3 weeks in Laos, stress-free

Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...

This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions... So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted. Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some! Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!

I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!

Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.



In broad strokes, it was very classic:

First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to. From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km! Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites. We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.

A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized. We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line! At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris. You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!

With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter. To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang

So, what about Luang Prabang?



It’s hard not to be charmed. The historic center is compact, so you can wander around, get a little lost (well, sort of—it’s on a grid 😉), all on foot or by bike. There’s plenty to keep you busy for several days if you want to take it slow and ease up on the pace.

Luckily, its UNESCO World Heritage status effectively protects the old town from financial calculations that would lead to tearing down historic buildings to make way for luxury residences. Of course, that doesn’t stop some speculation: in the heart of the historic center, outside the monasteries and pagodas, you’ll find many beautiful old colonial-style houses, renovated into restaurants, shops, or upscale guesthouses—but always respecting the original buildings. And as soon as you step into the side streets, you’re quickly immersed in "real life," with the local population.

But enough chit-chat. On the afternoon of our first day in Luang Prabang, a bit jet-lagged from the trip, we settled in (we’d be staying for 7 nights) and allowed ourselves a controlled nap of about an hour. After grabbing a drink in the garden, we left the hotel as the light started to fade. We walked past the monastery next door (hello, little monks)...

and were immediately immersed in the atmosphere.



We knew we wouldn’t last long that evening, so we headed toward the night market—just a 15-minute walk from our hotel. We wandered through a few small streets where vendors were already setting up, and it filled us with joy to rediscover the lively atmosphere of Asian markets.



The day was already fading, and night would fall quickly.



We retreated to the large square lined with tables, chairs, and little kitchen stalls.

You point to what you want, put together your bowl (veggies, noodles, meat, etc.), pay, and if it needs to be cooked (stir-fried or deep-fried) or reheated, they give you a number on a little stand, and they’ll bring it to your table.





In the evening, families and groups of young people gather here to enjoy street food, mixed in with tourists. There’s something for every taste and budget... While the restaurants in the historic city nearby are quite expensive (compared to the rest of Laos), here you can eat really well for very little! Hygiene seems decent—we ate here several times, including from small stalls in the side streets, and had no issues (though we’re not exactly delicate).

After stuffing ourselves with food and soaking up the atmosphere, we headed back to our hotel. In the monastery courtyard, young monks were laughing around a big fire and greeted us warmly.



The first night was good, except for our little monk neighbors who have nighttime duties... Around 2 AM, we heard *ding ding ding diling* for a few minutes—something light, half-asleep. Then, around 4 AM, as the night started to lighten, a full-on drumming session began, building up in intensity. We got dressed quickly—we *had* to see this.

After about twenty minutes of varied drumming—some frantic, some slower—the calm returned... and we went back to bed and fell asleep (luckily!).

In the morning, we were fresh and ready to explore the city.

Below, our little drummers, in daylight 🙂



To be continued: Mount Phou Si

A few practical tips: - The hotel we stayed at is called Villa Maydou, on the southern edge of the historic area—about a 15-20 minute walk away. A lovely place, set in pavilions, some restored old buildings, others newer but built to respect UNESCO’s guidelines. Nice bar in the garden by the small pool, and a pleasant breakfast. - Besides the night market, we tried a few restaurants and were never disappointed. As I mentioned earlier, restaurants in Luang Prabang’s historic center are much pricier than elsewhere in the country, though it’s still affordable for us, of course. For Lao cuisine, we really enjoyed Tamarind and Bamboo Tree Restaurant, and for a change: a great wood-fired pizza at Popolo Cantina. We especially loved the Lao barbecue experience, with a cast-iron grill filled with coals built into the table, at Dyen Sabai. It’s located on the other side of the Nam Kham River, which you cross via a delicate but sturdy bamboo footbridge. The terrace is gorgeous. At nightfall, lanterns are hung all along the bridge—romantic vibes guaranteed. Reservations are *highly* recommended—it’s a very popular spot.

How sweet it is to take your time...

The more time passes, the more we feel the need to slow down when we travel. I know some see it as wasting time, but for us, it’s about savoring it. Our first four days were super relaxed, with visits at our own pace, walks, and workshops (cooking, dyeing). We also love setting aside time to read, listen to music, and simply soak in the moment. Luang Prabang seemed perfect for that!

The city is packed with wonders, and I have to make some tough choices with the photos...

First, I’ll share the lovely walk that takes you to the top of Mount Phou Si, right in the heart of the old town. The upper part is a sanctuary, covered in altars and topped with a pagoda. Mount Phou Si (it’s more like a big hill) offers amazing views of the city—first over the Nam Khan River, and then, from the summit, the Mekong.





I read in some travel journals that the joy of the visit was spoiled by crowds. We were definitely lucky—at the start of 2023, we made the climb almost alone, though it was early in the morning. It’s only at the very top that we found a few people, but it was still very manageable.

Dozens of Buddhas of all sizes hide in crevices, under trees, and around staircases.













The grand nagas line the staircases...



In the cool of the morning, with the shade of the trees, the climb didn’t feel too tough—especially taking our time.



I’ve hit the 10-photo limit... To be continued in the next post with the historic city.

The old town is truly stunning. So much greenery and flowers.



