Trip to Morocco in September-October 2025, in our camper van

I think I’ll be following in your footsteps through Morocco. We’re planning to go back in a few months, so we’d love to discover some little spots that are a bit off the beaten track. And some great sights to see—or see again. Looking forward to reading more.

Thanks, Vero, for your interest in my travel journal. How are you planning to get to Morocco? By camper van like us, or by plane and renting a car? I’ll continue my journal: We left off in Asilah:

After visiting the medina, we went to buy some vegetables and fruit at the lively market held behind it. Then, we grabbed a few tacos at a little hole-in-the-wall before heading back to the campsite. The next day, Friday, September 19, we left Asilah. We’d already visited Larache in 2009, so we didn’t go back this year. We headed toward Moulay Bousselham, but since we didn’t want to take the highway—preferring what we thought was a small coastal road—we ended up on a horrible road full of potholes and speed bumps, lined with trash. On top of that, it was packed with big trucks and lots of small horse-drawn carts. It’s an area with plastic greenhouse farming—really an ugly environment. We should’ve taken the highway! We arrived in Moulay Bousselham at 11:45 AM and parked near the small fishing port that leads to the lagoon. We took a roughly one-hour boat ride on the lagoon (150 Dh). The boatman was a very friendly man who knew a lot about birds. He’s a 64-year-old former fisherman, too old for fishing now, so he makes a living taking tourists out on the lagoon. This is a well-known bird sanctuary, but unfortunately, it wasn’t the right season or the right time of day to see many birds. We did spot a few pink flamingos, though. Instead of birds, we mostly saw cows!!! In the end, we didn’t find Moulay Bousselham very interesting... But you have to come at the right time of year...

After lunch, we continue on the awful road, full of potholes, with trash everywhere. It stretches on for kilometers until Kenitra, a large city we drive through to reach the beach at Medhia. The weather is nice, but there are big waves, and the sea is dangerous. Behind large dunes, there’s a flat area used as a parking lot. We don’t really like the spot for staying the night, so we take a small sandy road to a pine grove where we find a much quieter place. The track to get there was a bit stressful: we risk getting stuck in the sand several times, but phew, we make it! In the evening, we see a horse-drawn cart and a motorcycle with two guys on it pass by. Everyone gives us big waves 👋 Then, no one else—it’s a very quiet night.

Saturday, September 20th: Now, we’re heading to the highway to bypass Salé, Rabat, and Casablanca, big cities we don’t feel like lingering in. There’s a lot of traffic around these cities, and Moroccans have a very special way of driving: some don’t know which lane they should be in, so they drive right down the middle! Others go very slowly, and some swerve out of nowhere. You’ve got to stay alert! A guy on a scooter zigzags in front of us, going full speed 🛵 We even saw someone on an electric scooter on the highway!

Past these big cities, the highway follows a rather ugly landscape: vacant lots, construction sites, trash… until we reach the road to Azemmour.

Azemmour: We park the van easily on the curb facing the old medina. The streets, quiet at this hour, lead to the ramparts by the Oum-er-Rbia River 🏰 Some murals decorate the medina walls, like in Asilah… but more run-down. It’s much less touristy here, and the homes haven’t been bought and renovated by Westerners, unlike most of those in Asilah’s medina.







By the Oum-er-Rbia River, the promenade lined with small cafés is very pleasant...

On the wall of the communal oven, a mural celebrates Estevanico, a native of Azemmour who became an explorer in America.

The neighborhood’s communal oven, where each resident brings their dough to be baked:



The baker, really friendly, lets us taste a piece of bread but can’t sell us any since he only bakes the loaves brought by families...

We leave the medina and the city to head to the seaside. The parking lot by the beach where we stop for lunch is unfortunately littered with trash 🗑️ The beach is beautiful, but the sky is overcast, and the sea is very rough. Apparently, the currents are dangerous here. We won’t be going for a swim, then. We hit the road again toward El Jadida.

El-Jadida: Along the seafront, tall, rather luxurious buildings stand, with modern bars and restaurants at their base. Today, Saturday, there are people on the beach despite the gloomy weather. We park in a large lot near the Portuguese citadel… then stroll through the old streets and along the ramparts of what was once “the fortress-island of Mazagan” (back then, the sea surrounded the city). Unfortunately for us, the stunning Portuguese cistern, one of the citadel’s major sites, is closed for renovations—no one knows until when 🚧 The Portuguese citadel is surrounded by ramparts with four bastions.

It’s a pleasure reading you and seeing these lovely photos. Thanks.

On the roads of Morocco in a camper van: The coastal road after El-Jadida passes by large petrochemical complexes. Fortunately, after leaving them behind, we finally reach a coast where the environment is more pleasant: lagoons and tall reeds, vegetable fields bordered by dunes shape the landscape. To reach our bivouac spot, we turn onto a small bumpy and winding track that goes through pink salt flats covered with birds, then climbs steeply up rocky cliffs where we park to spend the evening and night. A small cove stretches out below us, but getting down there doesn’t seem easy. We won’t try since it’s too chilly this evening for a swim. Local fishermen go down without any problem. They tell us they’re fishing for octopus among the rocks using a long pole. What a stunning spot! We’ll sleep lulled by the sound of the waves. The cove below our bivouac

We slept well on the cliff above the sea. This morning, when we woke up, we saw three small donkeys with packsaddles tied at the edge of the cliff. They’re waiting for the women who are down below scraping among the rocks. What are they gathering? Maybe mussels or oysters, which are famous around here.





The locals in the area also collect a lot of red algae that thrive on this coast in the summer. Later in the fall, they won’t be allowed to gather them anymore. They’re used in the pharmaceutical industry and are a good source of income for the locals.

Following the coast to Oualidia, the road overlooks the lagoon and market gardens climbing up the dunes. After El-Jadida, the coastal landscape is much more beautiful than what we’ve seen since the start of our trip. Oualidia: It’s busy today because it’s Sunday, and Moroccans, especially from Casablanca, come here for the weekend. In town, café terraces are filled with people having breakfast—*msemens* (flaky pancakes) spread with *kiri* (a soft cheese) and honey. All the cafés have small stalls on their terraces to cook these delicious pancakes, and we can’t resist buying some for our lunch. After picking up a few supplies in town, we park in one of the beach parking lots (5 Dh). There are two parts to Oualidia: the town and the seaside resort. The resort itself has two beaches—one on the Atlantic side where the fishing boats are, and the lagoon beach sheltered from the waves. This part of the coast is the most fish-rich in Morocco.

