Densha Otaku - Lesser-Known Regions

Autumn 2025 marks my 11th trip to Japan. I’ve neglected the south for too long, so like last year, it’s my main destination again.

We’ll revisit some familiar spots, but of course, we’ll also try plenty of new things. This trip feels a bit strange—no more of that initial magic, but on the other hand, we’ve really explored some off-the-beaten-path and private locations. The variety of regions, landscapes, and vehicles I’ve photographed is pretty remarkable. In search of vintage trains and threatened lines, I think my future trips will follow the same vibe.

After the 2017 and 2024 travel journals, it’s time to dive into Japan’s lesser-known side—all by public transport, of course. Day 1, arrival in Tokyo

The timing won’t be like other years since we arrive at Narita in the mid-afternoon after a layover in Hong Kong.

The only real mission for this afternoon is picking up tickets for the next day. And already, the first travel stress: I’ll have to rewrite the entire day because the Revaty Kinu 109 to Kinugawaonsen is fully booked, just like all the morning trains. So instead of a relaxed start exploring Ueno, I’m back to scrutinizing schedules. I manage to snag something last-minute after struggling for hours. Then, I wait for a message from Seiichi to meet up for dinner. Meeting friends on the first day and staying up late with jet lag—like I said, this trip isn’t like the others.

A great evening at a place I love.

So on this first morning, nothing goes according to our initial itinerary. And even what I’d replanned the night before didn’t pan out. In the end, it wasn’t such a bad thing—we discovered things we wouldn’t have tried otherwise. But for a first day, we could’ve done without a bit of that stress.



In the end, it’ll be Ueno – Utsunomiya – Nikko JR. First leg by shinkansen to Utsunomiya. A friend asks if we have time to take photos of the shinkansen. I glance quickly at the scribbled schedule on a scrap of paper and tell him yes, of course. Later, we realize I mixed up the lines, miss the connection, and have to improvise all over again. So even after spending so much time in Japan, we still manage to get our wires crossed.

At least the weather’s nice. And taking photos of shinkansen isn’t as easy as it sounds. Usually, the station and track architecture make it hard to get good shots. Here, the sun’s in a decent position, and there’s almost no one around to block the view. We take advantage of it.





Anyway, we had to get to Nikko, so off we go—we’ll figure out the rest later.



Then we head on foot toward Tobu Nikko, just a few hundred meters away.

In the station square, there’s an old Nikko tram engine on display as a monument. After a second career in Okayama, it returned to its hometown. Looking at the archive photos, the line must’ve been really charming. Unfortunately, exposed to the elements without any shelter, it’s already showing signs of rust.

The plan was to go from Kinugawa Onsen to Aizu-Tajima, then to Aizu-Wakamatsu to stay overnight and visit the castle. When we went to get information at the ticket counters, we saw a special steam locomotive train announced on the departure board. Anyway, given the time, visiting the castle was already out of the question, so we might as well try the steam train and make the most of it. Like all the steam trains running in Japan, it's pretty but more for tourists and families than for reliving a bygone-era journey. There you go, we did it. It wasn't unpleasant, but there's no denying it's too touristy.









Connection with the Yagan Railway

Then the Aizu Railway



We arrive in Aizu-Wakamatsu as night is almost falling.



This time, it's time to rest—the train tomorrow morning leaves at 6 a.m.

Off we go for a morning on the Tadami Line. A stunning mountain railway I’d already ridden back in 2008. Since then, it had endured years of closure due to severe weather and was only miraculously reopened the previous year. Locals and artists rallied to save it, and the media coverage brought in a flood of visitors. Of course, that’s great for the line—but not so great for photography, since there’s always someone lingering in the frame.















For the route we want to take, connections at Koide are terrible. Plus, Koide itself is a bit of a backwater—the station’s a long way from town, so walking isn’t really an option. In short, we’ve got a few hours to kill. Let’s start by exploring the station area and look for somewhere to grab a coffee. We end up in a tiny place run by an elderly woman. At first, she’s a little hesitant about three foreigners walking into her shop, but after a few bows, some polite gestures, and a smartphone translator, we manage to get our coffee. Other customers come in and order food, so we decide to do the same. It turns into a fantastic experience and a throwback to the Japan I first discovered 33 years ago.

