We’re back from an amazing trip to Northern India, which was incredible largely thanks to our driver Harpal, who accompanied us for nearly three weeks. Harpal isn’t just a driver—he’s also a guide. He knows the region perfectly and showed us the authentic side of India, with stops along the way to see peanut farmers at work, a family making bricks, an unlikely temple where devotees offer whisky to the deity, and so much more. Not to mention the conversations over a cup of chai!

Harpal is a very cautious driver, speaks English fluently, is attentive, and incredibly kind. On our first day, his family welcomed us like friends at their home in his village, and we even took part in a wedding celebration—an unforgettable moment. We contacted him through the Routard forum. We’d already planned our itinerary, and he gave us advice and even booked our train tickets. In short, I highly recommend Harpal for showing you his country off the beaten path. Contact details via PM.

Hi there, I’ve mapped out a rough itinerary on this map for Gujarat (from mid-January to the end of February), starting in Mumbai and then going counterclockwise—so I’d begin with Vadodara, Ahmedabad, and Gandhinagar before heading north up to Mount Abu. I’d finish with Velavadar and then back to Ahmedabad to catch a train or flight back to Mumbai. 😊 What do you think of this 6-week itinerary? (On the map, a few points aren’t connected by lines—that means I’m not sure if I’ll go there.) I feel like even with 6 weeks, there might be too many stops, so I’d love some suggestions to lighten it up a bit. Thanks in advance for your feedback! !

Hello everyone, we got back from our trip to Kashmir and Ladakh three weeks ago. We spent 4 weeks there, including one in Kashmir. We’re really happy with our stay in Srinagar and Sonamarg. The Kashmiris gave us a very warm welcome and seemed pleased to see tourists who weren’t Indian. In fact, over the 4 days we spent in Srinagar, we only saw 4 people who looked European... Srinagar is stunning with its lakes and the lively Mughal gardens. No trouble getting around, whether by shikara, rickshaw, taxi, or on foot. The houseboats are gorgeous, unfortunately controlled by consortiums. We took a taxi to Sonamarg (20 €).

Sonamarg (two nights) and its glacier are easy to explore, either on horseback or on foot, but it’s becoming a leisure spot for Indians. To get to Ladakh afterward, we opted for a private taxi (quite expensive at 100 €, but the road is long). Since we’re a couple, it allowed us to stop whenever we wanted... and the route is beautiful all the way to Lamayuru, with our first snow-covered pass under snow when we crossed around May 21st. Then we stopped in Mulbek and Kargil before arriving in Lamayuru (three nights). We took another taxi to Alchi (26 €), spent one night there, and took the local bus at around 8 AM to Leh (3 €, a comfortable one-hour ride). We arrived in Leh around 9:30 AM, and Gyatsel from Tsarap Guesthouse came to pick us up with our backpacks. His guesthouse is located 500 meters from the market square in Leh, in a quiet little alley with no traffic. We highly recommend it because Gyatsel is invaluable for arranging taxis and organizing off-agency circuits...

His accommodation is super comfortable, and he cooks with vegetables from his garden. His wife also helps out... It’s Gyatsel’s mother who tends the garden. Through him, we arranged permits for the Nubra Valley up to Turtuk, then the Pangong and Tso Moriri lakes (we didn’t do the latter due to snow overnight!). We also crossed the Changtang (magnificent) to reach Thiksey, Stakna, Hemis, and returned to Leh. Six days in a private taxi (400 €). Since the roads were clear, we headed to Zanskar for 5 days in a shared taxi (28 € round trip for both of us). The route from Leh to Zangla follows the Zanskar gorges (impressive!).

We discovered Padum, Pibiting, Karsha, and Puktal, which you can reach via a small 7 km road and a 45-minute walk to finish, plus the sacred summit on the way to Manali.

Back in Leh, we extended our permit to visit the Aryan Valley by taxi (round trip, two days, 90 €). We spent our last two days resting in Leh—the altitude is really tiring...

I’m sharing these taxi prices as a guide for a couple. Accommodation ranged from 12 € in Leh to 30 € at Pangong Lake (the most expensive), but averaged around 15-17 € per night.

We’re not trekkers, but we love walks, discovery, and meeting people along the way. It was an amazing trip, and we even discovered a very old monastery a few kilometers before Lamayuru, where a monk took us—timeless...

I’m sharing these details because it’s hard to find precise information about Kashmir.

Hi, I’m looking for an organized tour in Northern India that goes through Agra (of course!) over about twenty days, prioritizing 2-day stops given the long distances or flights. So far, my search has led me to these tours: Intimate Rajasthan + Ganges Valley Intimate Rajasthan and Goa Confidential Rajasthan + Goa circuit The number of kilometers is still pretty overwhelming and a bit scary. Thanks for your feedback! bcricri14

Hi, Does anyone know if the Banbasa border crossing is open on weekends? Thanks

Hi, I'm thinking of attending the Nagaur Fair in Rajasthan, which takes place from February 12 to 15, 2027. Has anyone been to this fair? Is it just a livestock market or a real festival with music and dancing? Since it’s quite a detour for me, I wanted to know if it’s worth it. Thanks!

