1 month in northern Laos (Oct 23 to Nov 24, 2025)
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
AL
Northern Laos, Nov 25

Thursday, Oct 23. Left home at 8:25 AM, took the bus from St Cyp to Perpignan, then a BlaBlaBus to Barcelona airport. Last night, a huge storm crossed France, and the bus was an hour late. We finally left at 11 AM. At the Spanish border, we were checked—several Africans were traveling on the bus, and their document verification took quite a while. In the end, everything was in order, and we set off again a good half-hour later. We finally arrived at Barcelona airport after 2 PM, but no stress since my flight was scheduled for 4:30 PM with Saudia. At check-in, the hostess told me there’d be a 1-hour delay due to bad weather in France and Belgium. In the end, the flight didn’t just have a 1-hour delay but a 5-hour one because of a technical issue. The next flight wouldn’t wait for us. When we arrived in Jeddah, they gave us another ticket for the following day—the flight to Bangkok was scheduled for 11:55 AM. The airline assigned us a room, which was good news since I was exhausted. Friday morning, the flight was still scheduled for 11:55 AM, but the gate wasn’t displayed. It was announced with a 1-hour delay, but that stretched to 4 hours. They handed out drinks and a snack—again, the delay was due to technical problems. In Bangkok, I had a connecting flight to Chiang Rai, where I’d also booked a room—I lost everything. We finally arrived in Bangkok on Saturday at 4 AM. I had to buy another ticket for a 7 AM flight. The formalities were quick, and my flight went smoothly. A taxi took me to Bus Terminal 1, where I caught a bus leaving at 10 AM, and we arrived at the Thailand-Laos border. I shared a taxi with other travelers, which took us to Houay Xai. The guesthouse I’d booked was right across from the stop—that was great. I exchanged some money and bought a SIM card at the guesthouse. Despite the fatigue, I needed to stretch my legs, so I walked down the street to the temple.









and continued to Fort Carnot, built by the French.



The views of the Mekong are beautiful for a first glimpse of the country.





yum-yum, bon appétit!

At 6:30 PM, I went to dinner at a restaurant across from the guesthouse—a chicken curry with vegetables.



I didn’t linger and went back to bed. I slept well, even if I woke up often.
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Sunday, October 26. At 9 AM, a car picks me up and takes me to the pier where I board a boat with Shampoo Cruise. The boat, styled like a barge with benches and tables, is really cute and comfortable—I’ll appreciate it after all the recent hassles. There are only six of us boarding, so this "cruise" is going to be relaxing.





We’re welcomed with a welcome tea. On the boat, there’s plenty of fresh air, and it’s not too hot. The landscapes are mountainous and lush, with teak forests in bloom. I’m enjoying the peace and quiet.







At 11:30 AM, the crew prepares a buffet for lunch and invites us to help ourselves. It features Lao specialties with vegetables, salads, chicken, and fish steamed in banana leaves—but it’s a bit overcooked for my taste. For dessert, we have pieces of mango, pineapple, apple, and watermelon.

A little later, we stop in a village where the houses are made of wood on stilts. The newer ones are made of concrete.







The kids walk us back to the pier.

AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
(continuing from Oct 26)

On the way back on the boat, the cook prepares steamed rice with sweet coconut milk plus a piece of banana wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed for 25 minutes. We help her prepare them. It’s tasty and fragrant.





The landscapes are still stunning.



We disembark in Pakbeng, where we’ll spend the night. Tuk-tuks are waiting for us and take us to our hotels. Mine is in the village, the Phonemany Villa—simple and clean, perfect for one night. Once settled in, I head out to explore the village, which consists of guesthouses, hotels, and restaurants. Tonight, I’m having dinner with a pumpkin soup, a local specialty. It’s made with pumpkin, onion, ginger, and coconut milk, but I find it too sweet and don’t like it at all. I don’t finish it, pay the bill, and head off to find another restaurant. I try another soup—this one with vegetables and vermicelli—and it’s really good.

AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Monday, Oct 27 I need to get to the pier, which isn’t too far on foot, and the guy from the guesthouse brings my bag on his motorbike—I really appreciate it. I didn’t have breakfast, so on the way I buy a plain croissant. It’s heavy and definitely not made with Isigny butter!!!

