Hi there.

I’m planning a family trip to Greece in July for 7/8 days. There are two adults and I have three daughters aged 12, 4, and 2. 1. Which islands would you recommend for a total budget of 3000 €? For activities, we’re looking for beaches, short walks, and other kid-friendly options. 2. Is it better to go all-inclusive or book flights, hotels, and meals separately? Thanks

Hello,

My partner and I are heading to Crete for 17 days this summer, from July 25 to August 11, with a rental car. We’ll book the first night or the first two nights, but our plan is to explore the east—and only the east—with no set itinerary and no other reservations.

For those in the know, are we being reckless? 🤣

We’ve had some experience with this kind of travel in Greece before: 10 days in western Crete in 2021 (though that was post-Covid) and 10 days in the Peloponnese in 2024. We only booked the first night each time, and it wasn’t really an issue. Even if we didn’t always find a place in the exact spot we were aiming for, we’d just stay a little further out, a bit less touristy, and it was great!

Do you think this style of travel is still doable in Crete in August by 2026?

Thanks for any insights if you’ve had this experience!

Best,

Hi there.

I’m looking for feedback from travelers or tips from locals on how to get around the islands. There are four of us—two teens—and my partner isn’t super comfortable riding a scooter. So, should we rent a car? By the day or for 4 days on each island we’re visiting (Tinos, Paros, Syros)? Is it possible to rent e-bikes? Is that a good idea?

Thanks for your input!

Tom

hi Are there any ferries that take cars from Turkey to the Greek islands—for example, Bodrum to Kos? Could you give me the details? Thanks

Hi there, we’re heading to the Cyclades from June 23 to July 9. We’ll arrive in Santorini and leave from Mykonos. We’re thinking of visiting these islands: Folegandros, Milos, Sifnos, Tinos, and Mykonos. Do you think it’s better to book the ferries now (which site do you recommend for booking?) or can we buy the tickets on the spot? Also, do you have any suggestions for accommodation under 100 €/night on each of these islands? Thanks in advance!

Hi there! We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway! Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece. We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!! The oil shortage is also worrying us... If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!

Thanks!!

I'm looking to travel to Turkey from Greece by car. Do you know any ferry companies that operate this route? Thanks for your replies

Hi there,

We’re planning a 12-day trip to Greece next February.

It’s our first time, so we’ll be hitting the "Must-Sees"—that should keep us busy enough! 😎

The itinerary isn’t set in stone yet, but we’re already wondering if it’s doable or just crazy, if some stops are essential or a waste of time...

Here’s the plan: Day 1-2-3: Athens (we arrive midday on Day 1) Day 4: Southern Athens (Temple of Neptune) then overnight in Corinth (we’re renting a car from the airport) Day 5-6-7: Western/Southern Peloponnese (one or two places to stay, and the iconic spots: Acrocorinth, Cargo, Mycenae, Sanctuary of Epidaurus, Nafplio, Nemea...) Day 8: Transit to Delphi via Olympia Day 9-10: Delphi, Monastery of Osios Loukas... Day 11: Return to Athens via Thermopylae We were wondering if it’s feasible to add the Meteora monasteries? And Mount Olympus, just for fun?

For accommodations, do you have any recommendations for Athens? Peloponnese? Delphi? In Athens, I think it’s best to stay near the metro line that connects to the airport. But which neighborhood is good? It’s hard to navigate such a big city...

Two more questions: - Is Piraeus worth a visit? - We know February is a quieter time than peak tourist season, and that’s what we like. But there must be consequences—do all sites/museums close by 5 PM (except in Athens, maybe)? What do you do in the evenings once it’s dark?

Thanks in advance for your tips and advice!

Hi everyone! Is there a bus that connects Santorini Airport to the port on the island? Is it direct, or do you have to change buses at the bus station? Thanks for your tips on this! 🙂

We’ll be spending two nights on Mykonos at the end of May so we can visit Delos. I’m wondering if we can easily find a boat by just heading to the port the same morning or if it’s better to book in advance.

