I set off (on October 9, 2010) with my backpack from the Takijiri-oji bus stop, the starting point of the Nakahechi Route, which takes two days to reach Hongu Taisha temple.
Day 1: 12 km and a cumulative elevation gain (CEG) of 750 m. It was raining heavily, but I was well equipped with lightweight Gore-Tex. Spent the night and had a very Japanese meal at the ryokan Tsuki-no-ya at the entrance of the small village of Chikatsuyu-oji.
Day 2: the toughest day: 25 km and 1,000 m of CEG (just as much in descents...). Beautiful weather. Lots of fairly steep slopes with many stairs. Spent the night and had a meal at B&B Café in Hongu. Check out their English website.
Day 3: a rest day to visit Hongu Taisha Temple, then Yunomine Onsen and Kawayu Onsen, where I spent the night at Ashita-no-mori. They’re charming, speak English, and they were the ones who booked my nights for days 2 and 4 since I don’t speak Japanese. Connections between these three villages are by bus. Beautiful weather.
Day 4: Kogumotori-goe branch, taken in the opposite direction to what many pilgrims do. Beautiful weather. 17 km and 450 m of CEG, with just as much in descents. Fairly steep slopes, sometimes slippery stone slabs, and a few stairway sections. Spent the night and had a meal at Koguchi Shizen-no-le.
Day 5: Cloudy but nice weather. Ogumotori-goe branch to Nachi Taisha. Nearly 17 km and 1,250 m of CEG, with 1,000 m in descents. Similar terrain to the other days. Visited the temple, then returned by bus and train to my "logistics base" in Shirahama.
Things to note:
> Don’t carry too much water. There are drink vending machines in many places. Bonus: cold drinks and a sugar boost.
> This route is a bit technical, but it’s doable for someone who’s prepared physically. PS: I’m 62 and not a superhuman.
> Check out the Tanabe City Tourism Bureau website (www.tb-kumano.jp)—it’s very well done—and ask them to send you the small guide with the trail maps (Pilgrimage Route Maps). There’s a certain Brad Towle, very professional and efficient.
In conclusion: a trek off the beaten path, very rewarding to experience. Early October seems like the perfect time. But May or June should be great too. I didn’t encounter many hikers, except a few during the first two days because Monday was a public holiday. All Japanese.
I highly recommend this trail—the only one, along with the Camino de Santiago, to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Feel free to contact me for more details.
I really enjoyed your lovely hiking story, because on the official Japan website, there are very few comments about the Kii Mountains region.
Thanks for referring us to the Tanabe site—it’s very informative: the maps you can download are really clear.
After seeing a documentary about the region by train, I’d love to know how you got around. Also, how did you manage to book those ryokans? From France or on the spot?
One last question: did you stay in Koyasan? Many forum members rave about the experience, but it seems other temples in Japan (like in Kyoto) also welcome tourists.
Great job on those beautiful hikes.
Have a nice day,
Anne.
Hi there, and thanks for sharing your experience!
This all sounds so tempting... I'd love to do the same itinerary as you, probably next spring.
However, before I dive in, I was wondering if you think there are any risks to doing it solo? I know Japan’s cities well, but hiking would be a first for me. For context, I live in Korea where I hike both in groups and solo without any issues or worries. I speak Korean but not Japanese.
Thanks!
Hali.
I didn’t mention it, but I did this hike with a backpack.
To get to the starting point (Takijiri-oji), I took the Meiko Bus from Shirahama Station (a really nice seaside resort where I’d arrived two days earlier from Kansai International Airport in Osaka). The ride took 40 minutes.
At Nachi Taisha, I took a Kotsu Bus to Kii-Katsuura Station and then returned to Shirahama.
Ryokan reservations: As I mentioned, I got help from Ashita-no-mori guesthouse in Kawayu Onsen—which *is* listed in the Lonely Planet guide. That said, the Tanabe Tourism Office announced that an English booking site will go live in November. I had the honor of testing it in "draft" mode back in July.
Koyasan: Be aware, this site is quite far north of Hongu Taisha, and I didn’t go there. You *could* do that route (the Kohechi Route) to Hongu in 3 days on foot, but I don’t have any details (maps, accommodations, elevation changes, etc.).
