NAMASTE NEPAL! PRACTICAL INFO AND EXPERIENCE FEEDBACK

Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025

· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.

* * *

I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.

I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.

Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".

Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!

So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:

· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani

It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.

On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.

We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.

We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.

We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.

We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.

In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.

On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.

We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.

The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.

We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!

We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:

· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.

Normally, it’s all downhill…

April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.

We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.

A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!

Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…

Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…

This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.

Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.

April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.

We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.

We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.

A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.

We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…

We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.

April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.

No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.

Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.

We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.

At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!

After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.

Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.

From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.

Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.

April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…

The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.

The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.

Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.

Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.

Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.

First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR

April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.

For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.

This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.

On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.

At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.

We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.

Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.

There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!

* * *

In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.

The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.

Namaste everyone,

We went to Nepal last October and literally fell in love with this country (like so many others, it seems). During our trek, we had the chance to meet and travel with an incredible independent local guide, Apsara Luitel. She told us about a unique project she’s organizing starting mid-May, and we wanted to share it in case it interests anyone. We mentioned it on another travel forum, but just in case, we’re posting it here too to reach as many people as possible.

Apsara, who knows the Api mountain valley (a name as joyful as it is intriguing!) in Nepal’s Far West (on the border between India and Tibet, at the edge of the world) perfectly, is offering an off-the-beaten-path trek for a group of 3 to 8 people max. The program? An authentic and preserved itinerary combining homestays and small mountain lodges, all the way to the Api base camp. Once at base camp, locals will guide us to secret spots only they know, where we’ll harvest yarsagumba (those famous caterpillar-fungi, rare and prized for their medicinal properties in traditional Chinese medicine—they were going for $20,000 per kilo last year!).

Mid-May is the ideal time to discover this almost unexplored region and take part in harvesting these natural treasures. This kind of adventure, led by an inspiring young woman like Apsara, is rare, and we think it could appeal to Nepal lovers and those who enjoy authentic treks far from the usual tourist routes.

No matter how many participants there are (between 3 and 8), there will always be two guides: Apsara, who speaks English (and is learning French!), and a French-speaking guide. The dates are flexible around May 15th, depending on the availability of those who’d like to take on the adventure.

Hi everyone.

The tickets for SRI LANKA are booked—arriving in COLOMBO on 12/21 and returning from the same place on 01/17. I’ve read here and there that it’ll be high season, but we don’t have a choice, so we’ll make do...

My first question is obviously about the itinerary: Most of the ones I’ve seen go clockwise, and I’m wondering if I should do it the other way: - To avoid the cultural triangle between Christmas and New Year’s - To start with a bit of rest (we’re really wiped out) Does that make sense?

My second question is about the time allocated to each stop, which you’ll find below. Is it balanced? Too much here and not enough there?

My third question will be about Jaffna: yes or no? How long is the trip from Anuradhapura? Where can I fit in the 3 days needed?



Thanks for your replies. A few details: ultra-independent travelers, using public transport, hikers, minimum 2 nights per accommodation. First time in Sri Lanka! !

Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Bangladesh for tourism during All Saints' Day 25. The government website is pretty discouraging! I’d love to hear from people living there or who’ve been recently before I buy my tickets. How’s the security level and feasibility of a circuit (boat, train, bus around the country)? We’re used to basic conditions :) Thanks in advance for your tips! Cécile

Hi there,

I’ve got a few questions about my upcoming 3.5-week trip to Tamil Nadu and Kerala (January 2025).

On the itinerary, we’re supposed to spend 3 or 4 days in Thanjavur (Tanjore). I thought the location would let us explore the surrounding area, but I’m realizing everything I want to see won’t fit into the schedule! I’d planned: 1 day to arrive from Pondicherry 1 day to go to Darasuram 1 day to go to Tiruchirappalli 1 day to head to Madurai with a stop in Chettinad Basically, we won’t see anything of Thanjavur itself! Should I skip one of the destinations?

In Kerala, after 3 days in Munnar, I’ve planned to spend a few days in Munroe Island since I didn’t get great feedback about Alleppey. I wanted to "wander" through the backwaters. Has anyone been there?

