Posts by Partirester

Good evening, I’ve never crossed the Mauritania-Senegal border myself, but so many friends have done it that I’ve heard plenty of feedback. Back in 2012, I tried to cross at Rosso. I got "cornered" by some guys and a huge crowd of onlookers, so I turned back. It’s better to cross with a Mauritanian or Senegalese "friend."

From what all my friends say, Diama is easier to cross—unless there’s mud (which happened last year; an English guy I met in Nouakchott left his vehicle stuck in the mud, and months later, it was still there).

If you arrive too late, you’ll have to spend the night near the border post.

For French travelers, you’ll need an ATA carnet. If you don’t have one, getting a temporary pass can cost a bit. More info here: https://senegalcommerce.sec.gouv.sn/Documents/DGD/Proc%C3%A9dure/A%20l%27entr%C3%A9e%20au%20S%C3%A9n%C3%A9gal.PDF

You’ll find tons of videos on YouTube— here are a couple of examples: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXwCtc3y7M4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXnCSkXqf7U

I don’t know about requirements for Moroccan travelers.

Hi Khalid,

Thanks for your reply—it’s rare for forum members to say thank you! I’m curious to know what type of motorcycle you’re using. Yes, it’s definitely a good idea to have a van for support and extra fuel reserves, especially since Morocco won’t let you through with full jerry cans. I’d recommend bringing some fuel additive—I’ve had a few surprises in Mauritania that weren’t great for the engines. Don’t forget a compressor in case you’re tempted to ride on some sand!

Regarding Banc d’Arguin, if you have a van and it’s not 4x4, take the access via NOUAMGHAR—the road is paved (though rough, haha) and gives you a first glimpse of part of the park. You might be able to sleep in Nouamghar, but note that entry to PNBA is paid (sorry, I’ve never paid because I help with medical caravans for sick children in Mauritania—but it’s not expensive). Here’s the link: https://pnba.mr/nous-visiter/ For sleeping in Nouamghar’s camp: +222 46 40 78 99 If you have any issues, contact NAMI SALIHY, my friend and the PNBA director: +222 36 30 26 77. Mention my name, and with luck, you might even spend the night in the bird observation hut—but it’s very basic, so bring a sleeping bag and cooking gear (stove, etc.).

The road to Atar should be fine for you, unless there’s a flooded ford—but in NOVEMBER, no worries. Rain is rare at that time (unless it’s an exception). You could do the loop Atar–Tidjikja–Rosso, with a stop at Tidjikja’s *Auberge Caravane du Désert* at Cheikh’s place. Here’s the link: https://www.espacevoyages-mr.com/auberge I’ve never stayed there myself since I usually stay with friends in the area.

Another detail: You can now reach Atar via a new paved road that branches off the national highway a few kilometers before or after the PNBA buildings, avoiding Nouakchott entirely. The road leads to AKJOUJT. They’ve started resurfacing a section between Akjoujt and Atar—maybe you’ll get lucky if the pavement holds for a year!

If you love the desert, consider pushing on to Zouerate—it’s interesting, especially since the road has been paved for a few years. You’ll get a closer look at the iron mine dust, but it’s a round trip since after Zouerate, you can only go to Bir Moghreim and Algeria.

From Nouadhibou, don’t hesitate to take a detour to Cansado (the village for SNIM iron ore workers) and Cap Blanc. For Cap Blanc, you’ll need to deflate your tires—there are sandy patches, and the track isn’t well-marked.

Also worth seeing in Nouadhibou: *Baie de l’Étoile* and *Baie du Lévrier*, though everything’s now concreted over—the wild, natural side has disappeared. You can stay at the fishing camp (rooms and a restaurant) for a true Mauritanian welcome. I won’t plug the neighboring place run by a European.

Good luck with your preparations! If you need backup, I’d happily hitch a ride in the van. You won’t feel too out of place—there are plenty of Moroccan grocery stores and restaurants in Nouadhibou and Nouakchott.