Mostly restored colonial houses;



so many pagodas—some very famous and crowded, but by wandering around and methodically exploring the city, you’ll find very modest ones that are charming and peaceful at the same time.

As mentioned in the previous post, you just have to go with the flow... Here, beauty is accessible at every street corner. What’s really relaxing is that everything can be done on foot since the area is relatively small. Plus, tourist groups (mostly Chinese) stick to the most famous temples.

So much finesse in the details...











Always these stunning pavilions (here, the Royal Palace)





And then these countless Buddhas...







We spiced up these days with two workshops:

A cooking class, which you can book directly at the Bamboo Tree restaurant. They drive you to a villa in the countryside where you cook Lao dishes—it’s a lot of fun, and afterward, you share a joyful lunch. A dyeing workshop. For this one, you’ll need to arrange transport to the site, Ock Pop Tok Hok, where they use natural dyes from plants, bark, and minerals. Super interesting! The site also has a restaurant with a beautiful terrace overlooking the Mekong. There’s a shop where you can buy lovely silk creations and handwoven items (which explains the cost, as it’s a fair-trade business where workers are paid fairly).

Coming up: two lovely excursions from Luang Prabang!

Of course I'm here 😉 Will there be drawings?... At least one?

Hello

Me too! It’ll probably make me want to visit the south, which I don’t know yet 😉(and later, I’d love to revisit Oman...)

Laos—a land already much more familiar to me than the recent Japan trip—but I never tire of returning to this corner of the globe where life still moves at a relaxed pace. I’m off now! !

Of course I’m here 😉 We’ll get some drawings, right?... At least one?

Sabaïdiiiiiiiiiii Kate! Promise, at least one! 😉

Hello

Me too! It’ll probably make me want to visit the south, which I don’t know yet 😉(and later, I’d love to revisit Oman...)

Welcome, Muriel!

Laos, a land already much more familiar to me than recent Japan, but I never tire of returning to this corner of the globe where the pace of life still reigns

Oh yeah, that’s really the most lasting impression I have. Taking your time. I’ve seen hilarious scenes of hyper-stressed tourists clashing with that unshakable calm. It’s not laziness or indifference at all—it’s just that you’re waiting for a coffee, not performing open-heart surgery...

I’m off then!

There’s still room in the flowery minivan, and we always need a mountain lover!

Boat day: temples, villages, and the Pak Ou caves

Today, we met our guide, Viengkham, who’ll be with us all the way to the south. A laid-back fifty-something with dry humor, he’s a pro at striking up conversations in villages—whether with elders or women. A wink, a joke, showing interest in what they do... and just like that, we’re the ones being asked questions, hearing the same stories over and over: where we’re from, our age, if we have kids or parents, whether we live in a village or a city, and so on.

We crossed a morning market to reach the docks. Oh, look—a stall with roasted rats coated in a brownish sauce.



We asked Viengkham about it, and with a half-smile, he replied, "Everything’s edible... Eve-ry-thing’s e-di-ble," enunciating each syllable. We’d hear that line a lot. Even three years later, my husband and I still toss it back and forth when something sketchy ends up on our plates...

We set off for the day, heading to the Pak Ou caves, with plenty of stops along the Mekong. Lunch was on the boat. If you can, I’d recommend this option—it’s more than just a round trip between Luang Prabang and Pak Ou. Sure, there are "arranged" stops (the potters’ village, the weavers’ village), but it never feels like a trap. The offers are made gently, without pressure. And who knows? You might just find yourself tempted—all for your enjoyment!

Below, the docks of Luang Prabang on the Mekong, lined with majestic trees.



What we loved most—aside from the caves—were the pagodas and monasteries right across the Mekong from Luang Prabang (Vat Chomphet and Vat Lonkhoune).



The temple below is exceptional: once you cross the threshold, past its two Chinese-style guardians, you enter a hall covered in frescoes.













To be continued!

Along the way, we also stopped in a large weaving village, San Hai (or Xang Hai); it starts with a welcome around a still, followed by a stroll through the streets lined with small shops. A pretty pagoda is hidden in the middle of the village.



We have a light lunch on the water, watching the landscapes drift by (very slowly, as we’re going upstream on the Mekong). The riverbanks are high, most villages are out of sight, but the surroundings of Pak Ou are stunning, even if the photos don’t do them justice—the light is so bright it flattens everything.



Pak Ou

We arrive in Pak Ou during the hottest hours of the day, and there’s almost no one around. A flight of steps leads us to the first cave, and you can’t help but be fascinated by the piles of Buddhas of all sizes. Their aging is accelerated by the constant humidity, so you never know if they’re 5, 10, 100, or 1,000 years old... but does it really matter?



Next, we take the stairs up to a second cave, lower but deeper. Here again, thousands of Buddhas, from the most ornate to the simplest.



It’s time to head back, and all we have to do is weave our way through the many boats starting to arrive and pile up (the afternoon visits), then let the current carry us down to Luang Prabang.









As we arrive in Luang Prabang, the stupa crowning Mount Phou Si glows under the slanting rays of the late-afternoon sun.

Tonight, a little treat at a great restaurant we reach via a footbridge over the Nam Khan River (Dyen Sabai restaurant, mentioned in a previous post).

Tomorrow, Kuang Si Falls, after a lovely walk through the countryside.

