Back to the discussion

in Entre deux voyages › Carnets de voyage

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide (page 1 of 5)

Discussion started by Montagnard74 on 2025-05-16

97 replies

This thread has been translated into English.


Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-16 · Message 1 of 98

Preamble: . This isn’t about drumming up business for a new professional venture—just sharing, under pressure from eager Vf members hungry for juicy anecdotes, my 10-day trip to Marrakech with 10 friends. I’d mentioned during the planning discussion for this trip ((https://voyageforum.com/forum/questions-excursions-autour-marrakech-d10685703/)) that there wouldn’t be a travel journal... And since I’m a man of my word—but also stuck with a nasty calf muscle tear at the end of the trip that’s keeping me immobile for 15 days (more on that later)—I’ve got some time to dedicate to this. So, after this preamble, off we go to the Medina!

.

Day 1: Friday, May 2nd – The Day the Group Split

Before we dive in, let’s talk about the trip prep. Among my friends, I’ve got a rep as the go-to independent travel expert (thanks to a few trips, some with this same crew). So, naturally, the task of planning this one fell to me—and I took it on gladly (you’re never better served than by yourself, right?). The prep and itinerary were hashed out over multiple meet-ups (excuses?) during shared meals at one another’s places, guided by yours truly. Travel style, accommodation, sightseeing—all decisions were made together, trying to balance everyone’s wishes over a good bottle (generic term, not numerical!)

So, a group of five—including me and my girlfriend—set off for Geneva at 3 AM that Friday, while the rest would join us on Sunday due to family or work commitments. We’ll skip the EasyJet flight—it was nothing special, just a means to get us there safely (which, in itself, is already a win). We landed in Marrakech at 9 AM local time. There, a spotless Dacia Logan was waiting for us, chartered by MEDLOC, whose impeccable service I’ll praise here (thanks, friends, for the tip!). My first challenge, after loading the suitcases into the trunk: reaching the riad booked for our first two nights as the advance team. https://www.astradamusmarrakesh.top/fr/

I was a little nervous about driving here—Marrakech’s driving reputation precedes it. The hiccup? While setting up Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level-5 difficulty and enabled pedestrian mode... Imagine a rental car stubbornly trying for over half an hour to navigate the Medina (the riad was in the north), cursing all the pedestrians in streets too narrow for the car, and having to reverse multiple times because “it won’t fit,” ignoring the many Marrakechis waving to signal the street was impassable (but what are they trying to sell me now? 🤪)... Until my co-pilot, holding my phone, asked if it was “normal for the route to be dotted on Google Maps?” Yes, it’s normal—pedestrian mode was on.... We’ll still be laughing about this in the nursing home in 40 years, but at the time, I was genuinely surprised by what driving in Morocco had in store for me—and for good reason! After fixing the Google Maps settings, we arrived more calmly at the private parking lot (90 dirhams per night) and then at the riad, where we received a warm welcome while our rooms were being prepared.

After freshening up, we crossed the souks for the first time to have lunch at Jemaa el-Fna Square, at Zeitoun Café, where we enjoyed our first couscous or tagine on its terrace. We’d return to Jemaa el-Fna that evening after a restorative nap at the riad, another late afternoon in the souk, and an evening at this famous UNESCO World Heritage site. This time, it was the restaurant Lafarmacie (you can’t make this up!) that won us over, despite the lack of a rooftop. I recommend this place to everyone—the prices are great, the welcome is extraordinary, and the food is excellent...







Returning after 11 PM, we learned the hard way that the souk has its own entry points and hours, and the path to our beds was full of detours and closed doors. Fortunately, we were guided by friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-16 · Message 2 of 98

Day 2: Saturday, May 3rd: The Day We Discover the Atlas

For this tightly-knit group day, I’d decided to leave Marrakech. First, to get familiar with driving outside the city, and because my group—slightly more athletic than Sunday’s arrivals—could handle a light hike. So, I chose the Ourika Valley, our first steps into the Atlas, despite the mixed warnings from my VF advisors. But what’s better than forming your own opinion? We set off after a hearty breakfast at the riad, picked up the Dacia from the parking lot, and secured a spot for the next night before bravely heading toward Setti Fadma (this time by car!). Two hours of perfect roads, and accessing the valley via a winding but recently renovated route was no problem.



Once parked in the village, Mohammed took over. Whether an official guide or just a local Berber, he led us with his smile, kindness, and for 150 negotiated dirhams (3 € pp) to the first waterfall. The goal of reaching all seven waterfalls here—given the elevation—would have to wait for another trip! The place was indeed a bit (okay, a lot) crowded, with numerous stalls lining the path (slowing the pace) and a few tricky sections.







But Mohammed was attentive, and the whole group made it through without issues. The waterfall itself wasn’t extraordinary, but it was the perfect excuse to stretch our legs and explore the mountains. Plus, our guide had a few tricks up his sleeve and steered us away from the main, crowded path at that hour, leading us on a loop where we wouldn’t see another soul for about two hours—until we reached the parking lot. Or rather, the riverside restaurant. There, it was pure kitsch, but the setup was well-oiled, the service efficient and friendly, and the couscous, well, pretty good.







