I invite you to share our wonderful discovery of Saint-Louis and its surroundings: Djoudj Park and the Langue de Barbarie... Daily life, heritage, landscapes, and wildlife (birds)...
We stayed in Senegal for 10 days in April/May 2018, specifically in Saint-Louis, Senegal, since we were there for the Jazz Festival held every year. But we took the opportunity to explore this country we didn’t know!
In this travel journal, you’ll find:
- A short stop in Gorée, which we visited before heading to Saint-Louis
- The different faces of Saint-Louis, especially the vibrant fishermen’s district
- Djoudj Park, with its many birds
- The Langue de Barbarie
... and much more!
Before going to Senegal, I did some research on this forum and others. So many strong opinions about Senegal—you either love it or hate it! If it hadn’t been for the festival, we might not have gone... What a shame that would’ve been, because we loved it!
Of course, I saw poverty, idleness, and litter, especially plastic bags—a global scourge. A bit of harassment from street vendors, especially at first when you don’t know how to deflect it and accidentally encourage it. The privileges of a social class and inequalities, though that’s something you encounter in many poor countries, not just in Africa.
But when I close my eyes and remember our trip, what stays with me is the youth, the beauty of so many boys and girls, the elegance of the women, and the sparkle in their eyes and smiles. The light and colors, the smell of grilled fish, the taste of freshly roasted peanuts and baobab fruit. The honking horns, the call of the muezzins, the music, the bursts of laughter.
Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.
It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected.
Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel.
I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability.
So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.
I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:
Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras
Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya
Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat
Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott
Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou
To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog:
From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations
I’m starting to plan a motorcycle trip from Marrakech to Dakar for September 2027.
The idea is to cross southern Morocco, then Mauritania, and finally Senegal all the way to Dakar, taking the time to explore the regions we pass through.
I’m especially looking for advice and feedback from people who’ve already done all or part of this route: recommended itinerary, road and track conditions, border crossings, formalities, safety, fuel, accommodations, must-see stops, things to avoid, etc.
I’d also love to hear your thoughts on traveling in September for this trip.
If any motorcyclists want to join the adventure, that’d be great! The idea is to form a small group, each covering their own expenses, and plan the trip together.
All your tips, experiences, and good addresses are welcome!
So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up:
"If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.
To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.
This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.
The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka.
Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.
As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.
I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for the first time at the end of February as a group of four, and we’re eager to make the most of our 7 days. So, not much (if any) downtime—just a heads-up! ;)
For such a short trip, we’ve had to make some tough choices. We’ve decided to skip Lompoul due to the 24/7 noise and light pollution from the mine. Casamance is too far for this time around. We love animals and birds (and it seems late February/early March is still a good time to spot migratory birds). We’re planning to rent a car.
Putting all these factors together, here’s the rough itinerary we’ve come up with:
- Day 1: Dakar, Gorée
- Day 2: Kayar, Saint-Louis, Lac de Barbarie
- Day 3: Makhana, Djoudj Bird Sanctuary, Lac de Barbarie
- Day 4: Drive to Somone
- Day 5: Bandia, Somone
- Day 6: Saloum Delta
- Day 7: Saloum Delta
- Day 8: Return to Dakar Airport
What do you think?
How much extra does it cost, roughly, to hire a guide compared to just renting a car on our own?
Thanks so much for your insights—we really appreciate it!
Christophe
First of all, thank you for accepting us into the group. 😊
My name is Gérard, I’m a 77-year-old retiree, and I have a charming young wife of 70 and a sweet little Biewer dog celebrating his first birthday. 🎂🎉
The three of us are planning to leave from Cannes in our motorhome and head to Dakar.
Personally, I know this route very well, having done it three times in a 4x4, the last trip being in 2016.
Regarding Western Sahara, I know it’s not particularly recommended to cross it right now, but I haven’t heard any bad news about it yet.
As for crossing the "no man’s land," I remember it being a very difficult track, impassable with a motorhome. I’ve heard that they’ve recently improved the track and that it might now be possible to cross those 4 km with a motorhome (?)
Actually, I’m reaching out to experienced travelers who could give me their thoughts on crossing at the end of 2025. 🙏
By the way, if other motorhome travelers have the same plan, maybe we could discuss it together? 🤝
As for Mauritania, I know it’s a long stretch of tarmac, and from what I remember—aside from the "Gare du Nord" stop to refuel and enjoy a good tea—you have to switch to "survival mode."
That’s all for my little chat! I hope to gather some useful information.
Thank you all for taking the time to read this, and I wish you a great 14th of July.
Hello fellow travelers,
I've made the France-Benin trip several times via the Mali "Route de l'Espoir," and the last journey was pretty tense—2013, 🥵🔥 military convoys and all the chaos in Mali from the border to Bamako. 😅
So, I’m planning to take the route again but this time via Senegal and Côte d'Ivoire, with a good old J9 (the mayor’s vehicles I used to travel in… 😎. Though the Mercedes 308 wasn’t bad either).
