We’re back from our September 2025 road trip, this time to explore Arizona and New Mexico, and it’s time for me to start my travel journal—especially since everything’s already booked for another trip in September 2026 (to California), and I need to get started on the planning.
I was a little worried this new visit to Uncle Sam’s country might not be as "wow" as the others, but we still discovered some incredible places.
For those who don’t know us, we’re a couple in our seventies who speak very little English, but that didn’t stop us from fully enjoying our stay.
For this 6th road trip in the U.S., we spent 21 nights there, drove 4,160 km by car, and walked nearly 160 km in a loop starting from Phoenix.
We’d been to Arizona before (but not this side) and never to New Mexico. This whole road trip was a huge discovery for us.
In the prices mentioned (some in euros, others in dollars), bank fees and exchange charges are included. The flights, car rental, and parking were all paid for in December 2024 when we booked.
We’d downloaded the MPC (Mobile Passport Control) app, but there wasn’t a dedicated line at Phoenix Airport. Still, we got through quickly with friendly, smiling agents.
I don’t drive at all (I hate it), so the stops were chosen based on activities but also, for some, to limit daily mileage for the sole driver. The kilometers listed in the itinerary are the daily distances.
We traveled from September 9th to 22nd, unfortunately once again without our dear friends Mimi and Maumau.
The itinerary
Day 1: Flight Marseille-Paris-Phoenix, then Gold Canyon (133 km) Day 2: Tucson (271 km) Lost Dutchman State Park Day 3: Tucson (155 km) Day 4: Tucson (34 km) Day 5: Bisbee (182 km) Day 6: Lordsburg (345 km) Day 7: Las Cruces (253 km) Day 8: Alamogordo (162 km) Day 9: Roswell (264 km) Day 10: Tucumcari (369 km) Day 11: Las Vegas (281 km) – the one in New Mexico Day 12: Taos (213 km) Day 13: Santa Fe (224 km) Day 14: Albuquerque (123 km) Day 15: Gallup (246 km) Day 16: Holbrook (224 km) Day 17: Flagstaff (179 km) Day 18: Sedona (118 km) Day 19: Sedona (48 km) Day 20: Sedona (41 km) Day 21: Phoenix (256 km) Day 22: Phoenix Airport (35 km)
📊 **Budget**: A little over 7,500 € for both of us, all included. The exchange rate was in our favor (1.17 dollars to 1 €). 📊 **Flights**: Marseille-Paris Charles de Gaulle-Phoenix: 1,787 € for two, with one checked bag each (Air France) 📊 **ESTA**: $42 📊 **America the Beautiful Pass**: $80 📊 **Parking**: 134 € (super eco at Marseille) 📊 **Car rental (Hertz)**: 865 €. Since there were no SUVs left in the reserved category (Nissan Rogue), we got an upgrade (4x4 Ford Explorer). We booked through Air France (15% discount). We’d originally reserved it in December for 1,140 €, but since prices dropped in March, we canceled and rebooked for 865 €. Hertz offers a free Hertz Gold Plus Rewards program, which gives you priority counter service when picking up the car. 📊 **Accommodation**: 2,400 € We stayed in hotels and motels of varying standards (from 60 to 203 € per night, depending on the city), all booked through Booking.com or Hotels.com. Out of 21 nights, only two didn’t include breakfast in the price. Booking.com sometimes offers slightly cheaper rates if you book by phone using the mobile app, and our Genius 3 status on the site also got us some preferential rates. 📊 **Supplementary insurance**: AVA 200 € for medical care if needed 📊 **Cash**: $2,078. We left with 1,000 € exchanged before departure and made two withdrawals of $500. This cash covered: - Evening restaurants and tips - Midday picnics - Gas: $298 for 4,160 km - Museum and private park entries (per person): - Lost Dutchman: $10 - Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum: $28 - Bird Cage Theater: $16 - Tombstone Shootout: $8 - New Mexico Farm & Ranch Museum: $12 - Roswell International UFO Museum: $5 - Billy the Kid Museum: $7 - Rancho de Taos: $22 - West Fork Oak Creek Trail entry: $15 We got a few discounts thanks to our senior age (+65). - Souvenirs and little treats
Like on our previous road trips, we didn’t rent a GPS. We got around using offline GPS apps Here WeGo and Organic Maps, with maps of the states we visited downloaded before we left (on our phones).
