Northern Chile, Andean impressions.

Alright, this year, we're heading back to South America!

The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.

Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.

So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!

Not to Argentina, though...

Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!

In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.

Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.

Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?

Are the driver’s license and passport ready?

Bank cards and a few euros too?

Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!



--/--

To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!

1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco

2- Around San Pedro



3- From San Pedro to Cariquima



4- From Cariquima to Putre



5 - From Putre to Arica



Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.

Yes! Can't wait to read this travel journal. I'm itching to head to Arica and Putre too after my trip to SPA a few years back.

Vamos Agnès! 😉

Hey Gigi

Welcome to this travel journal that should bring back lots of memories since the loop goes down to SPA! 🙂

The longest non-stop flight operated by Air France lasts 50,400 seconds—feel free to do the quick math—and its destination is Chile.

And that’s exactly where we’re headed...

Let’s just say we can’t wait to get out of the cabin!

Phew, the captain announces our upcoming landing.

Phew, the cabin doors open.

Phew, we can finally escape the worst kind of confinement: economy class on any airline!

Airports are actually well designed to stretch your legs efficiently after hours of sitting still: endless corridors, infinite staircases that remind any Parisian traveler of a connection at Châtelet-Les Halles metro station—with the added joy of walking.

Just a few more steps and we’re outside, breathing in the rather cool air—it’s winter in the Southern Hemisphere.

The bus to the city center seems to be waiting just for us. We pay the 3,800 pesos for two tickets—another quick calculation for you, divide by a thousand—and the journey begins...

The outskirts fly by, then our stop is announced. Time to take the metro.

Fifteen minutes later, we’re in the upscale neighborhood of Providencia, where our hotel is located.

We chose the Solace for its proximity to public transport and the Santiago cable car. Plus, the area is very safe, and plenty of restaurants are within walking distance.

Speaking of restaurants, how about lunch?

A shower, a meal, a nap—night will be here soon.

We’re going for a stroll in the Metropolitan Park to watch the sun set over the city’s skyscrapers.



If the sky is clear, we might even see the Andes!



Energized after this stunning view, we head out for dinner at a Peruvian restaurant.

The Pisco Sour is a bit strong...



Between the cocktail and the jet lag, I’ll be asleep as soon as my head hits the pillow! 😴

We're also boarding right now... And taking off from Aulnat is a habit for us too!

Hey Manu,

Yeah, it's super convenient to leave from Aulnat! Unfortunately, I don’t do it often because, with no competition, the tickets are usually really expensive. And the parking too... So, Lyon usually wins out! 😊

A travel journal with energetic and often hilarious writing—it’s off to a great start! I’m totally feeling the energy with you, and traveling under these conditions sounds amazing. I’m in!

Looking forward to the next installments of your adventures—can’t wait! 🙂

Hey Dolma,

Welcome to the cable car soaring over Santiago while we wait for some seriously desert-like landscapes...😉

Hope you're all full of energy this morning because today promises to be an active one!

First, we head to the cable car station, which will effortlessly take us up to Cerro San Cristóbal.

A bit early—nothing’s open yet...

So we wait in the wind and cold for the machinery to start up.

The line grows behind us, mostly locals for this leg...

Then, the staff springs into action, the cabin ballet begins, and the first passengers set off.



Through the plexiglass, a stunning panorama of the city and snow-capped peaks unfolds.

It’s always fun to take this mode of transport for something other than skiing!



We get off at the end of the line and start the short walk that leads us to the foot of the Sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception.



The Virgin Mary statue crowning the hill is certainly impressive, but at 22 meters tall, it looks tiny next to the giants built in other countries in the region: 38 meters for the Christ the Redeemer in Rio, 45 meters for another Virgin in Oruro!



It’s Sunday, and an open-air mass is taking place. Few participants, despite Chile’s still-strong religious influence...

We slip away quietly and set off in search of the trail that leads to Barrio Bellavista.

Non-walkers and the lazy can take the funicular back down...



Barrio Bellavista is famous for its murals.

But it really comes alive in the evening...

The streets are pretty deserted this late morning, making this usually vibrant neighborhood feel a bit gloomy.





Aren’t you hungry?