We leave at 7:30 AM and make two stops before arriving in Luang Prabang. At first, it’s not warm, and the crew hands out blankets.

At 11:30 AM, just like the day before, the cook prepares a buffet that’s just as friendly and varied as yesterday’s.

We make our first stop at the Buddha caves—I don’t catch the name of this cave.







We make another stop at Whisky Village—they call it that because they make rice alcohol here, using the same method I saw last year near Battambang in Cambodia. The shops are packed together, and the women weave while waiting for customers.



We pass under a huge bridge built by the Chinese.



We arrive in Luang Prabang around 4 PM. Tuk-tuks are waiting to take us to our accommodations. I booked a room at a small guesthouse, Phai Gh. It’s simple, and the couple who runs it is really friendly. The location is great. Once I’m settled, I exchange my euros at a bureau in my street.

I head out to explore the shopping streets and can’t resist getting a massage.

I have dinner at a pretty noisy restaurant—the food is just okay. I won’t be going back there.



I wander through the night market, which leads me to the street food area. You pick your meal and eat it on-site—there are tables available. This place is super popular.

Checking my GPS, I see I’m only about 10 minutes max from the guesthouse, so I take this street and head back to rest.
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
From Tuesday, October 28 to November 2. I slept pretty well last night, which is so rare that I’m noting it down. After breakfast, I set off to explore the historical monuments. I walk along the beautiful houses lining the Mekong.

I start with Wat Xieng Thong, also known as the "Monastery of the Golden City," about 1 km from the guesthouse. I’ve got a meet-up with the German couple who were on the boat at 9:30 AM, and we won’t be the only ones at this hour. (Entrance: 20,000 kip). This monastery is stunning and houses immense treasures. It’s located at the tip of the peninsula near the Mekong and is one of the most beautiful in Luang Prabang. The temple walls are covered in mosaics. Its façade is gilded on a richly decorated red background.



The back façade is adorned with a tree of life on a red background.

The exterior walls are black lacquer with gold ornamentation.



The interior of the monastery is breathtaking—walls, ceilings, and columns are covered in paintings.



The Buddha statue is enormous. In one building, there’s a magnificent royal funeral chariot, 12 meters high, carried by mystical serpents—the Nagas—as well as intricately carved doors.



In the small chapel, there’s a beautiful reclining Buddha.

SO Songsam Veteran ·
I lost everything. We finally arrive in Bangkok on Saturday at 4 AM, and I have to buy another ticket for a 7 AM flight. The formalities are quick, and my flight goes smoothly. A taxi takes me to Bus Terminal 1, where I catch a bus that leaves at 10 AM.

With this new early domestic flight schedule, at least you didn’t have to spend the 50 or 60 € you’d planned on a taxi from Chiang Rai Airport to Chiang Khong because of a late flight arrival—it makes up a little for the money lost...
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
With this new early domestic flight schedule, at least you didn’t have to spend the 50 or 60 € you’d planned on a taxi from Chiang Rai airport to Chiang Khong because of a late flight arrival—it makes up a bit for the money lost...

I’d planned to sleep in Chiang Rai but lost the night. Visa reimbursed me for the domestic flight, so I’m actually doing pretty well.
YA Yan55 Veteran ·
Hi Marie Jo, I just read your travel journal from your trip to Laos. We went there in 2012—it’s been a while! But it doesn’t seem like much has changed... I’ll keep following your posts with interest... We just got back from a month in India, a relaxed trip to Kerala and Gokarna... considering our age now! 😉😎
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Oct 28 (continued) We continue our visits along the same road leading to Wat Sensoukharam (free entry). It’s very beautiful with its red walls. It’s said to have been built with 100,000 stones from the Mekong River, hence its name, "Monastery of 100,000 Treasures."



We arrive in front of Haw Bang Pagoda, located within the National Museum complex.



Across the way, a few steps lead to the start of Mount Phousi. My companions opt for this visit, while I continue my walk to Wat Souvannapoumar, also known as Wat May (entry: 20,000 kip).

