Which Cape Verde islands should we prioritize (for hiking and swimming) for a first trip?
by Tchoucoule
Translated into English.
Original post
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi there,
There are plenty of travel journals and descriptions of the different Cape Verde islands on this forum, especially those by P’tite tortue, who now lives on Santo Antão.
Take the time to read them to get your own idea.
For a 20-day trip, don’t try to do too much—the inter-island connections can sometimes be unreliable.
Take the time to read them to get your own idea.
For a 20-day trip, don’t try to do too much—the inter-island connections can sometimes be unreliable.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Hi Nicolas,
In 20 days, I think you can visit 2-3 islands—4 max, depending on which ones. Otherwise, it’ll quickly turn into a rush, and inter-island transfers are always a bit of an issue. I actually just posted a new discussion about inter-island flights, now operated (starting late March) by the airline CV SKY. You can take a look to run some simulations and help with planning.
Otherwise, for your question: São Vicente + Santo Antão is a great combo for beaches/culture/markets on SV and hiking/nature/breathtaking landscapes/authenticity on SA.
If you visit more islands, I’d recommend the Multi-City option for international flights—arriving on one island and departing from another. For example, you could then head to Sal or Boa Vista, which are more touristy but great for relaxation and beaches (3-4 days max). Otherwise, consider Santiago and then Fogo (if flights and timing allow) for its volcano and the incredible atmosphere at its base. Marie
Otherwise, for your question: São Vicente + Santo Antão is a great combo for beaches/culture/markets on SV and hiking/nature/breathtaking landscapes/authenticity on SA.
If you visit more islands, I’d recommend the Multi-City option for international flights—arriving on one island and departing from another. For example, you could then head to Sal or Boa Vista, which are more touristy but great for relaxation and beaches (3-4 days max). Otherwise, consider Santiago and then Fogo (if flights and timing allow) for its volcano and the incredible atmosphere at its base. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hi there,
To add to the great info shared above, if you're heading to Sal for its beaches and lively nightlife, keep in mind that this island is more expensive than the others (both for accommodation and food). Some of the beaches on São Vicente are just as beautiful and, above all, wilder than those on Sal.
In 20 days, I think you can visit 4 islands, but spend a good week on Santo Antão for the amazing hikes, and keep 2 or 3 nights in Tarrafal de Monte Trigo by the very peaceful beach... Stay at Mar Tranquilidade (great location and good food).
Hi Nicolas,
For a first trip to Cape Verde with hiking and swimming, I’d really recommend the combo Santo Antão + São Vicente. The inter-island connections are the main challenge when you’re short on time. The São Vicente - Santo Antão route is the shortest and most reliable.
Santo Antão is a gem for hiking. The coastal trail between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol is absolutely magical: turquoise sea below, villages clinging to the cliffs, raw landscapes. It’s one of those places where you walk as much for the scenery as for the encounters.
And what about the Paul Valley!
Then I’d spend a few days in São Vicente, around Mindelo. The vibe there is more cultural and lively, and you can swim at São Pedro — with the bonus of being able to swim with turtles while respecting their environment (a truly powerful experience if done with a responsible guide).
I think for a first trip, this gives a great balance: spectacular nature, local immersion, and sea moments.
If you arrive via Praia, you could also dedicate a few days to the island of Santiago. There are hikes to do — they’re a bit more physical — the Cidade Velha to visit, and also the town of Tarrafal, which has a beautiful beach. It’s a way to optimize your travels while enjoying the diversity of the islands. If this helps, I’ve detailed these experiences on my blog Noirenvoyage (hiking, turtles, Mindelo vibe) with practical tips for planning a smooth and sustainable itinerary.
If you arrive via Praia, you could also dedicate a few days to the island of Santiago. There are hikes to do — they’re a bit more physical — the Cidade Velha to visit, and also the town of Tarrafal, which has a beautiful beach. It’s a way to optimize your travels while enjoying the diversity of the islands. If this helps, I’ve detailed these experiences on my blog Noirenvoyage (hiking, turtles, Mindelo vibe) with practical tips for planning a smooth and sustainable itinerary.
Voyager Autrement est Possible
Un Voyage à votre image
Voyages en immersion et éco-responsables
Thanks for your tips! We’re planning to visit Santiago, São Vicente, Santo Antão, and Boa Vista to finish.
Thanks everyone for your advice! For getting around within the islands, should I prioritize renting a car or using taxis?
you can swim at São Pedro — and on top of that, you’ve got the chance to swim with turtles
while respecting their environment (a truly powerful moment if done with a responsible guide).
