Faces and Landscapes of Senegal (Gorée, Saint-Louis)

Hello!



I invite you to share our wonderful discovery of Saint-Louis and its surroundings: Djoudj Park and the Langue de Barbarie... Daily life, heritage, landscapes, and wildlife (birds)...

We stayed in Senegal for 10 days in April/May 2018, specifically in Saint-Louis, Senegal, since we were there for the Jazz Festival held every year. But we took the opportunity to explore this country we didn’t know!

In this travel journal, you’ll find: - A short stop in Gorée, which we visited before heading to Saint-Louis - The different faces of Saint-Louis, especially the vibrant fishermen’s district - Djoudj Park, with its many birds - The Langue de Barbarie ... and much more!

Before going to Senegal, I did some research on this forum and others. So many strong opinions about Senegal—you either love it or hate it! If it hadn’t been for the festival, we might not have gone... What a shame that would’ve been, because we loved it!

Of course, I saw poverty, idleness, and litter, especially plastic bags—a global scourge. A bit of harassment from street vendors, especially at first when you don’t know how to deflect it and accidentally encourage it. The privileges of a social class and inequalities, though that’s something you encounter in many poor countries, not just in Africa.

But when I close my eyes and remember our trip, what stays with me is the youth, the beauty of so many boys and girls, the elegance of the women, and the sparkle in their eyes and smiles. The light and colors, the smell of grilled fish, the taste of freshly roasted peanuts and baobab fruit. The honking horns, the call of the muezzins, the music, the bursts of laughter.







To be continued...

Beautiful photos. I was also delighted to see the beauty of the women and sometimes compared their colorful clothes to flights of butterflies. I haven’t seen such vibrant colors in robes and festive clothing anywhere else in West Africa—sometimes even in very small villages. Bright yellow, red, orange, blue, green, pink. It pops and it’s gorgeous. Thanks for sharing. I’ll keep reading you.

Thanks, Cambrousse! I saw on your profile that you’ve spent a lot of time in Benin—a country we’re really curious about. I might reach out again to learn more! Best,

I’d be happy to! 🙂

Gorée Island

Before heading to Saint-Louis, we made the usual trip to Gorée Island, which I highly recommend.

At the ferry dock early in the morning, it's bustling. Entire classes of children and teenagers, all lined up...



. Tourists, of course, and many people who work on the island, like all those street vendors trying to make some money with trinkets and knick-knacks. They start chatting with tourists on the boat: "Hello, I'm Vanessa Paradis. What's your name? You'll come see me on the island and buy a necklace from me, okay?" Don’t say "okay" lightly... later on the island, she’ll recognize you among 100 people and remind you of your promise, and pretend to get upset if you don’t keep it... The ferry leaves the port of Dakar and passes a few fishermen along the way.





The island is just a little over 4 km from the coast, so the crossing is quick.





The island is small, and the walk is very pleasant through streets lined with some beautiful colonial houses.







Climb up to the fort for a view of Dakar, watch the black kites soaring in the sky and diving for prey...

- Visit the House of Slaves, a moving symbolic site.









We now know that Gorée played only a minor role in the slave trade, and many of the figures presented at the museum, aiming to portray Gorée as the hub of the slave trade, are incorrect... But it doesn’t matter—the symbolic weight is strong, and it’s a memorial site dedicated to all the victims of an abomination that lasted for centuries and on which men, cities, and countries built their wealth.

During your walk on Gorée Island, you’ll likely be approached by souvenir vendors... if you follow the basic rule of not looking at the items or engaging in conversation if you don’t want to buy, and say so very clearly before turning away... you’ll be fine! I’ve seen much worse! That said, you can also buy something, taking your time to negotiate...





That’s all for Gorée—a charming excursion of a few hours...

On the way to Saint Louis, Senegal

From Dakar to Saint Louis, just over 250 km, a 4- to 5-hour drive, passing through numerous villages. We want to arrive in Saint Louis before nightfall, so unfortunately, we don’t have time to stop... we watch small shops, workshops, and lively village centers flash by in the late afternoon. Sorry, the photos aren’t very clear since they were taken on the go...

























We stop at the foot of an ancient baobab tree... we’re told it’s 1,200 years old—it could be 600, 1,000, or even 2,000. Either way, you can’t help but wonder about all the stories it could tell... I press my ear against its trunk... but alas, I don’t hear its voice!