Best, Christine

Good evening Khalid,

Having made the France-Mauritania route over thirty times, the last one just last year, I can give you one piece of advice: September is the rainy season in Mauritania and Senegal. This means sometimes a lot of rain and road sections or fords underwater, or even parts of the road cut off or damaged (the tarmac in Mauritania is something else, haha). For the itinerary, it depends on whether you take the only road connecting Morocco to Mauritania or if you plan to go off-road. From Mauritania, two options from Nouakchott: either crossing via the Rosso ferry, which many travelers will advise against, or via Diama, which I’d advise against in September due to the risk of muddy tracks and a lot of mud—so it’ll be very tough physically. The best would be to wait until the end of September. This year, Nouakchott was completely flooded... As for Senegal, no idea—I hope you’ll get some answers. The border crossing is very simple: formalities, possibly an inspection of your panniers, but above all, bring plenty of photocopies of your passport for the trip through Mauritania. (I’d love to come as a passenger...) Normally, there’s no problem with fuel supply in Mauritania, unless you plan to take tracks (like the one along the railway line). Are you planning to visit the country or head straight to Dakar? For accommodation, there aren’t many options in Nouadhibou—it depends on what you’re looking for. The *Camping du Lévrier* in the city center has cheap rooms, is close to shops, and is protected by walls and a gate. You’ll find other accommodation options that are a bit more expensive or farther from shops if you need more info—I’m happy to help. In Nouakchott, it’s the same: plenty of accommodation, especially in the Tevragh Zeina district near the embassies. Again, if you need details, I’m here. After that, I don’t know much, since I’ve always been hosted by my Mauritanian friends, at least throughout the country. But if you pass through Atar, I recommend staying with Sid Ahmed at *Camping Imini* (he has a few rooms too). If you’re heading to the Banc d’Arguin, bring extra fuel cans... (I’m guessing your tank doesn’t hold more than 20 liters? I’m thinking of a Honda Tenere 700, which only carries 16 liters). I’m sending you a video of a guy who recently did Dakar-Tangier by motorcycle—at least you’ll have his feedback... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzg4lq9D1E4 Best regards, Christine

hi Laurence, yes, Dakhla is touristy—I’m not excluding the kite surfers... did you know that thousands of Europeans spend their winters there and that Morocco has made it a favorite destination for years? The advertising has really taken off, especially since the new road was built... here’s the proof: https://www.biladi.ma/tourisme-a-dakhla-les-nuitees-progressent-trois-fois-plus-vite-que-la-moyenne-nationale/ So yes, it’s possible our guidebooks haven’t caught up yet, and that most lovers of the region avoid turning it into an overcrowded hotspot—because crowds mean pollution... You shouldn’t ignore that Morocco has called on investors... France is setting up shop there: https://lopinion.ma/fr/regions/sahara/dakhla--des-elus-francais-explorent-les-opportunites-dinvestissement_a75954?articleId=2e129e8d-8d43-43d7-920b-a22d3d163061 https://fr.le360.ma/politique/a-dakhla-une-delegation-de-jeunes-elus-francais-decouvre-les-grands-projets-de-developpement-de-la_I6RP3UWDNNFRJFGAO7BAEJPJ5Q/ https://ledesk.ma/enoff/raccordement-de-dakhla-au-reseau-national-edf-en-charge-de-letude/ And the new port is going to attract even more people: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCgYJPcw2Oo plus, the charming little fishing village is now overrun by kite surfers: https://fun-and-fly.com/spot/dakhla-lassarga/ That won’t stop you from enjoying the sunrises and sunsets over the Sahara and the Atlantic... Or making a thousand connections—with locals or fellow travelers. Yes, I know Dakhla well—I’ve spent quite a bit of time there and even worked with disabled children... A big thank-you if you buy my book! Lots of Mauritanians have family in Dakhla... I can’t say there are "cultural sites" to visit—who knows, maybe one day... If the oasis gardens are still there, check them out; they’re probably hidden behind the big tomato-greenhouse farms... Go before paradise disappears!! Happy travels!!!!

hi Pierre, I’ll point you toward a resource for your search: https://www.agirabcd.eu/776_p_57317/missions-dans-le-monde.html If you don’t find what you’re looking for and you’d like to help in Mauritania, I can put you in touch with two schools in Nouakchott that would probably be thrilled to have you... Best regards,

hi Anne Taking the train, walking, or the metro to get off the beaten path from Barcelona isn’t something I’ve thought much about, maybe the Pedralbes Monastery? https://barcelonesite.fr/monasteriodepedralbes.html If you can, take the train to Girona— it’s a gorgeous city!! The old quarter is stunning. It only takes 58 minutes by train from Barcelona. https://www.thetrainline.com/fr/horaires-train/barcelone-a-girona