Hi there, we're planning to go to Haridwar and Rishikesh in February, either from Delhi or from Amritsar where we'll be beforehand. What's the best way to get there? Driver, private car, train? Your tips would be much appreciated... thanks

Hello, Planning a cruise on the Brahmaputra in January—should we worry about being bothered by those little critters? One of us has allergies. Thanks for your replies

Hi everyone, I’d like to visit Mahe with the goal of seeing the 5 former French trading posts. Is it worth it? I get the feeling that northern Kerala is overlooked by tourists—am I wrong? And why? If you’ve got any great tips for guesthouses or hotels in Mahe, I’m all ears. Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Hi everyone, The "Rometorio" app is super handy—you just enter a departure city and a destination, and it suggests train, bus, and flight routes. For trains, you get the name and number of each one along with the schedules. Plus, it gives you an idea of how long bus and train trips take. Happy travels to all!

Hey fellow travelers,

I’m spending two weeks studying Hindi in the mornings in Delhi, in the Hauz Khas neighborhood. What spots should I check out in this area? Any cafés to chill at? How do I get to other parts of Delhi? By rickshaw? Is it easy to negotiate the price upfront?

Thanks in advance. 😊 Marlène

Hi, I’m leaving this Saturday for Northern India from 15/02 to 27/02. I’m planning to visit New Delhi, Agra, Chand Baori, Jaipur, Ranthambore, Bundi, Udaipur, and Jodhpur.

What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?

As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?

Thanks for your insights!

Hi everyone! 🙂 My partner (who’s a teacher—hence the summer holidays) and I are heading to Eastern India for 23 days in July. This is my 5th trip to India, but her first.

We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).

We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.

Here’s what we’re planning:

- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00 - **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time. - **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?* - **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**. - **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa. *- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?* - **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?* Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season? Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?* - Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**, - 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*

Back to Paris. Total: 23 nights.

What do you think of these choices? What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*? Thanks so much! 🙂

Hello all my fellow globetrotters, I’m heading to Kerala this coming January. I was wondering if any of you have ever managed to visit the inside of the famous Padmanabhapuram Temple, which is off-limits to non-Hindus? I know there’s a way to request special permission to enter, but I could really use your insights.

Thanks so much in advance. Take care and enjoy exploring our beautiful planet.

Best regards, Régine

Hi, I’d like to arrive in India at New Delhi Airport with some cash. I was wondering if the exchange rates at the airport are any good or if it’s best to avoid them (and exchange in the city instead?).

Thanks for your help.

Hi there, it's me again with more questions about Kerala!

I'm thinking of making the trip from Mysore to Cochin by private car (with a driver, of course) in one day. I'd love to get an idea of the price and travel time (and if you know a reliable agency).

Alternatively, maybe it's more interesting to do this trip by bus? I'm worried it might take much longer than with a private car. This will be my first trip to South India, and I'm not really sure about travel times or how easy it is to get around by local buses or trains. Thanks!

Marsyork

Hi there, I’m spending about ten days in Kerala, and of course, I’d love to see the backwaters (I’m open to all possible tips—I don’t want to sleep on a houseboat). My question is:

Is it doable to spend a good half-day in the backwaters while staying at Marari Beach?

Thanks!

Marsyork

Hi there! 🙂 Please, how can I get from: - PATNEM to GOKARNA - GOKARNA to UDUPI (or UDIPI) - UDUPI to MANGALORE - MANGALORE to KANNUR What are the different transport options, the price (if possible, otherwise no worries), and the approximate travel time 😉 Thanks so much to those who take the time to reply! Have a wonderful day! Sandra

Hello, We’re a group of 4 looking for a driver and car for our stay in Kerala from November 22 to December 12, 2025. We’ve already planned an itinerary starting from Cochin. We’ve traveled with a driver before during our trip to Rajasthan. Thanks for your replies! Yves

Hello there! Any hotel or guesthouse you’d recommend in Pondicherry? Arriving on October 5th for up to 15 days.

I'm planning a return trip to India next year, and this time I want to check out what's nice on the way up to Manali. Since the bus rides are really long coming from the plains (Chandigarh or even Delhi), I'm looking for a place to stop along the way (my partner and I). I’ve spotted Kullu, about an hour from Manali, but no matter how much I study the map, I can’t tell if there’s an actual town there. We really don’t want to end up in some isolated hotel that’s only convenient for people traveling with their own transport—definitely not our style. We prefer to drop our bags in a room, freshen up a bit, then wander around streets or alleys with at least a little life.

So, I’m wondering if we’d be better off just skipping Kullu altogether.

What do you think, folks who’ve been there before?

Our trip through Nepal, Rajasthan, South India, and the Andaman Islands. Dates: October 26 to January 14, 2025 Departure from Geneva to Kathmandu.

