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Unlikely California and Nevada Spots for Artists
Hi there, after 5 trips to the American West, where should we go in May 2025? My last stay in SF ended badly for me (diabetes flare-up, hospitalization after returning to France), but my wife insists on SF and places we haven’t seen yet... so I’ve decided to skip the big parks and head for some offbeat spots instead...
So, SF, then south to the crossroads where James Dean died. No luck—roadworks everywhere, impossible to stop—but I’d noted we could check out the San Andreas Fault near Parkfield and its bar before heading to Bakersfield.








Questions about SUV trails and must-sees for a California road trip
Hi everyone! 🙂
As you can see, we're heading back from September 6th to the 27th.
Everything’s booked for September—flights, accommodations, and the car. As I plan, I’ll be asking the experts for help. This is our second trip to California, but most of the stops are new to us.
We’ll start directly from San Francisco to our first overnight stop, Davis, before heading to Lassen Volcanic Park for 4 nights. Our flight lands at 12:50 PM.
Here’s our itinerary: Day 1: Davis – overnight stop Day 2: Red Bluff – exploring Lassen Volcanic Park (scenic drive to Lake Helen) Day 3: Susanville – scenic drive through the park via the South Entrance, points of interest, and hikes Day 4: Susanville – Cinder Cone and Painted Dunes hike Day 5: Susanville – Warner Valley (hikes) Day 6: South Lake Tahoe Day 7: South Lake Tahoe Day 8: Mammoth Lake Day 9: Mammoth Lake Day 10: El Portal via Tioga Road Day 11: El Portal Day 12: El Portal Day 13: Oakhurst Day 14: Miramonte Day 15: Three Rivers Day 16: Three Rivers Day 17: Coalinga Day 18: Monterey Day 19: Monterey Day 20: San Francisco Day 21: San Francisco Day 22: Departure
For hikes in Lassen Volcanic Park, I’ve planned: Bumpass Hell, Cold Boiling Lake (Day 2) Paradise Meadow (maybe not going all the way), Devastated Area, and the loop around Reflection and Manzanita Lakes (Day 3) Cinder Cone and Painted Dunes (Day 4) Devil’s Kitchen and Boiling Spring Lake (Day 5)
I’ve read there are trails to access the trailheads for Cinder Cone (11 km) and Warner Valley. Are these easy trails for an SUV? Are there any other must-see spots or things we shouldn’t miss?
That’s where I’m at for now. Thanks for your replies, and have a great evening! Marcalamar 🙂
Here’s our itinerary: Day 1: Davis – overnight stop Day 2: Red Bluff – exploring Lassen Volcanic Park (scenic drive to Lake Helen) Day 3: Susanville – scenic drive through the park via the South Entrance, points of interest, and hikes Day 4: Susanville – Cinder Cone and Painted Dunes hike Day 5: Susanville – Warner Valley (hikes) Day 6: South Lake Tahoe Day 7: South Lake Tahoe Day 8: Mammoth Lake Day 9: Mammoth Lake Day 10: El Portal via Tioga Road Day 11: El Portal Day 12: El Portal Day 13: Oakhurst Day 14: Miramonte Day 15: Three Rivers Day 16: Three Rivers Day 17: Coalinga Day 18: Monterey Day 19: Monterey Day 20: San Francisco Day 21: San Francisco Day 22: Departure
For hikes in Lassen Volcanic Park, I’ve planned: Bumpass Hell, Cold Boiling Lake (Day 2) Paradise Meadow (maybe not going all the way), Devastated Area, and the loop around Reflection and Manzanita Lakes (Day 3) Cinder Cone and Painted Dunes (Day 4) Devil’s Kitchen and Boiling Spring Lake (Day 5)
I’ve read there are trails to access the trailheads for Cinder Cone (11 km) and Warner Valley. Are these easy trails for an SUV? Are there any other must-see spots or things we shouldn’t miss?
That’s where I’m at for now. Thanks for your replies, and have a great evening! Marcalamar 🙂
Is there travel insurance for someone who's had a heart attack?
Hi there,
Does anyone know if there’s travel insurance for someone who’s had a heart attack?
I can’t find an insurer that covers a pre-existing condition, even if it’s stable.
Thanks so much!
Upper Antelope Canyon prices
Hi there. I'm shocked by the price of the Upper Antelope Canyon tour—$175 for less than an hour… You might say, "if you can’t afford it…" But the real question is whether it’s really worth it, because $350 for two makes me feel like I’m getting ripped off. For those who’ve done both Lower and Upper, can you tell me if the price difference is really justified? Thanks
Should we really travel to the U.S. and support authoritarian drift?
I’ve visited the U.S. four times myself, including two long road trips. The last one was just this past August...