❤️❤️❤️ **Highlights** (there are so many!) 📍 Goldfield Ghost Town (even if it’s a reconstruction) 📍 The standing army of Saguaro cacti at Saguaro National Park West 📍 Diving into the cowboy universe of Tombstone 📍 The welcome from Rick and Henry at our guesthouse in Bisbee (Garden at Mile High Ranch) 📍 The tangled rocks of Chiricahua National Monument 📍 The flavored pistachios from Dwayne’s Fresh Jerky and Mac Ginnis Pistachioland 📍 Restaurants: La Posta (Las Cruces), Diner 66 (Albuquerque), and the Haunted Hamburger (Jerome) 📍 The old plazas of New Mexico 📍 The solitude and beauty of the white dunes at White Sands National Park 📍 Stepping back in time at the Billy the Kid Museum (Fort Stanton) 📍 Sections of historic Route 66 and the old motels of Tucumcari, especially at night when all the neon lights are on 📍 Taos Pueblo and diving into Native American culture 📍 After the Rio Grande Bridge, the descent via NM 567 to the very bottom of the Rio Grande Gorge, then the road along the riverbanks to Taos 📍 The tranquility of the Chimayo Sanctuary 📍 Discovering the ingenious native dwellings at Bandelier National Monument and Walnut Canyon National Park 📍 The small towns along the Turquoise Trail 📍 The red rocks of Red Rock Park and the Painted Desert 📍 The extraordinary colors of the petrified trees at Petrified Forest National Park 📍 Sedona, its red rocks, and the reward of the viewpoints at the end of hikes (Devil’s Bridge, The Subway, and West Fork Oak Creek) 📍 The immersion in Mexico when visiting Tlaquepaque 📍 The almost-ghost town of Jerome and its terraced streets 📍 The incredible kindness of Americans, always ready to help and up for a chat ❤️
☹️☹️☹️ **Flops** (there are very few) 📍 Several museums and churches being closed, so we couldn’t visit them 📍 Some museums and visitor centers opening late (10 AM) and closing early (4 PM) 📍 A 64 € phone roaming charge because we got near the Mexican border and picked up their cell tower 📍 The outrageous price ($5.99) for a gallon of gas at the Shell near Phoenix Airport
I hope this helps! Anyway, thanks for reading my long post. Don’t hesitate to reach out, even via PM, if you see I haven’t replied and you’d like more details. Have a great evening, everyone! [:)]
We continued our cowboy immersion by having dinner at the saloon, right in front of the mountain, at the Mammoth Steak House (a fun way to celebrate our 47th wedding anniversary), but it was just okay for the price.
In the distance, the mountains and cacti stood out as silhouettes against beautiful color gradients as everything slowly darkened.
A little gift upon arriving at the hotel: a cute coyote calmly crossed in front of us (I’ll spare you the blurry photo I took).
Well, it’s been 30 hours since I last slept—time to hit the hay!
We chose a loop of just under 6 km that combines three trail sections (Jacob’s Crosscut, Prospector’s Trail, and descent via Treasure Trail).
The beginning is flat, among the cacti—some had tiny flowers.
Out of the three, only one climbs (over 1 km). It’s easier counterclockwise (fewer uphill sections). We really enjoyed this short hike, which gave us a great view of the desert. By the time we finished, after an hour and a half, it was already 38°C, and it didn’t seem like it was going to cool down.
We left Gold Canyon, with its pretty houses and gardens full of cacti.
This little stop is nice for those who don’t want to stay in Phoenix.
The road to Tucson is surrounded by desert fields. Everything is dry, and it feels like the plants are suffering (black trunks, drooping leaves) for kilometers.
Saint Anthony Greek Orthodox Monastery
This was our second stop.
It was built 30 years ago in the Sonoran Desert after six monks arrived with the goal of establishing a monastery. The first impression is striking—a beautiful old white monastery on a hill, an oasis of greenery in the middle of the desert: flowers everywhere, singing fountains,
citrus orchards, olive trees, and beautiful chapels filled with precious objects.
The buildings and religious objects inside are stunning, but it felt like too much wealth for me. All that gold isn’t cool when so many people are in need. Plus, we had to dress according to their strict rules (hair covered, closed-toe shoes and socks, long skirt, long-sleeved shirt for DD and me). If we had to do it again, I’m not sure I’d stop. On top of that, while the nuns were friendly, the monks seemed tense and unsmiling.
Quick stop at the Tom Mix Memorial. We had our picnic in this rest area, which commemorates the spot where Western actor Tom Mix died in a car accident in 1940, complete with a lovely statue of his horse.
As we got closer to Tucson, the road ran alongside tall mountains with jagged peaks. It’s all so pretty...
And to finish off this otherwise great day, a *massive* flop—you need one every now and then to keep things interesting. We dropped off our bags at the hotel and headed out at 3:40 p.m. as planned to Saguaro National Park’s east side, only to find out the visitor center—where we were supposed to buy our America the Beautiful Pass—was already closed by 4:45 p.m. 🤦♀️ And there was no one in the booth. There *was* an automatic machine, but my English is so bad I wouldn’t dare try it—I’m pretty sure it could swallow my credit card after a wrong move. So, 70 km round trip from our hotel, and we had to turn back without even setting a tire in the park! With all that, it made for a day of over 270 km. Poor DD, who’s the only one driving. Luckily, the hotel’s jacuzzi and pool were there to console us. Tomorrow promises another great day of exploring.
Great meal for $78 at The Parish: 1 burger, 1 seafood pasta dish, and 2 beers. It was really good, filling, and just 700 m from the hotel
With the morning light, it’s truly stunning. This variety of tree-like cactus, called Saguaro, is the emblem of the Sonoran Desert in Arizona and northern Mexico. They can grow up to 15 meters tall. Their growth is very slow (at 25 years old, they’re only about 30 cm tall), and they can live for 200 years. Their unique feature is branching out and raising their arms toward the sky. Each one is different, which is a delight for us.
Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum
Before diving into the national park, we make a quick stop at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum—a mix of zoo and botanical garden—to get in the mood. We stroll along paved trails, stopping to admire the plants and animals (bears, mountain lions, squirrels, beavers, wolves, foxes, javelinas...) found in this part of the U.S. (mountains, prairies, cactus gardens). There’s even a vivarium, a terrarium, and an aviary.
We spend a little over two hours there.
Luckily, the spines got stuck in the sole of his shoe. A few centimeters higher, and they would’ve gone through the fabric and into his foot. We had a good laugh trying to remove it—the cholla kept jumping from one shoe to the other! After seeing how hard it was to pull out, we realized he was lucky. After that incident, the tweezers never left the backpack. It was interesting for us, but we still wondered about the quality of life for the animals in the enclosures.
