Posts by Pat17

Yeah, January is usually a good time weather-wise. Even the locals were surprised by how nice it was. The boat crossings were suspended for 4 days the day after we arrived—the sea was far from calm. If you’ve got a sensitive stomach, think twice! 🤢😅

Wednesday, January 22 The rain started around 4 AM this morning and won’t let up until 4 PM. We’re staying in the bungalow—reading. Packing our bags because tomorrow, we’re heading back to France.

Thursday, January 23 We left the hotel in the morning under bright sunshine. We reached the coast, the sea was very calm, the sun was shining, and it was really hot… Ugh!!!! We went to Calibishie, wandered around the village, then had lunch at the Rainbow Restaurant: (grilled red snapper, assorted vegetables cooked in banana leaves). After that, we headed to the airport, returned the car—no issues. At 6:15 PM, we boarded the plane to PAP (Port-au-Prince), arriving at 6:45 PM. At 8:45 PM, we took off again for Paris Orly—overnight flight.

Friday, January 24 We arrived at 9:50 AM. After collecting our luggage, we took the shuttle to Parcorly to pick up our car—it was about 4°C (we’d lost around 25°C). We hit the road for the trip back. It’s the end of a great trip, even if the weather wasn’t on our side.

What I think of Dominica + : Few tourists, except in the towns, but we were often almost alone on our walks. The kindness of the locals who tried to help us. Lots of hiking trails, waterfalls, and rivers. - : Rainy weather, very few signs for attractions (no signs or road markers), few restaurants or street food vendors, no markets except in Roseau and Portsmouth. Still recovering from the 2017 hurricane: lots of ongoing repairs, forests still damaged, roads closed, businesses shut down.

Sunset Bay Club: Well-located on the Caribbean coast, very clean bungalows, daily housekeeping, right by the sea with a small beach and snorkeling opportunities. Some hurricane damage remains (pool and spa not functional). King-size bed, firm mattress Free parking Friendly staff Very hearty and delicious breakfast Restaurant: excellent food Still some lingering damage from the 2017 hurricane, and the beach is getting smaller. Luckily, there were few vacationers (just 8 people). Pool and spa closed.

Citrus Creek Plantation A house, very comfortable, well-equipped kitchen, 2 bedrooms with private bathrooms Standard bed, soft spring mattress Free parking No housekeeping, bread and pancakes or brioche delivered the night before for breakfast. Direct and private river access for swimming Hammock and lounge chairs. Lovely, peaceful setting—private river access is a big plus.

Hibiscus Valley Inn Rustic bungalow but set in a beautiful garden, housekeeping every 3 days King-size bed, firm mattress Small parking lot (max 4 cars) but more spaces available nearby River access for swimming Hammock, no Wi-Fi in the bungalows Very hearty, delicious, and varied breakfasts Restaurant: one main dish and one dessert



















That’s the end of my story—I hope it helps anyone looking to explore this beautiful island. Thanks to those who read it!

Tuesday, January 21 We hit the road for the northern loop. We take the crossroad to Porthmouth, then head up to Guillet and take the road along the Morne au Diable volcano crater. Stop at Cold Soufrière. Then some photo stops along the coast, which is still just as beautiful. We have lunch in Thibaud at a little shack run by an elderly lady. Sitting on a plank, facing the raging sea, we eat grilled chicken. Next, we head to Batibou Beach. We leave the car by the side of the road and walk down (15 min). The entrance is paid: a beautiful white sand beach with coconut trees. When we arrive, big waves—we still go for a swim but make sure not to stray too far from the shore. But the sky clouds over, and the rain starts, cutting our beach time short. Very few people at what’s considered Dominica’s most beautiful beach.

Morne au Diable



North coast between Pennville and Thibaud







Batibou Bay

Monday, January 19: continuation and end After lunch, a walk to Red Rocks: a lovely stroll with beautiful color contrasts—red rocks, white (salt), and the blue of the water. All under a bright sun. Returned at 5 PM, took a dip in the river. Aperitif and dinner at the hotel restaurant.