Kuang Si Waterfalls

Today, a new excursion with a 3-hour hike to reach the Kuang Si Falls.

Of course, you can get dropped off by car or bus directly at the falls, but I recommend this little hike that starts from charming villages (e.g., Long Lao Ban), which are about 2 to 3 hours' walk from the falls, depending on your starting point. It’s a hike offered by a few agencies, but you can also do it solo—it’s an easy route! If you go solo, you’ll need to get dropped off in one of the villages by private vehicle, but for the return trip, public transport is available. Don’t forget to pack a light picnic, swimsuits, and towels.

The walk is very pleasant. The starting villages (Hmong) are charming, and you won’t run into many people—everyone’s at work!







You’ll cross beautiful countryside and farmland,







then enter the undergrowth and finally the tropical forest. The route isn’t difficult—you more or less follow valleys. There are two small climbs that’ll make you catch your breath, but you recover quickly. Just take it at your own pace. You’ll stop here and there (several small altars or religious sites).



Before the waterfalls, there’s a picnic area. A group of schoolchildren is there, horsing around and pushing each other into the water.



Beyond the hike itself, the advantage is that you arrive at the top of the falls, where you’ll descend via a large staircase carved into the rock (I’d much rather do it going down than up). It’s even better because I’ve read in other travel journals that if you arrive from the bottom and climb up, you’re disappointed when you reach the top—there’s not much to see compared to the cascades.

So, before rushing into a stunning waterfall, the river has carved out "natural pools" that you "step over" via wooden footbridges. You can swim, like this group of monks, but it’ll be even nicer down below.



Watch out: the staircase leading to the bottom of the falls is the trickiest part. In the dry season, the stone was covered with a thin layer of dirt, making the steps very slippery, even with good shoes. Hold onto the railings (when there are any) and, above all, grab branches and roots. Though I suppose during the monsoon, they’re just as slippery!

To be continued in the next post!

Kuang Si, continued





At the foot of the falls, the river flows into turquoise pools… It’s magical!





Fortunately, swimming is banned in the first pools, which helps preserve the site’s beauty, but a little further on there are spots where you can relax in the cool water—super refreshing after the hike.





We’re caught up in the social media era… we witness some hilarious photo sessions with Instagram influencers getting snapped by their assistants to show off their muscles or the curve of their backs on their accounts.



Next, we head back to the parking lot where our vehicle is waiting. But there are also plenty of public buses.

It was a great day!

To be continued in the next post with a little getaway further north...

A beautiful way to discover these magnificent waterfalls.

la cambrure de leurs reins.

I only believe what I see 😉

Hello, I'm heading off too—I can't wait to explore the south, which I haven't visited yet.

A beautiful way to discover these magnificent waterfalls.

the curve of their backs.

I only believe what I see 😉

Haha, these influencers already show enough of themselves—I won’t add to it 🙂

Hello, I'm heading off too—I can't wait to discover the south, which I haven't explored yet.

Come on, let's go... After one last stop in the north. That said, the North is still my favorite part!

Enchanted parenthesis

Starting from Luang Prabang, we took a 3-day getaway to a small village in the middle of rice fields, a bit further north. On the agenda: a 3-hour car ride to Nong Khiaw, one night there, then a 2-hour boat trip to Muang Noi, followed by a 2-hour walk to the small village of Ban Na, where we’ll spend 2 nights in a little guesthouse run by Mama Kham.

The car ride, not counting stops, takes about 3 hours. It’s a fairly busy road with lots of trucks, but we drive slowly. We make quite a few stops—to visit a roadside village, take some landscape photos, buy mandarins and bananas.















Big tadpoles... Can you eat them, Viengkham? "Everything’s edible... Eve-ry-thing!"

When we arrive in Nong Khiaw, we need to stretch our legs and head up to one of the viewpoints overlooking the town. We chose the lower one, which still offers a stunning view. The setting is paradise-like: a river winding between mountains (the Nam Ou River) and, on either side of a big bend, a small town. Access to the viewpoint is paid (I don’t remember the price, but it’s very reasonable, and it goes toward maintaining the bamboo bridge and especially the stairs carved into the mountainside). The hike up takes 30 to 40 minutes, uphill (maybe 20 minutes for fit people who don’t need as many breaks as we do). It’s a steady climb, with well-maintained dirt steps (though they must get slippery during the monsoon). It’s not too hard—just take breaks as needed, and make sure to bring water (it’s really hot) and wear proper shoes. Bonus: you’re shaded the whole way, as the climb is through trees. At the end, you go up two ladders, but don’t worry—they’re sturdy, and it’s only a few meters. At the top, the view is absolutely worth it, and sitting on the little benches, we savor our small bananas bought earlier by the roadside with a sense of contentment and gratitude.





We see a young tourist running up (he must’ve made it in 10 minutes), he glances around, takes a selfie, and runs back down. I think he stayed just long enough for us to eat half a banana!



Tonight, we’re staying at a hotel away from the town, in a lush, sloping site down to the river (Nongkhiaw Resort—a recent complex with sleek architecture, shaped like traditional pavilions but with modern materials). The place is deserted (only two rooms are occupied). It’s quite magical, and we enjoy the end of the day with a drink at sunset after a quick dip in the pool.

