I recently took a six-week trip to Mexico with Y, my Thai partner. To be precise, we spent 43 days there plus a final half-day before heading to Mexico City Airport for our return flight to Europe.
I’d already been to Mexico about 40 years ago! But that was only for a week or so, between Mérida and the Belize border.
First off, I should mention that I’ve never seen a beach in Mexico. I say this because discussions about Mexico always seem to revolve around the Costa / Riviera Maya.
Let’s start with an overview of the trip. Our itinerary can be split into two halves:
- First half: Querétaro, San Miguel de Allende, Morelia, Guanajuato, Mexico City “CDMX” (the capital).
- Second half: Palenque, San Cristóbal de Las Casas, Chiapa de Corzo, Oaxaca, Puebla, Cholula, and finally Mexico City CDMX.
To move from one part of the trip to the other, we took a flight from Mexico City CDMX to Villahermosa, then a bus to Palenque.
In six weeks, we visited maybe a quarter or a fifth of the country (see the attached maps). Mexico is about three times the size of France! And when I say “visited,” it was really just a quick stop—enough to get a first impression. I understand that some people can only spend one or two weeks on vacation in a given country, but that’s not my idea of travel. Personally, I’d say a country as rich in every way as Mexico deserves several months of travel before you can say you’ve “seen” it.
In my next post, I’ll break down the expenses. That might help future travelers plan their trips. You don’t go to a country for several weeks (or more) without thinking about the budget! Besides, one of those future travelers to Mexico is us—we were so thrilled by Mexico that we’re definitely going back.
I’m really looking forward to the rest of your travel journal.
I think Mexico is my favorite country in so many ways—architecture, vibe, food, how friendly people are, etc.—but you’re right, it’s impossible to say you’ve "seen" Mexico when the country is so huge and there’s just so much to explore.
I’m eagerly waiting for the rest of your travel journal.
I truly think Mexico is my favorite country on so many levels (architecture, atmosphere, food, the kindness of the people, etc.), but it’s impossible to say you’ve "seen" Mexico—it’s such a vast country with so much to explore.
Hi Frédéric,
We can use the informal "you" if you’d like.
I completely agree with you: the kindness (and spontaneity) of the people, their joy for life and friendliness, the architecture, the cultural and ethnic diversity, the geography, and so on. The list goes on and on. After traveling extensively, I’d also say it’s my favorite country.
We had booked accommodations all along in decent hotels, but without looking for luxury. Lodging cost us an average of 30 €, typically between 30 and 35 €, making up about a third of our total expenses. It must be said that we stayed in some places that seemed significantly more expensive than others, namely:
- Querétaro – probably because it’s a pleasant city that attracts many visitors from the capital (domestic tourism in Mexico is very developed).
- Guanajuato – a small but very popular city, especially during the famous "Cervantino" festival (it was packed).
- Oaxaca – same comment as for Guanajuato, but it was during the famous "El Día de Muertos" celebration. In addition to Mexican tourists, foreign visitors were very noticeable. That’s also where we found the most expensive lodging for what we got.
- Our last two nights in Mexico City, in a hotel slightly more "upscale" than usual, just to recharge before returning to Europe.
Except for these "expensive" spots, we usually paid around 25 to 30 € per night.
A natural question is whether breakfast is included in hotel bookings. Most of the time, it wasn’t, and even when it was, it was almost always so basic (like weak coffee, "pan dulce" and/or cornflakes with no options) that we had to grab something outside the hotel to supplement.
Of course, I’m not talking about what might be the case for stays in Riviera Maya hotels or higher-standard accommodations.
Meals and Drinks
This accounts for roughly another third of our expenses. But it’s hard to break down because we skipped meals. For example, when we left in the morning by bus, we made do with snacks bought at bus terminals (which are usually pretty meager). Also, we bought food here and there instead of eating at restaurants. We ate at markets but also went to "decent" restaurants a few times (never splurging).
If we exclude bus station snacks, we spent an average of around 8 € on breakfast. You can easily eat for 10-12 €. At lunch, 10-15 €, and in the evening, 12-20 €. Never more than 30 €. All of this, of course, for two people.
Then there are drinks outside of meals. Without being heavy drinkers, we do enjoy a little drink (or more) – not every day, but still fairly often. We’re on vacation, after all! How could we not try the local beers (not great, except sometimes the "cervezas de barril")? How could we resist the temptation of a few good margaritas? (Though they weren’t all that great.) And how could we not explore the famous "mezcal"? I really liked mezcal, but it quickly adds up!
In short, drinks, snacks, and food purchases outside of meals cost us around 10 € per day on average.
Total "meals + drinks" per day: it hovered just under 1000 MXN (pesos), or around 45 € per day on average. Looking back, I think we didn’t deprive ourselves. You can certainly spend less—I think you can always find food for under 30 € per day for two people (just a rough estimate), without suffering too much. And if you go easy on the margaritas and mezcal!
I’m continuing with "travel budgeting." I know this might bore some of you, but as I’ve said, I’m doing this primarily for myself. Now that I’ve started the topic, I might as well keep going. Later, I promise, I’ll move on to our travel impressions with a few photos. Hang in there!
Buses and local transport
Buses and local transport = 12% of our expenses. We often took buses from Primera Plus and ADO, which are among the best—if not *the* best—you can find. In total, we traveled about 2,500 km by bus, and for two people, that cost us 8,300 MXN, or just over 400 €. On top of that, we had the flight from Mexico City to Villahermosa, which cost 106 € for two. That flight (with Interjet) took 1.5 hours to cover 750 km. We *could* have done it by bus, but it would’ve taken a whole day and probably cost around 80–120 € for two. So flying made sense.
Of course, there are other ways to travel—spending more or less time in each place, which means fewer or more transport costs for a set trip duration. On average, we spent 3 days per place, but sometimes just 1 day, or up to 5 days, like in Mexico City and Oaxaca. You *can* move faster… but then it turns into a race. Too many people show up on VF with insane itineraries (I see this a lot on the India forum, for example). Well, to each their own. Y and I prefer to take it easy, have time to do laundry, soak in the local vibe, etc.
For local transport (taxis, short-distance local buses), we spent about 3 € per day on average. Again, this depends on our travel pace. But either way, it’s clear this isn’t a major expense. Taxis are super cheap. The metro in Mexico City costs next to nothing. Of course, if you’re traveling for several weeks or even months, it adds up.
Someone might ask: *What about taxi safety?* We mostly ordered taxis through our hotels, so they were pretty much guaranteed. But we also hailed taxis on the street and never had any issues. Except for one time when we felt like we were being "taken for a ride" to inflate the fare, we found the drivers to be perfectly honest. That said, it might be a different story late at night or in remote neighborhoods of a big city…
In short, all this transport cost us an average of 12–13 € per day.
Hi Georges,
I'm heading to Mexico and Guatemala for 2 months soon with two friends, and I can't wait to read your travel journal—thank you in advance!
It's true that Mexico is huge, and I'm a bit worried about spending too much time on transportation. Our itinerary includes Mexico City, three colonial cities, then a "descent" to Oaxaca, San Cristobal, etc., all the way to Cancun, where we’ll say goodbye to a friend (poor thing, she has to work!) before continuing to Guatemala as a duo. But rushing isn’t our travel motto—we can always scale back if needed once we're there. As you said, it’s important to soak in the atmosphere and know when to slow down!
See you on the forum soon, and don’t think all your details are boring—they’re super helpful for planning. That’s what the forum is for! I’ll add that your budget looks similar to what we’re expecting too.
Hi Georges,
I’ll be following your journey because so far I’ve only been to the Yucatán Peninsula, and the rest of Mexico really appeals to me 🙂.
Yes, it’s high time we realize that Mexico isn’t just about the Yucatán—though the Yucatán is fascinating. But on the other hand, the fewer foreigners there are elsewhere, the better!
Hello Georges,
I'm heading to Mexico and Guatemala for 2 months soon with two friends, and I can't wait to read your travel journal—thank you in advance!
It's true that Mexico is huge, and I'm a bit worried about spending too much time on transportation since our itinerary includes Mexico City, three colonial cities, then a "descent" to Oaxaca, San Cristobal, etc., all the way to Cancun. There, we’ll say goodbye to a friend (poor thing, she has to work!) so we can continue to Guatemala as a duo. But rushing isn’t our travel motto—we can always adjust our plans on the spot, as you said. It’s important to soak in the atmosphere and know when to slow down!
See you on the forum soon, and don’t think all your details are boring—they’re super helpful for planning. That’s what the forum is for! I’ll add that your budget looks a lot like what we’re planning too.
Oh, there you go! That sounds a lot like what we did in 6 weeks (plus, of course, the stop in Guatemala). Nothing but happiness ahead!
Hello Georges,
I’ll be following your journey because so far I’ve only been to the Yucatán Peninsula, and the rest of Mexico really appeals to me 🙂.
Yes, it’s high time we realize that there’s more to Mexico than just the Yucatán—though the Yucatán is fascinating in its own right. But on the other hand, the fewer foreigners elsewhere, the better!
Absolutely, but for a first taste of Mexico, the Yucatán is a great choice 😊.
Plus, it’s easy to rent a car and plan your own route. I looked into driving from Mexico City to Cancún, but it seemed trickier 😕.
I’m really looking forward to your travel journal to start imagining a future trip to Mexico 😍.
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
Clothing and souvenirs = 18% of our expenses. This is a part of the budget that varies enormously, almost by definition, from one person to another. Some won’t spend a kopek, while others will happily splurge entire fortunes on everything there is to buy in a country as rich as Mexico.
I’ll try to break down our expenses to help those who are interested. Let’s say we spent money on the following categories:
Clothing and shoes: cheap, with perfectly acceptable quality, and there’s a huge selection. 2 or 3 pairs of pants and shirts, 1 hat each, shoes for my wife (including a pricier pair to handle the bad weather back in Europe), etc. All of that came to 190 Euros. The biggest item was the swimsuits we bought stupidly just to spend 1 or 2 hours in a thermal "resort" (whose entry fee was pretty steep, on top of that). Oh well, they might still come in handy later, so I’ll count them the same as the rest.
Jewelry: there’s silver everywhere! How can you resist? But we stayed reasonable. Only 130 Euros in total, the biggest item being a silver bracelet for 100 Euros.
Handicrafts: I’m including the Indian-style shirts here, i.e., with those typical floral embroideries. Why here and not with Clothing? Because they’re significantly more expensive (though you can still avoid breaking the bank). Plus blankets, drapes, shawls, a hammock, and who knows what else? Oh right, I’m also tossing in the 2 bottles of mezcal we bought at the airport. That’s pretty artisanal too, right? Anyway, the whole lot came to a friendly price: just a hair under 500 Euros.
Since you all went to elementary school (I hope, at least), you’ll easily get to the grand total of 820 Euros. As I said, it’s very easy to spend less or more—I’ll leave that to your discretion.
I realize that so far I haven’t posted any photos in my travel journal, and it’s getting a bit dry. So, as a down payment on the photos to come (when I get around to sharing day-by-day experiences), here’s a clothes stall in Oaxaca, a view of Oaxaca’s main square with—yes, you guessed it—more clothes stalls, hats, and all sorts of trinkets. I can’t say it enough: Mexico is a giant Aladdin’s cave!
Drinks are part of the memories, right? Here’s a glass of mezcal next to a drink I can’t remember the name of (the glass rimmed with "sal de gusano"); Something solid for the road, eh? (Hic!!!!)
And what about food, you ask? It’s not bad at all—there’s variety, and it’s super cheap. My favorite breakfast (still in Oaxaca): "tacos de coloradito". So good and really filling for the start of the day.
Alright, I’ve been stingy with photos so far, so here are a few more, still in Oaxaca: a woman (probably Zapotec) weaving baskets at the market; a big glass of fresh "chocomio", amazing; the cathedral square in the late afternoon.
And then, for a change, the Indian market in front of the cathedral in San Cristóbal de las Casas. It was pretty chilly and raining…
I’ve spent quite a bit of time breaking down our expenses. We had a few small extra costs, but it’s fair to say they were just that—"small." Of course, it all adds up over time. Over six weeks, it came to around 200 euros for toiletries, laundry, and especially bags to stuff all the odds and ends we bought along the way—even a Samsonite suitcase on our last day in Mexico City. As for archaeological sites and museums, they’re really affordable in Mexico, so no need to worry. Many museums are even free! The most expensive visit by far was Sumidero Canyon (750 pesos for two).
There’s often talk on VF about exchange rates. I checked our total expenses in euros, including everything: withdrawals, as they appeared on the two bank accounts I used, averaged 20.0 MXN per euro. Credit card payments averaged 20.2 MXN per euro. As they say, "it’s six of one, half a dozen of the other!" Just note that withdrawal fees vary *a lot* from one bank to another. The worst I saw was an 81 MXN fee per withdrawal at HSBC or BBVA—withdrawals I *didn’t* make! Meanwhile, Citibank or City Banamex only charge 31 MXN. I made 11 withdrawals in Mexico, and that 50-peso difference per withdrawal would’ve cost me an extra 11*50 = 550 pesos, or about 27.5 euros—enough for a nice meal for two at a decent restaurant. Not exactly trivial!
All in all, we averaged around a hundred euros per day for two people. For those interested, I’ll share a pie chart breakdown of all our expenses.
Now, onto the travel story itself. When we arrived in Mexico City, we immediately took the bus to Querétaro (850 pesos for two, from the airport). This city, in the so-called "colonial" region of Mexico, is 220 km from Mexico City. It’s a pretty city of nearly a million people, perfect for exploring on foot. The center is easy to define, between Jardín Zenea, Plaza de Armas, and Plaza Constitución, and includes highlights like the Templo de San Francisco de Asís and right next door, the Museo Regional. The term "templo" seems to be used often for churches. But before stepping into either, you’ll inevitably come across the statue of a dancing Indigenous man.
There was a festival happening when we arrived—music, dancing, and fireworks in the evening. Actually, nothing out of the ordinary, since it seemed like there was a festival, celebration, or event *everywhere* we went in Mexico!
On the small square by the "Dancing Indian," a sign outside a shop advertised "pedos de monja." Sure enough, those must be "nun’s farts," the little donuts we have in France too, right? Feels like familiar territory—nice! Since I’m curious, I looked up the "official" Spanish term: it’s "buñuelos de viento," or "wind donuts," and apparently dates back to the 10th century and Sephardic Jews, who were numerous in Spain at the time.
You’ll probably notice in the photo a heavily armed policewoman. It’s true—this isn’t uncommon in Mexico…
We spotted the Templo de San Francisco, but hunger led us to the stalls at Plaza de Armas first. We sat down with a ton of options in front of us and no idea what would hit the spot. We ended up eating 2 or 3 "sopes" filled with who-knows-what, but they were *really* good. "Sopes" are tortillas topped with whatever’s in the pots in front of you—you pick. With two large glasses of horchata, it cost us 115 pesos.
After six weeks in the country, I’ve got the impression that *everything* is based on tortillas—whether it’s tacos, quesadillas, or "chilaquiles." Mexico is a country with millions of *everything*, including millions of tortillas. Everywhere you go, they’re making tortillas—by hand or by machine to keep up with demand. Millions every day! They’re corn flatbreads, the Mexican equivalent of Indian "chapatis."
