Hi everyone,

My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.

We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.

I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.

I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?

Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?

Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!

Hi everyone, I’m so happy 🙂 to be traveling again after 5 years without a trip. I’m heading back to Costa Rica for 18 days from December 12th to 30th with a friend. We’re doing San José-Sarapiquí (2 nights), then Sarapiquí-Tortuguero (3 nights), then from Tortuguero heading to the Cahuita and Puerto Viejo area. We’ll spend about ten days in that region, then make a 2-day stop somewhere before flying back out of San José. From what I’ve read on this blog, Puerto Viejo seems like the "rasta," party-friendly spot, which is honestly the kind of place I tend to avoid—too touristy. I’m looking for places surrounded by beautiful nature. I’ve already spent several weeks in Drake Bay (in 2019 and 10 years before that) and loved it. My friend also wants to visit the Bri Bri. Could you recommend some authentic spots in this southern Caribbean area? Your favorite places—whether it’s sights to see, accommodations, or even your favorite little restaurants 😛? What’s the most authentic way to visit the Bri Bri? What’s your take on that? And finally, what beautiful stop would you recommend before heading back to San José? A huge thank you to everyone! Have a great day, Zineb

Hi there,

Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.

We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.

Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among: - Playa del Carmen - Cozumel - Holbox - Valladolid - Tulum - Mahahual

We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.

Thanks in advance!

Stéphane

Hi everyone,

Attached is an itinerary we’d love to do as a couple, and of course, the question is whether it’s doable.

(Hoping you can decipher my handwriting!)

Thanks for your replies and suggestions!

A fantastic trip, dominated by the Altiplano, volcanoes, and especially the Mayan people!

Our route: Antigua – San Lucas de Toliman (Lake Atitlán) – Chichicastenango – Sayaxché – El Remate – Flores – Río Dulce – Livingston – Antigua I won’t describe our trip in detail but will highlight a few points that go beyond the usual routes and really won us over. In Antigua, it’s easy to take a chicken bus from the bus station next to the central market in the eastern part of the city to visit nearby villages. We went to Santa María de Jesús on a Sunday without seeing any other Westerners. We got lost in its colorful market, ate at a *comedor* with local dishes we didn’t find anywhere else, and were surrounded by incredibly welcoming Mayans. Several villages around Lake Atitlán are well-covered by travelers and guides like *Routard* and *Lonely Planet*, but if you want to stay somewhere more authentic, I recommend San Lucas de Toliman (we stayed at *Casa Qatzil*—great place!). It’s in the southeast of the lake, with a market on Tuesdays and Fridays, a central square full of locals (more of those super-friendly Mayans!), and the option to visit other villages by *lancha* (boat) for the day. A walk toward the lake lets you pass by the washhouses, and there are hikes accessible by *pick-up* (shared transport), like the twin volcanoes Tolimán and Atitlán or Cerro del Oro (less challenging!). We loved visiting Santa Catarina Palopó—get lost in its maze of steep alleys, admiring the blue facades with their characteristic paintings. There are direct *chicken bus* connections to Chichicastenango in 1.5 hours. Cheap and convenient, though a bit bumpy! Chichicastenango is famous for its market, described as the largest in Central America, on Thursdays and Sundays. A flood of tourists arrives between 10 AM and 1 PM, shuttled in by organized buses from Lake Atitlán and Antigua. But if you have time, stay overnight the day before and enjoy the market before 10 AM or in the afternoon. This little town (more of those welcoming Mayans!) is worth lingering in for a day or two to visit the cemetery, extraordinarily colorful and a site of Mayan rituals. Also take time to go to *Plaza Baktun*, a site considered sacred in Mayan culture where religious ceremonies take place around seven sculptures several meters tall. The ruins of Aguateca are barely excavated (most structures are still covered in vegetation) and are only accessible by boat, traveling up a tributary of the Río de la Pasión to the sound of howler monkeys and birdsong (1.5 hours from Sayaxché). We felt like we got a sense of daily life in the ancient city—not just its religious dimension—with its ravine for sheltering women and children during attacks, its cliff, and defensive walls. Alone with our *lancha* driver, who acted as our guide in the barely cleared jungle, this site doesn’t overlap with Tikal at all—the vibe is completely different. We stayed in El Remate instead of Flores to visit Yaxhá and Tikal, at *Posada Ixchel* (great place!). This quiet little town lets you stroll along the lake and hike in *Cerro Cahui*, a protected biotope leading to a viewpoint. Plus, it’s on the way to the sites, saving 45 minutes per trip.

Feel free to ask me questions about the places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!