We cross the Mapocho River toward the livelier Lastarria Street, hoping to find something to satisfy us.

It’s a little early—terraces are just setting up.

One agrees to take us in, and we recharge in the sun.

The morning’s icy chill is now just a distant memory; it almost feels like spring.

I could’ve stayed longer to work on my tan, but we haven’t finished our grand tour of Santiago!

Where to next?

The market!

The indoor stalls are overflowing with fish and seafood, and we struggle to name them all...

Hawkers try to convince us to have a second lunch.

No luck!



We now wander through the city center, which doesn’t have much to offer...

It’s worth noting that an earthquake largely destroyed the city in 1647, and the upscale neighborhoods developed on the northeast outskirts of the agglomeration.



Let’s explore the steep paths of Cerro Santa Lucia instead.

From the top of the hill, more views of the capital await us.

A sea of buildings, whose main charm is their location at the foot of the Andes.



Our legs are starting to protest. We take the metro before they go on strike...

Off to the hotel for a well-deserved night of rest!

Hi Agnes! From Santiago to Lima, even in a pseudo 4x4, I’m totally in!!

Hey Bruno,

The 4x4 nickname is big enough to take on a few more passengers! 😉

The flight booked to Arica only leaves in the afternoon.

So we’ve got a few hours to kill before heading to the airport.

How about we check out the Los Dominicos craft center?

A few metro stops later, we’re wandering the alleys of this village of adobe shops built in the old-fashioned way.

It’s cute but not exactly mind-blowing! The promised workshops mostly look like a string of souvenir shops...

The lovely San Vicente de Ferrer church right next door is far more interesting.





I would’ve liked to buy an alpaca sweater or blanket, but the prices are pretty steep and the style isn’t really my thing.

So we’re coming back empty-handed from our shopping trip.

We grab lunch in town and then hop back on the metro and bus to get to the airport.

Domestic terminal this time!

There are only a few flights a day to Arica, and unfortunately, none at my preferred times.

Between evening and dawn (meaning the last part of the night...), the choice was easy.

That’s the challenge of traveling in Chile: the country is stretched out lengthwise, and it takes over 6 hours of flying (or 60 hours by car!) to get from the far south to the far north.

If you don’t have weeks of vacation, you’ve got to take domestic flights or overnight buses.

I’m rambling, I’m rambling...

Gotta fill the time because punctuality doesn’t seem to be SKY’s strong suit.

Oh, our flight’s announced! Let’s board quickly!

Almost 3 hours later, we land in Arica.

We send a message to the driver booked through the hotel, and his car shows up right away.

In 30 minutes, we’re in our room, where we’ll sleep lulled by the sound of the waves.



Good night!

Atacama is calling! Quick, quick, let's hit the road...

Gonna have to wait a bit for San Pedro though

In the morning, the Pacific reveals itself in its gray-sky setting.

It smells of sea spray, a brisk, salty breeze whetting our appetite.



The taxi soon drops us off at the airport where we’ve booked a rental car for 09:00.

Wait, no one’s here to greet us???

Arica isn’t a major airport, and activity only happens in the early hours or in the evening.

Car rental agency staff are only around during landing times...

So, we have to call to get someone to open up!

After a few numbers, the documents and signs aren’t always up to date, but we finally manage to reach Europcar.

It’s a bit tricky to get an English speaker on the line, but everything works out in the end!

Ten minutes later, an employee rushes in and quickly hands us the keys to our vehicle—a nearly new white Mazda.

The car has an automatic 4x4 function and decent ground clearance.

Most importantly, it’s allowed on the secondary roads marked as unpaved tracks, which is why we chose it.

The suitcases are in the trunk—did you set the route on the GPS?

Let’s go!



First, we head to a supermarket to pick up some supplies for picnics.

The selection isn’t great when it comes to quality charcuterie or cheese, but that’s not unique to Chile...

With the groceries packed, we leave the city heading south on the country’s longest road—the impressive Route 5!

The ribbon of asphalt cuts through the desert, allowing mining trucks to transport their loads of iron, gold, lithium, molybdenum, silver, and especially copper.

It climbs, it dips, it curves, it stretches straight...



Villages are few and far between—you can count them on one hand—and gas stations are even rarer...



