Biking (MTB) along the Canal between the Two Seas (France) (page 7 of 16)

Hi Facteur4! 😉

Thanks for your message with the photos... really interesting! I can't wait to be there because it's been 4 years since I last went to the Canal du Midi.

It's still so sad to see those condemned trees 🙁... Let's hope the region's tourism interest will save the Canal du Midi for the next few decades. It's a heritage site that needs to be maintained so future generations can enjoy the place.

PS: I don't know how to delete the "forwarded" and therefore useless message. If you could explain...

Anyway... maybe, with luck, we'll cross paths next week.

Cheers.

When you're logged in to VoyageForum, you can Reply to other members' messages. Plus, you can Edit your own posts (even old ones). Just select and delete the unnecessary part, then click Save Changes.

The state, through VNF, is gradually abandoning the maintenance of the canal, letting it silt up. [...] It’s time to put an end to the UMP’s shady dealings (for example, giving a huge chunk of TV advertising revenue to private channels by banning ads after 8:30 PM on public channels).

For those interested, VNF’s status was established by the Rocard government and voted on by the Cresson government—two prime ministers with little connection to the UMP.

According to Wikimedia: "VNF is a public industrial and commercial establishment of the state, thus governed by private law"; this means the state (in short, us) doesn’t have as much control over this institution as it would if it were fully under state status.

If you want to criticize VNF, at least include these two pieces of info.

And who’s going to put VNF back under state control? Our UMP minister!

Another excerpt from Wikipedia: "On August 30, 2010, the Council of Ministers adopted a bill on the National Waterways Agency, presented by Nathalie Kosciusko-Morizet, Minister of Ecology, Sustainable Development, Transport, and Housing."

"This law is presented as aiming to modernize the public waterway service to make it more ‘competitive’ while meeting certain objectives of the Grenelle Environment Forum. It aims to contribute to modal shift by enabling a shift to waterways. It also aims to contribute to ‘sustainable development and land-use planning, particularly through the preservation of wetlands and the necessary measures to restore ecological continuity, flood prevention, heritage conservation, and the promotion of river tourism and nautical activities,’ or even by exploiting, ‘as a secondary activity and without harming navigation, hydraulic energy through installations or works located on the public domain mentioned in Article L. 4311-1 of this code, in application of Articles L. 511-2 or L. 511-3 of the Energy Code(...)’."

And VNF, regardless of its statutes, missions, or the government that establishes them, is not responsible for the spread of the colorado disease, the cost of replacing thousands of trees, the gradual decline in river traffic, or the physical laws governing sediment movement.

Moreover, the connection between the pleasant removal of evening ads and the colorado disease escapes me.

If you want to talk politics and push your rather subtle ideas on the matter ("It’s time to put an end to the UMP’s shady dealings"), there are plenty of forums for that—thanks. It’s all the more unfortunate because the other info you provided is very interesting. 😉

Have a good evening.

Thanks a bunch for getting me back on the right track.

And I’d like to congratulate Nathalie Kosciusko-Morizet for her work within the Grenelle Environment framework for public water management. However, many are disappointed by the limited impact of this Grenelle. Proof of this is the recent decision, just before the elections, to delay the implementation of measures against visual pollution from advertising billboards—even though it was approved by the Grenelle. This shows that, systematically, commercial interests take priority for the current government.

Sorry again for this detour off the towpath. In these tense times, let’s not mix politics and travel.

You nailed it with that nice play on words to wrap up the digression. Congrats!

As for the billboard story, putting partisan politics aside, it’s not great—we totally agree on that.

Apparently, it wasn’t due to government policy but rather the isolated action of a single MP who went against the government’s and assembly’s wishes, even defying the prefect’s order (i.e., the state) see here. This official preferred to keep the 200,000 € annual revenue for their town rather than ban ads on such a large scale.

Just to recap, the government had finally made the bold decision to ban billboards larger than 8 m² and had identified areas (near schools, etc.) where all ads would be prohibited. Local governments partly rely on the money these things bring in, so seeing MPs (regardless of their party) choose to reduce visual pollution—even at the cost of losing funding—was a pleasant surprise. And (another topic) neon signs left on all night? To me, that’s visual pollution *and* a waste of energy.

