Martine from DD in Arizona and New Mexico (page 1 of 4)

Good evening everyone! 🙂

We’re back from our September 2025 road trip, this time to explore Arizona and New Mexico, and it’s time for me to start my travel journal—especially since everything’s already booked for another trip in September 2026 (to California), and I need to get started on the planning.

I was a little worried this new visit to Uncle Sam’s country might not be as "wow" as the others, but we still discovered some incredible places.

For those who don’t know us, we’re a couple in our seventies who speak very little English, but that didn’t stop us from fully enjoying our stay.

For this 6th road trip in the U.S., we spent 21 nights there, drove 4,160 km by car, and walked nearly 160 km in a loop starting from Phoenix.

We’d been to Arizona before (but not this side) and never to New Mexico. This whole road trip was a huge discovery for us.

In the prices mentioned (some in euros, others in dollars), bank fees and exchange charges are included. The flights, car rental, and parking were all paid for in December 2024 when we booked.

We’d downloaded the MPC (Mobile Passport Control) app, but there wasn’t a dedicated line at Phoenix Airport. Still, we got through quickly with friendly, smiling agents.

I don’t drive at all (I hate it), so the stops were chosen based on activities but also, for some, to limit daily mileage for the sole driver. The kilometers listed in the itinerary are the daily distances.

We traveled from September 9th to 22nd, unfortunately once again without our dear friends Mimi and Maumau.

The itinerary



Day 1: Flight Marseille-Paris-Phoenix, then Gold Canyon (133 km) Day 2: Tucson (271 km) Lost Dutchman State Park Day 3: Tucson (155 km) Day 4: Tucson (34 km) Day 5: Bisbee (182 km) Day 6: Lordsburg (345 km) Day 7: Las Cruces (253 km) Day 8: Alamogordo (162 km) Day 9: Roswell (264 km) Day 10: Tucumcari (369 km) Day 11: Las Vegas (281 km) – the one in New Mexico Day 12: Taos (213 km) Day 13: Santa Fe (224 km) Day 14: Albuquerque (123 km) Day 15: Gallup (246 km) Day 16: Holbrook (224 km) Day 17: Flagstaff (179 km) Day 18: Sedona (118 km) Day 19: Sedona (48 km) Day 20: Sedona (41 km) Day 21: Phoenix (256 km) Day 22: Phoenix Airport (35 km)

📊 **Budget**: A little over 7,500 € for both of us, all included. The exchange rate was in our favor (1.17 dollars to 1 €). 📊 **Flights**: Marseille-Paris Charles de Gaulle-Phoenix: 1,787 € for two, with one checked bag each (Air France) 📊 **ESTA**: $42 📊 **America the Beautiful Pass**: $80 📊 **Parking**: 134 € (super eco at Marseille) 📊 **Car rental (Hertz)**: 865 €. Since there were no SUVs left in the reserved category (Nissan Rogue), we got an upgrade (4x4 Ford Explorer). We booked through Air France (15% discount). We’d originally reserved it in December for 1,140 €, but since prices dropped in March, we canceled and rebooked for 865 €. Hertz offers a free Hertz Gold Plus Rewards program, which gives you priority counter service when picking up the car. 📊 **Accommodation**: 2,400 € We stayed in hotels and motels of varying standards (from 60 to 203 € per night, depending on the city), all booked through Booking.com or Hotels.com. Out of 21 nights, only two didn’t include breakfast in the price. Booking.com sometimes offers slightly cheaper rates if you book by phone using the mobile app, and our Genius 3 status on the site also got us some preferential rates. 📊 **Supplementary insurance**: AVA 200 € for medical care if needed 📊 **Cash**: $2,078. We left with 1,000 € exchanged before departure and made two withdrawals of $500. This cash covered: - Evening restaurants and tips - Midday picnics - Gas: $298 for 4,160 km - Museum and private park entries (per person): - Lost Dutchman: $10 - Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum: $28 - Bird Cage Theater: $16 - Tombstone Shootout: $8 - New Mexico Farm & Ranch Museum: $12 - Roswell International UFO Museum: $5 - Billy the Kid Museum: $7 - Rancho de Taos: $22 - West Fork Oak Creek Trail entry: $15 We got a few discounts thanks to our senior age (+65). - Souvenirs and little treats

Like on our previous road trips, we didn’t rent a GPS. We got around using offline GPS apps Here WeGo and Organic Maps, with maps of the states we visited downloaded before we left (on our phones).