Monday, January 19, continued... We visit the Kalinago village, which is more like an eco-museum: it traces the life of the Kalinagos, their culture, their crafts... The Kalinagos are the original name for those whom Europeans called the "Carib Indians." In 1903, after years of fierce struggle between the British colonial forces and the Kalinagos, the Crown agreed to grant them lands where they would be sovereign. The Kalinago Territory has a special status within Dominica, with a community-based system, particularly for land ownership. We follow the coast to Pagua Bay and then head to our accommodation by the river. We rented a bungalow: octagonal in shape, all wood, nestled in the vegetation, with two adjoining rooms. We set off again in search of a restaurant. We go to Marigot and stop to eat at Tickle’s Restaurant & Bar on the port. It feels more like a canteen, but the food is good—we’ll be back. We continue exploring the coast. Still stunning viewpoints: Calibishie, Hampstead...

Monday, January 19 We left Citrus Creek for Marigot and headed to Hibiscus Valley Inn. We stopped in Salybia: the church, the cemetery, the sea still raging...

Sunday, January 19 Woke up to sunshine. We headed to Castle Bruce, then followed the coast south to Petite Soufrière, passing through Good Hope and St Sauveur. Lunch at Islet View (plantain chips, caramelized chicken platter with veggies, fruit plate) with a stunning coastal view. PM: swimming in our river-spa, reading. Dinner at the lodge’s restaurant. Last night here—tomorrow we head back north.







St Sauveur

Saturday, January 18 Heading to Glassy Pool: sea pools, three hollows in the rock at sea level, filled by ocean waves. Only one access path. (Easy without a guide) After a nice 45-minute descent through the rainforest, we reach the ocean’s edge. It starts raining, but we came here to swim, so we put on our swimsuits and take a dip. The rain gets heavier, so we decide to head back up. We get caught in a big storm. The climb back is calm, and we return home to shower and dry off. Then we set out to find a restaurant. We’ll have lunch at Plaine chez Antone (chicken, macaroni, salad). It’s pretty hard to find a place to eat. We pick up a few groceries for tonight. AM: rain, overcast—so we read.

Friday, January 17 Heading to Victoria Falls (a 53m-high waterfall). Stop at Pointe Giraud on the coast. We park the car and head down toward Victoria Falls. Along the way, a man approaches us to guide us to the waterfalls (there are no signs, and we have to cross the river several times). We accept his help. The walk is beautiful: we cross the river five times, with a strong current. We never could’ve made it on our own. A few tricky spots, especially since we have cameras and backpacks. We get almost to the base of the falls but don’t go further because we’d have to climb slippery boulders, and we didn’t bring a waterproof bag for the cameras—bummer. Still, we take a dip in a river pool. Then we retrace our steps. A great 2-hour hike. (Wear shoes that stay on your feet and can handle water.) We stop for lunch at a cool spot called « Barrack » in Delices. (Pork stew with plantains.) We can’t continue along the coast further via Petite Savane Road because it’s been closed for four years after massive floods washed away a village, killing several people. Still, the views of the rocky coast are stunning. We head back to the lodge by 2 p.m. PM swim-reading-games. After drinks, we have dinner at the lodge’s restaurant.





Victoria Falls



Delices

Wednesday, January 15 Heading to Titou Gorge. We put on our life jackets, step into the cold river water, and off we go for a 10-minute swim through a dark gorge to a waterfall: a really cool dip. There were a few more people, but it stayed very manageable. Titou Gorge was the filming location for one of the scenes in Pirates of the Caribbean 2. You can only explore it by swimming. Next, we went to Freshwater Lake, but it was foggy and raining: we didn’t see much and couldn’t walk around the lake. We tried to go to Boeri Lake, but same story. So we headed to Roseau, took a little stroll through the town, and had lunch at Guiyage Restaurant. We visited the villages of St. Joseph and Mero on the coast. The sun came back out: swimming, reading. Dinner at Kashma’s little bar-restaurant. Then we packed our bags because tomorrow we’re heading to the Atlantic coast. Entrance to Titou Gorge Toward Boeri Lake St. Joseph



Thursday, January 16 We set off for the east side of the island. Stopped for photos in Rosalie—church and coastline. We arrived at Citrus Creek in La Plaine. A French woman greeted us. Since we were a bit early, we toured the estate: a beautiful, flower-filled property bordered by a river. We rented a house with two bedrooms and private access right to the river. It’s going to be great here. It was really hot, so we went for a swim: a few pools with a current—it felt like a spa, a water massage. Pure bliss, even if the water was cold. We went to the village to do some shopping since we have a kitchen. The small grocery stores weren’t very well stocked. In the afternoon, we took a walk along the coast: no sandy beaches, just pebbles and a rough sea with big waves—swimming would be dangerous. On the way back, we swam in the river again, in our "private spa"! La Plaine Citrus Creek Plantation

