In the Land of the Tswana (Botswana)

We’ve been back for a month now, so it’s high time I posted the story of our adventures! 😉 I’d also like to thank everyone who shared their own experiences on this forum (or elsewhere) and gave us tips—it really helped us plan our trip.

14/09/2019: Johannesburg - Vryburg After months of waiting and reading other travelers’ journals, it’s finally our turn! We arrived in Johannesburg from Nantes and Paris in the morning. We looked for the Bushlore rep—we’d rented our 4x4 from them—but there was no sign with our name! « Bushlore? She’s a woman, I saw her a few minutes ago, » someone told us. A minute later, the Bushlore employee showed up: a man! 🤪 He sped onto the highway, and just 30 minutes later, we arrived at the rental place. It’s a big operation with good organization and lots of vehicles—pretty reassuring. Our 4x4 was there, a classic Toyota Hilux fully equipped for safari: rooftop tent, dual diesel tanks, 60-liter water reserve, two batteries, two spare tires, all the camping gear, plus everything needed for *désensablement* (getting unstuck from sand). Speaking of which, is it "désensablage" or "désensablement"? Best to just avoid getting stuck in the first place! 😏 Good news… or not: the vehicle was brand new, with barely 100 kilometers on the odometer. On one hand, we figured we wouldn’t have mechanical issues or a fridge breakdown, but on the other, we knew it wouldn’t be easy to return it without a single scratch. Either way, it was our first time renting a 4x4, and we were impressed.



We set off toward Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park—it’s not exactly around the corner! In 1994 (when Mandela had just become President) and 2007, during our two previous trips to South Africa, we loved this park, so we couldn’t imagine going to Botswana without returning. The road was pretty monotonous, with not much to see except a few ostriches.







We stopped for the night in Vryburg at the Kameelboom Lodge campsite. It was a bit noisy since it’s close to the road, and the facilities weren’t great, but it was fine for one night.

Awesome! A new travel journal in Botswana! I’m joining you in this brand-new 4x4!

Solène

Me too, I'm in... Botswana will definitely be our next destination in Southern Africa 😎.

15/09/2019: Vryburg - Kgalagadi The night was chilly: only 6°C. Knowing that supplies in the Kgalagadi would be limited, we stocked up on groceries for several days. But disaster—it’s Sunday, so we couldn’t buy a single bottle of wine or can of beer! Rookie mistake!



In Kuruman, we headed toward Van Zylsrus, a shorter route than going through Upington. The first red dunes appeared, along with large weaver bird nests—this was the start of the Kalahari.





We decided to cross the border at Middleputs. As Girardinpho mentions on his excellent site, this lets you join the new tarred road running along the entire Botswana-side border. While this choice made driving easier, it turned out to be a mistake—the Botswanan customs officer refused to let us bring in any fresh produce we were carrying: fruits, vegetables, and eggs (we had no meat, as there was a real risk it wouldn’t be allowed). Later, when we saw how things worked at the Twee Rivieren/Two Rivers border post—where, apparently, no veterinary checks are done—we realized we should’ve crossed there. Luckily, the officer was so thrilled to immediately find “forbidden” items in the fridge and a stray box in the trunk that he completely forgot to check the large drawer in the trunk where we’d stashed more fruits and veggies. Every little bit saved helps! Note that Middleputs is so quiet that while one official was dealing with us, the other two were playing Candy Crush and watching YouTube videos. The tarred road on the Botswana side is excellent—just watch out for cows, sheep, and ostriches.



Since we were already in Botswana, the administrative formalities to enter Kgalagadi via Twee Rivieren/Two Rivers were quick, leaving us two hours to start exploring the park’s tracks. We were thrilled to return to KTP, straddling South Africa and Botswana—a place full of great memories.



But we’d forgotten that even though the tracks are easy, you don’t drive very fast (that’s not the point anyway), and with stops to watch animals (gemsboks, springboks, wildebeest, kori bustards, etc.), we couldn’t complete the loop via the small cross-track in just two hours.







We reached the Two Rivers camp before nightfall. We’d chosen to stay only in Botswana camps, and the prices are ridiculously low compared to what we’d pay in a South African camp (which are better equipped, admittedly): for two adults and a car, it costs 44 pula for park entry and 60 pula for camping—less than 9 € per day. There are four sites at Two Rivers camp, and only one was occupied—ours, as it turned out. While we were about to set up at another free site, the occupants insisted on clearing theirs for us (apparently, they had a reservation for that night but no site number on their voucher). The facilities are a bit run-down: we were supposed to have hot showers, but there wasn’t even running water. Okay, it’s cheap, but you get what you pay for! First night in the wild, under the full moon, and since the camp is just outside the park, no risk of a lion showing up.

Hi Ludo,

As Girardinpho mentions on his excellent site

Thanks, and sorry to hear you had issues with food at the Middleputs border. For us in 2015, we didn’t have any checks.

I’ll keep following your updates with interest since we’ll likely be heading back to this region next summer.

Thanks, Nathalie. It was still a great idea to join the paved road on the Botswana side. I think the customs officer was a bit overzealous. In the end, it wasn’t too bad—we didn’t starve in the Kgalagadi. 😉 I checked out your site many times before leaving, both for the amazing photos and all the info I could gather. And it was fun seeing the family grow and the kids get older with each trip...

The Botswanan customs officer refused to let us bring in any of the fresh produce we were carrying: fruits, vegetables, and eggs (we didn’t have any meat because there was a real risk it wouldn’t get through)

We’d also wanted to use a smaller border post during our last trip. The South African customs officer had warned us that our supplies wouldn’t be allowed into Botswana. So we opted for the easier option of the park border post, where nothing is ever checked.