Saguaro National Park West
It’s just a few kilometers from the museum.
We stop by the visitor center to buy the America the Beautiful pass, then start our visit by taking the Scenic Bajada Loop Drive—a 15-kilometer easy trail winding through a stunning landscape of dry washes and hills, filled with cacti of all shapes.
We couldn’t find the start of the first hike we’d planned (Valley View Overlook Trail), so we turned back after wandering for a while in a wash under scorching heat (34°C/93°F).
We discovered that the skeletons of these giants are made of very hard wood, which can be used for construction (if you look closely in the middle of the photo, you can see a lizard hiding).
We stopped for a picnic at Signal Hill Petroglyphs—a very easy and fun spot—and discovered the petroglyphs, which are easily accessible.
You can see the famous cholla, or "jumping cactus," responsible for very painful stings.
During the drive, the big gray cloud that had muted the colors at the Gate Park Scenic Lookout turned into dark clouds on the horizon. We stop at the visitor center to check the weather for the next day since we planned to hike in Sabino Canyon. We start the beautiful Cactus Forest Loop Drive clockwise. Many prefer the west side of the park. Personally, I loved this tiny road winding through the cacti, with the mountains in the background, offering us one stunning viewpoint after another.
At one of the viewpoints, a photo taken in 1935 at this very spot shows us how much more abundant saguaros were back then, even if they seem everywhere now.
Now
We’re lucky to escape the brewing storm, but we still decide to cancel the hikes since we can hear thunder rumbling in the distance. The lightning show is beautiful but far from reassuring.
We didn’t visit the inside of the church because it wasn’t open yet. However, we noticed the poor living conditions around the Indian reservations, similar to what we’d seen on previous road trips.
Many places are reconstructed, and some historic buildings have been turned into shops, but others, like the Big Nose Kate Saloon
and the incredible Bird Cage Theater with its authentic period artifacts, are fascinating. The history that made this town famous is everywhere, much to our delight.
We wanted to see the real reenactment of the Earp brothers’ gunfight, but we went to the wrong place. We saw a humorous shootout (the one near the mine), but it was a bit lost on us since our school-level English didn’t let us catch all the nuances—though the audience was laughing a lot.
For those who want to see the real reenactment, it takes place under the red OK CORRAL sign, and tickets are sold at the Tombstone Historama.
We had planned to visit Boothill Cemetery and read the humorous epitaphs on the tombstones, but the 8 dollars per person entry fee made us turn around quickly.
Before dinner at the guesthouse, we took a walk in our hosts’ beautiful garden (where there’s a hilariously recreated cowboy cemetery for Halloween).
Tomorrow, we’re sleeping in New Mexico. I’ll probably dream of Stetsons, cowboys, Colts, stagecoaches, and saloons tonight.
Practically glued to the mine is the ghost town of Lowell, preserved just as it was in the 1950s.
Erie Street, its main drag, is a riot of color. It’s lined with vintage cars, vans, and buses in great condition, parked there like they’re waiting for their drivers to come back.
The street feels frozen in time, with signs, buildings, and shops from the mid-20th century in excellent condition.
There’s even a vintage gas station.
A guaranteed trip down memory lane—so nostalgic!
It’s an emerald festival all the way to the park entrance.
Chiricahua National Monument
As I mentioned, I’d long hesitated to include it in our road trip because of the detour, which added 100 km to an already long day. But the reviews and photos from those who’d visited luckily changed my mind.
What a lovely discovery this park is—so different from everything we’d seen so far on our U.S. travels.
Just after passing the park entrance, two little deer cross in front of the car.
This park, on the land of the Chiricahua Indians, is a gem. The first rocky spires—the Organs Pipe Rock formations—appear even before the entrance.
After the visitor center, as soon as we start the 12 km of the Scenic Drive, it’s one stunning pinnacle after another—each more beautiful and impressive than the last, whether for their shape or their balancing act. Rain and erosion of these volcanic rocks have created this army of stone pillars reaching toward the sky. We stop at the different viewpoints: Organ Pipe, See Captain Rock, China Boy Rock.
At every stop, we’re blown away by these beautiful red rock formations in the grassy hills.
The nose isn’t left out—we’re among the pines, and it smells wonderful, like resin. The rock formations disappear as the scenic road climbs up the mountainside toward Massai Point. On the left, a deep, beautiful canyon. 22°C, 21°C, 20°C— the higher we go, the more the thermometer drops. We do the Massai Point Nature Trail loop (easy and short, 800 m, 30 minutes clockwise) with its viewpoint offering a stunning panorama of the armies of stone pillars covering everything, from the steep peaks to the canyon floors.
Then, after getting back in the car, we head toward Echo Canyon to walk quietly to the caves right in the heart of the formations (1 km round trip, 30 minutes).
The trail winds between formations of all colors and shapes until we reach the caves.
We stroll through the piles of rocks with great pleasure.
Once again, I had fun with the shapes of the rocks. It’s sublime.
Well, we don’t want to leave, but we have to head back!
Lordsburg is still almost 150 km away, and on top of that, we’ll have to set our watches forward an hour when we reach New Mexico.
We admire two more little deer before leaving the park without having seen any coatis, though they’re present in Chiricahua. Then we retrace our steps before taking that endless road that roller-coasters through the hills. We pass by Cochise Lake, completely dried up. We make a quick stop at Dwayne’s Fresh Jerky, a gas station where you can buy really good flavored pistachios at unbeatable prices. Finally, Lordsburg comes into view.