I’m really glad to see you’ve changed your mind about ads. I thought you missed them on public TV, but I’m happy to see you can’t stand them in urban landscapes either. On that, we’re on the same page.

Back to the topic: it’s great to inspire fellow cycle-travelers like us to take towpaths, whether they’re stony or paved. It lets you cover quite a few kilometers even if you’re not super confident in your physical abilities.

For now, I’m leaning toward the mountains (I love the landscapes, the views, the tranquility, and the solitude of wild spaces), but when I’m a few years older, I’ll revisit this idea.

Happy pedaling, good luck cutting greenhouse gas emissions, and vote wisely—whoever you choose.

Go vote on foot or by bike.

Thanks 8cx for the high quality of your info. Actually, I’m grateful to Nicolas Sarkozy for banning ads after 8:30 PM. When I’m still torn between two programs, I pick the one on public TV knowing I won’t have to sit through commercials. Even though France Télévisions’ programs are still formatted for ad breaks.

What bothers me is the reason behind that decision: funneling more cash to his buddies...

I also love hiking in the mountains. What gets me is how I get there. It’s tough to walk to the mountains from my place. Sure, there’s the train option. But since I don’t like hiking alone (unlike biking), the compromise is carpooling with coworkers for a weekend hiking trip in a small group.

Have a great citizen weekend, everyone.

Hi Facteur 4, Do you know if there’s a collective or a patronage group to support the reforestation of the Canal du Midi with trees? While we’re at it, why not make a small contribution to this cause... See you, Gilles

Thanks for your interest. Here’s some info on patronage: http://www.vnf.fr/...i/article03.php?id=3

Thanks for the info. We’ll have to see what the future terms of the sponsorship campaign will be. A few euros for a tree is a good thing—stay tuned... Safe travels on your future rides. @+

Day 1 Monday 4 June 2012 Valence d’Agen 09:30 Toulouse 17:00 95 km I won’t go into detail about this part, which has been described many times in previous posts. Just a reminder that the entire route along the Garonne lateral canal is a dedicated, paved cycle path. That means you won’t encounter any cars except for a few exceptions and junctions that might not be paved for a few hundred meters.

As usual, as I approach Moissac, I cross paths with many hikers on the St. Jacques trail. At this time of year, PE class can take the form of a canoe trip on the Tarn. The town famous for its Chasselas grapes welcomes visitors with roses. See the photos below (hover over them to see the name) and here: http://voyageforum.com/...post=5034626#5034626

After Castelsarrasin, I pass a couple of cycle-campers. The woman is struggling to keep up with her husband, even though he’s pulling a two-wheeled trailer. I let her know that he won’t be able to ride on the Canal du Midi towpath—contrary to the info he received that only 25 of the 240 km aren’t developed!!! I advise the woman (as her husband had already done) to raise her saddle for more power in her legs. But for now, she’s not confident enough, especially with the water so close. She prefers walking, and when I mention the backpack, they describe their setup for following the St. Jacques trail. Early in the morning, the woman and her sister would set off on foot while the husband and brother-in-law took down the tent. Then he’d bike to meet his brother-in-law, who’d be waiting with an apéritif after driving the van (where he and his wife slept).

In those conditions, I go from an occasional walker to a seasoned one.

At 12:30 PM after 43 km, I arrive in Montech, where the lockkeeper’s restaurant is still waiting for a new manager. I have lunch at La Place restaurant, where the worker’s menu is 10 or 12 €. At 1:30 PM, I’m back on the path. After a few kilometers, I give in to a nap in the grass a little off the canal since my daughter can’t welcome me at her shared apartment in Toulouse until 6:30 PM. After 30 minutes, I’m woken up by music coming from an electric vehicle with a trailer carrying a seat (maybe for friends), like the ones the English love: http://www.practicomfort.fr/...amp;name=Confortable As soon as they’re even slightly disabled, they ‘rush’ to buy one. I must’ve picked the wrong spot to relax…