❤️❤️❤️ **Highlights** (there are so many!) 📍 Goldfield Ghost Town (even if it’s a reconstruction) 📍 The standing army of Saguaro cacti at Saguaro National Park West 📍 Diving into the cowboy universe of Tombstone 📍 The welcome from Rick and Henry at our guesthouse in Bisbee (Garden at Mile High Ranch) 📍 The tangled rocks of Chiricahua National Monument 📍 The flavored pistachios from Dwayne’s Fresh Jerky and Mac Ginnis Pistachioland 📍 Restaurants: La Posta (Las Cruces), Diner 66 (Albuquerque), and the Haunted Hamburger (Jerome) 📍 The old plazas of New Mexico 📍 The solitude and beauty of the white dunes at White Sands National Park 📍 Stepping back in time at the Billy the Kid Museum (Fort Stanton) 📍 Sections of historic Route 66 and the old motels of Tucumcari, especially at night when all the neon lights are on 📍 Taos Pueblo and diving into Native American culture 📍 After the Rio Grande Bridge, the descent via NM 567 to the very bottom of the Rio Grande Gorge, then the road along the riverbanks to Taos 📍 The tranquility of the Chimayo Sanctuary 📍 Discovering the ingenious native dwellings at Bandelier National Monument and Walnut Canyon National Park 📍 The small towns along the Turquoise Trail 📍 The red rocks of Red Rock Park and the Painted Desert 📍 The extraordinary colors of the petrified trees at Petrified Forest National Park 📍 Sedona, its red rocks, and the reward of the viewpoints at the end of hikes (Devil’s Bridge, The Subway, and West Fork Oak Creek) 📍 The immersion in Mexico when visiting Tlaquepaque 📍 The almost-ghost town of Jerome and its terraced streets 📍 The incredible kindness of Americans, always ready to help and up for a chat ❤️

☹️☹️☹️ **Flops** (there are very few) 📍 Several museums and churches being closed, so we couldn’t visit them 📍 Some museums and visitor centers opening late (10 AM) and closing early (4 PM) 📍 A 64 € phone roaming charge because we got near the Mexican border and picked up their cell tower 📍 The outrageous price ($5.99) for a gallon of gas at the Shell near Phoenix Airport

I hope this helps! Anyway, thanks for reading my long post. Don’t hesitate to reach out, even via PM, if you see I haven’t replied and you’d like more details. Have a great evening, everyone! 🙂

J1 September 9: Marseille-Paris-Phoenix-Gold Canyon Best Western Gold Canyon Inn & Suites: 121 euros (including bank fees). Small hotel with breakfast MO, fridge, pool

Since our flight was taking off at 6 AM, and with the "pilot’s foot" we always allow ourselves to feel at ease on the road, we chose to spend the night in Marignane to avoid getting up at 1 AM. The 90 euros for the Ibis Budget, right next to the economy parking lot, let us enjoy a stress-free night. The flight went smoothly with very attentive and friendly flight attendants (Air France). A small disappointment again this year for me, who travels with my nose glued to the window, because of the clouds that were present for almost the entire flight. Fortunately, during the flyover of Greenland, there was a break that allowed me to take a few photos. Going through immigration was pretty quick, even though there wasn’t a line for the MCP, which the Phoenix airport is equipped with. A little stress when picking up the car because there were no SUVs left—so we got an upgrade and ended up with a huge Ford Expedition 4x4. For once, Here We Go decided to work right from the start, and we left Phoenix immediately (less than 2 hours after landing) to head toward Lost Dutchman State Park, where I’d planned a short hike. Even though we didn’t want to stay in big cities, we really liked Phoenix’s location, nestled between the peaks of the Superstition Mountains on one side and the desert on the other. It’s 2:30 PM, and it’s 42°C. It feels like a giant hairdryer is blowing over the city. Good grief—six lanes on the highway, roads above, roads below!!! Luckily, DD is driving, and it’s not rush hour. We checked into the hotel in Golden Canyon (50 km from Phoenix) then headed to Goldfield Ghost Town. Goldfield Ghost Town



- It reached its peak at the end of the 19th century during the gold rush, then declined, and was eventually restored. Even though we know it’s a reconstructed town, we really enjoyed wandering among the old houses, letting our imagination run wild with each discovery.







Plus, it’s practically at the foot of the stunning Lost Dutchman State Park. In the end, the hike planned for that day was rescheduled for the next day due to lack of time. We continued our cowboy immersion by having dinner at the saloon, right in front of the mountain, at the Mammoth Steak House (a fun way to celebrate our 47th wedding anniversary), but it was just okay for the price.

Tortilla Flat After that, we headed to Tortilla Flat for a quick visit. The sun was starting to set, and the road wound upward. The rocks of the Superstition Mountains turned golden and yellow. Occasionally, a rock spire (the Needles) would rise up. It was gorgeous. The road continued between high cliffs that took on pink hues in places around a small lake. The first saguaros appeared. It was stunning. For us, it was a first—we’d never seen desert landscapes like this before. We loved it!! Of course, by the time we arrived in Tortilla Flat, everything was closed, and the sun had practically disappeared!! No big deal!!! Before turning back at the point where the road turns into a dirt track, we took a few more photos of the three or four well-preserved houses that make up this town, which was a stagecoach stop in the early 1900s.

In the distance, the mountains and cacti stood out as silhouettes against beautiful color gradients as everything slowly darkened. A little gift upon arriving at the hotel: a cute coyote calmly crossed in front of us (I’ll spare you the blurry photo I took). Well, it’s been 30 hours since I last slept—time to hit the hay!

Day 2 Gold Canyon - Tucson Best Western Inn & Suites Tucson Foothills : 204 € for three nights. Really friendly welcome at this hotel with breakfast, AC, fridge, and pool.