It has a four-tiered roof and beautiful bas-reliefs depicting daily life. The interior of Wat May is stunning, decorated with countless golden Buddhas.





On my way out, I continue my stroll toward the old town, which doesn’t hold much interest. I turn back and head toward the entrance of Mount Phousi. The climb is lined with statues.

The views of the Mekong aren’t very clear or exceptional—the vegetation is a bit too dense, so the photos won’t be amazing.



I descend on the Mekong side and walk through the shopping streets lined with beautiful colonial houses.





I head back to rest before dinner at Bamboo Tree, where the food is excellent—I’ll be back several times during my stay.
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Hi Anne, I need to hurry and post this because I’m leaving on March 2nd for a month and a half in India. For me, it won’t be as relaxed—I still think I’m young! This year, West Bengal and Jharkhand—first time ever!!!! I always find new things to explore!!!!

Did your trip go well? Cheers,
GA Gaura Veteran ·
What a joy to revisit the temples of Luang Prabang, where I went twice in the early 2000s! I also did the 2-day trip on the Mekong back then—there were more stops to see villages of different ethnic groups. It was an organized tour; from Pakbeng, we went to a Thai Lu village where the women made beautiful weavings and farmers worked with elephants. Laos was nicknamed the "Land of a Million Elephants."

I was taking slides... which I never digitized. I’m loving your photos of the temples and colonial buildings—they bring back such great memories from those trips. I really love the architecture of the old temples, which are the same style as those found in northern Thailand.

I’ll be following your journey with pleasure in northern Laos.
YA Yan55 Veteran ·
But you’re still young and tireless!!! More amazing discoveries ahead... For us, it was fewer discoveries, for sure!!! But still really nice...
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Thanks Noëlle. I also love the temple architecture and really enjoyed it. I didn’t expect Laos to be so touristy—last year in Cambodia, I saw fewer tourists except in Siem Reap. Luang Prabang is a pleasant city, but I’ve never really liked Phnom Penh much. Not sure if I didn’t prefer it, though.
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Wednesday, Oct 29. Woke up late and considered going to the Tak Bat. I wanted to go, but I had a feeling it might be a tourist trap, so I didn’t set an alarm—it’ll depend on whether I wake up or not.

I took my time and had breakfast in my room. I started the day at the daytime market near Wat Phonxay, which was closed, so I’ll come back another time.

Pork products just like in France!!!



I wasn’t far from the National Museum, the former Royal Palace, so I took the opportunity to visit. You access it via a palm-lined avenue.

Photos are forbidden inside, and we had to leave our bags and phones in a locker before entering. We were closely monitored and searched. Photos are only allowed in the gardens, which are well-maintained with plenty of shade.

At 11:30 AM, it closed, and I was the last one to retrieve my things—I even forgot my hat. The Haw Phra Bang, or Wat Ho Pha Bang (Royal Temple), is adorned with magnificent decorations. Inside, there’s a large golden Buddhist statue, 83 cm tall and weighing 50 kg, which is the most revered in the country.

I went back to the guesthouse to rest for a bit. My next visits were all in my neighborhood. The complex includes two monasteries and a stupa. Wat Wisunarat is the oldest Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang, dating back to the 16th century. Inside, there’s an altar with a large seated Buddha statue surrounded by many standing statues. (Entry: 20,000 kips)



Wat Ahan (free entry) means "Temple of the Flourishing Heart." It was built in the early 19th century. The entrance is guarded by two stylized tigers, and statues of the temple guardians Ravana and Hanuman (from the Indian epic, the Ramayana) stand at the corners of the porch. This temple has no exterior decorations on its walls.

The interior is decorated with colorful murals depicting scenes from the life of Buddha and finely crafted wooden sculptures. The pillars and beams are painted red and gold.

Outside stands the That Mak Mo stupa, or the Great Lotus Stupa, also called the Watermelon Stupa due to the shape of its dome. It’s not well-maintained—what a shame.

I really loved this place—it was so calm and serene. I went in search of the Ethnographic Museum, which is set back from the main street. It’s very small but interesting. (Entry: 25,000 kips) Traditional costumes from the country’s different ethnic groups are on display, along with everyday objects and work tools.

