In the Land of the Tswana (Botswana) (page 8 of 10)

Thanks for the info. I must admit I was less interested in the little birds than the big mammals—probably a mistake. There was also this one. I imagine you know it... 😉



That’s a Common Grenadier (Uraeginthus granatinus, Violet-eared Waxbill), Ludo. A female, like the one in our post about the birds of Namibia.

You weren’t wrong to focus less on the birds—your Tswana safari had plenty to offer with the antelopes, big cats, and all that, plus the 4x4 driving. But hey, on a slow mammal day, you might just develop a taste for them, who knows?

Have a great day!

BL

Beyond the view, what's also amazing about the birds is the variety of their songs. We just got back from Botswana, and listening to all those birds in the morning was just too beautiful 🙂

it’s the birds that wake me up in the morning in Gabs

Hello,

We’ve just returned from South India, and there too, the morning birdsong is such a joy—especially in an otherwise very noisy country! But the happiness wasn’t any less when, back home, I got to see my little sparrows again in the garden. Sure, they’re less diverse than in tropical areas in terms of species, but there are still plenty of them (I even took part in the winter bird count organized by the LPO this year).

Hello,

A huge thank you for letting me experience this country vicariously—it reminds me in so many ways of the Serengeti, Etosha, or the Great Rift Valley. A place we’ll likely never visit, since we’re no longer up for that kind of adventure. Best regards,

Michel

PS. I love that Y-shaped couple! 😉

Hey everyone, There’s a chance to visit Botswana from late April to mid-May. Booking for Savuti, Moremi, Chobe—looking to share costs. 4x4 community from South Africa. Valerie

10/09/2019: Kubu Island - Khama Rhino Sanctuary

Once again, the night was very peaceful—given where we are, the opposite would’ve been surprising. We leave Kubu Island worried we’d have to take a track as rough as the one that brought us here yesterday. But at first, we drive across the flat "pan" and make pretty good time.





Unfortunately, that doesn’t last, and the track turns very rocky, forcing us to stop now and then. But to our surprise, the paved road starts earlier than we thought, right at Mmatshumo. We grab a few supplies and fill up on gas in Letlhakane, then head south, passing near a diamond mine. It’s early afternoon when we arrive at Khama Rhino Sanctuary. It’s been a while since I’ve said this, but once again, the welcome is really friendly, and the rangers try to speak a few words of French.



The campsite is located two kilometers from the entrance, in what’s supposedly the farthest area from where the rhinos live. This animal is the only one among Africa’s most iconic that we haven’t seen yet. And for good reason: aside from a few recently reintroduced specimens in the Okavango Delta, in Botswana, they only exist in this reserve. But for now, it’s 38°C, and we’re eager to take a dip in the small pool next to the restaurant. Unfortunately, it looks more like a brackish watering hole that even hippos might think twice about using. Plus, the Wi-Fi (also available at the restaurant) is slow and keeps cutting out, so it’s tough to update the family. Off to the reserve’s tracks, then! Very quickly, as we arrive at Malema’s Pan, we spot our first rhino, right at the edge of the viewing area. Throughout the afternoon, we’ll see nine of them—some running, others rolling in the mud or rubbing against tree trunks. The only downside for photos is that they’re often backlit. Despite the presence of four black rhinos in the park, we only spot white ones.















Even though we’re thrilled to have seen all the "Big Five" during our trip, let’s be honest—spotting rhinos is way less exciting than seeing elephants, for example (okay, fine, buffalo aren’t that great either). Still, they remain a target for poachers, and a military jeep patrols the reserve constantly to protect them. Other species like zebras, giraffes, warthogs, wildebeest, and elands are easy to spot. Apparently, it’s also possible (though rare) to see leopards, but we won’t be that lucky.





On the other hand, the rhinos keep showing up.

