Hi there,

I’m heading to the Cyclades at the end of May and looking into inter-island ferries. I’m a bit confused because, for example, to go from Mykonos to Naxos, there are 3 ferries leaving at the same time for the same price. So I’m wondering if there are any companies to prioritize (or, on the contrary, to avoid). Thanks in advance for your feedback! 😉

Hi everyone, I’d love to get your thoughts on a 13-night trip to Crete this summer. We’ll be 2 adults and 2 kids (5 and 10 years old), and we’re renting a car to get around. ➔ If you have any tips on renting a car, I’m all ears! (I was thinking of picking it up at the airport.) For now, I’m planning a round-trip flight to Heraklion (I’m still debating whether to return from Chania, in which case we’d spend our last night in Paleóchora or Elos). Here’s how I’m splitting up the nights:

08/07 - 11/07 (3 nights) → Heraklion

Visit the Minoan Palace of Knossos Explore the city: archaeological museum, Venetian harbor, Koules Fortress Possible day trip to Matala or the east coast, depending on how we feel

11/07 - 14/07 (3 nights) → Rethymnon

Explore Rethymnon’s old town Walk around Argiroupoli (natural springs, waterfalls) Relax on the beaches in the area

14/07 - 18/07 (4 nights) → Chania

Visit the historic center Day trip to Seitan Limania (wild beach) Day at Balos Beach & Gramvousa (by boat or hike)

18/07 - 20/07 (2 nights) → Paleóchora or Elos ➔ Do you have a preference between these two spots? They both seem like great, low-key places, but Elos is more mountainous.

Hike through Samaria Gorge (full-day trip) ➔ Do you think this is doable with a 5-year-old? I’ve read there’s a bus at the end of the gorge, but I’m worried about missing the ferry and having to rush the kids. Relax at Elafonissi Beach

20/07 - 21/07 (1 night) → Heraklion

Return the day before our flight to avoid stress.

Thanks in advance for your feedback and tips! 😊

Hi everyone, A little feedback on our 12-day cruise in early November on the Lirica.





The Lirica is a human-sized ship with 2,500 passengers for an old-school cruise—no extra-charge themed restaurants or bars, but large lounge bars with plenty of seating. We had no trouble grabbing a drink. The meals are decent, the staff is always helpful, but the ship is starting to show its age, and the cabins aren’t exactly fresh anymore. The low point: the shows were the worst we’ve seen in eight cruises—barely up to camping standards.

Day 1 Boarding in Venice. Since the ship now departs from Marghera, there’s a transfer from the terminal to the ship by water shuttle. Day 2 At sea. Day 3 Katakolon We’ve already visited Olympia twice, so we did some shopping at the port and the only shopping street. Day 4 Heraklion Excursion with MSC to the Palace of Knossos and shopping. It’s a bit pricier than doing it on your own, but you get the guide’s explanations.





After visiting the palace, we explored Heraklion—a very lively city.

Day 5 Rhodes The ship docks just steps from the old town, a magnificent city surrounded by its ramparts.







Visit to the Palace of the Grand Masters.

14-Day Trip Report to Milos and Kimolos in September-October 2021



The village of Plaka in Milos

It was with great pleasure that we finally reconnected with our old habits as inveterate travelers! Greece, and more specifically the Greek islands, was the natural choice for us. After having already visited many Greek islands during around 18 trips, we decided to revisit islands we had seen over 40 years ago, like Milos, where our memories were extremely hazy. Our route was well-planned and familiar: a low-cost flight from Basel-Mulhouse to Athens, then a traditional ferry from Piraeus to Milos. Taking a speedboat, which is faster, would have forced us to spend a night in Piraeus. Plus, we felt that the traditional ferry was part of the journey, and with good weather, spending eight hours on deck wasn’t unpleasant at all. Watching the docking maneuvers with the comings and goings of trucks and cars, observing the passengers, reading a book, or admiring the scenery—all of that is part of the travel experience. Milos Island: Accommodation in Adamas We arrived quite late, around 11 PM, in Adamas, the port of Milos. No worries—the friendly couple managing the apartment was waiting for us, and it was just a 10-minute walk from the port. The first two days were spent unwinding, with swimming at the nearby beach, strolling through Adamas, and relaxing.

Discovering Plaka On the third day, we took the path along the small beach west of town toward a French military cemetery! A historical reminder of our presence here during the Crimean War, among others. The path climbs toward a beacon perched on top of a hill before disappearing into the scrubland. We returned to Adamas for lunch on our terrace.