We’re hungry, so hungry!!! Lunch feels like ages ago. We want to find a Mexican restaurant—we *are* in New Mexico, after all. We ask the receptionist. It’s Sunday, and Lordsburg has just over 2,200 souls. What a disaster!!! Everything’s closed except for one fast-food place!!! And not just any fast-food place!!! You guessed it!!! With six road trips in the U.S., this is the first time we’ve eaten at McDonald’s. It was either that or go to bed with our stomachs growling—the choice was easy!!!
What a magnificent day. Once again, this country has treated us to its sublime landscapes.
It’s to raise awareness about overconsumption and recycling. I’ll share this one with you since I can’t offer you a real one.
A very interesting visit to the New Mexico Farm & Ranch Museum. We discover, among other things, the agricultural history of New Mexico through artworks, photos, and reconstructions of how the first inhabitants lived before and after the arrival of colonizers. Outside, there’s an exhibit of old farming equipment and a small farm with a few animals. It’s really comprehensive and should appeal to those with kids—and even to others. There’s even a historic bridge. We’ll have our picnic in the shade of the pistachio trees.
After that, we head to Stahmann’s pecan farm to stock up on pistachios while driving past pistachio orchards. Unfortunately, the factory has been closed to sales for two or three years.
We cross the Rio Grande, which we find almost dry.
Quick photo of the World’s Largest Chile Pepper.
After that, we head to the hotel to drop off our luggage. I wonder how people travel without checked baggage. Between the suitcases, backpacks, grocery bags, cooler, and camera gear, we’re like real gypsies. Don’t worry, everything fits into two suitcases and two backpacks for the flight.
Basilica of San Albino de Mesilla, which was unfortunately closed, so we couldn’t visit inside.
Plus, the weather is nice—it’s really pleasant.
Excellent meal at La Posta (a stagecoach relay turned restaurant) in a stunning setting for a more than reasonable price (81 dollars for two huge Mexican plates and two margaritas), and way better than our McDonald’s from yesterday.
Tomorrow, we’re off to Alamogordo and White Sands Dune.
- Let’s stay positive—this means we’ll arrive earlier at White Sands. Only a few kilometers left when we hit a carport with a red light where a line of cars make a brief stop. It’s the US Border Patrol checkpoint. Our turn comes. The officer asks if we have a visa. We tell him we have an ESTA. He wants to see it. Oh no, it’s in the suitcase. He sends us to the side to look for it. The trunk is big, but the suitcase is easily accessible. Once we have it and approach to show him, he yells from a distance, "Bonjour " and waves us on. Border Patrol checks are frequent here since the Mexican border isn’t far, so it’s wise to keep everything within reach.
We move at a good pace; it’s still easy. Since there’s no wind, the red stakes are highly visible, and we follow this safety line.
From the top of each dune, it’s like a treasure hunt in the sparkling sand, searching for the next stake to show us the way, alternating between small climbs and descents with flat sections in between.
It’s so much fun. Everything around us is white no matter where you look, with the occasional little plant peeking out. In the distance, the mountains, that intense blue sky, and a few clouds.
We admire the wind’s work, creating little sand sculptures here and there. It’s breathtaking.
Around 5 PM, rain and thunder—luckily, we’re safe in the hotel. We’ve been lucky with the weather. We don’t feel like going out. We stay in the room, content with tea and cake after the ice cream we had earlier in the afternoon.
Tomorrow, we’ll see if the little green men are still in Roswell.
Kit Carson was also its commander during the American Civil War. It later served as a hospital for merchant marine tuberculosis patients and then as an internment camp during World War II (Japanese, German prisoners, Japanese-American families). All these white buildings in the greenery are lovely, and these names we’ve known since childhood bring back great memories.
So, we settled for photographing the few historic buildings that were already there when Mac Garret was chasing Billy the Kid and other bandits roaming the town (defense tower, old houses, San Juan church).
El Torreon (1850) to protect the town from Apache raids.
Mission San Juan Church
Bosque Redondo Memorial
A little further on is the deeply moving Bosque Redondo Memorial, a place steeped in history where a tragedy unfolded: in 1863, over nearly three years, more than 10,000 Navajos—men, women, and children—as well as hundreds of Mescalero Apaches were forced to march over 500 km across New Mexico to the Bosque Redondo Indian Reservation, where they were interned in horrific physical and psychological conditions in an attempt to reshape their culture. In 1868, the reservation was closed, and a Navajo treaty was signed, creating a sovereign nation and allowing the Native Americans to return to their tribes. Around 1,500 people lost their lives during the march or internment.
This monument honors them. We didn’t visit the museum inside due to lack of time, but even just stopping outside this former reservation, with its life-sized, hyper-realistic statues endlessly walking in circles, is enough to immerse us in the horror of this dark chapter of history.
Blue Hole
A quick stop at Blue Hole in Santa Rosa: it’s a circular cenote-like formation with crystal-clear water, 18 m in diameter, with water at 16°C and 25 m deep. The flow rate of this spring is 11,350 liters of water per minute.
to see the smallest post office. It’s even more run-down and filled with trash than the rest of the town.
What a waste! It’s so sad to see such a big part of the past disappearing.
The Apache Motel is for sale.
Here too, between the fires (especially the one at the Kix, which destroyed the entire interior),
sales, and the deterioration of some, there won’t be many left soon (here’s the Apache Motel’s sign on the ground).