We hear distant music from the town—apparently, there are weddings, which we’ll confirm over the next few days. We’re told people came from all around to attend.

While sipping our Lao beers on the terrace, a big boat pulls up in front of our hotel, blasting music—it’s a full-on party! We wait it out, and it finally moves away once night falls... and calm returns. We hear what sounds like crickets or cicadas, along with frogs.

We’re in heaven.

This morning we're leaving very early and boarding directly from the hotel dock. The light is really special this morning—it's misty, but it'll gradually clear up.



We're heading up the Nam Ou River. It's so peaceful and calm, and we spot a few fishermen along the way. We pass the large town of Muang Ngoi Kao (or Muang Ngoi Neua on Google Maps) and continue upstream. The vegetation is incredible.





The color contrasts are striking, depending on whether you're in the sun or shade, and the reflections are amazing.

We continue on to Sop Chèm, a lovely welcoming village. There’s a superb guesthouse there with a magnificent garden, flowers everywhere. If I ever needed a retreat, I’d definitely come here!













We then head back to Muang Ngoi Kao...





As I mentioned, it’s a large town and a key hub for connecting villages and transporting goods. The docks are constantly busy with long public boats loaded with passengers or cargo. There are plenty of guesthouses and restaurants catering to backpackers, as it’s the starting point for hikes through the countryside—just like we’re about to do. Some visitors stay here and go on day hikes, while others, like us, set off to spend two nights in a village and explore the area. For travelers with all their luggage, it’s possible to leave it in storage and just take the essentials for 2 or 3 days. We planned to have lunch there, on a terrace by the river. The menu was limited because all the cooks had gone to Nong Khiaw for the weddings—it was *the* event of the year!

After a light lunch, we set off to reach Ban Na and our guesthouse, less than a 2-hour walk away.

To be continued: Ban Na

So here we are, setting off with Viengkam for an easy hike, with a small backpack for 2 nights, along a dirt road. Once we pass the last houses, we venture into a lovely countryside—wooded hills to our left, a small river to our right, and fields beyond.

Along the way, we stop by a cave that served as shelter during the war. This gives Viengkam the chance to tell us about what Laotians call the “forgotten war.” Laos, which was home to many communists fighting alongside the Viet Cong, also suffered greatly: a rain of bombs fell on its soil, though less publicized than in Vietnam. A civil war broke out, pitting communists against the institutional monarchy established after independence, which was backed by Western powers. The Hmong ethnic group largely sided with the monarchy and the West. The communists ultimately won, leading to the exile of thousands of Hmong, some of whom took refuge in French Guiana, where the Hmong community is now very present. In total, nearly 500,000 people died—15 to 20% of the country’s population at the time. Even today, demining continues in areas where buried munitions pose a major threat to wildlife and farmers, especially children.

While discussing this war, we leave the forest and emerge into a vast agricultural area. These are rice fields—incidentally, “Ban Na,” the village we’re heading to, means “the village of the rice field.” At this time of year, it’s dry and yellow, but it must be stunning at the end of the rainy season!







The landscape is still charming! We cross the fields, passing numerous cows and buffaloes. A river hums and winds at the foot of the hills. We arrive in Ban Na. The first house belongs to Mama Kham, our host. Mama Kham is a 70-year-old woman and a real entrepreneur! She runs her guesthouse with a firm hand, helped by her daughter-in-law. Her son is the village chief (elected, like a mayor), and her husband, a former chief himself, is a shaman in this animist village.

The “common room” is a covered terrace where you can admire the view, lounge in hammocks, or chat with other guests. The beer isn’t very cold, but that’s normal since the public electricity grid doesn’t reach the village—everyone generates their own power using small turbines placed in the river. Every house has at least one of these turbines, which explains the wires running from the river to the village! One turbine is enough for lighting, but you need several for other appliances.



We immediately feel at home here. After a quick tour of the village, we settle onto the terrace: we watch the day fade and the cows and buffaloes leave the fields to return closer to the houses.











Tonight, the company will be lively. Among the guests we’ve met—mostly young Europeans (French, Italian, German)—I can’t resist introducing you to Margot and Louis, an extraordinary young couple. After saving up all their money for 3 years, they set off at the end of 2021 on a hitchhiking trip around the world: their rule is that they don’t pay for any transport (and they try to camp or get hosted as much as possible). They have an Instagram account that started as “onemap2bags” and is now called “Ziyouroam” (don’t ask me what it means), and I highly recommend checking it out. What interests them are the people they meet through hitchhiking (and cargo-hitching), and they create portraits of them. First, I must admit that with my well-established life as a 50-something, I initially looked at them with a bit of condescension, but I quickly changed my mind: they’re optimists and humanists, but not naive dreamers—they’re determined, resilient, courageous, extremely well-organized, and resourceful (to get a free ride on a cargo ship, you have to run a real marketing campaign). They know how to reach out to others and make connections, and they’ve learned to trust their intuition. I admire and respect them immensely. For Laos, Louis’s mom was traveling with them, backpack and all. Since we met, they’ve first switched to bicycles for their North American crossing since hitchhiking is banned in the U.S. Then they resumed hitchhiking in Mexico and completed their loop in early 2025, returning to Paris. Margot gave birth to a beautiful baby conceived during their trip… and they set off again in March 2026, this time with their little one, heading to China (Chongqing, Sichuan, and Guizhou), favoring trains this time. Their approach remains the same: being open to encounters, without judgment.

