Walks in the Kingdom of Siam (page 6 of 11)

good evening simply magnificent kenavo

It rained all night, and it doesn’t look like it’s going to stop at daybreak. The mood is gloomy, and we’re a little worried about our meet-up with the pachyderms.



At the reception, Katie reassures us. Katie is one of the two American caretakers who work here year-round. This charming young woman explains that an employee has gone to check where the elephants are. When they’re let out of their enclosure, they roam freely across the vast property. Regularly, volunteers plant trees or plants in certain areas to provide food for them.

Once the elephants are located, we’re taken to join them. We’re clearly told we must stay in observer mode—don’t approach them, but let them come to us. No sudden noises, no flash.

On-site, each mahout stays close to their elephant, just in case one of them is in a bad mood. The rain gets lighter and then stops after a few minutes. The only break in the weather today was for our first visit with the elephants—luck was on our side.

As soon as we arrive, one of them comes to sniff us, starting with Françoise. Phew, inspection passed! Out of the 13 elephants at the resort, 10 are here. We watch them tear up their food, shake it in the air, or slap it against their legs to clean and wring it out. They’re so close that we sometimes get splashed in the face. They flap their ears and wag their tails—that’s a good sign, meaning they’re happy. When they decide to walk past us, we step aside politely. It’s not that we’re scared—it’s just manners.

They drag their chains with them, and they won’t have any at all once funding is secured to build a fence around the entire property. For now, they still need to be kept from wandering into the surroundings, especially at night. Without the clinking of the chains, it would actually be harder to find them in this vast space. There’s one who’s smarter than the others—he knows how to undo his chains. One day, he took off and helped himself to a local farmer’s mango trees, and they had to compensate the farmer. So now, they’ve put a bell on him to keep track of where he’s wandering.

Before our fascinated eyes, they play, rub against trees, and pull up bushes whenever they feel like it. There’s also a young male practicing his moves, chasing after a female who isn’t having any of it.















Two hours flew by without us even noticing. It’s time to bring everyone back to the shelter. The elephants walk ahead, and we follow. We assume it’s so they don’t step on us if we slow down.

Katie tells us that in the early afternoon, a bus of middle schoolers from various Asian countries will arrive—of course, we’ll be tempted to stick around.

After a short informational talk, the elephants will be brought out to enjoy some treats and splash around in the watering hole.

Despite the rain picking up again, we decide to give it a try. The café by the pond is packed—there are photographers and a cameraman, and we might end up on TV!

Joel has the idea to ask Katie if we can join the mahouts by the pond, because between the rain and the café full of schoolkids, there’s no way we’d get any good shots. She doesn’t hesitate for a second and spontaneously decides to come with us. We’re in the front row, especially since some of the elephants decide to splash around and play right by the corner of the pond where we’re set up, under a simple shelter made of palm leaves. We completely forget about the rain—it actually suits these big guys perfectly.









While Joel is filming, we hear Katie say, "I should film this too—my parents and friends would love to see it!"

That same evening, we get the idea to call Katie through reception.

Seeing elephants in their natural habitat is something truly special—I dream of watching them play in the water! 🙂

Amazing! You were so close!!

You're teasing me! That was the moment when we were the farthest apart...

There was a moment when we just had to jump out of the way because one of them changed course and decided to walk right where we were standing. The mahouts and caretakers don’t seem relaxed when we end up too close. These elephants are starting to do pretty much whatever they please on these walks.

Okay, closer then?

https://youtu.be/zMbQv8sv53g

Okay, not too close though, they're big critters 😉.

Seeing elephants in their natural habitat is something extraordinary—I dream of watching them play in the water 🙂

https://youtu.be/V4iGQrNnBz8

Thanks so much, Joel! It’s such a pleasure to see these incredible images of the temples, waterfalls, and markets... oh, it makes me want to go back so badly! :)

I didn’t quite catch which province you traveled to this time after leaving Bangkok?

I’m looking forward to the rest... videos are a great idea too—so lively! :)

I see that the price of bananas and pineapples is at rock bottom (10 baht). :)

Best, Deborah

Your input is interesting in more ways than one.

But first, let me say, Deborah, that it’s really you who deserves thanks. Both for encouraging those who share their travel journals and for the enthusiasm you bring to answering users’ questions about various destinations.

As I add moments and days, I’m discovering the structure of this journal myself—it’s not all carefully planned in advance. Françoise and I tend to go with the flow, and luck plays a part in whether things come together or not. This year, I’ve noticed that moving images seem to be appreciated, and I think when used appropriately, they add a lot to the whole experience. We’re a bit proud to have been among the first to combine text, photos, and videos to create an enriched journal—at least in this proportion. It’s probably more comfortable for the reader to have less text and more visuals. It’s also easier for the writer not to have to list a ton of names, places, ways to get there, and various tips. I’ve already shared more than my fair share of detailed information. It’s time to pass the baton to other brave souls. Let me gather my (handwritten) messy notes, and I’ll get back to you with a personalized response in the next few days—promise!