Has anyone done this recently?
A friend of mine did it 4 years ago, but things can change pretty quickly.
If you’d like to share your latest experiences, I’m all ears! 😊 Have a great weekend! 👋
The tours offered by tour operators in France don't work for me, except for TUI—its 15-day itinerary is great but too expensive for my budget.
I’m planning to travel with my sister in March or April 2025 and would love to find a local agency that offers tours, even in small groups. Thanks for your suggestions!
Tanya6675
We’re planning to drive to Senegal by car. We’re a little nervous because it’ll be our first time making the trip with a car that isn’t ours.
We’re doing the trip to deliver it to its owner.
Has anyone here done this before?
What documents will we need?
Hi everyone,
I’m 66 and just discovered solo travel in Uzbekistan—I loved it! So I’ve decided to explore Africa, starting with Senegal. I’m just beginning my research, but if anyone can give me advice on which month to go, what to see, and whether this destination is safe—or maybe suggest another African country—I’d really appreciate your tips!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Hi everyone, I’d like to travel to Senegal with my two dogs—an Amstaff and a French Bulldog (who can’t fly). I’m wondering if you think it’ll be complicated or if the formalities are easy to sort out.
I’m giving myself a year to prepare for this trip.
Hi everyone : WARNING!!!! driver-guide in SENEGAL
I’m posting this just to warn you about this person: Jean Marie DIOUF
Here’s his Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61552651919372&sk=reviews
He advertises himself as a cheap driver-guide at first, then raises the price but asks you to send a deposit for a so-called reservation of your dates. To gain your trust, he puts his so-called French wife on the phone with you.
In the end, you won’t see your money again!!!!
Please share this 😡
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there, we're in Faranelli, Gambia.
We're at Tandem and only have 7 days left on our passports.
Can you tell us if we can leave the country via the east?
From the town of Basse Santa Su to Velingara in Senegal. There seems to be a road, but is it a border post? I can't find an answer...
Thanks so much in advance!
Claude & Liliane
Hi there,
I’m heading to Senegal in January for a month and was wondering if I just need my French driver’s license or if I should get an international permit?
Thanks!
JL
Hi, after a flight delayed by more than 24 hours, can I file a compensation claim with the airline (where they told me they’re in financial trouble!) and at the same time with a specialized compensation claim website?
Wednesday, March 4 – Friday, March 6 — Sine-Saloum
Drive to Toubacouta via the Trans-Gambian Highway (Gambia)
Stay with a local host / camp on the bolongs
Activities: pirogue ride in the delta, Serer villages, biking, handicraft discovery
Overnights: Sine-Saloum (3 nights)
Saturday, March 7 – Sunday, March 8 — Petite Côte
Drive to Somone / Ngaparou (~3 hours)
Stay with a local host
Activities: beach, safari at Bandia Reserve, kayaking on the lagoon, craft market
Overnights: Petite Côte (2 nights, including Sunday, March 8, to enjoy the full day before the nighttime departure)
Monday, March 9 — Departure
Transfer to Blaise Diagne International Airport (~45 minutes)
Flight leaves at 2:00 AM
I’ve got a few questions:
- Is an afternoon on Gorée Island worth it? I really want to go, but the ferry departure days are a bit limiting.
- How easy is it to get around between these different stops? Can we find a taxi that fits all five of us?
- Do you have any accommodation recommendations? I’d love to stay with locals as much as possible—we’re not looking for luxury, just a bed and a shower.
- February 28 is my birthday, and I’d love to do something “special”: any ideas for a nice place to stay, a great restaurant, or an out-of-the-ordinary activity? We’ll be around Cap Skirring.
- Does this itinerary seem coherent? I really want to visit Casamance, and we’d prefer to stay no more than 3 nights in the same place.
Don’t hesitate to share your tips! Thanks so much!
hi everyone.
I usually exchange money at a bank in the city in every country, but this time I was being picked up by my guide, so I did it as quickly as possible and didn’t check my receipt.
I don’t remember the exact amount the cashier scammed me out of, but it was significant when I recounted everything later.
Two hours later, when my guide still hadn’t shown up, I ran into the police—a kind woman I explained the situation to—but it was too late because the cashier had already been replaced.
Be careful and don’t do what I did.
Check everything in front of them because afterward, it’s too late 😅
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal at the end of March/beginning of April. I’d love to know if the ocean is warm.
Thanks in advance for your replies
Hi there,
Double rooms, nice and cheap (21 € per night) for rent about 5 minutes by car from Cap Skirring in a very quiet location.
Private shower and toilet. Kettle included.
Pool available!
About a 10/15-minute walk to the beach.
Shops and restaurants nearby.
The manager is a former trekking guide in the Himalayas and will be happy to share his travel experiences with you. His Casamance-born wife can help make your stay easier and put you in touch with people based on your needs.
They can arrange airport/lodging transfers for 5 €.
DM for more info.