, you just need to give your cabin number to pay for your drinks.

A $12 cocktail I had appears on the bill as $16.50. Is that 37% in unannounced fees? Or did the waiter charge for another cocktail? There’s no way to know or verify with this system, which validates payments without a signature or receipt.

Another error slipped onto our bill after the wrongly charged packages were removed—a drink at the bar at 9 AM... That wasn’t us. We didn’t say anything since they offered us our drinks from the start of the cruise.

Errors are far too easy and frequent—three times just for us. The French people we met also had the issue of packages wrongly charged (problem resolved for them too). This payment system really isn’t reliable; you have to be very vigilant.

But the Medallion has many advantages beyond the payment system. When approaching the cabin, it recognizes us and unlocks the door—that’s really nice.

At disembarkation and embarkation at each stop, it makes the process quick and easy.

The organization for disembarking in tenders is very well done. I’ve never seen it handled so well on any other ship—no lines, no jostling, a disembarkation as smooth as docking at the pier. Fantastic.

The World Fresh Market’s opening hours are very broad, from 6 AM to 10 PM. On port days, lunch is often available until 5 PM.

Part of the café is privatized in the evening for paid meals.

The buffet is organized in islands like at Celebrity, which makes circulation easier and avoids crowding. Since the opening hours are very broad, we rarely saw too many people at once.

The buffet is as well-stocked at the start as at the end of service. Missing dishes are replaced before they’re completely empty—the organization is excellent.

What enchanted me the most during this cruise was the quality of the meals. A cuisine very different from what you usually find on most ships. We ate much better than on our last Oceania cruise in September 2023.

It’s fresh, healthy, and natural cuisine, without artificial flavors or preservatives—just know-how with fresh products and vegetables, prepared and cooked on site. The recipes are original and varied. Every day, new dishes appear with different flavors, vegetable dishes that are actually cooked (not just steamed, as is often the case), improbable salads, and regional cuisine from all over the world. Seafood dishes are always available, and without sulfites!!! (when in France, they make us believe it’s impossible).

The buffet was incredibly rich and diverse, and everything I tasted (a lot of things) was always very good.

The bread and pastries, however, weren’t the best quality.

The pizzas and ice cream by the pool were very, very good.

And the desserts... Though it’s not my weakness, I almost always took two, and only a few times... three . They were irresistible and delicious—light, melting, crispy... everything... and not too sweet.

Every meal was a delight. And would you guess? Our chef was English—so much for clichés!

On the last day of the cruise, we received information about dining on board. It confirmed everything I thought and wrote above. The products are fresh and cooked on board by 250 people who work to prepare the meals, and just as many others ensure the service.

We were surprised not to have "gratuities" or service fees (depending on the company) charged at the end of the cruise.

I didn’t expect much from this cruise beyond the Norwegian landscapes I wanted to discover. It turned out to be much better than I initially imagined. Not everything was perfect, but is it ever? The few hiccups we encountered were resolved, so I’m completely satisfied with this cruise, both for the itinerary and the ship, with a very good quality-to-price ratio. It was a nice surprise.

A big thank you to everyone who participated and left a little note.

Thank you so much for this cruise story and for the photos.

Hello, I read this Norwegian cruise story with a lot of pleasure and interest. Thanks for taking the time to share your trip! Aline

Hi Catherine, Your review reminded me of my stop in Edinburgh on Princess—I also ended up visiting that pretty village. One of the few days when the weather was rainy and cold, which is normal for this beautiful city, unfortunately 😉

Hi Catherine,

One of the great things about reviews is how they bring back all those good memories—mission accomplished. 😉