This trend of swimming with dolphins, whale sharks, orcas, turtles, and so on is becoming pretty common worldwide... Sure, it’s always better than seeing them splashing around in an aquarium or dolphinarium, but when people say it’s "done in respect of their environment," I have to admit I’m skeptical—especially based on what I’ve seen just by staying quietly on the beach. I’m no marine wildlife expert, but turtles, just like whales (for example), don’t hang around 150 meters from the same beach all year unless they’re being fed or their natural behavior is being artificially altered. They can travel thousands of kilometers before returning to the same spot to lay their eggs... So why does this "activity" always take place in the same spot and in every season? I’d love to hear an explanation.
This trend of swimming with dolphins, whale sharks, orcas, turtles, and so on is becoming pretty common worldwide... Sure, it’s always better than seeing them splashing around in an aquarium or dolphinarium, but when people say it’s "done in respect of their environment," I have to admit I’m skeptical—especially based on what I’ve seen just by staying quietly on the beach. I’m no marine wildlife expert, but turtles, just like whales (for example), don’t hang around 150 meters from the same beach all year unless they’re being fed or their natural behavior is being artificially altered. They can travel thousands of kilometers before returning to the same spot to lay their eggs... So why does this "activity" always take place in the same spot and in every season? I’d love to hear an explanation.
As for saying it's done "In respect of their environment," I have to doubt that, especially based on what I saw while quietly staying on the beach.
Totally agree with you—swimming with turtles in São Pedro is anything but respectful to their environment 🐢 First, because turtles are primarily herbivores, and they’re feeding them fish. And second, because they’re actually becoming sedentary on this beach, which is completely against their "environment." There’s even an ongoing study on this beach (some turtles are fitted with GPS).
So, you can want to swim with turtles in São Pedro—I respect everyone’s choices, I’ve done it and I own that—but let’s not claim it’s done in respect of their environment.
Totally agree with you—swimming with turtles in São Pedro is anything but respectful to their environment 🐢 First, because turtles are primarily herbivores, and they’re feeding them fish. And second, because they’re actually becoming sedentary on this beach, which is completely against their "environment." There’s even an ongoing study on this beach (some turtles are fitted with GPS).
So, you can want to swim with turtles in São Pedro—I respect everyone’s choices, I’ve done it and I own that—but let’s not claim it’s done in respect of their environment.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Hi there,
In my opinion, one island is too many, especially since they're quite far apart, so you end up spending a lot of time on transfers. If you do a quick calculation—20 days divided by 4 islands—that’s barely 5 days per island, not even counting the transfer days, which are often "lost" days.
Something to think about.
Try simulating the flights on the CV SKY website to see what it actually looks like.
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Regarding car rental:
Pretty easy on São Vicente or Santiago.
Less straightforward on Santo Antão, where I’d rather leave it to local drivers. Especially since few hikes are loops, making it tricky to retrieve the vehicle. You can do some transfers by shared taxis and others privately.
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Thanks! In the end, we’re going to visit São Vicente (3 days), Santo Antão (8 days), then Sal (1 or 2 days) and Boa Vista, 7 days for those two islands. The trip will be 18 days instead of 19.
We’d like to head straight to Santo Antão, but our flight arrives at 11:30 AM. Do you think we’ll be able to catch a ferry the same day to Santo Antão?
Thanks.
We’d like to head straight to Santo Antão, but our flight arrives at 11:30 AM. Do you think we’ll be able to catch a ferry the same day to Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Hello,
I’m not a die-hard fan of renting cars—in fact, I didn’t rent one—but I think on Santo Antão it might be worth considering if you’re not doing (and most people aren’t) a multi-day trekking trip with a big backpack. The roads are in good condition, and a car can get you almost anywhere. It could be really useful for those doing short hikes combined with various sightseeing trips. I’m not sure you’d save much on transport costs by taking taxis and *collectivos* instead—transport still added up for me, moving bags between guesthouses and hotels, and sometimes we still needed a taxi to reach the start of certain hikes. Taxis aren’t cheap in Cape Verde, and *collectivos* can be slow and a bit of a hassle—not always the most practical option.
PS: Contrary to what was mentioned above, we did several loop hikes, both short and long, with significant elevation gain...
PS: Contrary to what was mentioned above, we did several loop hikes, both short and long, with significant elevation gain...
For the Mindelo/Porto Novo ferry, at least two companies operate the crossing.
There are two in the morning at 7 AM and 8 AM, and at least one other crossing in the afternoon. Petitortue probably knows the names of the companies—I’ve forgotten—and you can book a few days in advance on their websites. Arrive about 45 minutes before departure time; they’re usually on time.
Thanks, in the end we’re going to do São Vicente (3 days), Santo Antão (8 days), then Sal (1 or 2 days) and Boa Vista—7 days for those two islands. The trip will be 18 days instead of 19.