Finally, we’re ending the trip in Cherai. After booking, I realized the beaches seemed unusable (trash, rough sea...) and I’m pretty frustrated about not being able to swim. Unless there’s a better spot nearby?

Thanks for your input!

Hi fellow travelers! I arrive in New Delhi on January 5th, and this is the third time I’ve come across what turns out to be a scam (after some research outside of booking.com): dirty places, fake reviews, etc. So I’m starting to distrust booking.com because it really doesn’t seem like a reliable site (at least when it comes to booking hotels in New Delhi).

If you have a good place to stay (max 1500 € per night, and I don’t want a dorm) in New Delhi, I’d love to hear about it! :)

Looking forward to your replies!

Hi there, I’ve been in Nepal for a week now, still in the Kathmandu Valley, after two months in India. I’m discovering the haze problem in the valleys (Kathmandu, Pokhara), which I hadn’t anticipated at all. It’s really frustrating not to see any peaks. I was planning to go to Jomsom and also do the Poonhill Trek from Pokhara, but I’m not even sure if it’ll be clear there. Without going to high altitude or doing a long trek, is there a place where I might have a chance of seeing the mountain panoramas? Thanks for your help!

Hi there,

We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.

After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.

Thanks in advance.

Hi there. We’re spending a month in Sri Lanka in March, and we’ll have one week left after leaving Polonnaruwa. We’re torn between spending it in the Jaffna region or on the east coast between Batticaloa and Trincomalee. We’re divers, so the east coast appeals to us for snorkeling, beaches, and lagoons—but it seems like late March might not be the best time for that coast. What do you think? As for Jaffna, the culture of the region, its more authentic feel since it’s less touristy, and the offshore islands all appeal to us too—but it seems far from the rest of the country and harder to access. We have to choose because we won’t be able to visit both sides, and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Thanks, Marie

Hi there, We’re heading to Gujarat at the end of January for a month, traveling by local transport, and I’m currently trying to figure out how to get from PATAN to BHUJ by train or bus. On the IRTC website, I only found overnight trains, which doesn’t work for us. Do you know if there are any daytime buses leaving from Patan or Palanpur? We’re also wondering if there’s a ferry service between Mandvi and Okha. Thanks for your help! Alod

Hello my fellow globetrotters, could anyone tell me how to find the French colonial cemetery in Pondicherry? It seems tricky to locate.

Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.

Cheers, Régine

Hi there, my husband and I are planning to visit the maharajas' palaces in Rajasthan in 2026. We're looking for a fairly long tour (10 days or more). Do you have any tips on which palaces to visit, cities and places to discover, the best tour operators, and the best time to go? Thanks in advance for your advice and recommendations!

Hi everyone, I’m thinking of visiting Sri Lanka at the end of February 2025, but I’m worried about the economic situation (shortages of food, electricity, internet, fuel, etc.) as well as the political and social climate (strikes, protests, etc.). Has anyone here been there recently and can describe what it’s like?

Is the current situation stable enough to travel in this beautiful country without any issues? Thanks for your replies.

Hello there! Any hotel or guesthouse you’d recommend in Pondicherry? Arriving on October 5th for up to 15 days.

Hi there, We just got back from a 2-week trip to Sri Lanka as a couple, and while planning the trip, we found plenty of info on the itinerary, places to see, and transportation, but much fewer clear reports on the actual budget to expect once there. Yet, that was an important point for us because we like to plan ahead a little before traveling. So, we took the time to break down our complete budget after the trip. In our case, we spent around **930 € per person** for 2 weeks, being careful without depriving ourselves, mixing guesthouses, more comfortable hotels, quite a few activities, and even a private driver for part of the stay. What we found interesting when crunching the numbers is that in Sri Lanka, it’s not necessarily meals or short trips that blow the budget, but rather flights, certain accommodations, cultural activities, and all those little expenses we sometimes forget, like tips. If this can help other travelers get a better idea, we’ve put everything together on our blog with our experience, a detailed breakdown of expenses, and practical info on money while there, withdrawals, and tipping: https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.com/budget-sri-lanka-pour-un-voyage-de-2-semaines/

Happy travels and enjoy your adventure! !