Left the hotel at 7 a.m. (it’s great when they serve breakfast early). Lost Dutchman State Park We started there since we didn’t have time to hike yesterday. It was already hot (29°C) even though it was early. The walk isn’t long, and at that hour, the steepest section was still in the shade, making the climb easier. We left the car at the Saguaro parking lot after paying $20. The entrance to this park is paid because it’s not a national park but a state park. Map in hand, we started climbing at 7:40 a.m. We chose a loop of just under 6 km that combines three trail sections (Jacob’s Crosscut, Prospector’s Trail, and descent via Treasure Trail). The beginning is flat, among the cacti—some had tiny flowers.

Out of the three, only one climbs (over 1 km). It’s easier counterclockwise (fewer uphill sections). We really enjoyed this short hike, which gave us a great view of the desert. By the time we finished, after an hour and a half, it was already 38°C, and it didn’t seem like it was going to cool down. We left Gold Canyon, with its pretty houses and gardens full of cacti. This little stop is nice for those who don’t want to stay in Phoenix. The road to Tucson is surrounded by desert fields. Everything is dry, and it feels like the plants are suffering (black trunks, drooping leaves) for kilometers. Saint Anthony Greek Orthodox Monastery This was our second stop.



It was built 30 years ago in the Sonoran Desert after six monks arrived with the goal of establishing a monastery. The first impression is striking—a beautiful old white monastery on a hill, an oasis of greenery in the middle of the desert: flowers everywhere, singing fountains, citrus orchards, olive trees, and beautiful chapels filled with precious objects. The buildings and religious objects inside are stunning, but it felt like too much wealth for me. All that gold isn’t cool when so many people are in need. Plus, we had to dress according to their strict rules (hair covered, closed-toe shoes and socks, long skirt, long-sleeved shirt for DD and me). If we had to do it again, I’m not sure I’d stop. On top of that, while the nuns were friendly, the monks seemed tense and unsmiling. Quick stop at the Tom Mix Memorial. We had our picnic in this rest area, which commemorates the spot where Western actor Tom Mix died in a car accident in 1940, complete with a lovely statue of his horse. As we got closer to Tucson, the road ran alongside tall mountains with jagged peaks. It’s all so pretty... And to finish off this otherwise great day, a *massive* flop—you need one every now and then to keep things interesting. We dropped off our bags at the hotel and headed out at 3:40 p.m. as planned to Saguaro National Park’s east side, only to find out the visitor center—where we were supposed to buy our America the Beautiful Pass—was already closed by 4:45 p.m. 🤦‍♀️ And there was no one in the booth. There *was* an automatic machine, but my English is so bad I wouldn’t dare try it—I’m pretty sure it could swallow my credit card after a wrong move. So, 70 km round trip from our hotel, and we had to turn back without even setting a tire in the park! With all that, it made for a day of over 270 km. Poor DD, who’s the only one driving. Luckily, the hotel’s jacuzzi and pool were there to console us. Tomorrow promises another great day of exploring. Great meal for $78 at The Parish: 1 burger, 1 seafood pasta dish, and 2 beers. It was really good, filling, and just 700 m from the hotel

September 3rd, Tucson A pretty packed day today. With our late arrival at Saguaro East yesterday, we need to fit in both Saguaro East and West, plus a visit to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. We’ll start with the museum to try and see as many animals as possible before the heat drives them into their burrows.

Another early wake-up (4 a.m.), but we’re used to it with the jet lag. Cool—it lets us get an early start. By 7:25, it’s already 29°C (84°F), and we’re on the road heading to Saguaro National Park West, about 30 km from our hotel. We’ll stop at the museum along the way. We’re surprised by how smooth the traffic is for a city this size. As soon as we hit W Gate Pass Road, the landscape changes. After the small hills, the road winds like a rollercoaster through tall red hills, where an army of giant cacti stand straight as I’s, packed tightly together, their arms reaching toward the sky. With the morning light, it’s truly stunning. This variety of tree-like cactus, called Saguaro, is the emblem of the Sonoran Desert in Arizona and northern Mexico. They can grow up to 15 meters tall. Their growth is very slow (at 25 years old, they’re only about 30 cm tall), and they can live for 200 years. Their unique feature is branching out and raising their arms toward the sky. Each one is different, which is a delight for us. Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum Before diving into the national park, we make a quick stop at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum—a mix of zoo and botanical garden—to get in the mood. We stroll along paved trails, stopping to admire the plants and animals (bears, mountain lions, squirrels, beavers, wolves, foxes, javelinas...) found in this part of the U.S. (mountains, prairies, cactus gardens). There’s even a vivarium, a terrarium, and an aviary. We spend a little over two hours there.



DD even got attacked by a cholla while standing in the middle of the path. Luckily, the spines got stuck in the sole of his shoe. A few centimeters higher, and they would’ve gone through the fabric and into his foot. We had a good laugh trying to remove it—the cholla kept jumping from one shoe to the other! After seeing how hard it was to pull out, we realized he was lucky. After that incident, the tweezers never left the backpack. It was interesting for us, but we still wondered about the quality of life for the animals in the enclosures. Saguaro National Park West It’s just a few kilometers from the museum. We stop by the visitor center to buy the America the Beautiful pass, then start our visit by taking the Scenic Bajada Loop Drive—a 15-kilometer easy trail winding through a stunning landscape of dry washes and hills, filled with cacti of all shapes.