Wait for us, we're boarding! 😎

16/09/2019: Kgalagadi When we woke up, we were surrounded by yellow mongooses that weren’t shy at all. Nice!





As soon as the park gates opened, we set off to explore the trails. But we didn’t have much time ahead of us because we had to meet our friends Sylvain and Corinne, and their kids Alex and Claire, at 8:00 AM at the Kgalagadi reception. They’re on a year-long round-the-world trip and just arrived from Madagascar, and we’re supposed to explore Botswana together. We’d agreed on a first meet-up at 8:00 AM, another at 9:00 AM in case one group or the other wasn’t there, and at worst, we’d meet at the Rooiputs camp that evening. At exactly 8:00 AM, we were at the park entrance… but they weren’t! What to do with the little hour we had ahead of us? Knowing we wouldn’t have a chance to shower for the next three or four days, and since the showers at Two Rivers Camp were out of order, we decided to take advantage of the facilities at Twee Rivieren Camp right next door. At 9:00 AM, we were back at the park entrance… and so were our friends! Despite the joy of seeing each other again, we didn’t linger because the trails were waiting for us. To easily communicate between vehicles, we dug out some walkie-talkies that hadn’t been used in years. Old tech can still come in handy when there’s little or no network! We headed toward Mata-Mata. In addition to the usual gemsboks, springboks, wildebeest, ostriches, jackals, and other easily visible animals, we managed to spot a few meerkats.









The excitement rose a notch when we spotted our first feline: a cheetah lying under a tree, unfortunately a bit far from the trail (though we could see it very well with binoculars). Less than ten minutes later, we came across a pair of lions, also napping and far from the trail. A little frustrated not to be able to observe them better, it still gave us confidence for the rest of the trip.





Still a bit surprising in this arid environment, what I’d call "the giraffes of Mata-Mata" (since, as far as I know, you can only see them in this part of the park) were drinking at a waterhole.



The temperature climbed to 38°C! We took a short break at the Mata-Mata camp and took the opportunity to stock up on wine and beer since we hadn’t been able to do so yesterday, Sunday. To get to the Rooiputs camp where we’d spend the night, we’d originally planned to take the main cross-route to the Nossob River valley, but the day seemed too far along, and it was more reasonable to backtrack along the Auob River and take the shorter cross-route. There was almost no one on this trail where we spotted steenboks, recognizable by their large ears.





The Rooiputs camp has eight sites spaced far apart. We had dry toilets, a cold shower (not really cold), and running water. Pure luxury, or almost!



This was the first evening we spent in an unfenced environment, so we made a fire—apparently, it keeps animals away… Well, not the jackal that seemed very interested in our meal! We ended the evening with some old rum from Madagascar brought by our friends.

TUE 17/09/2019 : Kgalagadi During the night, we clearly hear a lion roaring. Far away? Not far? Hard to tell… In the morning, campers from the nearest site come over to see us: - "Did you see the lion last night?" - "Seen? No, but heard? Yes!" - "Yet it passed right here!" And they show us its tracks just thirty meters from the car… We kick ourselves for not trying to see it!



A long day of driving awaits us. Even though we made our reservations nearly eight months in advance, we couldn’t find an available spot at the Nossob or Polentswa camps. So we have to head to Sizatswe, all the way north in the KTP, while we’re currently at Rooiputs, way down south. Luck is on our side because just a few kilometers after leaving camp, a lioness appears in front of us. She walks calmly alongside the track, then stops for a few minutes almost level with us before crossing behind the car and finally disappearing behind a dune. The day is off to a great start!







We stay alert but only see the park’s usual herbivores afterward, along with several bird species, including vultures, chanting goshawks, and bateleur eagles.











While we’re stopped at a waterhole watching gemsboks, we realize that behind us, just over our shoulders, a brown hyena is lying in the shade of a bush. It’s the first time we’ve seen this species, and we’re thrilled. It gets up, walks toward us, but eventually turns back, and we lose sight of it.





A little later, we arrive at Nossob and ask on the off chance if there might be a camping spot available. And just our luck—there is!!! It’s a "premium" site, meaning it has a private bathroom block. The price is pretty steep, especially since we also have to pay a day’s park fee at the South Africa rate, but we don’t hesitate long. We’re too happy to split the trip into two and stay in what’s maybe the best area for spotting big cats. It’s the middle of the day, 38°C, and animals are scarce, so we take a break now that we’ve got a great spot. Later in the afternoon, we head north on the track. At the Kwang waterhole, a car is stopped even though there are no animals around. Odd! The occupants tell us there’s a pair of lions a few hundred meters further on, and they’re waiting there hoping the lions will come to drink. A few hundred meters down the track, there are no fewer than ten cars already clustered together. It’s hard for us to see the lions, who are partly hidden behind a tree. We wait for the vehicles to move a bit. It seems the lions have feasted recently and aren’t likely to leave anytime soon.



It’s the end of the day, and we head back to Nossob camp. We fill up on gas for the days ahead since the next station is far away. At the waterhole, kudus and jackals come to cool off. Jackals are also roaming inside the camp. Another big plus of this unplanned stop at Nossob: we can take a shower!

How lucky to have seen a brown hyena. 🤩 It’s exactly to have a chance to see one too that we’re thinking of maybe heading to Kgalagadi next year.

Lucky me. I think this hyena is gorgeous!

Amazing encounter with the brown hyena! Never seen one myself before. It reminds me of Mark and Delia Owens' book *The Cry of the Kalahari*.

Amazing! Indeed, the brown hyena and the magnificent lioness 😊 For the lion at night, you’d need a camera trap like Sylvie used in Kenya—it’s awesome! 😄

18/09/2019: Kgalagadi

The sun hasn’t risen yet when we leave Nossob for the Rooikop waterhole, a few kilometers to the south, where a leopard was spotted the day before. We stay for about fifteen minutes, but no animals show up.