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
Need info on the road to White Pocket and Reflection Canyon
Hello, if the off-the-beaten-path enthusiasts are still around 😉, I’d love some info on tackling these trails. I’m not super familiar with the rules, risks, or what to expect—I’m looking for firsthand experience from folks who’ve done it on their own once or multiple times.
Where to stay in New York to cut costs?
Hi everyone!
I’m planning a week-long family trip to NYC in October 2026. The focus is on museums and soaking up the New York vibe. I’ve been checking Airbnb, but the prices in Manhattan are through the roof. Since I don’t know NYC well, is it "wise" to look outside Manhattan? Any neighborhoods you’d recommend?
Lisbon/Galveston Transatlantic Review – NCL Viva in The Haven
Hi everyone,
Okay, here I go—I haven’t done a cruise review in ages, and even longer since I’ve posted one on this forum. So, this is kinda your fault, Catherine, if I’m getting back into it... I just hope I haven’t lost my touch!
It’s a transatlantic cruise, so there are a lot of sea days. That means this review will mostly focus on the ship, especially the "Haven" section, which doesn’t get much coverage on this forum. There’ll definitely be some comparisons with MSC’s Yacht Club, since they’re direct competitors.
This will be my third cruise with NCL—a company I really love—but my first in The Haven.
My two previous cruises were on smaller ships: the NCL Sun for the Chilean fjords and the NCL Spirit in February 2025 in Asia, departing from Taiwan and arriving in Korea. I *loved* the Spirit.
Alright, let’s get started!
This trip was booked almost last-minute in early October for late November, after I had to cut short my August trip for medical reasons.
At first, when I looked at this cruise, I hadn’t specifically decided to go for The Haven. I wanted a relaxing cruise but still with destinations I hadn’t been to before. I kinda stumbled upon this one, and the itinerary appealed to me. I also found the balcony cabin price pretty good—around 2800 € for a balcony cabin (for two), all-inclusive package included. Not including flights, of course. In the end, we decided to try The Haven (obviously not the same price), but I think we got a great deal for the promised perks.
Itinerary: Departure from Lisbon, arrival in Galveston, Texas. Stops: St. Martin, St. Thomas, La Romana, Cabo Rojo, Falmouth in Jamaica.
It’s a transatlantic cruise, so there are a lot of sea days. That means this review will mostly focus on the ship, especially the "Haven" section, which doesn’t get much coverage on this forum. There’ll definitely be some comparisons with MSC’s Yacht Club, since they’re direct competitors.
This will be my third cruise with NCL—a company I really love—but my first in The Haven.
My two previous cruises were on smaller ships: the NCL Sun for the Chilean fjords and the NCL Spirit in February 2025 in Asia, departing from Taiwan and arriving in Korea. I *loved* the Spirit.
Alright, let’s get started!
This trip was booked almost last-minute in early October for late November, after I had to cut short my August trip for medical reasons.
At first, when I looked at this cruise, I hadn’t specifically decided to go for The Haven. I wanted a relaxing cruise but still with destinations I hadn’t been to before. I kinda stumbled upon this one, and the itinerary appealed to me. I also found the balcony cabin price pretty good—around 2800 € for a balcony cabin (for two), all-inclusive package included. Not including flights, of course. In the end, we decided to try The Haven (obviously not the same price), but I think we got a great deal for the promised perks.
Itinerary: Departure from Lisbon, arrival in Galveston, Texas. Stops: St. Martin, St. Thomas, La Romana, Cabo Rojo, Falmouth in Jamaica.
Riding Route 66 by Motorcycle with a Disability
Hello,
My dream is to ride Route 66 by motorcycle. I have a disability—while I’m not in a wheelchair, my walking mobility is reduced.
The ideal scenario would be to have a motorcycle driver and ride as their passenger on an organized trip.
Are there any guides or services like this offered by travel agencies?
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Martine from DD in Arizona and New Mexico
Good evening everyone! 🙂
We’re back from our September 2025 road trip, this time to explore Arizona and New Mexico, and it’s time for me to start my travel journal—especially since everything’s already booked for another trip in September 2026 (to California), and I need to get started on the planning.
I was a little worried this new visit to Uncle Sam’s country might not be as "wow" as the others, but we still discovered some incredible places.
For those who don’t know us, we’re a couple in our seventies who speak very little English, but that didn’t stop us from fully enjoying our stay.
For this 6th road trip in the U.S., we spent 21 nights there, drove 4,160 km by car, and walked nearly 160 km in a loop starting from Phoenix.
We’d been to Arizona before (but not this side) and never to New Mexico. This whole road trip was a huge discovery for us.
In the prices mentioned (some in euros, others in dollars), bank fees and exchange charges are included. The flights, car rental, and parking were all paid for in December 2024 when we booked.
We’d downloaded the MPC (Mobile Passport Control) app, but there wasn’t a dedicated line at Phoenix Airport. Still, we got through quickly with friendly, smiling agents.