Last night, we had a beautiful storm. I was woken up by the gusts of wind before the squall, and then the rain started falling like a thick curtain... Luckily, the corrugated iron roof is holding up well—we're dry! The only thing is, with all that water coming down, I suddenly had an irresistible urge to pee. After waiting a long time, the rain finally calmed down, and I decided to grab the flashlight... I had to cross the muddy, slippery courtyard, nearly wiping out several times—okay, fine, that’s my biggest adventure ;) I’m really not on Margot and Louis’s level!

The next day, the sun was back. A mist enveloped the rice fields and hills—it was magical.







Everything had turned green overnight, and we set off for a walk with Viengkham, heading to a nearby village, feeling lighthearted.







The paths were a little (very) muddy, as were the fields we crossed... it was that lovely clay soil that sticks *perfectly* to your soles :)

We passed several people gathering frogs and snails ("Everything is edible. Ev-er-y-thing"). We also saw people in the rice fields with shovels or pickaxes, collecting rice field crabs ("Everything is edible. Ev-er-y-thing"). Tonight, the pots will be bubbling, and the smell of crab will be tickling our noses!



Our guide chatted with everyone we met. We had such a great time with him! He laughs a lot—with us, with the people he meets—I’ve already told you he has a knack for striking up conversations (which is what makes a good guide).

We stopped to watch men making a rifle: they carved a stock from a floorboard, attached a steel tube, then added a trigger mechanism they’d bought. A little further on, people were making machetes, and then we ran into a hunter returning with a wild rooster. Viengkham bought it from him—he’s going to give it to Mama Kham and her family. Maintaining good relationships is essential!

Tonight, the evening will be lively again—better not count the little glasses of law-law (rice alcohol) that went around! 😄 At the same time, it’s February, Dry January is over, and our mattresses aren’t far from the communal table anyway.

The next day, we leave Ban Na after breakfast.











A little chapter closes—I feel a pang in my heart and some regret that we can’t head farther north and spend more time in places like this. If we were backpackers with the freedom to change our plans, I think we would’ve decided to skip the south of the country. But spontaneity isn’t for us—it would give us cold sweats all the time, while for others, I get that it’s a thrill. The key is knowing yourself! We head to Muang Ngoi Kao to catch our boat and then the car to Luang Prabang. After retrieving our car in Nong Khiaw, we arrive in Luang Prabang by mid-afternoon, which lets us enjoy one last evening there. Tomorrow morning, we fly to Pakse. Next posts: the south, Champasak, the 4,000 Islands, and the Bolaven Plateau.

This northern part brought back some really nice memories (even though back then I did grumble a bit about the sky rarely being blue... but you forget! 😎) ... and a few regrets (the viewpoint over the Nam Ou wasn’t as high as the one we’d done, and that last stretch in a small village that seems really charming). Was your guide French-speaking or English-speaking?

On to the southern part now 🙂

Since we met, they first changed their mode of transportation, switching to cycling for their North American crossing since hitchhiking is banned in the USA. Then they resumed hitchhiking in Mexicobefore completing the loop in early 2025, returning to Paris. Margot gave birth to a beautiful baby conceived during their trip... and they set off again, with their little one, in March 2026, for China (Chongqing, Sichuan, and Guizhou), this time favoring the train. Their approach remains the same: being open to encounters, without judgment.

Respect! 😮

When traveling, you often meet unique people with extraordinary journeys. Some are committed to philosophical approaches, others travel the world backpacking with three young kids, and still others seek life projects aligned with their values... I admire them while sometimes feeling nostalgic for what I could have done or been without ever daring to take the leap... Maybe in another life, but who knows, I might be reincarnated as an object 😕

When traveling, you often meet unconventional people with extraordinary life paths.

I admire them, though I sometimes feel nostalgic for what I could have done or been.

There’s no age limit (as long as you’re healthy and have the financial means). Recently, I was reading the travel journal of a French retiree who travels solo—she gets around by public transport and often hitchhikes. For example, in Tajikistan and several other Central Asian countries, she did quite a bit of hitchhiking.

On Myatlas, I read the journal of another retiree who traveled by bike for several months, from Mexico to Colombia, passing through Guatemala, Nicaragua, and El Salvador. He nearly didn’t make it multiple times because in Central America, roads and traffic aren’t bike-friendly.

Still on Myatlas, you can read stories of other retirees exploring Africa in a converted truck (they visit non-touristy African countries that never come up in forums).

These journeys, which were once considered "unconventional" and "off the beaten path," are becoming more common today.

Otherwise, to meet and connect with locals, nothing beats taking public transport—but you still need to speak the local language if you want meaningful conversations.

Viengkham is French-speaking. I’m comfortable with English, but my husband is less so, so it makes things easier 🙂

On one hand, some aspects of backpacking—freedom to improvise and public transport—really appeal to me, and I think you can try it at any age. But on the other, my husband and I need to know where we’re sleeping (and not just the same evening), we enjoy a certain level of comfort (mixing up the styles), and up until now (I’m still working) we’ve had time constraints. I know we could try traveling a bit differently, but in countries like Laos, for example, it would take us twice as long. Then again, we could also choose to do less and take more time—definitely an option.