For now, we’re enjoying the moment and loving the view. So many relics from the golden age of the Mother Road packed into such a short distance—it’s amazing!!!
and the motel neon lights flicker on. It’s gorgeous.
What a treat to get to admire all this!!!
Tomorrow, we’re heading to Las Vegas!!! Not the one in Nevada, but the one in New Mexico!!! ;Great meal at Del’s restaurant
Bingo!!! They’ve got one, and here it is, ready to join its sisters on the wall of our house. I initially thought about buying it at the New Mexico Rte 66 Museum, but it’s permanently closed. It’s sad how much is shutting down around here. We eventually find the "Route 66" monument,
and photograph a lovely mural depicting the Mother Road.
But we leave without finding the murals near the County Chamber.
Hats off to you—done in no time at all!!! A final wave and a "have a good day," and we’re back on the road.
The road soon leaves the flat plains and starts climbing. Wedged between a cliff on one side and a mountain with frequent rockfalls on the other, we’re holding on tight!!! A bit more flatland, and we arrive in Las Vegas. It’s too early to check into the hotel.
Montezuma Hot Springs
I’d spotted some hot springs on private property a little farther north. Let’s go! We search for a while—they’re not very well signposted—then we see the entrance sign, half-hidden by vegetation. They’re pretty in their green setting, but wow, for hot springs, these are *hot* springs. I can’t even dip a toe in the first one, but the others are doable. I didn’t come to just stand around—I’m not in pain at all!!!
DD only dips his feet in, but I spend a few delightful minutes chatting with a young couple whose wife speaks good French. As we’re leaving, she offers us some mushrooms. Which ones? Porcini, saffron milk caps, psilocybin... We’ll never knowF915F915 but we politely decline.
Right next to this colorful figure, you can also see "El Campesino," a Spanish peasant symbolizing the Hispanic culture of the region.
Lots of miles again today. We have no desire to leave the room—we’ve got food and a microwave, so we can fill our stomachs!
Tomorrow, we’re heading to Taos—another beautiful day of discovery ahead.
A few lighter patches start appearing. Some species are beginning to turn yellow. Autumn is slowly setting in. I’m thrilled—I loved it last year in Colorado!! We follow a small river at the bottom of a gorge. Another stunning road—we didn’t get bored for a second, it’s so beautiful.
We’re not far from Taos now.
First stop in Talpa to see the adorable little San Juan de Lagos chapel (1828), unfortunately closed.
These adobe buildings are really characteristic of New Mexico.
Nearby is the Jesus Nazareno cemetery, very colorful with its large Christ statue.
In Ranchos de Taos, we’ll find the San Francisco de Asis church, a Catholic mission built in adobe (1772). Unfortunately, we won’t be able to go inside since it’s closed too.
A few Pueblo Indians still live here, while others reside in the nearby tribal reservation.
We discover the adobe ovens, called *hornos*, used to bake frybread, bread, and other foods outside the homes.
The lovely San Geronimo Church (1850).
And we see the Indians working on the house facades since they need to be redone every year.
It’s extremely clean—nothing’s left lying around.
Outside the restricted areas, you can walk around freely as long as you follow certain rules: no photographing the inside of the church or the cemetery, no climbing the ladders or entering homes other than the shops, and no swimming in the stream that divides the village. You can buy Native American crafts here.
For 37 dollars, we had lunch at Aï-Thloo’s Café with two friendly sisters who treated us to a traditional meal (a hearty stuffed tortilla, frybread—which we shared—and two melon lemonades).
We loved the vibe of this meal, eaten at the big table in the sisters’ home. We were joined by an American family with two older teens who tried speaking French, while I struggled with my broken English to chat with our tablemates and our adorable cooks.
We catch sight of the San Geronimo church, located on the north side, and its pretty portal.
The blocks of houses are smaller here, but it’s just as pleasant to stroll around this side.
It’s time to leave. We take a quick look at the cemetery and the primitive chapel without going inside.
Following a friend’s advice from a group, we took the scenic route back to Taos via Pilar.
My hubby hates dirt roads, but what won’t he do for his little wife?
At first, the road is paved and runs along the top of the canyon with its dizzying cliffs, but after a few kilometers, it turns into a steep and narrow track in places—though still drivable.
Hands clenched on the wheel, tense as a bowstring, DD keeps an eye out for every bump in the terrain. I’m loving it! What a great idea to take this route!
We descend leisurely to the bottom of the canyon, where, after crossing the Rio Grande on a small iron bridge, we follow it for several kilometers through stunning scenery.
We pass fishermen, some are kayaking or rafting! What an amazing playground!
We’d planned to go all the way to Embudo to see the Classical Gas Museum and its vintage pieces, but we’d rather head back up to Taos to visit the old center, its buildings, and the Plaza—unfortunately under construction.
The sunset lights up the murals. It’s gorgeous!
We had a great Mexican meal at an unbeatable price in a fun, casual atmosphere at Guadalajara Grill. ($50 for 2 diet colas, 1 beef enchilada, 1 beef fajita, and 3 HUGE churros). What another amazing day! See you tomorrow!
Everywhere, sculptures and paintings remind you that this land is also home to Native Americans, who considered this place sacred long before the Spanish arrived.
We wandered from chapel to chapel—all the buildings are made of adobe, but inside, everything is colorful in a naive style.