We couldn’t find the start of the first hike we’d planned (Valley View Overlook Trail), so we turned back after wandering for a while in a wash under scorching heat (34°C/93°F). We discovered that the skeletons of these giants are made of very hard wood, which can be used for construction (if you look closely in the middle of the photo, you can see a lizard hiding). We stopped for a picnic at Signal Hill Petroglyphs—a very easy and fun spot—and discovered the petroglyphs, which are easily accessible.

Since we didn’t hike much in this first part of the park, we decided to head to the East section. Old Tucson Studios, which is gearing up for Halloween, was closed that day. We made a quick stop at Gate Park Scenic Lookout. Unfortunately, just at that moment, a huge cloud blocked the sun and muted all the colors of this very photogenic spot. We should’ve stopped there this morning. You can see the famous cholla, or "jumping cactus," responsible for very painful stings.

Day 3 Tucson: Rincon Mountain Saguaro National Park East (continuation of J3)

The two parks are about fifty kilometers apart. Along the way, we happily rediscover the armies of saguaros on the hills. During the drive, the big gray cloud that had muted the colors at the Gate Park Scenic Lookout turned into dark clouds on the horizon. We stop at the visitor center to check the weather for the next day since we planned to hike in Sabino Canyon. We start the beautiful Cactus Forest Loop Drive clockwise. Many prefer the west side of the park. Personally, I loved this tiny road winding through the cacti, with the mountains in the background, offering us one stunning viewpoint after another. At one of the viewpoints, a photo taken in 1935 at this very spot shows us how much more abundant saguaros were back then, even if they seem everywhere now.

In 1935 Now We’re lucky to escape the brewing storm, but we still decide to cancel the hikes since we can hear thunder rumbling in the distance. The lightning show is beautiful but far from reassuring.



It was a great day despite skipping the hike. We saw some amazing things, and even if DD is starting to get a little tired of the cacti, I love them—they let my imagination take flight once again. Excellent meal at Hifalutin Rapid Western Grill for $85: two huge portions again (ribs, chicken with capers) with one beer and a soda. Tomorrow at noon, it’ll be rib wraps, and the weather should be nice and hot! The climb up to Seven Falls might be tough.

Day 4 Tucson Sabino Canyon: the 7 Falls

Will I ever manage to wake up after 4 AM!!! Unlike the rangers' forecast yesterday, it rained last night. So it's cooler (29°C), which is great for hiking. On the other hand, it's overcast, and there are still some really big gray clouds toward where we're headed, and that's less great. Mountains and flash floods don’t mix well with hiking. But we’ll head there and see how it goes.

7:10 AM, we're in the car. Sabino Canyon is only about twenty kilometers from the hotel. We can enter with the America the Beautiful pass, which must be visible on the car’s windshield in case of inspection. The canyon is crisscrossed by many hiking trails, and we planned to climb up to the "Seven Falls." The hike is listed as 13 km with 200 m of elevation gain and takes between 4 to 6 hours. We can shorten it by taking a shuttle that cuts 5 km and 50 m of elevation. No way! We’re hiking from the Visitor Center parking lot. Plus, the first shuttle doesn’t start running until 9:15 AM, and it’s 7:40 AM—no way we’re waiting. Since we’re hoping there might be water in the river, we came prepared: water shoes, trekking poles, swimsuits, straps. We’ve got dried fruit, cereal bars, and 6 liters of water—we’re all set. We start under a gray sky; if it holds, we’ll stay cooler, but the clouds quickly disperse, and the sun comes out.

We start the hike at 29°C. We begin walking on pavement (you can also take a small trail that goes up and down through the desert vegetation, following the paved road) and then arrive at the start of the Seven Falls (you can see the faucet where you can refill water).

It’s a really fun hike, climbing up a canyon along a narrow path surrounded by stunning rock formations through vegetation that starts off lush and then becomes more desert-like, but with saguaros everywhere.

Even though it’s been climbing since the start, the trail meanders gently along the river, which we’ll have to cross from one bank to the other seven times. We’re coming from way down there.

The trail is narrow, but the mix of climbs and descents and flat sections lets you catch your breath.

Then the slope gets much steeper and narrower over a long stretch. It gets even steeper until we reach an overlook above a series of waterfalls (seven of them) and small pools surrounded by high cliffs. It’s so beautiful!!! With water, it must be amazing!! Life is good!!!!

Today, the river was completely dry, but in the spring, hikers can swim in it.

Even without water, it’s gorgeous—tall cliffs, pretty green vegetation, beautiful gray rocks streaked with white, slide rocks, sand, a goat path (pretty tough, gotta admit), armies of saguaros... we’re ending our stay in Tucson with a really nice hike.

At 12:30 PM, we’re back at the car. The hike wasn’t too hard, though we did struggle a bit with the heat on the last few kilometers. Luckily, the water point at the start of the hike let us wet our heads and T-shirts to handle the 34°C. We took just under 5 hours.

