Marrakech 2025: My First Steps as a Private Guide

Preamble: . This isn’t about drumming up business for a new professional venture—just sharing, under pressure from eager Vf members hungry for juicy anecdotes, my 10-day trip to Marrakech with 10 friends. I’d mentioned during the planning discussion for this trip ((https://voyageforum.com/forum/questions-excursions-autour-marrakech-d10685703/)) that there wouldn’t be a travel journal... And since I’m a man of my word—but also stuck with a nasty calf muscle tear at the end of the trip that’s keeping me immobile for 15 days (more on that later)—I’ve got some time to dedicate to this. So, after this preamble, off we go to the Medina!

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Day 1: Friday, May 2nd – The Day the Group Split

Before we dive in, let’s talk about the trip prep. Among my friends, I’ve got a rep as the go-to independent travel expert (thanks to a few trips, some with this same crew). So, naturally, the task of planning this one fell to me—and I took it on gladly (you’re never better served than by yourself, right?). The prep and itinerary were hashed out over multiple meet-ups (excuses?) during shared meals at one another’s places, guided by yours truly. Travel style, accommodation, sightseeing—all decisions were made together, trying to balance everyone’s wishes over a good bottle (generic term, not numerical!)

So, a group of five—including me and my girlfriend—set off for Geneva at 3 AM that Friday, while the rest would join us on Sunday due to family or work commitments. We’ll skip the EasyJet flight—it was nothing special, just a means to get us there safely (which, in itself, is already a win). We landed in Marrakech at 9 AM local time. There, a spotless Dacia Logan was waiting for us, chartered by MEDLOC, whose impeccable service I’ll praise here (thanks, friends, for the tip!). My first challenge, after loading the suitcases into the trunk: reaching the riad booked for our first two nights as the advance team. https://www.astradamusmarrakesh.top/fr/

I was a little nervous about driving here—Marrakech’s driving reputation precedes it. The hiccup? While setting up Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level-5 difficulty and enabled pedestrian mode... Imagine a rental car stubbornly trying for over half an hour to navigate the Medina (the riad was in the north), cursing all the pedestrians in streets too narrow for the car, and having to reverse multiple times because “it won’t fit,” ignoring the many Marrakechis waving to signal the street was impassable (but what are they trying to sell me now? 🤪)... Until my co-pilot, holding my phone, asked if it was “normal for the route to be dotted on Google Maps?” Yes, it’s normal—pedestrian mode was on.... We’ll still be laughing about this in the nursing home in 40 years, but at the time, I was genuinely surprised by what driving in Morocco had in store for me—and for good reason! After fixing the Google Maps settings, we arrived more calmly at the private parking lot (90 dirhams per night) and then at the riad, where we received a warm welcome while our rooms were being prepared.

After freshening up, we crossed the souks for the first time to have lunch at Jemaa el-Fna Square, at Zeitoun Café, where we enjoyed our first couscous or tagine on its terrace. We’d return to Jemaa el-Fna that evening after a restorative nap at the riad, another late afternoon in the souk, and an evening at this famous UNESCO World Heritage site. This time, it was the restaurant Lafarmacie (you can’t make this up!) that won us over, despite the lack of a rooftop. I recommend this place to everyone—the prices are great, the welcome is extraordinary, and the food is excellent...







Returning after 11 PM, we learned the hard way that the souk has its own entry points and hours, and the path to our beds was full of detours and closed doors. Fortunately, we were guided by friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)

Day 2: Saturday, May 3rd: The Day We Discover the Atlas

For this tightly-knit group day, I’d decided to leave Marrakech. First, to get familiar with driving outside the city, and because my group—slightly more athletic than Sunday’s arrivals—could handle a light hike. So, I chose the Ourika Valley, our first steps into the Atlas, despite the mixed warnings from my VF advisors. But what’s better than forming your own opinion? We set off after a hearty breakfast at the riad, picked up the Dacia from the parking lot, and secured a spot for the next night before bravely heading toward Setti Fadma (this time by car!). Two hours of perfect roads, and accessing the valley via a winding but recently renovated route was no problem.