NEPAL, one month. 2 days of exploring between Kathmandu and Patan. 14 days of trekking from Kathmandu to Langtang, passing by sacred lakes. Trek with a French-speaking guide and 2 porters from the local French-speaking tour operator "NEPAL VOYAGE." Ended with a helicopter ride due to a wrist fracture on black ice at 3,900m. 3 days in the hospital in Kathmandu. Continued the trip in Nepal with a self-guided stay in Bhaktapur and Pokhara. Returned to Kathmandu by plane, then flew to Delhi.

RAJASTHAN. 18 days touring Rajasthan with a French-speaking driver "RAVINDRA MENA." Highlights: Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur*, Ranakpur*, Udaipur*, Bundi, Pushkar*, Jaipur, Agra, Jaipur (Top spots marked with *). Flight from Jaipur to Kochi.

KERALA. Kochi, 3 nights—disappointing, but the Backwaters to the north by scooter were stunning and not touristy. Kochi to Varkala by Uber with a Canadian couple. Varkala, 4 nights—great for relaxing, but scooter rentals weren’t available, which was a shame. Varkala to Munroe Island by train. 2 nights in Monroe. Munroe Island to Kumilly. 2 nights on Christmas Day—meh, not much to do since all the park excursions were booked by Indian tourists. Kumilly to Munnar by local taxi, negotiated the day before. Munnar—processions, tea fields, and *so* many Indian tourists during this period that it was impossible to find scooters to rent.

TAMIL NADU Crossed Tamil Nadu from Munnar to Auroville in 3 days, stopping at the extraordinary Tamil temples of Madurai, Trichy, Thanjavur, Darasuram, Chidambaram, and others. With the lunar conjunction, pilgrimages, and year-end holidays, there were *tons* of pilgrims! Auroville to Pondicherry by scooter, then a tuk-tuk for New Year’s Eve—still *so* crowded! Pondicherry to Mahabalipuram by local bus. Mahabalipuram, 2 nights—nice and chill. Mahabalipuram to Chennai by Uber.

ANDAMAN ISLANDS Chennai to Port Blair by flight, Andaman Islands. Port Blair, 2 nights—almost too much! Speedboat to Havelock, 4 nights—still lots of Indian tourism. Couldn’t go snorkeling with a dive operator or rent gear. Luckily, we managed to buy some and do it ourselves. Speedboat to Neil Island, 3 days, 2 nights—too short, but excellent snorkeling from "Elephant, Four Wise Men." Phew, no biting flies, and we weren’t eaten by crocodiles. Back to Port Blair, then Delhi, one night, and return to Geneva.

Our impressions of India. Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu—we eventually got tired of palaces and temples. It’s always complicated and exhausting to get around on foot in the cities. During the year-end period from mid-December to mid-January, *so* many tourists! The Andaman Islands were a bit disappointing—too short, and for snorkeling, Indonesia is easier and less expensive.

Our photos========================= Trip summary NEPAL AND INDIA (140 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/NVY4qaLcArvXzUx58

All photos from the Nepal trek (81 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/pXkG3JaFyJg93k1s8

All photos NEPAL After the trek and Christine’s accident (87 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/UgbNWb6oAibif3837

All photos RAJASTHAN (tough to narrow down! 230 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/GghreEkzhZoq6Rcw7

All photos SOUTH INDIA KERALA, Tamil Nadu, Andaman (200 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/DYnp2JLyLR2UCM3R6

Just back from a 3-week trip in northern India, we spent 2 days in Varanasi. Since this city is so unique, to get a deeper look inside and better understand the spirituality that emanates from it, we hired a young French-speaking guide, Rakesh, who was recommended by our driver. Rakesh knows his city really well—he showed us places we never would’ve found on our own, all in perfect French. Thanks to him, we learned so much; he’s truly fascinating and very attentive. A huge thank you for this amazing experience. Don’t hesitate to reach out for his services. Contact details in PM

Hi everyone! So great to be back on this Forum! My question is in the title: is it possible to reach Bhutan from Kolkata by entering through the Phuntsholing border crossing? If anyone has already done this route, it would really put my mind at ease... 😉 Thanks in advance for all your replies! 🤪 Lydie

Hi there, We're planning to spend 2 to 3 weeks in South India (Kerala) in January or February 2025. We'd like to use a travel agency to help us make this trip happen. Can you recommend a reliable agency that can tailor a trip to our needs? Thanks! 😊

Hi everyone, Kerala experts (especially Marien!) In January, I’m planning another trip to Kerala. We’ll arrive in Kochi and travel up the coast by train to Gokarna. So I’m reaching out to ask if it’s worth stopping for a few days in any of the following spots (not all, of course—just one or two that are really worth it...). From what I’ve seen, few Western tourists stop along this coast, given how little info there is about it: Mahe, Thalassery, Taliparamba, Nileshwar, Bekal, Kasaragod I’m not mentioning Kannur because we’ve already been there, specifically Thottada Beach, and we’re familiar with the southern destinations (Trivandrum, Kovalam, etc.). Thanks for your replies! Anne