We continue to the Marie Se Draai loop. Big cat tracks are clearly visible on the trail, but none appear—just kudus, springboks, and gemsboks. A handsome goshawk keeps watch over the waterhole.







We head back toward Nossob, as the journey to Sizatswe today is quite long. Along the way, we stop briefly at Rooikop just in case the leopard decided to make an appearance—but no luck! Just as we’ve barely left the waterhole, our friends following just a hundred meters behind shout over the walkie-talkie, "The leopard’s coming!!!". Quick reverse, careful not to scare the animal, we keep our distance. It drinks for three minutes, then leaves and disappears into the tall grass. You really had to be there at the right moment—it all came down to a few seconds!





North of Nossob, we arrive at the spot where we’d seen a pair of lions the day before. Incredible—they haven’t moved! The male is still well hidden behind a tree, and the female is a bit more visible. They seem to still have food and aren’t about to leave. Just like yesterday, the lioness gets up and moves about twenty meters away. A vulture watches the scene.







Further on, just before Polentswa, we spot an animal lying on the trail. We stop at a safe distance and scan it with binoculars—it’s a lioness! We slowly approach until we’re level with her (luckily, the trail is wide here). She doesn’t budge, not even opening an eye! We stay a while and observe her from every angle: she’s got flies in her nostrils. But since she seems fast asleep, we decide to move on.











At Kannaguass, we leave the well-maintained South African trails and head toward Kaa in the far north. For the first time, we face the deep sand of Botswana’s tracks. The sand itself isn’t a problem—the Toyota Hilux handles it well. The issue is that the trail is often narrow and lined with acacias with sharp thorns: hard to avoid scratches on the brand-new bodywork! We spot gemsboks and steenboks near the trail, seemingly unaccustomed to vehicles. Driving requires constant attention and is pretty tiring for us inexperienced drivers. Twice, in more open areas, we stop for about ten minutes to rest a little, while still keeping an eye out for predators.







It takes us a good three hours to reach Kaa from Kannaguass. Just before arriving, our friends’ 4x4 makes a strange noise. A quick check reveals that the underbody protection plate has partly come loose. Despite its thickness, it’s now completely bent under the vehicle and scraping the ground. We decide to push on to Kaa Gate before dealing with it. Once there, the rangers immediately help us unscrew the remaining bolts and remove the plate entirely. Given its thickness, there’s no way we can fix it ourselves. Oh well, our friends will have to do without it for the rest of the trip!





Normally, we’d continue to Sizatswe, where we have a reservation for tonight. However, there are two campsites at Kaa, but they’re emergency spots for those arriving at Kaa Gate from outside without a booking. From the start, we’d planned to negotiate with the rangers to camp at Kaa. First, because Sizatswe has no facilities—not even dry toilets. But also because tomorrow we face a long drive to Ghanzi, and leaving from Sizatswe would add an extra hour. Given how late it is, the rangers agree without hesitation. Great! Plus, we get to use decent restrooms with running water and showers. Before nightfall, we have a little time to visit a waterhole about ten kilometers away: we only see kudus, springboks, and wildebeests. Back at camp, we’re visited by a fearless honey badger.



After this long, eventful day, we enjoy some Amarula.

19/09/2019: Kgalagadi - Ghanzi In the middle of the night, we’re woken up by the roar of a lion. After hearing it a second time, it’s clear—it’s getting closer! Disappointed we missed the one that had crossed the Rooiputs camp two days earlier, we’re determined not to let this second chance slip by. The rooftop tent is an excellent observation post. We crack open the tent flaps. The moon is almost full, and we can see the surroundings pretty well. Suddenly, a shape appears and moves closer. No doubt about it—it’s a lion, or rather a lioness, perfectly visible as she passes ten meters from the car. But another roar proves she’s not alone. A few moments later, a lion approaches, right in front of us. We’re both excited and terrified when he stops just a few meters away and lets out a massive roar. We hold our breath. We’re frozen… Well, not entirely, since we try to capture the moment with a photo. Wide angle and rough focus in the dark… Too bad, the photo’s blurry!



Completely unfazed, the lion leaves, brushes past the car, sniffs a friend’s vehicle tire, then disappears into the dark. Needless to say, we didn’t get much sleep the rest of the night. At dawn, we climb down carefully and check out the paw prints left by the big cats. Our friends had heard them too but didn’t dare open their tent. We don’t have time to waste this morning—the drive to Ghanzi promises to be long.



At Kaa Gate, we sign the KTP exit register. The previous travelers left two days ago, and the ones before that just a week earlier—the area is really quiet! The track toward Zutshwa is deep sand, but it’s wider than the last one in Kgalagadi, so driving is a bit easier. There are still a few wild animals around.





We arrive in Zutshwa with a strong wind kicking up a lot of dust. Locals wave as we pass. There’s a 50 pula toll here (no one checked when we passed), which you can pay in rand, euros, or US dollars if needed.







Further on, we pass through the small town of Hukuntsi. Though it has several gas stations and plenty of shops, we keep going to Kang, especially since the last stretch is paved. In Kang, we withdraw our first pulas from an ATM. We also get our tires reinflated (we could’ve/should’ve done it in Hukuntsi) and fill up on gas, including the two extra jerry cans we rented from Bushlore. The rental company was a bit surprised we needed jerry cans on top of the Hilux’s double tank. Let’s just say it’s for peace of mind, especially for the five or six days north of Maun with no possible resupply. The road to Ghanzi is pretty monotonous. Suddenly, a big truck coming toward us flashes its lights. What did we do wrong? Are we speeding? Losing the rooftop tent? Not at all! It’s just to warn us there are elephants by the road. We also spot hartebeest, ostriches, and vultures.





