This was my first time returning to Japan since the COVID lockdown. My trips are always intense. We're not here to relax. We're here to explore, mingle with locals, be welcomed into associations and museums, and discover things most people wouldn’t even suspect exist on the other side of the world.

Hi there! This will be my first time traveling to Japan, in January 2027 for 3 weeks. I’m looking for a travel companion to join me. I might also be going for 2 weeks in March-April 2026.

Hi everyone, I first traveled solo to Japan in 2019, exploring the Kyushu region (28 days), and I’m planning to return with my daughter (she’s an adult and it’ll be her first time in Asia) from April 25 to May 9. I’m reaching out on this forum to ask for route ideas—this time north of Tokyo, but without heading to the Sapporo island (I’m saving that for a future trip). I’d love to take advantage of the cherry blossom season and its festivities. I’m looking to create a route that’s a little off the beaten path while staying within 5-6 hours by train from Tokyo to avoid spending too much time on transfers. Thanks in advance for sharing your suggestions and experiences! Michael

I'm planning a 19-day itinerary in Japan this summer. For a first trip, Kyoto seems like a must. For the rest, I'm torn between: - Matsumoto, Takayama, Kanazawa for 5 to 6 days - Kyoto 4 days - Nara 2 days - Koyasan 1 day - Hakone/Mount Fuji 2 to 3 days - Tokyo 3 days

Or dedicating the first 6 days to Kyushu.

Maybe there’s less traditional Japan in Kyushu compared to the Japanese Alps? Maybe Kyushu is less crowded? Thanks for your thoughts!

Good evening,

After my first trip to the Land of the Rising Sun with a very classic itinerary (Osaka / Tokyo) in April 2024, I’m revisiting my original idea: a cruise that would let me explore other parts of the country. The options are pretty limited since I’m restricted to school holidays. After some quick research on cruise sales sites, it seems Princess Cruises might be the best fit (dates + itinerary). I’ve only sailed with Costa before, so I have a few questions before deciding whether to go ahead with this idea: - Is Princess really upscale? Is there a dress code? - My English is pretty basic—will that be an issue? - For a cruise in Asia, what kind of food is served on board: the same as on other cruises worldwide, or specifically Asian? - What’s the average age of passengers? - Any other specifics I should know?

Thanks so much for your answers.

Hi there,

We’ll be in Tokyo for two full days (not counting the arrival and departure days), while waiting to board a cruise in Japan.

We’ll be staying right next to the port of Yokohama. Are there any agencies offering guided tours of the city? Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Hi, I’ve always been used to exchanging my money (€) in town no matter the country (with a "mini exchange" at the airport if needed). I can’t find any recent posts on this topic from the last few years. Does anyone have any insights on this? Intrinsic benefits, best places to exchange, etc.? I arrive at Tokyo Haneda on a Friday around 12:30 PM, and my first night is very close to Shinjuku. Thanks.

hi everyone, and first of all, I wish you all a happy new year and good health!

This coming October or November, we’re planning our first trip to Japan. The only downside is we’ll only have two weeks off.

For this first visit, I’m thinking of sticking to the Kyoto and Osaka area… saving Tokyo for another trip. Do you think that’s a good choice for a first-time visit?

I’ve put together a little itinerary below to get some feedback from those in the know. I’m only counting the days we’re actually there, not travel days.

Day 1: Kyoto Ginkaku-ji – Philosopher’s Path with stops at a few shrines temples Eikan-dō and Nanzen-ji visit to the Samurai Ninja Museum in the late afternoon

Day 2: Kyoto Fushimi Inari (allow 4 hours for the hike through the park) visit to Sanjūsangen-dō temple Shōseien garden participate in a tea ceremony

Day 3: Kyoto Kiyomizu-dera temple stroll through the historic district up to Kennin-ji temple visit Kennin-ji temple Yasaka-jinja shrine and Gion district in the late afternoon return to the hotel via Pontochō Street

Day 4: Kyoto visit Kinkaku-ji and Nijō Castle visit the Imperial Palace gardens end the day in the shopping streets (Shibkyogoku and Teramachi, among others)

Day 5: Kyoto Arashiyama area Togetsukyo Bridge, walk along the river, visit the Bamboo Forest explore the area up to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji temple

Day 6: Kyoto hike from Kibune to Kurama

Day 7: Kyoto day trip to Nara (full day)

Day 8: stroll around Kyoto before heading to Osaka

Day 9: Osaka Katsuo-ji temple, then head to Minoh Falls and hike back via the Minoh Trail end the day in the Osaka Castle area

Day 10: Osaka Himeji Castle and an afternoon in Osaka

Day 11: Osaka Osaka and return to the airport in the late afternoon for the flight home

Do you think this itinerary is doable? Are some days too relaxed or too packed? I was thinking of adding a trip to Lake Biwa and Uji, but in that case, I’d have to cut some things. Are those places worth dropping some of the planned spots? And if so, which ones would you recommend cutting or shortening?

Thanks in advance—I’m all ears for both positive and negative feedback! stephane

Hi there,

My partner is running the Tokyo Marathon on March 1st, 2026. So we’re planning a 3-week trip to Japan to include this event! We’ll likely be traveling from February 21st to March 14th.

