1 month in northern Laos (Oct 23 to Nov 24, 2025)

Northern Laos, Nov 25

Thursday, Oct 23. Left home at 8:25 AM, took the bus from St Cyp to Perpignan, then a BlaBlaBus to Barcelona airport. Last night, a huge storm crossed France, and the bus was an hour late. We finally left at 11 AM. At the Spanish border, we were checked—several Africans were traveling on the bus, and their document verification took quite a while. In the end, everything was in order, and we set off again a good half-hour later. We finally arrived at Barcelona airport after 2 PM, but no stress since my flight was scheduled for 4:30 PM with Saudia. At check-in, the hostess told me there’d be a 1-hour delay due to bad weather in France and Belgium. In the end, the flight didn’t just have a 1-hour delay but a 5-hour one because of a technical issue. The next flight wouldn’t wait for us. When we arrived in Jeddah, they gave us another ticket for the following day—the flight to Bangkok was scheduled for 11:55 AM. The airline assigned us a room, which was good news since I was exhausted. Friday morning, the flight was still scheduled for 11:55 AM, but the gate wasn’t displayed. It was announced with a 1-hour delay, but that stretched to 4 hours. They handed out drinks and a snack—again, the delay was due to technical problems. In Bangkok, I had a connecting flight to Chiang Rai, where I’d also booked a room—I lost everything. We finally arrived in Bangkok on Saturday at 4 AM. I had to buy another ticket for a 7 AM flight. The formalities were quick, and my flight went smoothly. A taxi took me to Bus Terminal 1, where I caught a bus leaving at 10 AM, and we arrived at the Thailand-Laos border. I shared a taxi with other travelers, which took us to Houay Xai. The guesthouse I’d booked was right across from the stop—that was great. I exchanged some money and bought a SIM card at the guesthouse. Despite the fatigue, I needed to stretch my legs, so I walked down the street to the temple.









and continued to Fort Carnot, built by the French.



The views of the Mekong are beautiful for a first glimpse of the country.





yum-yum, bon appétit!

At 6:30 PM, I went to dinner at a restaurant across from the guesthouse—a chicken curry with vegetables.



I didn’t linger and went back to bed. I slept well, even if I woke up often.

Sunday, October 26. At 9 AM, a car picks me up and takes me to the pier where I board a boat with Shampoo Cruise. The boat, styled like a barge with benches and tables, is really cute and comfortable—I’ll appreciate it after all the recent hassles. There are only six of us boarding, so this "cruise" is going to be relaxing.





We’re welcomed with a welcome tea. On the boat, there’s plenty of fresh air, and it’s not too hot. The landscapes are mountainous and lush, with teak forests in bloom. I’m enjoying the peace and quiet.







At 11:30 AM, the crew prepares a buffet for lunch and invites us to help ourselves. It features Lao specialties with vegetables, salads, chicken, and fish steamed in banana leaves—but it’s a bit overcooked for my taste. For dessert, we have pieces of mango, pineapple, apple, and watermelon.

A little later, we stop in a village where the houses are made of wood on stilts. The newer ones are made of concrete.







The kids walk us back to the pier.

(continuing from Oct 26)

On the way back on the boat, the cook prepares steamed rice with sweet coconut milk plus a piece of banana wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed for 25 minutes. We help her prepare them. It’s tasty and fragrant.





The landscapes are still stunning.



We disembark in Pakbeng, where we’ll spend the night. Tuk-tuks are waiting for us and take us to our hotels. Mine is in the village, the Phonemany Villa—simple and clean, perfect for one night. Once settled in, I head out to explore the village, which consists of guesthouses, hotels, and restaurants. Tonight, I’m having dinner with a pumpkin soup, a local specialty. It’s made with pumpkin, onion, ginger, and coconut milk, but I find it too sweet and don’t like it at all. I don’t finish it, pay the bill, and head off to find another restaurant. I try another soup—this one with vegetables and vermicelli—and it’s really good.

Monday, Oct 27 I need to get to the pier, which isn’t too far on foot, and the guy from the guesthouse brings my bag on his motorbike—I really appreciate it. I didn’t have breakfast, so on the way I buy a plain croissant. It’s heavy and definitely not made with Isigny butter!!!

We leave at 7:30 AM and make two stops before arriving in Luang Prabang. At first, it’s not warm, and the crew hands out blankets.

At 11:30 AM, just like the day before, the cook prepares a buffet that’s just as friendly and varied as yesterday’s.

We make our first stop at the Buddha caves—I don’t catch the name of this cave.







We make another stop at Whisky Village—they call it that because they make rice alcohol here, using the same method I saw last year near Battambang in Cambodia. The shops are packed together, and the women weave while waiting for customers.



We pass under a huge bridge built by the Chinese.



We arrive in Luang Prabang around 4 PM. Tuk-tuks are waiting to take us to our accommodations. I booked a room at a small guesthouse, Phai Gh. It’s simple, and the couple who runs it is really friendly. The location is great. Once I’m settled, I exchange my euros at a bureau in my street.

I head out to explore the shopping streets and can’t resist getting a massage.

I have dinner at a pretty noisy restaurant—the food is just okay. I won’t be going back there.



I wander through the night market, which leads me to the street food area. You pick your meal and eat it on-site—there are tables available. This place is super popular.

Checking my GPS, I see I’m only about 10 minutes max from the guesthouse, so I take this street and head back to rest.

From Tuesday, October 28 to November 2. I slept pretty well last night, which is so rare that I’m noting it down. After breakfast, I set off to explore the historical monuments. I walk along the beautiful houses lining the Mekong.

I start with Wat Xieng Thong, also known as the "Monastery of the Golden City," about 1 km from the guesthouse. I’ve got a meet-up with the German couple who were on the boat at 9:30 AM, and we won’t be the only ones at this hour. (Entrance: 20,000 kip). This monastery is stunning and houses immense treasures. It’s located at the tip of the peninsula near the Mekong and is one of the most beautiful in Luang Prabang. The temple walls are covered in mosaics. Its façade is gilded on a richly decorated red background.