Once parked in the village, Mohammed took over. Whether an official guide or just a local Berber, he led us with his smile, kindness, and for 150 negotiated dirhams (3 € pp) to the first waterfall. The goal of reaching all seven waterfalls here—given the elevation—would have to wait for another trip! The place was indeed a bit (okay, a lot) crowded, with numerous stalls lining the path (slowing the pace) and a few tricky sections.







But Mohammed was attentive, and the whole group made it through without issues. The waterfall itself wasn’t extraordinary, but it was the perfect excuse to stretch our legs and explore the mountains. Plus, our guide had a few tricks up his sleeve and steered us away from the main, crowded path at that hour, leading us on a loop where we wouldn’t see another soul for about two hours—until we reached the parking lot. Or rather, the riverside restaurant. There, it was pure kitsch, but the setup was well-oiled, the service efficient and friendly, and the couscous, well, pretty good.







We really enjoyed the walk and the restaurant, but you could tell that in peak season, with all the infrastructure in place, it could quickly turn into a nightmare. For the group—and for me—it was our first taste of the Moroccan mountains. We were over 1,600 meters up, and the landscapes were stunning. But it was already nearly 5 PM, and we had to leave the valley and head back to the riad. A few manageable traffic jams on the way back. For the evening, we returned to Jemaa el-Fna Square for a new experimental adventure: dinner at one of the square’s *gargotes* (street food stalls)!! The experience was pretty mixed, given how many there are and the feeling that they just wanted to "sell you as much as possible" by the end of the meal. I’d avoid doing this with 11 people—even with 5, it was hard to make ourselves heard (No, sir, I don’t want 10 meat skewers per person!). But it’s something to try at least once... Back at the riad in the middle of the night, the square was already emptying, but we were now confident in finding our way...



If you want the next part right away, click here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10709679;a=10709679

Oh, muscle injuries do have their upside! Especially when it’s someone else’s 😕 I hope you feel better soon, but in the meantime, let’s have some fun with this travel journal.

Driving in the Medina while being convinced you’ve got it all figured out and everyone else doesn’t get it—that’s quite the feat! Yeah, I bet you’ll still be laughing about this at the retirement home between making pom-poms and playing bingo…

Hello Kate, welcome! You’re the first one ;) Well, I finally have a little time to tell you all about it…

The thing was, I knew driving in Marrakech would be wild, so I wasn’t even surprised by the ride! But what a laugh we had that evening!

Hey Bruno!

The snag is that when I programmed my Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level 5 difficulty and unintentionally switched to pedestrian mode...

Wow, no one’s ever shared that before!

Maps can also throw some surprises your way when you forget to specify you only want to drive on paved roads...

Hope your muscles feel better soon! 🙂

Hey Bruno Thanks to Kate for the heads-up—I’m second to board 😎. But what’s going on? No pre-dinner drinks or Sidi Brahim on the agenda yet? ???? 😏

Hi Bruno,

I’m not usually a big fan of travel journals, but this one really draws you in! The title is spot-on. Starting this journey by car in the medina and relying on a pedestrian GPS could’ve easily justified the classic title "Morocco Differently" 😎

Murielle

Ah! I don’t wanna miss this travel journal, and I’ve already laughed so much about the GPS—it really does play tricks on us sometimes 😂



Love this photo 😊

Hello Bruno Thanks to Kate who tipped me off, I’m the second to board 😎. But what’s going on? No apéro or Sidi Brahim on the agenda yet????

Hey Muriel! Beat by Agnès! At this stage of the trip, no apéro or Sidi Brahim yet, but don’t worry—the final tally will be heavy!

Hello Agnès, thanks for being here!

“Morocco a different way” or rather Morocco for dummies 😄

An unexpected travel journal is even more awesome! 🙂 Thanks for jumping in even with your injury taking up your time.

"Oh well, here's a new travel journal and no one warned me! Anyway, luckily the ink is still fresh—I’ve got time to settle in." I’m returning the favor, Bruno 😄.

Anyway, we’re in sync when it comes to entertaining the VF crowd, and you had me laughing right off the bat. We had the same experience in Taroudant until a guy on a moped took pity on our panicked faces. He waved for us to follow him, led us to a nice parking lot... and refused the coin we tried to give him (a small difference from Marrakech, I guess). But he did agree to share some mint tea at the local café, and that was really nice.