A group of kids comes running from who-knows-where, even though there’s no village in sight...





To be continued!!!

Beautiful Saint Louis

Saint Louis is located on the Senegal River, near its mouth. The historic heart, featuring numerous colonial buildings that earned it UNESCO status (though there are currently concerns about maintaining this classification), is on Ndar Island, which you cross via the Faidherbe Bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel (the most common joke in Saint Louis: what’s the lightest bridge in the world? The Faidherbe Bridge... made of *herbe*... grass). Between the river and the ocean, a narrow strip of sand supports the fishermen’s district. This is the Langue de Barbarie, stretching about 20 kilometers south, part of which is now a national park... I’ll talk more about it in a future post.

In fact, Saint Louis offers at least three distinct faces: - Ndar Island, gentle and tranquil, suave and languid, with its faded colonial buildings, shops, and a focus on tourism. - The fishermen’s district, as the name suggests, is almost entirely dedicated to this central activity in Saint Louis. Unlike Ndar Island, this area is bustling with life, spicy and colorful. - The mainland part, also teeming with activity, which we saw much less of, except when heading to the market.

Ndar Island is small—you can wander its streets without fear of getting lost. It’s very pleasant to explore randomly, strolling from north to south, from one side of the river to the other. You’ll get gently "hassled" by shopkeepers or street vendors in the 2 or 3 commercial streets near the center... but it’s all good-natured, and once you move away, it’s very peaceful.







I realize I don’t have many photos of the center... I have more of the side streets, with houses that are certainly faded but with such beautiful colors...









Some of these murals (or shop fronts) add to the city’s charm.









Not many photos of people, as they either don’t want to be photographed or expect payment... but I’m allowed to photograph goats and sheep for free!!!







You inevitably end up at the river... At first glance, the banks are shocking with their mountain of plastic bags—it’s truly a global scourge. That said, you still get swept up in the magic of the place...







TO BE CONTINUED: I’ve still got plenty more to show you if you’re interested!!!

Hi Fabienne, thanks for this beautiful share! First observation: the women! I no longer take their photos, and especially, I no longer share them! And unfortunately, I’m seeing more and more "veils" and black clothing. I’m not talking about the colorful scarves worn in the African style... I fear a step backward for women’s freedom... like in Mali, for example! Like in Morocco too, where there’s a return to obscurantism! Second observation: plastic... increasing consumption of cheap Chinese goods and no education on sorting! Results: clogged drains, flooding (right now), rat proliferation, and diseases like cholera... Third observation: we’re letting this amazing heritage of Saint-Louis go to waste—it’s so sad! Meanwhile, millions are being invested in a new city for the rich in Diamniadio (partly funded by China, Saudi Arabia...) In the end, it’s the choice of the Senegalese people! I hope my concerns are unfounded! I can’t wait to see the rest! francia

Hi Francia, thanks for your encouragement!

I don’t have a point of comparison since it was my first time in Senegal. I saw relatively few women wearing black veils in Saint Louis, whereas I saw many more just passing through Dakar. As for Saint Louis, I think things will change because the country doesn’t want to lose its UNESCO World Heritage status... but there’s still a lot of work to be done!

I’ll add to the thread!

As I mentioned to Songhai73, while I saw many black veils during our brief stay in Dakar, I hardly saw any in Saint-Louis.

So... let's talk a bit about elegance!



As I wrote in my introduction, I was struck by the beauty of the young people! But I was even more impressed by the elegance of many people, whether it was the women, who dress like queens to go to the market, or the men, especially the elders, for the end-of-day discussions.











The beauty of the pattern, the colors, the fabric, or the cut... but also the art of draping or throwing on a garment, all with a regal air, because elegance is also about posture and bearing!









In the photo below, you’ll be surprised to see all these women dressed magnificently in the same fabric... but look closely—every dress is different! In fact, it’s a group of women from the same union who came to march on May 1st.



To be continued: the fishermen’s district

Me neither—I never post portraits of women or children anymore. I think it’s a habit we should adopt... we protect the image rights of our own children and ourselves, so why not those of these children and women?

I was most shocked by these displays of strict Islam in southern Burkina, northern Togo, and northern Benin. Women in black and baby girls on their mothers’ backs dressed the same way. In that heat, it must feel like torture. The guys, though, always seem comfortable.

Me neither, I never post portraits of women or children anymore. I think it's a habit to get into... we protect the image rights of our own children and ourselves, so why not those of these children and women?