Our current idea is to visit: 1) Kyoto 2) Tokyo 3) The Five Lakes region (e.g., Mt. Odake, Mitsutogeyama, Lake Kawaguchi, Lake Sai, Mt. Ryugatake, Myōjinyama...) 4) Kyushu (for example: Mt. Kujū, Mt. Aso, Eboshi-dake, Mt. Karakuni, Kirishima Mountains, Takachihonomine....)

We found a flight that would let us arrive in Osaka and depart from Kutakyushu. We really want to soak up Japanese culture but don’t want to spend all our time just in cities. Museums, exhibits, etc., aren’t really our thing, and we’d like to include some hikes.

1) Do you think this itinerary is realistic for 3 weeks? 2) In Kyushu, we’d like to rent a car—do you think it’d also be a good idea to rent one for the Five Lakes region? 3) I’d love to stay in a temple to take part in monks’ rituals. Any tips on that?

Anyway, this is just a very rough first draft, and before diving in completely, I’d love to get some initial feedback, your thoughts, and your critiques ;) Thanks in advance! :)

Hello everyone, dear community members,

After several trips to Tokyo and the surrounding areas, as well as Osaka Bay, we’re heading to Northern Kyushu for a week in mid-October (we’ll be in China the other week). We’re a couple with two kids, aged 7 and 9. We’ll arrive at Saga Airport and plan to stay there for a few days to explore Arita, Imari, Karatsu, Hirado, and Dazaifu. We’re thinking Saga isn’t too touristy, so it might be a good choice to find accommodation for 3 or 4 days there and immerse ourselves in a typical Japanese city in the evenings with fewer tourists. 1) Is this a good idea?

My second question is: 2) What are the best neighborhoods in Saga where I can find accommodation (preferably an Airbnb) with free parking but still close to the city center, please? 3) Would you recommend Fukuoka instead?

4) Here’s my first draft of the itinerary:

Saga Airport (we leave straight away) → Beppu Onsen (2-hour drive, we stay one night + Mount Yufu) → Kurokawa Onsen (we stay one night + Mount Kuju) → we pass by Mount Aso (just a drive-around and short walk) → then we go to Suizenji Jojuen in Kumamoto (park in a paid parking lot nearby) → return to Saga in the evening, where we stay this time. Stay in Saga for 3 or 4 nights in an Airbnb with convenient parking in the city center, not too far out, and explore the surrounding areas (Imari, Arita, Karatsu, Hirado, Dazaifu...).

Saga to Nagasaki (minimum 2 nights, ideally 3). Then return to Saga. 5) Same question: where to stay in Nagasaki in accommodation where we can park the car for free and be near or easily accessible to the city center? 6) For all these places, what do you recommend doing with the kids?

Thanks so much to everyone!

Hi everyone,

Let me introduce myself—I’m Christophe. I’m taking the plunge and planning my first trip to Japan for late February 2026. There’ll be five of us: my wife and I, and our three daughters, aged 12 and 15. Between the internet, travel agencies, and social media, there’s info coming from all directions, but it’s tough to find clear, objective, and relevant answers. I’d like this first trip to follow a classic route: 4/5 days in Tokyo 4 days in Kyoto (Nara) 2 days in Osaka (maybe Universal Studios) I’ve got a few questions—could you share your thoughts? 1. Is it better to return to Tokyo to catch our flight home, or is flying out directly from Osaka a better option? 2. For accommodation, would you recommend a hotel or an Airbnb? Since there are five of us, I think we’d like a small kitchen and a bit of space. 3. The famous JR Pass: is it worth it, or should we just buy tickets for each trip? I’ve read that the JR Pass has gotten more expensive and isn’t the ideal solution anymore, especially if you’re staying in the same cities for several days. 4. We’d like to have two phones—do you recommend eSIMs or a pocket Wi-Fi?

That’s it—I hope you can help shed some light on this. Thanks! Christophe

hi everyone

I’m planning a trip to Japan from May 11 to 26 with Air China.

I’ll be taking Ouigo from Lyon for both the outbound and return trips to get to Roissy CDG.

For the outbound TGV from Lyon, I’ll arrive at Roissy with plenty of time—at least 6 or 7 hours before my 8:30 PM flight (Paris to Beijing, then Beijing to Tokyo). For the return on May 26, I was wondering what time you’d recommend booking my train to Lyon, given that I’ll land at CDG at 7:30 AM (flight from Tokyo). I was thinking of booking a train leaving at 11:00 AM from the SNCF station at CDG to Lyon Saint-Exupéry—does that seem too tight based on your experience?

This is my first time traveling this far with a layover in Beijing, and I’m not familiar with Roissy CDG Airport at all.

Thanks for your advice!

Hi! We’re traveling as a couple for 3 weeks in Japan in November. We’d love to visit Tokyo, Kyoto, Hiroshima, and Miyajima Island. Would anyone have a great itinerary to share? Thanks so much!

Karine First trip

Hello,

I’m new to the forum (I live in Paris), though I’ve used it before during my past trips, a long time ago when I was young :). I’m now the venerable age of 49.