Oh, I can already hear the question: "Aren’t you afraid to eat at markets?" I can put your mind at ease—we ate at markets *a lot* and never had a single issue. The infamous "Montezuma’s revenge," if it even exists, must’ve been targeting someone else!
We spent three days in Querétaro, a gentle introduction to our trip. We eventually made it into the Templo de San Francisco. My Catholic childhood came rushing back (yes, I’ve drifted since…), helping me appreciate it. I, who swore I’d only care about Romanesque and Gothic, have to admit: I found the church stunning, and I’ll confess—I was moved. Meanwhile, Y, who’s Buddhist, doesn’t overthink it: anything that moves (or doesn’t) and resembles a god, saint, or idol gets a Thai "wâi" or a prayer. She loved the architecture and decor just as much as I did.
The Museo Regional is right next to the Templo. If I remember correctly, entry is free. I love museums where the building itself is part of the exhibit. I got my fill: check out this courtyard with its large arches (a style you’ll see elsewhere) and the tower in the back—that’s the Templo. Inside, you’ll find explanations about indígenas (not "indio," which is somewhat pejorative, and definitely not "indiano," which means something else entirely)—their origins, customs, and way of life. In this region, it’s mostly the Otomís (Hñahñu or Ñano) and Pames. We got our first taste of Indigenous life: the stunning embroidery you’ll see *everywhere*, even in Central America, and those demon masks, which deserve their own chapter.
Part of the museum covers the city’s important role in Mexico’s post-Hispanic history. We didn’t spend too much time there (Y isn’t big on deep dives), but it’s worth a couple of hours.
There are also reproductions of local church facades. Really interesting—I’ll give you an example.
So, those first three days in Mexico were smooth and incredibly enriching. "Impressed" doesn’t even cover it! The beauty of the squares and churches, the clean streets, the kindness, the smiles, the spontaneity of the people…
Oh, before leaving Querétaro, I have to mention our visit to a shoe store—yes, you can’t miss how *everywhere* shoes are in Mexico! And I know someone for whom they’re just as important as churches and museums!
The morning we left for San Miguel de Allende, we grabbed breakfast at a "tacos" stall in a local market… for next to nothing: 61 pesos!
We're here in Queretaro now, and I'm following your journey step by step because for us too, this will be the first stop after Mexico City!
Looks like we won't be disappointed!
I've already booked a hotel, but comparisons are always interesting. Do you remember where you stayed? And if the accommodation was good... or not?
That’s it, we’re in Querétaro now, and I’m following your journey step by step because for us, too, it’ll be the first stop after Mexico City!
Looks like we won’t be disappointed!
I’ve already booked a hotel, but comparisons are always helpful. Do you remember where you stayed? And whether the accommodation was good… or not?
Thanks, and see you soon for the next updates.
Hi Martine,
How perfectly timed! You’re going to love it, I’m sure.
We stayed in a pretty modest hotel about 10-15 minutes from the center (on foot, of course), somewhere at the end of Calle 5 de Mayo. Closer to the center, along that same street, there are several hotels that looked appealing but were probably more expensive than the 42 € per night we paid for a tiny room with hallway noise and a skimpy breakfast. Like I said, Querétaro is pretty pricey for lodging, no doubt because of its proximity to the capital.
San Miguel is only 60-70 km from Querétaro. The bus costs us 190 pesos for two, a steal. However, the taxi that picked us up at the hotel in Querétaro charged us 150 pesos, which seems excessive to me, even considering the distance to the bus terminal, which is quite far from the city center, I must admit. But what can you do? 😐
No problem buying our bus tickets at the counter. There are several buses a day, and no need to book in advance. Bus terminals in Mexico are generally very well organized. They're clean, there are places to sit, and there are always clean restrooms for 4 to 6 pesos per entry. My only complaint is that there's usually not much choice when it comes to drinks or food. Take note! Stock up before heading to the terminals. It's true that they almost always give you a drink and a snack when you board the bus, but it's really not much.
This gives me an excuse to "line up" one of my many comments in the section "In Mexico, there are thousands of this and that":
"In Mexico, there are thousands of public restrooms". Even in small towns, you can always find plenty of "Baños" or "Sanitorios", sometimes for only 3 pesos. It's pretty handy, isn't it? How many times have we found ourselves in France or other European countries, in the middle of a city with an urgent need, searching for a department store where, with a bit of luck, you might find free restrooms? Note that the "seat" is amusingly called an "inodoro" in Spanish. No need to translate, I hope? As for urinals, they're called "mingitorio". Wow, Mexicans are sophisticated people! 😏
San Miguel is a smaller city than Querétaro. From one end to the other of the "useful part" of the city, it takes a maximum of 30 minutes. There are several churches, several squares, and on the squares, several benches:
"In Mexico, there are thousands of churches, thousands of squares, and thousands of public benches". This multitude of squares and public benches makes the country very sociable. It's pleasant to walk around everywhere; you come across so many nice spots to rest and watch the world go by. Plus, it's always clean, well-shaded, and there are lots of public fountains (I need to add public fountains to "my list"). And what's more, the fountains almost always work!
This cleanliness is remarkable. Clearly, the country is making an effort. And it creates jobs because... "there are thousands of people employed to clean public spaces" (I didn’t miss it this time!).
I don’t have any photos to show the squares, etc. But I’ll certainly have some when we get to the next cities. Believe me, San Miguel is very pretty.
In the center, there’s a very typical square with public benches, trees, fountains, and in the middle, a bandstand for concerts. A pattern you find almost everywhere. The square is dominated by the "Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel", a church remarkable for its pinkish hues and its slightly "Gaudi-esque" style (it's neo-Gothic and dates from the 17th century). The interior is magnificent, as usual. These are the first two photos.
About 300 meters further, there’s another remarkable church, the "Templo de Nuestra Señora de La Salud" on the "Plaza de la Soledad". These are the next two photos: a beautiful wooden door on the left side of the first one, and the sumptuous cream colors of the altar crowned with several statues up to the vault (a frequent style).
Some might say I’m exaggerating a bit with the churches, but not visiting them while traveling in Mexico would be a serious mistake. They’re extraordinary. 😎 I’m much more impressed by the churches in Mexico than I was during my 5-week trip to Colombia last year. And not being Christian or a believer would be a stupid excuse not to visit them.
In the late afternoon of the first day, having eaten nothing since the morning, we enter a "cantina", the "21 Única" at a corner of Calle Jesús, 2 minutes from the central square. A "cantina" is a tavern or, better said, a "saloon" like you see in Western movies, with a two-swinging-door entrance. You might feel intimidated at first, not seeing much inside, but don’t hesitate—we’ve done it many times and never had a bad experience.
It’s early, and we’re the only customers. We order a soup that’s so good we each order a large bowl. 😛 Having satisfied our hunger, we take a second, more inquisitive look at the menu. Specifically, at the section with the promising title "Tragos"—Spanish for "shots". This section is richly developed. It starts with an ancient word of wisdom: "más vale arriesgarse que quedarse con las ganas"—"better to take a risk than to be left wanting". Yes, but what to choose? There are dozens of tequilas (note that it’s masculine, which wasn’t obvious at first) and mezcals. And the cheapest mezcal is 130 pesos! We settle for the cocktails section: Y gets a margarita, and I opt for a compromise—a "mezcalilla", which lets me indirectly try mezcal. We’re not disappointed; it’s good and well-balanced, and we have another.
We start to take better notice of our surroundings. The walls have several informative messages like "the properties of tequila": it’s good for insomnia, for better calcium absorption and thus stronger bones, for losing weight, for making friends. Joy without drinking isn’t real joy, we’re told, etc. Oh, there’s another customer, sitting at the bar! Here he comes to us; we invite him to sit down. He’s clearly not on his first drink but is friendly. And here he starts singing, mostly for Y’s benefit, who’s clearly caught his eye. He sings very well for his advanced state of intoxication. He has several "amigas", he says, but none as pretty. "Ah, those eyes, that hair, that mouth!" He doesn’t stop praising Y’s beauty but, he points out, "con respeto", with respect.
After a few good drinks and this pleasant musical interlude, we head back to our lodging, which takes us through a large part of the city again.
The next day is a quiet one; we wander here and there. We have a second breakfast on one of the terraces bordering the central square. At the next table, an older American couple is joined by 1, then 2, then several other Americans, all clearly familiar with the place and loud. What’s more, they practically forced us to move to make room for them, without a word of politeness. 😠 They’re living caricatures of gringos behaving like they own the place. We quickly finish our drinks and go elsewhere. It’s the best strategy.
This influx of Americans had almost ruined our little breakfast under the arches of the main square (coffee + huevos rancheros for 200 pesos). A few minutes wandering around the center and we’re back in good spirits. The colors red, ochre, and pink dominate, the streets are covered in cobblestones or large flat stones. Spotless cleanliness, as always. Around noon, we ate two dishes with half a liter of fresh orange juice at a snack bar on Collegio Street, right next to Plaza de la Soledad (150 pesos).
Speaking of Americans, we got in touch with some friends who are also American and live in San Miguel. Not all Americans are unbearable, of course! Our friends arranged to meet us in the evening on the Rosewood’s terrace. It’s a "classy" hotel located a bit outside the city center, which, given San Miguel’s size, is really only about a ten-minute walk from the main square. Since we had plenty of time, we took a little detour through Benito Juárez Park. A very pleasant spot, shaded and wooded, where people come to play, jog, picnic, sit on a bench ("thousands of them…", remember?), read a book, etc.
I recommend checking out the Rosewood—it’s a magnificent building with an original architecture I’d describe as Italian-inspired. Inside, a large circular hall features several high-quality works of art that are worth the detour. It’s almost like a museum! That’s where our friends were waiting for us.
There were a lot of people on the terrace ("rooftop"), but we found a good spot. After the usual small talk, we went to take some photos because the view was simply stunning. The warm colors of late afternoon, the red-tiled roofs, the pine trees piercing the greenery, the churches standing out in the background—it all felt very Mediterranean. Again, Italy came to mind.
Our friends took us to another "cantina", El Manantial, at the corner of Huertas and El Chorro. It would’ve only taken 10 minutes to walk there, but our friends insisted on taking a taxi (they *are* American, after all!). We tried one of the house specialties, ginger margaritas. Not bad, but Y and I agreed: we prefer classic margaritas. Since we’d only nibbled on appetizers at the Rosewood’s terrace, we ordered food. For four people, the bill came to the highest amount we’d seen during our six weeks in Mexico: 800 pesos (40 €). But that was for four.
The next day, following our friends’ advice, we took a local bus, a "camión", on Calzada de la Luz, at the end of Calle Relox. Destination: Atotonilco, about twenty kilometers away. It’s a village of fewer than a thousand people, famous for its church (and what else, we’re in Mexico!). The Santuario de Jesús Nazareno is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its Baroque architecture and decoration (dating back to the 18th century). For Mexicans, it’s also a spiritual landmark: during Mexico’s War of Independence, Father Miguel Hidalgo took up the banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe to lead the insurgent army.
It’s nice, but we were a little disappointed by the naivety of the interior after all the wonders we’d seen in Querétaro and San Miguel. From the outside, it looks very "Mexican": bright sun, white and ochre colors, paved road… Oh, and public benches, of course!
Our American friends had raved about the charms of a spa just outside Atotonilco. "10 minutes on foot," the nuns running the café next to the church told us. It took us more than half an hour to reach Escondido Place under a sun that was gradually becoming relentless. We hugged the walls where there was a bit of vegetation. Still, it was pretty at times—check out these beautiful religious statues framed by tall cacti we came across along the way.
Entry to Escondido Place was 150 pesos each. Not cheap. Plus, we had to buy swimsuits. Not much choice in a tiny shop, and that’s how we ended up spending 1,000 pesos, even after a little haggling. We weren’t too tempted by the pool—the place was nice, but the water looked cold. And Y is really sensitive to the cold (she’s Thai). No problem, though—there were these "caves" with very hot water, naturally heated, if I understood correctly. The caves weren’t natural, though; they were built. Bare brick walls and vaults—it was quite pretty. We were almost alone enjoying the place. At the back, the water gushed out hot and in powerful jets. It was bliss to stand right in front and let it hit your face—like an intense massage. There was enough space to take a few strokes.
On the way back, which we were a little nervous about—it was almost 2 km and very hot—we were lucky enough to get a ride in a pickup truck. The driver must’ve been surprised when he realized we were foreigners! But it’s just one example among many of how kind the locals are.
In the "downtown" of Atotonilco (see the JPEG below), we had to wait a good half-hour for the "camión" that would take us back to San Miguel. We made a farmer’s day by buying his fruit. We paid 20 pesos for two delicious avocados—"there are millions of avocados in Mexico"—and 15 pesos for something weird but tasty called "camaca" if I remember correctly.
The "camión" literally took the scenic route back to San Miguel. There must’ve been about twenty teenagers on the bus, fresh out of school. The people’s features clearly showed the importance of indigena blood in the countryside. We passed through small roads in a few villages. The rural setting reminded me of Isaan, Y’s province in Thailand.
At the end of the day, we had a great meal at Café de la Parroquia. The place was nice, the service friendly, the food good, and the margaritas excellent. Y was happy—you can tell from the photo (though I’ve blurred her face for privacy). Out of our entire trip in Mexico, this was where we had our best margaritas. The ones at the "cantina 21 Única"—just a stone’s throw from Café de la Parroquia—were also fantastic.
We take a local bus early in the morning on Calzada de la Luz to get to the bus terminal. Cost of the trip: 32 pesos for two, and as a bonus, the chance to get our backsides and spines massaged in a rickety bus. 🏴☠️ At the terminal, we buy our tickets to Morelia: 335 pesos per person for 170 km, with Primera Plus. Two departures a day: 7:30 and 19:30.
There are 2 or 3 fairly large lakes along the way, between what seem to be volcanoes. These lakes are certainly shallow since the road crosses them instead of going around. Maybe Mexico City and Tlaxcal-Puebla looked like this before becoming overpopulated? Morelia has roughly 1 million inhabitants and is the capital of the state of Michoacán. The historic city center is on a hill in the middle of a large valley. You can see the mountains all around.
After dropping off our meager luggage at the hotel, we head to the Plaza de Armas for lunch. We sit on the terrace of a restaurant with a park in front of us and the great Morelia Cathedral right behind. It’s on this kind of square that you almost always find decent restaurants and cafés in a Mexican city. Everyone around us clearly belongs to the city’s bourgeois class and are all white. This contrasts with all the street vendors, musicians, and other public entertainers who constantly pass by trying to make a little money—almost all of them darker-skinned and without a doubt mestizos or even indígenas of pure descent.
What I’m saying won’t surprise those who’ve traveled in Latin America. This social divide along physiological lines is something we also noticed in Colombia last year. A Spaniard we met later at a bus terminal (it was in Tuxtla) explained to me that no, of course, I’m not a gringo, but rather a « güero » or « güerito ». That’s how light-skinned people are referred to in Mexico. I’m not sure if gringos are also considered güeros; I don’t think so.
All these people trying to make money in public squares in Mexico can get a bit tiresome. Alright, you saw this coming:
« In Mexico, there are thousands of street vendors and people begging ».
