Which Cape Verde islands should we prioritize (for hiking and swimming) for a first trip?

Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming? Thanks

Hi there, There are plenty of travel journals and descriptions of the different Cape Verde islands on this forum, especially those by P’tite tortue, who now lives on Santo Antão.

Take the time to read them to get your own idea.

For a 20-day trip, don’t try to do too much—the inter-island connections can sometimes be unreliable.

Hi Nicolas, In 20 days, I think you can visit 2-3 islands—4 max, depending on which ones. Otherwise, it’ll quickly turn into a rush, and inter-island transfers are always a bit of an issue. I actually just posted a new discussion about inter-island flights, now operated (starting late March) by the airline CV SKY. You can take a look to run some simulations and help with planning.

Otherwise, for your question: São Vicente + Santo Antão is a great combo for beaches/culture/markets on SV and hiking/nature/breathtaking landscapes/authenticity on SA.

If you visit more islands, I’d recommend the Multi-City option for international flights—arriving on one island and departing from another. For example, you could then head to Sal or Boa Vista, which are more touristy but great for relaxation and beaches (3-4 days max). Otherwise, consider Santiago and then Fogo (if flights and timing allow) for its volcano and the incredible atmosphere at its base. Marie

Hi there, To add to the great info shared above, if you're heading to Sal for its beaches and lively nightlife, keep in mind that this island is more expensive than the others (both for accommodation and food). Some of the beaches on São Vicente are just as beautiful and, above all, wilder than those on Sal. In 20 days, I think you can visit 4 islands, but spend a good week on Santo Antão for the amazing hikes, and keep 2 or 3 nights in Tarrafal de Monte Trigo by the very peaceful beach... Stay at Mar Tranquilidade (great location and good food).

Hi Nicolas, For a first trip to Cape Verde with hiking and swimming, I’d really recommend the combo Santo Antão + São Vicente. The inter-island connections are the main challenge when you’re short on time. The São Vicente - Santo Antão route is the shortest and most reliable. Santo Antão is a gem for hiking. The coastal trail between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol is absolutely magical: turquoise sea below, villages clinging to the cliffs, raw landscapes. It’s one of those places where you walk as much for the scenery as for the encounters. And what about the Paul Valley! Then I’d spend a few days in São Vicente, around Mindelo. The vibe there is more cultural and lively, and you can swim at São Pedro — with the bonus of being able to swim with turtles while respecting their environment (a truly powerful experience if done with a responsible guide). I think for a first trip, this gives a great balance: spectacular nature, local immersion, and sea moments.

If you arrive via Praia, you could also dedicate a few days to the island of Santiago. There are hikes to do — they’re a bit more physical — the Cidade Velha to visit, and also the town of Tarrafal, which has a beautiful beach. It’s a way to optimize your travels while enjoying the diversity of the islands. If this helps, I’ve detailed these experiences on my blog Noirenvoyage (hiking, turtles, Mindelo vibe) with practical tips for planning a smooth and sustainable itinerary.

Thanks for your tips! We’re planning to visit Santiago, São Vicente, Santo Antão, and Boa Vista to finish.

Thanks everyone for your advice! For getting around within the islands, should I prioritize renting a car or using taxis?

you can swim at São Pedro — and on top of that, you’ve got the chance to swim with turtles while respecting their environment (a truly powerful moment if done with a responsible guide).

This trend of swimming with dolphins, whale sharks, orcas, turtles, and so on is becoming pretty common worldwide... Sure, it’s always better than seeing them splashing around in an aquarium or dolphinarium, but when people say it’s "done in respect of their environment," I have to admit I’m skeptical—especially based on what I’ve seen just by staying quietly on the beach. I’m no marine wildlife expert, but turtles, just like whales (for example), don’t hang around 150 meters from the same beach all year unless they’re being fed or their natural behavior is being artificially altered. They can travel thousands of kilometers before returning to the same spot to lay their eggs... So why does this "activity" always take place in the same spot and in every season? I’d love to hear an explanation.

As for saying it's done "In respect of their environment," I have to doubt that, especially based on what I saw while quietly staying on the beach.

Totally agree with you—swimming with turtles in São Pedro is anything but respectful to their environment 🐢 First, because turtles are primarily herbivores, and they’re feeding them fish. And second, because they’re actually becoming sedentary on this beach, which is completely against their "environment." There’s even an ongoing study on this beach (some turtles are fitted with GPS).

So, you can want to swim with turtles in São Pedro—I respect everyone’s choices, I’ve done it and I own that—but let’s not claim it’s done in respect of their environment.

Hi there, In my opinion, one island is too many, especially since they're quite far apart, so you end up spending a lot of time on transfers. If you do a quick calculation—20 days divided by 4 islands—that’s barely 5 days per island, not even counting the transfer days, which are often "lost" days. Something to think about. Try simulating the flights on the CV SKY website to see what it actually looks like. Marie

Regarding car rental: Pretty easy on São Vicente or Santiago. Less straightforward on Santo Antão, where I’d rather leave it to local drivers. Especially since few hikes are loops, making it tricky to retrieve the vehicle. You can do some transfers by shared taxis and others privately. Marie

Thanks! In the end, we’re going to visit São Vicente (3 days), Santo Antão (8 days), then Sal (1 or 2 days) and Boa Vista, 7 days for those two islands. The trip will be 18 days instead of 19.