Everyone has to find their own balance...

For us, the compromise of independent couple travel with a guide and transport works well (since we can afford it). It gives us a lot of freedom of movement and choice, and it also helps us manage our energy (fatigue) because the unexpected is under control and travel is optimized... even if we lose a bit of spontaneity.

Discussions about travel styles are so interesting, especially when it’s judgment-free!

Pakse We arrived in Pakse and it's already really hot, even though it's only mid-morning...

First, we head to the village of Don Khor (Ban Don Khor), famous for its Buddha sculpture workshops, about 7 km from Pakse. These open-air workshops are always fascinating! Buddhas of all sizes—and made from all kinds of materials—take shape under the skilled hands of the workers. These aren’t plaster molds; they’re real sculptures, carved from natural stones (marble, sandstone, etc.) or blocks of reconstituted stone or composite materials.



As we walk through the neighborhood, moving from one workshop to another, we feel like we’re being watched... It’s Buddha, looking down at us from above the houses... This is the new large Buddha installed recently (2020) at Vat Chompet.



So, it makes sense that we continue our visit to Vat Chompet.

There aren’t many tourists around. At first glance, the site doesn’t look like much, but it’s a popular religious complex, and many devotees are present, crowding into the temples. The crowds will likely grow even more with the recent addition of this monumental Buddha! We go take a look at this gleaming 30-meter-tall Buddha.





It’s surrounded by a golden armada,





as well as large representations of the Buddhist bestiary.



The layout isn’t finished yet: you can see concrete columns standing, and a sort of walkway will probably be added. This will boost the monastery’s appeal, the number of pilgrims, and ultimately, donations.

We head toward the temples, where many devotees are gathered.





To be continued in the next post!

As long as we stay discreet, we can observe different rituals without drawing attention. Except for that little boy who stared at me for a long time... I must have seemed exotic or strange to him.









Anyway, it’s a detour we highly recommend if you get the chance.

We head to Pakse for lunch. Then we make our way to Vat Phousalao, which is up there on the other side of the Mekong: a large Buddha stands at the top of a hill. If you pass through Pakse, you can’t miss it!













We soak in the view of the Mekong, then, exhausted by the heat, decide to head back to the hotel to enjoy the pool.

Tomorrow, we’ve got a pretty long day ahead!

Restaurants: Daolin (great selection); if you fancy a change, why not try Italian? Dok Mai Lao Trattoria Italiana; for a rooftop: Paksé Hotel restaurant. Hotel: Le Jardin, a bit old-fashioned but pleasant and lush.

Champassak!



Alright, how about a little dip into history? First off, I should tell you that we love history, especially archaeological sites... So we’re really excited to discover Champassak and connect it with what we marveled at in Cambodia over 10 years ago.

The "mountain temple" ("Vat Phou") is a site that’s been occupied since the 5th century, and it’s the cradle of Khmer civilization. The few temples still standing (or that have been put back up by archaeologists—kudos and thank you!) date from the 11th and 12th centuries.

Today, it’s also a very important Buddhist sanctuary. Every year, a major pilgrimage takes place during the Makha Busa festival. And we arrive right after it! All the pilgrims have left, and an army of workers (mostly women) is busy collecting heaps of trash. Bags are being filled, but lots of small fires are burning too... In a few days, I suppose you won’t see anything, but "here and now," we have to make an effort to look past it all to enjoy the site. And we really have to get creative to take photos without plastic bags in them.











Let’s give a big shout-out to the patience of the archaeologists and their teams!



It’s a really beautiful site. A paved path leads up to the upper terraces, where the view is fantastic.



The blooming frangipani trees, with their sublime fragrance, complete the experience...

At the top of the stairs, more temples await,



To be continued...

Champassak, continued

The statues and bas-reliefs transport us to Angkor...

















One last look at this beautiful panorama before heading back down!

Leaving Champassak, we made a quick stop at this pagoda we’d spotted this morning, drawn in by the beautiful Buddha wedged between two trees, leaning back toward the road! This is Vat Sisumang.



The pagoda is simple, but the site is stunning and peaceful. A magnificent tree spreads its enormous branches. The view of the Mekong is gorgeous.





After a quick lunch, we took a ferry to cross the Mekong and head to the pre-Angkorian site of Vat Tomo, about forty kilometers away. The last few kilometers on a dirt track were un.be.liev.a.bly loooooooooooooooooong! The site, nestled in the forest under towering leafy trees, reminded us of some of the more remote temples near Angkor: a few standing wall sections and piles of stones overgrown with vines, hinting at past glories.









If you’re as into archaeology as we are, it’s worth the detour—but otherwise, you can skip it.

Next up: Si Phan Don, the "4,000 Islands."

Si Phan Don, archipelago on the Mekong...

Well, I don’t know if it happens to you too, but just saying "Mekong" transports me far away, like "Okavango", "Colorado", "Zambezi", "Nile", "Amazon"... and others... These legendary rivers, and all the myths and history they carry.

Just before the border with Cambodia, our old companion the Mekong splits into many branches, forming an archipelago made up of thousands of islands and islets.