When we arrive in Ghanzi, we head to the lush Kalahari Arms Hotel and Campsite, where we’d planned to spend the night, but it’s fully booked and we hadn’t reserved. So we go to Thakadu Bush Camp, just south of town. The campsites and facilities are decent. There’s a small watering hole where different antelope species come to drink—sometimes rarer animals too, but we don’t see any.







We’re mostly worried by the signs warning about thefts and advising not to leave anything visible in the car. The camp also has (slow) Wi-Fi, which lets us update our families and friends.

09/20/2019: Ghanzi - Central Kalahari We finish up yesterday’s big shopping with the purchase of firewood and fill up on gas in preparation for the days ahead. We’re heading to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, where resupplying will be impossible. After about an hour on the road to Maun, we turn right toward the CKGR. The sandy track forces us to deflate the tires, but we make pretty good progress until Tsau Gate, the northeast entrance to the reserve.



Elephant droppings are everywhere here, and the friendly ranger who checks us in suggests we head to the waterhole just one kilometer south. There’s no doubt elephants are in the area, but unfortunately, we don’t spot any. We continue for about thirty kilometers along the track that runs along the northern boundary of the reserve. It’s relatively easy to drive but monotonous, and the vegetation blocks the view of any animals that might be around. A few steenboks, lying in the shade, bolt as we pass. When we turn due south toward Motopi Pan, the track gets tougher. Alternating between deep sand, corrugated sections, and ruts, it’s narrow and lined with acacias that scratch the car. Sometimes, the vehicle lurches sharply from side to side or bounces violently. The drivers, who still have little experience with 4x4s, have to stay focused.







Plus, the vegetation still blocks most of the view, which isn’t much fun. It gives us the feeling that the Central Kalahari is truly wild and has to be earned. The landscape becomes nicer when we enter Passarge Valley: the vegetation is less dense, the dry grassy savanna looks like the classic African bush, and wildlife becomes more visible (springboks, giraffes, gemsboks, ostriches).



















Suddenly, emergency brake! There’s a feline shape lying in the shade of a bush about ten meters from the track… It’s a leopard! Unfortunately, it’s barely visible behind the tall grass… We wait a while in case it decides to move… And we’re glad we did because it stands up, but ultimately heads in a direction that takes it away from us. Too bad—we didn’t get a good look at it!





The sun starts to set, and the Kalahari becomes stunning. The track is still long until campsite CKPAS1, where we arrive just before nightfall, pretty exhausted. Dry toilets, out-of-service bucket shower: at 130 € (for the six of us), yes, the Central Kalahari has to be earned—financially too! Even though the vegetation is quite thick, the site overlooks the plain and is rather nice. We spend a pleasant evening around the fire, recapping the day that’s ending and looking ahead to the next one. The friends don’t want to wake up at dawn, so we’ll start the morning on our own.

That’s wild! Lions crossing the camp at Kaa Gate—we had the exact same experience. They roared through the camp in the middle of the night, and we found them at the nearby watering hole the next morning. During the crossing, we didn’t dare peek out of the tent—let’s just say it was a ground tent… The next morning, after their nap at the watering hole, the lions crossed the camp again in the opposite direction. It really seems like this is a resident pride that’s been there for years, and this kind of adventure must happen all the time. Kaa Gate campsite comes *highly* recommended! 😎

Even though it was hidden, it's a real treat to have spotted a leopard!

That’s absolutely true: quite a few travelers have mentioned seeing lions near the Kaa Gate camp. They were clearly patrolling their territory, and it seemed like a regular thing...

Hi Ludo,

I’ve finally caught up on my backlog!

More amazing encounters! 🤗 This time, we’re definitely heading to this region next year!

I have three quick questions:

1. Is it possible to restock food supplies in Hukuntsi? Or do we absolutely have to go to Ghanzi?

2. Why did you enter the Central Kalahari through Tsau Gate instead of Xade Gate?

One last question for anyone who can answer:

3. Do you think it’s possible to make the trip from Xade Gate to Kaa Gate in one day?

If you paid close attention, on the day of 09/18/2019, we had already spotted a leopard—and even observed it really well. If that hadn’t been the case, I think we would’ve been pretty frustrated to have only seen this one behind tall grass. But the trip isn’t over yet... 😉

Hi Nathalie, In response to your questions...

1. Although we didn’t stop there, Hukuntsi is a real small town where we spotted one or two supermarkets (and gas stations). So it seems entirely possible to skip Ghanzi.

2. From Ghanzi, the distance is roughly the same between Tsau Gate and the CKGR entrance via Xade. Since there’s a large stretch of paved road to the north, it’s probably faster to reach the Central Kalahari that way. That said, I’d read here and there that you don’t see many animals outside Passarge Valley and Deception Valley, and that the tracks to the south are lined with vegetation that doesn’t offer great visibility (though I’ll admit the arrival via Tsau Gate isn’t great either). Honestly, I don’t have a strong reason—just that it was our first trip to Botswana, and we wanted to get to the essentials. Gotta save something for the next trip! 😎

3. That sounds tough! You know the CKGR pretty well, so you’re aware the tracks aren’t exactly smooth, with some deep ruts. Not to mention the animals you’ll definitely see and stop for, for varying lengths of time. So I’ll turn the question back to you: you usually take your time—why rush such a long drive in a single day? 😉

😅 A mistake slipped into my question 3!

I wanted to know if it’s possible to do Xade Gate (CKGR) to Kaa Gate (KTP) in one day, not Xade Gate to Tsau Gate. 😅 I’ve corrected it in my first question.