Here and there stand imposing statues, modern representations of Chinchorro mummies—a semi-nomadic pre-Columbian people who lived in northern Chile millennia before our era.



Scattered around are traces of the past—geoglyphs and petroglyphs that aren’t always easy to spot despite their size...



We’re now at the junction for Iquique.

Traffic picks up, houses multiply, and the desert gives way to a touch of green—the oasis of Pica isn’t far now!



We settle into the cabin we booked and then go out for dinner.

Tomorrow, we’re tackling the cordillera, heading for the Huasco salt flat! !

Tomorrow we’re heading into the mountains

You haven’t arrived yet, since December 6th ? True, taking your time while traveling is really nice, but still ...

Busy with a training course and researching for upcoming trips! The travel journal should be back on track soon. 😉

Pica sits at 1,325 meters above sea level, while the pass separating us from the salt flat reaches around 4,200 meters.

So, we’re about to test our resistance to altitude sickness for the first time on this trip.

The 70 kilometers ahead are a mix of paved roads and dirt tracks. Nothing too complicated!



However, like everywhere in Chile, the roadsides are dotted with crosses—a grim reminder of reckless driving.

Yet, traffic is scarce, very scarce. As long as you don’t floor the accelerator and yield to animals, you’ll arrive at your destination in one piece.



A mix of white and blue stands out against the gray and ochre.

The lagoon?



A few sharp turns bring us closer to our goal, and soon we can admire the stunning Salar de Huasco.



Beyond the mountains lies Bolivia, accessible via the Cancosa Bella Vista border crossing.

Do these llamas need a passport to cross that border?

Let’s ask them...

Oh, no need to run away! We just wanted to capture your beautiful silhouettes!



I don’t think these woolly camelids are used to tourists yet—that’s probably why they’re so skittish.

Now we’re circling the lagoon: about 40 kilometers of dirt tracks.



The landscapes are breathtaking for those who love semi-desert vibes.

Not many people around, apparently—we didn’t cross paths with anyone.

Chile’s Andean region remains a niche destination, except around San Pedro de Atacama.

Accommodations are scarce, public transport is pretty much nonexistent outside the Pan-American Highway, and prices are high.

That explains it...



A flock of pink bipeds is hiding in this photo.

Hard to get a better shot with my hybrid camera and its weak zoom...



We actually took a while to spot them!

It took a sudden takeoff for our eyes to catch the movement—and thus their presence.



Back at our starting point. The llamas, vicuñas, and flamingos have vanished.

All that’s left to wish us a safe return is this feathered couple!



Just like on the way there, it’s not exactly peak season for crowds.

How powerful that feeling of being alone in the world is!

Especially in such a magnificent setting.

Oh, a car! Pica can’t be far now...

We walk around the village, which isn’t exactly buzzing with activity.

Maybe on weekends?

We still find an open restaurant, and I once again surrender to the intoxicating charm of the Pisco Sour...

The signature drink of this trip? 😛

Lovely photos, they bring back great memories—thanks for posting them!

Last time I passed through the area, between Pica and the Huasco salt flat, there were quite a few sandy patches that were pretty tough to navigate. Back then, it was easier to head down from the salt flat toward Pica than the other way around. Looks like the road/track is in better shape now.

Around Pica, there are fossilized dinosaur tracks. If you’ve got time, check them out. Also, don’t miss the *cocha*/natural municipal pool—it’s totally worth it. There’s also the Chintaguay waterfall, which is really impressive but a bit hard to reach.

And finally, in this region, you’ve got to try the *maracuya sour* and *tumbo sour*—two local specialties. You won’t be disappointed!

Cheers! !

Thanks for all these additional sightseeing ideas for future travelers! 😉

I don’t know if the track has been improved since, but when I passed through, there wasn’t any problem. Maybe the season also affects the condition of the Andean "roads"? (Trip in June)

We've got 420 kilometers of road ahead of us today.

Long, long straight stretches, occasionally a bend...

Trucks, mines, mines, trucks.

Climbs, descents, and above all, desert everywhere!



The scenery improves dramatically as we approach San Pedro.



We pass through the famous town, which has really developed since my last visit about twenty years ago, and head to our reserved lodging, a chilly house in the village of Solor.