Let me know how it goes if you decide to go for it.
Well, it's not exactly crowded on this trail, but things are moving thanks to the World Heritage "recognition" and maybe because of the first accounts from Westerners like mine...
The first three days coincided with a three-day "long weekend," and overall, the weather was beautiful (except for the very rainy Saturday). So I probably saw around thirty Japanese people, mostly on the last 8 km of the second stage.
Over the last two days, I crossed paths with just 15 people in total.
Risks: in terms of aggression—none. For emergencies like a fall, you’ll need a cell phone and should note the emergency number right from the start, as it’s regularly posted along the trail signs. Since the area is quite remote, I’m not sure how good the reception is—I didn’t test it.
You probably speak English. Contrary to what’s often said, most Japanese people understand key words.
Thanks for replying so quickly.
I didn’t know there was an emergency number. That’s pretty useful—it’ll definitely help me make up my mind for good.
I didn’t have time this autumn, but I hope it’ll be just as great in the spring...
Anyway, thanks for all the valuable info,
Hali.
I’ve been waiting for your update ;) Thanks for the report and the photos—I just checked out your blog too.
I’d love to experience the Kumano Kodo next April, but I don’t have the physical stamina for what you did (I know my limits well).
So, I’m planning to rent a car to get around the region for 4 days and do some short day hikes (4–5 hours of walking), or maybe a two-day trek if it works out.
From your photos, the Ogumotori-goe route to Nachi Taisha really appeals to me—the views look so open, and my husband, who loves mountain hiking, would enjoy it too.
What you did on the third day also looks really nice.
I’m off to order the brochures from the tourism office website; that’ll help me plan this part of our trip to Japan.
If you have any tips for a weekend hiker like me, don’t hesitate!
I hiked the Kumano Kodo starting from Tanabe: the train station and tourist office are under construction, and there’ll soon be a brand-new center. I took the Nakahechi route—my first time, and in the middle of summer, it wasn’t exactly a walk in the park.
Next year, I’ll start from Mount Koya.
There’s a great article in the latest issue of *TREK* magazine about this pilgrimage.
My pilgrimage project: from Saint-Jacques to Fukushima:
Hi,
I read your blog.
I think your disappointment comes largely from the time of year you "did" the Kumano Kodo. Generally speaking, it’s best to avoid peak season wherever you go in the world if you can—the crowds and high temperatures really spoil the experience.
Personally, I went there in mid-October with ideal weather (except for rain on the first day) and hardly saw anyone.
And I loved Nachi.
Unfortunately, I don’t have a choice about the season. Mount Yoshino with the cherry blossoms in bloom must be magical, not to mention autumn.
I just have to hope it won’t be (too) scorching hot.
I’m heading back to Shikoku this year for the Yosakoi dance festivals in Kochi and the Awa Odori in Tokushima, which takes place from August 15th to 17th. From there, I’ll take the ferry to Wakayama, then head to Koyasan, followed by Mount Yoshino, and finally Kumano Hongu Taisha via the Kohechi trail to the north. After that, I’ll make my way to Ise Jingu, then Izumo, and finally up north to Hokkaido for some cooler weather!
I’m heading to the Kumano Kodo trails in early April. Since it’s a busy time with many hotels fully booked, I’m reserving everything now.
I plan to hike the section between Hongu and Katsuura on foot, stopping at Nachi-Taisha and Koguchi.
I have two questions:
- I’m not at all trained for hiking, but I’m in decent physical shape—I was able to hike for hours without issues for several days in a row in the Lake District in England. Does the difficulty level seem reasonable to you?
- Do you recommend hiking from Hongu toward Nachi or the other way around? (For scenery and difficulty)
To gauge the difficulty of this section of the KK, check out the Tanabe City Tourism Bureau website. You’ll find your routes there with elevation profiles (HERE and HERE). Be aware that the total elevation changes are more significant than they appear on the map, where they’re smoothed out.
But it also depends on how many days you’ve planned for your trek.
Anyway, when I did it (my blog from that trip), I got the impression that the Japanese were hiking it in the opposite direction to me—from Nachi to Hongu.
