Northern Chile, Andean impressions. (page 6 of 10)

Arica is on the itinerary.😉 A little later ...

Bummer about the closed road and the traveler’s diarrhea. 🏴‍☠️ Over the past few weeks, I’ve read a ton of blogs and travel journals about Peru, and I’m still surprised when I see photos of what tourists are eating—raw veggies, green salads, ice cream for dessert… In Bolivia, we were strongly advised against eating raw vegetables and unpasteurized dairy.

The landscapes of the Altiplano are stunning, and we also loved that feeling of being alone in the world. Anyway, your photos make me want to go there!

And then, I don’t know if you can ever get used to the nights. I feel like you never sleep well above 3,500m. No headaches, easier to walk, sure. But sleep?

Oh, but you *can* sleep well at high altitude—I promise! I slept like a baby above 4,000m. 😛 Hopefully, I’ll still handle the altitude in Peru. You never know…😕

I think you mentioned it somewhere, but I can’t be bothered to look it up. 😛 What kind of car did you have? A 4x4?

In Peru, 4x4 prices have skyrocketed since 2020. I find it’s getting really, really expensive, and rentals often come without good insurance for theft or accidents.

For Chile, the food is usually pretty safe. It’s just bad luck—this could’ve happened anywhere.

For the car, we had an SUV with an automatic 4x4 system.

I wouldn’t choose this kind of vehicle in Botswana or even on the 4x4 tracks in KTP.

It’s more of a vehicle for simple trails with a few rocks, some sand, and a bit of water—just so you don’t have to worry about damaging the undercarriage!

Apart from the sandy climb at Tara, this vehicle was fine on all the tracks we took.

For Chile, food is usually pretty safe. It was just bad luck, something that could’ve happened anywhere.

I need to look into Peruvian food a bit more. A nasty bout of traveler’s diarrhea can really ruin a trip.

Thanks for the car info.

The duo is definitely feeling better this morning!

We decide to take advantage of this beautiful day to explore the Codpa mission route all the way to Belén.

It’s possible to reach the Surire Salt Flat from this road, but that would mean climbing to over 4,000 meters in altitude again.

Not very reasonable! We’re giving up on the charms of the Altiplano for good.

First, we stop to admire the *Presencias Tutelares*, a set of reinforced concrete and clay sculptures honoring the memory of the region’s first inhabitants.



Then, we hit the road for many kilometers on small, winding, and deserted routes.



Where there’s a mission route, there are churches...

Here’s one coming up—Cobija’s church!



I don’t know where the parishioners are, but it’s clearly not around here...



We do run into a few encounters along the way, but they’re more four-legged than two-legged...



A few fertile valleys break up this semi-desert, and a few villages gather the few souls still wandering the pre-cordillera.





If you love timeless vibes, Route A 31 is made for you!

Belén is now welcoming us.



The two churches in the village are absolutely adorable, but like everywhere, they’re closed...

And don’t count on a villager to open the doors for us—there aren’t any villagers to begin with...

I think I’ve never passed through so many almost ghost towns as I have in this country!







Arghhh! My battery is dead again! My camera is censored!

Fortunately, we’ve reached our halfway point, and I still have my smartphone...

On the way there, we didn’t pass through Codpa.

On the way back, we take a detour to discover this little town with its surprising location between a canyon and an oasis.





Codpa sits at just over 1,800 meters above sea level and has a few lodging options and places to eat.

A great stop to avoid altitude effects while not descending too far!

Unfortunately, the town doesn’t have a gas station, so you’ll need to bring a few jerry cans if you plan to continue toward Surire and Lauca Park.





Night had fallen by the time we returned to Arica.

This is our last evening in Chile—tomorrow, we cross the border! !

The landscapes are still just as stunning, but hey Agnès, do you have a map of your itinerary? 😇 I don’t know the region at all (even virtually—I was more focused on the NOA) and I’ll admit I’m struggling to follow along 🤪

Hi Agnès, Those photos are stunning! Thanks for sharing these landscapes that moved me so much. The lack of gas stations is a real deal-breaker for me. I’m dying to wander around the Lauca Altiplano, but I can’t picture myself hauling jerrycans of fuel. Such a shame—Putre village would’ve been the perfect starting point if there was a Copec nearby. This is a total deal-breaker. Too bad. Looking forward to your next post 🙂. Whis

I still have plenty left on my photo quota for the maps! 😉 I’ll add them very soon.

Hey Gigi,

Yeah, gas is a real issue. Locals sell it on the Altiplano, but you can never be sure if the gas is actually gas and the diesel is actually diesel... Not sure the supplies will be there when you need them either!

We bought a jerry can for Putre. Normally, that was enough for the planned route.

Since the car was big, it fit in the trunk without any problem.

No smell in the cabin.

I really like illustrated travel journals like yours 😇😉

You’re gonna make friends for sure! 😏

I agree about needing a map—it’s on my to-do list too … And since I’m more into comics than classics, I’m all for the photos too! !

Thanks, Kate! 😉

I really like illustrated travel journals like yours 😇😉

Me too, I love the photos 😉 Plus, you saw, there are white buildings

Oh yeah, there are tons! 😛

The route maps have been added to the first post of the travel journal. 🙂

Thanks Agnès! :)

We booked our taxi transfer for 5:00 PM, the same time we’re returning the car keys.

That leaves us a full day to explore Arica, a major port city at the crossroads of Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.

Thanks to its eternally spring-like climate, Arica is also a top-tier beach resort—though personally, its beaches don’t do much for me.

We start by walking to the Scorpion Peninsula, a paradise for surfers and spectators alike, with its powerful waves.



The tetrapods installed to tame the Pacific’s energy serve as canvases for the more or less wild imagination of local artists.



We leave the port to our left and continue toward Playa Tortuga.



What a gloomy sight under this leaden sky!

I’m not sure the sun would improve things much, given how dirty this beach is...

A quick stop at Mall Plaza Arica, the biggest shopping center for hundreds of kilometers around, and we head back toward the city center.

The fog has finally lifted, making the walk much more enjoyable!

The shopping streets are lively and way more appealing to travelers than a generic mall...



We soon catch sight of the San Marcos Cathedral.



This building shares something in common with Saigon Central Station and the Statue of Liberty: Gustave Eiffel!



Time’s ticking—we head back to the hotel to grab our luggage and the car.



Everything in the trunk?

Perfect!

Before leaving Chile for good, we make one last detour to admire the view from the top of El Morro, a rocky formation towering 130 meters over Arica.





The airport area is deserted—no flights taking off or landing for hours.

We leave the car in the parking lot, keys in the designated box, and transfer our suitcases into the taxi that arrived right on time.

The border is just a few kilometers away, and we cross it in about fifteen minutes, with our driver helping us through the formalities.

We check that our smartphones adjusted to the time change (one hour less this season) and share our first impressions of this new country.

The driving is more aggressive, the scenery less lush, and the streets of Tacna feel a bit chaotic as our ride weaves through them.

Night falls as the driver drops us off at the door of our hotel.

The room is clean, quiet, and comfortable—an excellent value for money!

Speaking of prices, we’ve suddenly become rich... While Chile is a fairly expensive destination, Peru is a budget-friendly country!

See you tomorrow for our visit to Tacna...