The back façade is adorned with a tree of life on a red background.

The exterior walls are black lacquer with gold ornamentation.



The interior of the monastery is breathtaking—walls, ceilings, and columns are covered in paintings.



The Buddha statue is enormous. In one building, there’s a magnificent royal funeral chariot, 12 meters high, carried by mystical serpents—the Nagas—as well as intricately carved doors.



In the small chapel, there’s a beautiful reclining Buddha.

I lost everything. We finally arrive in Bangkok on Saturday at 4 AM, and I have to buy another ticket for a 7 AM flight. The formalities are quick, and my flight goes smoothly. A taxi takes me to Bus Terminal 1, where I catch a bus that leaves at 10 AM.

With this new early domestic flight schedule, at least you didn’t have to spend the 50 or 60 € you’d planned on a taxi from Chiang Rai Airport to Chiang Khong because of a late flight arrival—it makes up a little for the money lost...

With this new early domestic flight schedule, at least you didn’t have to spend the 50 or 60 € you’d planned on a taxi from Chiang Rai airport to Chiang Khong because of a late flight arrival—it makes up a bit for the money lost...

I’d planned to sleep in Chiang Rai but lost the night. Visa reimbursed me for the domestic flight, so I’m actually doing pretty well.

Hi Marie Jo, I just read your travel journal from your trip to Laos. We went there in 2012—it’s been a while! But it doesn’t seem like much has changed... I’ll keep following your posts with interest... We just got back from a month in India, a relaxed trip to Kerala and Gokarna... considering our age now! 😉😎

Oct 28 (continued) We continue our visits along the same road leading to Wat Sensoukharam (free entry). It’s very beautiful with its red walls. It’s said to have been built with 100,000 stones from the Mekong River, hence its name, "Monastery of 100,000 Treasures."



We arrive in front of Haw Bang Pagoda, located within the National Museum complex.



Across the way, a few steps lead to the start of Mount Phousi. My companions opt for this visit, while I continue my walk to Wat Souvannapoumar, also known as Wat May (entry: 20,000 kip).

It has a four-tiered roof and beautiful bas-reliefs depicting daily life. The interior of Wat May is stunning, decorated with countless golden Buddhas.





On my way out, I continue my stroll toward the old town, which doesn’t hold much interest. I turn back and head toward the entrance of Mount Phousi. The climb is lined with statues.

The views of the Mekong aren’t very clear or exceptional—the vegetation is a bit too dense, so the photos won’t be amazing.



I descend on the Mekong side and walk through the shopping streets lined with beautiful colonial houses.





I head back to rest before dinner at Bamboo Tree, where the food is excellent—I’ll be back several times during my stay.

Hi Anne, I need to hurry and post this because I’m leaving on March 2nd for a month and a half in India. For me, it won’t be as relaxed—I still think I’m young! This year, West Bengal and Jharkhand—first time ever!!!! I always find new things to explore!!!!

Did your trip go well? Cheers,

What a joy to revisit the temples of Luang Prabang, where I went twice in the early 2000s! I also did the 2-day trip on the Mekong back then—there were more stops to see villages of different ethnic groups. It was an organized tour; from Pakbeng, we went to a Thai Lu village where the women made beautiful weavings and farmers worked with elephants. Laos was nicknamed the "Land of a Million Elephants."

I was taking slides... which I never digitized. I’m loving your photos of the temples and colonial buildings—they bring back such great memories from those trips. I really love the architecture of the old temples, which are the same style as those found in northern Thailand.

I’ll be following your journey with pleasure in northern Laos.

But you’re still young and tireless!!! More amazing discoveries ahead... For us, it was fewer discoveries, for sure!!! But still really nice...

Thanks Noëlle. I also love the temple architecture and really enjoyed it. I didn’t expect Laos to be so touristy—last year in Cambodia, I saw fewer tourists except in Siem Reap. Luang Prabang is a pleasant city, but I’ve never really liked Phnom Penh much. Not sure if I didn’t prefer it, though.

Wednesday, Oct 29. Woke up late and considered going to the Tak Bat. I wanted to go, but I had a feeling it might be a tourist trap, so I didn’t set an alarm—it’ll depend on whether I wake up or not.

I took my time and had breakfast in my room. I started the day at the daytime market near Wat Phonxay, which was closed, so I’ll come back another time.

Pork products just like in France!!!



I wasn’t far from the National Museum, the former Royal Palace, so I took the opportunity to visit. You access it via a palm-lined avenue.

Photos are forbidden inside, and we had to leave our bags and phones in a locker before entering. We were closely monitored and searched. Photos are only allowed in the gardens, which are well-maintained with plenty of shade.

At 11:30 AM, it closed, and I was the last one to retrieve my things—I even forgot my hat. The Haw Phra Bang, or Wat Ho Pha Bang (Royal Temple), is adorned with magnificent decorations. Inside, there’s a large golden Buddhist statue, 83 cm tall and weighing 50 kg, which is the most revered in the country.

I went back to the guesthouse to rest for a bit. My next visits were all in my neighborhood. The complex includes two monasteries and a stupa. Wat Wisunarat is the oldest Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang, dating back to the 16th century. Inside, there’s an altar with a large seated Buddha statue surrounded by many standing statues. (Entry: 20,000 kips)



Wat Ahan (free entry) means "Temple of the Flourishing Heart." It was built in the early 19th century. The entrance is guarded by two stylized tigers, and statues of the temple guardians Ravana and Hanuman (from the Indian epic, the Ramayana) stand at the corners of the porch. This temple has no exterior decorations on its walls.

The interior is decorated with colorful murals depicting scenes from the life of Buddha and finely crafted wooden sculptures. The pillars and beams are painted red and gold.