This rental isn’t recommended in winter due to the lack of effective heating. The owner opted for a gas space heater, which should only be used in semi-outdoor areas. The constant need for fresh air means it shuts off after a few minutes to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning...

Don’t oil-filled radiators exist in Chile?

Anyway, we froze as soon as night fell... Too bad, since we’re staying for 4 nights...

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves—off to enjoy the sunset from the viewpoints along the B241.

Only the Kari viewpoint is paid, as it’s part of the Moon Valley.

The Likan-Antay viewpoint, on the other hand, is free.

Though finding a parking spot is another story...

We’re far, *very* far, from the tranquility of the Huasco salt flat.

It seems every nationality on Earth has chosen San Pedro as their base for a Chilean vacation, and most have opted for the—*not* obvious, in my opinion—charms of a group excursion to get here...

It’s a bit of a free-for-all, especially since all the tours include an aperitif in their "sunset" package...

Thankfully, the beauty of the spectacle makes you forget the chaos in the background!















The big takeaway from this evening? Avoid wandering around Moon Valley in the late afternoon!

No desire to share the trails with hundreds of people...

What if we went tomorrow morning instead?

Whoooooa.... The sunset over Licancabur, the shadow creeping up and slowly devouring the volcano’s slopes... What memories. Thanks for the pics! 🙂 Whis

Thanks for all these additional sightseeing ideas for future travelers! 😉

I’ll raise a Tumbo Sour to you next time I’m in the area. 🙂

Maybe the season also affects the condition of the Andean "roads"?

Yes, that’s very likely. After the rains from December to March on the high plateaus, many tracks need to be redone!

Licancabur, the beacon of San Pedro! 😄

Cheers! 😉

The duvet was nice and warm, but it’s so hard to drag yourself out of bed when you imagine the polar temperature that must be waiting in the bathroom...

One, two, three—brrr!

Luckily, the sun starts peeking into the living room, and it’ll warm up our breakfast nicely.

By the time we leave our place, the temperature finally climbs well above 10°C, which is perfect for a little walk.

And guess what’s on today’s agenda: short hikes through the Moon Valley!

Perfect timing...

We’re now at the entrance of the site. We pay for our tickets, and an employee explains everything we can do in the area.

And most importantly, what we *shouldn’t* do—namely, driving off the tracks or walking off the paths.

Ready for a lunar expedition lasting a few hours?

Here we go!



Next time, will it be us on the bikes?

A few kilometers later, we spot the parking lot marking the start of the hike around the Duna Mayor.



Very few vehicles, very few bikes, not a single group.

Perfect!

We climb to the different viewpoints offered by this hour-long hike at a leisurely pace when suddenly, a voice breaks the silence.

"Are you with the group? Did you walk off the trail?"

Uhh, no, it’s just the two of us, and we didn’t set a toe off the path!

The voice then calls out to other tourists before finally finding the culprits...

Some French travelers in search of the perfect portrait with the desert as a backdrop—a portrait where the model posed *beyond* the limits...

We then notice that employees are strategically positioned along the trail, binoculars in hand, watching for the slightest misstep.

If a tourist strays, they’re immediately reported via walkie-talkie!

There’s some serious discussion going on behind us... What will happen to these fellow Frenchies? A hefty fine, maybe?

We’re not used to following rules, and often they seem absurd to us.

But in the end, the Chileans are absolutely right to control the flow—because the sight of a pristine dune is unmatched!

I can’t even imagine what these landscapes would look like if thousands of tourists could wander wherever they pleased!







The loop is complete, and we drive to the next hike.



The Achaches lookout points are just as spectacular as the viewpoints from Duna Mayor.

And just as closely monitored...

The hike takes about an hour, with a few sweaty climbs!







We have a picnic at the bottom of the valley.

I’m not sure if it’s allowed, but no one says anything...

Then we drive to the old salt mines and the Tres Marías, which aren’t the most interesting part of the excursion.

The road through the park ends here, so we turn back.

A lovely surprise awaits us near the exit: the fleeting appearance of a gray fox!



I hope it has a special permit to walk on the moon’s untouched soil...

Don't you fancy an ice cream or a cake?