As mentioned in the title, I’m looking for some great accommodation tips for myself and my two daughters, aged 10 and 12, that you may have recently tried during your travels in Japan.

Ideally, since I haven’t been back to Japan since 2008, I’d love to get some reliable recommendations for hotels or ryokan where you’ve stayed.

When I visited Japan several times in 2007 and 2008, I didn’t have kids, so I wasn’t as concerned about comfort. Even though my daughters are used to traveling with me, I’d still like to use the Japan Rail Pass as I did before—except back then, I didn’t book in advance. With kids, I’d prefer to plan ahead.

So if you have any great recommendations to share for these cities (priority), but I’m also interested in Nara, Matsuyama, Fukuoka/Hakata, and Hiroshima.

All your suggestions based on your past experiences will be much appreciated here.

I’d also be happy to chat with you about the differences between Japan nearly 20 years ago, when I first visited, and today. Have many things changed or evolved?

Thanks so much for your help.

Arnaud

We're a family of five: one dad, one mom, and three kids aged 10, 15, and 18.

Before diving into each stop in more detail, here are a few general thoughts:

We wanted to sample a bit of everything Japan has to offer in terms of landscapes, accommodation, and transport. We were after walks, temples, restaurants, shopping, and some downtime—but no "all-inclusive experiences" or museums for this first visit.

Three medium-sized (60x42x25) canvas suitcases, plus a duffel bag and a few small backpacks. 23 kg in the hold on the way out, 60 kg on the way back. 36 kg of shopping, without even trying. I think this is the maximum suitcase size if you don’t want to stress on the Shinkansen: they fit easily in the overhead racks.

Round-trip with Cathay Pacific, layover in Hong Kong: no need to collect luggage in Hong Kong—we checked it in at departure and picked it up in Tokyo, and the same on the way back (checked in Osaka, picked up at our final destination). This let us explore Hong Kong without worrying about our bags. Food and entertainment were pretty good—meals included a little Häagen-Dazs on each flight, and the entertainment had way more Asian cinema than you’d find on a Western airline, which was a nice way to see how much weight Western culture carries in Asia.

Initial itinerary: Tokyo (3 nights) Hakone (2 nights) Takayama (1 night) Kanazawa (2 nights) Kyoto (4 nights) Osaka (1 night) Ishigaki (3 nights)

The original plan was to fly directly from Ishigaki to Hong Kong, but due to Typhoon Dolphin, we had to cancel the Ishigaki leg. Cathay didn’t bat an eye about swapping the Ishigaki-HK flight for an Osaka-HK one, even though it was twice as long. We were a bit too attached to the idea of ending the trip with some beach time and replaced Ishigaki with Shirahama. It was a mistake—we should’ve visited Hiroshima or spent a little more time in Tokyo instead.

It’s an understatement to say that Japan is a world apart. All around me, people exclaim: "How lucky you are to be able to go there! I’ve always dreamed of visiting, of finding myself in that culture blending tradition and technology!" Yes, they’re right. Until the moment their dreams become reality and things appear as they truly are, without the filter of fantasized preconceptions. Because in the collective unconscious, Japan indeed seems like a civilization—if not neutral—at least stripped of any social maturation. As if it had emerged all at once from its canonical ages, offering only the best of its traditions, and as if those traditions were undoubtedly the foundation of its extraordinary discipline. Yet, as always, the truth is far more complex. Modern Japan is likely shaped by its millennia-old traditions. But that Japan is also the result of its own uncertainties and contradictions. I’ve always been wary. I’ve never understood why the cleaning women on the platform bow when the train arrives. At some point, too much discipline, too much deference—it makes you smile, it raises questions.

Finally, thanks to F., a dream is coming true! Not the dream of going to Japan—a country I’ve visited more than any other, except for Réunion and the UK—but the dream of completing the fastest round-the-world trip of my career. Indeed, due to the restrictions imposed by the Russians*, the plane flies over the Caucasus and China on the way there; on the return, it gracefully heads toward the Arctic after skirting the Aleutian Islands, Alaska, and Greenland. So, in nearly 26 hours of flight, I complete my 6th round-the-world trip. A round-the-world trip with just one stopover. Or two, if you count our impromptu detour to Okinawa.

(* In response to Western sanctions, Russia closed its airspace to Western airlines on February 28, 2022, except for Air Serbia, Turkish Airlines, Pegasus, and Belavia. This decision adds 2 to 3 hours to flight times and, incidentally, increases operating costs.)

The empire of noise. The empire that dazzles. In Japan, the auditory and visual space is constantly fed. No respite. You have to be strong. Navigating public transport feels like playing the most advanced video game: moving between language barriers and a different organization, the hero tries to ignore the numerous visual and auditory distractions. Mostly auditory, though. Because in Japan, there’s a culture of noise that has undoubtedly inspired our national railways. Everything must be announced. So, here and there, all along the route, we find agents whose sole role is to endlessly repeat safety messages through megaphones more or less suited to the situation. The result is a constant murmur, a kind of tinnitus, a subtle but incessant buzz that fades only at bedtime and returns with a vengeance at first light, when we descend back into the supposedly sterile depths of Osaka’s subway. "To go right, please turn right, kudasaï. When descending the stairs, please mind the steps, kudasaï. To go straight, please take the left corridor, kudasaï." That *kudasaï* ("please" in Japanese), I assure you, has permanently lodged itself in my auditory cells.

