Posts by Wegg

Hi, You're right—there's no reason to make life complicated or spend money unnecessarily. It's better to buy those masts, which are inexpensive and lighter than trekking poles.

Thanks for this info.

In summary, the full system weighs 920 + 550, so 1,470 g for a total cost of 149.99 + 69.98, which comes to 219.97 € with a packed size of 30 x 10 cm for the shelter and about 10 x 36 cm for the poles.

Great weight-to-price ratio 🙂.

You could probably lighten it further and reduce the packed size by replacing the poles with masts made from carbon fiber tubes.

[...] two ultra-lightweight, foldable, and adjustable hiking poles (Decathlon) ...

Which ones?

I’d like to know the total weight of the tent and poles, as well as the folded length of the poles.

Wowwwww!!! I just saw the date of your question! I’m laughing my head off! Well, I hope it went well! Dying of laughter... Bye! Lucie

When you set off by bike, time doesn’t matter anymore...🙂

True, for riding days on end on this kind of surface, a telescopic fork can seem like a good solution for improving comfort.

Personally, I always prefer simplicity over technology. It’d be worth checking the literature to see if there are any user experiences or detailed comparative tests that highlight the pros and cons of a telescopic fork.

Hi there,

In the past, I had two Cannondale bikes equipped with a suspension system in the head tube: Adventure (my avatar) and Touring Ultra. I was initially won over by the concept and the benefits it was supposed to offer. However, in practice, I wasn’t convinced.

As a result, I think it’s better to fit wider tires if you need to ride on rough roads—or even use a stem with a suspension system.

Nowadays, I’m focusing on overall weight reduction to tackle positive elevation gains more comfortably, so I’ve opted for wider, more flexible tires and placed gel inserts under my handlebar tape to absorb vibrations.

I seem to recall that telescopic forks made a brief appearance a few years ago in Paris-Roubaix.

Split between two bikes, it’s still manageable, especially since the route you’re planning is flat.

Hi Didier,

As far as I’m concerned, over the years I’ve drastically reduced the number of things I take and, as a result, the weight.

The photo of my bike on my avatar is from 2010, and back then I was traveling with front and rear panniers, a handlebar bag, and an Ortlieb bag on the rack.

Here’s a photo of my bike loaded for a month-long trip in the summer of 2023:



The main thing is to just set off, knowing that the perfect setup doesn’t exist but telling yourself you’ll do better next time.

Every trip is an adventure...

Happy trails. 🙂

It all depends on the bike and its components, the panniers, the rack, the rider's weight, the route profile, and also the power each cyclist can generate alone or with the help of electric assistance for e-bikes.

It's such a vague question that there's no precise answer.

Generally, when you're new to bike touring, you tend to want to bring a bunch of things that seem essential, but experience shows you can easily do without most of them.

Gather everything you want to take, do a test load, and if it all fits in the panniers or on the racks, test yourself on a route near home that has the same characteristics as your planned destination.

I don’t know these panniers, but I have Ortlieb ones in Cordura High Visibility (front, rear, handlebar bag, and saddle bag), and I’m really happy with them. I’ve also used the Classic model in tarpaulin fabric, which worked great in terms of durability, waterproofing, and reliability.

In the past, I also had Vaude Aqua panniers, which suited me perfectly, though I ended up preferring the Ortliebs.

Recently, I bought Arkel Orca panniers, which, in my opinion, are absolutely perfect and super sturdy—the only downside is their price.

Hi, I built a bike for this kind of trip using a Fuji Touring frame equipped with a Shimano Deore 9-speed groupset, 36-spoke DT Swiss Alpin wheels, and Deore XTR hubs assembled by a craftsman. Originally, I wanted a Surly LHT, but it was impossible to find one with V-Brakes and 700c wheels.

Hi Guy,

Thanks for the photo. It’s clear that the older Shimano 8-speed groupsets allowed a lot more flexibility for playing with gear ratios.

10 or 11 speed? Are the shifters also Shimano 105?

Hi, What’s the model of your rear derailleur?

It seems possible for a Shimano GRX 600 groupset: "I have an 11-speed GRX 600 groupset where I replaced the 30-tooth chainring with a 28-tooth one. I also swapped the cassette for an 11-speed Shimano 11/42."

It seems to me that the goal isn't to change the drivetrain but the cassette—replacing an 11-35 with an 11-42.

You should specify exactly (brand, model, and reference) what drivetrain is currently installed on your bike: front and rear derailleurs, cassette, and crankset.