Tuesday, January 14 Departure for Emerald Pool. Easy access trail. The waterfall flows into a pool, and depending on the weather, the color changes. The water is cold but no big deal—we make the most of it since there are very few people, and the setting is stunning. Too bad the sun isn’t out. Next, we head to Jaco Falls: entry is paid, the waterfall is beautiful, and it’s a quick visit since it’s close to the entrance. We leave under heavy rain, but that’ll be the only shower of the day. We reach the Atlantic coast via the scenic airport road. We go as far as Castle Bruce: gorgeous viewpoints, the coast is stunning, and the sea is wild. Swimming on the Atlantic side seems unlikely. No restaurants or stands. We eventually find a young woman selling grilled chicken, bread, and green apple juice. We have a picnic in a banana plantation. Back at the hotel by 4 PM. We enjoy the sun and our hotel’s beach. We go snorkeling (a few fish and some sea fans), then spend the evening reading by the sea until sunset. Dinner at the hotel restaurant. Emerald Pool





Emerald Pool Jaco Falls Castle Bruce

Monday, January 13 We set off for Spanny Falls, but the rough condition of the side road and the rain quickly put us off continuing. So we changed plans and took the road to the south of the island. Driving through Roseau was tough—streets were blocked because a cruise ship had just arrived, so there was a whole welcome fanfare going on. We stopped in Loubière to see the roadside cemetery, where the names of the deceased are written in charcoal on the tombs, and visited the church. We passed through Soufrière but decided to stop there on the way back. Fort Cachacrou on Scotts Head: a thin strip of land separates the tumultuous Atlantic Ocean from the calm Caribbean Sea. We climbed up Scotts Head and then swam in Soufrière Bay—just a few fish and some coral. Lunch at Wen’s, right by the beach. We watched pelicans diving. We visited Soufrière’s church, then decided to head to Soufrière Sulfur Spring. But since there were no signs, we asked for directions from André, a Rasta. With his help, we set off again and arrived at a parking lot—but how far was it? Could we swim? No signs, and the info hut was closed. We turned back. When André saw us, he realized we hadn’t made it, so he hopped in the car to guide us. He showed us the way along the riverbank and left us. After a short climb, we reached a small hot sulfur pool (fed by a pipe) where we soaked. It felt amazing—just what we needed under the blazing sun. There were only the four of us. Next, we headed to Champagne Reef, where bubbles rise from the seabed. After asking around, we went to the end of the beach, grabbed our snorkeling gear, and got in the water. We saw fish and, after a bit of searching, finally spotted the famous bubbles. We splashed around for a good half-hour, loving every minute.

Loubière church Loubière cemetery

Scotts Head Soufrière Fort Cachacrou Scotts Head

Sulfur Spring Champagne Reef

Sunday, January 12 Departure for the Syndicate Nature Trail, on Morne Diablotin. After a narrow road, we reach the end of the path. A few more showers. We start the trail, but the bridges collapsed after Hurricane Maria haven’t been rebuilt. We go around the first one, but at the second, we give up: we don’t know how many there are. The weather is uncertain, the ground slippery, and we’re alone. Still, the forest is magnificent, with beautiful trees, and we spot two sisserous (the island’s emblematic parrots). We head back and try to go to Milton Falls: we give up due to the narrow, poorly maintained path, and there’s no indication of how far it is or anyone to show us the way. So we return to Portsmouth to do the Indian River. Raymond (who approached us two days ago) is waiting for us. 50 EC$/person (no tax since we have the pass). We set off by boat, Raymond rows—it’s tough with all the wind. The sun is shining and beating down. Photo stop at the hut used for filming *Pirates of the Caribbean*. A lovely stroll along the river, through the mangrove. We have a drink at the end of the walk. Chat with Raymond about life in Dominica, politics (elections were held in early December 2019 with some incidents), and hurricanes (2017, 2015) that left their mark (devastated homes, destroyed bridges, damaged roads, topped trees). While we talk, he weaves a bird and a fish from a leaf. He’s bitter about relationships between people and the way tourists are targeted. We go for lunch at Purple Turtle Beach: chicken with a variety of vegetables. We follow the coast north to the end of the road: Toucari, Clifton, Capucin. Return under pouring rain at 4:30 PM.