Screens are no exception; the brain is constantly stimulated. But paradoxically, passengers massively retreat into their own worlds via their screens. Literally glued to their phones, earbuds firmly in place, people escape into the virtual aisles of a furniture store, a game, a movie... In the train cars, raised voices are rare. The field is clear for announcements and other jingles. Each stop is announced by a little tune unique to each station. Simply incredible.

If we usually judge a country by the welcome its inhabitants offer, in Japan, we’re left wanting. Indeed, the Lost in Translation* spirit doesn’t just apply to verbal exchanges—it applies to everything, especially non-verbal communication. In Japan, me, the slightly North African Corsican, I’m at a loss. I speak loudly, I gesture, in front of a hotel concierge just as lost. Each for our own reasons. Yes, he speaks some English, but we can’t seem to connect. It’s a losing battle trying to find a bit of compassion from a local who’s far from familiar with Western concerns. I try to buy tickets for the World Expo? I run into a systematization as rigid as it is abrupt, which the concierge can’t seem to navigate. While we might still have a shred of common sense, here in Japan, everything is digitized. Soon, no one will be surprised that a QR code becomes essential just to go to the bathroom.

(* Film by Sofia Coppola, released in 2003, which explores isolation, unease, Japanese culture, and language through the experiences of two protagonists.)

In the end, we get that ticket for the Expo. After providing personal information on yet another account created for the occasion, we buy electronic tickets—a QR code, then—to regulate the comings and goings, the souls and aspirations of all these wandering beings scattered across the globe. And it’s probably for the best... Because we’ll be tens of thousands of visitors—100,000 to 150,000 per day—walking the aisles of this enormous improvised amusement park, a kind of delirious superstructure surrounded by the Grand Ring, the largest wooden construction in the world. Inside the park, the pavilions, flagship vessels of their respective countries, compete in ingenuity, proportionate to their GDP, to attract visitors. But you have to wait up to two hours to visit the most popular ones! Fortunately, about a hundred countries can be explored without waiting in shared, more spacious areas. What will I remember from this adventure? The beauty of that wooden structure, despite any environmental or financial considerations—200M € for barely renewable elements; a certain poetry, even magic, in the expression of this event—conversing with Juliette Petit, the splendid representative of Vanuatu, had something indescribable; a close-up experience of Japanese discipline when it came time to return to the subway after that epic evening—thousands upon thousands of people converging at the same time toward a single place without any interruption in the flow.

But my real passion is the countryside. So, I’ll especially remember that brief escape, on the very first day, to the Mino-o waterfall, where the journey itself was already enchanting. Quickly leaving the underground lines, our train speeds through the city’s endless expanse and drops us at the foot of a hill, the abrupt edge of the urban sprawl. The slope was too steep to build anything? We leave behind an impressive hotel, a capitalist eyesore defying the laws of elevation to tackle the climb toward the waterfall. A bucolic walk where the stroller can choose between a paved path or more epic trails. Here and there, stalls, temples, everywhere, a certain serenity. The city’s pulse gives way to a magnificent spectacle magnified by giant sequoias. From the depths of a ravine, we try to glimpse the sky beyond the foliage. Everything is oversized. Here, you can breathe.

***

In reality, Japan has never undertaken any real work of memory. Aside from a few feeble gestures to appease Washington in its choice of Asian partners, one wonders if the Japanese have ever truly grasped the horror they were forced to participate in. While our Judeo-Christian society has more or less assimilated the notions of forgiveness and self-questioning, where does Japanese society stand, juggling a millennia-old Zen philosophy and the unabashed Machiavellianism of an emperor utterly possessed? Is it just me, or does there float in the atmosphere a kind of unease, a malaise, an awkward relationship with reality? For me, bowing to a train as it enters the station is just the result of a poorly directed moral dilemma...

Ah, how distant is the time of sakoku, that closure of the country—both concrete and ideological—that was in vogue for two centuries. Because if no one could enter, no one could leave either! A boon for neighboring countries. But from 1854, following the skirmishes of Commodore Matthew Perry, who demanded Japan’s participation in trade, the country suddenly became aware of the disparities separating it from the West. Bring Japan up to the level of other nations? Industrialization, competition, search for raw materials... Hirohito (1901–1989) emerges on the scene, a bit expansionist and willing to stop at nothing to achieve his goals. Above all, he knew how to use, in his own way, the incredible capacity for self-sacrifice of his people...

We protest, we condemn, we all rally behind an acceptable discourse when it comes to discussing the use of the atomic bomb. Yet, we forget one essential thing: Hiroshima wasn’t enough to make Hirohito yield. While we’re bombarded with anti-fascist elements, as if the sole purpose of school curricula were to prevent us from voting for the National Rally, we completely overlook those events of rare cruelty that took place on the other side of the globe at a time contemporary with Nazi atrocities. Why? Because it was farther away, on the other side of the world? Because we must both condemn the use of nuclear weapons and Nazism? What a dangerous game. Killing civilians is beyond comprehension, everyone agrees on that. But hasn’t Japan ever been guilty of such atrocities? Our empathy is legitimate; it won’t, however, remove from my mind the idea that there was no other solution. Nagasaki is the most telling proof of that.