Next up is Echigo-Kawaguchi – Echigo-Kawaguchi – Nagano – Tsuruga. First by kiha 110, then by 112, and finally by shinkansen for the last segment.

Today, it's a bit of train travel and a bit of sightseeing. Actually, more sightseeing than train travel! On the way to Izumoshi, we're visiting Amanohashidate.

To get there, it's Tsuruga - Higashi-Maizuru - Nishi-Maizuru (7-minute trip and an illogical transfer that costs an hour) - Amanohashidate.









An afternoon of exploring, strolling, temples, and boats.

Then continuing the journey with the LTD EXP on the Kyoto Tango Railway to Fukuchiyama.









Next up, heading to Izumoshi via Kinosakionsen – Hamasaka - Tottori. It’s familiar territory, but mostly in the dark this time. Not the most interesting part, but you’ve got to keep moving.



When I see "Sunrise" on the display, I realize I’d forgotten about that one. It’s still a beautiful train, and especially the last overnight service.

Another day riding lines I’ve already done. But what a line, what an atmosphere! A stunning route through the mountains. That said, there were quite a few people on board, mostly tourists. We’re not complaining—it’s good for the line’s survival—but once again, it’s so much easier when there aren’t too many passengers. We start just 200m from our hotel at Izumoshi’s Ichibata Station. Since we’ve got time this morning, we’ll make a little detour via Matsue.









Transfer at Shinji

Then the Kisuki Line







Transfer at Bingo-Ochiai

Then Niimi before heading back down to the plains of Okayama.

Another day packed with unexpected twists, but with an excellent surprise. In the morning, we visited the trams in Okayama. Not much has changed since our last visit, so it should have been quick, but since the weather is really nice, we decided to take as many good photos as possible. The first surprise came when we stopped by the depot—a driver was putting the motorcar called ‘Kuro’ into service, an old motorcar originally from Nikko. I would’ve preferred the other one that kept its original color and layout, but it’s still pretty cool. We thought we’d wait to see if it would come out. And sure enough, a classic motorcar arrived at its usual terminus, dropped off its passengers, and continued on the line to return to the depot. A few moments later, Kuro came out and took its place at the departure stop. We boarded. But wait—what day is it? November 3rd, Culture Day. That’s why they brought out this unusual vehicle. It’s also why the trams are free today.

Okay, Okayama is done—what now? Tonight we need to be in Matsuyama, but until then, I’d love to check out a line I partly rode during my first trip. One of those things you didn’t know existed but wanted to try anyway, just to see. Back then, it was running with really old railcars from the Series 20. But what’s the deal now? Off to Kurashiki and the Mizushima Rinkai Railway.







The railcars are way more modern now, there are quite a few travelers, and we’re heading toward the port and the industries. Then, in a totally unphotographable angle and full backlight, a KiHa 30 and two Series 20s appear. That’s some luck—but why are they out? Are they still running today? Anyway, the depot’s at the end of the line, and that’s our destination. We’ll see when we get there.





At the station, there’s a big crowd. Buses are waiting to take travelers somewhere—we’re not quite sure where. Eventually, we figure out it’s organized tours by a steelworks in the port. Too bad, you had to book in advance—it’s fully booked. We love trains, but we also love heavy industry. With so many people on the platform, the railway company sent staff to guide and inform travelers. We try our luck to get the schedule for the railcars we saw earlier. It’s not gonna be easy—no one in the company speaks English. Plus, they’ll probably wonder what foreigners are doing off the beaten path and why we care about a specific railcar’s schedule. They’ll likely just point us to the next departing train. Some days, though, you get lucky. They understand what we want—well, sort of—and scribble キハ 30 with terrible handwriting on a scrap of paper. Then they pull out the full timetable for the line. Stuff most travelers wouldn’t understand, have never seen, and couldn’t interpret. But for us? No problem. Between the one who works for Belgian railways and the other two who’ve spent a good chunk of their lives on trains in the most unexpected places around the world, reading a timetable is the bare minimum.

So, photos first, then back to Kurashiki with the museum railcar pairing.