The lagoon of Oualidia. The lagoon-side beach is separated from the ocean breakers.

Fishermen sell their fish and shellfish along the beach near the fishing port. The boats are pulled onto the beach by a tractor.

We head toward the lighthouse of Beddouza... At the end of the road by the lighthouse, a long and beautiful beach stretches out. We park at the very end, in a parking lot hidden by the dunes. We’ll stay here all afternoon and night. The weather isn’t great, and the long, beautiful beach is almost deserted today...

Thanks Jean for your interest, especially coming from a Morocco lover like you...

I continue my story:

We arrive in Safi: We were very sad to learn about the terrible disaster that struck the beautiful medina of Safi with that massive flood that devastated it recently.

The medina of Safi: We have fond memories of it because it’s authentic and lively, with lots of locals and small shops.

We get lost in the maze of many arched, dark, and cool passageways. This medina is really interesting because it’s vibrant and popular, with its souk and all kinds of stalls: tailoring, hairdressing, fishing supplies, etc.











In the medina, people greet us everywhere. The Portuguese cathedral is closed for renovations, so we just pass by it! As we leave onto Place Sidi Boudhab, a café with a welcoming terrace beckons us! A little break and some good mint tea will do us good after this long walk… It’s hot, and we’ve walked a lot… But we can’t leave Safi without taking a quick detour to the nearby potters’ hill.

From the top of the hill, we can see the potters’ kilns. We then take the coastal road, but first, we pass through the sardine cannery district, followed by large chemical and industrial complexes, and the big Port of Safi Atlantique with lots of construction work all along the road. What a hassle!

Our journey continues with lots of major roadworks all the way… until we reach the charming little port of Bhaibah. What a pleasant surprise this pretty little port is! The sea is very rough there. The waves crash into the jagged volcanic rocks and burst out through the holes in geysers of spray. Impressive!

A mosque and a few houses: the little port of Bhaibiah.

The sea bursts out in geysers from the rock crevices!

Further along the beach, the boats are resting.

Taking a slightly sandy track, we arrive at the “Mogador Oasis” campsite. It’s open, contrary to what we thought, and that’s a nice surprise… It’s recently been taken over by a young French couple who’ve renovated everything. It’s a lovely spot in the middle of the dunes, facing the long beach. There’s even a beautiful seawater pool and well-separated pitches... A fantastic place!

Essaouira: We park in a lot near a small supermarket about 1.5 km from the medina and set off on foot along the main avenue, passing first some buildings, then a whole jumble of things—a tannery, garages, carpentry shops, warehouses...

A stroll through the medina’s streets, along the sqala, and down to the port... I won’t go on too much, everyone knows Essaouira... Still as touristy as ever, but the city has kept all its charm. Of course, we check if the little eatery "El Assouani" is still there. And yes, we find it, still the same, in the same spot, and its tagines are just as delicious!



Mr. El Assouani, a great spot in Essaouira!

We need to find a place to spend the night because the campsite near the beach, where we stayed in 2009, is gone. Buildings have taken its place—it’s the price of mass tourism... So we hit the road toward Sidi-Kaouki... This place doesn’t look promising! It’s just huge campsites packed with RVs side by side, and the beach covered in umbrellas and lounge chairs... Not at all what I expected! Way too crowded here...

So we drive past Sidi-Kaouki and settle in the dunes planted with argan trees and small thorny bushes. To get there, you have to follow a rocky, bumpy track. It’s a lovely, quiet spot with a view of the sea in the distance...

Wednesday, September 24: Thanks to your great tips, Jean, we visit the salt mines of Ida-ou-Azza, where rock salt is extracted. By injecting fresh water into the galleries where the salt is found, the water becomes salty and is then left to settle in basins, like salt marshes. Fascinating... A little later, we pass Cap Tafafelney and the stunning Tafadna beach. To get there, you take a winding road that descends steeply to the small fishing port. Behind the long beach, small white and blue houses line the promenade. Hardly anyone here... It’s very peaceful. We sit on the beach, and I brave the sea... But it’s freezing, and the wind is blowing hard.

The little port and beautiful Tafadna beach

It’s not warm enough to stay on the beach, so we get back on the N1 after lunch...

At one of the many police checkpoints (there are *so* many in Morocco), an officer signals us to stop. He gives us a 150 Dh fine for speeding: we were going 77 km/h in a 60 km/h zone. We didn’t even see the speed limit—there are so many signs on the ground: 60 km/h, then 80 km/h, then back to 60 km/h... It’s completely inconsistent! Oh well, the officer gives us a receipt. We’re not the only ones getting stopped—practically everyone is. It’s pretty common here, apparently... So watch out for all the signs!

After getting back on the road, we take a turnoff marked “Tildi beach.” We follow a steep, rocky track that winds along a breathtaking canyon carved by a tiny oued. A little nook under the argan trees gives us shelter for the evening and night. We’d rather not drive down to the tiny village below because our van isn’t a 4x4, and the track is *very* steep... Especially since we’ll have to climb back up tomorrow! It’s a gorgeous spot with the sea on the horizon.

At the end of the canyon is the small village of Tildi

We continue south along the coast... We pass Tamri and its large banana plantation. We take the chance to buy some small bananas—they’re *so* good... We keep heading south... A quick stop in Aghroud and its colorful houses... Then we carry on to Taghazout. We’d been there before, and I knew it had changed a lot... We don’t linger too long, just enough time for a nice swim in the sea—finally warm—and the weather’s beautiful and hot... Until late morning, when the wind picks up again! Then it’s Agadir, which we just pass through... First along the fishing port, then the commercial port. The cable cars heading up to the old kasbah on its hill pass right over our heads! We follow wide avenues with pretty heavy traffic, new neighborhoods with lots of trees, landscaped paid parking lots, modern and tidy complexes. It feels like the Catalan coast! We stop to grab a few things at the Carrefour supermarket (buying some "Casablanca" beer. Alcohol, which is pretty expensive, is in a section completely separate from the rest of the store). It feels like France in this shopping center, with Western fashion stores, trendy clothes, Decathlon, etc...

And we leave the coast to head into the Anti-Atlas... We keep driving, still along big, busy avenues with lots of roundabouts. The suburbs are really spread out: Inezgane, Ait-Melloul—very long towns that are kind of a pain to drive through...

Happy I could show you the salt flats. And happy to follow you...