I reach the Ponts Jumeaux after 90 km at 5:00 PM. One bridge crosses the Canal du Midi, the other the Canal de Brienne, which allowed barges to descend into the Garonne before its lateral canal (built 200 years later) existed. Actually, they’re triplets now. In my photo, you can see the difference in brick color. Still avoiding traffic, which at this hour already makes crossing the road very difficult, I follow the Canal de Brienne (1.6 km) to its end, which leads me to Place St-Pierre, a student hangout with several bars offering terraces. Since I’m both thirsty and hungry, I choose a bakery where I treat myself to a country-style tart with a pint of AMSTERDAM Navigator beer (I’ll understand later why this high-alcohol beer is found here). A trash can labeled MERCI invites me to toss the small cardboard box my cherry tart came in. I ask where to put my can for recycling. The server tells me bars don’t recycle packaging, and it’d be pointless to try explaining it to the young people who’ll occupy the square in 2–3 hours in a drunken state. Yet aluminum is recyclable, and the quantities involved are significant. I tell him it should be like in Quebec, where you get a cent back for returning a can at the convenience store.

Day 2 Tuesday 05/06 Toulouse 08:45 AM Lac de St Férréol 5:00 PM 88 km I’m leaving at the same time as my daughter, who’s heading to her internship fine-tuning microalgae farming (to produce food and fuels). I quickly find the Canal du Midi, which looks a lot like the Garonne Canal here. In Rangueil, I join the flow of student cyclists and people commuting to work. The Voie Verte is paved for 50 km up to Port Lauragais. But at 11:45 AM, guided by my stomach, I leave the towpath after 45 km for Avignonet Lauragais. I arrive at the Auberge du Pilori at exactly noon, where participants in a tourism seminar are gathering. Since they’re eating inside and I’m on the terrace, their blessing doesn’t bother me. I only need to cover 5 km on the D813 (former N113) to reach the obelisk paying tribute to Pierre Paul Riquet and the Seuil de Naurouze. This is the highest point between the Atlantic and Mediterranean watersheds—the spot Riquet chose to ensure the canal’s constant water supply by creating the St Férréol reservoir, capturing rainwater from the Montagne Noire. At 1:00 PM, I leave the road for the GR 653, which runs alongside the feeder canal. More info here: http://voyageforum.com/...post=4462769#4462769 In 2 hours and 20 km, I’ll only cross paths with one hiker, a mountain biker, a squirrel, and two stunning blue mowing tractors belonging to a VNF subcontractor. The Lenclas rest stop has upgraded to attract tourists, but the inflatable castle’s compressor slightly ruins my lemon sorbet (refreshing) and rum-raisin ice cream (energy). The transition from Aude to Haute-Garonne brings the appearance of a Voie Verte. The packed earth isn’t as smooth as on my very first trip, but it’s still very rideable. I pass a few cyclists, mostly retirees who’ve parked their camper vans at the Étang de Lenclas. Its 16 km will take me to Lac de St Férréol, where I’ve booked a hotel, already fearing the crowds. But it’s worth the effort because the General Council, to protect cyclists and pedestrians, extended the Voie Verte, which then leaves the feeder canal via a superb 3 km path. For legal reasons, it’s advertised with a maximum slope of 15%, though the company COLAS, which built it, measured up to 18% in places. So, pushing my 30 kg bike, I reach the top after a stop at the water point strategically placed by the Haute-Garonne Council. I thought I’d swim in the lake (like in the August story), but the Hôtel La Renaissance, where I receive a warm welcome, has a small pool that’s just a bit warmer and cleaner: http://www.booking.com/hotel/fr/logis-de-france-la-renaissance.fr.html?tab=4&aid=301664&rid=298019706&label=review_am