Outside stands the That Mak Mo stupa, or the Great Lotus Stupa, also called the Watermelon Stupa due to the shape of its dome. It’s not well-maintained—what a shame.

I really loved this place—it was so calm and serene. I went in search of the Ethnographic Museum, which is set back from the main street. It’s very small but interesting. (Entry: 25,000 kips) Traditional costumes from the country’s different ethnic groups are on display, along with everyday objects and work tools.

Tonight at 6 PM, I attended a dance performance at the Royal Palace Theater. It was so slow—I didn’t really connect with it, and I almost fell asleep. I had dinner at the same restaurant as the night before, and on my way, I bought two pastries from a bakery for my breakfast. I ordered an eggplant-based dish, but it had no flavor—I wasn’t impressed tonight.

I headed back to the guesthouse after this lovely day.

Thursday, October 30 Today I want to go to the Kuang Si Falls, but to get there I need to rent a scooter. I’ve only ridden one once, over 25 years ago, so I’ll take it slow and be extra careful. (Rental: 15,000 kip).

At first, I’m not very confident on the bike and I crawl along—it takes me 2 hours to cover 30 km. The road is under construction and quickly turns into a dirt track with huge potholes (they’re more like ostrich nests!). I arrive safely at a massive paid parking lot (5,000 kip).

Shuttles take us to the starting point, and everything’s well organized—no wasted time. There are lots of Chinese visitors, and they group up to fill the cars.

At the entrance, you just follow the path to the first pool, where people are swimming.



I continue along the path to the main waterfalls—it’s truly breathtaking. There are crowds, but I manage to squeeze my way to the front.

A staircase of 540 steps leads to the top of the falls. I’m one of the brave ones who makes the climb. From up there, you can take a zipline back down.

I take another path that winds into the jungle, leading to another pool where swimming is allowed. I descend a steep trail through the jungle, running into several French travelers along the way. I reach the base of the main falls and cross a small bridge where the mist hits you. I take a few photos and soak in this spectacular moment.



I get back on the scooter—more confident than on the way there—and stop at the Buffalo Farm. You can buy cheese there, but I just grab an ice cream.

I return to Luang Prabang and drop off the scooter. I’m happy I handled it well, and the ride back was faster, which encourages me to rent one again in the coming days. The muddy track splattered everywhere, and my pants are completely stained. I head for a shower and then take my laundry to a laundromat.

While waiting for dinner, I stroll around this lovely town. The night market is lively, but I prefer to go back to my usual spot. Tonight: fish with vegetables.

Hi Marie Jo,

Same spot at night 😉



I’ll read your post carefully—I’m curious to hear your impressions of this country I recently discovered.

Hi Kate, I’ve been quietly following your posts, and it inspired me to do my own. For your photo, I think I have a night shot too—this house is just made for photos. One thing’s for sure, I’m way more accident-prone than you are. 😎[;)

Hello! Another travel journal, another perspective—let’s go! Especially over a month, it’s a great chance to really explore the area.

PS: The caves of the 1,000 Buddhas are called Pak Ou 😉

Hello Bruno, And yes, another travel journal that’ll be more adventurous than Kate’s. PS: The caves with the 1,000 Buddhas are called Pak Ou. Yeah, I know you’ll see it now—just wait for what’s next...

Friday, October 31st. Today I rent a bike and head towards the pier located behind the museum. I'm much more comfortable on this ride than with the scooter. The crossing (10,000 kip) is quick. Upon disembarking, just follow the arrows to reach Wat Ban Xieng Maen—the path starts on the left, running along the Mekong. The style of the houses here is quite different from Luang Prabang.



Schoolchildren are having lunch before heading to school.



I stop at Wat Xiengmene, which is closed. Some French travelers arrive on foot with a guide. I wait for them, hoping the guide will have a solution to open the temple, but unfortunately, they stay outside.



I continue my journey to Wat Chomphet (entrance: 20,000 kip). A staircase of about a hundred high steps requires a little effort, but it’s worth it—the temple door is slightly open. The interior is simple, with a few Buddha statues.





I come across a statue of a woman rinsing her hair—it was also at the previous temple, but I don’t know its meaning.



The view of the Mekong and L.P. is always captivating.



I carry on to Wat Longkhoun, which is in a well-maintained complex. The burgundy-painted timber-frame houses are bright.



The temple is at the exit, but unfortunately, it’s closed. I wave to a monk, who shakes his head—too bad. The exterior has beautiful frescoes that look like a comic strip.

(continuing Oct 31)

A cute little girl with an irresistible smile.



I continue on a rough track, forcing me to push my bike, leading to a complex with a beautiful view and several temples.





I head back to the village, wander around in every direction, and then make my way to the pottery house in Ban Chan Nua. At the village exit, the hill is steep, so I have to get off my bike again. When I arrive in Ban Chan Nua, signs point to the pottery house. It’s a bamboo house with pottery displayed on the ground floor, and it looks like there are rooms upstairs. The place is deserted, and a man shows up just as I’m leaving. I return to the ferry back in Luang Prabang, I have lunch at a small restaurant along the Mekong. I hang out at the night market as it sets up, then wander into an alley where they sell cooked dishes—some more appetizing than others.





Wat Phonxay Xayxana is open, so I take the opportunity to visit.





A little foot massage will do me a world of good—it’s so relaxing. (100,000 kip) Tonight, I’m dining at Bamboo Tree, where I’m starting to become a regular. I order fish cooked in a banana leaf—it’s delicious and filling.

Saturday, November 1st. Woke up at 5 AM, and I slept really badly last night. Knee pain and headaches make me think the weather’s about to change—rain shouldn’t be far off. Still, I get up to attend the Tak Bat ceremony; I won’t regret it.