That's true, I can't say I haven't had these thoughts, but I haven't taken the leap yet. Portraits are one of the things I enjoy most in the travel journals I read or the documentaries I watch, so I haven't yet decided to remove them from my posts... 😐 I never post degrading or negative images involving people—that’s how I’m handling the issue for now at my level.

I’m still reflecting on it... but it won’t be for this travel journal yet!

Okay, but you know in France it can be completely illegal. It's a form of protection... I'm not talking about protection for you, but for all those people whose images could be misused (like that of a snotty-nosed child, for example).

Cambrousse, I respect your point of view. I don’t want to get stuck in this discussion, and if one day the site’s charter asks us not to share photos of people, I’ll comply without any issue. Maybe you can advocate for that—I’ve checked out quite a few travel journals, and I’m not the only one doing this.

you're right, I just wanted to give some context. your photos are beautiful.

Hi,

Great travel journal, amazing photos. I love your pictures of people ;) and can't wait for the next part.

Before getting to the fishermen’s district, a post dedicated to Talibé children

Talibés are young boys aged 5 to 15 who are sent by their families to learn the Quran with a Quranic teacher (called a marabout) in Quranic schools known as Daraas. These are the boys you see begging in the streets or gathered around appliance store windows watching soccer matches. Often from very poor families, they end up cut off from their families and rarely receive a proper education. They live in unsanitary houses, often without water or electricity, and survive solely through begging, which they’re encouraged to do by those who exploit them. Talibés are not only easy victims but are also highly exposed to health problems. They grow up to be adults without guidance or education, suffering from various illnesses or even irreversible disabilities. This is a massive phenomenon—there are said to be over 50,000 in Senegal, and possibly 15,000 in Saint Louis (unverified figures). Many voices are calling for these Daraas to be shut down, but it’s not that simple, as marabouts hold a very important place in Senegalese society.

In Saint Louis, we visited the association "Maison de la Gare", which offers daytime care for children who want it: activities, classes, and leisure time, as well as clothing, sanitation facilities, and medical care (a clinic). The association also maintains a dialogue with marabouts and raises awareness among the population. Vocational training can be provided to older children (sewing on machines, market gardening, etc.).

The "Maison de la Gare" intranet site describes its missions—you can easily find it and learn about their actions and activity reports.

Here are some photos of children at the center when we visited. Kids who were very proud of their classrooms and their creations (like pottery made with one of the teachers) and so happy to receive attention...























Next post: the fishermen’s district

I totally get your desire for photos of the women and men! They’re stunning! As for the Talibé children, I melt—they’re gorgeous... and black and white makes it even better! I’ll have to draw inspiration from them because I have the same model at home—my 6-year-old Franco-Senegalese grandson... and when I look at him and think there are thousands like him in the streets of Senegal 😕, it always moves me deeply! Some are lucky enough to have centers where they receive a little education, food, and care... but many have nothing! Many are beaten, malnourished, or worse.... How can this country let ITS children live in such conditions! The Marabouts are *very* influential with the leaders... they have the MONEY! The little Talibés must return to the Daara every day with a sum that enriches the marabouts! It’s truly a disgrace for this country! I’m not afraid to say it, and I tell some Imams I know this to their faces! 😕 But for a first trip, you don’t really realize it—I know that well! Maybe it’s just a drop in the bucket, but talking about it and sharing might help move the problem forward a little! For Saint Louis, I hope things change, but I don’t believe it much anymore... not after all this time! Anyway, I think your travel journal is amazing and inspiring! It makes me want to visit this beautiful country—I should be there next January! I’ll try to change my perspective! francia

Hello Francia, Optimism is often a weapon to avoid sinking into despair. And indignation is one to give yourself the strength not to resign and to take action. I don’t know if many people on the ground share your indignation or not—I’ve met too few people (apart from those I saw working in the association we visited, but they aren’t in a strategy of direct opposition to the marabouts, no doubt because of the influence you denounce). How strong is civil society in Senegal (outside the political and economic elites)? What is the power of public opinion, and what does it focus on? These are topics that, as a "whirlwind tourist," I couldn’t gauge at all, so I won’t venture into that territory... I just tried to keep my eyes wide open, to see the beautiful things without looking away from the bad ones.

I’m happy you’re enjoying reading my travel journal. Another episode tonight, no doubt!