We’d like to head straight to Santo Antão, but our flight arrives at 11:30 AM. Do you think we’ll be able to catch a ferry the same day to Santo Antão?

Thanks.

Hello, I’m not a die-hard fan of renting cars—in fact, I didn’t rent one—but I think on Santo Antão it might be worth considering if you’re not doing (and most people aren’t) a multi-day trekking trip with a big backpack. The roads are in good condition, and a car can get you almost anywhere. It could be really useful for those doing short hikes combined with various sightseeing trips. I’m not sure you’d save much on transport costs by taking taxis and *collectivos* instead—transport still added up for me, moving bags between guesthouses and hotels, and sometimes we still needed a taxi to reach the start of certain hikes. Taxis aren’t cheap in Cape Verde, and *collectivos* can be slow and a bit of a hassle—not always the most practical option.

PS: Contrary to what was mentioned above, we did several loop hikes, both short and long, with significant elevation gain...

For the Mindelo/Porto Novo ferry, at least two companies operate the crossing. There are two in the morning at 7 AM and 8 AM, and at least one other crossing in the afternoon. Petitortue probably knows the names of the companies—I’ve forgotten—and you can book a few days in advance on their websites. Arrive about 45 minutes before departure time; they’re usually on time.

Thanks, in the end we’re going to do São Vicente (3 days), Santo Antão (8 days), then Sal (1 or 2 days) and Boa Vista—7 days for those two islands. The trip will be 18 days instead of 19. We’d like to go straight to Santo Antão, but our flight arrives at 11:30 AM. Do you think we’ll be able to catch a ferry the same day for Santo Antão? Thanks.

Hi! You mean these *four* islands, right? Personally, I’d drop either Sal or Boa Vista and keep just one of them. There’s not much point in spending 1–2 days on Sal, really. But hey, that’s just my opinion. On weekdays (Sundays can sometimes vary depending on the season), the afternoon ferries leave at 2 PM or 3 PM, so if everything goes smoothly, you should be able to catch one to Santo Antão. Still, I’d recommend booking accommodation with free cancellation or low fees—just in case. That said, you could also start with 1–2 days in São Vicente to avoid rushing or stressing right off the bat if there’s a delay, for example. There are two ferry companies, and you can buy tickets on their websites or on the spot: Nôs Ferry and CV Interilhas. Marie

Hello, Indeed, and I never said otherwise—there are hikes you can do in loops. Not the majority, but they exist, that’s for sure. But honestly, it’s not really my thing. I like the idea of moving forward while walking. That must be why I underestimate the loop hikes around here—my bad!!! 😉 As for renting a car in Santo Antão, it’s definitely possible and practical for some, I’m sure. But I’ll admit, I’ve white-knuckled it more than once on some of the roads here in certain conditions. And yet, I’m from the mountains and have driven a lot in the mountains, in snow, and in bad conditions, etc... but with the narrow roads and vehicles passing on steep slopes with a drop right next to you, I’ve felt, let’s say... at the very least... not exactly comfortable!! ;O)))) But there are more and more rental agencies now. Fifteen years ago, that didn’t exist in Santo Antão....

Not much point in going to Sal for just 1-2 days, really. But hey, that’s just my opinion.

We stayed there for 2 days just in case we missed our return flight to Marseille—otherwise, 1 day would’ve been enough. @Tchoucoule: It might be worth staying at Lafayette Alojamentos in Espargos, run by Candida, a super-friendly woman who showed us around the island and took us to a great seaside restaurant for dinner.

There’s not much point in spending 1–2 days on Sal, really. But hey, that’s just my opinion.

We stayed there for 2 days because we were worried about missing our return flight to Marseille—otherwise, 1 day would’ve been enough. @Tchoucoule: It might be worth staying at Lafayette Alojamentos in Espargos, run by Candida, a super-friendly woman who showed us around the island and took us to a great seaside restaurant for dinner.

No, I meant it’s not really worth it for just 1–2 days if you’re only stopping by, given the transfers, especially if you’re spending 7 days in BV afterward. Otherwise, Sal is nice to visit, and 1–2 days is fine if it’s for a layover. I was actually pleasantly surprised by Sal, and you can also get away from the main tourist crowds a bit.

We’ll only spend 1 or 2 days in Sal due to a transfer, and we’d like to spend more time in Boavista.

Yes, that’s 4 islands in 19 days

We’re thinking of spending 3 nights in Tarrafal (2 or 3 days), 3 nights around Paul, and 3 nights near Ponta do Sol. Is it easy to find guides or taxis day-to-day for hikes that aren’t loops? Do hotels offer that kind of service?

Since we won’t be doing the Monte Trigo hike, maybe we could spend one fewer night in Tarrafal?

What do you think?