Hi there, We’re heading to Costa Rica in March 2025 for a road trip from north to south. What type of vehicle would be best? And, based on your experience, which rental company would you recommend doing business with? Thanks! Denis, from Quebec

Hi there,

I have a few questions about Panama. I’ve heard that it’s possible to travel from Panama to the San Blas Islands.

1- Does anyone have information about small plane transport to the islands? I understand it’s possible to fly to one of the main islands, but there might also be other drop-off points for visiting more remote islands. We’re traveling with kids and would prefer to avoid a 5 AM wake-up and a mountain car ride if possible.

2- Regarding our route through the country: we’ve noted the issues with renting a car. We’ve seen that a common itinerary is to fly directly to Bocas del Toro afterward, then return in stages by bus or rental car.

We imagine taking the bus would be really long and tiring (especially with a child). If we rent a car all the way to the west of the country, do you have any recommendations? (e.g., options to rent there and drop it off at the airport or in Panama City, names of local agencies?)

Thanks in advance!

Hi there, we're heading to Panama.

We're looking for up-to-date info on day trips to: 1-Coiba (from Santa Catalina). I’ve seen prices like: $65 per person + 20 € for the national park entrance, and also a "package" price of $225... Has anyone got recent info? Are these prices to be shared, or is it really a minimum of 85 € per person (even for a 6-year-old kid)?

2-Escudo de Veraguas From Bocas del Toro, I’ve seen prices around 150 € with a 2-hour lancha ride. Or from Calovébora (no info on price or trip duration).

Has anyone been to this island recently and have any up-to-date tips?

Thanks in advance,

Hi, We’re planning a trip to Mexico this summer (loop through Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche). We’re thinking of using public transport or possibly renting a car. The French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website has a lot of recommendations. Are these states safe for solo travelers? Are there any precautions we should take or areas to avoid? Thanks,

Hi everyone, To get from San Juan del Sur to San Carlos and the San Juan River, do we really have to go all the way around the lake, head back up to Managua, and then come back down the east side? Isn’t there a small road after Colón? Can’t we take a little ferry that connects Colón to the Solentiname Islands? Honestly, that’d be a huge time-saver... Thanks for your tips if you’ve already figured this out! Chantal

Hi everyone, we’re thinking of heading to Playa del Carmen, Mexico, in early July 2025, but a few people have warned us against it because of the sargassum. Is it really that bad?

Hi there, after my trip to Nicaragua in January, I’m planning to visit Honduras and El Salvador during the same journey. Can anyone tell me where to cross the border from Nicaragua to Honduras by bus? Is it doable? Safe? And most importantly, what’s a good route to take and what’s worth seeing in Honduras in a safe way?

Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?

P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?

Thanks for the tips!

Hi there,

I’m heading to Guatemala for 18 days in August with my 11-year-old and I’m wondering if renting a car makes sense—not so much because of the road conditions, but because I’d like to spend about 3 days in Livingston. Since it’s only accessible by boat, I’d have to leave the car in Río Dulce. Maybe possible at a hotel, but that means paying for a rental for 3 days without using it... Same issue for Semuc Champey—it’s only reachable by 4x4, and I won’t be renting that type of vehicle.

Also, has anyone traveled from Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) to Cobán (to explore the caves and waterfalls in the area)? According to Google Maps, it’s a 6-hour, 44-minute drive... so whether by car or minibus, it’s *really* long (same for Cobán-Flores later). Are there any interesting stops along the way where I could spend a night? And if I’m not renting a car, is it possible to take two private shuttles for this route?

Thanks for your tips!

Hi, can you tell me if there’s a bus or shuttle from Alajuela to the Nicaragua border via Los Chiles? I’d like to avoid going through San José. Thanks for your help!

Bonjour

En fait je me disais qu en shuttle ils allaient faire direct le trajet Panajachel Coban soit 6h45 (avec des arrêts certes) tandis qu'en voiture on peut s' arrêter à mi chemin quelque part pour y dormir.

Merci en tout cas pour votre retour je vais aller jeter un oeil à votre carnet de voyages

Good evening, We’re planning a long stay in Panama and Costa Rica (one of the perks of being retired), and I’m having a bit of trouble preparing for this trip. I’ll start with Panama first, then move on to Costa Rica with my questions. I’ll share my initial ideas a bit randomly—my partner is a bird enthusiast and photographer, so we’ll take our time in certain spots.