At least in France, in school textbooks, Hitler will have completely overshadowed the existence of people crueler and more abject than him. Certainly, Adolf was a deeply disturbed man whom events propelled to power. But I’m justified in believing that his approach was probably more humane than that of Joseph Stalin at the height of his art*. And if Hirohito followed the same line as Hitler, in the sense that he represented the superior race, he would apply with conviction what was Stalin’s credo: contempt for his own people when sending them to slaughter, and an even fiercer contempt for the human race when it didn’t have the good fortune to be Japanese. Just look at how China was invaded and by what means millions of Chinese were annihilated, burned, deported, buried alive! Operation Scorched Earth or Three Alls Policy for kill all, burn all, loot all? No comment. Even today, the Japanese are convinced they waged a patriotic war, when clearly, that war served only vague ideological (and certainly economic) interests.

(* "In many ways, Hitler’s National Socialism was far more humane than Communism: it wasn’t unthinkable to speak to the SS or the Gestapo, and dissuading them from sending you to a prison camp wasn’t utopian. To some extent (compared to the Communists), you could still expect a semblance of justice. All those who lived under Hitler and under Communism will tell you: as the front lines shifted, they always managed to end up in Germany, where, though it was a strange place ruled by a madman, life went on. Under Communism, there was no life; totalitarianism was absolute. Probably, Hitler’s conservatism prevented him from fully imitating Bolshevism." Seraphim Rose in The Revolutions of the 19th and 20th Centuries (circa 1970))

In Naha, we visit two strategic sites: the Imperial Navy headquarters and Maeda Escarpment, in Urasoe, better known as Hacksaw Ridge. I love this confrontation with history. In the hand-dug tunnels of the headquarters, we meet Japanese people seeking information. They’re not responsible for this tragedy. Neither are we. I would have liked to tell them that, to hug them, to move on. To finally believe in those peace messages displayed here and there. Yes, it’s curious to read those calls for peace* when no real work of memory** has been undertaken. Two civilizations, two perspectives, a profound misunderstanding. When I analyze the waste of that war—and particularly the waste of those Pacific battles—like Peleliu in autumn 1944 and Okinawa in spring 1945—I can’t bring myself to share in the pathological patriotism that reigns within these walls. There, the room where the last message of Admiral Minoru Ōta was transmitted in Morse, praising the merits of the archipelago’s people. A tangled mix that, yes, is charged with positive emotions but, no, won’t remove from my mind the idea that this people was completely conditioned, completely disconnected from reality. Allying with the Axis powers? Invading the South Pacific? And finding that noble! Everyone sees things through their own lens.

(* Peace Declaration by Denny Tamaki, Governor of Okinawa, June 2020. ** "Recognizing the atrocities committed by one’s country requires a mix of democratic culture and self-confidence that is more the exception than the rule." Dominique Moïsi in Les Échos, April 30, 2015)

Okinawa. 200,000 dead. Stemming from bushido, the way of the warrior, this conditioning reached its peak with the kamikaze philosophy in particular and suicide in general. So, schematically, here’s how things went: as the island was encircled—Peleliu, Iwo Jima, Okinawa—and all hope was lost, the order was given to kill ten American soldiers before taking one’s own life. The deceit of this system, where surrender is synonymous with dishonor, involves creating tunnels and secret pockets where Japanese soldiers hide and from which they emerge. Long before the atomic bomb, the knell of their war had sounded. Hiroshima and Nagasaki are just the result of human pride, of which Hirohito’s reign is the finest example. Why was this henchman of Satan left in place until his death? I don’t understand. While the humiliation inflicted on Germany repeatedly was abject, especially for its people, the absence of any real and pressing accountability for Hirohito in this large-scale carnage he instigated leaves room for the wildest interpretations. As if to underscore my point, Emperor Naruhito visited Okinawa the same day we did, paying his respects to the inhabitants who fell in battle. I looked at the faces in the monorail serving the south of the island. There were elderly people who undoubtedly lost their parents eighty years ago. To what extent can they blame this tragedy on the delusional visions of their leaders?

On Maeda Escarpment, I salute the courage of Desmond Doss, that conscientious objector who fought to serve his country while refusing to ever carry a weapon. There, at the top of a steep ridge, you can see to the north the Allies’ advance, while to the south, the slope is gentler down to Shuri, in front of the headquarters. The underground is a Swiss cheese filled with enemies. Desmond works as a medic. He manages to save 75 wounded from certain death by evacuating them at night from the battlefield using makeshift ropes. Back in Osaka, far from the somewhat dilapidated tropical islands, I rediscover the splendor and grandeur of Japan’s second-largest city. To tell the truth, and this applies to Okinawa too, the density is so insane on this archipelago that you sometimes wonder if it’s not just one giant city spread across the vast territory. Because between Tokyo and Osaka, while there are some mountains and forests, it’s the city that dominates; during rush hour, a rapid train connects the two cities every five minutes. We get lost in rather quiet alleys parallel to the main streets, only to find ourselves in the covered and lively galleries of Dōtonbori. We’re looking for a place to eat—above all, we’re trying to navigate the unlimited options stretching endlessly along the sidewalks. It’s absolutely mind-blowing. And while I introduce F. to a part of history that our Western societies have quickly forgotten, he initiates me into Japanese gastronomy despite my well-known aversion to Asian food. But nothing beats having a master in the field! We feast on okonomiyaki, Japanese pancakes expertly prepared and served on a teppan embedded in our table.