Anyway, thanks already for the memories, and see you soon for the next part with the friends who are already here 😊

Hi there

Having worked as a volunteer guide in Morocco, I really understand the challenges of the job 🤔 You shared the preparations with such humor. The start there has turned out to be amazing! Can’t wait to read what comes next

😉 Welcome Françoise! Make yourself comfortable, I’ll bring the tea!

Hey Christelle! Simultaneous travel journals sound amazing! 😛

Back at the riad after 11 PM, [...] luckily guided by some friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)

Good evening! You have to pay for information? I can’t believe it... So this is what Marrakech hospitality has come to! Everything’s going downhill...😕

I'm joining in too, my travel journal won't get far with all these journals to follow 😅 but I'm really enjoying all your adventures 🤩🤩

Good evening! Is information really something you have to pay for? I can’t believe it... So this is what Marrakech hospitality has come to! Everything’s going downhill...😕

Hello and welcome! It’s more than just giving directions—the person actually walks with you through the maze of alleys for a good while to show you the way. We experienced this both on foot and during our "car rodeo" through pedestrian streets. And at the end, when you’re finally on the right path, their hand is out... We were so surprised that we even suspected the person was doing it on purpose, leading us in circles about which souk gates were closed until we literally ran into one...

I'm arriving too, my travel journal won't get far with all these journals to follow
F603; but I'm really enjoying all your adventures
F937
F937;

And that's the main goal here: to have fun! Welcome Marie Jo, let's try to make some progress this morning...

we got confused about the souk gate closures until we literally walked into one...

All you had to do was set the GPS to "Medina on foot after 11 PM".

Well, I’ll be following this travel journal closely. Get well soon!!

we kept getting confused about which souk gates were closed until we walked right into one...

All you had to do was set the GPS to "Medina on foot after 11 PM".

Your comment reminds me of this famous Gad El Maleh sketch:

https://youtu.be/O8bsWD5dCFc?si=r9vpMy1O9060_9rW

We were there! !

Well, I’ll be following this travel journal closely. Get well soon!!

Thanks to you!

Day 3: Sunday, May 4th: The Day the Cavalry Arrives

Breakfast at the riad starts again at 8:30 AM. I’m feeling zen—the rest of the group lands at 9:00 AM, and I’ve booked a shuttle for six from the hotel to pick them up with a sign at the airport exit. Except at 9:45 AM, my phone rings—they’re still searching among the 200 signs for theirs... What follows is an endless scavenger hunt via my phone and the hotel manager’s, until the connection finally happens (or the taxi arrives—we’ll never know).

We welcome our freshly landed tourists on the hotel’s rooftop—finally, the group is complete! After a snack, my first challenge is to lead this whole troop through the souks without losing anyone, for another lunch on the square at Lafarmacie, the table having been booked the day before. Some in the group are taking their first steps in the Maghreb, and the surprise is strong! Along the way, we soak up the atmosphere at the many stalls...





Back at the riad, we grab our suitcases and the Dacia. A new taxi we hired will take the rest of the group to the villa.

The "wow" effect of the villa was expected, and it delivered! The generous budget for accommodation was part of the deal—we’re a big group, so we rented big! No less than 1000 m² for this three-level villa: 6 bedrooms, 7 bathrooms, 3 living rooms, a jacuzzi, private hammam, sauna, and pool. Plus, a manager, a cook on demand, a kitchen helper for breakfasts, a housekeeper, and a night watchman... If you want to splurge, it’s here: https://www.booking.com/Share-1qUv1mc

Room assignments—of unequal sizes—will be done by drawing lots, except for the royal suite my friends kindly offered us as thanks for the prep work. The gesture is much appreciated!





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The rest of the afternoon is dedicated to relaxation. Everyone gets settled, tests the pool, and I take a few friends to stock up on apéritif supplies, water, and sodas at the nearby Carrefour. It has a dedicated alcohol section, so we take the chance to fill the fridge with beers and wines. The rest of the supplies were split among our suitcases... I also pick up our second vehicle, a Dacia Lodgy 7-seater, still impeccably delivered on-site by the rental agency.