We’d like to go straight to Santo Antão, but our flight arrives at 11:30 AM. Do you think we’ll be able to catch a ferry the same day for Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Hi! You mean these *four* islands, right? Personally, I’d drop either Sal or Boa Vista and keep just one of them. There’s not much point in spending 1–2 days on Sal, really. But hey, that’s just my opinion. On weekdays (Sundays can sometimes vary depending on the season), the afternoon ferries leave at 2 PM or 3 PM, so if everything goes smoothly, you should be able to catch one to Santo Antão. Still, I’d recommend booking accommodation with free cancellation or low fees—just in case. That said, you could also start with 1–2 days in São Vicente to avoid rushing or stressing right off the bat if there’s a delay, for example. There are two ferry companies, and you can buy tickets on their websites or on the spot: Nôs Ferry and CV Interilhas. Marie
Hi! You mean these *four* islands, right? Personally, I’d drop either Sal or Boa Vista and keep just one of them. There’s not much point in spending 1–2 days on Sal, really. But hey, that’s just my opinion. On weekdays (Sundays can sometimes vary depending on the season), the afternoon ferries leave at 2 PM or 3 PM, so if everything goes smoothly, you should be able to catch one to Santo Antão. Still, I’d recommend booking accommodation with free cancellation or low fees—just in case. That said, you could also start with 1–2 days in São Vicente to avoid rushing or stressing right off the bat if there’s a delay, for example. There are two ferry companies, and you can buy tickets on their websites or on the spot: Nôs Ferry and CV Interilhas. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hello,
Indeed, and I never said otherwise—there are hikes you can do in loops. Not the majority, but they exist, that’s for sure. But honestly, it’s not really my thing. I like the idea of moving forward while walking. That must be why I underestimate the loop hikes around here—my bad!!! 😉
As for renting a car in Santo Antão, it’s definitely possible and practical for some, I’m sure. But I’ll admit, I’ve white-knuckled it more than once on some of the roads here in certain conditions. And yet, I’m from the mountains and have driven a lot in the mountains, in snow, and in bad conditions, etc... but with the narrow roads and vehicles passing on steep slopes with a drop right next to you, I’ve felt, let’s say... at the very least... not exactly comfortable!! ;O))))
But there are more and more rental agencies now. Fifteen years ago, that didn’t exist in Santo Antão....
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Not much point in going to Sal for just 1-2 days, really. But hey, that’s just my opinion.
We stayed there for 2 days just in case we missed our return flight to Marseille—otherwise, 1 day would’ve been enough. @Tchoucoule: It might be worth staying at Lafayette Alojamentos in Espargos, run by Candida, a super-friendly woman who showed us around the island and took us to a great seaside restaurant for dinner.
We stayed there for 2 days just in case we missed our return flight to Marseille—otherwise, 1 day would’ve been enough. @Tchoucoule: It might be worth staying at Lafayette Alojamentos in Espargos, run by Candida, a super-friendly woman who showed us around the island and took us to a great seaside restaurant for dinner.
There’s not much point in spending 1–2 days on Sal, really. But hey, that’s just my opinion.
We stayed there for 2 days because we were worried about missing our return flight to Marseille—otherwise, 1 day would’ve been enough. @Tchoucoule: It might be worth staying at Lafayette Alojamentos in Espargos, run by Candida, a super-friendly woman who showed us around the island and took us to a great seaside restaurant for dinner.
No, I meant it’s not really worth it for just 1–2 days if you’re only stopping by, given the transfers, especially if you’re spending 7 days in BV afterward. Otherwise, Sal is nice to visit, and 1–2 days is fine if it’s for a layover. I was actually pleasantly surprised by Sal, and you can also get away from the main tourist crowds a bit.
We stayed there for 2 days because we were worried about missing our return flight to Marseille—otherwise, 1 day would’ve been enough. @Tchoucoule: It might be worth staying at Lafayette Alojamentos in Espargos, run by Candida, a super-friendly woman who showed us around the island and took us to a great seaside restaurant for dinner.
No, I meant it’s not really worth it for just 1–2 days if you’re only stopping by, given the transfers, especially if you’re spending 7 days in BV afterward. Otherwise, Sal is nice to visit, and 1–2 days is fine if it’s for a layover. I was actually pleasantly surprised by Sal, and you can also get away from the main tourist crowds a bit.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
We’ll only spend 1 or 2 days in Sal due to a transfer, and we’d like to spend more time in Boavista.
Yes, that’s 4 islands in 19 days
We’re thinking of spending 3 nights in Tarrafal (2 or 3 days), 3 nights around Paul, and 3 nights near Ponta do Sol. Is it easy to find guides or taxis day-to-day for hikes that aren’t loops? Do hotels offer that kind of service?
Since we won’t be doing the Monte Trigo hike, maybe we could spend one fewer night in Tarrafal?
What do you think?
Since we won’t be doing the Monte Trigo hike, maybe we could spend one fewer night in Tarrafal?
What do you think?
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Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Hi
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there,
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Hello,
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
Hi,
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
Hi everyone,
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!