Hi there! Next October, I’m planning a family trip to Kerala (4 adults and 2 kids) and I’m looking for a car with a driver for this 2-week journey.

Hi there,

I’m thinking of heading to Tamil Nadu and Karnataka in early 2026.

Two places I’m curious about: Tiruvannamalai (Tamil Nadu) and Kollegal (Karnataka).

For Tiruvannamalai, I’ve already found quite a bit of info on this forum, but the most recent posts are from 2018. Has anyone been there more recently? My plan is to stay for about a week, book a guesthouse, visit the big Shiva temple, Ramana Maharshi’s ashram, and the caves in the mountain. Any other spots in this town you’d recommend? Would you happen to know a nice guesthouse (preferably around 1500 rupees, doesn’t need to be near the ashram)?

As for Kollegal, I’m not finding much info. And I’m stuck on this permit issue for staying in the town. Can anyone fill me in?

Thanks for your help!

Hi everyone, Kerala experts (especially Marien!) In January, I’m planning another trip to Kerala. We’ll arrive in Kochi and travel up the coast by train to Gokarna. So I’m reaching out to ask if it’s worth stopping for a few days in any of the following spots (not all, of course—just one or two that are really worth it...). From what I’ve seen, few Western tourists stop along this coast, given how little info there is about it: Mahe, Thalassery, Taliparamba, Nileshwar, Bekal, Kasaragod I’m not mentioning Kannur because we’ve already been there, specifically Thottada Beach, and we’re familiar with the southern destinations (Trivandrum, Kovalam, etc.). Thanks for your replies! Anne

Hi everyone, I’ll be in Nepal in January and would like to go to Janakpur, either from Sauraha or Kathmandu. Are there frequent buses during the day from these two places? Is it also possible to get an estimate of how long the trips take—I know it depends heavily on road conditions. Also, I’m unsure how many days to dedicate to exploring this city, which apparently has quite a few sights to see. Thanks in advance for your tips. Christiane

Hi everyone, I’m heading to Assam and I’d like to know what type of electrical adapter I need—is it M or D, or both? Thanks

I'm looking for a small, not-too-touristy restaurant in Fort Kochi. Do you know one not too far from Jacob Road? Thanks

Hi there, it's me again with more questions about Kerala!

I'm thinking of making the trip from Mysore to Cochin by private car (with a driver, of course) in one day. I'd love to get an idea of the price and travel time (and if you know a reliable agency).

Alternatively, maybe it's more interesting to do this trip by bus? I'm worried it might take much longer than with a private car. This will be my first trip to South India, and I'm not really sure about travel times or how easy it is to get around by local buses or trains. Thanks!

Marsyork

Hello everyone, We’re a couple heading off in mid-October for 7 weeks to explore Rajasthan independently, with an extension to Varanasi. We’re growing more skeptical about Booking.com reviews and would rather turn to fellow travelers for up-to-date recommendations on accommodations along our route. We’re looking for clean places—not necessarily luxurious—a good location preferably, and if there’s a special charm or character, even better. Budget-wise, up to 50 €, or more if needed. We’ve already gathered a few addresses from Solene and Aleph’s travel journals. Here are our stops—we’ve already got a place for the starred cities but are still open to suggestions: Delhi Airport* Alwar Bharatpur* Mathura Agra* Dholpur Karauli Dausa* Jaipur* Bundi* Kota Udaipur* Pushkar Jodhpur Barmer Jaisalmer Phalodi Bikaner Nawalgarh* Varanasi Central Delhi Thanks for sharing your tips and favorites!

Hello, I’m looking for people who’ve been very seriously ill or had major surgery in India (especially in Kerala). Thanks for sharing your experience.

For once, I'm sharing my experience after benefiting from other travelers' tips to take the plunge and rent a car (without a driver).