Bandelier National Monument
After this peaceful interlude, we headed to Bandelier National Monument, another gem of this country. We really enjoyed visiting Mesa Verde and its ladders, so we were excited to do it again. We planned to do the Main Loop Trail and then continue on the Alcove Trail, but unfortunately, the latter was closed. So, we settled for the two-kilometer classic loop. We started in the middle of grass and flowers, passing the ruins of a 14th-century pueblo with its great kiva.
We approached the cliff and continued climbing
to discover the cliff dwellings via steps carved into the rock and ladders.
It wasn’t hard to imagine the tough life of the first inhabitants, who stayed here for two centuries before settling in the plains. You can even see petroglyphs carved into the cliff.
The easy, short walk through the ruins and cliff dwellings—some of which you can enter—was very enjoyable. The return to the car was shaded by the tall trees of the forest.
and the Rio Grande way in the distance. Unlike in Taos, it’s all muddy here.
Right next door is the oldest house in the city, made of adobe (13th century), if not in the whole country.
We won’t be able to visit it since it’s closed (it’s Sunday).
Next up is the Loretto Chapel and its supposedly miraculous spiral staircase before heading to the Cathedral of Francis of Assisi (also closed, unfortunately). We’ll just admire the exterior,
including a lovely statue of a Native American woman.
Our last stop is the charming Santa Fe Plaza and its big trees, with the Palace of the Governors right across the street, featuring luxury shops, souvenir vendors,
and Pueblo Indians selling their jewelry, crafts, and sand paintings under the arcades lining the palace.
Time to head back to the hotel. A well-deserved dip in the pool.
Tonight, dinner at Cowgirl Grill—it was really good and at a very reasonable price: $68 for 1 big ribs, 1 burger, 1 beer, and a cider in a lovely setting. And with the leftovers we took home, our lunch for tomorrow is all set.
Tomorrow, we’ll be in Albuquerque.
And even on the pillars of the houses:
The town is pure Western style, with lots of unpaved sections. You almost expect to see cowboys and their horses riding down the street. Back in the day, it was thriving—complete with a theater, 4 hotels, and 21 saloons—when Native American artisans worked with turquoise and lead. Today, it’s practically a ghost town, but we love that the style has been preserved in the newer buildings, which still use stucco and colored sand finishes.
I loved wandering around in that Peace and Love vibe, full of humor and surprises.
And the delightful chaos of the sweet eccentric who collects bikes and bottles to display by the roadside.
And to see the stunning Old Town Plaza:
This village seems very poor; the houses don’t look like those in Taos Pueblo. There’s a building for “Catholicization.”
This trip back in time searching for remnants is really enjoyable.
We arrive in Grants with its pretty murals.
From the Roaring 20’s speakeasy, a prohibition-era illegal bar, only this relic remains.
We immortalized our presence on Route 66 by taking a photo under the Route 66 Neon Drive-Thru Sign (don’t ask me for the translation—I didn’t quite get it).
If you’re interested, take exit 85 on I-40. Both are right on Santa Fe Avenue and very visible.
We hit the road again. We’re about 60 km from Red Rock State Park, and little by little, the red rocks appear in the distance. It’s awesome! I’ve been waiting for them for a while! The sun’s out—our hike’s going to be amazing. When you’re on sections of the historic Route 66, you regularly see signs for old abandoned motels standing sadly alone with nothing around. And when buildings remain, they’re fenced off and overgrown or turned into junkyards. What a sad end!!!
Well, that’s life—let’s move on to something happier. A hike is coming up!!! Yay, yay, yay!!!
We’re greeted by prairie dogs, then the hike starts off easy on a sandy, flat path with today’s goal in sight.
But very quickly, we start climbing gently but steadily. The slide rock is everywhere, and the trail is narrow, but the view of the canyons is so beautiful.
We see the sandstone spires of Church Rock in the distance.
It goes up, then down, following huge cairns. We cross a dried-up stream
when suddenly we’re faced with steps carved into the cliff rock.
Oh boy, I’m not feeling great about this. The slope is steep and rocky.
If we have to go back down this way, we’re not getting to the car anytime soon.
We climb four sets of steep steps and ladders before reaching the plateau (if you look closely, you can see them in the photo when zoomed in).
From there, we have a choice: head left toward the pyramid at the cairn (but the car would be too far from the end) or go right and pass by the base of Rock Church. That’s what we’ll do.
The return is easy, and luckily, the loop doesn’t take us back through the carved rocks. It’s supposed to take an hour (it took us 1h30) and have 78 m of elevation gain (I’m convinced there’s way more). Another stunning hike.
Gallup is only about fifteen km from the park.
Visit to the magnificent Historic El Rancho Hotel
We wanted to eat there, but it was too crowded. So we head into town to look for the Navajo Code Talker mural (which we won’t find). However, at the Navajo Code Talkers Museum (closed), we can admire the statues honoring the Navajo soldiers who transmitted coded messages in their complex Navajo language—undecipherable by the enemy during World War II, especially in the Pacific.
More red rocks—they actually inspired the director of the animated movie *Cars*.
Due to the time change when crossing into Arizona, we had to set our watches back an hour. So, it’s not quite 8 AM, and it’s closed. Oh well, we’ll just enjoy this massive red rock and its Hole in the Wall after browsing some Navajo-run shops for a bit. There are some gorgeous pieces, but they’re ridiculously expensive, and photography is forbidden.
We spotted vending machines for drinks and snacks completely enclosed in a wire cage. There’s only a small opening to pay and retrieve the items. So weird!!!