I arrive on the street, which is still practically deserted. Stools, bowls, and large trash bins are set up along the sidewalk. Tourists who wish to can honor the alms-giving with a contribution. Groups of Chinese visitors arrive and take their seats on the stools. The gong sounds at 5:45 AM, and the monks arrive in single file starting at 6 AM. They pass in front of each seated person and fill their bowls. Once a bowl is full, the monk empties it into the large trash bins. The food (rice, cookies, candy, etc.) is then collected and distributed to those in need. I don’t see any locals participating in the distribution—I get the strong impression it’s only happening to satisfy tourists, so I head back to the guesthouse quickly.





This morning, I planned a boat trip to the Pak Ou Caves. I arrive at the pier at 8 AM and have to wait half an hour. Once on the boat, we head in the same direction as when I arrived, and I realize these caves are the ones I visited on my first day here!!!! We stop in a village that’s certainly different from the one last week, but we see the same things. We continue to the caves, which are, of course, identical, and I can’t help but smile—well played, silly me!!





I get a message that my train for tomorrow, booked through 12Go Asia, is canceled. Everything’s going wrong today. They offer me either a later train with a 12:50 PM departure, but I have to wait until 7 PM for confirmation, or cancel. When I return to Luang Prabang, after receiving several messages, I have to make a decision. I stop by a few agencies and book a bus ticket for 7 AM tomorrow, even though I know the trip will take over 6 hours. I cancel the train ticket, hoping I’ll get a refund. I get another message saying I can’t cancel yet—I have to wait for the 7 PM offer. Finally, the train is full, and this time they accept my cancellation. It’s all so complicated, especially since I had the ticket with my seat, the QR code—everything seemed fine. I end the day with a stroll and dinner at a restaurant near the guesthouse run by a guy from Toulouse, but I didn’t pick well—it’s not great. Well, today hasn’t been great overall.

Once on the boat, we head in the same direction as when I arrived, and then I realize these caves are the ones I visited on my first day!!!! We continue to the caves, which are obviously the same ones, and I smile—well played, silly me!!

I get it now... Some really pretty caves, but there’s no need to visit them twice!

Sunday, Nov 2. At 7 AM, the minibus picks me up. Three people are already on board, and we pick up another one a bit further down the road. It’s comfortable traveling with just five of us. The driver is on the phone the whole time. After about an hour, he pulls over to the side of the road, makes a long call, and we wait for ages. Another minibus arrives, they exchange a few words, then it leaves, and we’re still stuck. After another hour, he finally decides to start driving again, and we ride for one more hour. We arrive at a large muddy lot where trucks, minibuses, and cars are parked. The road is closed in one direction, and in the other, vehicles are moving at a crawl. The driver makes us get out, we grab our luggage, and he takes us to the minibus we’d passed earlier. It’s hard to find a seat, but we all manage to sit down. We wait another hour before leaving, then drive for another hour before finally stopping at a restaurant for a one-hour break. We pass through hilly, karst landscapes on the way to Vang Vieng—it’s stunning.



I continue to Vientiane, arriving at 7 PM. A tuk-tuk takes me to the hotel—the ride lasts 20 minutes and costs 100,000 kip. I didn’t negotiate; I was too tired and just wanted to get there. I have a large room, and the hotel is really nice. Tonight, I dine at the hotel restaurant. I go to bed early, exhausted from the journey. I wake up in the middle of the night with a headache—it’s annoying, especially since I don’t usually get them.

Monday, Nov 3. When I wake up, I find water on the desk and the floor right under the AC. I go find an employee, who follows me, looks, and leaves without saying anything. Breakfast is included in the room price, and it’s a buffet. I keep it classic with eggs, a baguette, butter, jam, and fruit. Before heading out, I stop by reception—they tell me I’m changing rooms, but none are available yet, so I have to repack. The hotel is well located, and I can do my sightseeing on foot. A small alley leads to the Wat Dam Stupa, or Black Stupa. It’s in the middle of a roundabout and covered in vegetation.

An old house catches my eye—I go inside, and the decor is vintage.



There’s no one around, but on the side, I see a terrace with a bar. I continue to Wat Sisaket (entry: 30,000 kip). It’s in the city center, in a large garden.





Photos are forbidden inside—too bad, because the murals are beautiful. It’s the oldest temple in Vientiane. The outer walkways are lined with Buddhas.

Across the street is Wat Ho Phra Kéo. Here, too, photos are forbidden inside, and the corridors outside are lined with beautiful Buddha statues.



I pass by Chao Anouvong Park, where the king’s statue is located.

I continue to Wat Impeng. When I arrive, I meet a French couple with a Lao guide, and the woman looks at me and says, "But you’re MarieJo!" I’m surprised because I don’t know her. I didn’t realize I was so famous!! She introduces herself—she’s Elisabeth from the forum where we’ve exchanged messages about this trip. What a surprise!!! Two statues guard the staircase leading to the temple. Frescoes decorate the walls and ceiling. The entrance door is gilded and beautifully decorated.

I don’t see any locals taking part in the distribution—I really got the impression it was only happening to satisfy the tourists, so I headed back to the hostel pretty quickly.

Looks like you enjoyed it as much as I did

That said, we met two travelers a few days later who told us that in the small side streets perpendicular to where this circus was happening, the ceremony had been much more pleasant. No tourists, just a few locals and the monks parading around.

I see you enjoyed it as much as I did

I had a feeling, but I was too curious not to check it out. Plus, I was upset seeing the monks throwing food into big trash bags. Later, I found out they distribute it to those in need. At least some people benefit from it.

Tuesday, November 4th. This morning I set off for a walk along the Mekong, hoping to find a nice neighborhood, but after several kilometers I didn’t find anything interesting and headed to Patuxai, the Arc de Triomphe, passing by embassies and the presidential palace.



I walk up the wide avenue lined with banks, temples, and a French school that leads to a square where Patuxai is located.

I go up (entrance 30,000 kip). On the first floor, a series of photos traces the history of Laos. A staircase leads to the terrace where you can see the city. View of the fountains

the prime minister’s palace.