We head back to the hotel for a little nap. I’d planned to visit the historic district (El Barrio Viejo) and the Old Town Artisan afterward, but neither of us is thrilled about getting back in traffic. So we head to the spa and pool instead. Another great meal at the Italian restaurant Oreganos, where we feasted on two shrimp pasta dishes, a beer, and a soda for $65.

Tomorrow, a total change of scenery—we’re off to Tombstone to meet the Earp brothers!!!

Day 5, September 13 – Tucson to Bisbee $14 + 140 € per person for breakfast We absolutely loved this place, a bit off the beaten path in Bisbee. It consists of small, well-equipped apartments set in a huge, blooming garden. Rick and Henry gave us a very warm welcome (with welcome cookies!) and speak a little French. The breakfast served in the room was excellent.

San Xavier del Bac Mission Our first stop was the San Xavier del Bac Mission, also known as the "White Dove of the Desert" because of its dazzling white walls. In the middle of nowhere, this Catholic church is located on an Indian reservation. It was founded in 1692 and completed in the late 18th century to convert the local populations under Spanish rule (it’s a great example of Spanish colonial architecture), then later under Mexican rule before becoming part of the U.S. It still serves the Native American community for which it was built.

We even saw them setting up stalls to sell souvenirs and traditional dishes. The mission also includes a school and a convent. We didn’t visit the inside of the church because it wasn’t open yet. However, we noticed the poor living conditions around the Indian reservations, similar to what we’d seen on previous road trips.

We got back on the highway. Suddenly, with a thunderous roar, a biker without a helmet, gloves, or even hands on the handlebars of his Harley Davidson overtook us. You only see things like that in the U.S.! The rain and sun played with us, alternating as we went. We left the desert behind, and the vegetation returned. The road crossed some beautiful Badlands for a few kilometers before opening up into an endless plain. Eventually, we arrived in Tombstone after a series of hills.

Tombstone An old mining town (silver mines), Tombstone is famous for the true story of the Earp brothers and Doc Holliday and their involvement in the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral on October 26, 1881. Once a declining mining town, it’s now a tourist spot. We enjoyed strolling through its dusty streets, car-free, surrounded by the Wild West scenery that shaped our childhood. Saloons, brothels, stagecoaches, sheriffs, reenacted shootouts, silver mines, and women in period costumes—everything is designed to take you back in time, and it’s easy to imagine yourself there.

Many places are reconstructed, and some historic buildings have been turned into shops, but others, like the Big Nose Kate Saloon and the incredible Bird Cage Theater with its authentic period artifacts, are fascinating. The history that made this town famous is everywhere, much to our delight.

We wanted to see the real reenactment of the Earp brothers’ gunfight, but we went to the wrong place. We saw a humorous shootout (the one near the mine), but it was a bit lost on us since our school-level English didn’t let us catch all the nuances—though the audience was laughing a lot. For those who want to see the real reenactment, it takes place under the red OK CORRAL sign, and tickets are sold at the Tombstone Historama. We had planned to visit Boothill Cemetery and read the humorous epitaphs on the tombstones, but the 8 dollars per person entry fee made us turn around quickly.

After this fun visit, we headed to the charming little town of Bisbee for our last night in Arizona on this road trip. Before dinner at the guesthouse, we took a walk in our hosts’ beautiful garden (where there’s a hilariously recreated cowboy cemetery for Halloween). Tomorrow, we’re sleeping in New Mexico. I’ll probably dream of Stetsons, cowboys, Colts, stagecoaches, and saloons tonight.

Day 6 Bisbee to Lordsburg Hampton Inn Lordsburg129 €. Fridge, breakfast, MO

Big leg of 345 km today. I hesitated to take the detour via Chiricahua National Monument because it added 100 km (I’d even planned an alternate route in case of rain), but no regrets about going—this park is absolutely stunning.

Bisbee sits at over 1,600 m elevation, and when we left town at 8 a.m., it was 17°C. Since I’m always freezing, I broke out the long sleeves and a sweatshirt. First stop for a photo at the Lavender Pit, just a few km from the lodge. This open-pit copper mine (1879–1974) is super photogenic thanks to the colors of the different minerals. You can check it out from observation platforms, and it’s right on the way to our next stop. Practically glued to the mine is the ghost town of Lowell, preserved just as it was in the 1950s. Erie Street, its main drag, is a riot of color. It’s lined with vintage cars, vans, and buses in great condition, parked there like they’re waiting for their drivers to come back.

The street feels frozen in time, with signs, buildings, and shops from the mid-20th century in excellent condition.





There’s even a vintage gas station.

A guaranteed trip down memory lane—so nostalgic!