Not far from the Plaza de Armas, the Mercado de Dulces y Artesanías is an interesting place to visit. Morelia seems, among other things, proud of its fruit pastes, and we don’t miss the chance to taste and buy some (Y is particularly fond of those made with tamarind). 😛 And we arrive at the Jardín de Las Rosas. It’s cute but not very big—we walk around it in just a few minutes. What we quickly notice on this tiny square is the statue of Cervantes. The commemorative plaque is dated 1947. It’s informative: « By creating the madness of Don Quixote of La Mancha, Cervantes forged the eternal monument of Hispanic genius. Castilian and very noble Morelia pays tribute, in this 4th century since its founding, to the eternal greatness of the soldier of Lepanto».
This quote opens several avenues for reflection. First, it’s remarkable that the city of Morelia so openly displays its "Castilian" pedigree. Doesn’t that feel a bit too Spanish and, dare I say, "conquistador"? Completely ignoring the conquered indígenas. Not even mentioning the 150,000 Purépechas in the state of Michoacán… It might be commonplace to say this nowadays, but personally, I feel a deep connection to all these peoples we Westerners have crushed. I know, I know, I might be falling into the well-known trap of the "noble savage" myth, but I can’t help finding a lot of beauty in these peoples (I’m attaching a JPEG of Purépechas I found on Wikipedia). And without a doubt, they were far from "savages"!
Second, I’ve often wondered what was so extraordinary about the story of Don Quixote. Now I’m starting to understand better. And at the same time, I’m beginning to grasp what lies at the heart of Spanish culture. You have to go to Latin America to better understand Spain…
Third, of Cervantes’ entire life—and apart from his literary work—Morelia mentions his presence as a soldier at the Battle of Lepanto. The Battle of the Holy League, Catholic of course, to block the expansion of the Ottomans, the Muslim enemies (that was certainly the spirit of the time). Morelia, like all of Mexico, is Catholic par excellence. You don’t see that much in Europe anymore…
More than the squares, public benches, and churches, it’s the grand arches of the buildings in the city center that really catch your eye in Morelia. Almost every house has them in their inner courtyards. You can see it clearly in the two photos I borrowed from Wikipedia. And then there are the magnificent doors. I’ll share a few examples below. Gorgeous doors are practically everywhere—pure delight for enthusiasts. Come on, all together now:
« In Mexico, there are thousands of stunning wooden doors ». 😎
Otherwise, it’s a beautiful city to explore, too. Inevitably, you end up back at the cathedral square, which is very lively. Today, there’s a market there in the name of a political protest movement, the FNLS, the « Frente Nacional de Lucha por el Socialismo » (no need to translate). This movement is active in several central and southern Mexican states (Michoacán, Hidalgo, Puebla, Chiapas). A large banner proclaims loudly, « 527 years of resistance and struggle against state terrorism and for socialism ». 527 years takes us back to the « discovery » of the « New World » by Christopher Columbus (he reached the Bahamas in October 1492). So it’s clear what this movement is standing against: colonization. It’s pretty surprising to see this displayed so openly in public, knowing that this kind of political movement can often lead to armed violence. 😕 Anyway, it’s very « Latin America ».
But we’re not here to dive into local politics. We move on and enter the cathedral. It dates back to the late 17th century and is known for being the largest cathedral in the country. A beautiful building, no doubt. The interior has a relatively understated style that’s far from unpleasant.
We found a great spot for lunch that’s both delicious and cheap. It’s at the Mercado San Juan, also called Mercado Revolución, about 1 km from the cathedral. The people inside are super friendly—we chat with several vendors and shoppers. Mexicans are very open, spontaneous, and generally quite charming. The « restaurant », if you can call it that, is on the side of the market where they sell fish (duh!). We sit at a counter and have two large bowls of « caldo pescado y camarón » prepared—fish and shrimp soup (Y is a shrimp fanatic). It’s excellent, especially with the spicy sauces on the counter—just pick the right bottle. We pay 160 pesos and get the owner’s big smile as a bonus. 😎
In the afternoon, we visit the Museo de Arte Colonial. It’s free, as usual. There are hundreds of crucifixes (no, I’m not singing my little song again this time). The Mexicans really go all out in this style—you can clearly see the influence of Spanish Catholicism. It’s not exactly what excites Y the most... or me, to be honest. I do stop in front of a painting depicting the Virgin Mary, though. We walk past so many paintings without trying to understand what they represent... Here, I stumbled upon a gem because there are explanations. On the left side of the painting, the Virgin Mary reaches out to rescue a soul from the flames of Purgatory. On the other side, a kneeling angel holds a basket where the Baby Jesus places flaming hearts (oh wow...). At the top of the painting, two cherubs place a crown of precious stones on the Virgin Mary’s head. Pretty mind-blowing, right?
A little diversion cools us down after that somewhat morbid religiosity: a model of the three nutshells Christopher Columbus used for his famous voyage. The irony? He never actually came to Mexico, a place Europe had never even heard of at the time.
To cool off even more, we head to the Jardín de Las Rosas, just 200 meters away, and treat ourselves to well-deserved margaritas on one of the terraces. 😉 Two each—clears the mind. And since it’s already the end of the day, we eat there, too. All for 550 pesos.
The next day, our last in Morelia, we visit the Casa de Artesanías del Estado de Michoacán. It’s right next to the Templo San Francisco, an imposing building on the square of the same name.
It’s a whole exhibition of handcrafted products from the state’s indígena communities, namely the Purépechas, Nahua, Mazahua, and Otomís. It’s impressive. Among other things, there’s a collection of figurines representing the dead. Yep, it’s everywhere—maybe because we’re getting closer to the famous « Día de los Muertos »? Besides that, there’s lots of wooden furniture, often richly colored, plenty of pottery, tableware, textiles, and I don’t even know what else—all really cool. 🙂
Everything’s for sale. We don’t check the prices, but we know that in general, things displayed so nicely in such a pleasant place are way more expensive than what you’d find in markets or shops. Still, it’s tempting. If I lived in Mexico, I’d love to furnish my place with this kind of stuff. But how do you buy anything when you’ve got to lug your luggage around for weeks, and when airlines limit your bags so much?
We were a little disappointed in the evening at Plaza Villalongin, 1 km from the cathedral. The guide (I actually used the Lonely Planet for once!) spoke highly of it. Sure, there’s a nice little park and the aqueduct avenue is well-shaded, but there aren’t many appealing spots to sit, have a drink, or grab a bite. If there are, they’re not obvious.
To be honest, we’re starting to get a bit bored. That might be putting it too strongly, but let’s just say this city isn’t as exciting for us as San Miguel, for example. No doubt, it’s a very pleasant and peaceful city, and if we had something specific to do here (like Spanish classes), we’d happily stay for a few weeks. There’s no sign of the troubles constantly talked about in Mexico. But in 3 days, we haven’t seen a single foreigner around here.
On the doorstep of our hotel, a skeleton with a giant scythe gives us a big grin, 😎 but it doesn’t stop us. Off to the bus terminal. Taxi: 70. Cookies and coffees: 60. On our way to Guanajuato!
If you look at the map of Mexico, you might wonder why we went from San Miguel to Morelia, then from Morelia to Guanajuato, which is close to San Miguel (San Miguel is in the state of Guanajuato). Morelia was quite a detour. The thing is, we found ourselves stuck between our booking dates and the Cervantino festival in Guanajuato—a bit of a logistics issue, really.
You should know that Guanajuato is nestled among a bunch of steep hills, and because of its "tortured" topography, the bus terminal is several kilometers from the city. We were a little nervous in the taxi—where on earth was he taking us? We’d booked a place in the Pastita neighborhood (neighborhoods or districts are called "colonias" in Mexico—odd, right?). Pastita is just outside the city center proper. The taxi driver struggled to find the address but kept at it, stopping several times to ask people for directions. We finally arrived at the top of a narrow alley that might spook some folks after dark. 😕
Getting around Guanajuato can be tricky. Several streets or roads pass under or over each other. Wrong turns are guaranteed, especially at night after a few drinks! But I’ll try to guide you a bit. At one point on the main road called Sostenes Rochas, you’ll reach Del Campanero: that’s the entrance to the pedestrian zone. If you turn your back to the pedestrian zone, you’ll see a small square where the street splits off and climbs toward Pastita. There’s the Sostene Rocha café—a nice spot to sit, grab a coffee, or something stronger. Just a little further down Sostenes Rochas, you’ll find Plaza Allende with the statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, right in front of the Teatro Cervantes (obviously).
Take Del Campanero street and go under the Puente Campanero (you’ll see people sitting on the bridge above your head, on the terrace of a café on another level). You’ll come out at a triangle formed by two streets branching off in front of you. At the corner, there’s the first little restaurant where we ate in Guanajuato. It was delicious. We really enjoyed the large, lightly grilled peppers. With a beer each, we got away for 320 pesos, plus a friendly chat with the owner, who raved about his sauces.
Once we were full (it was midday), we continued down the left street, which leads to the Templo de San Francisco, a bright pink church that... well, we didn’t go inside. Right next to it is the Museo Iconográfico del Quijote. Another statue of Don Quixote: a photo stop is a must.
Two hundred meters further, you’ll reach the Jardín de la Unión. It might be the center of the city, though that’s debated—this city is so twisted. Before going further, we turned left along the Teatro Juarez (there’s a small market where I bought a hat for 150 pesos) and arrived at the funicular, which took us to the top of a hill where the Pípila monument stands. At the funicular exit, several shops await, offering all the best of local crafts. I already had a hat, thanks! But of course, Y fell in love with the silver jewelry! Long story short: a few moments later, Y was showing off a pretty silver bracelet... and our wallet was lighter by about 1000 pesos. Oh well, it’s not every day!
On the monument square, there were lots of people—mostly Mexican tourists, but also a few foreigners: Japanese, Americans, and some Europeans. The views of the city surrounded by hills were amazing. 😎
Guanajuato unfortunately made international news due to the deaths of 12 police officers in the span of a week. 🏴☠️ It’s well known that there are extremely violent criminal gangs in Mexico. But the truth is, it’s not as dangerous a country as many people say. What foreign visitor would think of spending a few days in Culiacán, in the state of Sinaloa, where El Chapo’s cartel seems to rule? You might say, "Yes, but that happened in Guanajuato, a major tourist spot!" True, but let’s clarify: most of these recent disturbances took place in the state of Guanajuato, not in the city of Guanajuato itself.
And ultimately, even if—what’s the risk of getting caught in the middle of a shootout between police or the military on one side and cartels on the other? Mexico sees nearly 40 million foreign visitors a year—far more than Thailand, for example. And how many foreigners end up in a bad situation, like a shootout or kidnapping?
In the end… There’s no "end of the story" because everyone can play with statistics, and everyone will interpret them based on their own travel philosophy. For me, I figure I’m just as likely to get mugged in Paris as in Mexico. Mexico is huge, and I don’t see why I’d go to Culiacán or near the U.S. border, areas known to be dangerous.
Back to Guanajuato. It’s a stunning city where you make interesting discoveries around every corner. 😎 Just look at the photos I’ve attached. When we arrived at the Jardín de la Unión, we noticed, for example, this huge intriguing statue standing between the Iglesia de San Diego and the Teatro Juarez. Some will love it, others won’t.
I don’t have a photo of the Jardín de la Unión itself. Probably because I was too caught up in everything happening in this space, which is actually quite small: fountains and public benches (!), mariachi groups playing their ballads for customers sitting at café and restaurant terraces, vendors of all kinds, and so on. It’s very lively. No doubt even more so than usual since the Cervantino Festival is in full swing.
Next time, I’ll talk a bit more about the festival and explore Guanajuato further, beyond the extraordinary basilica of Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato.
The Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato is an absolute must-see. Built toward the end of the 17th century, it’s a relatively restrained example of Mexican Baroque. The statue of the Virgin, a gift from King Carlos I, actually dates back to the 16th century. I’ll say no more—I’ll let you judge from the photos.
To wrap up the churches, basilicas, cathedrals, etc. (at least for now), I have to share a few photos of the Temple of the Society of Jesus, right next to the university and just 200 meters behind the main artery where the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato is located. More recent (late 18th century), it’s said to be in the neoclassical style. I’m struck (!) by the depiction of the flagellated Christ. The Hispanic morbidity, isn’t it... yet it’s still magnificent.
The main artery—really just a slightly wider street—leads from the Jardín de la Unión and opens up at the basilica. That’s where Avenida Benito Juárez begins. In the late afternoon, it’s crowded. We had a few decent margaritas on one of the terraces. Further along, after a few twists in the avenue (Guanajuato really has a tortured topography), we found a cantina that felt more down-to-earth than the ones we’d “tested” in San Miguel. I think it’s just past the Mercado Hidalgo. “Los Barrilitos”: it was immediately a humbler Mexico. A dusty bar with a trough running along it where, someone explained, people used to piss back in the day. But these days, you go to a corner of the cantina to relieve yourself—it’s men-only. You’re barely separated from the room by a low wall. I’d seen this setup several times in Colombia. There were only men, by the way. You could’ve sworn you were in a Western, with the rough-looking, tough customers. Not at all! The people were really friendly. Surprisingly, after several Mexican songs, the jukebox played an Abba track! Well, you’ve got to come to Mexico to see that!
In this neighborhood, there are several hotels that might be worth trying next time. Still well-located in the city center, decent-looking, and probably cheaper than what you’d find in the fancier downtown areas.
Two nights in a row, we wandered around Plaza de San Fernando. It’s our favorite spot in Guanajuato. Really nice, with restaurants all around the square, lively terraces, and everything. There were shows every night as part of the Cervantino Festival. One performance I really liked: on either side of the stage, a Spanish singer and guitarist doing flamenco, contrasting with a folk group from the state of Guerrero. The steps of the Mexican dancers, a man and a woman, clearly echoed flamenco style, though much simpler... but the heel strikes were there! I regret not taking more photos.
On our way back to our lodging late in the evening, Don Quixote and Sancho Panza bid us farewell one last time: Guanajuato, even more than Morelia, is a city dedicated to Cervantes!
My story might be a bit dry in places and may have discouraged readers, judging by the lack of interaction. So, I’ll take a break before continuing with Mexico City, the capital, and talk about something else. After visiting all these churches so far, you start to get the impression that Catholicism plays a big role in the lives of Mexicans. There’s always someone there praying or reflecting.
But who exactly are they praying to? To God, Jesus, and the Virgin Mary, of course (have you ever noticed that no one ever prays to the Holy Spirit?). But also to a whole bunch of saints—and let me tell you, if you ever find yourself in a tough spot, facing a particularly difficult situation, feeling lost and not knowing which saint to turn to, don’t despair! Mexicans are here to help because they’ll know exactly which saint to call on. They’ve got a whole lineup they can "consult" when needed. Here’s a little list that might come in handy someday:
San Judas Tadeo, for hopeless cases
San Ramón Nonato, prayed to for protection against gossip
San Pafnucio, to find lost or stolen items, and to save women who’ve gone astray
Santa Úrsula, patron saint of little girls
Santa Alodia, patron saint of suffering and abused children
Santo Antonio de Padua, patron of lost people and also protector of women looking to get married
San Rafael Arcángel, patron of roads, drivers, and travelers
San Gerardo Mayela, patron of homemakers
San Pascual Bailón, patron of homemakers
San Francisco de Asís, patron of animals (including pets)
Santo Niño de Atocha, who delivers us from violence and danger
San Juan Soldado, only known in northern Mexico, near the U.S. border, protector of undocumented immigrants. Fitting for his specialty, this saint is himself "unofficial," if you will, since he’s not officially recognized by Rome. The Vatican should send a delegation to investigate around Tijuana or El Paso one day...