Back at the campsite (where few spots are taken), a small sand-colored scorpion appears while we’re preparing dinner. Careful! !

hi shouldn’t say that. it depends on the conditions...and the means valerie

Hi Ludo,

Wow, those rhinos in such a desolate atmosphere with no one else around—just you two! Feels like you’re the only people in the world. Thanks for the story and the photos. I really like the one of the phaco.

We weren’t completely alone, but it’s true there were very few people around. The warthog was at the "bird hide," one of the few spots with water.

Just 2 or 3 more stops to go... We’re finally nearing the end of this trip! 😉

Awesome original rhinos, Ludo! Original because they're white rhinos but spotted white. This thread is still as interesting and well-illustrated as ever.

Have a great day!

BL

PS: And that uniform turaco is gorgeous too

Good evening, everyone,

Instead of black rhinos, here are some "black and white" ones 😛 A really beautiful photo of rhinos racing! I particularly love elands, so this photo makes me so happy 😇 And I also really like the warthog.

Thanks 🙂

10/10/2019: Khama Rhino Sanctuary - Pilanesberg

Small technical issue this morning: a strap used to secure the tarpaulin covering the rooftop tent just gave way. Luckily, Mrs. MacGyver fixes it all with a crank, a bent metal bar, a pair of scissors, and a pair of tweezers. We're ready for this transition leg, though there’s not much particularly interesting along the way. I apologize in advance: no photos for this leg. 😕

Southeastern Botswana is much more populated than the regions of the country we’ve visited before. Maybe it’s the proximity to mines... No elephants by the roadside here, but there are still cows, so you have to be careful. We arrive at the Martin's Drift / Groblersbrug border post. It’s an important crossing point between the two countries, and the administrative procedures are pretty quick. Bye-bye Botswana! Back to South Africa! After nearly four wonderful weeks in Botswana, we’d happily stay another four weeks in South Africa. 🙂 Especially since the landscape here is hillier—it’s a nice change from Botswana.

We take our lunch break in Lephalale. The sky clouds over and even looks threatening for the first time on the trip. We’re hoping for a good downpour to wash off the thick layer of dust stuck to the car, the remnants of hundreds of kilometers of dirt roads. But in the end, only a few drops fall, and the sky clears up again. Near Thabazimbi, we spot what looks like smoke—a major bushfire, apparently. But as we get closer, we realize it’s a massive sand and dust storm. The sky darkens, and the temperature drops sharply from 38°C to 27°C. The storm covers a large area and follows us all the way to Pilanesberg National Park, which we’re supposed to visit tomorrow. The Bakgatla campsite could be nice, but the wind ruins everything. The ‘resort’ is huge, and since there are very few people, we look for the most sheltered spot possible. Even though it’s not very warm, we take advantage of the large pool. During the evening, we do a first recap of the trip with our friends, since our vacation is unfortunately coming to an end. Well... ours is! They’re continuing their world tour in China (this was before coronavirus). The wind starts to calm down.

Hi, soak up your luck with the rhinos. One of them was just killed in the Okavango, right next to a lodge—nothing seen or heard. Supposedly the noise from the generator... Corruption is terrible, even in Botswana, a country said to be virtuous. I never get tired of seeing rhinos because they’re the last ones in the wild. But freedom kills. Those at Khama Rhino Sanctuary are certainly well protected. There are many of them, and as a result, they’re redistributed across the country—result...

That's not good news! 😕

Since VoyageForum won’t let me add photos to this travel journal, you won’t get any images to illustrate the end of my trip. Too bad—there were only two days left! You’ll have to use your imagination...