First, don’t hesitate! (Unless you just got your license the day before.) The roads are good—even very good in the north (the situation seems to have improved a lot). Driving is "Italian-style"—you can fit 3 or even 4 cars on a two-lane road. Sri Lankans aren’t suicidal (I wouldn’t have done it in India, though...). No issues with police checkpoints: we were never stopped in 25 days (unlike Sri Lankans...). These days, with Google and connectivity, you can’t get lost. Plan short trips (for us, it was between 2 and 4 hours with Google Maps estimates). Price: for a basic car, between 23 and 25 € per day, and gas isn’t expensive. I didn’t rent a car in Colombo (we used the PickMe app for tuk-tuks or car transfers with luggage). I also left the car parked in Kandy—it was a bit more intense there with narrow hillside streets and motorbikes/tuk-tuks driving a little wild. Big advantage: automatic transmission.

For me, aside from the first intersection, no stress—if you’re tired or not feeling it, you can drive as slowly as you want (unlike in France). I also drove and overtook like the Sri Lankans naturally.

Basic tips (but if you’re a driver, they’re obvious): - The bus is the boss: you’ve got to yield. - Unlike Sri Lankans, avoid overtaking without visibility. - Stay aware of your surroundings: cows, dogs, monitor lizards, pedestrians... so if there’s something, slow down!

I caught myself driving up to 90 km/h without realizing it but then slowed down (speed limits: 70 on rural roads, 100 on highways).

Of course, you’ll need an international driver’s permit or a temporary Sri Lankan license (I had both, but no one asked for them).

Renting a tuk-tuk was trendy among young travelers (I don’t get the appeal for a long trip—maybe 2 or 3 days since they’re slow, not that economical, more dangerous, and you can’t leave your stuff inside. Plus, the passenger sits behind the driver, and we had temps up to 37°C).

For a car, it’s great because it makes you independent: schedules, routes, supermarkets, restaurants...

Hope my feedback helps! !

Hi there,

I’m heading to Kerala in December. I’ve been searching without luck for air-conditioned buses, minivans—basically anything that’s not a bus without AC or windows, since my route from Cochin to Munnar is gonna be a long one and I don’t wanna struggle.

I checked around, and it’s crazy—you can’t find the name of a single private company, just overpriced transfers!

From what I can tell, it seems like there’s nothing but local buses… yet I went to Sri Lanka two years ago and there were plenty of options.

Thanks in advance for any tips! Caroline

Hello and happy travels for 2025! Reading through the discussions, I’m wondering what to pick between Bikaner and Jaisalmer for spending a few days in the desert without running into too many tour groups. Should I skip Jaisalmer? Rent a motorcycle and go solo? I’d love to hear any tips. Thanks

Hi there, I’m heading to Rajasthan in January and planning to go from Jodhpur to Udaipur, hiring a driver for this leg. Is it possible to do this route in one day, including a (quick?!) visit to Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh? Do you think it’s doable? Thanks in advance for your feedback! 😉

hi there, what a joy this forum is back up and running! so happy to be the first Sri Lanka post. it’s helped me plan so many real trips—unlike other sites that are mostly commercial, pushing drivers, and such.

new adventure in Sri Lanka! here’s our itinerary from November 6th to 22nd, 2024.

Our plan: 3 days in Habarana (Mineriya or Kaudulla, Polonnaruwa, Dambulla, Sigiriya) 3 days in Kandy (including two days at the Elephant Freedom Project) 1 day on the train from Kandy to Haputale (Lipton’s Seat) 2 days in Ella 1 day in Uda Walawe 1 flexible day to adjust as needed 2 days in Tangalle or nearby (which beaches are the quietest?) 1 day in Galle 1 day in Colombo

thank you in advance for any tips or advice you can share—we’re so excited to explore this amazing country!

looking forward to hearing from you, we’ll be sure to share our experience when we’re back.

Monique

Hello, we’re planning a trip to Sri Lanka in April 2025. We’re a family of four adults, and we love getting off the beaten path while still enjoying local life and, of course, visiting the main tourist sites (after all, you can’t visit a country without appreciating its highlights!). We’re looking for a reputable travel agency for a private trip with a driver and a guide—whether they speak French or not. Yes, it’s possible! We were lucky enough to have this experience on our last two trips to India and Laos. It was absolutely wonderful, insightful, and enriching thanks to the local visits. Anyway, if anyone has done a similar road trip, we’d love to follow in your footsteps. Thanks for all your tips! NorGra