Also worth mentioning is the cult of the Virgen de Guadalupe, to whom women offer their hair as a sign of devotion.
If you can’t find the right saint for your particular situation in this little list, all that’s left is to book a flight to Mexico and ask the locals for advice. They’re so kind—they’ll definitely help you out since they seem well-prepared for this sort of thing! And if you’re unlucky with the church, you could always turn to the "brujos" (witch doctors)—some are said to be quite good.
My account is probably dry in places and may have discouraged readers, judging by the lack of interaction.
No, I’ve been following it from the start and was patiently waiting for the end to respond. I’m even more interested because your itinerary is more or less similar to my plan for an upcoming trip to Mexico, but in a maximum of four weeks. Initially, like you, I’m considering the colonial cities north of Mexico City, maybe as far as Zacatecas, then a flight to Chiapas OR Oaxaca. But I feel Oaxaca might be more interesting. What were your impressions on that?
That spiritual escapade to the Patron Saints was fascinating. I think some of them, stemming from syncretism with indigenous religions, aren’t recognized by the Vatican. In Bolivia, we noticed a multitude of Virgin cults: the Virgen of this, the Virgen of that—every little town seems to have its own Virgen. It’s amazing, this kind of syncretism between the ancient Incan gods and Catholicism.
As for the Holy Spirit, don’t be mistaken—it’s invoked in many prayers.
No worries, Georges!
I’m following along ...diligently.
My trip starts on February 8th in Mexico City.
Same itinerary.
Thanks for all the tips and varied stories!
No worries, Georges!
I’m following along ...diligently.
My trip starts on February 8th in Mexico City.
Same itinerary.
Thanks for all the info and varied stories!
Hi Martine,
Thanks for reaching out. Wishing you an amazing trip!
My account may be a bit dry in places and has discouraged readers, judging by the lack of interaction.
No, I’ve been following it from the start and was patiently waiting for the end to react. I’m following it with even more interest since your itinerary is more or less similar to my plan for an upcoming trip to Mexico, but in a maximum of four weeks. Initially, like you, I was thinking of the colonial cities north of Mexico City, maybe as far as Zacatecas, then a flight to Chiapas OR Oaxaca. But I have a feeling Oaxaca is more interesting. What were your impressions on that?
Interesting, this spiritual escapade to the Patron Saints. I believe some of them, stemming from syncretism with indigenous religions, aren’t recognized by the Vatican. In Bolivia, we noticed a multitude of cults dedicated to the Virgin: the Virgen of this, the Virgen of that—every little town seems to have its own Virgen. Fascinating, this kind of syncretism between the ancient Incan gods and Catholicism.
As for the Holy Spirit, don’t be mistaken—it’s invoked in many prayers.
Thanks for sharing. 🙂
Hello Michel and Chantal,
Nice to know you’re listening!
Four weeks for the colonial cities—just a few since there are so many—and either Chiapas or Oaxaca is doable, but it’ll be a bit of a rush with frequent moves. I think staying 2 nights in a place is okay now and then, but it shouldn’t be the rule or it gets tiring. 3 nights is more relaxing. Plus, there are places where it’s really a shame not to spend more time, like Oaxaca or Mexico City. So, four weeks is good, but you have to make choices—you can’t see everything.
Looking ahead to the rest of my story, we (Y and I) really liked San Cristobal de las Casas, but especially Oaxaca, which is worth 4 days or more. We spent 3 nights in Palenque, and that was too much. The town has absolutely no interest—it’s a recent city that only exists because the ruins were "discovered." Palenque is only worth visiting for the ruins. At most, one night would’ve been enough: after visiting the ruins the next morning, we could’ve taken the minibus to San Cristobal in the afternoon, stopping by the waterfalls (Misool Ha and Agua Azul). We also could’ve spent one less night in Morelia.
Regarding the religious questions, the cult of the Virgin is obviously prominent in these deeply Catholic Latin American countries. The Virgin of Guadalupe is perhaps the flagship, if I may say so, of Mexican Catholicism. She allegedly appeared to an indigenous Mexican in 1531. The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City is supposedly the most visited Catholic place of devotion in the world after the Vatican—that says it all.
The list of saints I mentioned earlier comes from the Mexican novel "Santitos." The author, María Amparo Escandón, tackles the subject with a lot of humor, quite dryly. Like the story of the "illegal" saint San Juan Soldado.
I have no intention of imposing my views, but coming from a Catholic background, I don’t recall any prayers addressed to the Holy Spirit. As far as I know, there’s no mention of such prayers in the Scriptures. Since I’m quite curious, I looked it up online and found, for example, these lines: "These passages show the role of the Holy Spirit in praise or prayer. We don’t address Him directly, but it’s through Him that we speak to God or the Lord Jesus."
https://www.bibliquest.net/JAM/JAM-Prier_Saint_Esprit.htm
I hope I won’t be criticized for spending time on these questions. But visiting Latin America while ignoring Catholicism means missing out on a lot. I’ll say it again—I have no intention of proselytizing. I’d say the same if I were talking about visiting Muslim or Buddhist countries.
As a Protestant, I have no interest in Catholic churches, and the Mexico of the Spanish conquest—which I detest—doesn’t appeal to me either. I’m going for the MAYAS and what remains of their culture
Le Mexique pour toujours après de nomb Les chiens aboient la caravane passe
As a Protestant, I have no attraction to Catholic churches, and the Mexico of the Spanish conquest, which I detest, doesn’t appeal to me either. I’m going for the MAYAS and what remains of their culture.
Hello Marie Françoise,
Like you—and I think like many others—I regret all the destruction caused by Spanish colonialism (and not just that), and I feel a pang of nostalgia when thinking about all those cultures that were crushed, if not wiped out. That said, what followed, specifically what came after the Spanish conquest, also has its own cultural and artistic interest.
Otherwise, I’d say we should also boycott the Taj Mahal since it’s the ultimate expression of Indo-Persian art that followed the brutal conquest of much of India by the Mughals. The Mughals were Muslim and destroyed countless Hindu temples and monuments.
This would make a great topic for reflection to post in the Travelers’ Thoughts and Reflections section.
As for not appreciating Catholic churches because you’re Protestant, fair enough—that’s a personal viewpoint. All I can say is that I appreciate beautiful mosques just as much, especially those in the Persian style (Iran, Afghanistan, India), as well as the extraordinary mosque in Córdoba, Spain—or Hindu temples—even though I’m Christian by background (having moved beyond strict religious labels).
Also, my partner, who is Buddhist and has no preference for one Christian denomination over another, really enjoyed all the churches in Mexico.
The bus from Guanajuato to Mexico City, the capital, leaves at 09:40 and arrives at 15:15 with Primera Plus (the schedules are generally respected to within a few minutes) and cost us 1360 pesos for two. From the bus terminal in Mexico City, we take a taxi that costs us 120 pesos. In bus terminals, you often find a kiosk where you can take a "secure" taxi at a fixed price (you pay at the kiosk). 120 pesos is 6 euros, which for a ride of a good hour is really cheap.
Here we are at the hotel, in the historic center. Simple but clean. We eat on the spot (220 pesos) then go for a walk. The historic center is "user friendly" (the recommended French translation "convivial" doesn’t quite capture the English expression), you can easily walk around the streets. Naturally, we start with a little reconnaissance tour toward the large central square, the Plaza de la Constitución or more simply the Zócalo. The term "zócalo," which refers to the central square in several Mexican cities, comes from the fact that in the 19th century, they wanted to erect a monument in the middle of this large square, but for economic reasons, the monument was never completed, leaving only... a large square, the base of the monument: "base" = "zócalo." It’s on this square that you’ll find the famous Mexico City Cathedral and right next to it, the ruins and museum of the Templo Mayor.
It’s drizzling and chilly, which isn’t surprising since the city is at over 2200 meters altitude. We take refuge with two margaritas each on a terrace somewhere between the Zócalo and the large park of Alameda Central. It was a promotion—2 margaritas for 100 pesos—and they weren’t good. She’s not shy. She gets up and goes to the counter to ask for an extra shot of tequila. She’s far from an alcoholic, but she doesn’t appreciate it when they skimp on the booze when she’s having a drink!
In the evening, we find a spot at the end of the hotel bar’s counter. There are only Mexicans in the bar, and only men. It’s a popular vibe—exactly what we need. To forget the mediocre margaritas from the afternoon, we order two more. These ones are excellent and (hic!) well-poured. The bartender is generous, or maybe he just took a liking to us right away! We eat a dish, still at the counter. It’s good. All in all, 300 pesos—no complaints. We’ll be back to the hotel bar; it’s a friendly spot. When we’re not chatting with the neighbors, there’s even stuff to read. The popular magazines on the counter fit the place perfectly—judge for yourselves: a cocktail (hic!) of racy photos and gory reports that remind us we’re in Mexico, in case we’d forgotten...
The next day, we return to the Zócalo, but this time we go inside the cathedral. It’s a massive building, supposedly designed after the concept of Seville Cathedral but even larger. Having covered enough about religious buildings, I’ll just share a few photos and let you enjoy them… or skip ahead if you’ve really had your fill of Mexico’s religious structures.
So: a beautiful wooden entrance door, the first altar you come across, covered in gilding (maybe or definitely a lot of real gold?); the grand altar at the back, which is truly overloaded with gold; two overall views; a statue of the Virgin.
Right next to it, we visit the ruins of the Templo Mayor. There’s a large model showing what the Templo Mayor originally looked like before the Spanish destroyed it.
Another model represents the city of Tenochtitlan as it stood in the middle of the lake that once occupied almost the entire Valley of Mexico. You can clearly see how the city was accessed by several long causeways. Here, we should mention Bernal Díaz del Castillo, a companion of Cortés, who wrote in 1568 his True History of the Conquest of New Spain, the most important and perhaps the most realistic source for understanding the circumstances of the conquest:
« and we saw the great square and the multitude of people there, some buying, others selling, and the noise of voices and words (of these people) carried for more than a league. Among us, there were several soldiers who had been to many parts of the world, and whether in Constantinople or Rome or elsewhere in Italy, they said they had never seen a square of such size and with so many people »
It’s quite something to imagine, isn’t it? 😮
Another model gives an overview of the Valley of Mexico: the lake, now filled in and swallowed by the megacity, is prominent, and in the background to the southeast (the direction I took the photo) you can clearly see the Popocatépetl volcano and its neighbor, the Iztaccíhuatl volcano.
Truth be told, not much remains of the Templo Mayor, but it’s still an interesting visit. And we certainly haven’t uncovered everything yet. What else might be found if they could excavate under the cathedral?
I hope I won’t get flogged for spending time on these questions. But visiting Latin America while knowing nothing about Catholicism means missing out on so much. Let me repeat, I have no intention of proselytizing.
Totally agree with you... It’s a nice change from all those “travel journals” about the Yucatán and that so-called Maya Riviera—all as bland and repetitive as each other.
Great reference to Bernal, the only biographer of Cortés, whose arrival in VERACRUZ was an exploit in itself—overlooked and never mentioned. 🤪
A few words about this ''encomienda'' system practiced everywhere by all the Spanish “conquistadores” for the greater good of the Most Holy Catholic Church, dear to Isabella.
No matter what you think or say, it was still a grand era: the time when Spain owned two-thirds of all known lands. 😛
….
A few words about this ''encomienda'' practiced everywhere by all the Spanish ''conquistadores'' for and by the greatest good of the Most Holy Catholic Church dear to Isabella….
About those "few words," I don’t quite follow you—was your message complete, or did you forget to add something?
As for the "greatest good," things didn’t improve after Isabella. It seems Charles V pushed very hard to extract maximum revenue from these new territories. He had huge debts from his perpetual wars and European ambitions. He really "squeezed the burnous" out of everyone, starting with Spain, where he wasn’t very popular. Not to mention the colonies, where he simply encouraged crime.
As for the 2/3 of known lands, the Spanish quickly faced unexpected competition from Portugal. In fact, they already had it—you could say that at the very moment of the conquest of Mexico, Portugal had become masters of the Indian Ocean.
About these “few words,” I don’t follow you—was your message actually complete or did you forget to add something?
Not at all. I simply don’t want to get involved in your account. It’s well done, well written, but mentioning that it was on the principle of l’encomienda that the most beautiful religious buildings were constructed by the indigenous peoples under Spanish rule, of course, for the greater glory of the Catholic Church and the religious communities—right up until the expulsion of the Jesuits by a certain Benito Juárez😎 (La Reforma).
Actually, after 6 weeks in the country, I get the feeling that everything is based on tortillas, whether it's tacos, quesadillas, or "chilaquiles" etc. Mexico is a country where there are thousands or millions of everything you could want, including millions of tortillas. Everywhere you go, tortillas are being made, by hand or by machine to go faster and make them in bulk… millions every day! They’re corn flatbreads, the Mexican equivalent of Indian "chapatis".
Hello,
It’s not really accurate to say that "everything is based on tortillas", but you could maybe say that everything in Mexico is based on masa. Masa is corn dough, mixed with a tiny bit of limestone powder. For example, the shape and preparation of tamales and gorditas are completely different from that of a tortilla, but their base is still masa.
I find the itinerary you took way more interesting than the 100% Yucatán routes we often see on this forum.
It’s not entirely accurate that "everything is made with tortillas," but you could say that maybe everything is made with masa in Mexico.
Thanks for the clarification! From a distance, everything looks a bit the same. So to be more accurate, I’d say there are millions of things made with masa every day in Mexico!
Since there are fans of Bernal Díaz del Castillo here, I’ll share another quote that really resonates, taken once again from his True History of the Conquest of New Spain, which captures the astonishment and wonder of the Spaniards when they arrived in Tenochtitlan. The Spanish prose is beautiful—almost poetic—so I’ll start by quoting the original text:
« Y de que vimos cosas tan admirables no sabíamos que decir, o si era verdad lo que adelante parecía, que por una parte en tierra había grandes ciudades, y en la laguna otras muchas, y veíamoslo todo lleno de canoas, y en la calzada muchas puentes de trecho a trecho, y por delante estaba la gran ciudad de Mexico »
« And when we saw such marvelous things, we didn’t know what to say, or if what lay before us was real. On the mainland, there were great cities, and in the lagoon many others. And we saw it all filled with canoes, and on the causeway many bridges at intervals, and ahead of us was the great city of Mexico »
When I showed my mom a small selection of my 2,000 photos after returning from this trip to Mexico, she had this thought: « And it was the Spaniards who deprived us of this culture? ». Because, indeed, you can’t forget what was here before... In 2019, 500 years after Cortés’ arrival, Mexico asked Spain twice to apologize for the conquest—something Spain never did.
After visiting the ruins of the Templo Mayor, under a light but unobtrusive drizzle, we enter the adjacent museum. You could spend hours there, not just looking at the exhibits but also reading the extensive annotations. To give you an idea, here are a few highlights from the photos:
- What’s found in the excavations: skulls, among other things—perhaps some of the 10,000 to 80,000 people sacrificed for the site’s inauguration in 1487?
- Examples of Aztec art, some truly intriguing. Turtle-spoon-men? Brazier-heads for burning copal, the aromatic resin, Mexico’s incense...
- Depictions of what the inhabitants of Tenochtitlan might have looked like. Nobles wearing improbable feathered headdresses.