In the afternoon, we visited the hilltop village of Plaka by bus from Adamas. Plaka is the original old town, dominated by a church and, even higher up, the ruins of the Kastro. The view is magnificent. We stopped at a pastry shop in the village to enjoy excellent orange cakes and baklavas. Back in Adamas, we checked out car rental agencies to be more mobile, though the bus network seemed quite extensive. It costs around 40 € per day, plus 8 € if you want to significantly reduce the deductible. Port of Klima.

Yesterday’s weather was quite mixed with lots of clouds, but today the sun is shining again. We drove to the small port of Klima, famous for its boat garages called "sirmatas." It’s true that in the morning sun, these boat garages carved into the volcanic tuff are beautifully lit, turning the village into a colorful mosaic. Above the village, a path climbs directly to the magnificent Roman theater overlooking the surroundings and the sea. Following the well-marked path, we reached the road leading 200 meters down to the catacombs. It’s an impressive complex of 3rd and 4th-century catacombs, though only a small part is open to visitors—it’s still very moving. In the mid-afternoon, we got back in the car to visit the tiny ports of Firopotamos and Mandraki, which also have their colorful sirmatas. We took the opportunity to swim at the small beach in Mandraki, where the water was warm and calm. Mandraki Port. We had a decent dinner at a seaside restaurant in Adamas, though you have to be selective—we had a bad experience at Kynigos on the second night! Moving to Polonia in Eastern Milos, Sarakiniko Site



The Sarakiniko site We left Adamas for a second stay on Milos, this time in Polonia. The rental Panda was packed with the four of us and our luggage! Our apartment was in a beautiful house surrounded by a grove, so our lovely terrace was well-shaded. Luckily, there was a small beach nearby, and we went for a swim right away. Apart from us, there were only three other swimmers—definitely the end of the season!



"Fairy chimney"! In the afternoon, we visited the famous Sarakiniko site, Milos’ emblematic spot. Judging by the number of cars in the parking lot, we wouldn’t be alone. As we approached, we heard an indefinable rock/punk/metal music: some young people had brought a sound system and a foghorn and were having fun diving off a fairly high cliff to impress the crowd. It definitely spoiled the visit. Most spots were taken by couples busy taking selfies, so getting photos of the site without tourists was impossible. Still, the site is magnificent, with its white cliffs looking like they’re covered in whipped cream! The sun was still very bright, reflecting strongly off the cliffs, making photography difficult due to the excessive brightness. We had a fish dinner in Polonia at the Enalion restaurant: while the octopus and squid were good, the fish soup tasted more like vegetable soup with a few fish crumbs—too bad.



Sunset in Polonia

Ports of Papafranga and Mytikos We continued our exploration of Milos with the Papafranga gorge, a narrow and deep gorge that opens to the sea, where the water is a stunning color. Access via an unstable and dangerous path is prohibited, but that didn’t stop a couple of tourists in flip-flops from venturing in!!! We then swam in the tiny, calm, and sheltered cove of the small port of Mytikos. We returned to Polonia for lunch at Alkis: excellent moussaka. In the late afternoon, Pat and I went out to take some photos just before sunset near the Agios Nikolaos chapel, the beacon, and the new Petakoudia neighborhood next to Polonia to the north.



Paleochori Beach

Toward the Multicolored Beach of Paleochori Another sunny day: we still had to discover Paleochori Beach in the south of the island. It was 10:30 AM, and the beach was almost deserted! The water was pleasant, though a bit chilly when we first entered. The beach is bordered by a cliff that, in some places, displays a beautiful multicolored palette. We returned to Polonia in the late afternoon, and Pat and I headed toward Vouddhia Beach south of Polonia—bad choice. The beach is surrounded by a huge mining site served by a dusty road where lines of trucks loaded with ore cross paths. It’s the other side of the coin, and Greece still has progress to make in this area. Dinner at Alki’s was just as good as always. Return to the Sarakiniko Site Early this morning, Pat and I went back to the Sarakiniko site, hoping to take photos in better conditions. While there were fewer people, the parking lot was still full because sunrise is a must in Milos. Still, the conditions were good, and the sunrise spectators left quickly once the sun had risen above the horizon. During the day, an increasingly strong wind cooled the atmosphere, making swimming less enjoyable. Departure for Kimolos Island We changed islands and left Milos for Kimolos, a nearby island—just a 30-minute trip from Polonia’s port. Our apartment was at the entrance of the hilltop village. It’s a village with typical Cycladic architecture, featuring the remains of an old kastro, a few old churches, and windmill towers perched on the hill. We dined in a tiny tavern where the small outdoor tables were squeezed against the walls to let passersby through! As soon as the sun disappeared, it got cold, especially because of the wind. Ports of Kara and Goupa This morning, we explored the small hamlets of Kara and Goupa by Rema Beach, east of the main port. There, we found the sirmatas again—those boat garages partly carved into the volcanic tuff. The path winds between several sirmatas before climbing back up to the Praça road to return to the apartment.



