Accommodation on the River Kwai

Hi, Just to confirm, you're talking about the little Kwai, not the big one, right?

Hi, A quick search on Maps will surely give you some ideas. raft sleeping kanchanaburi - Google Maps

Hi there, Sure, but a "simple" search brings up results for both Kwai rivers on one hand, and on the other, so many options that it might not actually help. Which of these suggestions do you know?

Hi, Just to confirm, you're talking about the little Kwai, not the big one?

I’d love info on both—the big and the little one. I’ve been going to Kanchanaburi for the past 20 years to spend a few days by the river, but I’ve never gone further.

Thanks for the info. I’m still in the Stone Age with just my trusty walking stick as my tool 😏 I’ll check it out right away.

While the big river is the one spanned by the famous bridge, it’s not the one of the two that’s most worth going upstream on—I know it less well. I’d advise against spending the night on a raft in Kanchanaburi when it runs alongside Thanon Song Kwae ("Two Kwai" Street, where the two rivers meet), because that’s where the many organized tours sleep, and they always stop in Kanchanaburi for the night. So it’s not ideal for your peace and quiet. However, on Thanon Song Kwae, you’ll find the best *kwai tieu reua* restaurant in the country (I’ve tried them all... 🤪 😎). It’s open from morning until 12–1 PM.

To get up close to the big Kwai, local agencies organize kayak trips of varying lengths that end up passing under the bridge. The prices are reasonable.

Still in Kanchanaburi, the little Kwai is where you’ll find the second Allied War Cemetery, just outside the city. After that, it’s bordered by the railway line shortly after it crosses the bridge over the big river. You can find some nice resorts in this area.

Going upstream on the little Kwai, you’ll eventually reach the Wangpo/Tham Krasae/Death Railway Bridge viaduct (three names for the same place). The river flows right beneath the viaduct (which you can walk across—the setting is stunning), and across from it is a floating hotel:



Continuing upstream, you’ll arrive at Sai Yok Yai National Park, which the river runs through and is easily accessible from the HQ office. Here, you can stay in four different types of places: - The park’s bungalows, which are basic, lack comfort, and are expensive (starting at around 1,000 baht without A/C). Book them if you’re traveling on a weekend, as Thai people love them. - Private accommodations (more or less official guesthouses) - A few floating hotels - And my favorite type of lodging here: the rafts (ask at the HQ office). These rafts are very basic (no Western-style toilets, just one mattress on the floor or mats). The raft owner will first take you on a river tour before docking near a waterfall for the night (not the main Sai Yok Yai waterfall, as docking is forbidden there). A hearty dinner and breakfast are delivered by canoe by the family (who sleep elsewhere), and you can call them anytime to ask for anything edible. For the river tour, overnight stay, and meals, count on 2,000 baht for four people.

Sai Yok Yai:



Sai Yok Yai, raft moored for the night:



Sai Yok Yai, raft (invisible here) being towed for the tour, with a floating hotel on the right:



The Hellfire Pass Museum is quite far from the river.

Further upstream, you’ll reach Thong Pha Phum, a charming village perfect for a couple of nights. Near the "market square," there’s an accommodation spot whose name I’ve forgotten, and at the back of the square, the river flows by. Here, it’s relatively narrow because it’s just coming out of the Khao Laem Dam (which you can visit, possibly by motorbike—watch out for the monkeys, though; they’re not always friendly). At the back of the market square, on the left side, there’s a restaurant with a stunning view of the river. On the right side, a street runs alongside it more or less and eventually leads to a pedestrian footbridge that crosses it. I highly recommend taking it around 4–5 PM. Beyond Thong Pha Phum, the little Kwai becomes a reservoir. On its western (Route 3272) or eastern (still Route 323 toward Sangkhlaburi) banks, you’ll find several resorts in very pleasant settings.

Finally, you’ll arrive in Sangkhlaburi, which is so charming that its peaceful setting might tempt you to stay for 3–4 nights. To the north, the lake turns into several rivers, one of which is the Kwai. For the lake or the rivers, don’t hesitate to rent a small boat (with a "driver") near the Karen Bridge for an hour or two. Several resorts and guesthouses line the lake. P. Guesthouse is very good (though some rooms don’t have a private bathroom), but its food is mediocre. The Three Pagodas Pass (Dan Chedi Sam Ong) is ugly and not really worth the visit.