Let's head to San Pedro then—we should find what we're after there!

A dusty alley, a church, a handful of restaurants and tourist agencies—that’s the memory I had of it.

I should warn you right away, this village has really grown!

We struggle to find a parking spot, then set off on foot in search of our sweet treats.

The simple white church still stands at the heart of the town, but its surroundings are quite different now.



Or is my memory playing tricks on me?

I don’t recall these rows of souvenir shops, this multitude of bars, or this overwhelming number of eateries.



We spot passersby enjoying cones—our ice cream place can’t be far now!

After a random sorbet, we head back to our cabin for a quick rest.

The day isn’t over yet—there’s still a sunset to admire!

Even though our morning ticket includes entry to the Kari viewpoint, we don’t feel like ending up in the middle of crowds and tour groups again, like yesterday.

So we decide to visit Laguna Tebinquiche instead. Its more remote location promises a bit more peace and quiet.

After 30 kilometers, we arrive at Ojos del Salar—two circular depressions filled with water that leave us pretty unimpressed.

I grab my camera to capture the moment, but the screen stays black...

Oops, the battery’s dead!

I’ll often find myself out of luck during this trip—and the next ones—because of this new Panasonic that doesn’t hold a charge like the old models...

My smartphone still has plenty of battery left, so we’ll make do with that!



The lagoon’s parking lot is just ahead.

Only a few cars—we should be able to enjoy the place in peace!

We pay for our entry and follow the well-marked paths leading to the water’s edge.



Licancabur volcano stands tall in the distance, surrounded by its smaller siblings.

The reflection of the volcanic range in the lagoon mesmerizes spectators snapping photos as the blue gradually gives way to a palette of pink hues.







Wait, isn’t that the French couple from this morning over there?

We’ll learn they had to put up quite a fight to avoid being kicked off the site, and they seem much calmer now in this lovely evening...

Closing time is approaching, so we head back.

The sun has set, and the moon is beginning its ascent.





Why didn’t I check my battery level before leaving the house???



Okay, San Pedro de Atacama is *super* touristy, but you quickly understand why!

Hi Agnès, I’m finally wrapping up this travel journal a bit late... I still haven’t gotten back into the VF groove 😉. Chile and Bolivia were on my to-do list, but after my struggles with altitude sickness in Peru two years ago, these destinations will remain a dream for me 🙁. Still, I’ll be following your adventure virtually—those latest sunset photos, even on a smartphone, are wow! !

Hi Isabelle,

I’m not sure we’ll ever go this high again. Personally, I’m okay except for a slight headache, but my partner is really struggling! 🤪

What would be ideal is if there were accommodations at lower altitudes, like in San Pedro. It’s really tough sleeping at 4,000 meters. 😕

Yes, I can confirm—it was already impossible for me in Chivay, which is at 3,600m 😅

If sleeping somewhere between 1500 and 2700 works for you, you could plan a trip to northern Argentina with a bit of flexibility. 😉

Yeah, why not, but for now it’s not on the list—which is already way too long 😊

To access the high-altitude lagoons, you need to book and pay for your entries on the indigenous community’s website that manages the sites.

Be careful, there’s a daily quota of available spots—once it’s gone, it’s gone!

We chose the option that allows access to the entire site, namely Miscanti, Miñiques, and Piedras Rojas.

The system is far from perfect because while booking and payment are done online (and only online!), the ticket is only issued in person.

And not just anywhere!

You have to show up an hour before the start of the visit (and not after...) at an office in Socaire to receive the precious pass.

This village is about 90 kilometers from San Pedro and has no network coverage.

So you won’t be able to complete your purchase on-site even if there are spots left...

The day had barely begun when we left our place, hoping to arrive at the Socaire ticket office by 09:30.



We’re at 3,200 meters above sea level, the wind is freezing, and we’re waiting our turn in front of the booth, bundled up in our warmest clothes.

No pre-printed tickets—the employee has to fill out a page as a pass.

Needless to say, it takes quite a while, and some reckless folks in shorts look like they’re about to turn into ice statues...

Ah, it’s our turn!

Ticket in hand, we still take a moment to linger in the village.

Socaire’s charms are limited: two closed churches!