Otherwise, thanks for the other answers!

It’s indulgent but doable. I’m asking myself the same question for my trip there in April-May. We’re doing Kang-Piper Pan, which is pretty much the same route in reverse. Instead of taking the road toward Ghanzi, though, we’ll take the cutline that starts 20 km north of Kang and meets the CKGR fence, which we’ll then follow north all the way to Tsau. People who’ve been that way told me the western track to Tsau Gate is really rough, but the cutline is good, as is most of the track along the fence.

It’s indulgent but doable. I’m asking myself the same question for my trip there in April-May. We’re doing Kang-Piper Pan, which is roughly the same route but in the opposite direction. However, instead of taking the road toward Ghanzi, we’re going to take the cutline that starts 20 km north of Kang and meets the CKGR fence, which we’ll then follow north all the way to Tsau. People who’ve been that way told me the western track to Tsau Gate is really rough, but the cutline is good, as is most of the track along the fence.

Thanks, I’ll take this info into account!

Otherwise, we’d thought about doing the trip in two days, but looking at the remaining bookings at KTP, we’d have to arrive a day earlier at Kaa Gate, and we’re not too keen on skipping a night in the CKGR.

It's hard for me to answer about the route between Xade Gate (CKGR) and Kaa Gate (KTP) because I don’t know the condition of the track leaving Xade Gate.

Here’s the discussion on 4x4 Community: https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/314368-Mabuasehube-Hukuntsi-Polentswa/page2

Drove 33 km to Kang, fueled up, and then north on the tar road for 51 km to the next cut line, heading easterly toward the SW point of the CKGR park. Had coordinates from T4A. Not signposted but obvious. This section was sandy for about 5 km, with a few farm roads leading off, but great after that for 35 km from the tar road. At this point, we reached a T-junction and turned north along a new cut line on the western border of CKGR.

This cut line is 121 km long and mostly undriven and smooth, sandy with a few sections of corrugations. At about 86 km from the T, there’s a pan with quite a lot of game, typical of CKGR—Pipers or Phokoje Pans. Nice area to stop and maybe wild camp if needed, though off the pan is suggested. At 93 km, a very sandy section where the track was difficult to drive, sometimes requiring low ratio, but you could drive on the side of the twin track in the firebreak area, which was grassy and sometimes bushy. A bit tricky since the bushes hid the driving surface, posing a modest risk of punctures. This section was about 25 km long, with heavy fuel consumption as you switched from side to side. Eventually, you hit a farm and a small corrugated, uneven, and sandy section, after which much of the same as the rough bit at 93 km, but mostly better.

Then we reached the east-west route to Xade. From the intersection, it was 25 km to Xade, with about 20 km absolutely terrible—very broken, uneven, corrugated, sandy, and cross-axle. Not a great drive. We were told the route west from the cut line is tough, with very poor soft sand sections requiring low-low dune-like tire pressures, diff locks, low ratio, and more. We didn’t see or drive this, though.

09/21/2019: Central Kalahari Up at dawn, we’re not in the Central Kalahari for relaxation! The night was absolutely quiet: not a single insect buzz, no bird calls, not even a lion’s roar. As the sun barely rises, we head toward Sunday Pan Waterhole! The track is pretty rough—narrow and full of ruts. It takes us twice as long as expected to reach the watering hole. Wildlife is already active: jackals, steenboks, bustards, gemsboks, guinea fowl, and more.







Just before arriving, we spot fresh feline tracks on the track. They can’t be far—maybe at the waterhole… But no! The waterhole is huge, yet there’s not a single animal, not even an antelope. What a letdown! We backtrack, drawn by the name of the place: we head out to circle Leopard Pan. We see a honey badger digging in a hole, probably searching for food.





To the south of the pan, a short track leads into a cluster of trees, then a second one a bit farther. No leopard here, but a young lion is lying in the second grove. He seems to be waking up. Just a few meters away, we watch him stretch and yawn. Then he stands, walks about ten meters, and lies down again. We’re alone with the big cat, and selfishly, we appreciate this encounter even more.













Our campsite for the next night isn’t far, so we go check it out. At CKSUN1, it’s also dry toilets and a bucket shower out of service, but we paid less than 12 €. In the CKGR, some sites like yesterday’s have been privatized and cost 10 times more than those still managed by Botswana’s national parks, like today’s—yet the facilities are identical. Let’s talk about the toilets: not exactly clean, and especially with huge ants constantly crawling in and out of the bowl—total mood killer!



After this little break, we go back to see “our” lion since it’s so close. He hasn’t moved an inch! A car enters the pan via the small track, circles the first grove, then turns back without continuing to the second cluster of trees. Too bad for them!







With the lion completely inactive, we head back to Sunday Pan Waterhole. This time, large herds of springboks and gemsboks take turns at the waterhole.



We continue south and complete a big loop, returning to Leopard Pan. The track is in really bad shape, and in the hottest hours, there’s little wildlife to observe. For a moment, we think “our” lion has left, but he’s just moved twenty meters away, into the shade of an isolated tree in the pan. We drive slightly off the track to get closer. He’s still just as lethargic, so we head back to Sunday Pan Waterhole again. Waterholes are so rare in the CKGR that we hope it’ll be a parade of animals, but it’s not really the case—just a few gemsboks. However, we run into our friends. We tell them there’s a lion in Leopard Pan and guide them there.





We circle the pan again—the light is gorgeous. Then we go set up at our campsite. As the crow flies, the lion is only a kilometer away, and he’s probably not alone, so we stay alert and don’t linger outside too long in the evening.