We really enjoyed the walk and the restaurant, but you could tell that in peak season, with all the infrastructure in place, it could quickly turn into a nightmare. For the group—and for me—it was our first taste of the Moroccan mountains. We were over 1,600 meters up, and the landscapes were stunning. But it was already nearly 5 PM, and we had to leave the valley and head back to the riad. A few manageable traffic jams on the way back. For the evening, we returned to Jemaa el-Fna Square for a new experimental adventure: dinner at one of the square’s *gargotes* (street food stalls)!! The experience was pretty mixed, given how many there are and the feeling that they just wanted to "sell you as much as possible" by the end of the meal. I’d avoid doing this with 11 people—even with 5, it was hard to make ourselves heard (No, sir, I don’t want 10 meat skewers per person!). But it’s something to try at least once... Back at the riad in the middle of the night, the square was already emptying, but we were now confident in finding our way...



If you want the next part right away, click here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10709679;a=10709679

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Kate · 2025-05-16 · Message 3 of 98

Oh, muscle injuries do have their upside! Especially when it’s someone else’s 😕 I hope you feel better soon, but in the meantime, let’s have some fun with this travel journal.

Driving in the Medina while being convinced you’ve got it all figured out and everyone else doesn’t get it—that’s quite the feat! Yeah, I bet you’ll still be laughing about this at the retirement home between making pom-poms and playing bingo…

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-16 · Message 4 of 98

Hello Kate, welcome! You’re the first one ;) Well, I finally have a little time to tell you all about it…

The thing was, I knew driving in Marrakech would be wild, so I wasn’t even surprised by the ride! But what a laugh we had that evening!

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Attila · 2025-05-16 · Message 5 of 98

Hey Bruno!

The snag is that when I programmed my Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level 5 difficulty and unintentionally switched to pedestrian mode...

Wow, no one’s ever shared that before!

Maps can also throw some surprises your way when you forget to specify you only want to drive on paved roads...

Hope your muscles feel better soon! 🙂

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Muriel18 · 2025-05-16 · Message 6 of 98

Hey Bruno Thanks to Kate for the heads-up—I’m second to board 😎. But what’s going on? No pre-dinner drinks or Sidi Brahim on the agenda yet? ???? 😏

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Elhine · 2025-05-16 · Message 7 of 98

Hi Bruno,

I’m not usually a big fan of travel journals, but this one really draws you in! The title is spot-on. Starting this journey by car in the medina and relying on a pedestrian GPS could’ve easily justified the classic title "Morocco Differently" 😎

Murielle

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Rouquine38 · 2025-05-16 · Message 8 of 98

Ah! I don’t wanna miss this travel journal, and I’ve already laughed so much about the GPS—it really does play tricks on us sometimes 😂



Love this photo 😊

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-16 · Message 9 of 98

Hello Bruno Thanks to Kate who tipped me off, I’m the second to board 😎. But what’s going on? No apéro or Sidi Brahim on the agenda yet????

Hey Muriel! Beat by Agnès! At this stage of the trip, no apéro or Sidi Brahim yet, but don’t worry—the final tally will be heavy!

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-16 · Message 10 of 98

Hello Agnès, thanks for being here!

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-16 · Message 11 of 98

“Morocco a different way” or rather Morocco for dummies 😄

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Holigirl · 2025-05-16 · Message 12 of 98

An unexpected travel journal is even more awesome! 🙂 Thanks for jumping in even with your injury taking up your time.

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Solene40 · 2025-05-17 · Message 13 of 98

"Oh well, here's a new travel journal and no one warned me! Anyway, luckily the ink is still fresh—I’ve got time to settle in." I’m returning the favor, Bruno 😄.

Anyway, we’re in sync when it comes to entertaining the VF crowd, and you had me laughing right off the bat. We had the same experience in Taroudant until a guy on a moped took pity on our panicked faces. He waved for us to follow him, led us to a nice parking lot... and refused the coin we tried to give him (a small difference from Marrakech, I guess). But he did agree to share some mint tea at the local café, and that was really nice.

Anyway, thanks already for the memories, and see you soon for the next part with the friends who are already here 😊

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Fangui · 2025-05-17 · Message 14 of 98

Hi there

Having worked as a volunteer guide in Morocco, I really understand the challenges of the job 🤔 You shared the preparations with such humor. The start there has turned out to be amazing! Can’t wait to read what comes next

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-17 · Message 15 of 98

😉 Welcome Françoise! Make yourself comfortable, I’ll bring the tea!

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-17 · Message 16 of 98

Hey Christelle! Simultaneous travel journals sound amazing! 😛

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Ajft25 · 2025-05-17 · Message 17 of 98

Back at the riad after 11 PM, [...] luckily guided by some friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)

Good evening! You have to pay for information? I can’t believe it... So this is what Marrakech hospitality has come to! Everything’s going downhill...😕

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Aleph240758 · 2025-05-18 · Message 18 of 98

I'm joining in too, my travel journal won't get far with all these journals to follow 😅 but I'm really enjoying all your adventures 🤩🤩

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-18 · Message 19 of 98

Good evening! Is information really something you have to pay for? I can’t believe it... So this is what Marrakech hospitality has come to! Everything’s going downhill...😕

Hello and welcome! It’s more than just giving directions—the person actually walks with you through the maze of alleys for a good while to show you the way. We experienced this both on foot and during our "car rodeo" through pedestrian streets. And at the end, when you’re finally on the right path, their hand is out... We were so surprised that we even suspected the person was doing it on purpose, leading us in circles about which souk gates were closed until we literally ran into one...

Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Montagnard74 · 2025-05-18 · Message 20 of 98

I'm arriving too, my travel journal won't get far with all these journals to followF603; but I'm really enjoying all your adventuresF937F937;

And that's the main goal here: to have fun! Welcome Marie Jo, let's try to make some progress this morning...

VoyageForum — the largest community of French-speaking travellers.