Day 3, Wednesday 06/06 – 08:00 St Férréol to 18:30 Capendu, 88 km Having ridden it on a small motorbike when I was younger, and based on tourists’ experiences, the hotel owner advised me against taking the *rigole de la montagne* (mountain channel) with my loaded bike from the lake. Yet, discovering this part was the first goal of my trip—I’ve never been here before. Since I couldn’t find the start of the GR trail, I took the D629 to Les Cammazes. The climb warmed me up quickly, and I spent the day adjusting my layers based on clouds, wind, and the ups and downs. After 10 km, I found the exit of Vauban’s tunnel. It allows the *rigole de la montagne* to switch from one valley to another, diverting water from the Mediterranean watershed to the Atlantic side. Les Cammazes also had a sign inviting me to follow the channel to Alzeau’s water intake. The path was smooth, and I loved riding through the greenery. Until I hit a fence completely blocking the trail due to a collapsed bank, with a detour sign for the GR7. The detour led down through a logged forest, then back up to the channel. The path ended with a temporary staircase, forcing me to unload my panniers to haul my bike up. A minute later, I met the only other hikers—a couple. I wished I’d run into them earlier; they could’ve helped! They told me they run the *Gîte du Pèlerin* in Revel. After a few wrong turns due to channel diversions, I reached the Lampy dam by noon. I was about to eat my cookies and compote on a flat rock when I realized I was at 640 m, the highest point of the water supply network, and the wind was *freezing*. While looking for shelter, I found a restaurant run by Brits—way better than my snacks. I learned this reservoir, built in 1776, was a prerequisite for the Languedoc Canal administration to connect the *Canal du Midi* with the *Canal de la Robine*, which runs through Narbonne. That’s the second goal of my trip: to follow the *Canal de la Robine* to the sea. I started my descent toward the *Canal du Midi*, rejoining the D629 at Saissac. My phone finally got signal, and I listened to a voicemail from the owner of *Relais Occitan*, whom I’d tried calling that morning. Her landline was full, and her mobile wasn’t picking up (I later found out she’d gone to Chartres to babysit her daughter, who was defending her thesis). She gave me her husband’s number, but he couldn’t answer—he was driving. Sleeping in a *foudre* (wine barrel) again was well-earned, especially since tonight, two cycling couples would take the first two barrels, a group would stay in the old tiled vat, and I’d fill the last spot in the *gîte d’étape* at Domaine de Beauvoir (the guest rooms were still available). After 1 km on the D6113, I turned right into Pezens to find the small road to the canal. Riding slowly, I was startled when my keys—attached to my whistle-compass-thermometer—flew out. Did I forget to close my handlebar bag’s front pocket, or did vibrations loosen the zipper? Lucky me: in the steep descents I’d just done (up to 50 km/h), I wouldn’t have heard the metallic jingle that alerted me. At 14:30, after 50 km, I was back on the towpath, but at a much slower pace than on the pavement. Too bad it was too early to stop at the crêperie at Herminis Lock: http://creperiedelecluse11.wordpress.com/ I was about to take a photo of the towpath’s sorry state—it hosts tourists from all over visiting Carcassonne—but this time, the path was completely closed. Maybe future repairs are coming? See my letter to the *Conseil Général* here: http://voyageforum.com/...post=4162125#4162125 I looked for a bar where I could park my bike and set up my laptop with its 3G dongle in peace. The ideal spot—a terrace right above the canal—was serving its last lunch customers before closing. I circled for a while but couldn’t find a quiet place without traffic or crowds. I ended up buying a cold drink from a vending machine at the train station and moved far enough to be undisturbed but close enough for signal. Sitting on a pine stump by the canal, I had my snack while paying for the next night’s booking with my credit card via my works council’s site. I saw several trees marked for removal due to *chancre coloré* (a fungal disease): http://voyageforum.com/...post=4641146#4641146 There was an info panel and, for the first time, young resistant plane trees being watered. At 18:30, I arrived in Capendu. Though I’ve slept in a *foudre* 5 or 6 times before, this was the first time I’d brought a camera to share photos of the outside and inside. Good night!

Day 4 Thursday 07/06 08:30 Capendu 17:00 Gruissan 85 km http://www.relaisoccitan.com/ The Beauvoir estate of Relais Occitan is a member (for over 100 €/year) of Service Compris, which promotes slow tourism along the canal between the two seas by publishing a very useful tourist map for hikers, as it shows distances and which bank to cycle on: http://www.canal-et-voie-verte.com/ While the route from Carcassonne to Marseillette (Capendu) appeared as a solid line, I kept wondering at each crossing where the bike path was. Riding there yesterday, I thought the surface was actually decent. Surprise in the 2012 edition the owner gave me—it’s now dotted. People must have complained. Same correction for the Rigole de la Plaine, whose Aude section wrongly had this route, which should only be for the part in Haute-Garonne where it becomes a Voie Verte. This morning, I’m back on the left bank at the Marseillette lock, and the towpath really deserves the dotted line with its narrow strip of land where bikes ride through grass, stones, and roots. Another bank change at the Aiguille lock, where the lockkeeper is a wood sculptor. Even the barriers blocking car access leave too little room for bikes (let alone tricycles). With all these challenges, it’s impossible to average more than 10 km/h. And maybe that’s a good thing when I hear the dull thuds of a piece of wood hitting my front wheel spokes, signaling it’s thick enough to end my ride in the sun. That’s what they call throwing a wrench in the works. Luckily, it slips out to the right when it reaches the fork, and I keep going. I lift the front and spin the wheel—a rubbing noise makes me fear a buckle, but it’s just the brake pad that shifted after hitting the branch. I can recover from the scare by buying cherries at the next lock. They’re not sweet but refreshing. You can’t be picky this year, when so many crops suffered from rain or even hail ("hay year, nothing year"). Further on, a man holding his bike with a trailer is also holding his wife’s. He warns her too late of my arrival as she’s peeing behind a plane tree. To avoid adding to her embarrassment, I look straight ahead, but our wide field of vision lets me think her white underwear looks brand new. Since I have good memories of it, I hesitate to eat in Ventenac as I pass the château. I notice that vineyards are being replanted in the area. It takes me 4 hours to cover the 43 km to Le Somail. But the effort is rewarded with the grocery barge, the stunning bridge, and the Comptoir de la Nature, where I convince the waitresses to set the table on the terrace near the water. The uncertain weather had made them stick to the front of the restaurant.