Hi Ludo

That lion doesn’t look well at all 🤪. I think he’s really thin.... and aren’t those porcupine quills stuck in his neck? Muriel

Hi Muriel. After carefully reviewing all the lion photos, there’s no porcupine quill stuck in its neck, but when you zoom in on one of the shots, you can clearly see one lodged in its front paw.

09/22/2019 (Part 1): Central Kalahari

This morning again, we're up at dawn and leave camp as the sun is just rising. Our friends are struggling to keep up with our pace and decided to get up later. We heard some hyena calls during the night, but no visitors to report. So we head out alone toward Deception Valley—it's just 9°C (48°F).



The track is in really bad shape, forcing us to stop regularly to pass very slowly. We spot some bat-eared foxes, unfortunately quite far away. Also jackals, ground squirrels, and korhaans. We pass by the site where the OWENS couple settled in the 1970s to study the Kalahari’s wildlife. Their fascinating book, *The Cry of the Kalahari*, is of course in our luggage, and we try to imagine what their life was like for seven years in this wild environment.









Every now and then, we stop and scan the distance with binoculars to see if a big cat isn’t lounging under a tree… Usually, it’s just a log, but this time I shout, "Here, three lions!" After double-checking, my co-pilot confirms. Small problem: they’re about 200 meters off the track, and the reserve’s rules say you have to stay on the tracks. Oh well, the temptation’s too strong—and besides, we haven’t seen a single vehicle all morning. So we break the rules and slowly approach the lions. Turns out there aren’t three but six—two male lions and four lionesses!















We feel a little surge of pride for having found this group of big cats, and selfishly, we enjoy the moment even more because we’re alone with them. It’s not even 9 AM, but they’re already dozing. Well, not *that* dozy—whenever the sun hits their bodies, they get up, move a few meters, and lie back down. So they’re actually pretty active, shifting around and cuddling.

Wow! So many lions in just two days, but I guess it’s not over yet ;) 😎

09/22/2019 (Part 2): Central Kalahari

We’ve been watching the six lions for nearly two hours when a car approaches—the first we’ve seen since leaving camp about four hours ago. It’s our friends, who spotted us from the track and figured if we were there, there must be a good reason. We stay with them for a few minutes, then leave and continue west along Deception Valley, which today is living up to its name rather poorly. We spot several groups of giraffes, most of them standing in the shade of thickets—it’s already very hot. At Letiahau Waterhole, the wildlife is sparse: just some guinea fowl. We stop for a bit anyway, but no other animals come to drink.









A little further west (as Professor Calculus would say), we come across three lionesses lying under acacia trees right by the track. They’re not completely lethargic, though not very active either, so we watch them for a good while.







We continue a bit further west, but with so few animals around (it’s really hot at this time of day!), we decide to turn back. We pass by the three lionesses again and can’t help but watch them once more.





The same goes for the group of six lions further on—they haven’t moved much since the morning. Their positions are really funny: sprawled on top of each other or asleep with all four paws in the air.







The day is already well underway, and since we passed through earlier, we know the track to our campsite tonight is rough and full of ruts. Still, never satisfied, we leave the main track to circle Deception Pan, where we see a few antelopes and some ground squirrels.















In the late afternoon, we settle in at Kori Campsite #4 (CKKOR4). The bucket shower is out of order again, but the view is relatively open, and the spot is pretty nice.

And the record day is still to come! Patience... 😉

And yet, the record day is still to come! Patience... 😉

I'm already speechless! 🤯

09/23/2019: Central Kalahari - Makgadikgadi

We’re up bright and early and head toward Matswere Gate. We leave the Central Kalahari with a bit of regret, even though the lack of showers is starting to get to us. 🤪 At the gate, the welcome is as friendly as ever, and we’re asked to report if we’ve seen any lions, leopards, or other rare animals. Outside the reserve, the track is a little better, but still sandy. We spot a few more antelopes, but it’s mostly large herds of cattle that slow us down.



We reach the paved road at Rakops, where we inflate the tires and fill up on diesel. This big village seems very lively: there’s a market and lots of people in the streets, including Herero women dressed in their stunning traditional outfits. Our food supplies are still plentiful, which is just as well since the shops are pretty poorly stocked. At the butcher’s right across from the gas station, there’s no meat for sale, and in another similar shop, just frozen chickens. We were hoping for better!





We hit the road again toward Khumaga. It’s a relief not to be driving in sand and dust anymore, but we know it won’t last. Suddenly, we slam on the brakes—there are three elephants right by the side of the road! In Khumaga, we turn off toward Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. The Boteti River is dry, and it’s hard to imagine it ever being full of water. Anyway, the ferry is there, stranded on the ground, and we cross a small waterhole without any trouble to reach the opposite bank. The park entrance is right there, and we’re warned to watch out for vervet monkeys—they’re big thieves.





Zebras, wildebeest, kudus, and impalas—the herbivores are already very visible. But before exploring the Boteti River, we stop at the campsite for a bit, since a shower is absolutely necessary. The track overlooking the river is in deep sand, and we have to watch out for zebras and impalas darting out. Taking a small side track to the left, we end up right above a large group of hippos lying by the water. Even better, we can climb down into the riverbed!







Though there’s generally little water, we find the landscape much greener compared to the yellowed vegetation of the Central Kalahari. The wildlife is abundant: giraffes, large herds of zebras and wildebeest, as well as many elephants and various bird species (vultures, marabous, ibises, etc.). We’re truly amazed by this stunning natural setting. We watch the elephants for a long time, keeping a reasonable distance—though not everyone does. We drive a bit randomly through the riverbed, of course being careful not to scare the animals or get stuck in the mud.



















To climb back up the riverbank, we shift into low gear for the first time—the slope is steep and the sand very soft. It works! We’re getting better at driving the 4x4, but we’re still a bit out of our league for the Dakar! 😉 We continue along the track overlooking the river, then head back to camp just before nightfall.