We now set off on the ribbon of asphalt that leads to the lagoons and, beyond that, Argentina.

30 kilometers to reach the first ones, 120 to get to the border!





A sign on the left—we must be there.

Our tickets are carefully checked, then the pavement turns to gravel.



(To be continued in the next message—too many photos!)

What a fabulous panorama!

We stop at the different viewpoints over the lagoons and are left speechless by such wonders.







There aren’t many people around—we’re among the first for this time slot!

The only downside is the wind and the cold!



We’re now at 4,100 meters above sea level, and unlike the vicuñas, we don’t have the luxury of built-in warm wool...





The walks are short, but when you add them up, it still takes some effort.





We hit the international road toward the Salar de Aguascalientes just as loads of minibuses start arriving at Miscanti. We made it out just in time!

After a 50-minute drive across the puna and a cozy picnic in the car, we park in the huge parking lot at Piedras Rojas.





The site seems to attract every tourist within a 250-kilometer radius, judging by the number of vehicles parked...

We’re still above 4,000 meters, and the thermal sensation is just as polar.

Our tickets are scrutinized under a microscope again, and signs warn walkers to stick to the trails.

We follow the flow of strollers along a perfectly marked path.

The ice reveals its crystalline edges, encircling the Salar in a biting embrace.





The reddish rock contrasts with the lagoon-blue of the brackish waters.

The moment would be sublime if we could have the place to ourselves...

The scramble for the best selfie or portrait is almost underway, and the site’s magic is seriously diminished...





So, with a hint of bitterness, we continue toward the border post (Note: crossing is reserved for commercial vehicles).

60 more kilometers on the odometer, desert landscapes just as we hoped!

In every sense of the word...



Paso de Sico marks the edge of our playground—we have to turn back.

Take the same route?

I spotted a track that connects to Route B357, a parallel road to the one we’ve been on so far.

Should we try this alternative?



The track offers some lovely viewpoints but isn’t exactly a smooth ride.

Our average speed takes a hit...

On top of that, we keep gaining altitude and end up flirting with 4,800 meters.

Do we keep going or not?

Once we reach the B357, the road surface improves. We don’t feel like retracing the rough part, and it’s getting late.

Let’s keep going!



The bad and the good alternate—we’re completely isolated, and anxiety starts creeping into our minds.

How many more kilometers until pavement?

Estimates range from 40 to 70—we clearly bit off more than we could chew...

Laguna Lejia comes into view, and then we spot the silhouette of one, then two 4x4s.

Back to civilization?

The vehicles are branded with a park’s colors, and the passengers, in official uniforms, wave us down.

Where are you coming from? You can’t pass through here! You didn’t buy tickets—it’s illegal!

We realize we’re in a community-managed area with a visitor’s fee.

Well, there weren’t any signs, so we didn’t know!

We present them with a textbook case.

The community had never anticipated tourists arriving from the southeast!

Alright, there’s construction on the track—follow us to Talabre.

Perfect, that’s where we were supposed to meet the main road.

Now we’re under escort.







No time to linger and admire Volcán Láscar lighting up in the sunset!

It’s pitch black by the time we finally reach Talabre. But we’re not done with our "guardians" yet...

You have to pay now! And you don’t have a 4x4—it’s forbidden.

Using translation apps, we plead our case effectively—*palabras* in Talabre...—and end up paying only 10,000 pesos.

That’s the price of two senior tickets!

The employee assures us she’ll email our official receipts. We think we’ll be waiting a long time and that the money will end up in her pocket.

We were so wrong!

Exhausted, all we want now is dinner and rest.

That’ll happen in another 65 kilometers...

---/---

If we did it again, we should’ve turned back the same way.

The landscapes we rushed through seemed more than worth it and deserved a full day!

In the right direction, this time...

Your photos remind me of Bolivia. I love these landscapes.😊

After that, Bolivia is sometimes only a stone's throw away. 😉

My partner thought the Miscanti-Miñiques lagoons were the most beautiful natural site he’d ever seen.

A trip to San Pedro de Atacama isn’t exactly a walk in the park if you want to explore every nook and cranny of the Altiplano!

The already considerable distances to cover are compounded by the altitude you have to endure.