Day 6 (continued) Bisbee - Lordsburg After hanging around Lowell for a bit, we head toward Chiricahua National Park. Goodbye desert!!! The area looks poor, but we’re driving through pretty green hills that are gently rolling and wooded. After these lovely valleys, we’re back in the plains. The temperature has climbed to 24°C. No crops in sight, but the huge silos, water wells, and sprinklers we see suggest this is farmland. The road stretches on, endless and straight, soon lined with cornfields, a few herds of cows, and horses. It’s really dry. It’s 26°C. Soon, the GPS tells us to leave AZ181 and head toward the mountains, and suddenly, everything changes. It’s all green—the meadows, the hills, the roadsides. It’s an emerald festival all the way to the park entrance. Chiricahua National Monument As I mentioned, I’d long hesitated to include it in our road trip because of the detour, which added 100 km to an already long day. But the reviews and photos from those who’d visited luckily changed my mind. What a lovely discovery this park is—so different from everything we’d seen so far on our U.S. travels. Just after passing the park entrance, two little deer cross in front of the car. This park, on the land of the Chiricahua Indians, is a gem. The first rocky spires—the Organs Pipe Rock formations—appear even before the entrance. After the visitor center, as soon as we start the 12 km of the Scenic Drive, it’s one stunning pinnacle after another—each more beautiful and impressive than the last, whether for their shape or their balancing act. Rain and erosion of these volcanic rocks have created this army of stone pillars reaching toward the sky. We stop at the different viewpoints: Organ Pipe, See Captain Rock, China Boy Rock. At every stop, we’re blown away by these beautiful red rock formations in the grassy hills. The nose isn’t left out—we’re among the pines, and it smells wonderful, like resin. The rock formations disappear as the scenic road climbs up the mountainside toward Massai Point. On the left, a deep, beautiful canyon. 22°C, 21°C, 20°C— the higher we go, the more the thermometer drops. We do the Massai Point Nature Trail loop (easy and short, 800 m, 30 minutes clockwise) with its viewpoint offering a stunning panorama of the armies of stone pillars covering everything, from the steep peaks to the canyon floors.

Then, after getting back in the car, we head toward Echo Canyon to walk quietly to the caves right in the heart of the formations (1 km round trip, 30 minutes). The trail winds between formations of all colors and shapes until we reach the caves. We stroll through the piles of rocks with great pleasure. Once again, I had fun with the shapes of the rocks. It’s sublime. Well, we don’t want to leave, but we have to head back! Lordsburg is still almost 150 km away, and on top of that, we’ll have to set our watches forward an hour when we reach New Mexico. We admire two more little deer before leaving the park without having seen any coatis, though they’re present in Chiricahua. Then we retrace our steps before taking that endless road that roller-coasters through the hills. We pass by Cochise Lake, completely dried up. We make a quick stop at Dwayne’s Fresh Jerky, a gas station where you can buy really good flavored pistachios at unbeatable prices. Finally, Lordsburg comes into view. We’re hungry, so hungry!!! Lunch feels like ages ago. We want to find a Mexican restaurant—we *are* in New Mexico, after all. We ask the receptionist. It’s Sunday, and Lordsburg has just over 2,200 souls. What a disaster!!! Everything’s closed except for one fast-food place!!! And not just any fast-food place!!! You guessed it!!! With six road trips in the U.S., this is the first time we’ve eaten at McDonald’s. It was either that or go to bed with our stomachs growling—the choice was easy!!! What a magnificent day. Once again, this country has treated us to its sublime landscapes.

Hey everyone,

Thanks so much for this super interesting and lively trip report!

You’ve still got amazing energy and willpower at your age... so there’s hope for me too!

Keep it up! Jean from the Nooord.

Good evening Papj59 It’s so nice to see the usernames I’ve known since our first RT in 2017. It’s true we’re in good shape. We’re trying to make the most of it before old age hits us like the pox on the lower clergy. Today we’re doing well, but tomorrow everything could collapse. Thanks for your post anyway—it’s always nice to read comments. Have a good evening. Marcalamar 🙂

Yep! Well, I can't wait to hear the rest since we've got some "shared spots" in NM or elsewhere... (like my 2011 blog, for example). Best regards, Jean

Your blog is awesome!!! 🙂 You must’ve spent a ton of time on it. I thought I was timing each step too much, but I’m really just a lightweight compared to the details in your daily prep! Have a great day! Marcalamar 🙂

Day 7 Lordsburg - Las Cruces Comfort Inn & Suites Las Cruces Mesilla131 euros for this little hotel with breakfast, pool, and spa

Finally, a decent night—woke up at 6:30 a.m. Yes!!! With the time change the day before, we’re done with 4 a.m. wake-ups. Left at 8:55 a.m. The day won’t be too intense; there are fewer miles and not much along the way, since these towns are just bedroom communities to break up the long stretches. We pass through a very poor neighborhood, right by the railroad tracks—dozens of dilapidated houses and closed shops and stores. Once in Las Cruces, since I’ve never seen a rodeo, we check out the Southern New Mexico State Fair & Rodeo and take a peek at the empty arena and everything around it. We’ve never spotted a Roadrunner either (Beep Beep, Wile E. Coyote’s buddy for those who didn’t recognize him). This one is life-sized (6 meters) and really well done. You can find it at a rest area with a great view of the valley and mountains, and it’s made from recycled objects (shoes, phones, bike parts...)