I go down and cross the gardens with fountains that light up in the evening, and at the end I discover the World Peace Gong.

I continue to Pha That Luang, the golden stupa where the festival is taking place. This monument is the most sacred in the country, a symbol of Laos, and it’s said to contain a hair of Buddha inside.

I arrive at a huge square. The fair is set up for the festival, with food stalls, clothes, souvenirs, beauty products, household items, and even cars. I buy some sushi and find a picnic area where I can sit and eat in the shade.

The crowd gradually arrives, and you still have to walk 200 meters to get closer to the stupa. To enter the inner courtyard and walk around the stupa, tourists must rent traditional outfits (30,000 kip).

Laotians in traditional clothing arrive and happily pose for photos.

Wednesday, November 5 I arrive around 9:30 AM at the Boun That Luang festival. The monks are scattered across the square. They’ve set up tables, and on each one, there are cauldrons where Lao people can leave their offerings. Many of them have stacks of 1000-kip bills—it’s mostly the women who place them in each cauldron. At this hour, the monks are starting to fold up the tables.







The atmosphere is great; the Lao people are very smiley and happy to pose for one or more photos. Some of them speak a little French, and we’re all happy to chat.







By late morning, I leave the site and head to the bus station, which is over 2 km away.

(continuing Nov 5)

When I arrived at the station, I spotted bus 14 to take me to Buddha Park, 24 km from Vientiane. I was the first to board, but it quickly filled up. A woman sat next to me and told stories while laughing, but I didn’t understand a word—still, I laughed along with her. The bus dropped me off right in front of the entrance to Buddha Park, or Xieng Khuan (entry: 60,000 kips). It’s Laos’ version of the "Facteur Cheval."



As I entered, I was surprised to see so many statues scattered across a large garden. They varied in size, and some were quite intriguing. There are over 200 of them, representing Hindu and Buddhist deities. Near the entrance, a giant vegetable-shaped structure on three levels—representing Hell, Earth, and Heaven—caught my eye. To enter, you have to pass through the mouth of a demon over 3 meters tall. Once inside Hell, you climb stairs all the way up to Heaven. Each level has multiple representations. When you reach Heaven, you arrive on a terrace where you can truly appreciate the park’s vastness.

- A statue of a huge reclining Buddha caught my attention—it’s over 40 meters long, and everything here is on a massive scale.



I wandered around peacefully, discovering one surprise after another among all these statues. I really liked this place—it had a touch of madness to it.







Back in Vientiane, it was still early, so I headed back to the fair, which was as lively as ever.

Thursday, Nov 6. Departure for Vang Vieng. The minibus picks me up at the hotel around 8:30 AM. I’m the last one to get on, and there’s only one seat left at the back. By 11 AM, I’m already at the hotel, which is slightly off-center from the town and the main road. The hotel is simple, the welcome is warm, and I have a large room—simple and clean, which is what matters. When I arrive, the town looks really dusty and not very pretty. At the hotel, I see some tour offers on the counter with an agency, including the possibility of a hot-air balloon ride ($100). I go for the flight and book it for the next day; they’ll pick me up at 5 AM. It’s scorching hot and humid—really unpleasant. Today, I just explore the town. The hotel owner suggests visiting a cave at the other end of town, which will give me a chance to take a walk. I take an alley along the river with beautiful scenery.



Tham Chang Cave (entrance 20,000 kips). As I arrive, I hear French being spoken all around. This cave was used during the war against the Chinese in the 19th century and later during the civil war.

The visit starts with climbing 147 steep stone steps. As soon as you enter, you feel a refreshing coolness. For the tour, you just follow the well-lit path.



Well, honestly, it’s nothing to write home about!

At the exit, you can swim in a pool or relax on the lawns. A belvedere offers beautiful views of the river and the karst landscapes.

I see there's someone else here just as interested in temple visits as I am...🙂

Friday, November 7th Once again, I didn’t sleep well—I’ve got knee pain, a sign of bad weather coming in the next few days. At 5 AM, someone picks me up. There are six of us in the truck, and we’re driven out to the countryside to the hot-air balloon takeoff point. When we arrive, the crew is busy setting up under the watchful eye of the boss, who’s Franco-Swiss. He has us fill out an info sheet with our name and weight.

Inflating the balloon.



The hot-air balloons are unfolded, and all that’s left is to inflate them. The first step is filling them with cold air on the ground, then with hot air to lift and position them vertically. It’s pretty spectacular. An employee holds the balloon steady by pulling on a rope.



Lift-off and takeoff of the hot-air balloon. The pilot fires up the burner, shooting out giant flames, and the balloon begins its impressive ascent. Once it’s stabilized in a vertical position, all we have to do is climb in. To balance the weight, four people get in at the front and four at the back. We’re given final instructions: don’t move around in the basket so we don’t destabilize the balloon. The pilot keeps heating the balloon before it gently lifts off the ground, and the flight begins. The ride is smooth, and the movement is very slow. We rise to 900 meters. The landscapes are spectacular.









The landing field is in a field. Before touching down, we all have to crouch as low as possible in the basket. Once on the ground, the basket keeps moving with the balloon, and employees run to slow it down and stop it. Once it’s stationary, we can stand up and climb out.



A building serving as a canteen invites us to enjoy breakfast with fruits and local treats. The flight lasted 40 minutes—it went by fast. The views from the sky are stunning, but I found the movement a bit too slow. Back at the hotel, I rent an electric scooter and head out, more cautious and experienced, to explore the lagoons.

[/]I see there’s someone else as interested as I am in visiting temples...]