While this town sits at just 2,400 meters above sea level, the roads and tracks leading out of it climb to over 4,000 meters.

Today, we’ll be gaining even more altitude as we take International Route 27, which runs alongside Bolivia before veering toward Argentina. Both countries are accessible: one via the Paso Portezuelo del Cajón (4,482 m – dirt track), the other via the Paso de Jama (4,275 m – paved).

We’ll spend a good chunk of our day above 4,000 meters, which will really put some bodies to the test.

Starting from Solor, I’m the driver. I let my companion know our plan for the day and shift into gear.







The road rolls by, and the landscapes remain just as breathtaking.

I’m starting to think we’ve been driving for way too long.

Shouldn’t we have reached the turnoff for the Salar de Tara by now?

What turnoff?

The co-pilot’s a bit scatterbrained—we’ve gone way too far.

Oh well, we’ll just keep going almost to the border since it’s pretty close. Then we’ll turn back to the junction...

This detour adds a few dozen extra kilometers to our itinerary and, more importantly, an extra hour above 4,200 meters.

That’ll take its toll on our energy by the end of the day.

Ah! Here we are again at the viewpoint over the Pacana Caldera, a massive caldera stretching 60 kilometers by 32—we should see a track branching off to the right soon!







There it is!



The track first passes alongside the Monjes de La Pacana, unforgettable monoliths shaped by volcanism and erosion.





Then it crosses a sandy area, a dune zone with a pretty steep slope.

We don’t spot any other vehicles, and the tracks crisscross all over the place. Thankfully, we’d marked the route on Maps.me!



(To be continued in the next episode...)

Hello Agnès, I’m jumping in late, but with a lot of interest! Your favorite aperitif seems to be the Pisco Sour. What’s it made from? It’s for a friend—personally, I’m steering clear of alcohol to avoid motion sickness...😛

I noticed a track that connects to the B357 road, which runs parallel to the one we’ve taken so far. Should we try this alternative?

I’d already saved this alternative route to get back to SPA by passing through Laguna Aguas Calientes and Laguna Leija. Thanks for testing it out for us—we’ll avoid repeating your adventures 🤪 😉! And thanks for the booking link for the Miniques and Miscanti lagoons—I hadn’t read anything about that. The site doesn’t seem to work great, given how long the calendar takes to update. And it’s impossible to check beyond January 2025. Would you recommend 8:30 AM or 10:30 AM, and in what order (if there’s a preference)? Thanks

Alright, we’ll keep going almost to the border since it’s pretty close. Then we’ll turn back to the junction... This delay adds a few dozen kilometers to our itinerary and, more importantly, an extra hour at over 4,200 meters above sea level. That’ll take a toll after a long day in the mountains. Oh! Here we are again at the viewpoint over the Pacana Caldera, a giant caldera 60 kilometers by 32—we should see a track branching off to the left soon!

On the way back, doesn’t the track to Salar de Tara branch off to the right?

Hello Agnès, I'm jumping in late, but with a lot of interest! Your favorite aperitif seems to be the Pisco Sour. What's it made from? It's for a friend, because personally, I'm avoiding alcohol to steer clear of MAM...😛

Hi Guillaume, I’ll pick up where Attila left off—she’s not a morning person 😉: The Pisco Sour is made with Pisco (no kidding!), Peru’s national spirit, distilled from grape must. And MAM isn’t related to alcohol at all—you either get it or you don’t.

Hello Agnès

I’m also jumping in a bit late (lucky the virtual 4x4 is roomy!)

A NOA project starting from Salta + Iguaçu is still on my list... but your travel journal and its beautiful photos make me just as excited (though I still worry about altitude sickness, but if we don’t try...)

And MAM isn’t related to alcohol at all—you either have it or you don’t.

Even if it’s not related, it doesn’t exactly help things. Alcohol, just like sleeping pills or other sedatives, is strongly discouraged at high altitudes. Plus, MAM is sneaky—you might feel great and push yourself too hard, and that’s when it hits. For safety’s sake, especially when you’re young, it’s best to always hold back a little and stay below your limits.

The Sour pool is made with Pisco (sic), the national alcohol of Peru, produced by distilling grape must.