1) Late arrival in Panama City 2-3-4-5) Exploring the city—the canal, Gamboa Rainforest, Gatun Lake, Pipeline Road, and Soberanía National Park. 6-7: We’re thinking of heading to the San Blas Islands for 2 nights. 8: Return to Panama City 9-10-11: Renting a car to go to El Valle de Antón for 3 nights. 12-13-14: Heading to the Azuero Peninsula for 3 nights. 15-16-17: We’d love to visit Coiba Island, but it seems tricky to fit into our itinerary. 18-19-20: Boquete and Volcán Barú for 3 nights. 21: Drive to Almirante and head to the Bocas del Toro Archipelago. 22-23: 2 nights there. 24: Return, drop off the car, and cross the border on foot at Sixaola.

If any of you can help, thank you so much! Christiane

Hi, a friend will be in Panama at an all-inclusive resort and was wondering if it's worth visiting the Canal in a single day, and also which attractions shouldn't be missed. Is it better to choose a package deal? What's the recommended mode of transport for this trip? Thanks

Hi there,

We’re planning a road trip in Mexico.

Is it feasible to rent a car from Mexico City to Oaxaca? What’s the road safety like?

After that, we’d like to take a domestic flight to the Yucatán. Same question—especially about safety when visiting Palenque.

We have a child, so we don’t want to take any risks with safety.

We speak Spanish and have already lived in Nicaragua for two years.

What’s the weather like in August? We’re a bit unsure.

Thanks for your help and tips!

Marc

Hi everyone, I’m planning to go to Panama in December and I’d like to know which city is closest to the Panama-Costa Rica border—and just across the border in Costa Rica—to buy the cheapest bus ticket? Just so I have proof of onward travel when I take my flight, thanks.

hi there,

we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22. We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short. So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:

- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day - Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán - Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery

We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover: Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22. Actually, I have a few questions: Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough? We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it. Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market. We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day? We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees. We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive. Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost. Thanks so much for your help! Annick

Hi,

My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).

So my questions are: - Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier? - Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.

Thanks for your answers.

Claire

Hi there, We’ve had to change our plans, so we’re heading to Guatemala from October 16 to 25, 2025 (in just 6 days 😱 😊😕), with two kids aged 8 and 10. No time difference for us.

Here’s our itinerary: Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ?? Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM

About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough. Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day? I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...

I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times: - How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please? I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕. Are the times on Google Maps reliable?

A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?

Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus? Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?

Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?

Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!

Hi there,

After a lot of hesitation about our Central America destination (trip in July), we finally decided on Panama.

For this country, we're looking for info to fine-tune our itinerary.

To avoid spending entire days in the car, does anyone have any firsthand experiences or suggestions for towns or villages to stop at: Between Panama City and Valle de Anton? Between Valle de Anton and Pedasí (Santiago, Parita, Chitré)? Between Pedasí (or another nearby village) and Santa Catalina? Is Isla Cébaco worth the detour? (How do you get there?) Is there another departure point for Coiba (other than Santa Catalina)? Between Santa Catalina and David (is Boca Chica worth the detour?) Between David and Boquete? Between Boquete and Bocas del Toro?

Also, we’ve seen that Panama is known for its waterfalls, some of which look stunning—like Cascada Macho de Monte and La Silampa.

Do you know of any waterfalls that are easy to access (we’re traveling with a child) and don’t require hours of hiking?

Thanks in advance if you can help! (Of course, we’re researching everywhere, but nothing beats real-life experiences.) :)

Hi, A guide for a trek to get into the jungle area near Los Guatuzos, or alternatively near Bartola, close to the large Indio-Maíz reserve? Who knows these areas? We’d love to discover some wilder wetlands, maybe spot some wildlife... travel up tributaries by lancha... So if you’ve got any tips or experiences to share, I’m all ears! Thanks Chantal

Hi everyone, We’re spending a few days in Chichicastenango at Hotel Giron (highly recommend!). We’ll be wandering around the cemetery, the central park, and Pascual Abaj. Any other suggestions that don’t involve too much travel time? Thanks!

My partner and I are planning our 18-day trip to Costa Rica, and we’re thinking of renting a car. After reading so much about Costa Rica, we’re feeling a bit overwhelmed with information. We love hiking and wildlife but aren’t big fans of crowds. Corcovado Park seems like a stunning and less crowded spot, but it’s not the easiest to access. Is it worth going all that way to visit, and if so, do you have any recommendations for where to stay and which entrance to use? Thanks so much!

Dominique

Hi everyone, We’re heading to Guatemala in a few days, and the most recent posts are starting to get a bit old... Would anyone have more up-to-date info on whether it’s better to exchange euros rather than dollars? Do we still need crisp bills no matter the currency? Thanks, and great to be back on VF! !

la ruta de las flores. Quelle est la meilleure manière de faire ? Est-ce que cela se fait d'un coup

- As-tu dormi dans certains pour reprendre la route le lendemain ? Dans ce cas-là, as-tu pris un bus (local ou touristique ?) avec ton sac ?