The Yosan Line to Matsuyama will be in the dark after crossing the Great Seto Bridge over the Inland Sea, but that’s no big deal—it’s a classic route you could take every day if you wanted.

Spent the whole day in Matsuyama. Already done it before, but we're going to approach it differently this time. We'll set off pretty early and change locations often to make the most of the sunlight for photos, especially at the depot, which is impossible to photograph in the afternoon. The company that operates Matsuyama's urban transport is Iyotetsu. But it's also a local railway company. The train depot and the tram depot are in the same place. The lines cross at street level at the exit, and the interaction between train and tram is something really interesting to photograph.

The most interesting tram line in the area is the circular line, especially the section where it runs on its own right-of-way between the houses.

A stop at Dogo Onsen, a visit to the castle that we had to cut short because of closing time, then back to Dogo to eat and take some night photos of the onsen.

Not too tired, we figure we’ll head back to the hotel on the loop line in the evening—light traffic, not too many passengers. If we wait for an old motorcar and get lucky with a driver who likes to push the last notch on the controller, it should be fun. The old motorcars with small numbers aren’t speed-limited like the newer ones, and they’ve got a really nice engine sound. Unfortunately, we don’t always get that lucky. A nervous, inexperienced driver, almost unsure of himself and his movements. I would’ve loved to take his place—my left hand was itching to do it.

Here we go for a crazy day. A day where I copied kanji into my schedule so I could find my way or ask passersby for directions if needed.

Departure from Matsuyama on the Yosan Line and stop at Yawatahama. Here too, it feels like stepping back in time.







Now, head to the station square and find the right bus on the right platform. Nothing in romaji—back to my early experiences.





Get off at the port and take the boat—it’s well-organized and modern. No problem.





After a 2-hour-50-minute ride, we arrive at Beppu Kokusai Kanko. A 10-minute walk (why doesn’t the bus go to the port?) and we take the bus to the hells. Umijigoku mae—quite a few people get off, just follow them.

Tonight, we’re staying in Oita—bus and train, but we’re heading there in a light rain.

Simple plan for the day: leave Oita, head to Mount Aso, and stay in Kumamoto. We’re not feeling super motivated this morning, so we sit in the second car with our reserved seats. Too bad, because we could’ve gone to the front for a view of the driver’s cabin. The line was supposed to be interesting and scenic.

We get off at Aso to take the bus up to the volcano.

This was kind of the highlight of the day, but it didn’t quite work out. Access to the crater is closed due to toxic fumes. No luck, but we’ll still go as far as we can. The landscape is amazing. Still a shame about the crater, though.









Back at Aso Station, we continue along the line to the Tateno switchback.

Tateno is also the starting point of the Minami Aso Railway line. This line was never completed—it was meant to reach Nobeoka but is now operated by a regional company as far as Takamori. It’s not uncommon for late-construction rail lines to begin with the easiest sections. The most difficult parts, often already underway, were abandoned when priorities shifted and continuing such a costly project no longer made economic sense.

The area is really pleasant, with quite a few travelers (often tourists). The infrastructure and stations are in great condition, and the rolling stock is almost new. That’s because the line was recently reactivated after significant damage from the 2016 earthquake.













Later in the day, the trip continues to Kumamoto.

Kumamoto today.

A few updates on the tram scene. Among other things, an interesting new articulated three-car tram.











One that won’t be running anymore—it was recently retired. It originally came from Kitakyushu.





Then we head to the Kumaden depot.

A pleasant surprise—the old railcar that was in bad shape in a corner of the depot has been restored, at least on the outside. Walking around the depot, we find it beautifully positioned in the sun. The green "frog" isn’t in bad condition either.













Back to Kami Kumamoto and then to the station.





We arrive at the station during rush hour. An impressive line is waiting to board the tram. We watch for a bit to see how things unfold and how they’ll handle the crowd.



To our amazement, a few extra trams and the new three-car railcar clear the line in 20 minutes. Efficient organization!

Today was an interesting day in more ways than one. We're going to places where there are never any non-Japanese tourists.

When I plan a trip, I send my itinerary to our best contact in Tokyo. He forwards it to his acquaintances all over the country. And it's not the first time someone has reached out saying they want to meet us or help us visit certain places. For today, it's Yasuto, the owner of the miniature railway company One Mile, who's going to accompany us.