After the very sprawling outskirts of Agadir, we take the R105 toward Tafraoute. It’s late, and we need to find a place for the night. Our planned stop was supposed to be a quiet spot in the countryside just before the village we wanted to visit the next day to see the old fortified granary of Ikounka. But shortly after we settled in, a guy—supposedly a security officer—arrived on a moped and ordered us to leave and park in the town of Aït-Baha. Well, we had no choice but to leave that beautiful spot… What a shame… So we headed to Aït-Baha and parked in a lot at the entrance of town, which seemed really peaceful… The night was actually quite calm—until the muezzin’s call at 5:30 AM! This morning, we turned back to see the famous fortified granaries (agadirs) of Ikounka and Imchguiguiln. They’re indeed very large and beautiful, but unfortunately, they were closed. No matter how much we asked the locals, either they didn’t understand or they didn’t know how to find the caretaker… So we only got to see them from the outside, which is really too bad…

Agadir Ikounka Agadir of Imchguiguiln

Then we got back on the R105, passing through Aït-Baha again. All along this winding road through the ochre mountains, dotted with argan trees, we had amazing views. It runs through small villages with red-ochre houses that blend into the hillsides…



The Tizourgane kasbah

It sits atop its rocky spur. Once a 13th-century fortified village made of granite, around which houses were built, it also served as an agadir (fortified granary)… It’s been fully restored by a family who now runs a guesthouse there. After paying 20 Dh per person, we could wander through the alleys, admire the houses built with skillfully assembled stones, the beautifully carved and painted doors with traditional motifs, and enjoy the stunning views of the surrounding area…

The R105 continues through breathtaking landscapes. Then it gets narrower, with badly damaged shoulders, making passing difficult. And finally, we arrive in Tafraoute… It’s scorching hot here—quite a change from the coast!

The Tazka campsite, where we stayed 16 years ago, is closed (under construction), and the others are either closed or too far away. The only one open is the “3 Palmiers” campsite, and it’s packed! The good thing is that it’s right near the town center. Once we’re settled at the campsite, we head into town to buy some bread and happily return to the café we loved back in 2009 (Memories, memories!). We enjoy a fruit juice on the terrace, where we can watch the street life. Then we take a little stroll through the babouche souk (yes, Tafraoute is the babouche capital!). In this region, women wear a distinctive outfit: a black veil and a dress made of a black skirt brightened by a colorful trim at the bottom, wrapped three times and topped with a black elasticated ruffle over a long-sleeved, colorful top.

The babouche souk

Saturday, September 27: This morning, around 9 AM, we set off for a long walk around Tafraoute, just like we did in 2009. We take the road past the “Tazka” and “Granit Rose” campsites—both closed—and… we arrive at the pretty village of Tazekka. The village of Tazekka The village houses are built among the granite boulders. After reaching the last houses in the village, we take what looks like an old trail. We climb over large rocks, but after a while, the path becomes impassable… So we look for another way and finally find a “trail” marked by piles of stones placed at regular intervals. Great marking, in the end! We just had to spot the start. We often end up walking in the completely dry bed of a wadi. The drought is severe here. The sun is blazing… It’s heartbreaking to see this nature dying of thirst… A few shrubs, thorny plants, and succulents manage to survive in the rock crevices where a little moisture remains. There are even small oleanders in bloom! Beehives are lined up, but what’s there to forage here?

The landscape is still just as stunningly beautiful! A mineral landscape, no one around, not a sound—absolute silence…

We take a short break in the shade of a large rock, enjoying some small bananas we bought in Tamri (they’re really excellent), and then turn back. It’s 11:50 AM, and it’s really hot. Time to head back… We’re back in the village of Tazekka, and there’s still a bit of road before we reach the campsite. When we arrive, we’re drenched in sweat and exhausted… This afternoon, it’s time to rest… until 5:30 PM, when we head into town. In front of our usual café, a woman is making msemens, those delicious Berber crepes we love so much… Tafraoute is a really nice little town where you feel at home.

Hi Anne,

I’m really enjoying following your journey through a country that left me with great memories.

First of all, thanks Joël, for following my story... I’ll continue: Sunday, September 28: In the morning, we leave the campsite and take the road to the Aït-Mansour gorges. It’s quite narrow and winding, with some vertigo-inducing sections. We drive through a stunning landscape of ochre mountains... Once we reach the start of the gorges, we follow the road that cuts through them—at times very narrow and damaged... There’s still a little water at the bottom of the gorges, and the nature here is lush.

We continue past the gorge oasis to a village where a souk is taking place (Souk-Had-Issi, we assume), then to the village of Tiwadou, where our camping neighbors had recommended the Sahnoun hostel.

Village of Tiwadou

Unfortunately, today being Sunday, it’s closed—too bad! (And we should’ve booked ahead.) So we turn back.

Suddenly, on the road, an elderly woman in traditional dress waves us down and speaks to us in a language we don’t understand. She repeats the word “souk” several times, so she must want to go to the village we just passed. We let her hop in, and she’s overjoyed. When I open the door for her, she even kisses me to show her happiness! When we drop her off at the village, the men sitting at the café terrace are surprised to see this old woman getting out of our camper van! Back to the Aït-Mansour gorges, then... and lunch at "Mustapha’s hostel," the only one around. In this tiny "hostel," the menu only has Berber omelets, mint tea with cookies... and dates, of course! There are date palms everywhere... Well, it’ll do—the terrace under the foliage is really nice... But the bill is pretty steep! He’s taking advantage, the rascal! Oh well, we had a good time...

We hit the road again through the mountains toward Tafraoute and stop at a large, flat area overlooking the valley. A perfect spot to spend the night!



From there, you can even see the painted rocks site (though honestly, it’s an eyesore! What a bizarre idea to paint such beautiful rocks blue in their natural shade!)... Still, the view is amazing... Luckily, from here, you need binoculars to see them! Monday, September 29: We wake up in the mountains above Tafraoute, facing a stunning panorama. We’re at 1,600m altitude, but by 9 AM, the sun is already beating down. It gets very hot during the day, but in the evening, the cold wind cools things down... We take the road toward Igherm, passing through Tafraoute again... The landscape is desert-like, with stretches of barren hills dotted with old adobe villages...



The beautiful Anti-Atlas mountains, gray and ochre, are striped with parallel lines, as if combed by a giant rake! Then we cross Igherm and continue on road 106 toward Taliouine. But, as a French couple in a camper van we met before Igherm warned us, the road after this town is in very bad shape. Heavy storm rains washed away part of the road, and the fords (platforms at stream crossings) are under repair. In some places, it’s just a rocky track replacing the road—really tough to navigate. You have to go very slowly... It’s stressful and exhausting. About 50 km before Taliouine, around 5:30 PM, we decide to stop for the evening and night on a large, flat, rocky area at the foot of striped hills. In the distance, a small village with its mosque... Clumps of scaly plants dot the desert landscape. The wind tempers the day’s intense heat...



The night was very calm, and this morning, we savor these poetic moments: the sun rising behind the hills on the horizon, the clumps of plants crowned with light... That’s the joy of sleeping in nature... Luckily, the road from there to Taliouine is in good condition—phew! Just before Taliouine, a young boy waves us down in front of a house. He says he missed the school minibus or that it didn’t come (we don’t fully understand since his French isn’t great). Come on, we’ll take him—he’s not missing school today! The landscape changes as we approach the city. It’s much greener now, with orchards stretching out... We park on a large area overlooking part of the city, just steps from the lively center. It’s market day, so it’s busy...

Taliouine, market day... After a few purchases, we’re about to head back to our camper van. At the corner of the main street, there’s a café with an oven on its terrace. A guy is just taking out flat, lumpy galettes. Women sitting there call out to us kindly, explaining that it’s traditional Berber bread. We sit down too for some tea, and these young women tell us they’re Franco-Moroccan and live in Lille. They came with their mother to visit family back home: uncles, aunts, cousins. They insist on paying for our drinks, and one even buys saffron from a producer her uncle knows to give to us! So sweet! (Taliouine is the center of saffron production, also called "red gold" here.) Near Taliouine is one of the many properties of the Glaoui of Marrakech. In 2009, we were able to visit the one in Telouet, which is now closed for renovation—it’s a good thing if it’s being restored, because it was heartbreaking to see all that beauty left to decay.

This one is quite dilapidated, and you can’t visit inside, but it’s still beautiful from the outside. We continue to the village of Ifri, where there’s an agadir (fortified granary) clinging to the cliff. We ask a small shopkeeper by the road how to get there. He tells us to go to the village mosque, near which the agadir’s guardian lives. To enter the village of Ifri, you have to cross a ford via a narrow, rocky track with steep descents and climbs. We park after crossing it, at the village entrance. There, a guy who improvises as a guide leads us to the foot of the cliff. Before getting there, we follow paths along cultivated plots surrounded by earthen walls. This is where crocuses will soon be grown—their stigmas produce the famous saffron. Several times, he points out plots where he says “safron”!... He shows us the irrigation system and other crops: wheat, alfalfa, almond trees, olive trees... At the foot of the cliff, he says he’ll go get the keys and soon returns with the real guardian. The guardian opens the door and shows us the different rooms where grain was stored, telling us these granaries were even used as homes in the past.

And the fortified granary in the cliff This time, we were able to visit the inside of the agadir: steep little staircases, doors with unique locks, and always the hole for the cat to pass through to hunt mice! All in all, a very interesting visit. We give 50 Dh to the guardian and 10 Dh to the guy who accompanied us to the agadir. We get back on the road, which is straight and in good condition, all the way to Tazenakt, which we cross before heading to the Taghdoute dam lake nearby to spend the night. The lake is lined with tamarisks and home to shovelers and coots. A beautiful setting, but ruined by all the trash people leave behind after picnics. Too bad!

Wednesday, October 1, 2025: A beautiful sunrise over the lake 🌅 Coots and ducks are quacking away 🦆 After another stretch of road, we arrive in sight of the old ksar of Aït-Benhaddou around 11:15 AM.

After parking the camper van without any issues along the street, in front of rows of restaurants and hotels, we cross the dry riverbed and enter the ksar through the main gate. There, to our surprise, we’re asked to pay 20 Dh per person—while, as we’ll see later, most visitors led by their guides cross via the pedestrian bridge and pay nothing! We’re shocked by all the souvenir shops filling the alleys of the old ksar. Not a single spot without displays of all kinds of jewelry, carpets, watercolors, objects, etc. 🛍️ And the number of tour groups on organized trips is staggering! There are people from all nationalities… You can’t see anything of the ksar with so many people and items spread everywhere! We climb to the top (under construction), where we admire the view of the maze of alleys and covered passages, then descend through these same alleys where, in 2009, we were practically alone. Back then, we could admire the beautiful doors, and the houses were still inhabited. Now, they’re occupied by souvenir shops… What a change! Let’s flee this infernal crowd pouring into the narrow alleys of the ksar in continuous waves…

We take refuge in a small restaurant where we enjoy a delicious chicken and lemon tajine with vegetables. It’s the restaurant « Tamlalte », located near the pedestrian bridge. We’re almost alone there, and we have a great view of the ksar through the large bay windows.

… Then, to get back to the camper van, we pass through a very narrow alley at the corner of which there’s a small café with a welcoming terrace, covered by a light pergola. We enjoy a very good fresh « apple-pomegranate » juice made on the spot. Phew, it feels good to rest on this little terrace in peace. It’s still scorching hot today… We hit the road again and head to Ouarzazate. We start with some shopping at the Carrefour supermarket (it’s the only one where you can find beer), then park facing the Kasbah of Taourirt. It was one of the many residences of Pasha El-Glaoui. Considerably expanded in the 1920s, it’s actually a ksar—a fortified village that was inhabited (no longer since 1956). Unfortunately, it’s currently under construction, so we can only admire it from the outside. The Kasbah of Taourirt

Since we can’t visit the main kasbah, we take a stroll through the adjacent ksar. It’s still home to several families, and several guesthouses welcome visitors. But there’s no way to be left in peace. The vendors all want to sell us things, others want to guide us… A guy offers to let us climb for free onto the terrace of a guesthouse. He’s very friendly and explains that the surrounding houses, no longer inhabited or maintained, are deteriorating and falling into ruin. The rammed-earth constructions (straw and clay) require upkeep. There’s a lot of rubble in the streets, and in several places, artisans are at work. That’s a good thing… After wandering through the ksar, we try to visit the Cinema Museum, located right across from the main kasbah, but it’s too late—it closes at 5 PM. Oh well… I don’t know if we missed much; reviews are mixed on how interesting this museum is… After going to the modern part of town to exchange money, we take the road to the Fint Oasis, where we plan to spend the night.

The Fint Oasis, a little slice of paradise!

Upon arriving, we realize we’re out of bread. Will we find any for sale here? A local woman passes by us. I ask her, and she motions for us to follow her. She leads us through the village street (it’s uphill) to a house just past the mosque. She takes us inside to meet another woman, who welcomes us into her inner courtyard. Quickly, she lays out rugs and cushions on the floor and invites us to sit. She serves us mint tea and brings out traditional flatbreads.

Not losing sight of business, she offers to cook couscous for us tomorrow at noon (120 Dh). Deal made—she’ll come get us so we can watch her prepare the meal… We buy two loaves of bread from her and return to the camper van parked by the riverbed at the bottom of the village. We’ll spend the night by the riverbed

To our surprise, there are lots of people gathering carpets they’ve washed in the riverbed and laid out to dry on the rocks. They explain that there’s a wedding in their family, so they need to clean all these carpets. The whole family spent the day here, with kids, pots, and stoves. They load everything into a pickup truck to head home, near Ouarzazate. Washing carpets in the riverbed

We finish the evening outside. It was very hot today, and tonight, there’s no cool breeze like other evenings… Several locals come to picnic by the water… Around 10:30 PM, everyone’s gone… total silence.

Thursday, October 2: In the morning, women walk along the riverbed. They’re heading to the marshes at the far end to gather fodder for the animals. Here, women aren’t veiled in black like in the Tafraoute region—they wear floral dresses and headscarves. We take a little walk on the other side, along gardens with square plots bordered by small earthen walls, cultivated with alfalfa, corn, and vegetables, as well as many date palms.

Around 11 AM, the woman comes to get us to take us to her home. As last night, we sit on cushions in the inner courtyard of her house. She first brings us dates and takes us into her very basic kitchen, where the couscoussier is on the fire. Chicken, carrots, and onions are boiling in the lower part, and the semolina is steaming on top. After a while, she cooks the other vegetables: zucchini, peppers, and eggplants, then puts the semolina in a basin. After adding a little water and oil, she rolls the semolina between her hands to separate the grains and puts it back to cook. She has to do this three times… While waiting for it to cook, we sip mint tea.

Her husband’s mother also lives there (it’s her house). The old woman sits on the floor in one of the rooms around the courtyard. Her daughter (our hostess’s sister-in-law) brings her a 5-liter jug of goat’s milk. She wraps it in a plastic bag, ties the ends with strings hanging from the ceiling, and swings it back and forth energetically. It’s an improvised churn to make butter! I didn’t know you could make butter from goat’s milk. I’ve never seen it for sale anywhere. Apparently, it’s healthier than cow’s milk butter… In any case, I think she must spend quite a while swinging that churn before getting butter! An improvised churn! Meanwhile, the couscous is done cooking. The woman brings us a beautiful dish with the semolina topped with chicken and vegetables, accompanied by a bowl of sauce. It’s very good and filling (though we would’ve liked it spicier).

When we return to the camper van, there are still groups of women washing their carpets in the riverbed. It seems to be a common practice here… After this lovely stay at the Fint Oasis, we head toward Skoura, crossing a desert-like landscape… We park at the Amridil campsite, located very close to the main kasbah… Since it’s very hot and there’s a pool at this campsite, we take a quick dip before visiting the kasbah (we’d already been there in 2009). Not only is it hot, but the AC and interior ventilation in our old camper van are broken!!! It’s the same one we came to Morocco with, and we’ve traveled through many countries in it. It’s still going strong!

In 2009, we loved the beautiful, lush palm grove that stretched behind the kasbah. This place was very green, with all kinds of irrigated crops growing under the palm and olive trees. We’re saddened to see it so dried out now. The palm trees are attacked by a parasitic fungus, « bayoud, » which weakens them and prevents them from resisting the severe drought caused by rising temperatures. Around the kasbah, it’s a construction site—the road is under repair, with big piles of earth, stones, and dust everywhere…

The kasbah is also being restored, but you can still visit part of it (40 Dh per person). It was featured on the old 50 Dh banknotes with the portrait of Hassan II. And it served as a filming location.

You can only see a small part of it, containing everyday objects (kitchen, bread oven, oil press), and climb onto the terraces where masons are at work. The Kasbah of Amridil looks impressive from the front, but the back is in poor condition.



After a short walk through the palm grove (or what’s left of it), we return to the campsite, exhausted because it’s still stiflingly hot today. Fortunately, a little wind picks up in the evening—it feels good. There aren’t many people at the campsite; not many tourists around here at the moment… Tomorrow, we’re heading to the Valley of the Roses…

Friday, October 3: We set off fairly late from the Amridil campsite, and drive to El-Kelaa des M’gouna, through a rather unappealing landscape of vast, rocky desert. Still scorching hot today! In El-Kelaa, we do some shopping. The town is packed with shops selling rose-based products, but we still manage to find bread and vegetables! We head toward Bou-Tahrar... The road leading to the Valley of Roses on the outskirts of El-Kelaa is under heavy construction. So much so that we have to drive on a bumpy, gravelly track covered in dust and pebbles. Speed limit signs are everywhere. And it goes on like this for about 20 km! There’s so much construction work in Morocco these days... Finally, we emerge onto a well-maintained road that follows a beautiful green landscape: eroded ochre and pink mountains overlooking the oued lined with vegetation. It’s a welcome change from the desert expanses we’ve been crossing!

For lunch, we take a small road/track down to the edge of the oued. We stop for a much-needed break in this lovely setting. The spot is flat and sandy but firm, so there’s no risk of getting stuck... After this pleasant moment—a picnic by the water—we get back on the road and follow the oued through breathtaking scenery.



We first arrive in Tamaloute, where we don’t linger, then in Bou-Tahrar, a pretty village with the old Aït-Oumergdane kasbah at its center. Kids are playing soccer in the street, others are carrying wood and branches on their mules, and some are racing down the street on their bikes. Since it’s Friday, the shops are closed—the street belongs to them... Friendly vibe. Often in villages, young kids, as soon as they see tourists, have gotten into the habit of begging for candy, pens, or dirhams. Now, the older kids keep an eye on them and stop them. It’s a good thing because it was getting pretty annoying! The kasbah of Aït-Boumergdane

He’s loading the mule!!! In Bou-Tahrar village, a soccer game in the street...