Guet Ndar, the fishermen's neighborhood



Between the island of Ndar and the ocean, you'll find a neighborhood bustling with life.



It developed on the narrow strip of sand between the river and the ocean. On the river side, hundreds of colorful pirogues are piled up.



It’s built around two north-south streets. The main artery of the neighborhood is lined with stalls and small shops, ending to the south at a square where the day’s catch is sold. All the vendors come here to stock up, and there’s a constant ballet of vehicles loaded with baskets of fish, in an incredible hustle and bustle...



Small streets branch off from the main road, leading on one side to the Senegal River and on the other to the ocean. Everywhere, permanent houses alternate with simple shacks in a haphazard development.





What strikes you first is the sheer number of people... This neighborhood is densely populated; fishermen often have very large families. In the late afternoon when we wandered through, everyone was out in the streets: men chatting among themselves, women, and above all, children—running around among chickens, goats, and sheep. It’s all running, laughing, and shouting in every corner! We stroll around, and no one pays much attention to us, except for the kids who greet us.



























So many colors and contrasts—it’s a real fireworks display!

In the next post, we’ll head far from the city to the Djoudj National Bird Park!

hi there You're right to look for the beautiful things—and there are plenty! Unfortunately, like everywhere, the gap between rich and poor is growing more and more here too. It’s infuriating, and we just have to deal with it! But when it comes to children, I struggle to stay silent, even though it’s pointless... I’ve seen it over time! Looking forward to reading the rest! francia

Wow, beautiful travel journal, great photos! I was actually looking to get a better sense of Saint Louis—might be heading there for work. Can't wait for the rest! Raph

Thanks Raph! It’s nice to get some feedback! Apart from the two other encouraging messages I received, I felt like I was writing into the void! 😕

https://www.facebook.com/afroculturelle/videos/1627250100730176/UzpfSTE1NTM5MzA2NTI6MTAyMTY1Mjc3MDg4NTU5MTU/ You did well to share the elegance!

Fancy a little trip to the Djoudj National Bird Park? About 60 km from Saint Louis (but allow at least 1.5 hours by road) lies the Djoudj National Bird Park, an ornithological reserve of great richness (it’s said to be the 3rd largest bird reserve in the world).

A permanent home for some species and a stopover for migrating birds, it’s located in the Senegal River delta, in a basin, and you explore it by pirogue.

In my post, you’ll see pelicans, egrets, Gambian geese, herons, and more...

Just so you know, we started off by crossing paths with a stunning python (I think it was a Seba python) on the track leading to the park... Roughly 5 meters long, I’d say, and it was pretty impressive!



While we’re on reptiles, we also saw quite a few monitor lizards, in the water or on the banks:





And a crocodile too—they’re said to be quite numerous, but they’re more active at night, and we only saw one:



Oh, and we were amazed by the wild hairstyles of the warthogs—we saw loads of them. Beards, sideburns, side-hair... it was like a fashion show!







So, want to see some birds?







Oops, I’ve hit the 20-photo limit per post...

More from Djoudj in the next message!

Gorgeous thanks

you did well to share l'Elégance

Oh yes, I was really impressed. I saw women in extraordinary outfits, even just going to the market—it was a feast for the eyes. And even when the outfit was more "ordinary," I often noticed an art in the way fabrics were draped and colors combined. So classy!

Thanks Sen! 😉

Djoudj, continued!



The next one’s a bit blurry, but I love its silhouette. This cormorant is weird—when it swims, only its long neck sticks out, like a snake... which is why it’s nicknamed the "snake-bird." For the next photo, I swear from a distance I first thought, "Oh DARN! Plastic bags here too..." But those aren’t black plastic bags hanging from a tree—they’re cormorants!



But... what’s that cloud of gnats in the distance?







Yes, pelicans—hundreds of pelicans!



Successful landing...

Below, a juvenile—they’re brown!



Fishing lesson in 3 steps:









And I really love the last one—look at the pelican on the far right, you can see the fish it just caught in its beak!

I just stumbled upon your travel journal and wanted to congratulate you on your amazing photos!! I love your portraits—they bring so much soul to your story... especially since I’m totally incapable of photographing people (even though I love photography and snap away on every trip!!). How do you do it? Do you ask for permission before taking a shot, or do you photograph from a distance? I always worry about "bothering" people… yet your photos show smiles and poses that clearly mean the people are happy to be in them…

Hi Stéphanie, First of all, thanks for your kind words—it’s really nice of you!