Tonight, dinner is at the villa—a fabulous couscous prepared over two hours by Rachid, our now-official cook. It’s nearly 10 PM when the meal ends. Tomorrow starts early, so we don’t linger to enjoy our palace of a thousand and one nights...



(Booking image for the last one)

Day 4: Visiting Marrakech: The Day I Lost One

I was pretty relaxed with the schedule for our trip. After all, it was a vacation too... But I had two non-negotiables: the day visiting Marrakech and the day in Essaouira. So, today was Marrakech day, with the Jardin Majorelle, the YSL Museum, the Confluences Museum, Dar el Bacha, and, if timing allowed, the Ben Youssef Madrasa on the agenda. Well, that was the plan on paper, anyway... It started off pretty well—we left on time for a 9:30 AM ticket to the Jardin, booked a month in advance (thanks, Françoise!). The visit lasted nearly two hours, the place was stunning, and the crowd was manageable in the early morning.









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That’s when I lost one. Or rather, *her*. M (we’ll call her M) hadn’t been feeling well since the morning, and she ended up making an offering in the vacant lot right next to the museum. No way we could continue—the group stuck together, and we headed back to the villa in fits and starts (with even an emergency stop on an avenue!). M went to lie down, and nobody was really in the mood to set off on new adventures.

So long, museums and monuments—back to Carrefour for a raid on salads and ready-made meals for a quick lunch at the villa. And while we were at it, we grabbed everything we needed for a barbecue evening! Marrakech would have to wait...

The evening was great and (very) lively. The retro projector and screen hooked up to the TV got us through karaoke, and it wasn’t until 11 PM that the neighborhood quieted down after one last loud rendition of *"Lac du Connemara"* . I even got scolded by the manager the next morning, who finally explained that quiet hours start at 9 PM but hadn’t told me "because you all seemed like older folks." Goes to show, appearances can be deceiving—and that a Moroccan can disrespect me .

Day’s tally: Cultural level—0. Fun level—100. But you only live once!



Another Booking photo—mine are just full of rowdy people

he hadn’t told me that « because you were old ».

😏😏😏 That really made me laugh! (given my age, I can allow myself!)

Still, the day had started off well. I hope things will improve quickly for M (and for the group).

The villa is gorgeous! 😍 What a thought—to rent a palace and then bail to go to the souks 😂😆

I hope the "oldies" sang until 2 a.m. the next day to get back at them for that insult 😄

I hope the "oldies" sang until 2 a.m. the next day to get back at them for that insult 😄

Since the neighbor was on the verge of calling the cops the night before, according to the manager, we didn’t really play it up. The Moroccan police don’t exactly seem like a barrel of laughs either 🤪

Day 5: Agafay Desert: The Day I Rest. . But before resting, we had to adapt. This Tuesday was supposed to be our visit to Essaouira, which M really wanted to do. But given his condition, he needed an extra day to recover, so we changed the plan. And Youness, our butler-manager, who I had asked to prepare our afternoon in Agafay for Wednesday, was able to adjust the schedule so we could do the outing today instead. We left at 3 PM in the VIP bus that took us to Agafay. Actually, instead of Agafay, we were dropped off by the van at the edge of Lake Lalla Takerkoust, where the activities and dinner-show were set to take place. The site is stunning—we overlooked the lake.

Google image to illustrate the place



First up, an hour of quad biking. There were about fifteen of us, riding in single file—one guide in front, one behind, and no overtaking allowed! Not exactly what I expected from a "desert" ride, and everyone was a bit disappointed (well, those who had done quad biking before). But safety first, as one of the guides told me when I asked for a little more "pep" in the ride... Still, the landscapes were gorgeous at times—a kind of cardboard *Lawrence of Arabia* vibe.

Google image



Moroccan snack bar .

Back at base camp, our rides were waiting for an hour of camel trekking—again in single file, but this time just our group (well, those who wanted to ride the "ships of the desert"). The walk was fun, and we made it playful as a group. The setting was magical—we strolled above the lake, near the dam.