Day 4 Continued – Thursday 07/06 08:30 Capendu to 17:00 Gruissan, 85 km Settled at Le Somail, they had passed close by me. Back on the towpath, I meet the "pee break" couple again at the first engineering structure. The man is taking a photo of his wife. I offer to photograph them both. He tells me that’s not the point and that they have a self-timer for that. Maybe he’s afraid I’ll steal his camera? I quickly reach the intersection with the Canal de Jonction, which allows boats to join the Canal de la Robine that crosses Narbonne. This Roman city enjoyed significant influence due to its port location. In the 14th century, major floods of the Aude River filled the southern bed and cut Narbonne off from its sea access. The small canals called "robines," used since antiquity, weren’t enough to ensure transport. As in 2007: http://voyageforum.com/...post=1281472#1281472, I turn right. This time, I won’t have to empty my panniers, which are removable—unlike the ones my wife bought to play mail carrier in her village one summer, which I had secured to my MTB for my first trips after the fastenings gave out. After taking photos of my new panniers during the transfer, that evening I get the idea to use them for a riddle I send to my friends, asking what they’re attached to and where. Each day, I send them new photographic clues (see below before reading on).

Despite some wrong guesses, some friends were relentless in solving the riddle. And one person won a bike ride with me along their chosen section of the Canal Between the Two Seas and its feeder network. The answer: my panniers were attached to the railing of the MOUSSOULENS railway bridge—a Eiffel-type construction that crosses the AUDE River. It’s the only way for pedestrians and cyclists following the boats using the "Nouvelle branch" to cross the Aude. (Thanks to Georges11 for his very clear diagram and explanations, which I just discovered): http://georges11.blogspot.fr/...e-long-du-canal.... Indeed, to reach Narbonne and then Port-la-Nouvelle, boats leave the Canal du Midi via the Canal de Jonction up to the Gailhousty spillway (1786), where the lock allows them to briefly descend onto the Aude River until the Moussoulens lock (1686), which protects Narbonne from river floods. There, they enter the Canal de la Robine (the Aude’s former bed), which crosses the city and allows them to reach the Mediterranean 37 km after leaving the Canal du Midi.

The old ferryboat attached to a suspended cable, which allowed pedestrians to cross, was removed to make way for the automobile society.

The railway bridge itself only remains due to the need to transport uranium for the Comurhex company, located 3 km from Narbonne. It enriches yellowcake from Niger, the first step in producing nuclear fuel in France. More info here:

http://mirepeisset.pagesperso-orange.fr/...hie/h...

http://www.canalmidi.com/aufildlo/narbonne.html

http://www.sallelesdaude.fr/...monument-classe.h...

http://www.google.fr/...AWhj8mRBA&zoom=1

http://www.agadez-niger.com/...viewtopic.php?t=4... So I take the access path—with no signs (see my photo)—located behind the Gailhousty spillway to reach the railway bridge and cross the Aude. Unlike in 2007, when the rails seemed shiny, I find them rusty, with poor fastenings and perforated metal sheets. I wouldn’t mind seeing this bridge turned into a greenway. First, I carry my bike down the stairs, then my panniers. A few meters along the riverbank, and then the start of the "Littorale" cycling route, which begins by following the Canal de la Robine.