To avoid any issues, in Chile, Pisco is Chilean, and in Peru, Pisco is Peruvian!

Both countries argue over the origin of this alcohol and each has valid points to support their claim.

Note that Bolivians also have a very similar (if not identical) distilled spirit, but they’ve given it a different name: Singani.

Cheers!

Hey Guillaume,

Your favorite aperitif seems to be the Pisco Sour. What’s it made from?

I’ll add to Bruno’s explanation: egg white, lemon juice, and cane sugar syrup. 😛 It’s a common drink in Chile and Peru. Otherwise, SPA isn’t very high up—especially compared to the rest of the trip. Kind of like Val Thorens... So, a beer, some Chilean wine, or a Pisco Sour shouldn’t be a problem.

I’d already noted that alternative route to get back to SPA via Laguna Aguas Calientes and Laguna Leija. Thanks for testing it out for us—we’ll avoid repeating your adventures!

On top of that, part of the road is under construction with traffic stopped... I think this indigenous community wants its share of the pie and is improving their tour offerings to attract more people.

Going higher than Piedras Rojas is still worth it. Maybe just the very start of the track to get that great view of the lagoon. There’s almost no one in that area.

And thanks for the booking link for the Miniques and Miscanti lagoons—I hadn’t read anything about that. The site doesn’t seem to work great, given how long the calendar takes to update. And it’s impossible to check beyond January 2025. Would you recommend 8:30 or 10:30, and in what order (if there’s a preference)? Thanks!

Yeah, the site isn’t great... 🤪 I wonder if reservations are only unlocked month by month.

We booked in SPA two days before. June–July isn’t peak season. It’s winter, and nights are cold/freezing. In winter, the schedules change to adapt to a later sunrise—0900 and 1100. We took 1100. You need to be in Socaire by around 1000, so leave by 0830 to have time to wander. That means getting up around 0730. At night... 0900 would mean 0530. Pitch black, cold—*very* cold in Socaire! Plus, I get the impression tours all leave around 0600 for the first entries.

I don’t regret booking at 11. We were among the first at the Socaire ticket office, almost alone at the first two lagoons. There were people at Piedras Rojas, but since it’s the most “Instagrammable” spot, I think it’s always busy...

The slightly tense moment is at the red rocks spot with the lagoon. People take photos from every angle and take their time. Worse, if you don’t step forward when it’s your turn, they assume you’re not taking photos. A photo without people in it seems unimaginable to them... Still, it’s pretty reasonable overall. But it’s jarring compared to other completely deserted places...

If you start at Piedras Rojas, you’ll have to go to the two lagoons before heading higher, so you’ll take the same road multiple times. It makes more sense to go in order.

I’ll take this chance to emphasize the cold. In Uyuni, water bottles left in the car were completely frozen by morning. It was 7°C in the room. At El Tatio 20 years ago, it was -18°C before sunrise. During the day, it’s spring-like unless it’s windy.

Oops! You're absolutely right!

Let me correct that. 😊

We brought a cocktail specialist along in the 4x4! 😛 😉

Hey Muriel,

It seems like we don’t spend much time at high altitudes in northern Argentina unless we really go off the beaten path.

As for Iguazu, for me it’s number one in the top three. (So in order: Iguazu, Victoria Falls, and way behind, Niagara.)

For altitude, the best thing is to sleep below 3,000m and do day trips to over 4,000m, without spending too many hours above 4,200–4,500m.

For now, the highest I’ve been was in Ecuador. 5,100m. During the day! We’d slept a few nights at 4,000m. It wasn’t restful at all... Not a good sleep, and always a bit of a headache.

High altitude is fascinating. But so dangerous.🤪

Hey Guillaume

Your favorite drink seems to be the Pisco Sour. What's it made from?

I’ll add to Bruno’s explanation: egg white, lemon juice, and cane sugar syrup. 😛

Which makes it a really great cocktail! I’m gonna look like a total alcoholic on this forum …

Otherwise, SPA isn’t very high. Especially compared to the rest of the trip. A bit like Val Thorens...

To defend our Savoyard friends, Val Thorens still peaks at 3,200m at the top of the Cime Caron 😉 It’s not Mont Blanc, but it’s still a climb!