I’ll also send you a private message to reply.

One morning, we had a meet-up with a woman from Saint-Louis to go to the market and then to her place to cook and enjoy Senegal’s signature dish, the thiéboudiène, or "Thieb" for those in the know. So off we went to the other side of the Faidherbe Bridge, where we met up with a tall, elegant woman dressed all in blue, Mame Yacine. I found it fascinating to watch her negotiate, to observe the human interactions, the body language during the transactions.

On the way back, I wrote this piece for my friends, and I’m sharing it with you.

It’s called: "A Powerful Woman"

and it’s a tribute to all those strong women who carry their households on their shoulders, all over the world.

--

Mame Hiacine rules her home in the southern district of Saint-Louis Island with an iron fist. A large house where it’s pleasant to chat in the flower-filled patio, under a veil of shade...

Mame Hiacine holds sway in her kitchen... A revolution for the taste buds, whose only fierceness comes from the chili peppers... but rest assured, she knows how to go easy when cooking for *toubabs*.

Madame Hiacine extends her influence over the market... In the morning, she joins the dance of the elegant women on the other side of the Faidherbe Bridge. With a regal bearing and a proud gait, she cuts through the crowd with a determined step and pounces on a vendor who, seeing her approach, already thinks, *‘This one’s a tough customer—I won’t be able to pull one over on her.’* The power dynamic is firmly in her favor. Mame Hiacine inspects the goods, exchanges a few words, selects some vegetables with feigned indifference, and pays, tossing a crumpled bill or a handful of coins to the vendor with an air of superiority. The power dynamic remains intact.... But if she’s unhappy with the quality or the price, she turns on her heel with a flourish and goes back ten stalls, then moves forward five...

As she weaves back and forth, her bags stretch and grow heavier: tomatoes, carrots, small green cabbages and kohlrabi, squash, eggplants, bissap, baobab fruit, limes, cilantro, okra, onions... No Thiéboudiène without beautiful fish: these will be large *capitaines*, immediately handed over to women who, not far from the fish stalls, scale and gut them. Oh, and don’t forget the rice, the oil, the smoked fish, and the little dried shrimp... Yes, and the tamarind!

Back at her place, Mame Hiacine changes to cook... In her culinary den opening onto the patio, she’s the mistress of flames and pots, yet she works on two simple gas burners set on the floor. The magic can begin! Stuffing, searing, sautéing, frying, blanching, simmering, boiling... Tasting, adjusting... Patiently answering the *toubabs’* questions... and running back and forth to her little restaurant across the street to cook on two fronts at once, phone glued to her ear...

Finally, the tasting... Each of us armed with a fork or spoon, we dig into the shared dishes arranged in a circle around us as we sit on the floor. The group is large since we’ve been joined by the children, back from school, and by Mame Hiacine. The *capitaine*, laid on a bed of melting rice, is surrounded by vegetables. A tamarind sauce is served. The "gratin"—the rice from the bottom of the pot, slightly toasted and crunchy under the teeth—is brought out, one of those humble pleasures that family cooking holds secret, in every corner of the world.

Silence, the clinking of cutlery, sighs of contentment... Today, Mame Hiacine, a powerful woman, treated us to a delicious Thiéboudiène in her home on Saint-Louis Island, Senegal.

--

I’m including a few photos (thanks to my friend Laure for some of them, especially the market shots). I don’t have a picture of Mame Hiacine in her beautiful blue dress for the market—we were too intimidated, and she flitted between the stalls like a bee...









Some of the ingredients:



Two beautiful *capitaines* (that’s what Senegalese call them—I don’t know if they have another name; I’m not very knowledgeable about fish!)

The fish get a little highly seasoned stuffing

Everything is cooked on two gas burners in large pots

a friend who came by for fifteen minutes to lend a hand

The rice pre-steamed before being cooked in the vegetable and fish broth



Oh, this is amazing: a tamarind sauce!



Plating the dish—after that, we were too busy eating!!!



Next post: The Langue de Barbarie Nature Park

Oh no, Fabienne, you're not writing into the void! I discovered your travel journal yesterday and forced myself not to devour it all in one go so I could savor a little more of it this morning!