Ports of Kara and Goupa

In the afternoon, we strolled through town, and Pat and I climbed the hill overlooking the village to get a closer look at the few more or less ruined windmills dotting the ridge. Only one mill still had its complete mechanism in place under the roof; the others were empty. The view over the village, port, and sea was beautiful. That evening, we tried another restaurant in the village center, Kali Kardia Bohoris, which was well-frequented by locals, and we didn’t regret it: delicious food, efficient and friendly service, and reasonable prices.



The Kastro Mill

Toward Aliki Beach We walked to Aliki Beach, west of the main village. It’s a large sandy beach shaded by tamarisk trees, but the strong wind prevented us from enjoying it. In the afternoon, I set off on a hike toward the fairy chimney at Skiadi (1.5 hours one way). The paths were very well-marked with signs indicating the trail number and the time to reach the destination. The countryside was beautiful but very dry at this time of year, and as always in Greece, many white chapels dotted the landscape. The numerous dry stone walls testify to the immense labor done by the island’s inhabitants over the centuries! For our last day in Kimolos, we decided to visit the beautiful Praça Beach, one of the most beautiful according to the guides! To get there, we took a path through the interior before joining the paved road near a large dump overflowing with various waste. It’s the flip side of the scenery, and Greece still has progress to make in this area. In the end, Praça Beach left us underwhelmed. The environment, marred by mining operations, detracts from the charm of the beautiful sandy beach. End of the Trip, Return to Piraeus and France And that’s it—we took the Zanteferries ferry back to Piraeus, arriving after a calm and sunny 10-hour journey. We had dinner at Souvlaki Street on the port and spent a good night at the Faros I Hotel in Piraeus—a great spot, close to the port, very clean, and reasonably priced. We flew from Athens to Basel-Mulhouse EuroAirport without any issues. N.B. Budget: around 1850 € all included for 14 days per couple The photo album is available by clicking this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wRpxRipg4erpzGj99

Hello,

We want to book our tickets to visit the Acropolis site and the associated museum. For these reservations, we need to specify entry time slots.

For the Acropolis alone: the first slot is at 8:30 AM. For the museum: 10 AM? 11 AM? We like to wander around, so here’s our question: if we haven’t finished exploring the site after 1.5 hours, is it possible to go back in after leaving the museum?

We’ll be buying tickets from the official websites—audio guides are mentioned. Any feedback on those? On sites like Get Your Guide, the prices are much higher with the audio guide included, but does that mean better quality?

Thanks for your help

Hi there, the island of Limnos (or Lemnos) looks like a great spot for a September trip: not too many tourists at that time, plenty of hiking opportunities, beaches, villages, etc. That said, guidebooks mention an airbase on the island, with some sources saying there are more or less frequent aircraft flyovers. For those who’ve been there—how’s the situation with this? Lots of air traffic or noise issues? Thanks in advance

HELLO!

For a trip to the Cyclades in early May (1st–18th), we’re planning to visit Naxos, Amorgos, and finish on Paros to catch a flight back to Athens.

I was wondering if we need to book the ferries now or if we can wait a bit... also, for car rental, can we book on the spot?

For accommodations, our bookings are done except for Paros... any suggestions for good value-for-money options?

Also, any other tips about our route or anything else would be super welcome!!!

