Northern Chile, Andean impressions.
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Translated into English.

Original post
AT
Alright, this year, we're heading back to South America!

The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.

Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.

So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!

Not to Argentina, though...

Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!

In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.

Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.

Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?

Are the driver’s license and passport ready?

Bank cards and a few euros too?

Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!



--/--

To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!

1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco

2- Around San Pedro



3- From San Pedro to Cariquima



4- From Cariquima to Putre



5 - From Putre to Arica



Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.
WH Whiskette Regular ·
Yes! Can't wait to read this travel journal. I'm itching to head to Arica and Putre too after my trip to SPA a few years back.

Vamos Agnès! 😉
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hey Gigi

Welcome to this travel journal that should bring back lots of memories since the loop goes down to SPA! 🙂
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
The longest non-stop flight operated by Air France lasts 50,400 seconds—feel free to do the quick math—and its destination is Chile.

And that’s exactly where we’re headed...

Let’s just say we can’t wait to get out of the cabin!

Phew, the captain announces our upcoming landing.

Phew, the cabin doors open.

Phew, we can finally escape the worst kind of confinement: economy class on any airline!

Airports are actually well designed to stretch your legs efficiently after hours of sitting still: endless corridors, infinite staircases that remind any Parisian traveler of a connection at Châtelet-Les Halles metro station—with the added joy of walking.

Just a few more steps and we’re outside, breathing in the rather cool air—it’s winter in the Southern Hemisphere.

The bus to the city center seems to be waiting just for us. We pay the 3,800 pesos for two tickets—another quick calculation for you, divide by a thousand—and the journey begins...

The outskirts fly by, then our stop is announced. Time to take the metro.

Fifteen minutes later, we’re in the upscale neighborhood of Providencia, where our hotel is located.

We chose the Solace for its proximity to public transport and the Santiago cable car. Plus, the area is very safe, and plenty of restaurants are within walking distance.

Speaking of restaurants, how about lunch?

A shower, a meal, a nap—night will be here soon.

We’re going for a stroll in the Metropolitan Park to watch the sun set over the city’s skyscrapers.



If the sky is clear, we might even see the Andes!



Energized after this stunning view, we head out for dinner at a Peruvian restaurant.

The Pisco Sour is a bit strong...



Between the cocktail and the jet lag, I’ll be asleep as soon as my head hits the pillow! 😴
FA FamilleUS Veteran ·
We're also boarding right now... And taking off from Aulnat is a habit for us too!

AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hey Manu,

Yeah, it's super convenient to leave from Aulnat! Unfortunately, I don’t do it often because, with no competition, the tickets are usually really expensive. And the parking too... So, Lyon usually wins out! 😊
DO Dolma Globetrotter ·
A travel journal with energetic and often hilarious writing—it’s off to a great start! I’m totally feeling the energy with you, and traveling under these conditions sounds amazing. I’m in!

Looking forward to the next installments of your adventures—can’t wait! 🙂
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hey Dolma,

Welcome to the cable car soaring over Santiago while we wait for some seriously desert-like landscapes...😉
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hope you're all full of energy this morning because today promises to be an active one!

First, we head to the cable car station, which will effortlessly take us up to Cerro San Cristóbal.

A bit early—nothing’s open yet...

So we wait in the wind and cold for the machinery to start up.

The line grows behind us, mostly locals for this leg...

Then, the staff springs into action, the cabin ballet begins, and the first passengers set off.



Through the plexiglass, a stunning panorama of the city and snow-capped peaks unfolds.

It’s always fun to take this mode of transport for something other than skiing!



We get off at the end of the line and start the short walk that leads us to the foot of the Sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception.



The Virgin Mary statue crowning the hill is certainly impressive, but at 22 meters tall, it looks tiny next to the giants built in other countries in the region: 38 meters for the Christ the Redeemer in Rio, 45 meters for another Virgin in Oruro!



It’s Sunday, and an open-air mass is taking place. Few participants, despite Chile’s still-strong religious influence...

We slip away quietly and set off in search of the trail that leads to Barrio Bellavista.

Non-walkers and the lazy can take the funicular back down...



Barrio Bellavista is famous for its murals.

But it really comes alive in the evening...