It’s to raise awareness about overconsumption and recycling. I’ll share this one with you since I can’t offer you a real one. A very interesting visit to the New Mexico Farm & Ranch Museum. We discover, among other things, the agricultural history of New Mexico through artworks, photos, and reconstructions of how the first inhabitants lived before and after the arrival of colonizers. Outside, there’s an exhibit of old farming equipment and a small farm with a few animals. It’s really comprehensive and should appeal to those with kids—and even to others. There’s even a historic bridge. We’ll have our picnic in the shade of the pistachio trees. After that, we head to Stahmann’s pecan farm to stock up on pistachios while driving past pistachio orchards. Unfortunately, the factory has been closed to sales for two or three years. We cross the Rio Grande, which we find almost dry.

Quick photo of the World’s Largest Chile Pepper. After that, we head to the hotel to drop off our luggage. I wonder how people travel without checked baggage. Between the suitcases, backpacks, grocery bags, cooler, and camera gear, we’re like real gypsies. Don’t worry, everything fits into two suitcases and two backpacks for the flight.

Old Mesilla Village This will be our first encounter with the charming plazas of New Mexico towns—it’s a discovery for us: Mesilla Plaza, the courthouse where Billy the Kid was tried, the Fountain Theatre, and the majestic Basilica of San Albino de Mesilla, built from adobe (bricks made of clay mixed with water and straw, sun-dried).

Basilica of San Albino de Mesilla, which was unfortunately closed, so we couldn’t visit inside. Plus, the weather is nice—it’s really pleasant. Excellent meal at La Posta (a stagecoach relay turned restaurant) in a stunning setting for a more than reasonable price (81 dollars for two huge Mexican plates and two margaritas), and way better than our McDonald’s from yesterday. Tomorrow, we’re off to Alamogordo and White Sands Dune.

Day 8, September 16 – Las Cruces to Alamogordo Surestay Plus Near White Sands National Park91 € with breakfast, free Wi-Fi, fridge, and pool (closed and very dirty on the day of our stay)

We left at 8:15 AM with 23 °C. Quick photo stop at the Space Mural Museum. I missed the San Augustin Pass and the short walk to the viewpoint where I wanted to photograph the Organ Mountains, so I took the shot while driving. - Let’s stay positive—this means we’ll arrive earlier at White Sands. Only a few kilometers left when we hit a carport with a red light where a line of cars make a brief stop. It’s the US Border Patrol checkpoint. Our turn comes. The officer asks if we have a visa. We tell him we have an ESTA. He wants to see it. Oh no, it’s in the suitcase. He sends us to the side to look for it. The trunk is big, but the suitcase is easily accessible. Once we have it and approach to show him, he yells from a distance, "Bonjour " and waves us on. Border Patrol checks are frequent here since the Mexican border isn’t far, so it’s wise to keep everything within reach.

The first small dunes appear in the distance, covered in plants. Stop at the visitor center. Because of the heat, the ranger advises against the Alkali Flats Trail I’d planned. It’s still early, the hike only takes 3 hours for 8 km, we have plenty of water, and it’s only 22 °C. I make sure not to tell DD—otherwise, the cautious guy he is wouldn’t want to go. No one at the booth. We start the 13 km that will take us to the end of the road and the trailhead. After a few paved kilometers, we’re on a sandy road just as hard and smooth. The height of the sand cleared by road maintenance is impressive. It really feels like a snowfield.

As we go, the vegetation becomes sparser on the dunes visible from the road. It’ll be nearly nonexistent during the trail. Only a few plants that can survive in these harsh conditions manage to stay alive in this white gypsum desert, shaped by water and wind for hundreds of thousands of years.

We start walking, planning to turn back if it gets too tough. I’d read that we should take it clockwise. Around halfway, we reach the dried-up lake in an off-limits area. Good thing we went this way—the last part has a series of high dunes we tackle on the descent, which would’ve been much harder going uphill.

The first steps are easy—a thin hard crust keeps our feet from sinking into the sand. Plus, I’m wearing hiking sandals, so the sand can escape. We move at a good pace; it’s still easy. Since there’s no wind, the red stakes are highly visible, and we follow this safety line. From the top of each dune, it’s like a treasure hunt in the sparkling sand, searching for the next stake to show us the way, alternating between small climbs and descents with flat sections in between.

It’s so much fun. Everything around us is white no matter where you look, with the occasional little plant peeking out. In the distance, the mountains, that intense blue sky, and a few clouds. We admire the wind’s work, creating little sand sculptures here and there. It’s breathtaking.

Less than two hours after starting, we’re back at the parking lot, feeling great except for a few sunburns. Our heads are full of the wonders we’ve seen—so happy we did it. An amazing hike in an amazing country!!! We settle in for our picnic near the Scenic Drive (shaded tables). We see visitors sledding, others playing pétanque!!!

It’s too early to check into the hotel. We head to McGinnis PistachioLand to buy pistachios (and taste all the varieties!!!!) and devour a huge pistachio ice cream. Around 5 PM, rain and thunder—luckily, we’re safe in the hotel. We’ve been lucky with the weather. We don’t feel like going out. We stay in the room, content with tea and cake after the ice cream we had earlier in the afternoon. Tomorrow, we’ll see if the little green men are still in Roswell.

A quick note about the Alkali Flats Trail: This hike is rated difficult, and several people have lost their lives in this white desert. It seemed easy to us because we’re used to long-distance hiking, we were well-equipped (5 liters of water, dried fruit, cereal bars, hats, sunglasses), there was no wind (sometimes the stakes get buried), we started relatively early, and it was only 23 °C. In short, ideal conditions. Stay safe!