Night falls on Japan, and I still haven’t found the answer. Like in Singapore, one can praise the calm and serenity of human relationships, the delicacy that may just be hypocrisy, the politeness, the discipline. But above all, we notice that in the absence of freedom, in the absence of madness, poetry struggles to take root, boredom looms, as does real madness. Bushido still exists, honor is there and must be preserved. But the youth drowns in electronics and in willingly sterile cults (otaku), unable to discern what’s essential, failing to believe in their dreams. You have to succeed? Young people commit suicide because of school bullying, the slightly older ones because of work-related difficulties or marital problems. Nothing exceptional, we might say—average*—but you’d expect better from a country so well-organized, a country that makes so many Westerners dream. Yes, night falls on Japan. Empire of noise, empire of the senses, a very strange land where you find clean toilets in subway corridors but where the very meaning of life seems stifled by the mirages of technology. Above all, a civilization deprived of a penance that would prove salutary. We’re caught between two waters. Those of a shallow modernity without depth or anchor; those of a past that was majestic but irreparably tainted by the demonic madness of an overly adored emperor.

How can one fully thrive when guilt has no outlet?

(* France and Japan share a common statistic of 17 suicides per 100,000 inhabitants, which, depending on density, means 30 per day in France and 70 in Japan...)

A scam from A to Z.

A scam from A to Z.

I just got off a 15-day cruise around Japan on the Norwegian Spirit. Never again!

Drink prices are exorbitant ($12 before tax for a beer, a 500ml bottle of water for $6.50 before tax!!!)

That’s $13 per liter of water before tax!!!!!

No entertainment at all.

Shows were really mediocre.

No dedicated space for kids.

Food was repetitive, way too salty, and just not good.

Port stops were too short, and some days at sea were way too long!

Time to disembark: over an hour, like in Korea (Icheon). On a 5-hour stop, that’s wasted time!!

Excursion prices ranged from $199 to $350 per person (for less than 6 hours on land!!!)

And to top it all off: after a case of food poisoning on board and a visit to the ship’s doctor (in the middle of the night due to feeling unwell and vomiting), we were charged $4,800 for medical exams!!

Yes, you read that right: $4,800!!!!!!

Just to clarify, the person was in consultation for about 2.5 hours... These fees were directly charged to our account since they force you to register a credit card at the start of the cruise!!

On top of that: service charges on board: $20 per person per day! That’s $1,680 before tax, of course!! We contested them, but they were still charged!!

Other unknown fees charged by mistake!! I had to open a dispute with my bank.

So go with MSC or Costa instead...

but avoid Norwegian—an unscrupulous company that takes advantage of vulnerable people.

Date of experience: August 10, 2025

Hi everyone,

I’m heading to Japan for the second time with my 20-year-old son. During our first trip, we spent two weeks in Tokyo and Kyoto (plus the surrounding areas). This time, we’re planning to stay in Tokyo for at least 4-5 days and then head to the island of Naoshima. I’m looking for suggestions and advice: Is getting to Naoshima from Tokyo complicated? If so, do you have any recommendations for a stopover somewhere? Given that we’d prefer not to move every day, we’d rather settle in one place and then explore on day trips... Do you think it’s possible to do something like this: 5 nights in Tokyo (Shinjuku) 3 nights in Kyoto 2 nights in Naoshima (or is one night enough??) and if one night is enough, where could I spend a second night on the way back to Tokyo? 2 nights in Tokyo (I’d love your advice on staying in a different neighborhood—last time we stayed near Ueno Park)—keeping in mind we’re flying out of Narita.

I’m considering maybe skipping Kyoto, which I love but has apparently become *very* touristy... Not really keen on Osaka... since we’ll already have done Tokyo as our "big city." I’d prefer towns where nature is present... (a bit like Kyoto, which offers all that...)

For info, we’ll be traveling by train. Thanks in advance for all your suggestions and help!

I have one last little question: Is cash still widely used in Japan, or not at all anymore?

Thanks so much,

Karine

I'd like to fly with Thai Airways to Japan. Could anyone—or several people—share their thoughts on this airline?

Hi there,

My daughter, wife, and I are starting to plan a two-week trip to Japan for... April 2026. My wife wants us to really treat ourselves, so we’re considering business class (we usually fly premium economy or even economy). Since we’re departing from Paris and want a direct flight, we have three options: JAL, ANA, or Air France.

I’ve flown Air France in business quite a bit for work, and I do find it very comfortable. But I wonder if I’m just defaulting to a national bias—maybe the other two airlines have advantages I’m not considering.