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Back at the site, we were offered a refreshing drink and settled under the tents. Night began to fall, and the servers started their ballet, though the restaurant was barely full. Dinner was pretty classic—tajine AND couscous on the menu, so why choose? Then, for over an hour, musical artists, acrobats, and fire dancers took turns to liven up the evening. It was kitschy, but not unpleasant—we quickly got into the spirit... At 10:30 PM, we packed up, headed back to the villa, and everyone was happy with their day. Tomorrow, we wake up at dawn for Essaouira!

Hi! Thanks for this juicy description of the Marrakech "money pit," complete with quad biking, camel rides, desert, and belly dancing... 😎

a kind of cardboard Lawrence of Arabia...

A pretty standard dinner with tajine AND couscous on the menu—why choose?

One authentic detail though: a real Moroccan "diffa" (feast) includes several tajines in a row AND a couscous. All preceded by a méchoui, but that’ll send the bill through the roof. I can’t wait for Essaouira, with its operetta-like charm and the International Gnawa Connection. 😛

Of course we were totally cliché, just like "discover Paris in a 2CV", beret firmly on our heads... But we weren’t bothered by that, given how the trip turned out 😉 The real pleasant surprise was the location, right by the lake. For the rest, the pre-trip discussion on this forum had warned me—I knew what I was getting into...

Day 6: Essaouira – The Day We Saw the Sea

I’d asked for a 7 AM departure, and that’s what I got! Off we went to Essaouira, with the GPS showing 2 hours 30 minutes (in car mode!). We got to know the Moroccan highway at the start of the trip—21 dirhams for a stretch of impeccable asphalt. Then came the national road, a bit more chaotic but actually quite pleasant at the crack of dawn. We drove smoothly, dodging a few stray dogs and some zigzagging scooters, and a few kilometers before arriving, I suggested a 15-minute stop at a café on the edge of a village. Those 15 minutes turned into 50—I’ll never understand people who get up at the crack of dawn just to dawdle... but I went along with the group. We arrived in Essaouira around 11 AM, parked our cars in the (empty) Medina parking lot, and were surprised by how quiet it was. Turns out, Morocco doesn’t wake up early, and we enjoyed strolling through a very calm medina, a stark contrast to the souks of Marrakech.

The highlight of the morning was, of course, the visit to the port—its fish merchants and an atmosphere much livelier than in the medina. M stayed back, her sensitive stomach struggling with the smells. From the port, we walked along the beach before heading back to the sqala, the Mogador ramparts, and finally, at lunchtime, to one of the "restaurants" next to Place Moulay Hassan.











It was Restaurant No. 33 that won the group’s vote (the competition was fierce!), and we dove into a feast of grilled seafood. Everything was on the menu: shrimp, prawns, cuttlefish, octopus, spider crabs, sea urchins, plus all sorts of fish—red mullet, sea bream, monkfish—all for 100 dirhams, including starters, fries, and drinks! We came for the fish, and we weren’t disappointed!

But by 3 PM, we had a meet-up a few kilometers away at the Diabat Mosque, south of the city. Not for prayer, but because Sophie, the owner of a stables, had saved us six magnificent Arabian stallions for a 2-hour ride through the dunes and along the beach. The rest of the group wandered around the city in the meantime. By 5:30 PM, after a wild ride through the sand and waves, hair flying in the wind, bareback on our purebreds, we headed back to town. Okay, I might be getting a little carried away (a lot, actually)—given the group’s level, we settled for a light trot, but it was enough to make us happy...





Back in town, a bit of shopping, a good (non-alcoholic) beer on a bar terrace, and we were off again for the nighttime drive back to the villa. Luckily, the road was really good, and the kilometers of highway at the end flew by. We really loved Essaouira—its light, its vibe, its tranquility compared to Marrakech—even if the time we had was too short. One night there wouldn’t have been enough, but we’ve already had that debate...

To skip my chatty friends and continue, it’s here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10709955;a=10709955

When you're leading a group where not everyone is a big adventurer, you’ve gotta make a few compromises 🤷‍♂️. This just confirms my opinion on this so-called desert! I know this camp. The location’s nice, but calling it a desert? Really 😅. The main thing is that your group had a good evening.