Otherwise, just to clarify, fruit prices have always been at rock bottom...outside tourist areas. 🙂

In the morning, just before our departure, Katie shows up at our chalet as planned. She managed to borrow a drive from her colleague where she’ll load all our videos with the elephants. She’ll find a way to edit the clips, stitch them together, and compress them. It’s crazy to think this opportunity comes up for her dozens of times a year, but she simply never dared ask, and no one ever offered. When you realize how small gestures that cost nothing but a little time can bring so much joy. We’re thrilled imagining how happy this young woman was to send these videos to her loved ones.

We notice the rivers have swelled significantly from the rain. There’s real power and scale to them.





We can’t ignore one of Thailand’s most sacred temples. Especially since there’s a museum there. It’s neither practical nor pleasant to take off our sandals on rain-soaked tiles, but we don’t have a choice. The temple dates back to the 14th century, and its doors were installed in 1756. Inside, we discover a 700-year-old Buddha.





























We’re lucky to stumble upon a small restaurant specializing in soups and noodles, which lives up to its reputation.



In the evening, we enjoy high-quality food with a homemade taste, served very generously. At first, we’re puzzled that the place looks half-restaurant, half-karaoke bar, but it’s early, and we’re the only customers. Still, several girls serve us, dressed as if they’re heading to a nightclub. They’re very attentive, though, and quite interested in us Westerners.

Here’s one of our buddies we’re happy to see again: his deep rattle followed by playful, varied, and elaborate whistles. Very smart.

Very clever.



To snatch food, like the birds in AFS?

I've fallen a bit behind on reading this amazing travel journal. But it's always a pleasure to discover even more photos and anecdotes!

I can't wait to hit the road again!! And to go observe elephants myself!

We take our time visiting two more temples, because we’ve had enough of all these waterfalls.

In the first one, we’re pretty surprised when a very friendly head monk wants to pose alone with each of us in front of the main Buddha. Photos we take with his phone, then. We’re even more surprised when he pulls out a kind of large wallet and gives each of us one of the many stone amulets he’s carrying. If Buddha himself is willing to give us a little gift...









The second temple features original murals, a sizable chedi, an old ritual boat, and even a mini-museum with a few priceless treasures.



















A cute little Thai girl spends the afternoon by the pool at the same time as us. While we swim, rest, and chat, she spends her time taking selfies. I look at myself, adjust my bangs, admire myself, change positions, change the background, change clothes, and when that’s not enough, she calls over an employee to take a photo of her in a swimsuit with her feet in the water. But just her feet. The ins and outs escape us, and sometimes that’s for the best. In many hotels, lots of Asians come to take photos in front of the pool but don’t dare to actually jump in. Well, they were there, at least...

In the evening, we go back to the same restaurant. The food is still just as good, but the girls are dressed even sexier than the night before. One of them, though a bit plump, has undeniable charm. What’s most striking is how quick-witted she is. In fact, she’s studied all the way through university. By the way, which Thais can give you the total in French, saying: "five hundred seventy"? Tonight, she doesn’t seem nearly as cheerful as the day before. That’s all it takes for us to deduce that today, she’d gladly be doing something other than her current job. More generally, it’s sad to see so often that people have to settle for work that’s far below (or far from) their intellectual abilities. Let’s console ourselves by saying it’s also the case for us—or quite the opposite for some (deliberately cryptic and mysterious words, since this year seems to be the year of mystery)...

Oh, right—today we saw our buddy again. Guarding the ramparts requires sharp attention and intense concentration:

We’re returning to a destination we adore. So much so that we moved up our plans—originally set for one of the following years.

As expected, the reunion was absolutely delightful, and those few days there gave us an enormous sense of well-being. We won’t dive into the personal stories that ultimately belong to our private sphere.

Our first day of exploration starts with a visit to a bonsai designer’s domain. He works on a large scale, supplying both communities and private individuals. The prices are negligible compared to what we’re used to back home. Yet, you can admire stunning specimens, some decades old, that would cost a pretty penny to own.



Our hostess knows we have a soft spot for abandoned temples entwined in the roots of thriving trees. This one sits by the river in a village. We’re quickly approached by a teacher who insists her students recite their lesson for us. It all feels very memorized without much understanding, but you can’t help but appreciate their efforts toward self-improvement and the innocence with which it’s presented.



















Leaving the village, a farmer stops with his pickup truck packed with pineapples. Two for 30 baht—we grab them on the fly...

Off to a dazzling temple! Under a thousand lights, families make their offerings and take endless photos.















In the Kingdom of Siam, along countless rivers, restaurants have set up their floating platforms. It’s lovely to have lunch there, like a big local fish. Most river fish are excellent; the one priced at 300–400 baht with its sweet-salty-spicy sauce is a must-try.

We enjoy a massive Saturday night market in a town tourists don’t usually visit. It’s much more local, with sections for DIY, antiques, and clothing, plus the usual food stalls. The crowd is insane—it seems like the whole province turned up. We end up exhausted.

The temple isn't as abandoned as it seems—there's a Buddha inside with someone praying!

Yeah, I mentioned this in last year’s travel journal. Some temples haven’t been restored because restless spirits lurk there. During the day, devotees will still venture in to say a quick prayer. A place remains sacred forever.

Our first day of discoveries starts with a foray into the domain of a bonsai designer.

Doi Ang Khang?

We’re enjoying a huge Saturday night market in a small town tourists don’t visit.

Trok Rong Ya?

The Master’s interest having been piqued, where do his thoughts wander now?