Syndicate Nature Trail Indian River



Toucari

Saturday, January 11 Rainy night. Departure at 9 AM for Roseau, the capital. Visit to the market, but a heavy downpour hits—we won’t get to enjoy it. Once the sun comes out, we stroll along the waterfront and wander the streets to reach the botanical garden. We hike up to the Morne Bruce viewpoint via the trail path, where we get a view of the city. We take the road back down. We stop for lunch at a local restaurant and try *palau* (fried rice with chicken). Then we head to Trafalgar Falls: twin waterfalls (60 meters high). They’re called "twins" for the Father and the Mother. Heavy showers, beautiful clearings—we reach the waterfalls in 10 minutes via a well-marked trail. Next, we visit Wotten Waven Sulphur Springs: sulfur hot springs. We go to Ti Kwen Glo Cho, which has 3 pools (different water temperatures) in a forested setting, plus a natural bathtub with a continuous flow of hot water. We head back by 4:30 PM. We find a small restaurant near the hotel where Kashma prepares fish and chicken with pasta for us. Gorgeous sunset.

Roseau

mural depicting the island’s discovery









Trafalgar Falls Wotten Waven Sulphur Springs

Hi everyone, I’m sharing my travel journal from Dominica (not to be confused with the Dominican Republic) in January 2020. We wanted to escape the rain, gloom, and cold of France—and we got *some* rain and storms, but also warmth!

DOMINICA A small Caribbean island of 754 km², located between Guadeloupe and Martinique, Dominica is part of the Commonwealth. Roseau is its capital. The locals speak English and Creole. The currency is the East Caribbean Dollar (EC$). In October 2019, we decided to visit this little paradise from January 9 to 24, 2020—14 nights on the island. We traveled as two couples. Flight booking with Air Caraïbes: Orly Terminal 4 to Pointe-à-Pitre by plane, then P-à-P to Roseau with L’Express des Îles (boat) for the outbound trip. Marigot to Pointe-à-Pitre to Orly (all by plane on the return). Air Caraïbes: navigAir: plane + shuttle + boat. They handle everything, even delays. A shuttle waits for us at the airport to take us to the boat.

Accommodation bookings: 7 nights on the Caribbean coast in Salisbury (Sunset Bay Club), 4 nights on the Atlantic coast in Taberi La Plaine (Citrus Creek Plantation), and 3 nights in Marigot (Hibiscus Valley Inn). Car rental booked (Courtesy Rental Car).

Thursday, January 9 8:00 AM: Orly Airport, baggage drop-off—we checked in 48 hours earlier. Scheduled takeoff at 11:10 AM. Arrival in P-à-P at 2:30 PM local time after a 7-hour, 50-minute flight. We collect our luggage, and a shuttle is waiting to take us to the dock for L’Express des Îles. We check in, and a big storm hits P-à-P. Scheduled departure at 5:00 PM for a 2-hour, 20-minute crossing. Lots of waves—many passengers got seasick during the trip. Arrival in Roseau at 7:30 PM. We go through customs. Some clementines to declare… which they confiscated! A taxi takes us to the car rental: Courtesy. The ride is covered by the rental company. We get an automatic. You need a special permit to drive in Dominica (12 €, issued by the rental company). And remember—driving is on the left! It’s dark, and we have a good hour’s drive to reach our hotel. First intersection, headlights coming toward us, honking… we’re on the wrong side—driving on the left, remember? Most roads are in poor condition, narrow, with few signs and little to no street lighting. The island was hit by Tropical Storm Erika in 2015 and Hurricane Maria in September 2017, causing major damage. We finally arrive in Coulibistrie at Sunset Bay Club at 9:30 PM. The owner welcomes us, warms up some bread and cheese, and offers us four beers. We have pâté, sausage, and chips—we have a little picnic on the terrace of our bungalow. We have two adjoining rooms. It’s 11:00 PM when we go to bed… and it’s raining.