Sangkhlaburi, the (partially) submerged temple on the lake:



Sangkhlaburi, on one of the rivers:

Thanks so much, Songsam, for all these detailed tips! Just wondering—could you tell me what HQ is and how to book that raft that drifts through the jungle spots? It’s totally our thing, my wife and I—after the jungles of the Himalayas and Karnataka, we’re ready to welcome Thailand’s! Thanks again

HQ: Headquarters. Located around here: 14°26'17.32"N 98°51'5.03"E

a contact to book this raft that wanders through jungle spots?

I don’t know because I never book my accommodations, and I didn’t keep the contact details of the one I used. If you go from Monday to Thursday, you probably won’t need to reserve (weekends are busy with romantic couples and families out for fun. In the movie *The Deer Hunter*, it’s where Russian roulette contests take place). Try asking at the Kanchanaburi Tourism Authority (T.A.T.) on the main street, Saengchooto, not far from the bus station. They’re very friendly but not very efficient. Maybe they’ll agree to call the park’s HQ. T.A.T.: 14° 1'10.69"N 99°31'59.87"E

At Sai Yok Yai National Park, the rafts offering the option we’re talking about are right near the HQ here: 14°26'17.42"N 98°50'56.95"E

Drop all the coordinates above into your favorite search engine—or better yet, into Google Earth (online or on your computer).

Thanks again for all this info and for the photos.

Hi there,

Regarding rafting at Sai Yok Yai, while digging through my "archives," I happened to come across the business card below. Don’t rely on it blindly since it’s probably outdated, but it might help you describe the type of service you’re looking for (rafting, not a floating hotel) when you ask around at the park HQ or elsewhere.

Original version:



Google Translate version:

Thanks Songsam, I’ll keep that info for later. I also collect maps—they can always come in handy, for me or someone else.

What did you end up doing along the River Kwai?

Hi Songsam, I had health problems!!! Stuck all winter!!! It’s been a long time since that happened to us. It’s all sorted now, so we’re heading back in November. India, of course—can’t miss it for us. Then Vietnam for the first time, and Thailand, of course, with hopefully this time the discovery of the river above Kanchanaburi. On every trip to Thailand, we’ll spend a week or two in this village for the river, a few Burmese friends, and also the gemstone market. Thanks again for all the info you gave me—I hope I can use it this time.

Good evening Prem,

Oh no! Well, India, Thailand, Vietnam—you’ll make up for it, I guess. Only the departure is in November, and the return will be later, right?

Is it Kanchanaburi that you’re calling a "village"?

Hi Songsam, Yes, about 3 months. I haven’t sorted out the flight tickets yet. I just hope they haven’t gone up too much!! You’re right, Kanchanaburi isn’t a village! Guess I need to change my glasses!!!

If you're in Kanchanaburi at the right time, know that the River Kwai Bridge Festival takes place every year from late November to early December. Depending on the year, it starts around the 25th–27th of November and lasts about ten days. There’s a historical reenactment show with sound and light on the bridge, an exhibition of old locomotives* at the main station, a funfair**, and more. It might be worth booking your accommodation in advance. For the show on the bridge (easily visible from the tourist bars and restaurants along it), I recommend going the day before it officially starts, during the dress rehearsal—there are far fewer people, and the show is just as good. Plus, that’s the day the provincial governor attends, so you’ll have more space to yourself.

* Unfortunately, they’re in pretty bad shape—some don’t even have all their connecting rods. ** In that area, beyond the railroad crossing on Saengchooto Road/Route 323 heading northwest out of town: 14° 2'48.93"N 99°30'20.50"E

My photo isn’t great—you can find more spectacular ones online.

Thanks for the info! I attended something similar back in 2012 around this time—no VIPs or speeches, though. I think I got there mid-festival. This time around, we’ll be in Thailand in January instead. Next time!

I attended something like this around the same time in 2012, but without the VIPs or speeches.

I didn’t see any VIPs or speeches either.