Thanks for this fun and engaging travel journal—it’s always interesting to see the choices people make about what to visit instead of something else when they’re there!

Good evening Dennis🙂 That's what's so cool about travel journals. All our research becomes concrete, and we can really choose visits based on our interests. For us, for example, we prefer nature and smaller towns over larger ones, which will delight some travelers with their museums and architecture. Have a good evening, Marcalamar 🙂

Day 9: September 17 – Alamogordo to Roswell La Quinta by Wyndham Roswell 101 euros including breakfast, microwave, fridge, and pool.

We left at 8:15 AM with 19°C. Made a quick stop in Ruidoso Downs to pick up some info on the Billy the Kid Scenic Byway at the visitor center. Unfortunately, it didn’t open until 10 AM. Oh well, we’ll manage without it. We slowly gained altitude as the road climbed through pine trees. We passed through the village of Ruidoso at 2,100 meters. It’s pretty and very touristy. Nestled high in the mountains and surrounded by beautiful forests, this cute little town sprawls with cabins, chalets, restaurants, and shops over several kilometers. But it was 10:30 AM, and almost everything was still closed. After the pass, the landscape changed on the way down—we left the mountains behind for ranches, horses, and meadows. The Billy the Kid Scenic Byway was nice. It was really pleasant driving through all those fields of yellow flowers. Fort Stanton Cemetery Each state has cemeteries to honor military personnel who fell in various conflicts. This one, located in the middle of nowhere, mainly holds sailors from the merchant marine who were treated at Fort Stanton nearby. These cemeteries are always impressive with their perfectly aligned and orderly gravestones. Fort Stanton It’s just a little farther. Established to protect settlers from Apache attacks, this military post is named after a captain killed by Native Americans. Unfortunately, it was Wednesday, and that was its day off. We were still allowed to drive in to take a few photos of the many whitewashed buildings, some dating back to 1855 (soldiers’ and officers’ quarters, hospital, stables, and a cute little chapel...).

Kit Carson was also its commander during the American Civil War. It later served as a hospital for merchant marine tuberculosis patients and then as an internment camp during World War II (Japanese, German prisoners, Japanese-American families). All these white buildings in the greenery are lovely, and these names we’ve known since childhood bring back great memories.

Lincoln We passed through this timeless little village. It was at the center of a conflict between outlaws and ranchers in the area from 1878 to 1881. The Old Lincoln County Courthouse (the courthouse) – once again, we stumbled upon a closed museum. So, we settled for photographing the few historic buildings that were already there when Mac Garret was chasing Billy the Kid and other bandits roaming the town (defense tower, old houses, San Juan church). El Torreon (1850) to protect the town from Apache raids. Mission San Juan Church

To get to Roswell, we drove through a series of tiny towns in the hills and then a vast desert plain after Riverside. Roswell We chose it as a stopover before heading back up to Tucumcari and the treasures of the Mother Road. Roswell UFO Museum We couldn’t stop without checking out the 1947 incident, and what better place than this museum to shed light on the timeline of events? Here’s what we learned: In 1945, the U.S. conducted its first nuclear weapon test. The explosion was so powerful that members of an advanced extraterrestrial civilization decided to investigate what was happening on the planet that had launched this bomb. The journey took two years. On their way to the site, the spacecraft and its occupants crashed near Roswell!!! You know the rest... I really like this explanation!!! Weather balloon or spacecraft??? Everyone can choose their side 🤔🤔🤔 I, as a curious visitor, enjoyed wandering through this little museum. Thanks to the scenes, mannequins, and photos, even with my terrible English, I was able to dive back into this story that’s part of the myths that have inspired so many movies and novels.

We didn’t linger too long in the downtown area, where everything reminds you of its connection to extraterrestrials. Still, we took a little stroll before heading back to our hotel. A bit of rest will be welcome for our old bones. I had planned some short walks at the Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge, but I felt sorry for my driver—we’d already covered nearly 300 km. Dinner was very good for 75 dollars (two huge and excellent ribs with fries and sweet potato fries, plus a Coke and a beer) at Cattle Baron Steak and Seafood. Tomorrow, a change of scenery!!! On the road to Tucumcari and the remnants of Route 66.

Hi Martine, My username won’t mean much to you—I like reading the different travel journals "in silence" 🙂 I really enjoy reading yours; I’ve already followed your other journals. My experience in the USA is limited to a trip 3 years ago to California with my Californian English teacher and our group. Her sister lives in Sacramento, and we spent 2 weeks fully immersed in American culture with all our new friends now over there. It helped make up a little for our canceled trip in 2020. I’m retiring next year and really hope to make up for lost time 😉

Looking forward to the rest! Aline

Hey Aline! 🙂 Your username doesn’t sound unfamiliar. We exchanged a few PMs back in 2019. So cool if you’re retiring soon!! You’ll have all the time in the world (unless other much more enjoyable activities than work take up too much of it) 😏 to plan your trips. Anyway, thanks for stopping by! Marcalamar 🙂