At last, a recent travel journal about Senegal with a focus on taking beautiful photos. I really like the perspective you've taken—highlighting the beauty of women's attire, men in conversation, the vibrant colors of the cities, and the wildlife. Thank you, and I can't wait for the next installment so we can continue this feast of colors, smiles, and culture!

Thanks Yohan! It makes me happy to know you're reading from the Celestial Empire!

I’ll post the next part after the weekend—we’re taking a little getaway to a small slice of paradise (or so my friends tell me) in the Netherlands, just 2 hours’ drive from my place (I’m from Lille). There’s more to the Netherlands than just Amsterdam (though it’s a gorgeous city), and the countryside can be really beautiful in some spots. If I come back with enough material, I’ll put together a little post about it later!

Ah, that’s for a good cause then! It’s true that one or two travel journals on VF show some absolutely charming spots in the Dutch countryside. Enjoy your trip, and I look forward to reading the rest of your adventures in Senegal.

P.S.: VF isn’t censored here yet, so I’m taking advantage of it while it lasts!

The Langue de Barbarie: Beneath the Blue Waters, Chronicle of a Foretold Disaster





The Langue de Barbarie was originally a narrow strip of sand, a few hundred meters at its widest, stretching continuously for 30 to 40 km from the north of Saint Louis to the mouth of the Senegal River. It *was* stretching, because now a large breach on the ocean side is open and keeps widening, all due to human intervention. In 2003, authorities decided to open a breach, thinking they could control it, to protect Saint Louis from the Senegal River’s floods. It worked for the floods, yes—but nature took over... chain reactions... the breach expanded considerably... until it became the river’s new estuary.

Needless to say, the environmental balance has been completely disrupted, but a new threat now looms over Saint Louis, which is now nearly subject to tidal patterns. This would make it much more vulnerable even to a slight rise in sea levels. And the fishermen’s district is right in the front row...

The Langue de Barbarie natural park is located south of the breach. It’s a 15 km-long bird sanctuary, a few hundred meters to 1 km wide. It includes the spit—so the beach side on the ocean—and the river side. It’s a beautiful place, but its balance and very existence are now threatened. Work is planned, with financial aid (promised) from France, but I’m skeptical about our ability to contain the disaster...

In the meantime, I’ll let you admire the beauty and tranquility of the place...

















That’s it for now—one last little post to come, and then we’ll say goodbye!

A late afternoon in Saint Louis



The air is mild. Over there, on the other side of the bridge, the fishermen’s district is getting livelier, while on the island, the streets seem to be emptying. The area around Place Faidherbe, where the festival is taking place, draws the last street vendors and young people crowding around the commercial stalls.

Along the river, it’s peaceful... golden light, orange glows.

To the south of the island, a group of young boys is playing soccer as night falls.

















With these beautiful end-of-day images, this travel journal also comes to a close! As I wrote at the beginning, we really enjoyed this trip—too short for our liking. We found Senegal and the Senegalese people incredibly endearing.

Fabienne

Hi Fabienne, thanks so much for sharing! have a great day

Thanks for this beautiful finishing touch! While all the photos are lovely, I especially appreciate the one where you see the boat moving forward, with the buildings reflecting in the water in the background and the row of pirogues on the right. Are you sure you don’t have a few bonus photos to keep transporting us to this beautiful country? 🙂

Thanks for this lovely travel journal! Françoise

So glad you liked it, Sen!

Thanks for this lovely travel journal Françoise

Thanks Françoise!

Thanks so much for this beautiful finishing touch! While all the photos are lovely, I particularly appreciate the one where you can see the boat moving forward, with the buildings reflecting in the water in the background and the row of pirogues on the right. Are you sure you don’t have a few bonus photos to keep transporting us to this beautiful country? 🙂

This one? It’s one of my favorites too!

Of course, I have a few more in reserve... but I’ve already posted the best ones!!! And I think I might have already posted too many... My next dilemma will be sorting through our photos from Western Canada, where we went in June/July... For now, I’ll let it all settle!

Looking forward to it, Yohan!

I particularly love the one where you see the boat moving forward, with the buildings reflecting in the water in the background and the row of pirogues on the right.

This one? Me too, it's one of my favorites!

Oh yes, this photo is stunning... the light, the reflections, the color of the boats, and that depth... I'm going to use it as inspiration for a little watercolor painting 😏 Thanks! francia

Yes, that’s the one, and I can see it’s well-deservedly popular. Looking forward to discovering Canada!