Thanks in advance from Quebec! 🙂

Christine

Hello, I’ll be in Greece with my two daughters, aged 10 and 13, from July 6th to 27th. I’ve planned a route that seems fairly coherent, but I’d love to hear your thoughts:

J1 – Arrive in Athens in the afternoon and head straight to Corinth for the night J2 – Relax (beach) and visit Corinth or nearby – night in Corinth J3 – Mycenae + Epidaurus + Nafplio – night in Nafplio J4 – Mystras + Olympia – night in Olympia J5 – Delphi – night in Delphi J6 – Meteora (monasteries and more) – night in Kalambaka J7 – Meteora (nature walk) – night in Athens J8 – Explore Athens – night in Athens J9 – Explore Athens – night in Athens J10 – Ferry to Santorini + visit – night in Santorini J11 – Amorgos or another island – night in Amorgos J12 – Amorgos or another island – night in Amorgos J13 – Amorgos or another island – night in Amorgos J14 – Naxos – night in Naxos J15 – Naxos – night in Naxos J16 – Naxos – night in Naxos J17 – Paros – night in Paros J18 – Paros – night in Paros J19 – Paros – night in Paros J20 – Paros – night in Paros J21 – Ferry from Paros to Athens (is this possible?) – night in Athens J22 – Departure late morning

I’d like to know if there’s a town in the Peloponnese where we can stay and visit everything from there—I’d prefer not to change hotels every night. Are there any stops I can skip? Any must-see additions? I’d love to find pools or beaches to cool off at the end of the day—with the heat and the kids, we’ll need to refresh after sightseeing! For the Cyclades, I’m thinking of spending just an afternoon and evening in Santorini before moving on. I’m looking for authentic, quiet, beautiful islands with few tourists and nice beaches. Should I book all our rooms before leaving, or can we improvise a little? Thanks for your tips!

Planning Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, and Greece for autumn 2025

Hi there, My partner and I are planning to visit Paros from June 4th to 11th, 2025. I’ve been reading a lot of conflicting things, so I’m a bit confused. Does Paros feel more like St. Tropez or Porto-Vecchio—overcrowded, too built-up, and has it lost its authentic charm? Are umbrella and sunbed prices on the beach still reasonable? Thanks so much for your input—we’re thinking of heading there in early June with my partner.

In the summer of 2022, we spent 14 nights in Greece with an itinerary built around three hubs: - Skopelos (Sporades Islands): 5 nights at the Aperitton Hotel on Skopelos - Meteora: 2 nights at the Doupiani House Hotel in Kastraki - Pelion: 2 nights at Karavia Lux Inn in Afissos + 5 nights at Akro Rooms Hotel in Agios Ioannis and 1 night in Volos before taking the boat back

We traveled with Transavia (Paris/Skiathos). From there, we took a boat to Skopelos, then another to Volos, and a return boat to Skiathos.

Thoughts on our hotels: Aperitton: Not bad, well-located but a bit "dated" Doupiani: Amazing, top-notch staff, dreamy breakfasts with a view of Meteora Karavia: Luxury, peace, and bliss (plus a great-value dinner option on-site) Akro: Simple and nice, breakfast on the terrace just above the beach

Our highlights: - The magic of Meteora - Exploring Skopelos by scooter, beach to beach - Karavia - The villages of Pelion (Pinakates, Milies, Tsagkarada, Portaria, and Makrinitsa...) - The beaches around Agios Ioannis - Octopus and fish at the local fishermen’s restaurants

Car rental in Volos from Aegean Car Rent: a beat-up 207—avoid! For accommodation prices and restaurant picks, we followed the *Routard* guide’s advice.

And since a picture’s worth a thousand words, here’s Skopelos to start:

Hi there, Our first trip to Greece as a couple. We're planning to spend 7 days in Greece from August 30th to September 5th. We'll reserve 2 days for Athens at the end of the trip. For the remaining 5 days, we want to visit an island—any recommendations? Thanks for your tips and details, we really appreciate it.

Hi everyone, I’m planning my first trip to Greece from October 29th to November 23rd and I’d love to hear your thoughts and suggestions on the itinerary I’m considering. For a first visit, I’ll definitely cover the traditional tourist route, but I’m also open to off-the-beaten-path ideas. I’m curious and interested in history, archaeological sites, and the islands—more for culture than beaches, anyway, especially in November!