11/10/2019: Pilanesberg

The sky is overcast this morning, which, paradoxically, isn’t necessarily a bad thing—this cooler weather might let us see plenty of animals that are usually inactive in the heat. This is our third visit to Pilanesberg National Park. On our first trip to South Africa 25 years ago, it was even the very first reserve we visited. We loved it so much that we came back 12 years later. And since this time it was sort of on the way between Botswana and Johannesburg, there was no way we could skip it. Located inside an extinct volcano, the reserve is home to most of Africa’s iconic animal species in a stunning setting. With this gray sky, it’s a little gloomy, though. Big difference from Botswana’s parks: some of the roads are paved, and you don’t need a 4x4 for the tracks. Another notable difference: there are quite a few spots where you can get out of the car and walk to "hides"—like observation points near waterholes. And right at the first one, we spot a hippo that could really use a trip to the orthodontist. Other visitors are there and tell us there’s a cheetah mom with three cubs nearby. We quickly hop back into the cars, hoping we understood where they were seen. You always think you’ll see more animals on the dirt tracks than on paved roads, but that’s a mistake. Here, the cheetahs are on Tshewene Road—the busiest road in the park since it comes from Manyane Gate. And it’s hard to miss the spot because a good dozen vehicles are already stopped! The cats aren’t right by the road, though. We spot them through binoculars about fifty meters away, partly hidden by branches. They’re clearly gathered around their kill—an impala. We’re a little frustrated because they’re not very visible, even if we can make out the cubs (not babies). But suddenly, the mom stands up and starts walking toward the road and the cars, followed by the cubs. The mom is wearing a tracking collar, so the group is being monitored. And just like that, the four cheetahs cross the road right through the middle of the cars and disappear into the tall grass! We try to find them again by taking Hippo Loop, but we don’t see them again. We continue toward Mankwe Dam. On the Letsha track, another cluster of cars—this time about twenty vehicles packed together (another difference from Botswana). We squeeze in as best we can and spot a pair of lions. They move from one thicket to another, stop, then keep going. Turns out we’re not so badly positioned to watch them. And we realize they’ve got their eyes on a small group of zebras drinking at the lake. Amazing—we’re about to witness a hunt! The big cats move forward, belly to the ground, the lioness in front and the lion following calmly behind. They try to stay as quiet as possible, but there’s no tall grass for the last fifty meters separating them from the herbivores. The zebras spot them and bolt before the lioness can launch her attack. Too bad! Continuing on the same track, we come across a pair of rhinos lying on the side of the road. It’s not even 10 a.m., and we’ve already seen so many species that are usually hard to spot. Pilanesberg is living up to its reputation!

We take a big loop on some more remote tracks where we see wildebeest, zebras, hippos, kudus, and, of course, the ever-amazing elephants—you never get tired of them! The sky starts to clear, and the sun finally makes an appearance. We go back to the spot where we saw the cheetahs this morning, but either they’re well hidden or they’ve moved on. We also return to where the lion couple was hunting earlier—it’s right nearby. But just before we get there, we’re stopped again by about twenty cars tangled together. We learn that a leopard is right there, not far from the edge of the track, but well hidden behind bushes. With some difficulty, we finally spot it. Like everyone else, we wait a while, then give up, discouraged. We keep driving around the tracks, a bit at random. The park’s rugged terrain means we can see a lot of animals even if they’re pretty far away. That’s how we spot buffalo and more rhinos (seven in total). After a big loop, we try our luck again near the leopard. It’s still there, and it’s still chaos! People are arguing—those who can’t see anything are blaming the ones in the best spots for never moving. You can understand them, though—they’re waiting for the moment the animal decides to change position, because honestly, it’s so well hidden that no one’s really getting a good look. And just then, it stands up! Completely indifferent to all the cars, it calmly walks right through the middle of them. Unfortunately, we’re in a bad spot (we see it pass in the rearview mirror), but our friends manage to get a few photos. In seconds, it disappears into the tall grass. The afternoon is already well underway, and considering how lucky we’ve been today, we head toward Manyane to set up camp. But no—the day wasn’t quite over yet! Around a bend, a brown hyena makes a brief appearance. Sure, parks like Pilanesberg or the famous Kruger are more crowded and less wild than Botswana’s reserves, but you have to admit it’s pretty incredible to have seen the "Big Five," cheetahs, and a hyena in a single day (not to mention all the other, easier-to-spot animals). Manyane Camp is much busier than Bakgatla, which makes sense since it’s closer to Pretoria and Johannesburg. It’s also teeming with animals: impalas, vervets, baboons, and mongooses. Like at Bakgatla, there’s no Wi-Fi, which is a bit shocking for a resort of this level—and especially annoying for us since we need to check in for our flight the next day. To celebrate our last evening with our friends, we all have dinner together at the camp’s restaurant.