Day 4, end of Thursday 07/06 08:30 Capendu - 17:00 Gruissan 85 km I reach Narbonne where a bike sign seems to indicate a detour due to ongoing construction, but I end up on the wrong bank (right side) in a dead end, passing twice through a narrow and low-clearance section that forces me to dismount from my MTB. I have to mix with traffic in the city center where pedestrians and cars are already struggling to coexist and only manage to follow the left bank after 1 km. I leave the city of Charles Trenet at 3:30 PM after 64 km. The riverside path is busy but has suffered damage from bad weather. It was a bit early to eat in town. I arrive at the fork at 4:00 PM and 71 km. Remembering I still have some cherries, I continue a little toward Port-la-Nouvelle to take a break in front of a rice field. Then I head back to La Littorale where two men are marking a hike on the old Domitian Way for the weekend. After a stretch on small roads, I pass a German couple on the Greenway with its brand-new surface. A bit of wind forces the man to wait for his partner. Gray skies over the circular village of Gruissan around its castle built on a limestone hill that, in Roman times, emerged from the sea. Without leaving the bike path, I reach my works council’s holiday village at 5:05 PM and 85 km. I thought reception would just be opening, but at this time of year, it has already closed. I find the keys to my cottage, sheets, and my electronic badge at my disposal. I even have the code for the perimeter fence, which lets me access the nearby seawater pond: http://rsl.cepralmar.com/sites/c04/2006.html I can then take advantage of the cooked meals service. To eat on-site, you’re asked to bring your own cutlery, and I’m surprised to be refused my plate for the lamb stew with olives. It’s forbidden to enter the kitchen for hygiene reasons. I’m served in a disposable dish. Even though my colleagues will be happy not to have to wash dishes and it’s biodegradable, I find this stupid. In the Aude, there’s no collection of compostable waste, and mixed with other trash, it’ll just add to the pile of household garbage. Since I can’t exceptionally dine on-site, I place my dish at an angle on my plate inside the plastic that wrapped my sheets, serving as a transport bag before becoming a trash bag. I wander around for a while looking for my lodging among the 467 and arrive with my pants stained with grease marks I’ll never manage to remove. More luck with the weather: it’s at 8:30 PM that large hailstones hit my cottage, several hours after I left my bike.

Day 5, Saturday 09/06: Gruissan 08:45 AM – Capendu 06:15 PM, 87 km After a rest day where it felt harder to get into the lagoon water, I start the return trip, which I plan to do in 3 days. I find the greenway again, leading me to Narbonne Plage where I buy 250 g of "gariguette" cherries at a small market. The coastal road somewhat misleads with its name, stopping at Saint-Pierre-la-Mer after just a few kilometers along the coast. I tackle a small climb to head toward Coursan via the D1118, which is very pleasant but winding, so I prefer to put on my reflective yellow vest. I probably miss something by not visiting the Gouffre de l'Œil Doux and reach Fleury. After crossing Coursan on the way to Cuxac and Sallèles-d’Aude, I come across many road bikes that benefit from a tailwind. I find the Canal de la Robine again but choose to continue via Saint-Marcel-sur-Aude to reach Le Somail, one of my favorite spots on the Canal du Midi. Obsessed with the *Comptoir de la Nature*, I realize too late it would’ve been shorter to join the canal at Ventenac, where there’s also a good restaurant. No regrets though, as I enjoy the *assiette du randonneur* with rice from Marseillette, where I’ll sleep again. This time, I decide to take the time to visit the old books bookstore, but it’s on lunch break, even though it’s Saturday. I pass the *Tourmente*, proudly announcing on behalf of the independent boatmen’s union: 40 times less atmospheric pollution than the road. As I’m about to take a macro shot of a flower, Jacques, a hiker from Ardèche cycling toward Sète, arrives. We exchange stories about our travels. He’s been to Cambodia and Laos and is interested in my experience in Quebec. I offer help to a couple with a flat tire, but they live nearby. I’m almost surprised I’ve never had a flat on my trips after thousands of kilometers. I unnecessarily booked at the *Relais Occitan* since I’m alone in the *gîte d’étape*. Under the pretext that it might rain, I skip the 4 km ride to dine at *Icix*. Instead, I order a pizza—actually just to use the Wi-Fi and watch *Complément d’Enquête* on sports injuries later. This is a serious breach of my principles: having a one-ton vehicle deliver a pizza is wasteful, especially since the delivery service is free (which should be banned). Luckily, the Belgian couple staying in the *chambre d’hôte* ordered salads, making the trip slightly less absurd.

