While the big river is the one spanned by the famous bridge, it’s not the one of the two that’s most worth going upstream on—I know it less well. I’d advise against spending the night on a raft in Kanchanaburi when it runs alongside Thanon Song Kwae ("Two Kwai" Street, where the two rivers meet), because that’s where the many organized tours sleep, and they always stop in Kanchanaburi for the night. So it’s not ideal for your peace and quiet. However, on Thanon Song Kwae, you’ll find the best *kwai tieu reua* restaurant in the country (I’ve tried them all... 🤪 😎). It’s open from morning until 12–1 PM.
To get up close to the big Kwai, local agencies organize kayak trips of varying lengths that end up passing under the bridge. The prices are reasonable.
Still in Kanchanaburi, the little Kwai is where you’ll find the second Allied War Cemetery, just outside the city. After that, it’s bordered by the railway line shortly after it crosses the bridge over the big river. You can find some nice resorts in this area.
Going upstream on the little Kwai, you’ll eventually reach the Wangpo/Tham Krasae/Death Railway Bridge viaduct (three names for the same place). The river flows right beneath the viaduct (which you can walk across—the setting is stunning), and across from it is a floating hotel:
Continuing upstream, you’ll arrive at Sai Yok Yai National Park, which the river runs through and is easily accessible from the HQ office. Here, you can stay in four different types of places:
- The park’s bungalows, which are basic, lack comfort, and are expensive (starting at around 1,000 baht without A/C). Book them if you’re traveling on a weekend, as Thai people love them.
- Private accommodations (more or less official guesthouses)
- A few floating hotels
- And my favorite type of lodging here: the rafts (ask at the HQ office).
These rafts are very basic (no Western-style toilets, just one mattress on the floor or mats). The raft owner will first take you on a river tour before docking near a waterfall for the night (not the main Sai Yok Yai waterfall, as docking is forbidden there). A hearty dinner and breakfast are delivered by canoe by the family (who sleep elsewhere), and you can call them anytime to ask for anything edible. For the river tour, overnight stay, and meals, count on 2,000 baht for four people.
Sai Yok Yai:
Sai Yok Yai, raft moored for the night:
Sai Yok Yai, raft (invisible here) being towed for the tour, with a floating hotel on the right:
The Hellfire Pass Museum is quite far from the river.
Further upstream, you’ll reach Thong Pha Phum, a charming village perfect for a couple of nights. Near the "market square," there’s an accommodation spot whose name I’ve forgotten, and at the back of the square, the river flows by. Here, it’s relatively narrow because it’s just coming out of the Khao Laem Dam (which you can visit, possibly by motorbike—watch out for the monkeys, though; they’re not always friendly). At the back of the market square, on the left side, there’s a restaurant with a stunning view of the river. On the right side, a street runs alongside it more or less and eventually leads to a pedestrian footbridge that crosses it. I highly recommend taking it around 4–5 PM.
Beyond Thong Pha Phum, the little Kwai becomes a reservoir. On its western (Route 3272) or eastern (still Route 323 toward Sangkhlaburi) banks, you’ll find several resorts in very pleasant settings.
Finally, you’ll arrive in Sangkhlaburi, which is so charming that its peaceful setting might tempt you to stay for 3–4 nights. To the north, the lake turns into several rivers, one of which is the Kwai. For the lake or the rivers, don’t hesitate to rent a small boat (with a "driver") near the Karen Bridge for an hour or two. Several resorts and guesthouses line the lake. P. Guesthouse is very good (though some rooms don’t have a private bathroom), but its food is mediocre.
The Three Pagodas Pass (Dan Chedi Sam Ong) is ugly and not really worth the visit.
Sangkhlaburi, the (partially) submerged temple on the lake:
Sangkhlaburi, on one of the rivers:
