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Happy Valley or Ait Bougmez
I just got back from a trip to Morocco and I want to share my experience of the few days I spent in the Happy Valley (also called the Ait Bouguemez Valley—it’s the same place!)
I’d contacted my guide Youssef, whose details I found here on VoyageForum. Since I was coming from the south, I first needed to find the shared transport that would take me across the Atlas Mountains, from the Valley of Roses (near Boulmane Dadès) to the Happy Valley. I left from Kelaat M'Gouna, where I’d stayed the night before at the Hôtel du Grand Atlas, right next to the bus stop. Youssef kept me updated by phone, and after a bit of searching, I found Brahim’s little Mercedes bus, which leaves between 10 AM and 1 PM... depending on how many passengers there are and the season.
The journey was impressive. The road is still under construction, so the bus sometimes drives through the bottom of the gorges, even wading through water before climbing back up and tackling a winding dirt track that rises twice to 3,000 meters at the passes: Tizi n-Ait-Hamed and Tizi n-Ait-Imi. I arrived in Tabant as night was falling, and Youssef was waiting to take me to Gîte Timite, a traditional Amazigh house. It’s built from earth with flat rooftops. For two days, I was welcomed there, sharing meals with the family. The hospitality was truly warm.
We went on two beautiful hikes, sticking to the valley floor. The peaks were snow-covered, so it wasn’t the right season to climb Mount Mgoun, which rises to 4,000 meters.
On the first day, we hiked up the valley to see the dinosaur footprints (a protected site). The valley is lush and known for its apples and walnuts. We were there during apple-picking season—there were apples everywhere! We had lunch with a very friendly family in the village of Rbat, then after a steep climb, we descended into another part of the valley before heading back to Timite.
The second day, we went the other way, toward the west end of the valley. It was just as beautiful. We climbed a few hills overlooking the valley floor, discovering grain storage buildings, and had lunch with a family whose father makes charcoal.
In the evening, I was treated to couscous, which we shared with the whole family—men, women, and children (who are a bit like royalty) sitting on benches. We laughed a lot as I tried to say a few words in Tamazight, or when we made rhythmic music, clapping our hands and tapping on the table...
I really spent two days out of time, feeling very welcome, and slept well. The comfort isn’t amazing—I had a toilet but no shower. But that’s part of sharing the life of the people in the Happy Valley. Thanks to Youssef, Mina, and the kids! "Gite Timit Youssef" or
I’d contacted my guide Youssef, whose details I found here on VoyageForum. Since I was coming from the south, I first needed to find the shared transport that would take me across the Atlas Mountains, from the Valley of Roses (near Boulmane Dadès) to the Happy Valley. I left from Kelaat M'Gouna, where I’d stayed the night before at the Hôtel du Grand Atlas, right next to the bus stop. Youssef kept me updated by phone, and after a bit of searching, I found Brahim’s little Mercedes bus, which leaves between 10 AM and 1 PM... depending on how many passengers there are and the season.
The journey was impressive. The road is still under construction, so the bus sometimes drives through the bottom of the gorges, even wading through water before climbing back up and tackling a winding dirt track that rises twice to 3,000 meters at the passes: Tizi n-Ait-Hamed and Tizi n-Ait-Imi. I arrived in Tabant as night was falling, and Youssef was waiting to take me to Gîte Timite, a traditional Amazigh house. It’s built from earth with flat rooftops. For two days, I was welcomed there, sharing meals with the family. The hospitality was truly warm.
We went on two beautiful hikes, sticking to the valley floor. The peaks were snow-covered, so it wasn’t the right season to climb Mount Mgoun, which rises to 4,000 meters.
On the first day, we hiked up the valley to see the dinosaur footprints (a protected site). The valley is lush and known for its apples and walnuts. We were there during apple-picking season—there were apples everywhere! We had lunch with a very friendly family in the village of Rbat, then after a steep climb, we descended into another part of the valley before heading back to Timite.
The second day, we went the other way, toward the west end of the valley. It was just as beautiful. We climbed a few hills overlooking the valley floor, discovering grain storage buildings, and had lunch with a family whose father makes charcoal.
In the evening, I was treated to couscous, which we shared with the whole family—men, women, and children (who are a bit like royalty) sitting on benches. We laughed a lot as I tried to say a few words in Tamazight, or when we made rhythmic music, clapping our hands and tapping on the table...
I really spent two days out of time, feeling very welcome, and slept well. The comfort isn’t amazing—I had a toilet but no shower. But that’s part of sharing the life of the people in the Happy Valley. Thanks to Youssef, Mina, and the kids! "Gite Timit Youssef" or
Un joli trek dans le désert marocain (merci VoyageForum)
Je reviens du Maroc. Plus exactement du Sud du Maroc, là où la route s'arrête à M'hamid el Ghizlane. Avant de partir j'avais lancé une discussion en me demandant vers quelle partie du Maroc et du désert je voulais aller. J'ai eu plein de réponses. Et du coup on m'a indiqué une petite agence toute nouvelle à M'hamid qui a accepté de m'emmener faire un trek de trois jours dans le désert à pied, avec des dromadaires et nuit en bivouac. Je précise que j'étais tout seul, voyageant en mode routard et complètement en dehors de la saison touristique. J'ai été ravi. Bon, je n'ai pas vu de très grandes dunes mais j'ai touché le désert avec ses étendues immenses de cailloux, de terre battue, de sable... Mon guide-chamelier-cuisinier était un vrai berbère , très attentionné, connaissant tous les petits trucs qui permettent de rendre ce milieu complètement inhospitalier en une randonnée agréable. Tout était sur les dromadaires ... J'ai gouté les couchers de soleil, la fraicheur de la nuit, le feu de camp sur lequel mijote le potage pendant qu'on partage le thé ... Et puis le silence , la journée écrasée de soleil, les yeux qui n'en peuvent plus ... J'ai adoré !!!!
Merci pour tous les conseils des gens qui participent aux forums , ça m'a vraiment aidé.
De M'hamid à Merzouga
Bonjour les amis. 🙂
Je projette une virée dans le sud du Maroc, en février. J'aimerais savoir s'il y a des transports entre M'hamid et Merzouga. Il y a bien une route (ou une piste ?) qui passe par Agoult. ça me semble la voie la plus directe mais peut-être n'y a-t-il pas de bus empruntant cette route. Pensez-vous que je puisse faire du stop ? Ou utiliser un grand taxi ?
Merci de votre aide ! 😊