J6 Sunday 10/06 Capendu 09h Carcassonne 10h 20 km I meet them at breakfast. When I tell them it’s going to rain, they complain that the path will turn to mud. At the Libron structure, they noticed this message in English: "And 300 years later still not able to build a bike path." I tell them that the Aude region is finally launching a development study. I just found out the good news via email from Julien Savary, a very active member of http://af3v.org/. See info: http://www.ladepeche.fr/...e-canal-du-midi.html For my part, I decided to take the train in Carcassonne and cover the 20 km to the station by road. As I feared when looking at the D6113 on the Michelin map, after just 3 km, a sign appears banning bikes. Since it’s Sunday, I allow myself to ride on the shoulder and arrive well ahead of schedule after a trip reduced to just 1 hour (long live the pavement). I’m lucky that the TER train chartered by the region is a Bombardier made in northern France: http://www2.bombardier.com/fr/9_0/9_6.jsp I can board without removing my panniers because the floor is level with the platform, but for track 3 at Carcassonne station, the only access is via the stairs! Same type of train in Toulouse. Fortunately, because I only have 10 minutes between the two, and I can’t find the platform access due to construction. I was right to ask the other four cyclists to let me exit the first train first. With SNCF, you cover in 1 hour the distance of a day’s bike ride, just like the 700 km I had traveled in 7 days to get to Saint-Raphaël and 7 hours on the way back: http://voyageforum.com/...post=2631582#2631582

This concludes this pleasant 453 km loop, and I recommend enjoying the Canal du Midi before it’s disfigured by replanting work and, hopefully, the creation of the Voie Verte. With the luck of only getting a few raindrops like I did this spring of CHANGE: We suspected that microparticles from DIESEL engines were carcinogenic—now we’re certain: http://www.notre-planete.info/...esel_cancerigene.php France will continue to import DIESEL, but perhaps no longer to support GROWTH. We thought sports were good for health. We now have proof that the blows taken by competitors cause the same brain damage as Alzheimer’s (more quickly). ATHLETES and FANS will continue to rush to stadiums (preferably by car). What doesn’t change is that KEROSENE isn’t taxed. It’s true that it’s better to tax sodas than AIR TRAVEL. That’s less likely to draw the ire of the ENTIRE WORLD: http://www.ladepeche.fr/...recise-pecresse.html (also read at the bottom of the page)

Welcome to the Ch’tis: an illusion, a memory that could turn into a nightmare. This film reinforces the idea that French people love to retreat into their cozy little bubbles when the weather gets rough. Denial—a national sport since Alésia. In whining, the French see kindness. In clichés, humor. In the vulgarity of tradition, authenticity. In shared anxieties, solidarity. In the poor French mumbled by underfed welfare recipients, a centuries-old patois. Northerners aren’t any more or less foolish than people in other regions. Don’t confuse movies with reality. Thanks for the image you’re giving the NNOOOOOOOOooooooooorth! !

Hi there, I don’t know if you’ve read this entire travel journal after coming across this excerpt from 2008—which isn’t mine, and I’m glad I credited the author: while reading the weekly *Marianne* that a colleague passed along to me. An unexpected article by Matthieu Grimpet, “Welcome to the Ch’tis: An Illusion, a Memory That Could Turn into a Nightmare”: http://voyageforum.com/...post=1865871#1865871 Personally, I’m from Normandy, and I’ve spent a lot of time around people from the North—I’ve always found them friendly. I’ve since seen the movie on TV and didn’t think it was anything special, at least not enough to justify all the media hype at the time. That might explain the journalist’s take. I hope this doesn’t stop you from reading the full thread if it interests you.

Info on replanting the canal: http://www.replantonslecanaldumidi.fr/?utm_source=VNF+Newsletter+-+Replantons+le+canal+lancement&utm_campaign=90c038f68e-Emailing_VNF_Replantons_le_canal_du_Midi8_1_2012&utm_medium=email