The day before, we arrived on Don Khong Island to stay for 3 nights. It’s a good size for a river island that isn’t in a delta—16 km by 8 km—and it’s the largest in the archipelago. It’s far from being a touristy island, even though it has a few hotels and restaurants. Tourists tend to prefer Don Tet, so Don Khong has the advantage of being peaceful and keeping its authentic charm, which we’ll discover by exploring it by bike.

Today, a pirogue picks us up early at the hotel. We set off for about 1.5 hours of navigation, heading downstream on the Mekong. Along the banks and on the islets, nature becomes more and more lush—magnificent trees, exuberant palm trees. The roof of a pagoda occasionally stands out from the vegetation.

The 4000 Islands, continued...



We follow a small branch of the river to dock on Don Tet Island.



It’s definitely a tourist hotspot, with plenty of bars and guesthouses. We walk through the village on foot—at this early hour, it’s very quiet... lots of young European, Australian, or New Zealand tourists are still dozing in hammocks or stretching and yawning, some with a bowl of honey pops in hand—proof that the nights here are lively! And if there are any parents around, they’ve already gone for a walk.





After a bit of walking, we hop into a tuk-tuk. Vroom vroom—we’re hit with that familiar rush of power and speed every time we cut through the air in a tuk-tuk! We cross a bridge to reach Don Khone Island. Our destination: the Tad Somphamit waterfalls, also known as Li Phi or Lippi.





To get to the falls, we walk through a beautiful park—it’s a really pleasant stroll, and you can even come here for a picnic.



But the day is far from over. We get back in the tuk-tuk and head to the south of the island, to the "old French port." Another boat (a fisherman’s skiff) is waiting to take us exploring the waters of the Mekong around dozens of small, uninhabited islets.

We're basking in the sunshine, and the three dominant colors are the blue of the waters and sky, the yellow of the sand, and the green of the vegetation. It's magnificent.



We won’t see the freshwater dolphins... it seems the sound waves from a dam upstream on one of the Mekong’s branches have driven them further downstream, on the Cambodian side, but we’re enjoying this paradise-like landscape with its little coves lined with beaches.



We explore a small islet on foot, and we feel like we’re at the end of the world. We could easily stay here and have a fish grilled for us...



We return to the "old French port" on Don Khone, have lunch on the spot (a pleasant little guesthouse: Pomelo Guesthouse and restaurant)



then meet up with our boat from this morning







to drop us off a short distance away, on the neighboring island of Don Sadam, where our vehicle is waiting to take us to the famous Khone Phapheng Falls.

This site is also very pleasant. Shortly after entering, we walk through a wooded park and stop to see the trunk of the sacred Manikoth tree, kept safe in a display case under a pagoda dedicated to it.



This tree once stood on a rock in the middle of the falls until 2012, when it was uprooted by particularly fierce waters. Its uprooting had a huge impact in the country because, according to an epic poem adapted from the Ramayana, this tree was endowed with supernatural powers. After several failed attempts to recover it, it was finally lifted into the air by a helicopter and secured, then sheltered in a pagoda built for this purpose. Below, offerings in the shape of seven-headed Nagas, placed at the foot of the sacred tree’s trunk, are likely a reference to Muchalinda, the naga who saved Buddha from a sudden rise in water by emerging from the roots of the tree where Buddha was resting and protecting him in the coils of its body.



But let’s get to the falls: the waters roar, weaving between the rocks, creating rapids over 10 km with a total drop of 20 meters. They have one of the strongest flows in the world and are certainly the largest waterfalls in Southeast Asia by volume. It’s worth noting that the railway line built by the French was created to address the fact that Mekong navigation was inevitably interrupted at this point.



It’s not as spectacular as a massive vertical waterfall, but the power and noise are impressive—and this is the dry season!

We return by car to Don Khong Island. Viengkham says goodbye; he’s off to join another group that just arrived and will be guiding them for 10 days. We’re glad we got to know him—we had a great time together.

Pon Arena Hotel, pleasant, with two beautiful large infinity pools on the terrace by the Mekong. Hotel restaurant, plus two small nearby restaurants.

Today was a "chill" day on Don Khong Island. I set my alarm to catch the sunrise over the Mekong. It’s breathtaking and leaves us with a lasting sense of beauty, harmony, and peace... We breathe in the cool morning air, savoring the moment, grateful for the luck of being here.



We remember the sunrise on this same Mekong, 400 km to the south, in Kompong Cham, Cambodia,



and the sunset in the Mekong Delta in Vietnam, another 300 km further down...



After breakfast, we borrow bikes from the hotel and set off to explore. This isn’t a touristy island—it’s the "real deal." We stop everywhere, at the many pagodas and temples.











Kids on bikes wave at us, laughing—they must think we look exhausted, and honestly, even though it’s flat, we’re starting to feel the heat.



We watch this group of kids playing in the Mekong...



Alright, time to head back to the hotel and enjoy the gorgeous pools!

Tomorrow’s already our last stop: the Bolaven Plateau!

What I love is that just looking at the photos makes you feel more zen... 🙂

What I love is that just looking at the photos makes you feel more zen .... 🙂

True, I feel the same way posting this travel journal 😉

The final curtain!





The radiant smiles of young dancers from a folk troupe we came across in a parking lot!