The streets are pretty deserted this late morning, making this usually vibrant neighborhood feel a bit gloomy.





Aren’t you hungry?

We cross the Mapocho River toward the livelier Lastarria Street, hoping to find something to satisfy us.

It’s a little early—terraces are just setting up.

One agrees to take us in, and we recharge in the sun.

The morning’s icy chill is now just a distant memory; it almost feels like spring.

I could’ve stayed longer to work on my tan, but we haven’t finished our grand tour of Santiago!

Where to next?

The market!

The indoor stalls are overflowing with fish and seafood, and we struggle to name them all...

Hawkers try to convince us to have a second lunch.

No luck!



We now wander through the city center, which doesn’t have much to offer...

It’s worth noting that an earthquake largely destroyed the city in 1647, and the upscale neighborhoods developed on the northeast outskirts of the agglomeration.



Let’s explore the steep paths of Cerro Santa Lucia instead.

From the top of the hill, more views of the capital await us.

A sea of buildings, whose main charm is their location at the foot of the Andes.



Our legs are starting to protest. We take the metro before they go on strike...

Off to the hotel for a well-deserved night of rest!
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Hi Agnes! From Santiago to Lima, even in a pseudo 4x4, I’m totally in!!
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hey Bruno,

The 4x4 nickname is big enough to take on a few more passengers! 😉
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
The flight booked to Arica only leaves in the afternoon.

So we’ve got a few hours to kill before heading to the airport.

How about we check out the Los Dominicos craft center?

A few metro stops later, we’re wandering the alleys of this village of adobe shops built in the old-fashioned way.

It’s cute but not exactly mind-blowing! The promised workshops mostly look like a string of souvenir shops...

The lovely San Vicente de Ferrer church right next door is far more interesting.





I would’ve liked to buy an alpaca sweater or blanket, but the prices are pretty steep and the style isn’t really my thing.

So we’re coming back empty-handed from our shopping trip.

We grab lunch in town and then hop back on the metro and bus to get to the airport.

Domestic terminal this time!

There are only a few flights a day to Arica, and unfortunately, none at my preferred times.

Between evening and dawn (meaning the last part of the night...), the choice was easy.

That’s the challenge of traveling in Chile: the country is stretched out lengthwise, and it takes over 6 hours of flying (or 60 hours by car!) to get from the far south to the far north.

If you don’t have weeks of vacation, you’ve got to take domestic flights or overnight buses.

I’m rambling, I’m rambling...

Gotta fill the time because punctuality doesn’t seem to be SKY’s strong suit.

Oh, our flight’s announced! Let’s board quickly!

Almost 3 hours later, we land in Arica.

We send a message to the driver booked through the hotel, and his car shows up right away.

In 30 minutes, we’re in our room, where we’ll sleep lulled by the sound of the waves.



Good night!
FA FamilleUS Veteran ·
Atacama is calling! Quick, quick, let's hit the road...
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Gonna have to wait a bit for San Pedro though
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
In the morning, the Pacific reveals itself in its gray-sky setting.

It smells of sea spray, a brisk, salty breeze whetting our appetite.



The taxi soon drops us off at the airport where we’ve booked a rental car for 09:00.

Wait, no one’s here to greet us???

Arica isn’t a major airport, and activity only happens in the early hours or in the evening.

Car rental agency staff are only around during landing times...

So, we have to call to get someone to open up!

After a few numbers, the documents and signs aren’t always up to date, but we finally manage to reach Europcar.

It’s a bit tricky to get an English speaker on the line, but everything works out in the end!

Ten minutes later, an employee rushes in and quickly hands us the keys to our vehicle—a nearly new white Mazda.

The car has an automatic 4x4 function and decent ground clearance.

Most importantly, it’s allowed on the secondary roads marked as unpaved tracks, which is why we chose it.

The suitcases are in the trunk—did you set the route on the GPS?

Let’s go!



First, we head to a supermarket to pick up some supplies for picnics.

The selection isn’t great when it comes to quality charcuterie or cheese, but that’s not unique to Chile...

With the groceries packed, we leave the city heading south on the country’s longest road—the impressive Route 5!