Since the 2000s, I've been following the news of the industrial railway company in the Omuta region. A large coal network that was reduced to serving a chemical plant until it disappeared in 2022. It's quite remarkable that all the surviving locomotives from that era have found a new home, been restored, and are stored under cover. Mindsets are slowly changing, and that's a good thing this time.



The first place to visit is the Manda extraction pit in Arao. The mine is now a museum, and a shelter has been built along the former railway line that used to transport the coal. There are only 50 meters of track, but thanks to a battery-powered wagon, the smaller of the two locomotives can move a few meters without needing overhead wires. Note that the battery wagon isn't an amateur DIY job—it was created to serve the chemical plant. So, it's perfectly historical and representative of a certain era in the locomotive's life. That's also great because I hate it when museum vehicles are modified or misrepresented.

Second place to visit: Kilometer 0. Historically, this is where the line started and where coal was loaded onto boats. Nothing remains to recall that era, but it was here that they decided to build a small museum. The electric locomotives are static, but the yellow shunter does demonstrations.





Then we continue on foot, take the Nishitetsu train, another Nishitetsu train, and a bus to get near Chikuzen-Yamae Station. There, Yasuto has personally preserved some vehicles. I’m not sure what to think about this initiative. If he hadn’t done it, these vehicles would have been destroyed. But stored in precarious conditions, they’re slowly deteriorating. The most troubling part is that he wants to buy the neighboring land to save more vehicles, while that money could be invested in building a shelter and later restoring some of the vehicles. It’s the same problem in museums worldwide: time, money, space, and making reasonable choices.

Yet, it’s certain there are still some beautiful pieces that could be saved.







Then everyone goes their own way. For us tonight, it’ll be toward our hotel in Karatsu.

There are places to visit that we always put off. Today, we're heading to the Matsuura Railway. It's been easily 10 years that I've been telling myself I should go there.

As often happens, a first visit gives you a glimpse, but you'd need a second trip to really explore.

I would've loved to visit the castle, the Takatori residence, and one or two temples, but we didn’t really plan for that. Plus, with the rain...



Departure from Karatsu in the rain.



Then the Matsuura Railway to the Saza depot.





And finally, Sasebo to Nagasaki via the coastal line.



I’ve spotted a few places that I’d love to visit. Something to plan for my next trip.

Nagasaki: I’ve honestly lost count of how many times I’ve been to Nagasaki—probably 4 or 5 by now. Glover Garden, the Atomic Bomb Museum, and Dejima are already checked off. It’s not that we don’t want to do other tourist activities, but either the reviews are mixed or you have to book in advance. Gunkanjima comes to mind, for example.

This year, in addition to wandering around the city, we’re going to try to get into the Urakami tram depot. What a headache, though—and for what result?

Nagasaki still has a great and interesting tram network, with a mix of old and new rolling stock.

In 2025, Nagasaki was celebrating the 110th anniversary of its trams. That’s actually quite young—most places around the world are celebrating their 150th anniversaries these days.

A few weeks before our trip, my friend and colleague from the Thuin museum came up with an idea. Since Nagasaki was celebrating, there must be festivities or events. If we reached out as fellow professionals, maybe we could take part in something. The idea was good, but who do we contact, and how? No one in our network knew. As a last resort, we emailed the address we found on their website. Our request was simple: to visit the depot and see the oldest tram in particular.

Apparently, the email landed with someone who didn’t understand our approach. We were told visits were only allowed for school groups. We replied that wasn’t the point—we explained that we operate vintage trams, run them on an 8km line, and since Nagasaki boasts a workshop with the skills to maintain old vehicles, we wanted to see their methods and how they tackle problems that must partly overlap with ours.

Once our Tokyo friend (who’s also the curator of the Odakyu Railway Museum) heard about our efforts, he decided to join us and travel back to Tokyo with us.

The result? A bare-minimum visit. Clearly, they weren’t interested. We went, we saw a little, but either they didn’t get it or didn’t want to. It’s a bit disheartening to go through all that effort for so little.













A few photos at Akasako, then we headed to the city center for a meal.

At some point, we really need to start thinking about heading back. First, to stay within the validity of our Japan Rail Pass, and then to have a free day in Tokyo for shopping.