Welcome Joël! Yep, I visit a lot of temples, but I try to mix it up—it’s gonna start getting tough on the calves and thighs... but what a joy to finally get there😉

(continuing Nov 7)

Before leaving, I test it out in the hotel courtyard. It’s lighter than the previous one, and I feel more comfortable on it. I need to send a message to the hotel once I arrive at the first lagoon. I make stops all along the way to admire the rice field landscapes and karst peaks—it’s truly stunning, a feast for the eyes.

I start with lagoon #1, or the Blue Lagoon—it’s the most popular, and there are quite a few of us here to check it out. You can swim here and even try the zipline.



Next to the lagoon is Tham Phu Kham cave. A steep climb up a rocky path with about 200 steps gets you to the entrance. The first chamber, lit by natural light, houses a reclining Buddha. From there, you’ll need a headlamp and follow the arrows painted on the rocks. I venture in alone—some French travelers decided not to go. I have to be really careful; the path is pitch-dark, the rocks are slippery, and I don’t hear a sound. The atmosphere is eerie—it’s almost scary. I don’t know how deep it goes or how long it’ll take to explore, so I move slowly, keeping an eye out for the arrows. Just a few steps from the exit, I run into the two French women who finally decided to do the loop and are relieved to see me. They’d started to worry I might’ve gotten lost or fallen, so they came looking for me. They even thank me because if I hadn’t gone, they wouldn’t have either. But really, I should be thanking *them* for looking out for me. Such awesome girls.

I hop back on the scooter and head toward lagoon #2. It’s really pretty here too, and you can swim. There’s a narrow, wobbly bridge crossing the basin—lots of people try to cross it, and many end up falling into the water before reaching the other side. I watch them for a while.



I walk around the basins before hitting the road again—I like this one better than the first.





Time to head to a viewpoint. Nam Xay View Point isn’t too far. At the starting point, a sign says the climb takes about half an hour. By the time I arrive, rain starts pouring, so I wait a bit under cover before deciding to go for it. The climb is pretty steep, and the path is slippery with lots of rocks. Luckily, you can hold onto the bamboo at the trickier spots, which makes it easier. The last stretch is really steep, and I’m happy to reach the top. Most of the tourists here are French. The 360° views are breathtaking and impressive—I don’t regret the effort at all.



Below the peak on either side, there’s a motorcycle on display, and you can climb down to take a photo with it.

Alright, one last shot before heading down.



I descend slowly, being extra careful—all those rocks are super slippery. I make it down without any issues, take a moment to rest, and grab a sugarcane juice before heading back to Vang Vieng. What an amazing day!

Saturday, Nov 8th. This morning it's raining, the sky is overcast, and the beautiful landscapes have disappeared. I was supposed to head out on the scooter for the day, but I’m giving up—I’ll just adapt to the weather. The baby in the house is drawing all the attention.



I got a WhatsApp message from the agency that handled my train ticket booking back to L.P. They say I need to pay a supplement to travel in first class. My credit card isn’t working, but the receptionist agrees to take care of it. After the transaction, I get my ticket—what a relief! I haven’t had much luck with transportation on this trip; bad luck has been following me since the start. I head into town, decked out in a poncho and a rain hat. I stop at a bakery for a pineapple juice and can’t resist adding a chocolate cake. The cake has no flavor, sticks to my teeth, and is rubbery—basically, I’m not enjoying it and leave it on the plate. The sun seems to be coming back, so I return to the hotel to drop off my rain gear. I set off to visit Angel Cave, 2 km away. The landscapes are still stunning—I love this place.



There are lots of people and activities here (canoeing, ziplining, tubing, and the cave). I only visit the cave, which is quite deep and well-lit.



The zipline looks tempting, but I just watch others descend, screaming. It’s pretty dizzying. I didn’t bring clothes for the tubing tour, and I have my camera, so I just daydream instead.



Tonight, I’m dining at « OH LALA » Restaurant. The place is packed, and several of us are waiting for tables to free up. I order ginger fish with rice and try the Lao beer—I’m not a big beer fan, but I manage to drink it.





I head back in the rain. I really liked Vang Vieng—too bad the rain kind of ruined my visits.

Tomorrow, the tuk-tuk will pick me up at 9:45 AM.

Sunday, Nov 9. As planned, the tuk-tuk is on time, and in 10 minutes I’m at the station. The building is brand new and huge. There are lots of Chinese people in the square taking selfies and photos.



At the entrance, we have to show the ticket QR code and our passport. Luggage goes through a scanner. The hall is split in two—one side for Chinese travelers, the other for tourists. The middle is empty.



Ten minutes before the train arrives, the doors open. We line up single file to go through another check to reach the platform. The train is right on time, and the car positions are clearly marked. I’m in the last car at the end of the platform. The seats are comfy and reclinable. The trip only lasts an hour. When I leave L.P. station, I see lots of cars. A taxi offers his services and asks for 200,000 kips. I have no idea what the rate should be, but I negotiate it down to 150,000. The station is far from the city. I go back to Phai GH, which is well-located and friendly. I don’t get the same room—it’s smaller, but for one night, it’ll be fine. I pick up my bag where I’d left scissors and nail clippers. :) I head out to exchange money and buy a bus ticket for tomorrow morning. I keep wandering down my street to the temple, where I’m the only visitor.



Across from it, there are several restaurants, and I choose one with terrace armchairs. From there, I head back into town, buy some pastries for breakfast tomorrow, and stop by the night market for a few small purchases. The photogenic beautiful house—little nod to Kate.



I go to Bamboo for dinner. It’s packed tonight. I end up waiting a good hour between ordering and being served. When my food still hasn’t arrived, I get up to leave, and the server comes running over, shouting “sorry, sorry.” I sit back down, and he brings the ginger pork with rice. The manager comes over and offers me dessert—caramelized banana—and apologizes for the delay due to a big group. After the meal, I ask for the bill. The waiter comes back and says the meal is on the house because of the inconvenience. I don’t agree, and the manager comes to talk to me. She speaks French and insists on giving it to me for free since I’ve been there several times, including tonight. I refuse, and after some back-and-forth, we agree that I’ll pay half the bill. She hopes to see me again if I come back to L.P.