There are several reproductions of animals typical of the country, and explanations of how they were divinized by the Aztecs. The jaguar holds a place of honor—wasn’t it the most respected, perhaps even revered, animal across all Mesoamerican cultures? For the Aztecs, under the name Tepeyollohtli, the “heart of the mountain,” it gave courage to the jaguar-warriors, the “océlotl”—the Nahuatl word that, of course, gave us “ocelot.”
Snakes, crocodiles, turtles, and others—animals were offered to the gods. There was even an organized commercial network to procure crocodiles from other regions of Mexico.
These practices around animals—and the pyramids—aren’t unlike those of ancient Egyptian civilization. Curious, right?
The museum’s centerpiece is a recent discovery. In 2006, during repair work after an earthquake, a massive stela (12 tons!) depicting Tlaltecuhtli, an earth deity, was found. It’s displayed flat in a kind of inaccessible pit, and I had to edit my photo to see the head roughly as if it were facing forward.
We’re back outside now. It was a fantastic visit, and honestly, for 75 pesos—just under 4 €—it’s absolutely worth the detour. One last photo of a beautiful door near the Templo Mayor (remember, in Mexico there are thousands of stunning doors!), and I’ll leave you for today.
We took the bus to Teotihuacán early in the morning. The round trip costs 104 pesos per person, and it takes about an hour to get there. It’s around 50 km northeast of Mexico City. Entry to the site costs 75 pesos, which is a real steal considering it’s undoubtedly one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world. Mexico isn’t expensive at all.
The site is huge. At the entrance on the right, there’s a museum we save for later since it’s better to visit the ruins before it gets too hot. We start with the Pirámide de la Serpiente Emplumada on the right. In terms of size, it’s the third-largest structure on the site and dates back nearly 2,000 years. It’s also called the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, but you should know that Quetzalcoatl is a Nahua word (the language of the Aztecs) and over a thousand years later—the Aztecs were a relatively recent people on the pre-Columbian scene. In fact, we know almost nothing about the people who built the city of Teotihuacán (another Aztec name). Some suggest they were the ancestors of the Otomís, or the Totonacs, or the Nahuas… But roughly speaking, the site is thought to be later than the Olmecs and earlier than the Toltecs.
In a gallery beneath the temple, the remains of 200 sacrificed people were discovered, likely for its inauguration. These Mesoamerican peoples definitely had some customs that wouldn’t fly today. 🏴☠️ Can you imagine if the day Notre-Dame is finally repaired, there’s a big ceremony and a few hundred of our fellow citizens are sacrificed? Well, the idea *might* have some appeal—after all, there are so many people we’d love to get rid of! 😉😠
The first four photos show the Temple of Quetzalcoatl. You can tell it must have been richly painted originally. Speaking of colors, here’s a friendly local in my fifth photo, basking in the morning sun. No, it’s neither an Otomí nor a Totonac, and certainly not an Aztec. But this little reptile definitely has a rightful place in the Temple of the Feathered Serpent! 🙂
Further on—much further (it’s a gigantic site)—after walking under a sun that’s really starting to heat up (the tall cacti don’t provide much shade), we reach the Pyramid of the Sun. It’s the largest pyramid in the Americas after the one in Cholula (southeast of Mexico City). Climbing it is quite the workout… “Come on, Y, one more push!” (Thais aren’t big fans of physical exertion…). At the top of the pyramid, we’re rewarded for our effort with stunning views of the surroundings. The Pyramid of the Moon marks the end of the Avenue of the Dead in the distance.
It’s not even noon, but there are more and more people, and it’s getting really hot. We’ve been exploring for a good three hours. Back to the entrance. Crowds of visitors are pouring between the shops (Y buys a nice hat for 250 pesos). Y points at someone in the crowd coming toward us and says, “Look, that guy looks like E., our American friend from San Miguel!”. Yeah, yeah, okay, there’s a resemblance… I keep walking, then stop: where’s Y? Another shop, maybe? No, she’s stopped to chat with the guy—and it *is* E., unbelievable but true. He’s here to show some friends around a site he’s already visited several times, no doubt. What are the odds of running into friends like that in such a crowd? 😎😮
We want to visit the museum but can’t find it right away, so we decide to take the return bus. You can have too much of a good thing, and it’ll be something new to see if we ever come back to Teotihuacán. On the way back to Mexico City, there are museums there too… but mostly ice-cold beers! 😉😛
This is our 4th day in Mexico City. We’ve already checked off the major tourist must-sees with the cathedral, Templo Mayor, and the ruins of Teotihuacán, so now it’s time to see what everyday life in the city is like. There’s nothing better for that than visiting a market. La Merced market is well located, in the historic center and just a half-hour walk from our hotel.
The whole neighborhood between the main square and the market is very lively and bustling. You can find everything in thousands of shops (no, I won’t start that little refrain again!) not to mention what’s sold on the sidewalks. With all the people loading and unloading their cars and pedestrians walking in the middle of the street, it’s not an easy area to get around in.
We arrive at La Merced market, meaning the covered one. It’s huge and really something to see. Piles of all these typical Mexican products: several kinds of peppers, different sizes and qualities of avocados, tons of limes (great for margaritas!), bags of dark brown or even black "mole" sauces—I think you buy this "dry" and dilute it with other ingredients when you cook—at very reasonable prices. You can tell this is a country that produces everything. So many things we eat came from Mexico; we wonder how people in Europe ate before its discovery. 😮
Of course, there are little restaurants inside the market. In the photo where my plate has chicken in a brown sauce, there are these green leaves that look like celery branches. The people next to us tell us it’s "pápalo". I forgot what it "tasted" like. The two of us ate for 80 pesos: 4 euros for two—wow, they might suspect we’re saving money to afford those margaritas! 😉 But Y didn’t find it fantastic; she’s getting picky! Luckily, we can always fall back on the hotel bar. We’re making friends there over a few beers or margaritas, and oh yeah, I almost forgot, the food’s good too. And I have to mention, I’ve found the perfect breakfast: "chilaquiles". I order them "rojos con huevos estrellados"; they’re spicy and super flavorful. 😛
We spent 5 days in Mexico City and, apart from our trip to Teotihuacán, we didn’t venture out of the historic center. Some might say there’s so much to see in other parts of the city, and I don’t doubt it for a second. But the historic center is already big enough to spend a few days there without getting bored. We’re not the type to try to see everything, rushing around from morning to night just to tick off boxes. Anyway, you can never see it all!
I left you last time at the Mercado de la Merced. Another market we visited was the Mercado de San Juan. It’s just a few hundred meters from the Balderas and Salto del Agua metro stations. We ate at a counter in the back—a ceviche and a caldo de camarón with two lemonades—for 250 pesos. There was a rodeo show on a TV screen in front of us, from a place called Rancho La Misión in the state of Guerrero (see the copy of a promotional poster). It was in a really convincing cowboy style, quite spectacular. Makes you wonder if you should go to Mexico to see that instead of the U.S.! Apart from that entertainment, we weren’t as impressed as we were at the Mercado de la Merced. It’s much smaller and can be crossed in just a few minutes.
From the Mercado San Juan, we walked up to the Museo de Arte Popular. Free, if I remember correctly. I recommend going—it’s really well done. We spent a good two enjoyable hours there. You’ll see traditional women’s costumes from different regions of the country, beautiful pottery (recent), textiles like this vibrant Huichol tapestry, and above all, devils and demons of all kinds and skeletons used in every possible way. Wow, Mexicans have an interesting psyche! 😇 Here’s a little selection for you. I’m sure you’ll appreciate some of these:
- The arena: the spectators, the bullfighter, and even the bull itself are skeletons!
- The little skeleton mermaid
- The skeleton musicians
- The oxcart called “The 7 Deadly Sins.” The demons riding the oxen are rejoicing!
- The “Mask of Purgatory”—I’ll give you a close-up showing a female soul being devoured by flames while another is snatched by the demon’s fangs. And at the top (another close-up), sitting among the flames with a napkin around its neck, a demon is about to feast on a soul lying on a plate surrounded by carrots and other vegetables. It’s called the “Mask of Purgatory”… Scary to think what hell might look like! 🏴☠️
There’s also a lot of information about Spanish and Moorish influences (via the Spanish), with plenty of maps showing the evolution of Iberian populations over time. It’s really worth stopping to read, but I just took photos and saved the “study” for later.
Finally, at the exit (or entrance, your choice), you can explore the diversity of indigenous languages, most of which are still spoken in Mexico, through two simple phrases: “thank you” and “welcome.”
Description du sejour:je vous fait un carnet dix ans apres mais mes souvenirs sont encore intacts. je ne vous donne pas de prix aproximatif d'abord parcqu'a…
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Hi everyone, we're back from a DIY USA road trip we organized from July 31, 2026, to August 26, 2026.
The destination: The Southwest USA, including Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Roughly 7,000 kilometers covered.
The car: A Chevrolet Equinox for two, rented through BSP Auto and Avis. Inside, we had 2 suitcases, a travel bag, two carry-on bags, a Walmart cooler, photo gear, and water bottles (a 40-pack).
The route: Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo, and back to Dallas to finish with a departure from DFW.
The travelers: Two seniors well advanced in years (73 and 75) but still active (nothing too physically demanding—to stay alive and fund our trips), fully independent physically, though a bit less so mentally. Big USA fans, a country where anything is possible. More walkers than hikers, preferring 3-star hotels over roadside motels, Italian restaurants over US food, frequent stops for photos, museums over nothing, naps over forced marches. Not too whiny, just enough to stay French in the land of the "great Satan," as they say.
Not great with languages—street English (but handy), and my Spanish is non-existent except for: "Hola! Una cerveza por favor!" That’s about it. My wife understands everything but refuses to speak.
The cost of the road trip: Around 12,000 €, including AF flights, the car, gas, gifts, visits, and everything else. Well managed, since we’d budgeted 13,500 € initially.
The positive side: A delight, with those endless open roads. Museums to discover. The realization of the Hispanic presence and its important history in this part of America. Lovely locals. Tourists who were more or less friendly. A terrible Texan accent that was hard to understand. Gas stations that were like real stores, with prepared food, alcohol sold in Arizona and New Mexico, and employees who were always up for a laugh!
The negative side: The heat throughout the trip... 43°C in Dallas at the end. Impossible to walk the streets. Lots of homeless people in downtown Dallas. Hotel breakfasts that were always the same. You get used to it.
So, it was positive overall, but the concept is starting to wear us out. We might rethink the DIY road trip model for next time. If the man upstairs grants us more time.
Next up, we’ll wait for the first batch of sorted photos to go through the wringer.
If I close my eyes and think of the Sultanate of Oman, I first smell a light scent of incense, feel the warmth of a sunbeam on my skin, before sand slips through my fingers. I taste the sweetness of a date, a real candy, then the flavor of coffee with a hint of cardamom and rosewater... I hear the desert wind whistling in my ears, the distant call of a muezzin, then the murmur of water. I open my eyes to see smiles, welcoming gestures, a turquoise sea, rocks ranging from ochre to purple, deep wadis where torrents burst forth, orange dunes, white sandy beaches where tiny crabs scurry at full speed. I see incredible oases emerging between arid mountains. I see abandoned villages that I’d dream were full of life, imposing fortresses overlooking valleys, and lively souks where offers are delicate and negotiation is a mutual courtesy.
All that, and so much more.
This is what I tried to capture in my illustrated travel journal, which I’ll fill in here and there with photos.
I drew this journal “cold,” after my return (actually, I made it this summer, while our trip was last winter). It’s a pretty special format—I bought it in Japan without really knowing what I’d do with it. Well, it found its purpose! Below is a photo of this accordion-style journal: here, it’s only partially open, because when fully unfolded, it’s 5 meters long!
For drawing enthusiasts: The accordion format is both a constraint (each sheet is 9 cm x 27 cm) and a freedom (you can create a fresco). The paper is also a bit special: it doesn’t allow for fine lines, but it takes ink well (liner pen). However, everything has to be done almost in one go (with a very light pencil sketch) because it erases poorly. It absorbs too much water for coloring with markers or watercolors (unless you avoid soaking it), but it works well with oil pastels and their use with a brush and solvent. Since it’s yellowish, it allowed me to create contrasts even with white pastel.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Oman is one of the world’s largest producers of frankincense resin. Incense burners are everywhere, from the simplest clay ones to the most precious handcrafted silver ones...
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
"So, my little wanderers, back at the decks? What’s this mystery destination you’ve got in store for us at the start of the year?"
Yes, the schoolyard bell’s ringing again! We’re hitting the road... or rather, the skies! At first glance, our destination might surprise more than a few. First off, simply because I was here exactly twenty years ago, and I don’t usually like retracing my own footsteps. Secondly, because the name of this place screams mass tourism—basically the opposite of what Flo and I look for.
Despite that, in this land of backsheesh, I’d promised myself I’d come back one day to experience it my way. And since Flo told me, during our wanderer chats, that this destination straddling Africa and the Middle East was in her top 2 travel dreams, the stars aligned for this roots-style trip to quickly make it onto our pharaonic festivities program! Unless you’re totally clueless in general knowledge, you’ve probably guessed by now—we’re off to Egypt! Of course, a few classics will be on our itinerary, but above all, we want to soak up a culture that can’t be appreciated in four-star resorts or on a Nile cruise boat. And let’s be clear, these next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park—neither for our two daughters who are joining us, nor for our bodies!
And that’s clear from the get-go: after our first flight, eight hours of trying (and failing) to sleep on Milan airport’s metal seats, our second flight, landing, passport stamps, our Uber ride, and our first Cairo kilometers, we finally drop our exhaustion at the little guesthouse we booked in Giza. Doesn’t all that energy deserve a little reward?
Oh, absolutely! And here it is: a full-on slap in the face for everyone! But just look at this view from our hotel terrace? For 20 € a night for four, even with this incredible view, I figured the room must be pretty shabby, right? Nope... Is the staff rude, then? Nope... Okay, so what’s the catch? You’re gonna tell me breakfast is included too? Well, yes! Honestly, this Egypt trip is off to a great start.
And the rest of the afternoon, spent rubbing shoulders with locals, only confirmed this vibe. After digesting our pyramid view, we dove into the hustle and bustle of our neighborhood with the goal of exchanging money, eating at street stalls, and testing the hospitality of the locals. Ten out of ten!
Eight little sun breads with baba ganoush and falafel? 80 pounds, or 1.5 €. A dozen Middle Eastern pastries? Same! 80 pounds! Two hawawshis, those little pita breads stuffed with meat and spices? 10 pounds each, or about twenty cents! Not to mention all those smiles and free "welcomes" left and right!!!
What a welcome! We end this first day with a sunset over the three sisters of Giza—where we’ll obviously be gawking tomorrow...
"How about a Christmas market this year, huh? A little romantic weekend getaway...
- Yes! That’d be cool! Strasbourg? Colmar?
- Feels a bit déjà vu, doesn’t it? Plus, slim chance of snow there... And I’d love something a bit more exotic with a touch of originality..."
"Okay, Google, give me the list of the five most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe.
- In fifth place, the Christmas market in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania.
- Save your breath! Lithuania, here we come!"
We wanted cold, and cold is exactly what we got the moment we set foot in this new, unknown land. As for landscapes, forests and lakes stretch as far as the eye can see across this vast plain, its vegetation scorched by the frost of a winter that’s clearly already well underway here.