What’s the most interesting tram destination between Nagasaki and Tokyo? No question—it’s Hiroshima. Seiichi will be our guide. Even though he hasn’t set foot in the city for a few years, he has a strong connection to the place as a descendant of hibakusha.

Hiroshima is a modern city, but above all, it’s a real rail museum—if you know where to go and when. During the day, it’s a bit monotonous, with mostly modern or semi-old equipment, though some new series add a bit of variety. But in the early morning and late evening, it’s a whole different story. You’d need several days there to see everything.

Let’s start with the new station and the new line leading to it. The urban loop isn’t operational yet at this time.

We head to the main depot just before the start of the evening rush hour. An observation platform has been set up for a better view of the depot.





The 702 waits for its departure time at the street front.

Since the yardmaster is there to give orders to the drivers, we ask him to take a quick look at the departure board. Now we know what to expect and where!

First, let's head to Ujina.





Then Yokogawa, where we wait for the 582. A Type J originally from Kobe, built in 1926 and the oldest tram still in regular service in Japan.





We leave it at Ujinasanchome to grab some okonomiyaki at a very simple but excellent neighborhood restaurant.

Hiroshima day 2, mostly dedicated to the morning rush hour.

Which means getting up early. I’m alone with Seiichi this morning; my two buddies are still in bed.

Meet-up at the station



In a strategic spot to see a bit of everything go by.





A Combino—now that’s modern. Is it interesting? Actually, these vehicles, which are 20 years old, have such serious issues with their body structure and parts availability that they run as little as possible.



One of the 2,650 in regular service. The ultimate iconic vehicle. Built in 1943, they survived the atomic bombing. Depending on the damage they sustained, they were either rebuilt or restored, and they’re part of every commemoration—especially when they cross paths on Aoiobashi at the time of the detonation. Only four remain, with two available for regular service and one for special services.

The 3102 has finished its rush-hour shift and is heading back "out of service" to the Arate depot.



Back to the main depot with the Type J, which has also wrapped up for the morning and is starting its return maneuver.

Next, we head to the Eba depot. We check it out from the outside, but it’s not possible to go in, even after asking. The officer on duty explains that while it used to be allowed, there were thefts (committed by local amateurs), and since then, it’s been off-limits. Seiichi asks us to hand over our business cards with our museum roles, but nothing works. Orders are orders.

The key takeaway, though, is that you can request access in advance by writing. And since we now have a contact there, that’s something to keep in mind for the future.







Then, the Arate depot.





We arrive in the middle of a firefighter exercise, clearly focused on electrical safety.





The other decommissioned Combino trams.



The depot right near the railway line.

While we're at it, we'll push on to Miyajimaguchi.



Then it's a long shinkansen ride back to Tokyo.

A day and an afternoon of shopping in Tokyo, then off to Narita with the Narita Express 45. Japan is done for me, but I’ll still add the last day of the trip for you.

Arrived in Hong Kong at 2 AM, quick pass through controls with no formalities since we’re staying in Hong Kong and our stopover is less than 24 hours. Taking off again at 12:30 AM the next day.

It’s short, but it’s the longest layover I could get without changing the price of the ticket. Pre-booked a ride to our strategically chosen hotel in Tuen Mun, in the New Territories. With so little time, we planned a loop that would bring us back to the airport by evening. The goal: the New Territories tram and the old Hong Kong tram. One line and vehicles that are totally legendary.

I had no idea what to expect, and honestly, I wasn’t disappointed.

After a long stretch on the subway, we finally arrive at Central.





Hoi Foo Street Shau ​Kei Wan

And to finish up, Happy Valley



We only managed to do half of what we wanted, and I’ve since discovered even more things to do. One conclusion: we’ll have to go back. Like I said, it always takes a first visit to really make the most of a return trip.

This wraps up my 11th trip to Japan.

What’s next? We’ll have to wait a bit, but mostly wait for news from Japan. Line closures? Threats of closures? Opening dates for museums? End-of-service date for the last shinkansen 500? We’ll keep an eye on all of that, but it’ll likely be for 2027.

Thanks for reading all the way through to those who are interested in this incredibly special country in their own way.