Still, I’d recommend training a bit before you go (a few hikes with elevation changes).
Thanks for the quick reply! I also found the tourism office’s website—it’s really well done, actually. http://www.kumano-travel.com/index/en/action_Default_Index
The online booking system is now up and running (and at very reasonable prices, cheaper than on other well-known sites!), which is super convenient!
Do you think I’ll need any special gear, like a compass, etc.? Or will just printing the maps be enough?
You mentioned: no need to carry too much water since there are vending machines… I’m curious—so should I bring 1 liter of water per day, or is it really unnecessary?
I’ll be doing the Nachi Taisha to Koguchi section (apparently the toughest) on the first day, then from Koguchi to Hongu, where I’ll stay for 2 days to enjoy the temples and onsens.
No, you don’t need any special gear—just hiking equipment suited to the weather conditions.
Start in the morning with a 500ml bottle, and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to refill with lightly sweetened bottled water or soda. Yes, you’ll find drink vending machines even in unlikely spots, like a forest crossroads with restrooms. You can really count on this and save weight in your pack.
At these vending machines, you can pay with coins, bills, and maybe even by card at some.
If the weather’s on your side, you’re going to love the magic of this historic trail.
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L'île d'Hokkaïdo du 16 août au 5 septembre 2015 (3 semaines). Découverte sac au dos de l'île d'Hokkaïdo: un trek renommé dans le Daisetsuzan NP (le plus grand…
Bonjour,
Ne pouvant pas me lancer dans de longs treks, j'aimerais savoir s'il y a des randos sympas à faire autour de Pokhara ou éventuellement dans une autre région du Népal. Rando à la journée ou sur deux jours.
Merci d'avance pour vos réponses.
Hi everyone,
I’m leaving on Monday, August 3rd for my very first long-distance trek: the GR223 from Coutances to Mont Saint-Michel, over 6-7 days (~11-14 miles/day), solo.
I’m looking for tips from people who know this section well (Coutances → Regnéville-sur-Mer → Hauteville-sur-Mer → Bréhal → Granville → Genêts → bay crossing):
Budget-friendly accommodations: I’m struggling to find affordable stopover lodgings (a lot of what I find online are expensive vacation rentals, not really suited for a solo hiker). If you have any great spots (hostels, hiker-friendly B&Bs, nice campgrounds), I’d love to hear them!
Bay crossing: Any feedback on guides/providers leaving from Genêts for the final crossing?
General tips for a first long-distance trek: What you wish you’d known before your first time, pitfalls to avoid, etc.
Hi,
We’re planning to do the 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli without an agency. The descriptions mention that there are accommodations at each stop, but we can’t find any details about them. Has anyone got info or feedback on this route?
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028.
I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄).
This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
We're planning to trek in Peru and Bolivia and would love to find some local agencies.
If you know any, could you share details on prices and, of course, the names of the agencies?
Which trek would you recommend?
Elocine
I'm heading out on a fully self-sufficient trek in Morocco (10 days) from Imilchil to Aghbalou.
Can I find screw-on gas canisters (Coleman, Primus) in Marrakech (any addresses?) or in villages between Imilchil and Aghbalou?
If not, are Butagaz canisters for camping gas (small 230g size) available?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont.
The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips.
We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries!
Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
I’d love to know if anyone has done treks in the Rwenzori Mountains and how much it costs on average, what the infrastructure is like, the landscapes, and safety in the area. Thanks so much! I’m really looking forward to your replies.
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike.
It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge.
I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle.
In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details:
We arrive in early August and leave in early September.
We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery!
We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat?
Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations.
Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July.
I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route.
Can anyone give me some info on this?
Thanks!
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there?
A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions?
For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip...
Thanks for your tips!
Have a great day,
Anie, Toulouse
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice?
Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish.
I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips?
Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina?
At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
My question: can anyone suggest a 5-to-7-day loop hiking route from Chefchaouen in Talassemtane Park, ideally passing by the God’s Bridge? Or a paper guidebook that covers a few options?
We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
Thanks in advance
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS.
Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands.
Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili.
Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?)
There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4.
If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