Lakes, in fact, set the scene for our first visit to Trakai Castle, whose brick-red towers and walls rise proudly against the azure sky of our first day. Lakes, because this castle was built on an island and is only accessible on foot via a series of walkways spanning half-frozen lake offshoots. I couldn’t have picked a better spot to build my castle! Translation: We’re totally sold! Proof is we spend two hours hiking around the area, alternating between forests, reeds, and cozy houses tastefully decorated for Christmas.
I’m sharing a little recap of this new 4-week trip to China—nothing fancy, just my experience.
We’re taking advantage of the extended visa exemption to return to China for the 4th time. I loved last summer’s trip so much that I’m a bit worried about being disappointed this year. Plus, I’ve had a few hiccups before this departure: my WeChat account got blocked, and I couldn’t recover it (luckily, Alipay still works fine); I couldn’t verify my 12306 account for weeks; Trip.com failed to book our second train; and I’ve got an injury that’ll slow me down during the trip... Ugh, I hate starting a trip with these kinds of issues. Then, oh surprise! Just before leaving, my 12306 account got verified! Super easy to use from that point on—I could book a few train tickets without fees.
We’re sticking with Free’s e-SIMs, which work great in China.
August 2–3
Anyway, on the morning of August 2nd, we took the RER to CDG. As usual, we couldn’t check in online. It’s always a bit frustrating, especially since we didn’t have any checked luggage. We flew with Air China. We arrived at the check-in counter at 9:50 AM, 2 hours and 40 minutes before the flight. The line for our check-in stretched 300 meters across the airport in both directions. What a joke!! We spent 1 hour and 45 minutes in that line just to reach the counter and get our boarding passes. By then, it was 11:35 AM, and boarding had already started at 11:20 AM. The screens showed a 25-minute walk to our gate—on the other side of the airport, of course—plus we had to go through passport control and security... Long story short, the plane didn’t leave without us 🙂 We boarded among the last passengers, and we took off at 12:30 PM. We’d flown Air China four times before, but this time, it felt *really* low-cost. The check-in chaos, the cramped seats (12 seats per row), no music by artists known outside China, mediocre food, and a boarding area at Beijing Airport with only 10 seats—worthy of Ryanair or EasyJet. And yet, the price was sky-high. Again, D.’s vacation requests were denied outside of July and August, so we’re traveling from August 2nd to 30th. We couldn’t have picked a worse time for inflated prices, and with the situation in Iran, we got hit with a 390 € fuel surcharge. I’ve never paid so much for flights—I felt like I’d bought business class, but nope, far from it!!
We landed in Beijing around 4:15 AM. It was 28°C with thick fog. We drove and drove and drove for 20 minutes, as usual in Beijing. Then we went through a first check, a second check, a third check, and waited for our connecting flight at 6:40 AM. A small Airbus A320, but way more space than in the Boeing 777 from the first flight. We landed in Kunming, Yunnan, around 10:15 AM in the rain.
We headed to the subway. You can’t pay at the machines with Alipay here either, so we set up the transport QR code directly in Alipay to scan at the subway gates. The process is a bit long the first time if you haven’t entered your info before, but once it’s done, it’s *so* much easier! We took Line 6 to the terminus for 6 yuan each.
We’d booked a hotel nearby, on the 16th floor. It’s actually studios on different floors of a huge residential building. The view’s pretty nice from here. We settled in quickly—back to those wooden beds, or rather, mattresses as hard as wood, which we *hadn’t* missed...
Then we went out for our first bowl of noodles of the trip and wandered through the shopping streets of the old town.
It was crowded, and the weather was cool—around 19–20°C. We tried a local specialty: milk skin, thick, dried, then grilled with rose jam. Yeah... we won’t be having that again. The taste and texture of the milk skin... no thanks.
We saw a lot of wild mushroom hotpot too. It’s on our list for later. We also passed through the Jinma and Biji gates, where I played with reflections in puddles. I *love* doing that 🙂
At the end of the day, we headed to a temple advertised as open 24/7 on Amap. Of course, when we got there, it was closed. We’ll go back tomorrow. That was the first of many disappointments with Amap this trip—I hadn’t had that issue on previous visits.
We were exhausted after that sleepless flight. Night was falling, and we decided to grab a quick bite without much appetite. We shared a delicious vegetable fried rice for 12 yuan—we even left half of it. The portions are *huge*.
After a couple of small purchases, we headed back at 9 PM, wiped out, after walking 17 km between the airports and these first steps in Kunming. I expected to see quite a few Western travelers here, but we didn’t spot a single one. Instead, we met lots of curious Chinese people, many of them super friendly and helpful—almost *too* eager, like when they’d run to serve us as fast as possible. It’s a bit much, but it’s great to be back!
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
Here we go!!!
I left home at 4 AM on October 31st and headed to Barcelona. Driving through Barcelona on the ring road stresses me out a bit, but at 6 AM the traffic is smooth, and I arrive at the airport without any issues. I call the valet, who quickly comes to pick up my car. He takes photos of it from all angles before letting me go.
Baggage check-in hasn’t started yet, and there are already several of us waiting.
Once free, everything happens very quickly. The flight to Abu Dhabi is on time and goes smoothly. I’ve never had any problems with this airline, which I’ve been using for several years.
The flight to Bangkok arrives at 7 AM as scheduled. This is my first time in Thailand and Bangkok. I’m used to traveling in India, and I notice that everything here is well organized—the customs process is quick, and the luggage is already on the carousel.
I booked a taxi on Booking. All I have to do is find the right exit and door based on the agency’s instructions. A large sign with the names of people who booked is posted on a wall. A hostess greets me and calls the taxi, which arrives 5 minutes later. I booked one night at the Lost Inn BKK hotel in the Phra Nakhon district, and we arrive at 9 AM. The welcome isn’t warm, and I have to wait until noon, sitting on a chair, before I can check into my room. I’m exhausted, and sleeping sitting up isn’t ideal. Noon finally arrives—the room is small but clean, which is fine for one night. I quickly take a shower to wake up because I plan to spend the afternoon visiting the Grand Palace. First, I need to exchange some money, and the banks are all close together on the same street, which is very convenient. When I enter one, a hostess gives me a ticket and invites me to sit down. There are about twenty counters, and I wait quietly until my number is called. The exchange is quick, so I can head out to find the Royal Palace. It’s actually very easy, and the walk is pleasant.
Entry to the Royal Palace (500 baht).
It’s magnificent and grand, and there are quite a few of us visiting. The sky is gray, it’s very humid, and a shower interrupts the visit. It’s a vast complex of temples and palaces. The buildings are colorful and sparkling, with a great sense of serenity (without the tourists, of course). I quietly enjoy the place and try to take photos without tourists, which isn’t easy.
Very close to the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in the capital.
It’s very famous for its 46-meter-long reclining Buddha statue.
Walking around the temple, you can see different representations of Buddha, all covered in gold leaf.
Inside the temple, on one side, monks recite their prayers, while the other side is reserved for tourists who come to meditate in silence.
Before returning to the hotel, I have dinner at an Indian restaurant. I go to bed early because tomorrow’s wake-up call will be very early again.
Saturday, November 2nd
Wake-up at 4 AM, departure from the hotel at 4:30 AM. The taxi I booked via Booking is waiting for me and takes me to the airport. The trip is fairly quick—he takes small roads, and at this hour, there’s no traffic.
The flight to Phnom Penh is on time. Before boarding, I realize I left my fleece jacket on the carousel, but it’s too late to go back for it.
The flight goes well, and customs is quick.
At the exit, I take a tuk-tuk to Julieka’s GH near the museum. The welcome is friendly. I won’t be able to check into my room until noon, so I take the opportunity to exchange some euros on the market street. The street is lined with restaurants, and I’ll have my first meal there.
The museum is right across the street, so I don’t waste any time visiting it.
The representations of Hindu deities are very different from those in India, and I don’t recognize them. Many beautiful Buddhas are on display.
The museum is very pleasant, and there aren’t too many people, which is a plus.
At the exit, I return to the GH, settle into my room—which is decent and clean.
The Royal Palace is 1 km away. I walk along a garden, and at the end of the street is the Tonlé Sap, but I turn right. I arrive at a large esplanade and see the buildings with tiered roofs and glazed tiles. The entrance to the palace is a little further away.
At the entrance, I notice there isn’t the same crowd as at the one in BKK.
Khmer architecture is magnificent. The complex consists of gardens, palaces, pagodas with golden roofs, and slender spires.
The Silver Pagoda houses the small Emerald Buddha, which is actually made of jade. The silver flooring is covered with carpets. Photos are not allowed.
The walls surrounding the pagoda are covered with frescoes depicting scenes from the Ramayana.
My partner and I traveled from Sunday, July 5, 2026, to Wednesday, July 22, 2026.
We spent a long time debating whether to rent a car or use public transportation. In the end, after reading so many posts about travelers getting scammed by police or rental companies—even those recommended by blogs and reviews—we decided to stick with public transport. It worked out really well. Sure, we had a little less freedom to go where we wanted, but it was way less stressful for us.
Sunday, July 5:
Arrived at Cancun Airport. Withdrew cash from the ATM in the terminal just before exiting. The ADO bus counter (they pronounce it "A-Jee-O") is right behind you when you're facing the ATM. Bus to downtown Cancun cost 145 pesos per person.
Stayed at "Rose 5," booked on Booking. The studio was super clean and perfect for one night. The owner’s instructions for accessing the place were very precise, with photos included. Check-in was self-service with a code. The ADO bus terminal isn’t far, and there are shops and restaurants nearby. We really appreciated that the AC was already on when we arrived. By the way, I’d recommend always booking places with AC—it’s *really* hot in Mexico.
Monday, July 6:
Bought a SIM card with data from a TELCEL store. My partner, who’s on Free Mobile, was able to use her regular plan. Just so you know, I found the network pretty unstable. As soon as we left the cities, neither of us—me with TELCEL or her with Free—had any signal.
Another thing to watch out for: roaming charges. I had to turn my SIM back on for less than 30 seconds to get a bank SMS code, and my phone apparently connected to the internet—resulting in an 8-euro roaming fee.
Left on an ADO bus to Chiquila for 278 pesos per person. During our trip, ADO buses were always on time, comfortable, and clean. The AC is *cranked* though, so bring something to cover up with—it gets cold. Some routes were fully booked even in the low season, so try to reserve 1 or 2 days in advance either via the app (when it works) or at the counter.
When we arrived at the ADO terminal in Chiquila, the ferry company counters were right next to it. Ferries leave every 30 minutes, alternating between companies, so no need to book ahead. Just take whichever one is leaving next (330 pesos per person).
When we got to Holbox (pronounced "Hol-bosh"), we’d booked a place via Booking called "Casa de Nana." It was a huge studio with a fridge, cooking plate, and utensils. The best part? The *location*. It was 100 meters from the beach and 200 meters from a Chedraui supermarket. They provided bath towels and beach towels, and the AC worked perfectly. There’s a key box so you can leave your keys inside when you go out. The only downside was that no one was there to let us in when we arrived, so we had to wait a while. The Wi-Fi was good, which was lucky because during our 4-day stay in Holbox, the phone network *never* worked. According to locals, that’s pretty common in Holbox, along with water outages.
Luckily, I’d had the good idea to download an offline map, which helped us find our way back to the place more easily. You can walk there from the dock.
The restaurant next to our place (La Barracuda) was great if you like seafood—I’d recommend their octopus dishes.
Tuesday, July 7:
We did a kayak tour in Holbox’s mangroves at 6 AM. We were looking for a sunrise kayak tour with a French-speaking guide. That’s exactly what we got with "Kayaking Holbox," where Diego, the owner, speaks English and French. He was joined by Gustavo, another guide.
We’d booked for a group tour, but we were the only ones. Diego still went ahead with it instead of canceling due to lack of participants, so we got a private tour at the group rate—really professional of him. They showed us this amazing ecosystem for over 3 hours. We saw all kinds of birds: pink flamingos, pelicans, egrets, frigatebirds... rays, a horseshoe crab, and a little crocodile that was *so* well hidden. Diego and Gustavo have a real eye for spotting animals—I could’ve passed by the crocodile 100 times and never seen it, it blended in so well. Their explanations about the flora and fauna were super interesting. We also got a little break where we tasted mangoes and bananas that taste *nothing* like the ones in France. A real treat—those little Mexican yellow mangoes! I’d definitely recommend Diego and his agency for a French-language kayak tour (1000 pesos per person).
In the evening, we walked to Punta Coco to see the bioluminescence. No need for a guided tour—if you really don’t want to walk, you can take a taxi. At Punta Coco, you have to pass the beach bar/restaurant and then go left into a kind of inlet that forms a lagoon. You have to wiggle your feet or move your hands in the water to create movement, which makes the light appear. Just don’t expect the kind of photos you’ve seen online—they’re all edited! It’s fun to see, but you won’t be dazzled by the light...
Wednesday, July 8:
Whale shark tour with "My Holbox Tours." Why recommend this agency over others for swimming with whale sharks? Simply because Valérie surrounds herself with top professionals to make your experience unforgettable. We were with Captain Fernando, who does everything to position the boat perfectly and make your swim easier. In the water, we were with Humberto, who also goes above and beyond to make sure you have an incredible time. He doesn’t just "supervise" like some guides from other companies who leave you on your own. No, Humberto reads the whale shark’s trajectory and guides you—all you have to do is follow him. He really puts in the effort, even holding your hand to guide you through this quick but intense encounter. Humberto also films the moment and will offer to show you the videos and sell them to you. His footage is really high quality.
Fernando and Humberto also prepared food for us. Special mention for their guacamole! Valérie is there to make sure everything goes smoothly on the boat and to answer your questions in French, English, or Spanish about these animals. If you choose My Holbox Tours, you can be sure you’ll get a top-notch experience.
About the tour itself: before you go, you should know that the sharks can be *really* far away. The day we went, it took 3.5 hours by boat to reach them. The boats are small, and let me tell you—on the way there, when we weren’t going with the waves, it was *rough*. Out of 9 passengers, 4 got seasick. But once you’re face-to-face with the shark, you forget all about that. Even if swimming with a whale shark isn’t exactly a walk in the park—they swim pretty fast, so you need some endurance to keep up. You’ll usually get 2 turns. Our first swim lasted a little over 4 minutes, and the second about 2 minutes because the shark was moving fast and we were still tired from the first swim. It might seem short, but when you’re swimming, it feels *long*. Either way, it’s an experience you *have* to do—but choose your company wisely. On the way back, there’s a stop at Cabo Catoche. Honestly, the snorkeling is pretty disappointing if you’ve done it elsewhere in the world. But the lunch stop at Cabo Catoche is really nice for relaxing (white sand and hammocks).
Thursday, July 9:
Short morning walk to Punta Mosquito at 6 AM. Really nice.
Ferry to Chiquila (330 pesos per person) + ADO bus to Valladolid (300 pesos per person).
In Valladolid, we booked "Casa Lucia" via Booking. The hotel is gorgeous, with a colonial style, and very close to the ADO bus terminal and downtown. It’s super quiet and clean. There’s a shared kitchen you can use with a fridge, microwave, and water dispenser, plus a big table by the pool and a nice indoor terrace. Breakfast was simple but included. The only small downsides were the tiny room and bathroom, no mirror in the room, and a noisy fan.