We decide to park for the night at the spot where we had lunch, by the M’Goun oued. Several vehicles pass by us since there are villages on the other side of the oued and a ford. They greet us warmly, and some kids on bikes even give us two beautiful pomegranates! Nice... Olive trees, pomegranate trees, tall reeds, and oleanders line the water, along with silver birches, corn, and alfalfa fields. It’s not rose season... As in all oases, women walk by carrying sacks of fodder on their backs to feed the animals kept in the courtyards. Saturday, October 4: We head toward Boulmane-du-Dadès... and follow the Dadès Valley. The road is lined with adobe villages, crops, and orchards along the oued, with rocky geological formations called “monkey fingers” towering above. A parking lot is set up in front of these rounded rocks to welcome tourists. It’s a major tourist spot in Morocco: hikers, cyclists with their guides come from Marrakech by minibus. The Valley of the "Monkey Paws"

After a quick photo stop of the rocks along the valley, we continue and enter the gorges. The road is bordered by magnificent rock formations, deep canyons, and breathtaking landscapes... And hardly anyone around!

And the big tortoise...

Msemrir: We’d already been here in 2009 and are having a hard time recognizing it. It’s market day, and there’s a lively atmosphere... It’s 3:30 PM, and the vendors are packing up their goods. Back when we visited, in Msemrir, it was the “end of the tarmac”... Some very friendly gentlemen tell us that now the road continues all the way to Agoudal, where you can reach the Todgha Gorges. So we’ll be able to take this beautiful, well-maintained road, which climbs gently through lunar landscapes dotted with stone houses and apple orchards. This is apple country! For the night, we park in the barren mountains at 2,815 meters altitude, about 20 km from Msemrir. The spot is a bit polluted with oil stains (it was a stop for machinery during the road construction), but the surrounding mountain scenery is stunning... Anyway, it’s too cold to eat outside! And it’s very quiet—no traffic around here...

Two little donkeys keep us company... It’s nice to see donkeys that aren’t tied up or loaded with heavy bundles! Sunday, October 5:

The night in the mountains near Msemrir was pretty chilly, but luckily, we have a good duvet (which we hadn’t had a chance to use until now)! We set off again on the beautiful road toward Agoudal... Along the way, we pick up an elderly gentleman walking with his stick and slippers! He wants to go to Agoudal, 18 km away, and there aren’t many vehicles on this road! There’s activity in the fields this morning: plowing with mule teams, women and children picking apples and fodder, others digging with hoes. Along the way, we spot Berber nomads with their herds in the mountains.

Soon, the road becomes completely wrecked, full of potholes, but the landscape is still magnificent! We buy bread in the village of Aït-Hani. The kids ask for candy, pens, or dirhams—one even throws a rock at us! What a welcome! But as soon as an adult approaches, they stop... Next, we arrive in Tamtatouche, which we just pass through. A dam has just been built right after the village... And we enter the Todgha Gorges. There still aren’t too many tourists—hardly anyone on the road...

The closer we get to the narrows where the Todgha has carved deep gorges, the more traffic there is.

At the entrance to the narrows, there are large parking lots, but very few vehicles are parked there. The strangest thing is that in the gorge itself—at a narrow passage by the oued—there’s a huge traffic jam: three tourist buses are parked on the side, and another is coming from the opposite direction. The driver, probably a beginner, doesn’t dare to move forward. He’s afraid of falling into the oued! Several people try to guide him. We’re completely stuck... After a long while, he finally decides to pass, and we can finally move forward! And all this because the buses, instead of parking in the lots, do it right in the middle of the narrows so tourists have less walking to do!!! Ridiculous! There are souvenir vendors set up all along... and even a little bar with a terrace! The locals, with their families, come to picnic by the oued. They watch this spectacle with amusement...

After the Todgha Gorge, the palm grove, and the village of Aït-Boujane

we head to the parking lot/belvedere overlooking the large palm grove. There are souvenir vendors, of course, but the parking lot is very spacious, and we find a quiet spot to park and have lunch (after shooing away the kids who are quite a nuisance around here). Tour buses or cars occasionally stop to admire the view of the palm grove. Immediately, they’re swarmed by vendors trying to get them to buy something… Next, we go to Tineghir:



We park in the center and walk to the old ksar Aït Lhaj Ali and the mellah (the former Jewish quarter). Earthen walls line the narrow alleys, and in the commercial district, there are various small shops. After visiting Tineghir, we want to see the old Ikelane mosque/medersa. We get lost on the way and struggle to find it. Fortunately, some very friendly kids help us navigate through the palm grove… What’s more, they don’t ask for anything and even refuse the reward we offer for guiding us there… We follow the paths through the large palm grove, which is more like an olive grove in this area. Very lush, it’s planted with many fruit trees (olive trees, pomegranates, fig trees…) Arrows pointing to the mosque are painted in several places, but we had to find the start of the trail! There’s probably another access through the ruined ksar behind it—mystery! The guardian (whom we wake up!) shows us the different rooms, gives us lots of explanations, and takes us up to the muezzin’s terrace. At the end of the visit, we give him 40 Dh (you give what you want). In the Ikelane mosque, the prayer room

The ablution room, with a 28m-deep well that still has water...

On the terrace, the dome that was damaged by lightning

Beautiful view of the palm grove (or rather, the olive grove) from the top of the terrace

For the night, about twenty kilometers from Tineghir, we park on a bare patch of land in the mountains. Stunning view and absolute tranquility… Monday, October 6: We cross more arid landscapes until we reach Tinejdad.

You have to stop just before the actual town of Tinejdad to access the old ksar. We visited it in 2009. Back then, the oued had overflowed, and we had to cross a temporary bridge by wading through. Today, the oued is completely dry, and we cross on foot after parking the van across the way. Here, women wear "haïks," black (or white) fabric embroidered with bright Berber patterns. In 2009, there was a women’s cooperative selling embroidered haïks—I even bought one. This time, I didn’t see anything; everything was closed… The old ksar of Tinejdad

And we arrive in Goulmina:

We stop along a shopping street to pick up a few supplies. As I step out of the van, I come face-to-face with a man who looks like a Westerner. He’s accompanied by a Moroccan. I ask them where the "old ksar Goulmina" mentioned in the Gandini guide is. They tell us it’s 1.2 km away and kindly point us in the right direction. Soon, we arrive at the gate flanked by two towers, one of which is the mosque’s minaret. Across from it is a large open space used for threshing during harvest season and as a parking lot the rest of the time. That’s where we park the van. A guy quickly introduces himself as an official guide (he has a badge)… We accept his offer. He only asks for a ridiculously small payment, and he turns out to be very interesting (so we end up giving him more!) He explains the life of the ksar’s inhabitants, takes us through the different alleys, courtyards, and covered passages, and shows us the stables where goats and donkeys are raised… The gate of the old ksar Goulmina