The miles fly by. We still see so many abandoned motels (the Fort Courage area is in terrible shape, but the ruined buildings show how important it must have been back in Route 66’s heyday), desert landscapes, and most of the small houses scattered in the countryside aren’t in great condition. Poverty seems to be everywhere.
Hills, dips, canyons, flat expanses with a few mesas, dried-up rivers,
each overlook is different from the last—whether in color, depending on the rock composition, or in shape—though red dominates.
Some offer stunning gradients, while others are more uniform.
Quick stop at the 1932 Studebaker, exactly where Route 66 used to cross the park.
Just before crossing the bridge over the highway, leading us to the part of the park with the petrified trees
After the Teepees, the red gradually disappears, and gray dominates.
You can see canyons.
We cross stunning badlands with a few hoodoos in formation and no vegetation at all.
It’s almost surreal, and the increasingly numerous fossilized trunks add even more magic to the place!! The trunks were underground; tectonic plate movements lifted them, and they broke, as if cut with a knife.
The climb back up is a bit steep for non-hikers, but the walk at the bottom is definitely worth the effort.
Some have magnificent colors; they’re all different.
On others, you can still see the bark from when they were alive 220 million years ago.
And all of this with a stunning view of the surrounding landscape.
We’re nearing the exit. I spare DD the 2.5 km of the Long Logs Trail, which would’ve let us discover even larger specimens (yes, yes, I know—my kindness will be my downfall). I’m joking; we’ve been on the road for two weeks, and I’ve been squeezing him like a lemon!!!
We didn’t wait more than 20 minutes! Just a few photos and a quick climb on the giant rabbit.
Then we headed to Winslow to see the totem pole.
This stunning totem was carved on-site before being moved. It’s a 9-meter-high, 1.4-meter-wide trunk from 1979, honoring Indigenous peoples (respect and recognition).
From there, we made a quick stop at Standing on the Corner—just a few dozen meters away—where a street musician greeted us. So cool!!!!
We had fun taking photos (we weren’t the only ones!!!) with the bronze statues at the intersection, paying tribute to the Eagles (that’s Glenn Frey, the band’s founder) and Route 66.
Besides the statues and a beautiful mural,
you’ll find a pair of wings where everyone can dream of their next flight.
There’s also a huge Route 66 shield right in the middle of the intersection.
We followed the railroad tracks. At one point, the locomotive and cars from all four lanes of I-40 seemed to merge into a single line across the bleak desert plain.
Meteor City Trading Post, with its dinosaurs and vintage cars, was closed too—it doesn’t open until 10 AM. We’re definitely not having much luck; I think we’re getting up too early!!!
We skipped Meteor Crater on purpose—it’s too expensive. $29 to see a crater caused by a meteorite impact? They’re really overcharging! Even if it does look amazing. Plus, with our basic English, we wouldn’t have understood much anyway.
Final detour to the ruins of the Twin Arrows Trading Post. Another iconic spot, now just tagged walls and a roof. One of the arrows is gone too. I hope the message written there isn’t prophetic.
Poor Route 66! What have they done to you? 😢
Just before the exit to see the arrows, the massive Navajo casino looms over the yellow plain, greedily waiting for someone to leave a few dollars behind.
Lots of trucks on the road despite the rail transport. Some of them are stunning.
There, the little trail runs along the cliff where the natives took advantage of every overhang to build their homes with stone walls (early 1100s). Up to 300 rooms were counted in the canyon, which they left 800 years ago.
Some structures are still in very good condition.
We alternate between trail and stairs.
The walk is easy; we can see Douglas firs covering one of the canyon slopes.
It smells like pine, a few flowers here and there add a splash of color, and there’s no noise. It’s so peaceful!
On one of the slopes, we discover more structures.
Okay, that’s enough sightseeing—we’ve gone around the rocky pinnacle, and now we have to climb back up to the visitor center.
We’ll take it easy, no rush. There are even benches along the way to catch our breath because all those steps really get the heart pumping. Flagstaff isn’t far now, and we get there quickly. It’s noon, and the Galaxy Diner is calling our names.
For 55 dollars, we get two huge burgers and two Diet Pepsis. Our stomachs are full, but it’s still too early.
We visit the old train station and its massive emblem.
An employee at the visitor center inside tells me where to find the giant statue of Louie the Lumberjack, the brother of Gallup’s Dude Man.
He’s in the student district, and for the first time in our lives, we see robots rolling along the sidewalks. We learn they’re there to deliver meals.
Check-in time has arrived. We’ll drop off our luggage and head back out in the late afternoon. Darn, the sky’s getting dark. We decide to take a quick trip to the spa to relax. It’s getting darker, thunder starts rumbling, and lightning streaks across the sky. Soon, torrents of rain and hail come crashing down on Flagstaff! We’ll stay dry in the hotel and eat our leftover picnic lunch in the room. The weekend’s looking rainy, and our hikes in Sedona seem pretty iffy. Oh well, carpe diem—we’ll see what happens and adapt tomorrow.
We came across these amazing manzanita bushes with branches that look varnished.
The trail then veers right, and the slope gets steeper for about 800 meters (a huge juniper tree, nicknamed "the alligator" because of its trunk, helped us find our way since the trail isn’t well-marked). A hiker we met on the path had mentioned an ephemeral arrow made of wood on the ground to mark the turnoff.
The cave came into view, and that’s when things got tricky. To reach this high-up cave, you either had to go left and follow a narrow ledge above the drop-off on this big rock,
or climb a steep, slippery rock wedged between two cliffs with few handholds.
The sun shone in, and the light played off the red walls.