On my way back, I cross the market again and buy a little parasol.

The hall is split in two, one side for the Chinese, and the other for tourists. The center is empty.

I’m falling off my chair 😮 Did you mean one side for Laotians, the other for tourists, or have they nationalized the station?

I'm falling off my chair 😮 Did you mean one side for Laotians, the other for tourists, or have they nationalized the station?

One side reserved for the Chinese The train and station must belong to China. They certainly built the station for their tourists. They build roads, bridges... they're invading Laos, as well as the Vietnamese, I think I heard...

Tonight, I’m dining at the « OH LALA » Restaurant

A nod to the French favorite expression of delight: "oh là là!" 😄

I’m heading to Bamboo for dinner. It’s packed tonight. I’ll have to wait a good hour between ordering and being served.

We found it a bit of a factory... Disappointed, we set our sights on Phonheuang Café, a small neighborhood spot where you have to wait your turn to eat because it’s so good and super cheap. Plus, it was smaller, more family-run, and in a really quiet corner.

The train and the station must belong to China. They definitely built the station for their tourists. They build roads, bridges... they’re invading Laos, as well as Vietnam, I think I heard.

... I also noticed that every restaurant offered chopsticks to eat with. But as far as I know, Cambodians eat with their fingers or with a spoon and fork.

In the south of the country, tourism is present but different. Westerners, backpackers, slow travelers... who blend in a bit better.

A side reserved for the Chinese The train and station must belong to China. They definitely built the station for their tourists. They’re building roads, bridges... they’re invading Laos, and I think I’ve heard the Vietnamese are too....

I knew this line was funded and built by China, but I didn’t realize they were giving their compatriots priority . It’s like Trenitalia reserving access for Italians on the recently opened Paris/Lyon line!!!

Monday, Nov 10. I’ve got a meet-up at the agency near the GH at 8:30 AM. A tuk-tuk truck picks me up, and we continue picking up others. It takes us to the bus station, where the minibus is waiting, and the locals have already taken their seats. We set off after 9:30 AM. On the way, the driver stops and asks a couple with a child who are arguing to get off. He talks with them, then everyone gets back on, and we continue the journey in peace. The road, as always, isn’t great, and we’re a bit jostled around. The landscapes are stunning.

We arrive in Nong Khiaw at 4 PM. I continue to Muang Ngoi. A tuk-tuk takes us to the dock. The boat fills up quickly, mostly with young French travelers who are on the road for several months. They’re all really friendly and invite me to dinner with them tonight. One of them complains of being very tired—she doesn’t have the right dosage of her levothyroxine. I can help her out with 2 tablets so she can adjust her treatment. Mutual aid is important, so I’ll bring them to her tonight at the restaurant.

Muang Ngoi is a small village—it’s basically one street where guesthouses, restaurants, trek agencies, and shops line up in a row. (Bus: 123,000 LAK. Boat: 70,000 LAK.) It’s a bit overwhelming, but luckily we’re not in peak season, even though there are quite a few tourists. I’m staying at Suan Pho GH, where breakfast is included. It’s pretty far from the dock, but a French guy on a bike came to pick up some tourists. He takes my bag on his bike and drops me off near the GH.



Tuesday, Nov 11. I have breakfast on the terrace outside near two French couples. We chat, and one of the couples lives just 10 km from my place—small world! The other couple is heading to India after this trip, and they love that country too. I set off on the 3-village trek and run into the French group along the way. We walk along the path, talking, and miss the turnoff that goes through the rice fields.



We visit Ban Na village together, stop for tea, and from the terrace, we watch young people gathering rice straws and bundling them by hand.



I continue alone to Hoy Bo village. To get there, I have to take off my shoes to cross a stream.



I’m the only tourist. I sit quietly on a bench, and soon curious little girls come over to see me.



On the way back to Ban Na, I grab a bite and something to drink at a restaurant. The view of the rice fields is beautiful.



I head back to the path to reach the third village, Houay Sen. I have to cross a ford, then follow the path along the river before arriving at the village.



I walk around the village and start making my way back. About 4 km from Muang Ngoi, a man on a motorbike stops next to me and offers me a ride. I don’t hesitate long before accepting because I’m starting to get tired. I have dinner at the Gecko restaurant.

Wednesday, Nov 12. Some new French folks are settled on the terrace for breakfast. They're Parisians and have friends in a village north of Perpignan. The Pyrénées-Orientales are well represented in this remote village. The G.H. owner takes me by motorbike to the pier. I'm off on a private boat for a ride to the villages of Ban Hat Saepia and Sopchem.

The sky is still quite hazy; Vietnam is getting a lot of rain right now, which explains the weather. Here, the mountains protect us from the rain.



I cross the village of Ban Hat Saepia—houses are on stilts made of woven bamboo.



I take the trail above that runs along the river and leads to the village of Sopchem.



This village consists of a main street lined with houses where women weave and display scarves for sale. At this early hour, I'm practically the only one wandering around and can't resist buying a few.



It's always fascinating to watch them weave.



I stroll through the village, observing the wooden houses on stilts. At the end of the village, the path leads to the river where I see pirogues. I spot my empty one—just need to head back to the village to find the boatman.

Back in Muang Ngoi, I head straight to Phanoy Viewpoint. The trail starts behind the temple. It's a bit steep, then there are wooden stairs. It takes about an hour to reach the top.



The views of the river are stunning—the effort is worth it.





A peaceful return to the village.

Thursday, November 13.



The boat leaves Muang Ngoi around 9:30 AM. We have a one-hour crossing to reach Nong Khiaw. When we arrive, tuk-tuks are waiting for customers. Several of us get on, and I’m the first to reach my destination. I check into my room and head out to explore the town. The main street is filled with restaurants and trek agencies. I walk all the way to the bridge, where there’s a beautiful view of the river.