After visiting the ksar, the guide shows us the lush gardens behind it: palm trees, fig trees, olive trees, and various crops

It’s high time for lunch when we leave the ksar and our friendly guide. To exit the ksar’s neighborhood, we have to take a fairly narrow alley, and it’s school dismissal time! Lots of kids on foot and bikes flood the street. We have to wait a good while before we can get through! After lunch, the road continues north. We cross the city of Errachidia, passing near the Hassan-Addakhil dam lake—a vast expanse of intensely blue water surrounded by rocky hills. Tamarix plantations have been set up all along the road, which is a great initiative. For now, they’re still very small… Then we follow the Ziz Valley…

For the night, we’re setting up at the "Jurassic Park" campsite. This campsite is pleasant, not overcrowded, and affordable. It’ll let us refill our water and empty the tanks. There’s even a pool, but we won’t get to enjoy it—it’s too late tonight… Tuesday, October 7: We leave "Jurassic Park" and head north toward Midelt, passing under the Legionnaire’s small tunnel. In Midelt, we go shopping at the municipal market. The city seems much more modern than we remember (though maybe our memory is playing tricks on us!) We have lunch on the terrace of a small eatery, the "Berber Restaurant." Good lamb tagines and vegetables (45 Dh each)… We leave the city and make a short stop to have coffee near a small oued that forms a kind of oasis in this desert landscape: grass, reeds, apple trees, and almond trees. This bucolic scenery is very relaxing. Too bad the road runs so close by… As we drive through the mountains, the sky fills with thick clouds, and a few drops even fall. But the blue sky quickly returns… Greenery now lines the road, and in the fields, large herds of sheep and goats graze—even cows! What a change of scenery! The road is good, but there are lots of big trucks loaded to the brim (straw bales sticking out everywhere), and since it’s uphill, they’re moving very slowly. With all the curves, it’s hard to pass them. Sometimes we have to drive at 12 km/h for several kilometers.

Our overnight stop: After some research, we’re parking in the cedar forest just before Azrou on a high plateau at 1,800m. To get there, you take a dirt track and, along the way, we’re surprised to come face-to-face with a big truck. What’s it doing on this narrow, remote track? The driver signals that it’s passable, and we take the chance to ask what he’s carrying. He tells us it’s pozzolan—a volcanic rock—used to make cement. He even grabs a handful from the back to show us! He explains there’s a quarry further on. All evening, big trucks make round trips loaded with pozzolan. From where we’re parked, we can see them passing on the trail. Luckily, by 9 PM, it’s quiet. Let’s hope they don’t start too early tomorrow morning!



Wednesday, October 8: No big trucks during the night—phew! And this morning, the first one only passed at 8:30. We hit the road again toward Michlifen, where there’s a small winter sports resort with ski lifts. The mountain landscape, with its green meadows and cedar forests, contrasts sharply with the desert expanses we’ve just crossed. We pass through Azrou, then Ifrane, where the king has a summer residence. It’s very upscale there, with well-maintained flowerbeds and urban planning. The Ifrane forest is the most beautiful cedar grove in Morocco. Barbary macaques—also called "Berber macaques"—live here, and you can easily spot them by the roadside. They’re the only macaques found outside Asia.

We arrive in Sefrou, a small town we really liked... We park in a lot across from the medina. What a beautifully colorful and lively medina! It’s surrounded by crenellated walls and split in two by the Aggay riverbed (completely dry this season—and full of trash).

Along the riverbed: pink facades and tall trees





Several medina streets are filled with artisan workshops making passementerie (trimmings for dresses and djellabas). We’re intrigued by the number of shops selling small, flexible colored plastic tubes. A friendly merchant explains they’re used to make little round cherry-shaped buttons (a local specialty), embroidered with twisted thread and small motors. These buttons are used for caftans and djellabas and are made by many women in the area. Further on, we find ourselves in the food stall district. We buy some bread and small anise-flavored shortbread cookies. But also thick pancakes—smooth on one side and covered in little bumps on the other! They’re made from semolina... We’ll enjoy them for lunch.

Leaving Sefrou, we take the road skirting Fès. We visited its grand and beautiful medina in 2009 and want to keep the fond memories we have of it. Plus, we’re eager to end our trip with a short stay on the Mediterranean coast, so we’re heading north—and there’s still a long way to go. So, after Fès, we take the road toward Al-Hoceima. The landscape along the way is really unique—lunar, with white hills that look like giant crumpled dunes... A lunar landscape



There’s quite a bit of traffic on this road—big trucks moving very slowly and cars overtaking anywhere... On top of that, the road’s in bad shape, full of rocks and ongoing construction. It feels like driving on corrugated metal—really tough on people and the vehicle (everything shakes inside!). We turn toward Ketama, and luckily, the road gets better... but it’s still rough because Moroccans drive pretty badly, and there are several small, congested towns to get through. We need to find a spot to stop for the night. No campsites around here, and the first place we found isn’t accessible anymore due to major construction. We keep going another 50 km before finding another spot (thanks, P4N). It’s a small pull-off near the road, surrounded by vegetation. The scenery is gorgeous: sloping mountains planted with olive trees and holm oaks, with water down below... It could be worse! In the end, we slept well in this little spot... We heard trucks in the evening, but it quieted down at night. The next morning, kids on their way to school come by for a shy visit. They’re not used to tourists around here. After standing in front of the van for a long time, they finally ask, "Money?" When we say no, they don’t insist...

We hit the road again... It’s still full of construction. There’ve been landslides, and large sections of the road are covered in rubble. Further on, other parts are being repaved, so we get our hopes up—only to hit more construction with big machines, piles of dirt, and rocks everywhere. Plus, we have to deal with big trucks and cars/minibuses overtaking anywhere! Lots of curves—it’s a mountain road, and the edges are often damaged. It’s no picnic, that’s for sure!!!

In the Rif, it’s cannabis harvest season! Around here, it’s grown on a large scale. You can see plantations everywhere—on hillsides, near houses, on the smallest plots... The harvested plants are left to dry in the sun on rooftops, balconies, tarps on the ground, etc... The smell is strong! Kids leaving school walk through the cannabis fumes.