Here’s the plan: 3–4 days in Athens, 2 days in Nafplio: visiting Epidaurus and Mycenae, Stop in Olympia on the way to Delphi via Patras by bus? To avoid backtracking to Athens; 2 days in Delphi, including the site and Mount Parnassus, Explore the Ionian coast and a few islands? A few days in Corfu, 3 days in Meteora, 2–3 days in Thessaloniki, Direct flight from Thessaloniki to Heraklion, Crete, 3–4 days in Crete, November 22nd–23rd: overnight ferry back to Athens to catch my return flight to Montreal.

You’ve probably guessed I’m traveling solo. It might seem a bit scattered right now—I’ve started reading up on Greece, and there are must-see spots. What feels unclear are the 4–5 days between Delphi and Corfu. Also, mid-November in the islands might not be ideal if the weather’s bad.

Is Corfu worth it? Maybe there are other options—like a few days in Albania? Just throwing the idea out there.

Thanks for your input! I’d love to hear about your experiences to help enrich my upcoming trip.

Hi there, Here’s a little recap of my cruise on the CELEBRITY INFINITY from February 14th to 23rd. Itinerary: Athens / Thessaloniki / Thessaloniki / Kusadasi / AT SEA / Cyprus / AT SEA / Rhodes / Heraklion / Athens / Athens Since the cruise ended on Monday, we had to leave the ship on Sunday to go back to work on Monday 😕 Bring on retirement! This was our 34th cruise, and the price was around 1,300 € per person for AQUACLASS. Just to remind you, AQUACLASS includes spa access, a cabin with a hydro-massage shower, and a dedicated restaurant. For once, I have to say we didn’t get a good deal—prices dropped two months before departure, and we could’ve had AQUACLASS in a guaranteed cabin for 1,000 € per person. So, I think for January/February cruises, it’s better to book last-minute. We arrived in Piraeus on the 12th in the evening. The hotel was great—"Phidias Piraeus Hotel"—close to the center, with a spacious room (upgraded by Booking to a junior suite). The breakfast was decent, and the price was 125 € for two nights, all included. The cherry on top? The hotel offers free shuttles to the cruise ship on departure day—really awesome! We’d never visited Piraeus before, and it was a lovely surprise. Not only was the weather gorgeous, but the walk was really pleasant—the port, the beach, the little streets. It was way nicer than I’d imagined! TO BE CONTINUED: BOARDING 😉

Hello,

Who among us hasn’t dreamed of having a ticket to Tahiti, Bora Bora, or the Marquesas in their pocket—preferably a one-way ticket to “paradise”?

Idyllic landscape of a dream island, but difficult to access: the Bay of Virgins in Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands

Among the values conveyed by literature, tourism, and advertising is the quest for “elsewhere,” for a change of scenery, in the truest sense of the word—that is, the need to leave one’s country. This need for otherness, for difference, is projected onto dreamlike, idealized, even mythicized places. In our imaginary world, the island is often that place.

Yet we forget that islands have also been ideal prisons. The examples are numerous: Elba and Saint Helena, Alcatraz and Poulo Condor, If and Yeu, the Devil’s Islands and Leros. The latter, located in Greece in the Dodecanese, hosted a sinister forced labor camp during the colonels’ dictatorship as well as a psychiatric hospital. Despite the beauty of its bay, tourism has remained marginal there due to its bad reputation, unlike the neighboring island of Patmos.

I’d like to share a selection of about a dozen islands from across the world’s seas and oceans. For dreaming...

°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°

SANTORINI



July 27, 1967

At dawn, the ferry from Agios Nikolaos (Crete) enters the immense caldera of Santorini. From the ship’s deck, Rainer, my travel companion, and I are left in awe by the sight of these towering, multicolored cliffs looming over us. We disembark and begin the steep climb on foot via the winding mule path up to the village of Fira, the capital perched above the cliff. Though it’s still very early, we head to the youth hostel. There wasn’t a soul in the alleys that morning—or rather, there were only cats! I have a fond memory of that encounter with Santorini: a sensory shock, a breathtaking volcanic site, a harmony of blue, ochre-red, and white. A welcoming island, as it was traditional to welcome the xénou, an island that hadn’t yet fully recovered from the terrible 1956 earthquake, a Cycladic architectural marvel where local life was still preserved.