Oh France, so glad this inspires you! 😊

Hello, Thank you for this beautiful and very accurate account. Your story is touching. Thanks a million!

Hello, the photos are amazing and perfect to see and share, but the comments could use some refining. For example, why say ( Gorée played a minor role in the slave trade )? Respect, please—how can we underestimate the thousands of children, women, and men who passed through Gorée on their way to distant destinations? How can we visit (I don’t like that word) the places where these people were locked up in appalling conditions, worse than animals, crammed into concrete cells, with only the damp floor to lie on and barely enough food to stay alive (just enough so they wouldn’t starve before the next sale)? How can we not imagine, when standing in front of that (concrete opening) overlooking a beautiful sea, what those who were about to board ships for unknown destinations must have felt?

Photos are great, but Gorée will forever remain a place of remembrance and, above all, reflection for the peoples of Africa. (Though what I can’t stand are the fares for the crossing—one price for Senegalese, another for *Toubabs* (white people)).

Okay, I’m going to try once again to look beyond those beautiful images and sometimes varied texts to touch on a certain reality—ALSO THE REALITY OF THE SENEGALESE THEMSELVES—when it comes to photo reports in general. Those who don’t know Senegal must get a very lovely impression of life there: men at rest, women in colorful boubous, beautiful children, and so on. But what about the rest?

What’s life really like in Senegal? First, it’s important to know that for the vast majority of Senegalese women—behind that colorful boubou—they are the backbone of the household. They wake up very early, around 5 or 6 a.m., to prepare mangoes, charcoal, dried fish, shrimp, sandwiches, ice bags—all to earn a little money at the market or their village or city sales spot. The earnings? 300, 500, 1,000 CFA francs, sometimes more or less. Then they return home to prepare the 2 p.m. meal, often rice and dried fish. Again, the earnings? 300, 500, 1,000 CFA francs, sometimes more or less. They take care of the children, get them ready for school, do the laundry, sometimes go to the bush to gather wood, or work the land as a family. Some do a bit of sewing, or if the kids are sick, they head to the bush dispensary or a much farther health center (transport by cart, 2/5/10 km or more), or even the hospital 60/80/100 km away—for example, in Dakar. It’s also worth noting that mothers are the ones who bring meals to those hospitalized (just like in prisons).

Yes, at the end of the day or during celebrations, mothers wear beautiful boubous (often bought on credit from a traveling vendor or in a shop, paying for the fabric over several weeks or months to have it made by the local tailor). Incredible but true—all this with a radiant smile. These women are truly remarkable in their courage. Jacques

Why state "Gorée played a minor role in the slave trade"—respect, please. How can we underestimate the thousands of children, women, and men who passed through Gorée on their way to distant lands? How can we visit (I don’t like that word) the places where these people were locked in appalling conditions—worse than animals—packed into concrete cells, with only the damp floor to lie on, barely fed (just enough to keep them alive for the next sale)? How can we not imagine, when standing before that concrete opening overlooking a beautiful sea, what those about to board ships for unknown destinations must have felt? Photos are fine, but Gorée will forever remain a place of remembrance and reflection for African peoples. (Though what I can’t stand are the different fares for the crossing—one for Senegalese, another for *toubabs* (white people)).

Hello Jacques, On re-reading, I don’t think I downplayed what Gorée represents, but I’m sorry if it came across that way. I simply noted that while numerically (in terms of the number of enslaved men and women who passed through Gorée), the island wasn’t the main hub of this atrocity (there’s plenty of research on the subject), that doesn’t diminish Gorée’s current role as a symbol—a place of remembrance, memory, and emancipation. It doesn’t lessen the significance of the House of Slaves, whether 1,000, 3,000, or 30,000 people passed through, nor the importance of visiting.. Walking through the House of Slaves, you’re obviously struck by horror, but I didn’t feel the need to put it into words. Some places make any words I could use seem inadequate, and superlatives feel pointless. It’s the same horror I felt deep inside when visiting Nazi death camps in Germany, the same horror I felt in Phnom Penh at the infamous prison where the Khmer Rouge tortured their own people. What also struck me at the House of Slaves was all the young people there—that’s what I tried to capture in my photos.

As for the different prices, they don’t bother me personally. I’ve been to many countries where the gap between "tourists" and locals is huge, and I don’t mind that prices reflect that... I just hope the money goes to the right place and is used to improve facilities and maintain Gorée Island!

Best regards, Fabienne