Tonight at 6 PM, I attended a dance performance at the Royal Palace Theater. It was so slow—I didn’t really connect with it, and I almost fell asleep. I had dinner at the same restaurant as the night before, and on my way, I bought two pastries from a bakery for my breakfast. I ordered an eggplant-based dish, but it had no flavor—I wasn’t impressed tonight.

I headed back to the guesthouse after this lovely day.
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Thursday, October 30 Today I want to go to the Kuang Si Falls, but to get there I need to rent a scooter. I’ve only ridden one once, over 25 years ago, so I’ll take it slow and be extra careful. (Rental: 15,000 kip).

At first, I’m not very confident on the bike and I crawl along—it takes me 2 hours to cover 30 km. The road is under construction and quickly turns into a dirt track with huge potholes (they’re more like ostrich nests!). I arrive safely at a massive paid parking lot (5,000 kip).

Shuttles take us to the starting point, and everything’s well organized—no wasted time. There are lots of Chinese visitors, and they group up to fill the cars.

At the entrance, you just follow the path to the first pool, where people are swimming.



I continue along the path to the main waterfalls—it’s truly breathtaking. There are crowds, but I manage to squeeze my way to the front.

A staircase of 540 steps leads to the top of the falls. I’m one of the brave ones who makes the climb. From up there, you can take a zipline back down.

I take another path that winds into the jungle, leading to another pool where swimming is allowed. I descend a steep trail through the jungle, running into several French travelers along the way. I reach the base of the main falls and cross a small bridge where the mist hits you. I take a few photos and soak in this spectacular moment.



I get back on the scooter—more confident than on the way there—and stop at the Buffalo Farm. You can buy cheese there, but I just grab an ice cream.

I return to Luang Prabang and drop off the scooter. I’m happy I handled it well, and the ride back was faster, which encourages me to rent one again in the coming days. The muddy track splattered everywhere, and my pants are completely stained. I head for a shower and then take my laundry to a laundromat.

While waiting for dinner, I stroll around this lovely town. The night market is lively, but I prefer to go back to my usual spot. Tonight: fish with vegetables.
KA Kate Globetrotter ·


Hi Marie Jo,

Same spot at night 😉



I’ll read your post carefully—I’m curious to hear your impressions of this country I recently discovered.
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Hi Kate, I’ve been quietly following your posts, and it inspired me to do my own. For your photo, I think I have a night shot too—this house is just made for photos. One thing’s for sure, I’m way more accident-prone than you are. 😎[;)
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Hello! Another travel journal, another perspective—let’s go! Especially over a month, it’s a great chance to really explore the area.

PS: The caves of the 1,000 Buddhas are called Pak Ou 😉
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Hello Bruno, And yes, another travel journal that’ll be more adventurous than Kate’s. PS: The caves with the 1,000 Buddhas are called Pak Ou. Yeah, I know you’ll see it now—just wait for what’s next...
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Friday, October 31st. Today I rent a bike and head towards the pier located behind the museum. I'm much more comfortable on this ride than with the scooter. The crossing (10,000 kip) is quick. Upon disembarking, just follow the arrows to reach Wat Ban Xieng Maen—the path starts on the left, running along the Mekong. The style of the houses here is quite different from Luang Prabang.



Schoolchildren are having lunch before heading to school.



I stop at Wat Xiengmene, which is closed. Some French travelers arrive on foot with a guide. I wait for them, hoping the guide will have a solution to open the temple, but unfortunately, they stay outside.



I continue my journey to Wat Chomphet (entrance: 20,000 kip). A staircase of about a hundred high steps requires a little effort, but it’s worth it—the temple door is slightly open. The interior is simple, with a few Buddha statues.





I come across a statue of a woman rinsing her hair—it was also at the previous temple, but I don’t know its meaning.



The view of the Mekong and L.P. is always captivating.



I carry on to Wat Longkhoun, which is in a well-maintained complex. The burgundy-painted timber-frame houses are bright.



The temple is at the exit, but unfortunately, it’s closed. I wave to a monk, who shakes his head—too bad. The exterior has beautiful frescoes that look like a comic strip.



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