The ribbon of asphalt cuts through the desert, allowing mining trucks to transport their loads of iron, gold, lithium, molybdenum, silver, and especially copper.

It climbs, it dips, it curves, it stretches straight...



Villages are few and far between—you can count them on one hand—and gas stations are even rarer...



Here and there stand imposing statues, modern representations of Chinchorro mummies—a semi-nomadic pre-Columbian people who lived in northern Chile millennia before our era.



Scattered around are traces of the past—geoglyphs and petroglyphs that aren’t always easy to spot despite their size...



We’re now at the junction for Iquique.

Traffic picks up, houses multiply, and the desert gives way to a touch of green—the oasis of Pica isn’t far now!



We settle into the cabin we booked and then go out for dinner.

Tomorrow, we’re tackling the cordillera, heading for the Huasco salt flat! !
DO Dolma Globetrotter ·
Tomorrow we’re heading into the mountains

You haven’t arrived yet, since December 6th ? True, taking your time while traveling is really nice, but still ...
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Busy with a training course and researching for upcoming trips! The travel journal should be back on track soon. 😉
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Pica sits at 1,325 meters above sea level, while the pass separating us from the salt flat reaches around 4,200 meters.

So, we’re about to test our resistance to altitude sickness for the first time on this trip.

The 70 kilometers ahead are a mix of paved roads and dirt tracks. Nothing too complicated!



However, like everywhere in Chile, the roadsides are dotted with crosses—a grim reminder of reckless driving.

Yet, traffic is scarce, very scarce. As long as you don’t floor the accelerator and yield to animals, you’ll arrive at your destination in one piece.



A mix of white and blue stands out against the gray and ochre.

The lagoon?



A few sharp turns bring us closer to our goal, and soon we can admire the stunning Salar de Huasco.



Beyond the mountains lies Bolivia, accessible via the Cancosa Bella Vista border crossing.

Do these llamas need a passport to cross that border?

Let’s ask them...

Oh, no need to run away! We just wanted to capture your beautiful silhouettes!



I don’t think these woolly camelids are used to tourists yet—that’s probably why they’re so skittish.

Now we’re circling the lagoon: about 40 kilometers of dirt tracks.



The landscapes are breathtaking for those who love semi-desert vibes.

Not many people around, apparently—we didn’t cross paths with anyone.

Chile’s Andean region remains a niche destination, except around San Pedro de Atacama.

Accommodations are scarce, public transport is pretty much nonexistent outside the Pan-American Highway, and prices are high.

That explains it...



A flock of pink bipeds is hiding in this photo.

Hard to get a better shot with my hybrid camera and its weak zoom...



We actually took a while to spot them!

It took a sudden takeoff for our eyes to catch the movement—and thus their presence.



Back at our starting point. The llamas, vicuñas, and flamingos have vanished.

All that’s left to wish us a safe return is this feathered couple!



Just like on the way there, it’s not exactly peak season for crowds.

How powerful that feeling of being alone in the world is!

Especially in such a magnificent setting.

Oh, a car! Pica can’t be far now...

We walk around the village, which isn’t exactly buzzing with activity.

Maybe on weekends?

We still find an open restaurant, and I once again surrender to the intoxicating charm of the Pisco Sour...

The signature drink of this trip? 😛
TH Thierry6789 Veteran ·
Lovely photos, they bring back great memories—thanks for posting them!

Last time I passed through the area, between Pica and the Huasco salt flat, there were quite a few sandy patches that were pretty tough to navigate. Back then, it was easier to head down from the salt flat toward Pica than the other way around. Looks like the road/track is in better shape now.

Around Pica, there are fossilized dinosaur tracks. If you’ve got time, check them out. Also, don’t miss the *cocha*/natural municipal pool—it’s totally worth it. There’s also the Chintaguay waterfall, which is really impressive but a bit hard to reach.

And finally, in this region, you’ve got to try the *maracuya sour* and *tumbo sour*—two local specialties. You won’t be disappointed!

Cheers! !
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Thanks for all these additional sightseeing ideas for future travelers! 😉

I don’t know if the track has been improved since, but when I passed through, there wasn’t any problem. Maybe the season also affects the condition of the Andean "roads"? (Trip in June)

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