I take a poorly maintained track—off-road motorbikes and trucks drive through, kicking up a lot of dust. The walk isn’t pleasant, so I turn back.





The starting point for the viewpoint, Pha Daeng View Point, is very close by (entrance: 40,000 kips, double the previous ones). I’m starting to get into shape and really enjoy it. The trail is well-maintained, but there are lots of steps to climb. The first level is reached in half an hour. The view of the river is beautiful.



I climb to the second level—the view is wider, but I prefer the one below, so I head back down quickly.



I don’t really feel like I’m in Laos here—there are mostly French people around. I wait for the sunset before heading back down.

Thursday, November 13.

The departure from the viewpoint, Pha Daeng View Point, is very close. (Entrance fee: 40,000 kips, double the previous ones). I’m starting to get well-trained and really enjoying it. The trail is well-maintained; there are lots of steps to climb, and the first level is reached in about half an hour. The view of the river is beautiful.



I climb to the second level—the view is wider, but I prefer the one below, so I head back down quickly.



Hi Marie Jo! The photos you posted here don’t match the location mentioned—there wasn’t a platform at Pha Daeng viewpoint, and the perspective was higher.

I looked it up on Google, and it looks like Som Nang, but if Richard passes by here, he can confirm (or not)—he climbed it too ;)

https://maps.app.goo.gl/88JfJQzB6aR6crGv8

That said, it doesn’t take away from the beauty of the place...

And since I can be stubborn as a mule sometimes, I searched and searched until I was losing my Lao—there are Pha Daengs *everywhere* , each with different elevation gains... Let’s drop the subject and get back to your trip. Sorry for the detour 😕

Friday, November 14. I rent a mountain bike near the guesthouse. I head toward the bridge and start pedaling, but I’m not moving and it’s making a strange noise. I realize the rear tire is flat, so I have no choice but to turn back and return it to the rental shop, which doesn’t have another one. Luckily, I find a bike on the main shopping street—newer and for the same price (100,000 kips).

I take Route L.P., which is busy with traffic, potholes, and dust. I pedal, push the bike up the hills—it’s exhausting, and I don’t see any villages or rice fields. I finally take a small path, but I quickly leave the bike near a house because the road is too rough, and I go for a short walk on foot.



I get back on the road, and after a while, I stop at a house overlooking rice fields—it’s hot.

I sit in the shade of a tree on a bench. Tired, I settle in, and a woman comes to sit beside me.

Some girls join us, and I take the opportunity to snap some photos. We’re all happy to share this moment.



I keep going a little longer, but the heat makes me turn back. On the way, I stop at a pretty little temple.



Back in Nong Khiaw, I cross the bridge and head to Ban Man Da Cave. The road here has steep hills, and I have to get off and push the bike several times. Ahead of me, a woman is doing the same—it’s reassuring to see others struggling like me, and I’m relieved to finally reach the sign. I leave the bike and follow a bamboo bridge that leads into the forest. At the end is the cave entrance.

This cave was a refuge for many locals during the American bombings. You have to go deep inside to reach a large cavern where kitchen utensils, pots, tables, and beds are still piled up—everything is left just as it was. It’s moving.





Outside, there’s a museum with lots of objects—bikes, helmets, trunks, and even bombs. A sign tells the story of this not-so-distant period—it’s important not to forget.







On the way back, I stop at the starting point for a viewpoint. Today, I’m a little tired—I’ll come back tomorrow morning. It’s about 2 km from the village. I watch the sunset from the bridge—there are a few of us waiting for it. Tonight, I eat at Pepper and Ginger restaurant—fish, rice, it’s really good, friendly and no-frills. I’ll be back.

Thursday, November 13.

Leaving the viewpoint, Pha Daeng View Point is really close. (Entrance is 40,000 kips, double the previous ones). I’m starting to get well-trained and I’m really enjoying it. The trail is well-maintained; you have to climb lots of steps, and the first level is reached in about half an hour. The view of the river is beautiful.



I climb to the second level—the view is wider, but I prefer the one below, so I head back down quickly.



Hi Marie Jo. The photos you posted here don’t match the location mentioned; there wasn’t a platform at Pha Daeng viewpoint, and the perspective was higher.

I looked it up on Google, and it looks like Som Nang—but if Richard passes by, he can confirm (or not), since he also went up there ;)

https://maps.app.goo.gl/88JfJQzB6aR6crGv8

That said, it doesn’t take away from the beauty of the place...

Hey Bruno! Yes, you’re absolutely right—I just realized I did Pha Daeng viewpoint two days later, so here we are!

Saturday, November 15. After breakfast at the same bakery as the day before, I get ready—shoes, walking poles—I need to be careful, my knees are fragile. Off to Pha Daeng View Point, whose trailhead is 2 km past the bridge. The sign is by the road, and the ticket is bought in the small booth above, attached to the house. (Entry: 50,000 kips)

It’s 9:50 AM. Right from the start, there are steps to climb, and the path keeps going up non-stop until the viewpoint.



I take it easy, stopping for photos along the way. It takes me 1 hour and 15 minutes to reach the top, and during the climb, I only ran into French travelers. The view is stunning, breathtaking.



Several terraces let you admire the 360° landscape.







I’m so happy I made it up without too much trouble, and the effort was worth it. I savor the moment for a while before starting the descent, which takes me 1 hour. What a joy this morning’s visit was. I rest in the shade at the booth when I get back, then head back to town for a cold drink on a terrace. I’m a bit tired, so I stop by the guesthouse to drop off my poles before going for a stroll. The day passes peacefully. I book a bus for tomorrow morning to Luang Namtha (350,000 kips). Final sunsets by the bridge.

In this cave, many locals took refuge during the American bombings.

Apparently, 50 people a year are still killed or injured by unexploded bombs! There are said to be 80 million that never exploded and are still buried underground :o