Some men offer us some, but when we refuse, they don’t insist. Cannabis and hay drying side by side!

Ketama: There’s a big souk in town today, and the streets are packed with all kinds of vehicles, pedestrians, and stalls... It’s 10:40 AM, and not all the vendors have finished setting up. Trucks are still arriving, and the fishmongers (coming from the coast?) are just starting to unload their crates... Finally, we manage to cross the main street and park at the edge of town. Then, we head to the market to do our shopping. It’s lively, with everything you could want. Each specialty has its own section—beef, poultry, vegetables, etc...

At the edge of town, there’s even a cannabis producers’ cooperative!

Our journey continues. After Ketama, the road is in good condition. Very winding, it snakes through stunning mountain landscapes. The weather’s beautiful—the sun’s warm, and the cannabis fumes really stand out. The whole mountain smells of it! After lunch, clouds start clinging to the peaks, and soon, we’re surrounded by fog. We’re definitely in the Rif! Luckily, it’s not too dense, and the white line marking the middle of the road is still visible.

We arrive in El Jebha (or El Jebeha). After parking along the port, we go for a walk. It’s an active fishing port with white and blue houses. In the afternoon, there are lots of fish stalls in the streets. Fishermen are grilling sardines on braziers. Many restaurants have barbecues on their terraces and also offer grilled sardines. We buy about ten to take away because it’s 4 PM and we don’t feel like eating sardines at snack time! We’ll enjoy them for dinner.







Here, like everywhere in Morocco, you see cars with a coffee or tea percolator attached to the back.

Where are we going to park for the night?

We discover there’s a small campsite in the village of Thagassa. Thagassa is about ten kilometers from El Jebha. To get there, you have to take a small road that descends very steeply to the bottom of the cliff. At the bottom, there’s a mosque, a few houses, and fishing boats in front of the sea. To reach the campsite, you have to take a rocky, potholed track, crossed by a small wadi, at the end of the village. Yannick goes ahead to scout it out—it should be passable. Let’s go! And we’re glad we did! We’re welcomed warmly. The sea is right in front, and chairs invite us to relax. Perfect! (100 Dh/night) There are already three vans parked in this little secluded spot (a French couple, a German couple, and a solo Belgian).

Relaxing by the sea in Thagassa

The campsite’s little restaurant

Friday, October 10: We’re comfortable here, and the weather is beautiful... We’ll stay for a day of relaxation and sea bathing. It’s a good thing we’re staying today because it’s Friday, and that’s couscous day in Morocco—so also at the campsite’s little restaurant. It’s really excellent and hearty!

The day goes by pleasantly, but in the evening, the weather turns bad. Here comes the rain. Let’s hope we can leave tomorrow without any problems.

Saturday, October 11: It rained heavily with wind all night. We’re worried, but the campsite owner tells us it’ll be fine. He goes ahead to show us the best place to drive. It’s pretty slippery, but we make it—phew! The wadi coming down from the mountain has swollen a lot. The sea is all brown. The waves are carrying mud from the wadi. Impressive. Well, the first obstacle is behind us, as well as another branch of the wadi. But there’s still the very steep, wet road climbing up to the top of the cliff. Fortunately, our van climbs well, and here we are on the road. Phew again!

We follow the coastal road toward Tetouan. It’s raining, and the road is lined with large rocks that have fallen from the surrounding mountains. Not very reassuring! The sea is very rough and full of mud carried down by the wadis flowing strongly. When we pass through a small seaside resort near Oued Laou (maybe Quaa Asserasse?), the street along the coast is cluttered with large piles of earth and stones washed down from the ravined paths behind. Excavators are working to clear the road.

Bad weather this morning—the sea has changed color...

The wadis swelled enormously during the night...

After Oued Laou, the road is no longer covered in dirt, and we arrive in Tetouan around 12:15 PM without any issues.

There’s a lot of traffic in the city. Despite that, we manage to park in a lot at the foot of the medina and head to the restaurant « El Restinga » for lunch. Oddly, there aren’t many restaurants in Tetouan. This place is packed, but there’s still a small table for us. Lucky! It turns out to be really good and affordable—we enjoy an excellent chicken pastilla. A great spot!

White Tetouan

Stroll through the medina: After wandering through several alleys, we take the busy « Rue de Fès ». Lots of vendors selling all sorts of things: food, odds and ends, cosmetics, materials, etc. It’s like a flea market all along « Rue de Fès » until the Souk El Fouki. Near Bab-Sebta, there are tanneries (they seem a bit abandoned now—we visited them in 2009, and they were in better shape). They’re not easy to find, either. We ask several people before finally locating them.

In the medina’s alleys

Rue de Fès, the food section

Near Bab-Sebta, you’ll find the Zaouia of the Derkaoua (a Sufi sanctuary)

The tanneries

The Jewish cemetery climbs up the hill

After running a few errands, we leave Tetouan... We park by the Asmir dam lake. It’s a bit tricky to find a spot because it’s crowded—families are picnicking with their braziers, despite the gray weather.

Just after we manage to park, we spot a young couple in trouble by the lake. Their car got stuck in the mud—they got too close to the marshy shore. We try to help with our recovery boards, but it doesn’t work! Luckily, some other young people come to the rescue, and after pushing hard, they finally get the car out. But now our boards are covered in sticky mud! By evening, everyone leaves. Tomorrow, we’re leaving Morocco. The ferry is scheduled for 1:30 PM. We still have a few days of travel left: driving up Spain with some nice stops along the coast, then crossing France to get home...

I can't believe you went through Ketama. That name alone conjures up some of the best-quality hashish. There was a time when it was pretty risky to even set foot in that area.

Hey Joël, yep, we passed through Ketama. No problem at all—we even wandered the streets where there was a big souk... Some guys offered us hash but didn’t insist. We’d already been to the Rif in 2009, but back then it was pretty close to harassment! Still, we were amazed by how widespread the cultivation is—it’s really everywhere. And the weed smell was something else, no need to smoke!!!

Really nice travel journal. It's great to see one where Safi, Beddouza, and Bhaibiah Beach are visited. We often go to Beddouza—the beach is stunning and huge. We’ve also been to the campsite at Bhaibiah Beach a lot. It’s cool that it’s reopened.

Thanks for enjoying my story... These beaches are indeed really beautiful and not very crowded (at least in September—there must be more people in the summer when it’s hotter, I think...), and we really loved the lovely medina of Safi. We were so sorry to hear about the recent disaster there.