It’s easy to see why, in antiquity, the island was named Kallisté (καλλίστη), “the most beautiful,” as it’s nearly impossible to resist gazing at this landscape shaped by tectonic forces. Indeed, a massive volcanic cataclysm—the Minoan eruption—shaped this scenery in the 17th century BCE, creating a caldera that was quickly filled by the sea. The enormous tsunamis that followed reached Crete, leading to the disappearance of the Minoan civilization.

A cliffside path along the caldera leads us to the peaceful village of Oia, at the northern tip of the island. Blue-domed churches and flower-filled villages with whitewashed houses line the way. This walk is a continuous marvel, offering splendid views of the caldera and the neighboring islands formed by the breakup of the ancient volcano (Thirissa, Nea Kameni). Oia is a large, picturesque village, like Fira perched on the cliff’s edge, which was severely damaged by the 1956 earthquake, and its scars are still visible. Its cave-like houses with vaulted roofs haven’t yet been turned into luxury hotels or shops. Absolute tranquility reigns here.

Oia in 1967—a peaceful village overlooking the caldera. But where are the pools and trendy bars?

A lush countryside covered in olive trees and vineyards welcomes us for a pleasant hike, interrupted by the kindness of a friendly islander who gives us a lift in his truck for a few kilometers. He’s off to harvest his tomatoes, which he grows at the foot of Pyrgos Hill. The delicious little cherry tomato of Santorini earned an EU Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) in 2013. We climb up to the village of Pyrgos, perched on a hill and dominated by the elegant bell tower of its church. Finally, we reach the black sand beach of Kamari on the island’s eastern coast to enjoy a swim.

{...} To be continued





°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°

RAIVAVAE (French Polynesia)



November 15, 2007

Éléonore from Pension Tama welcomes us with traditional flower leis, as if she’d been waiting for old friends she hadn’t seen in ages. The small airport terminal is lively, the atmosphere warm—people hugging, rejoicing in reunions, all under kilos of flowers. Then, just as quickly, the place empties until the next flight... in a few days.



In the Austral Islands, a ninety-minute flight from Tahiti, Raivavae is a world away from the frenetic pace of Papeete or the tourist crowds of the Leeward Islands. The true paradise of the South Seas can still be savored here—it’s a bit like Bora Bora half a century ago. Our first feeling upon arriving on this island is wonder, with smiles that could melt even the gloomiest among us, landscapes so stunning they take your breath away, and above all, a sense of disorientation and fulfillment. Picture a mountainous island, about ten kilometers by three and a half, encircled by a coral reef and wild motu, cradling a lagoon with shades of blue that would make Bora Bora green with envy.

The roughly one thousand inhabitants of Raivavae are spread across four villages around the island. Children are everywhere, as is typical in Polynesia, and they greet you with open, genuine smiles. Here, ancestral values have survived progress. The predominantly Protestant population is very devout, as evidenced by the several temples built across the island. Religious fervor sets the rhythm of daily life. Sundays are reserved for worship and Sunday school (catechism). Work is forbidden on that day, and tourist activities are suspended. These rules are strict and respected.

Hat contest for the worship celebration

Yet a sense of resignation is ever-present. The people of Raivavae know they are—and will remain—isolated. Despite the construction of an airstrip in 2004 and a few weekly flights to Tahiti and its nearest neighbor, Tubuai (200 km away), the island remains on the fringes of the world. One painful aspect is the separation of children from their parents when they leave for middle school in Tubuai starting in fifth grade. Television brings daily images of a world the islanders will likely never know, but one they often aspire to.

We are privileged. We have the pristine white-sand beaches of the motu and some of the most beautiful bays in Polynesia all to ourselves. The jewel in the crown, the island’s emblematic spot, is the “motu-pool,” about twenty minutes by boat. A natural, exquisite basin with crystal-clear water, gradients of blue, and white sand. And best of all, there’s almost no one there. In fact, lounging on the beach is frowned upon, especially for young women. Religion looks very unfavorably on sunbathing and lazing around. And yet, everything here leans toward that philosophy of life.



The "motu-pool"

{...} To be continued