Agafay has become THE must-see spot if you’re visiting Marrakech.

Brilliant marketing success!!!

Then for over an hour, musical artists, acrobats, and fire dancers will take turns to liven up the evening. It’s kitschy, but not unpleasant—you quickly get into the spirit....

It’s all embraced, so... And between these moments with friends and sitting alone in an office watching the rain, I know which I’d choose in a heartbeat ;)

5:30 PM, after a wild ride through the sand and waves, hair in the wind, bareback on our thoroughbreds

I think some photos are missing...

5:30 PM, after a wild ride through the sand and waves, hair in the wind, bareback on our thoroughbreds

I think some photos are missing...

Or maybe some truths I did say I got a little carried away with the lyricism...

it’s at 11 PM that peace will return

Oops! Better not have Bruno as a neighbor!

Or get invited to the fiesta.

she’ll pour her offering into the vacant lot just steps from the museum.

A trip without traveler’s diarrhea isn’t a real trip!

I’ll admit, it’s in Morocco where I’ve had the most of these kinds of issues. With India too...

1 hour of quad biking, there are about fifteen of us, single file, one guide in front, one behind,

You’re selling us a dream here! 😄

The last one must be eating a lot of dust...

Back at base camp, our mounts are waiting for us for an hour of camel riding, again single file, but this time just our group (well, those who wanted to ride the desert mounts). The ride is nice, and we make it fun as a group. The place is magical—we’re walking above the lake, near the dam.

It’s clear this isn’t really your usual thing, but with friends, it’s way more fun 😄



I really love this photo 👍

It’s true it’s not really your usual thing, but with friends it’s way more fun 😄

There’s a time for everything, and I enjoy every moment—whether it’s just the two of us or a group of 11!

I really love this photo 👍

Me too! That’s the work of our guide, who handled the iPhone like a pro!

that’s when calm returns at 11 PM

Oops! Better not have Bruno as a neighbor!

Or get invited to the fiesta.

There you go! Get invited to the fiesta!

it’s at 11 PM that calm will return

Oops! Don’t have Bruno as a neighbor!

Or get invited to the fiesta.

There you go! Get invited to the fiesta!

Great idea! Next time, give us the address and we’ll come party in your palace 😉

That’s our guide’s work—he handled the iPhone like a pro!

The best shot from our camel ride in India was taken by the guide with my smartphone :( (Still, Kate keeps spending money on new lenses)

That’s the work of our guide—he handled the iPhone like a pro! 😊

The best shot from our camel-back ride in India was taken by the guide with my smartphone :( (Keep spending money on new lenses, Kate)

That’s what I tell myself sometimes, especially about carrying that damn 10 kg camera bag 😵 But... is the quality there for the meet-up?

If we compare your photos and mine, it’s a done deal! !

it’s at 11 PM that calm will return

Oops! Don’t have Bruno as a neighbor!

Or get invited to the fiesta.

There you go! Get invited to the fiesta!

Great idea, next time you’ll give us the address and we’ll come party in your palace 😉

Oh yeah, the gilding, the kitschy canopy, the guys at the barbecue, the booze flowing, the pool and the lanterns, the karaoke… I’m all for it too. It’s good to let loose every now and then—it clears your head

That’s what I tell myself sometimes too, especially about carrying that damn 10 kg camera bag But... is the quality there for the meet-up?

Visually, for casual photos, yes. But a phone is still just a phone. Anyway, it’s a big debate. And I agree with you—even the 2 kg of my DSLR is starting to kill my neck.

Yeah yeah, the gilding, the kitschy canopy, the guys at the barbecue, the booze flowing, the pool and the lanterns, the karaoke... I'm into it too—it's nice every now and then, gives your head a break

But we also had discussions about the future of the world and humanity's place in its environment! No? Uh, no, actually

Anyway, my career as an intellectual anthropologist studying the origins of the Berber people didn’t last long…

Watch out, Kate, you’re getting all *framissima*!!

If your friends are all as funny as you, Bruno, I’m joining you too. Plus, I’m old (for the 20-year-old kids 😂) and I love karaoke 😆