If I’m looking at criteria like: - Comfort (especially for sleeping) - Meals - Entertainment

Any advice? Personal experiences? Have any of the three airlines updated their business class on this route recently?

Thanks! !

I set off (on October 9, 2010) with my backpack from the Takijiri-oji bus stop, the starting point of the Nakahechi Route, which takes two days to reach Hongu Taisha temple.

Day 1: 12 km and a cumulative elevation gain (CEG) of 750 m. It was raining heavily, but I was well equipped with lightweight Gore-Tex. Spent the night and had a very Japanese meal at the ryokan Tsuki-no-ya at the entrance of the small village of Chikatsuyu-oji.

Day 2: the toughest day: 25 km and 1,000 m of CEG (just as much in descents...). Beautiful weather. Lots of fairly steep slopes with many stairs. Spent the night and had a meal at B&B Café in Hongu. Check out their English website.

Day 3: a rest day to visit Hongu Taisha Temple, then Yunomine Onsen and Kawayu Onsen, where I spent the night at Ashita-no-mori. They’re charming, speak English, and they were the ones who booked my nights for days 2 and 4 since I don’t speak Japanese. Connections between these three villages are by bus. Beautiful weather.

Day 4: Kogumotori-goe branch, taken in the opposite direction to what many pilgrims do. Beautiful weather. 17 km and 450 m of CEG, with just as much in descents. Fairly steep slopes, sometimes slippery stone slabs, and a few stairway sections. Spent the night and had a meal at Koguchi Shizen-no-le.

Day 5: Cloudy but nice weather. Ogumotori-goe branch to Nachi Taisha. Nearly 17 km and 1,250 m of CEG, with 1,000 m in descents. Similar terrain to the other days. Visited the temple, then returned by bus and train to my "logistics base" in Shirahama.

Things to note: > Don’t carry too much water. There are drink vending machines in many places. Bonus: cold drinks and a sugar boost. > This route is a bit technical, but it’s doable for someone who’s prepared physically. PS: I’m 62 and not a superhuman. > Check out the Tanabe City Tourism Bureau website (www.tb-kumano.jp)—it’s very well done—and ask them to send you the small guide with the trail maps (Pilgrimage Route Maps). There’s a certain Brad Towle, very professional and efficient.

In conclusion: a trek off the beaten path, very rewarding to experience. Early October seems like the perfect time. But May or June should be great too. I didn’t encounter many hikers, except a few during the first two days because Monday was a public holiday. All Japanese.

I highly recommend this trail—the only one, along with the Camino de Santiago, to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Feel free to contact me for more details.

Hi there,

We’re thinking of spending 3 weeks in Asia this fall to visit some of the major capitals on this vast continent. We’d like to get a (very rough) sense of just how fast Asia is moving compared to what we see in the West (we’re from Quebec). For now, our very preliminary list includes Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Singapore. There are obviously plenty of other options—Seoul, Shanghai, etc.

What do you think? Thanks in advance!

Hello, I’m currently in Japan, in Osaka, and we just avoided a scam I wasn’t familiar with. We were in the tall tower in Tennoji when we were approached by two Japanese guys around 20 years old. One, speaking broken English, asked us to make a video for his friend who’s in the hospital. The scam involves distracting you to steal your phone or later asking for money for this so-called friend, while the other stays in the background and keeps an eye on our surroundings. We obviously refused, pretending we didn’t speak English, and they left. But after 10 minutes, they came back, this time translating with his phone. After looking it up online, they call this the "sick friend scam"—used to ask for money. I’ve been coming to Japan twice a year for 15 years and had never seen this before. Also, I’ve noticed some aggressive behavior from a few Japanese people toward tourists—shoving in stores, a 1000¥ fee for luggage when taking the train from the airport, and terrible service in some hotels. Japan plans to require an ETA (Electronic Travel Authorization) in 2025 for entry, which will need to be applied for and paid for online, along with a surveillance app. The exact date isn’t known yet, and Europe is protesting, considering reciprocity if necessary. Let’s see if this gets canceled, as the new prime minister seems to be backtracking.

Hi everyone,

We’re planning a family trip to Tokyo for late October 2026, and I’d love your advice on organizing this stay. Here’s some info to give you a better idea of our situation: • There’ll be two adults (one with a mild mobility impairment, which makes long walks tricky) and a child who’ll be 13 at the time. • We’d like to spend around 15 days there to explore temples, traditional Japanese culture, and, of course, the world of manga and video games.

My questions: 1. Weather in October: What’s the climate like during that period? Should we pack any specific clothing? 2. Flight bookings: When’s the best time to book? And, in your opinion, is it better to fly from Paris or Brussels? 3. Accommodation: We prefer Airbnb-style rentals or similar. Which neighborhoods do you recommend for good location without too much commuting? 4. Trip duration: Are 15 days enough for a first trip? 5. Accessibility: Any specific tips for someone who struggles with long walks (accessible transport, routes, etc.)? 6. Other recommendations: Must-visit spots in Tokyo (or nearby) for a family that loves manga, temples, and Japanese culture?

I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed starting the preparations, so any advice or personal experiences would be super helpful. Thanks in advance for your help!