Bonjour Dominique ,

On peut facilement visiter plusieurs villages dans la journée , mais les faire tous " d'un coup " me paraît rapide , même si ce sont des villages petits où il n'y a pas grand-chose à voir ou à faire , à part une petite place , une église , déguster des spécialités locales ou faire une petite randonnée .

Je te conseille de passer une nuit à Nahuizalco , de préférence un week-end , pour profiter de l'ambiance nocturne ; dans mon carnet je donne un hostal bon marché et d'un bon rapport qualité-prix ( j'avais trouvé l'adresse dans le Petit Futé ) .

J'avais aussi dormi à Ahuachapan ( hôtel trouvé dans le Petit Futé ) , et c'est à partir de ces deux villages que j'avais visité les autres en bus , mon choix s'était porté sur Ahuachapan parce que j'avais trouvé facilement un hôtel.

Pour Juayua aussi je te conseille d'y aller en fin de semaine pour profiter des stands de rue qui vendent des spécialités locales ( ce qu'ils appellent pompeusement " feria gastronomica" ) .

En 2024 il n'y avait pas de bus touristique au Salvador et il n'y a pas non plus de bus confortables et modernes comme on en trouve au Chili , Mexique , Perou ou au Brésil , il n'y a que des chiken bus et ils n'acceptent pas les grandes valises , il te faudra prendre un sac pas trop grand ( moi j'avais laissé ma valise à San Salvador , l'hôtel me l'a gardée gratuitement ) .

J'avais dialogué avec une personne qui était allée au Salvador après moi et elle m'avait dit que l'Office du tourisme de San Salvador l'avait beaucoup aidée à faire son circuit en bus , moi je ne connais pas cet Office de tourisme , mais en cherchant j'ai vu qu'il est tout près de la place centrale de la capitale où se trouvent la cathédrale , le palais national et la BINAES . Je te mets le lien , ils indiquent les endroits à visiter dans la capitale et proposent même des visites guidées en espagnol, anglais , français et italien :

https://centrohistorico.gob.sv/?ved=2ahUKEwio2MHk6amVAxXKRaQEHYZYAYAQgU96BAgmEAM

Quand pars-tu ? Le 4 juillet je pars en Corée du Sud pour deux mois et je me connecterai beaucoup moins au site .

When planning a trip to Panama, you often hear about Panama City, Bocas del Toro, Boquete, or even San Blas. Yet, there’s a region that remains relatively under the radar in travel guides: the Arco Seco.

Located on the Pacific coast, between the provinces of Panamá Oeste, Coclé, Herrera, and Los Santos, the Arco Seco enjoys a generally drier climate than the rest of the country. Even during the rainy season, you’ll often find more sunshine here than in other parts of Panama.

For travelers who love alternating between beaches, nature, hikes, and local discoveries, this region is definitely worth a detour.

A few ideas for visits:

• The beaches of La Ensenada, El Palmar, Punta Barco, and Coronado

• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast

• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!

• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs

• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas

• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas

• Golf at Vista Mar or Coronado

• Fishing villages where you can still buy freshly caught fish directly from local fishermen

What I particularly love about this region is that it lets you discover a more authentic and peaceful side of Panama while remaining easily accessible from Panama City.

I’ve been living in San Carlos for several years now, and I’m still discovering new places, trails, beaches, and hidden gems.

If anyone is planning a trip to this region and has questions, I’d be happy to share my favorite spots and personal recommendations.

Looking forward to exchanging tips with you!

Joëlle

Hi there,

In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap. It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.

SAFETY:

For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.

BUDGET:

For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.

TRANSPORT:

I got around everywhere by local bus.

Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.

I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!

PEOPLE:

I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!" The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.

TOURIST CROWDS:

The country isn’t well-known among European tourists, but Americans and Quebecers visit. Overall, it’s still pretty low-key, especially compared to other Central American countries. That said, tourism has been growing since security improved significantly.

WHAT I LOVED ❤️

-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.

-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.

-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.

-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.

-The charming villages along the Ruta de las Flores, especially Nahuizalco with its nighttime atmosphere and food stalls. Juayúa and others are great too.

-The conversations with people who lived through the horrors of the civil war in Perquín and Cinquera. I met one of them by chance while waiting for a bus.

For surfers, El Salvador is a paradise, with world-famous beaches.

WHAT I LIKED LESS:

I loved almost everything, but I found the archaeological sites a bit underwhelming. Joyabaj de Cerén is billed as the "Pompeii of El Salvador," which is a stretch (though it *is* a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical value).