09/24/2019: Makgadikgadi - Nxai This morning, the vervet monkeys invaded the camp. We stay vigilant when packing our things because they quickly sneak into the cars to swipe something.



We return to the Boteti River bed. Activity is much quieter than the day before, but we still spot giraffes, wildebeest, impalas, and several bird species. So, we don’t linger too long here and head toward Phuduhudu Gate in the north of the park. The sand is still deep, so we keep our speed very moderate. Despite a few tricky spots, we don’t get stuck. The vegetation is dense, and we see few animals. As always when leaving reserves, we sign the register: we’re the first to exit this way today. We reach the paved road connecting Maun to Nata, but for the ten kilometers needed to get to the entrance of Nxai Pan National Park, we don’t have the energy to reinflate the tires. I’ll say it again—the welcome at the park entrance is very warm. The rangers even try a few words of French. The track heading north is wide but quickly becomes boring. After about twenty kilometers, we turn toward the Baines Baobabs area. The partly charred vegetation and smell of smoke indicate the area recently had a fire.



The drive feels really long, but discovering the giant baobabs along the edge of the vast pan quickly makes us forget the monotony of the track and the near absence of animals. The sense of isolation is immense. However, at this time of day, the light isn’t ideal for photos.











It would’ve been nice to sleep around here, but we chose to stay at South Camp. We find the track heading north just as uninteresting, and right along the edge, the savanna is on fire.



When we arrive at South Camp, the regular presence of elephants is obvious—there’s so much dung. Not to mention the restrooms, which are surrounded by a barrier to keep the pachyderms out. An elephant is right there, next to the toilets, siphoning the wastewater! After a short break, we head out to explore the park’s tracks.



With the smoke from the fires, the sky looks strange—completely opaque. Wildlife is really scarce, but elephant dung is everywhere. We head to the only permanent waterhole. When we arrive, a large elephant is drinking. Then, a continuous parade of elephant groups follows. Two giraffes try to approach but eventually give up. There are lots of cars, as if this were the only place to see animals. We watch the pachyderms bathe, splash, and play noisily in the water for a long time. We’re in the front row—maybe even a little too close when some of them decide to leave the waterhole. We make a quick exit!















After a quick spin on other tracks, we return to the waterhole for sunset—absolutely stunning! We stay almost until nightfall.





Back at camp, while we’re preparing dinner, an elephant passes just ten meters away. To save some wood, we burn dung. During dinner, we spot a bright yellow spider just a meter from our table, then a yellow scorpion walks by our feet. Later, we also find a tarantula and a black scorpion right in front of the toilets. This place is a little sketchy! 🤪 Especially since the bushfire isn’t far—we can see the glow of the flames.

https://voyageforum.com/images/posts/small/1577362592-02KtmmtVhRF33MO.jpg

This story is really interesting! I know Namibia and South Africa a bit, but not Botswana. It’s giving me ideas! 😉

Glad my travel journal’s giving you some trip ideas! Sorry I’m not posting my story faster—I’m a little short on time these days...

25/09/2019: Nxai - Maun Before leaving Nxai Pan National Park, we head to the watering hole where elephants had gathered the day before, but no animals are there. It takes us an hour to reach the paved road via the same track as yesterday—monotonous and not exactly easy. Fortunately, the road toward Maun is more relaxing, even if there are a few potholes. You mainly need to watch out for zebras, giraffes, and warthogs roaming outside any reserves.





When we arrive in Maun, we’re surprised to see cows, donkeys, and goats roaming freely in the streets—after all, it’s a big city by the country’s standards. It also seems very lively and far from the description Delia and Mark OWENS gave in their book *The Cry of the Kalahari*. Still, there’s nothing much to do here except that it’s the gateway to the Okavango Delta!!! ;) And that’s exactly why we rush to the small airport to book a (partial) scenic flight over the delta for today or tomorrow. The first company we’d spotted, Mack Air, has no availability for three days. But luckily, Major Blue Air offers us a flight for the same day at 4:00 PM. Perfect! That gives us time to take a little break at Maun Rest Camp, a campsite a few kilometers north of the city. The site is quiet and wooded, right by a completely dried-up river. Back at the airport, we all board the same plane. Everyone has a window seat—it’s perfect! And you can even sit in the co-pilot’s seat… just don’t touch the controls! There’s a strong wind, and the pilot warns us it’s going to be bumpy!





Even though it’s the dry season, the colors are stunning—yellows, greens, blues. Still, we have to admit we were expecting to see more wet areas. It’s yet another sign that a severe drought is currently affecting Southern Africa. At another time of year, the delta would surely have looked completely different.











We’re thrilled to spot elephants, giraffes, zebras, hippos, as well as huge herds of buffalo and wildebeest. As expected, the turbulence is significant, and several people in the plane get airsick, but we enjoy every moment.











For us, the Okavango Delta is a somewhat mythical place we’ve dreamed about for a long time—we’re over the moon!











Unfortunately, the pilot turns back toward Maun. The crosswind landing is pretty impressive, but everything goes smoothly.



Before heading back to the campsite, we stop by the "liquor shop" since our supplies are running low.

09/26/2019: Maun Like in the Tour de France, today was kind of a rest day for us. So, we didn’t get up until 8:00 AM—a first on this trip. There was a lot of wind all night, and it’s still going. Unlike the photos you see on the Maun Rest Camp website or Google Street View, the Thamalakane River, where we’re camping, is completely dry. A bit disappointing! It’s overrun with cows… we would’ve preferred hippos!