This morning, we leave Don Khong to head back up to Paksé and from there, start a loop around the plateau, spending one night in the village of Tad Lo (or Tat Lo). The Bolaven Plateau is famous for its landscapes (many waterfalls), ethnic villages, and its coffee (very smooth indeed). We stop in villages, enjoy the scenery, but both of us are struggling to be fully present in the moment. Maybe it’s the "end-of-trip" effect— that little bit of blues when the journey comes to a close. Though I’ve had trips where we were on cloud nine right until the end (with a brutal return to reality at Charles de Gaulle, sometimes). Maybe it’s also because our new guide, much less experienced than Viengham, doesn’t have the same knack for striking up conversations in the villages. Anyway, we visit the villages, but the interactions, beyond friendly greetings, are much more limited than what we experienced in the north. It’s probably also because we have the feeling that everyone here is doing the same motorbike circuit, with the same stops in the same villages! But we’re still not complaining: we’re visiting beautiful villages, seeing stunning waterfalls in magnificent nature, and tasting great coffee.

















To be continued in the next post...

Bolaven Plateau, continued

In the evening, we sleep at Tadlo Lodge, located in a beautiful setting. Simple but comfortable wooden cottages by the river, and a few hundred meters away, a stunning waterfall accessible via a trail. Families are swimming, kids are playing and laughing.





The view is breathtaking. However, I didn’t go to admire it from that footbridge...



The next day, we continue our visits.













But now, we have to head back to Pakse, where we’ll spend our last night.

Back in Pakse, we stop at the market to soak up one last time that atmosphere we love so much.

















The next day, we take a minibus to Thailand to reach Ubon Ratchathani Airport, about a 2.5-hour drive away. There are plenty of connections to Bangkok. Summary: We really loved Laos; we felt that calm and serenity people had often told us about. Okay, I should also mention that we’re "optimistic and positive travelers"—for us, traveling is still an incredible opportunity. When we were kids, in our families, it wasn’t something we could do, so we always feel privileged. We stay positive and open to new discoveries. If we were to do it again? I think we’d spend our entire trip in the north (even though we wanted to see Champassak, and even the 4,000 Islands region is very pleasant). That way, we could go even farther north, even more off the tourist trail, while still spending a good amount of time in Luang Prabang, just like we did. Its laid-back vibe is amazing, and it’s stayed with me like a bubble of well-being.

Thanks Fabienne for this really enjoyable travel journal to read. It brought back memories and made me want to discover other regions of Laos (even if they weren’t your favorites).

Now, like your personal photo suggests, we’re waiting for a report from Oman 😎 (yes, I know, it’s not easy to find the time—I’m well aware that a travel journal is super time-consuming 😉).

Thanks Fabienne for this travel journal—it was such a pleasant read. It brought back memories and made me want to explore other regions of Laos (even if they weren’t your favorites).

It’s so subjective! It often comes down to the moments, too. If I were to do it again with more than 3 weeks, I’d spend longer in the north but still keep the south, and I’d also venture into other less accessible and visited areas... I’d need at least 6 or 8 weeks 😅

Now, like your personal photo suggests, we’re waiting for a return from Oman 😎 (yes, I know, it’s not easy to find the time—I’m well aware that a travel journal is super time-consuming 😉).

First, I’ll do some drawings of Laos to post—I promised Kate 😅. I’ve set aside photos of kids, so I’ll try that, but it’s too hot to draw right now!

And then I’ll get started on Oman, since I want to capture it in images like I did for Japan... I think I’ll work on it all summer before sharing it!

Hi there, and thank you for this lovely travel journal that brings back so many amazing memories from ... 17 years ago! Laos, along with Cambodia, from north to south, is—was?—one of my favorite countries... without the strong Chinese presence.... I love everything about this country: the people, the landscapes, the monuments, the food, and... that laid-back vibe!

Hello, and thank you for this beautiful travel journal that brings back so many wonderful memories from ... 17 years ago....

Thanks, Alain. Countries that leave lasting impressions. Like Myanmar, too, when you're lucky enough to have visited before it was locked down again.

Laos, along with Cambodia, from north to south, is—was?—one of my favorite countries.... without the strong Chinese presence....

. Actually, the Chinese presence is visible in the infrastructure (high-speed trains, roads, dams) and urban expansion (public works, real estate). For the rest, the villages and countryside, I think you’d still find what you loved. Chinese tourists, meanwhile, stick to a few hotspots and are just as unpopular as they are across Southeast Asia, even if their money is welcome. Of course, if you live there, you likely see even more economic control and political influence. A form of colonialism that doesn’t say its name.

I love everything about this country—the people, landscapes, monuments, cuisine, and... the laid-back vibe!

Yes, you’re right to mention the laid-back attitude, a kind of polite detachment that shows you there’s no need to get worked up or rush... with a little smile. I loved it.

Okay, so first I’ll do some drawings of Laos to post—I promised Kate 😊. I’ve set aside some photos of kids, so I’ll try that, but it’s too hot to draw right now!

After that, I’ll get started on Oman. I really want to capture it in images like I did for Japan... I think I’ll work on it all summer before sharing!

Thanks for all this ;) First for the drawing, then for the travel journal on Oman, which will be my next destination if the conflicts calm down.

Thanks so much for this travel journal. I really loved your photos—they’re so peaceful and beautiful. Can’t wait to see your drawings. And yeah, you could easily spend weeks and weeks in Laos just soaking in the vibe.