A kind older man was there to give climbers advice and take photos for those who wanted to capture the moment. So nice!
It was still early, and there were very few people, so we could take our time. We spent 40 minutes admiring the view Mother Nature offered. Okay, time to head back down. I was a little nervous, but we had gear—a small strap. After a few hesitations, wedged in the crack, the descent was much easier and less stressful than the climb.
We made it down. Since we’d left early, we had plenty of time for both the climb and photos in the Subway. A very kind American woman took a souvenir photo for us.
We did it! We started the descent under the sun.
We passed more and more hikers heading up to the cave. It was going to get crowded up there, and the wait would be long for those who started late—especially since the sky was clouding over again. Even when the rock was dry, it wasn’t easy, and climbing the wet slide rock would’ve been impossible for me.
An amazing hike. It took us 3 hours and 20 minutes round trip.
Watch out—the parking lot is small and fills up quickly.
Perched on a promontory, this modern chapel built in 1956 is the perfect spot to admire the sunset and the surrounding nature—but today, the bad weather had other plans.
We were lucky to find a parking spot not far from the road leading to the chapel.
Despite the large windows, the interior—usually so bright—was very dark because of the weather.
And the red rocks looked muted.
We decided to head to the Red Rock Visitor Center near Bell Rock to grab some brochures when suddenly, the elements unleashed: thunder, lightning, downpour. We also needed to check the weekend weather to plan our days accordingly.
I thought about all the hikers we’d met on the way down from the Subway. They must not be having a great time.
By the time we picked up the brochures, checked the weather, and had our picnic sheltered at the visitor center, the skies cleared again—letting us imagine we were in Mexico, in the little village of
Tlaquepaque.
It’s so nice to stroll through art galleries (weaving, painting, sculpture, etc.) and shops.
Courtyards,
tall trees with strange shapes,
fountains,
and arches.
The change of scenery is immediate and so pleasant.
We headed back to the lodge for a little spa time, still under the sun, and stayed there until 5:15 PM, when we went to watch the sunset near the airport, lighting up the mountains.
Getting brighter and brighter
Until they glow completely red
7:04 PM, everything’s darkened again
But even though the sun had disappeared below the horizon,
it gave us one last gift by lighting up the rocks indirectly
One last look at The Teapot
That’s it—the sun’s gone down. We head back to the lodge before everyone rushes to the parking lot to get their cars and we end up stuck in a memorable traffic jam. The Fiesta Mexicana is just a few minutes’ walk from Sugar Loaf for $94 (2 steak burritos and 2 margaritas). It’s nice not having to get back in the car.
All in all, a really positive day despite the weather forecast. We got lucky and managed to do everything we’d planned. Tomorrow, we’re hiking to Devil’s Bridge. We’ll also have to get up early to beat the rain.
We cross little dried-up streams, surrounded by beautiful red sandstone formations. The forest offers some shaded spots—this approach hike is really pleasant.
we start the descent. We pass hundreds of people heading up—some in flip-flops, others without water. Not smart!!!
We hit the road again. The fiery-colored rocks take on amazing shapes here.
Bell Rock
You can see people waiting for the sunset right on the rock.
We stay a little while to admire their stunning colors.
It’s time to head back—the horizon is dark again, treating us to a beautiful rainbow over the formations.
The sky is black—it’s gonna pour!!!!!
The third intense storm of the day hits around 6 PM, complete with thunder and lightning. We made it back in time. I’m thinking of everyone who chose to watch the sunset at Airport Scenic Overlook—it’s about a 40-minute walk to get there. The descent in the rain must’ve been epic.
So far, despite the bad weather caused by a Pacific hurricane, we’ve been really lucky. We managed to dodge the rain and do two of the three hikes planned in this incredible place. We drive to the Indian restaurant right next to our lodging. The rain has stopped, but who knows what the sky has in store for us.
For 74 dollars, we feast on an amazing, flavorful meal (1 rice, 1 naan bread, 2 meat mixes, and 1 lamb tikka, plus a beer and a soda). I take the opportunity to chat in English with a friendly Pakistani family at the next table.
Tomorrow is the West Fork Oak Creek hike—will our luck hold? Only time will tell!!!
- We pass the small ruined cabin (it’s an old hunting lodge from 1920). After this little path, we almost reach the river, and we struggle for a moment to find the start, but once we’re in the right spot, we can follow the trail easily thanks to excellent signage.
The colors are muted due to the lack of sun, but it’s still stunning as we see mist rising from the ground toward the tops of the cliffs in a slightly eerie atmosphere that I really like.
We follow the river and admire the work of the water on the rocks.
At their base, the ground is covered with red or green ferns.
As we keep moving forward, always easily on sand, rocks, or slide rock, we see aquatic plants but always in this festival of green.
Soon the sun reappears, and with it, everything brightens up. We go up, down, cross the stream, step over roots, or go under fallen trees. I’m in heaven!! The sun plays with the light!!
The rock alongside the river is carved, offering us magnificent ledges.
We soon reach the end of the marked trail. We’ll keep going a bit more to reach a stunning spot. The canyon has narrowed, and from here on, there’s no more path—if we want to continue, we’ll have to get wet. The scenery is incredible; plants and rocks reflect in the water, making it hard to tell mineral from aquatic.
The sun is still shining. We stay a little while to soak in the magic of the place. I had brought my swimsuit, towel, and water sandals with the intention of going up the river in the water, but it’s time to leave if we want to escape the predicted storm—especially since the sky is darkening again.