We still head out for a walk in the riverbed until we reach a small waterhole where a few fishermen are casting their lines. To our surprise, the place is crawling with crocodiles—about fifteen of all sizes. There are also some fishing birds and several monitor lizards. We spend a good while watching the crocs since the terrain lets us observe them up close without any risk.





























We spend most of the day resting and reading. In the afternoon, we go shopping since there won’t be any chance to stock up for the next five or six days, and we fill up on gas. We stop by the craft market by the roadside. There are some cool things, and everyone tries to convince us they made everything they’re selling themselves.

Lovely photos of the crocodiles. You’d think we were right next to them ;)

We were really close, actually, but overlooking the waterhole, so in a risk-free area (specifically from the Old Bridge Backpackers).

27/09/2019 (Part 1): Maun - Moremi

We leave Maun heading for Moremi. We pass lots of children on their way to school, and whether they're little or big, it seems like they're all in school. That's great!



About thirty kilometers north, the paved road turns into a dirt track, but it's still pretty smooth. Twenty kilometers further on, we reach a veterinary gate, but there's no check in this direction—just a little wave and we carry on. Before arriving in Moremi, we already spot elephants and giraffes, some of which cross without warning. 🙂









Since we didn’t manage to get a spot in the camps inside the reserve (even though we booked eight months in advance), we’re a bit nervous when we enter: will we be allowed to visit? But since we’ve booked several nights at Mbudi Campsite, just ten kilometers from Khwai, there’s no issue. Phew!



We head toward Black Pool and Xini Lagoon. The landscape is more wooded than in the reserves we’ve visited so far, but not much greener. Even though we’re right next to the Okavango Delta, it’s still pretty dry. The animals are plentiful, though: giraffes, warthogs, zebras, impalas, and more, but especially *lots* of elephants. Sometimes solitary, but mostly in groups, we can clearly see all the generations—adults, teens, and tiny baby elephants.









This zebra’s really beat up 😮

hi, wow, I devoured this and can't wait for the rest! I think I've found our next trip. after Kenya, northern Tanzania, and southern Tanzania, this is the trip I'm excited about! thanks for these amazing photos🙂 thanks

Thanks, Nathalie. I really need to speed up posting my travel journal online because right now, I feel like it’s dragging a bit.

Anyway, I highly encourage you to travel to Botswana. One important note: you have to plan *way* in advance (a year, maybe even more?) because accommodation options are limited, especially in Moremi, Savuti, and Chobe. We booked 8 months ahead and still couldn’t get spots in the camps in those reserves. So we had to improvise, but we still saw a lot. That said, I do have a little regret about not being able to sleep inside Moremi (even though we were just on the edge) because in the end, it turned out to be my favorite reserve.

09/27/2019 (Part 2): Moremi

The reserve is large, and we realize we won’t be able to head much farther west. So we turn back to get closer to North Gate.



Not nice to stick out your tongue 😛

At Hippo Pool, the hippos are out in full force. A large group of elephants comes to drink.









By chance, we then enter the marshy area in the northeast of the park, not far from North Gate, more or less along the Khwai River. The wildlife there is incredibly rich, with lots of birds, waterbucks, baboons, and a whole bunch of other species.













We would’ve loved to linger there, but the sun is starting to set, and we need to head back to our camp outside the reserve.

We stop for a few moments to take photos of the Khwai River bridge (the other one! 😉), while our friends continue on. We’re no more than five minutes behind them.



Khwai Village

A few kilometers past Khwai Village, several vehicles are stopped, including our friends’. We communicate with them via walkie-talkie: three African wild dogs were there, but they’ve just disappeared. What a letdown for us—we’ve never seen them before! We arrive at Mbudi Campsite as night falls. The welcome is friendly, and the facilities are decent, with running water and hot showers. But most of all, the view from the four sites along the Mbudi River is absolutely stunning. We don’t know it yet, but this will probably be the most beautiful spot of the whole trip.



We can hear hippos nearby, and the many elephant droppings show that pachyderms are in the area.

09/28/2019 (Part 1): Moremi

During the night, we heard hippos grazing near the tent, and also the roar of a lion—fortunately farther away. A bit frustrated that we hadn’t been able to venture deep into the Moremi Reserve the day before, we decided to wake up early enough this morning to be at the ‘gate’ right when it opened at 6:00 AM. Our friends weren’t as brave and preferred to delay their departure a bit. It was still pitch black and only 6°C (43°F) when we got up. Though we’re used to it by now, it always takes a little time to pack up the tent and get ready. After about twenty minutes on the track, we arrived at the North Gate. It was 6:02 AM, and no ranger was on duty. Oh well, no need to sign the register, and since we already had our permit for today, we didn’t consider ourselves in the wrong!

Even though our goal for the day was to reach Third Bridge (and return), we started by heading to the marshy area on the right just after entering the park. The light was gorgeous, and we spotted the first animals of the day: zebras, warthogs, and waterbucks.



Suddenly, we saw two African wild dogs appear right in front of us. Actually, they were coming from everywhere, and eventually, a pack of about twenty-five individuals approached. As if by magic, they settled near the track, just ten meters away from us. We were over the moon! We’d narrowly missed three wild dogs yesterday, but this was even better! Two of them wore tracking collars, proof that the pack was being monitored. While most of the adult dogs rested, with a few keeping watch, the pups acted like pups—they ran around, pounced on each other, and playfully nipped at each other’s ears. Adorable!

















Since we’d done our homework 🙂, we knew that wild dogs are often followed by hyenas, so we scanned the bush. And sure enough, there was one—followed by a second! They kept their distance, but we managed to get closer before they disappeared into the tall grass. The day was off to an amazing start!









We continued our journey westward. As we progressed, the wetlands became more extensive, and the wildlife remained abundant.

How lucky to have met those African wild dogs! 🐺