Looking forward to reading your replies, Sam

Hi there,

Having already visited some of the "classic" spots during my first trip to Japan in 2006, I’d like to show my partner some slightly lesser-known places (all relative, of course!) for our trip planned in November 2025, while still keeping a few of the country’s "must-sees."

Here’s the rough itinerary I’ve sketched out so far:

- Day 1: Arrival in Tokyo – Night in Tokyo - Day 2: Depart for Kamakura – Night in Kamakura or return to Tokyo - Day 3: Depart for Matsumoto – Visit the castle – Night in Matsumoto - Day 4: Matsumoto – Narai – Tsumago – Night in Tsumago - Day 5: Tsumago – Magome (hike) – Night in Magome - Days 6, 7, 8, 9: Depart for Kyoto – Sightseeing – Nights in Kyoto - Day 10: Depart for Kinosaki Onsen – Night in Kinosaki - Day 11: Explore the area around Kinosaki (Takeno? Izushi?) – Night in Kinosaki - Day 12: Depart for Himeji – Visit the castle – Night in Himeji or Hiroshima - Day 13: Miyajima Island – Night in Hiroshima - Day 14: Depart for Onomichi – Night in Onomichi - Day 15: Bike day to Ikuchi Jima / return by ferry – Night in Onomichi - Day 16: Depart for Tomo-no-Ura then Kurashiki – Night in Kurashiki - Day 17: Depart for Okayama – Visit the garden – Night in Okayama - Day 18: Kibi Plain bike ride – Night in Okayama - Day 19: ??? - Days 20, 21, 22: Tokyo – Nights in Tokyo

I’m struggling a bit to gauge how long the travel times will be, despite my online research, so I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice on this itinerary.

Thanks so much in advance for your feedback!

Hi there, We’re heading to Japan soon and booked a room through Booking for our first two nights. The host is asking for a copy of our passports even though we’ve already paid. What do you all think? Thanks

✈️ Our travel journal from our one-month experience in Japan 🇯🇵

We’re sharing our trip from July 2025. A pretty classic itinerary for a first visit to Japan, between Osaka and Tokyo.

Our humble journal is available on our TRAVEL JOURNAL, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos there.

Hello,

What a joy to be back on this forum that I’ve browsed for so many years :-)!

I’m heading to Japan with my partner in November 2025. This will be my second trip there and his first.

I was planning to go from Tokyo to Matsumoto, which I haven’t visited before, and from there, check out Shirahone Onsen and then hike from Magome to Tsumago. However, after reading several travel journals, I’ve realized that the village of Shirakawa-go and its surroundings look amazing. Back in 2006, I visited Takayama, which I loved, but I don’t want to stay there again.

To visit the places mentioned above (Shirahone Onsen, Shirakawa-go, Magome, and Tsumago), I’m thinking that a car might be more convenient than public transport, especially for getting from Shirakawa-go to Magome. Could you confirm if that’s the case? If so, is it easy to rent a car for a few days to do a loop starting from Matsumoto?

Thanks in advance for your valuable tips.

Have a great evening

Hi there,

My wife and I are heading to Japan from March 27 to April 22, 2025. On the evening of the 21st, we’ll be staying in Tokyo to catch our international flight. For this first trip, we’ve prioritized a fairly classic itinerary. Here’s the plan:

- Osaka (arriving at Kansai Airport) - Hiroshima - Itsukushima (also known as Miyajima) - Kyoto - Nara - Kanazawa - Shirakawa-go - Takayama - Tokyo

We’ll likely finish our sightseeing in Tokyo around March 17.

We’re thinking of heading somewhere "quiet" or "by the sea," maybe an island, between the 17th/18th and the evening of the 21st.

What are your thoughts or experiences?

Thanks

Hi, Over the past few months, I’ve been noticing more and more reports about safety issues in Tokyo and Osaka targeting tourists. I knew the local population didn’t want tourists—or at least a lot fewer—under the previous prime minister’s policies. Right now, some friends are in Tokyo—four guys traveling together—and this is what happened to them: a Japanese guy approached them in Akihabara with a map, pretending to ask for directions. Then, eight others came from behind, beat them up, stole their phones, and 30,000 yen. They ran off, and all this happened around 6:00 PM.

They went to the *koban* (police station), but the police just laughed at them. Luckily, two of the phones had trackers, which they mentioned to the police, but the cops didn’t do anything. So, they called the French embassy. The next day, they had a meeting with an embassy delegate at the police station, but nothing happened for 24 hours. Then, two days later, they were summoned back to the police station, and to their shock, the police offered them a deal: they’d get their phones and the 30,000 yen back if they withdrew their complaint. In the end, they got their phones back (one with a cracked screen) and the 30,000 yen without withdrawing their complaint.

Before leaving their hotel for Osaka, they received a letter saying they could be banned from the country for three years. When they arrived in Osaka, their ATM withdrawals with their card were limited to 20,000 yen. They asked the Japanese postal agent why, and the response was, "You’re flagged in the deportable travelers registry." Their hotel canceled their reservation, and the embassy is now taking over by involving the justice system. (more below)