10/12/2019: Pilanesberg - Johannesburg

Our friends wake up early because their flight to China (continuing their round-the-world trip) is at 12:30 PM, and there’s still quite a bit of road ahead. We get up to wish them a safe journey, then head back to bed for a little while. Since our flight isn’t until 11:15 PM, we’ve got the whole day ahead of us. We take our time packing our bags and cleaning the inside of the car a bit. We give the caretaker who maintains the restrooms several unused items: a can of tomato sauce, the rest of the dish soap, and a few other odds and ends. We feel like we’ve given him an amazing gift—he shows so much gratitude.

We leave Manyane Camp and take the scenic route toward Pretoria. We’d spotted several lakes along the way where we could spend some time. About ten kilometers south of Rustenburg is Olifantsnek Dam. We drive into the village of Olifants Nek, convinced we’d find access to the lake, but no luck. We backtrack a bit since we thought we’d seen a dirt road leading down to the lake. Yes, there it is! Except the access is private, paid, and not exactly cheap if you don’t plan to spend the whole day. We play it surprised, saying we just want to spend a little relaxing time before our flight. To our amazement, they let us in for free! It’s peaceful, and we take the chance to have lunch. It’s mostly a fishing reserve, and a lot of people are there for that—otherwise, there’s not much to do.

We then head toward Hartbeespoort Dam. There are more people there, mostly South African tourists, especially near the dam. But once again, lake access seems complicated—everything’s private. We try our luck in Schoemansville, a very residential neighborhood in Hartbeespoort, where the Oewer Club is located. We’re faced with another barrier and negotiate to get in for free so we can relax a bit before our flight. And once again, they agree and welcome us with big smiles. The spot is pretty nice, with large lawns by the lake and barbecue areas. We stop there for about two hours before heading back toward Pretoria.

We arrive at Bushlore to return our 4x4 as night falls, a little late because of heavy Saturday evening traffic. A quick inspection of the car—we didn’t damage it, so all’s good! The only issue was losing a small spoon, and yet we weren’t exactly gentle with the thing! We sign the vehicle return document, and an employee drives us straight to Johannesburg Airport. This time, it’s really the end of the trip! Off to Amsterdam, then Nantes.

SUMMARY

To wrap things up, I’d mostly like to reassure anyone who’s tempted by a trip to Botswana but wonders if they’re up for it. We had zero experience driving a 4x4, and everything went really smoothly—even though we did get stuck in the sand once. The Toyota Hilux is super easy to drive. Of course, a trip like this takes planning, especially since accommodations are pretty scarce and you need to book way in advance—apparently a year ahead for the most popular camps inside the best reserves. To put our minds at ease, we traveled with two vehicles so we could help each other out if needed. In the end, we could’ve easily gone alone, but we were so happy to share the experience with our friends. As for the wildlife, which was the main goal of this trip, our sightings went beyond anything we’d imagined—beyond our wildest dreams. We’re really aware of how lucky we were in that regard.

Now, it’s just a matter of planning the next destination... 😎

Good evening Ludo,

Greetings from Brittany! So many memories to share, but unfortunately, all good things must come to an end. The party’s over, and it’s pretty sad for us. Is Pilanesberg worth the detour, though? Thanks for this travel journal—it’s so informative that we’ll definitely be back to use it for our planning. Question: why does VF refuse your images?

Thanks Ludo for this travel journal—I’ll keep it handy to refer back to when I’m planning our summer 2021 trip! 😊