Friday, January 10 After a hearty breakfast (French toast or pancakes, jams, fresh juice, coffee or tea, eggs-bacon-cheese, bread, fresh fruit), the sun and rain take turns freely. We head north. Colihaut: a short walk through the village—we’re the only tourists. Portsmouth: lunch on Purple Turtle Beach at Sea Bird Bar and Grill (grilled fish, fries, salad, and the local beer: Kubuli). Then we visit Fort Shirley, part of Cabrits National Park. We do the yellow trail and part of the blue one. We buy a week-long pass, useful for some visits (no entry fee). On the way back, we stop at the market to buy some fruit. We arrive at Sunset in time to watch the sunset over the Caribbean Sea. All day, showers and sunshine.

Sunset at Sunset Sunset Beach Colihaut Colihaut





Fort Shirley

Bonjour, je serai à Casablanca vendredi 26 mars est-il possible de visiter la mosquée Hassan II l'après midi et si oui à quelle heure est la visite ? j'ai lu que c'était fermé car c'est un vendredi, j'ai lu que c'était ouvert avec visite à 15h, ou 16h...j'ai envoyé un mail sur le site de la mosquée mais pas de réponse. donc si quelqu'un a une réponse fiable, merci de me la communiquer.

bonjour tout d'abord merci à ceux et celles qui ont répondu à mes questions avant de partir pour le Cap Vert, qui m'ont aidés à organiser mon voyage. petit résumé de mon merveilleux séjour du 10 au 27 novembre avion : Orly-Lisbonne-Sao Vicente ( compagnieTAP : aucun problème, valises à l'arrivée malgré une escale de 24h à Lisbonne au départ, afin d'avoir un aperçu de cette ville qu'on ne connaissait pas) Mindelo : 2 nuits (Lazareto) : randonnées sur Sao Vicente : phare de San Pedro, visite de Mindelo puis Santo Antao : Ponta do Sol (residencia trilhas & montanas) : 5 nuits : rando N°205,212,102,204, Porto Novo (gîte Cap Azul) : 6 nuits : rando : N°106, 992 (canyon ribeira das patas),110 une journée quad de Porto Novo à Cha de Norte, en passant par Alta Mira. Des paysages splendides, variés, sans cesse renouvelés. Chaque vallée a son charme, sa diversité dans sa végétation, ses couleurs. très peu de monde rencontré lors de nos randonnées. Sur certaines rando, on était seuls. Les habitants sont très gentils, très souriants, serviables malgré la barrières de la langue dans certains hameaux isolés. On reste ébahi par le travail accompli pour faire tous ces chemins pavés, (même s'ils commencent sérieusement à se détériorer dans certaines parties), par le système d'irrigation avec les levadas. (que l'on retrouve sur d'autres îles) Le temps a été incertain, couvert dans l'ensemble, mais pour randonner, ce n'est pas grave , et les 3 derniers jours de la pluie fine. Les transports : selon les horaires de fin de rando, les lieux de départ ou d'arrivée, il est difficile de trouver des aluguers, donc la plupart du temps, on prenait des taxis ce qui augmente le budget déplacement. La nourriture est bonne, poissons et crustacés avec des légumes, la catchupa : un régal, ça tient au corps!!!

voila brièvement, le résumé de nos belles vacances des vacances merveilleuses, des paysages inoubliables, de belles rencontres

Merci Marie pour ces précisions. À bientôt

bonjour nous partons au Cap Vert 2 semaines en novembre et nous voulons faire la rando côtière N°212 (nous serons hébergés à Ponta do sol) 3 questions : - dans quel sens est elle la plus facile ? de Ponta do Sol à Cha de Igreja ou l'inverse ? et selon le sens - peut on s'arrêter à Cruzhinas et trouver un aluger pour rentrer à Ponta do sol ou arriver en aluger à Cruzihnas et rentrer à pieds sur Ponta ou aller réellement jusqu'à Cha de Igreja -y a t'il des alugers régulièrement ou vaut il mieux prévoir un taxi je vous remercie pour vos réponses

merci Maud et Marie; mais avant de prévoir de nouveaux séjours au CV, je vais d'abord essayer de profiter de celui-là😉😉 merci pour vos conseils, vous pouvez même continuer à me faire rêver. et je ne manquerai pas de revenir vers vous