Friday, July 10:
Not far from the ADO bus terminal is the colectivo station for Chichen Itza. They offer a round-trip to Chichen Itza with an option to stop at Ik Kil cenote on the way back and then drop you off in Valladolid for 370 pesos per person (Ik Kil entrance included).
For the Chichen Itza visit, we’d booked a tour with a guide often mentioned in groups—his name is Juan Pat. He’s a Maya who lives near the site and speaks excellent French. He reserves spots in advance for you and queues up to be the first on-site. It cost 500 pesos per person + entrance fees. His tour lasts 2 hours and focuses mainly on the main pyramid and the ball court. He’s passionate and fascinating, even if some of his claims, as a Maya, might be a little biased. I think it’s *really* important to have a guide—otherwise, you’ll miss so much. You can contact Juan Pat on WhatsApp at +52 985 121 2381.
Afterward, we went to Ik Kil cenote (showers and life jackets mandatory, lockers available). It’s *very* crowded, but still really beautiful with its lush vegetation.
Saturday, July 11:
Since we didn’t have a car but still wanted to visit other cenotes that seemed hard to reach by public transport, we decided to book a taxi for the day. We agreed on 1200 pesos to take us to 3 different cenotes and wait for us at each one. (To find taxis, just look where they park near the ADO bus station.)
He picked us up at Zaci cenote, which we’d walked to. We got there at opening time and were the first ones there—had the place to ourselves for a while! 150 pesos per person. A pretty cenote in the city center with lush vegetation. It’s a bit like Ik Kil but without the deep cylindrical effect.
Cenote Xcanahaltun: the most beautiful cenote we visited. Entry 250 pesos per person. It’s a closed cenote with a hole that lets light in—a cave-like setting. You can kayak inside. There are little fish at the edge that nibble dead skin off your feet. Since it’s closed, the water is *freezing*!
Cenote Palomitas: entry 250 pesos per person. Another stunning closed cenote, even more enclosed than Xcanahaltun. The hole in the ceiling is smaller, so it was pretty dark when we arrived—kind of an eerie vibe. But when the staff turned on the lights, it looked like a "Gothic cathedral" full of bright stalactites.
Cenote Sac Aua: entry 290 pesos per person. The ticket includes a guided cave tour (tip-based). This cenote is really unique with its central island and way less crowded than Suytun. Just so you know, the water is *really* cold in cenotes. In these three, in July, we had the place to ourselves for a while and never saw more than 2 families at once—so peaceful!
Sunday, July 12:
ADO bus to Bacalar (536 pesos per person).
In Bacalar, we stayed via Airbnb with a host named Luli, who offers several rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen.
The room is nicely decorated in a pleasant setting. It’s ideally located near the lagoon and downtown. The shared kitchen is handy. The mosquito net over the bed is useful because there are *a lot* of mosquitoes in Bacalar. Luli provides a water jug, which is really nice. The only big downside is the lack of water pressure in the shower—we had to rinse off by filling a bucket. Also, there’s no real door separating the room from the bathroom. We never met Luli in person, but she was very responsive via messages. The terrace in the middle of the vegetation is lovely.
From the ADO terminal to the place, we took a taxi for 40 pesos. Since this driver was honest about the price (we’d checked beforehand), we decided to use him every time we needed a taxi in Bacalar. Here’s his WhatsApp: +52 983 184 3585.
Monday, July 13:
We did a boat tour on the lagoon with "Bacalar Francophone Activities." Since we were just the two of us, it cost 3500 pesos. If we’d managed to be 4 people, it would’ve been 1000 pesos per person.
We had a private 4-hour tour on the lagoon with Steeve and his very comfortable boat. He’s from Quebec, so his French is perfect. During those 4 hours, Steeve showed us the lagoon’s iconic spots *and* places other boats don’t go. He told us about the lagoon’s history and gave great tips on where to go and where to eat. As a little bonus, he gave us a video taken with his drone during our swimming break.
Tuesday, July 14:
We went to Los Rapidos by taxi (400 pesos round trip) and entry was 225 pesos per person. It’s *very* touristy but really beautiful. You can eat there (expensive), relax, and go down the "rapids" as many times as you want. It’s worth it if you spend a few hours there. You can’t bring in food or drinks—you leave them at the entrance and pick them up on the way out.
Wednesday, July 15:
On Wednesdays, navigation is banned on Bacalar Lagoon, so we’d planned another excursion.
Visit to Calakmul from Bacalar with ABCtours (WhatsApp +52 983 319 8359).
This agency organized a trip from Bacalar to Calakmul with a French-speaking guide. Communication beforehand via WhatsApp was smooth. Mr. Checo, the driver, and Fernando, the guide (who spoke great French), picked us up on the day. Mr. Checo drove very carefully on the long road and always made sure we were comfortable. Fernando is passionate about flora and fauna—he’s a biologist with a degree in ornithology, so he knows *everything* about animals. The slightest sound or song, and he knows what it is. He’s got an eye for spotting them, from the biggest to the smallest.
During the trip, we stopped at km 27 for a short forest walk, then went to see the two main pyramids on the site. On the way back, we stopped at the bat cave for the magical spectacle of millions of bats flying out at dusk. In the end, we saw or glimpsed (some briefly) spider monkeys, howler monkeys, a toucan, 2 tapirs, turkeys, 2 deer, and lots of birds. If, like us, you’re more into flora and fauna than archaeology, I’d *highly* recommend this agency and tour with Fernando.
It’s not cheap, but the road between Bacalar and the site is *long* (3.5 hours). Price: 3900 pesos per person for 2 (3500 for 3, 3200 for 4).
Thursday, July 16:
ADO bus to Playa del Carmen (614 pesos per person).
In Playa del Carmen, we stayed in an Airbnb. The building is on the town hall square, next to the casino.
The best thing about this place is the *location*—super close to Fifth Avenue (La Quinta). The kitchen is pretty basic, but the fridge works well. There are supermarkets nearby. The rooftop pool is really nice. The two big downsides, though, are the soundproofing (you can *hear* the neighbor’s alarm and all the events on the square) and the *total* lack of water pressure in the shower. We had to fill a trash can with water to pour over ourselves. When we told the owner, he said it wasn’t normal and someone would come fix it, but we never heard back. Based on previous reviews, this seems to be a known issue that never gets resolved.
Playa del Carmen is *very* touristy on Fifth Avenue, but in a fun, musical vibe—we never felt unsafe. There are *tons* of little souvenir shops for tourists on this street. There’s a beautiful monumental sculpture on the beach (the two figures meeting in the air), next to which you can see the Voladores show (men climbing a pole, tying themselves with ropes, and descending headfirst while "flying" around the pole). The show is tip-based and happens several times a day. In our opinion, Calle 38 is prettier than Fifth Avenue—it’s lush, green, and quieter, with the sea at the end. Great for an early evening stroll. We had really good meals at great prices at "El Tio Noy" tacos, just a few meters from Fifth Avenue in a side street.
For souvenirs, we’d recommend going to Walmart instead of Fifth Avenue—you’ll find skulls, tequila, mezcal, keychains, mugs, glasses... at good, fixed prices.
Friday, July 17:
We did the excursion to Isla Contoy. Isla Contoy is an uninhabited, highly protected island. Only 200 people are allowed to land per day on a rotating basis, so only a few companies have permission to dock there. Most agencies subcontract the day to a third-party company.
We booked through VRM (Viviendo Riviera Maya), but it was Ocean Tours Mexico that handled the tour. Contoy is a little paradise. We were accompanied by multilingual guides, including French speakers, throughout the day. Steffy gave us info about the island during a short walk on the marked trails, and Leño Tlatemoa kept the mood up on the boat rides with music and dancing. Isla Contoy is *truly* stunning, and the lunch was delicious: grilled fish and chicken, guacamole and tortilla chips, rice, fruit, drinks (everything is brought and taken back by the guides). The snorkeling part was pretty disappointing if you’ve done it in Cozumel, though. The stop at Isla Mujeres isn’t very interesting either—it’s too short to explore, and the island is *extremely* touristy. Still, the excursion was very well organized, and we had a great day (2970 pesos per person).
Saturday, July 18:
We wanted to go snorkeling in Cozumel but thought the prices from French-speaking agencies were too high. Plus, for snorkeling, we figured we didn’t *need* a French-speaking guide.
So we found a much cheaper solution by taking the ferry from Playa del Carmen ourselves and choosing an agency in Playa. The round-trip ferry cost 663.50 pesos per person. Then we took a taxi to the snorkeling boat (100 pesos). The agency we chose is called Mystic Snorkel—they don’t have a physical office. The tour cost 1400 pesos per person. It was a small boat, but that day we were the only ones, so we got a private tour at the group rate. We stopped at 4 different sites, all very different and beautiful. We saw all kinds of fish, corals, a nurse shark, and turtles. El Cielo, with its huge starfish, is *exceptional*. If you’re going snorkeling in the Yucatan Peninsula, this is *the* tour to do—the other sites are pretty "poor" in comparison.
Sunday, July 19:
Morning dive with Triton Diving. I chose the Cozumel dive option. Great experience.
Booking via WhatsApp was easy. On the day of the dive, Selene, who speaks French, was our guide. She’s *very* attentive to the group’s safety. The briefings are clear and precise. In Cozumel, we did 2 very different sites: the first was a drift dive with lots of life—beautiful corals and fish. The second was a wreck, the C53, a 56-meter boat you can enter. Not much marine life, but a beautiful wreck intentionally sunk for divers—still in great condition. An unforgettable moment. Selene even took videos during the dive, which the club sends you for free afterward. I’d *highly* recommend this club.
Just so you know, in Playa del Carmen, the beaches were full of sargassum during our stay, despite barriers and daily cleanup. Locals told us the problem is getting worse and the sargassum is arriving earlier in the season. Tourism has taken a *big* hit this summer, and they’re wondering if tourism can even survive the sargassum season anymore. A lot of tourists are heading to the islands—Isla Mujeres and Cozumel—to enjoy the beaches, as the west side of those islands is sargassum-free.
Monday, July 20:
Colectivo to Puerto Morelos. First, a colectivo toward Cancun that drops you off between Puerto Morelos town and Puerto Morelos beach (40 pesos per person), then another from that junction to the beach (10 pesos per person).
In Puerto Morelos, we’d booked a room via Airbnb at "Piedra del Caribe." *Best* place we stayed in Mexico. It’s an aparthotel. Our room was ready before check-in, so they let us in early. The place matched the description—spacious, with a comfortable king-size bed. The shower had *great* pressure, which isn’t a given in Mexico. The staff was super friendly and welcoming. They let us use the pool, restrooms, and rooftop shower after check-out while we waited for our ride to Cancun Airport. They even kept our luggage. I *highly* recommend this place.
In Puerto Morelos, there was *way* less sargassum than in Playa del Carmen—it was actually swimmable.
We did the snorkeling tour with the fishermen’s cooperative for 450 pesos per person for 2 hours. The reef is close to the beach (you’re not allowed to swim there), so the boat ride is short. It’s not as pretty as Cozumel, but it’s nice and affordable. On Puerto Morelos’s page, you can also access a small, not-very-well-preserved reef. There’s also a cenote in the sea where fresh water mixes with saltwater—the water is murky there. We had a great dinner and excellent cocktails at "La Choza del Puerto."
Tuesday, July 21:
Wandered around Puerto Morelos (check out the church and read everything—it’s entertaining!), relaxed by the hotel pool, and left for Cancun Airport by taxi (400 pesos) booked via InDrive to head back to France.
Our highlights:
- Holbox
- The whale shark tour
- The cenotes
- The local flora and fauna (so present!)
- Isla Contoy
- Cabo Catoche (except for the snorkeling)
What we liked least:
- The bioluminescence (barely visible despite good conditions)
- The food—we found it not very diverse in taquerias
- The constant tipping
- The lack of water pressure in showers (fixed, wall-mounted, no hose or showerhead)
Don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions while it’s still fresh in our minds.
Traveling with just one spare pair of underwear, considering a hot shower a miracle, never staying in the same place too long by sleeping wherever night catches us, taking whatever local, improbable, and rickety transport we can find—this is the DNA of us wanderers. Except this time, the script for our movie is going to be a whole different genre. On paper, the destination doesn’t exactly scream epic adventure: Réunion! And what’s more... we won’t be two, or four, or even ten. We’ll be a solid thirty. All from the same family. Yes, thirty. At this point, it’s not just a trip—it’s a summer camp on the move! Why inflict this on such a peaceful island? Because my brother decided to get married there with his lovely bride. A great idea, you might say... especially when it involves relocating the equivalent of a small Ardennes village 10,000 kilometers from home for three weeks! So who’s stepping up to be the guide and wave the little flag?
So, for an exceptional trip, exceptional stories! Don’t worry, the debates at the supermarket over whether to choose plain chips or roast chicken chips, the beach picnics washed down with ti’ punch, and other rougail sausages to digest by the pool will only make it into the family archives. Here, I’ll stick to the tales of our beautiful escapes, the ones where we explore the wild corners of this little volcanic rock planted in the middle of the Indian Ocean. So where exactly are we headed?
For the first week—the subject of this first installment—we’re taking it easy. We’ll start by rediscovering the coastline, from the Souffleur in Saint-Leu to the Hermitage lagoon, before a little trip to the Cirque de Cilaos and its legendary road with 400 turns, just to get our legs warmed up.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of three years at most in Thailand, and I’m not a big expert on the country.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to piece together a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who miss it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guards for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big property, be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t really made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though, are much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been broken for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the side of the road, sometimes right on the road. When you arrive, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, which reminds visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. Seeing a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you might think it’s best not to cross paths with them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at temples on the brink of death, enduring terrible suffering. No one did anything about it. The image (and the smell) of one of them, dying and emitting the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The well-fed animal quickly became a happy, enormous beast with its own garden. Yet, it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water in them for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not a gimmick—it’s just that these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long.
To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later.
We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.
We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.
This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam.
The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.
Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.
Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.
A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.
12/07/2013
The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people.
So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom.
That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.
We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.
Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver.
Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!
We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.
After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.
At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.
We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.
That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.
Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.
Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.
We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.
Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!
Hi there,
I just got back from a trip to Sri Lanka from December 18th to January 1st with 2 adults and 2 kids (12 years old).
If it helps, here’s my itinerary.
We left on December 18th from Madrid with Qatar Airways. No complaints. I booked my tickets back in March for 800 € per person. (I flew from Madrid because I live near the Spanish border and was too worried about strikes in France.)
We arrived on December 19th at 4 PM (local time). Before leaving France, I’d booked a taxi through MyTransfer for 59 € to Sigiriya. A van was waiting for us at the airport exit.
A never-ending 3-hour drive to Sigiriya. We stayed at Samana Guesthouse—very simple, clean, with a pool and an excellent Sri Lankan breakfast. Shower and straight to bed.
Friday, December 20th: Beautiful weather, but very humid and hot. We visited Lion Rock (36 € for adults) and then Pidurangala.
I loved both sites—they’re a must-do in my opinion.
Spent the late afternoon by the pool.
Saturday, December 21st: Another gorgeous day. The guesthouse manager offered us a free 2-hour tuk-tuk tour. We first visited a lake, rice fields, the temple, and the Sigiriya market, plus the usual tourist trap—the botanical garden (no pressure to buy anything at the end).
Then we took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Temple, the Golden Buddha, and the wholesale market.
Sunday, December 22nd: Still beautiful weather. I’d booked a taxi for 8 AM. We did all the long trips by taxi to save time. I’d ask for prices from 2 or 3 WhatsApp taxi agencies 2 days or the day before—super responsive, always got replies within 5 minutes. We headed to Ella (4-hour drive) for 22,000 LKR.
Arrived in the afternoon at Rest Full Homestay—a small, family-run guesthouse. Clean, cozy, and an amazing Sri Lankan breakfast.
In the afternoon, we went to Nine Arches Bridge. It was a Sunday, a Sri Lankan holiday, so it was *packed*—mostly locals and very few white tourists! Even though it was crowded, it was cool because it was all Sri Lankans. We waited an hour for the train. It’s worth seeing, but honestly, I didn’t think it was that amazing.
Then we headed to the station to check if we needed to book tickets for the train to Haputale—turns out, no.
Monday, December 23rd: Beautiful weather. We hiked Ella Rock—a gorgeous trek. The final stretch is steep but shaded, so it wasn’t as tough as I’d read. The whole hike is stunning from start to finish. We saw the train pass twice (one blue, one red) and lots of women picking tea.
After that, we did Little Adam’s Peak. It’s not hard, but it was *packed* with tourists—meh. Luckily, at the top, you can walk a bit farther (down one side and back up) to get some space to yourself.
What I *didn’t* like was the commercial vibe at the big café/restaurant with a pool at the entrance of Little Adam’s Peak. Loud music, all that money being made right next to little souvenir stands run by Sri Lankans or tea-picking women. Felt off.
Ended the day buying souvenirs at one of the few shops we found during the trip.
Tuesday, December 24th: Beautiful weather. Took the train to Haputale. We got to the station 30 minutes before the 9:30 AM train. We could’ve taken 2nd or 3rd class—I went with 2nd (160 LKR per person).
It was crowded, but we managed to get seats—first 2, then 3. Only a 1-hour ride, but I *loved* it—windows and doors open the whole time.
Arrived in Haputale around 11 AM, and the mist was already rolling in.
We walked to our guesthouse, The Mist Holiday Bungalow. Simple but clean, with a great view of the tea plantations. The owner’s wife is Vietnamese and used to work for French tour operators, so her French is still pretty good—helpful for us since our English is terrible. They booked us a tuk-tuk for 4:45 AM the next day (2,000 LKR) to Lipton’s Seat.
Spent the afternoon wandering around Haputale. Not much charm, but there’s a nice fruit and veggie market and a short walk through the tea plantations.
Wednesday, December 25th: Beautiful weather. The tuk-tuk was on time to take us to Lipton’s Seat. We were the first ones there—the sky was just starting to turn pink. In the end, only about ten of us watched the sunrise. The guesthouse had packed us breakfast, and we walked back down (half on the road, half through the plantations). Didn’t see any tea picking since it was Christmas, but the walk was still incredible. We took detours through villages full of kids.
After that, we visited the tea factory. The tour was really interesting, and we took the bus back down to Haputale. Such a great moment—whole families were heading to mass, dressed up and made up. All so beautiful.
At noon, we left for Udawalawe National Park. Taxi for 14,000 LKR. Stayed at River Inn Safari Cottage. *Warning*: It’s the same place as Eagle Safari Cottage. I don’t recommend it. We’d always stayed with families before, but here it was just staff—totally different vibe. The pool was nice but not very clean (water was murky). The bungalow was big and fine, but it was brand new—so new the asphalt floor wasn’t fully dry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we had to eat on-site. Couldn’t leave a review on Booking because they never confirmed we’d stayed, and they canceled our reservation the next day.
Thursday, December 26th: Beautiful weather. I’d booked a safari through the hotel for 5:30–10 AM for 54 USD. Honestly, yes, there are a lot of jeeps, but it was great. The kids loved it—we saw everything there was to see.
Left by taxi at 11:30 AM for Welligama (12,000 LKR).
We didn’t stay in Welligama city but at Coconut Beach, between Welligama and Midigama. *Total crush* on the guesthouse: Sky Mountain Café with View. Such a lovely family. The mom makes amazing meals at reasonable prices. The view from the hill over the sea is unreal.
Spent the afternoon walking along the beach.
Friday, December 27th: Beautiful weather. My kids are surfers. Unfortunately, there weren’t any boards their size to rent at Coconut, so we took a tuk-tuk to Welligama Bay (1,000 LKR). They surfed from 8 AM to 5 PM—rental was 5,000 LKR for the day. Meanwhile, we walked the beach and swam. Water was 29°C.
Saturday, December 28th: Beautiful weather, rain from 4 PM until midnight. Same surf day. They were so well-behaved the whole trip, so this was their reward.
Sunday, December 29th: Beautiful weather. Beach day at Coconut. *Warning*: It’s a reef break. For surfers, there are three spots (Coconut Left, Middle, and Right). The boys bodysurfed (with fins) all morning, and at 1 PM, we took the bus to Hikkaduwa.
Stayed at Hotel Universal Beach. Nothing special—right on the water, but the rooms were dark even though they were clean. The manager was super nice, but the rest was meh, and breakfast was mediocre compared to what we’d had before (2 eggs and 3 slices of toast). Plus, it was late—8 AM.
First impression of Hikkaduwa wasn’t great—way too many Russians for our taste.
Monday, December 30th: Beautiful weather. Spent the whole day exploring. Turtle Beach, then the other side of the beach (toward Galle) near the fishing port. The beach there is much wider, with scattered hotels and super quiet. It’s beautiful—I should’ve booked somewhere in that area. Ended up having a great day away from the crowds.
Tuesday, December 31st: Overcast, then beautiful, rain at 4 PM. Had to end the year (and the trip) with some surf. Rented boards for the kids (3,000 LKR per board for the day). Bad luck—the waves were on a reef break but small. Not great for them, but no big deal. They still got out of the water by 2 PM. Walked the beach (which is gorgeous), had a juice, and went for a swim. Then back to surfing in the rain at 4 PM.
Wednesday, January 1st: Left by taxi at 5 AM (18,000 LKR). Flight at 10 AM. Arrived in Madrid at 8 PM.
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
We did the Langtang trek (hike) from September 10th to 17th, with the first and last days being the trip from Kathmandu and back—so 6 days of actual walking. It’s a fairly well-known trek but certainly not as famous or crowded as those in the Annapurna or Everest regions, which is why we chose it.
In theory, it’s mandatory to have a guide for this trek. In reality, it seems there are ways to bypass the regulations: we met at least two people hiking without a guide—a South Korean, a New Zealander, and possibly also a couple of English women and an American couple, though we’re not sure if they had a guide.
The agency we booked with had told us it was an affordable trek for relatively older people in good shape—which is our case (I’m 72 myself). I have to say upfront that we found it quite challenging, maybe because we didn’t have good weather—it was the end of the monsoon season. To be clear, no matter your fitness level, I’d say doing this trek in the middle of the monsoon season would be suicidal.
Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi
On Monday, September 8th, there had been violent protests in Kathmandu against the government, which had, among other things, blocked access to social media and been accused of nepotism and corruption. There were 19 deaths. The situation was very tense on the day of our departure, Wednesday the 10th. The agency warned us that public transport was very unreliable. So, we decided to take a jeep, at an additional cost of $100 ($160 minus what was already budgeted for the bus).
We left a little before 7 a.m. and it took us a good hour just to reach the outskirts of Kathmandu. Along the way, we saw several houses and vehicles set on fire by protesters.
The road to Syapru Besi is only 120 km, but it’s frankly awful. It’s always narrow, winds through endless mountains, and the shoulders range from bad to confusing to nonexistent. Several sections are just dirt tracks. We didn’t regret opting for the jeep, as we could stop several times at our convenience—if only to let Y (my Thai partner) throw up everything she had. She’d taken her usual motion sickness medication, but the constant turns, accelerations, and braking eventually made her terribly carsick.
In Nuwakot, we stopped for breakfast at a nice little restaurant, Jimbu. It was around 8:30 a.m., and we’d barely covered 60 km. The restaurant has a lovely garden overlooking the Trishuli Ganga, the river flowing down from Syapru Besi. First photo: the river in the bottom right corner, mist and clouds over the mountain on the other side.
An hour later, my second photo: the hills along the Trishuli Ganga. You can see the different crops—lush green rice paddies in the lower right and corn, already yellowed and likely harvested, in the foreground on the left. And of course, the mist and clouds through which you can glimpse the mountain on the other side of the river.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.
Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.
Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.
I hesitated about writing this travel journal...
This summer, we only did the classics (the 3 northern parks and Zanzibar) and let a local agency take care of everything from start to finish.
No craziness, no risks, no sleeping under the stars, no self-drive, no venturing off the beaten path, no incidents, and not even any delays in the pre-planned itinerary...
But don’t think we were disappointed!
The whole family (there were 6 of us) came back with smiles and memories of great moments spent together.
So, if you're looking for a "classic" way to discover Tanzania, this is the place to be.
Our 2-week itinerary:
- Arusha (1 night upon arrival)
- Tarangire (1 night)
- Ngorongoro (2 nights in Karatu then Irmisigiyo)
- Serengeti (3 nights in Robanda, Togoro Plains, and Seronera)
- Zanzibar Stone Town (1 night)
- Zanzibar Matemwe (3 nights)
- Zanzibar Jambiani (3 nights)
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
It’s an ancient city that breathes, a living spring.
Here, no kitschy signs like “I miss you in Fengyu,” nor mass-produced fake antiques.
The century-old houses still bear the marks of wind and rain; in the morning, you hear roosters crowing, and at dusk, smoke gently rises from the kitchens.
This city doesn’t try to please anyone—like the spring water flowing through it, it simply keeps living at its own pace.
Located in Eryuan County, in the Dali Prefecture of Yunnan, the ancient town of Fengyu is a nationally designated historical and cultural city. It’s nicknamed the “land of scholars and ink”—during the Qing Dynasty, the Fengxiang Academy produced four *jinshi* and eleven *juren* in the imperial examinations. The Bai families made studying and farming a true legacy. Even on market days, you’ll find stalls of calligraphy and paintings, while lintels and screen walls are covered with family mottos.
Fengyu was also an important stop on the ancient Tea Horse Road. It preserves the second-largest Bai architectural complex in China, just after Xizhou. The famous traveler Xu Xiake spent seven days here and compared it to the “peach blossom paradise.”
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
Let’s start with the shotengai...
Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that pop up in city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.
It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the vintage vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to nearby Senso-ji Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area).
In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are like real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)
In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:
And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:
The latest travel journal about Turkmenistan dates back to 2019. Here’s a quick update on this vast desert country, which is now a bit easier to visit than before.
This is my first travel journal. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. The country is slowly opening up, but it’s still possible to visit sites where you’ll be completely alone. In five days, I saw two Hongkongers, a few Germans, and a Chilean at the crater, ten Chinese people in a capital bazaar, and that’s it!
It’s possible to visit Turkmenistan from Uzbekistan. The easiest and most economical way is to take a taxi to the border from Bukhara. The trip takes a little over an hour.
Crossing the border takes quite a while because many Turkmen bring back items bought in Uzbekistan to resell in Turkmenistan. For example, diapers, baby products, or beauty products.
It took me over 2.5 hours to cross the border. To visit Turkmenistan, it’s mandatory to have a guide and go through a travel agency. British agencies often offer three-, five-, or seven-day trips for over 1,500 or 2,000 €.
But if your budget is more limited, you can contact a few Turkmen agencies directly by email, and they’ll make you an offer between 700 and 1,300 € for three to seven days. I took a five-day trip from Turkmenabat in the northeast of the country to Dashoguz in the north. The goal was to visit the main UNESCO-listed sites, including Merv, and archaeological sites like Nisa or Gonur Tepe.
Your guide will also be your driver. They’ll pick you up at the border. The formalities are very long because customs officers have to stamp multiple documents, and obtaining the visa you previously requested from your travel agency requires several checks. But the process goes relatively smoothly, even if each step takes a while.
Once on the other side, the first surprise is the brand-new highway all the way to Turkmenabat. A very long line of trucks stretches for several kilometers on the Turkmen side to cross the border into Uzbekistan. According to my guide, Turkmen trucks transport gas and cotton (though not this season, since the harvest is in September), but they mainly fill up their tanks because fuel is much cheaper in Turkmenistan. A full tank for a car costs about 3 €, which is unbeatable.
From the Farap border post, the goal is to reach the city of Mary, which is home to the UNESCO-listed site of Merv in its suburbs, about thirty kilometers away. This city is known as a foundation by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC under the name Alexandria of Margiana. Several fortresses are visible.
After more than three hours on the road, we have lunch at a Turkish restaurant called Aladdin. Several quotes from the president are visible along the highway, but the road is in good condition, and we move along easily. This will be by far the best road in the country—things will get much worse later.
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
It often happens that we're asked what to visit in Belgium.
And the answers usually point to Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp, and Brussels—and rightly so, as these cities are well worth visiting ;).
However, Belgium, though small, isn’t just limited to these four cities.
I live in one of them (Brussels), enjoy spending time in the other three, but I’d like to highlight some lesser-known spots that could add to the trip for those who want to see a bit more or something different.
Between trips, I like exploring one or two corners of the country where I live.
Hence the idea for a travel journal of walks.
Most of the places I’ll talk about can be visited as a day trip from Brussels, whether by public transport or car.
In chronological order of the topics covered:
- The Gileppe Dam (Liège province) - message 2, page 1
- The Domaine de La Hulpe (Walloon Brabant) - message 3, page 1
- Mechelen (Antwerp province) - message 4, page 1
- The coast - message 5, page 1
- The Westhoek, from De Panne - message 6, page 1
- The Zwin, from Knokke - message 7, page 1
- Lier (between Mechelen and Antwerp) - message 8, page 1
- Mons (Hainaut) - message 9, page 1
- The Florenville region - message 12, page 1
- The East Cantons - message 13, page 1
- Dinant - message 18, page 1
- The Japanese garden in Hasselt - message 24, page 2
- Leuven - message 29, page 2
- Louvain-la-Neuve - message 32, page 2
- Ostend - message 42 (page 3) and message 166 (page 9)
- The floralies of Groot-Bijgaarden - message 43, page 3
- Halle Forest - message 44, page 3
- Pralines - message 54, page 3
- Charleroi - message 68, page 4
- Namur - message 92, page 5
- Le Bois du Cazier (Marcinelle) - message 95, page 5
- Couques and gosettes - message 96, page 5
- Liège - message 99, page 5
- Tournai - message 115, page 6
- Oudenaarde - message 121, page 7
- Meise Botanical Garden - message 124, page 7
- Tongeren - message 125, page 7
- Beersel Castle (Flemish Brabant) - message 126, page 7
- Brussels in lockdown (messages 150 and 154, page 8)
- Notre-Dame à la Rose Hospital in Lessines (messages 161 and 162, page 9)
- Westende (message 167, page 9)
I’ll keep updating this list as the journal progresses...
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rental options kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything suddenly fell into place—I told myself, it’s time!
The preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not the south?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or go with the flow?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela about this destination (the guide has been updated since).
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You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(Steak for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
You’ll find here a post with some practical information.
And here, the version of the travel journal without comments.
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As a supplement, the route track.
Not necessarily ultra-accurate since Google has serious gaps for this destination...
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
A little sneak peek?