I don’t drive at all (I hate it), so the stops were chosen based on activities but also, for some, to limit daily mileage for the sole driver. The kilometers listed in the itinerary are the daily distances.
We traveled from September 9th to 22nd, unfortunately once again without our dear friends Mimi and Maumau.
The itinerary

Day 1: Flight Marseille-Paris-Phoenix, then Gold Canyon (133 km) Day 2: Tucson (271 km) Lost Dutchman State Park Day 3: Tucson (155 km) Day 4: Tucson (34 km) Day 5: Bisbee (182 km) Day 6: Lordsburg (345 km) Day 7: Las Cruces (253 km) Day 8: Alamogordo (162 km) Day 9: Roswell (264 km) Day 10: Tucumcari (369 km) Day 11: Las Vegas (281 km) – the one in New Mexico Day 12: Taos (213 km) Day 13: Santa Fe (224 km) Day 14: Albuquerque (123 km) Day 15: Gallup (246 km) Day 16: Holbrook (224 km) Day 17: Flagstaff (179 km) Day 18: Sedona (118 km) Day 19: Sedona (48 km) Day 20: Sedona (41 km) Day 21: Phoenix (256 km) Day 22: Phoenix Airport (35 km)
📊 **Budget**: A little over 7,500 € for both of us, all included. The exchange rate was in our favor (1.17 dollars to 1 €). 📊 **Flights**: Marseille-Paris Charles de Gaulle-Phoenix: 1,787 € for two, with one checked bag each (Air France) 📊 **ESTA**: $42 📊 **America the Beautiful Pass**: $80 📊 **Parking**: 134 € (super eco at Marseille) 📊 **Car rental (Hertz)**: 865 €. Since there were no SUVs left in the reserved category (Nissan Rogue), we got an upgrade (4x4 Ford Explorer). We booked through Air France (15% discount). We’d originally reserved it in December for 1,140 €, but since prices dropped in March, we canceled and rebooked for 865 €. Hertz offers a free Hertz Gold Plus Rewards program, which gives you priority counter service when picking up the car. 📊 **Accommodation**: 2,400 € We stayed in hotels and motels of varying standards (from 60 to 203 € per night, depending on the city), all booked through Booking.com or Hotels.com. Out of 21 nights, only two didn’t include breakfast in the price. Booking.com sometimes offers slightly cheaper rates if you book by phone using the mobile app, and our Genius 3 status on the site also got us some preferential rates. 📊 **Supplementary insurance**: AVA 200 € for medical care if needed 📊 **Cash**: $2,078. We left with 1,000 € exchanged before departure and made two withdrawals of $500. This cash covered: - Evening restaurants and tips - Midday picnics - Gas: $298 for 4,160 km - Museum and private park entries (per person): - Lost Dutchman: $10 - Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum: $28 - Bird Cage Theater: $16 - Tombstone Shootout: $8 - New Mexico Farm & Ranch Museum: $12 - Roswell International UFO Museum: $5 - Billy the Kid Museum: $7 - Rancho de Taos: $22 - West Fork Oak Creek Trail entry: $15 We got a few discounts thanks to our senior age (+65). - Souvenirs and little treats
Like on our previous road trips, we didn’t rent a GPS. We got around using offline GPS apps Here WeGo and Organic Maps, with maps of the states we visited downloaded before we left (on our phones).
❤️❤️❤️ **Highlights** (there are so many!) 📍 Goldfield Ghost Town (even if it’s a reconstruction) 📍 The standing army of Saguaro cacti at Saguaro National Park West 📍 Diving into the cowboy universe of Tombstone 📍 The welcome from Rick and Henry at our guesthouse in Bisbee (Garden at Mile High Ranch) 📍 The tangled rocks of Chiricahua National Monument 📍 The flavored pistachios from Dwayne’s Fresh Jerky and Mac Ginnis Pistachioland 📍 Restaurants: La Posta (Las Cruces), Diner 66 (Albuquerque), and the Haunted Hamburger (Jerome) 📍 The old plazas of New Mexico 📍 The solitude and beauty of the white dunes at White Sands National Park 📍 Stepping back in time at the Billy the Kid Museum (Fort Stanton) 📍 Sections of historic Route 66 and the old motels of Tucumcari, especially at night when all the neon lights are on 📍 Taos Pueblo and diving into Native American culture 📍 After the Rio Grande Bridge, the descent via NM 567 to the very bottom of the Rio Grande Gorge, then the road along the riverbanks to Taos 📍 The tranquility of the Chimayo Sanctuary 📍 Discovering the ingenious native dwellings at Bandelier National Monument and Walnut Canyon National Park 📍 The small towns along the Turquoise Trail 📍 The red rocks of Red Rock Park and the Painted Desert 📍 The extraordinary colors of the petrified trees at Petrified Forest National Park 📍 Sedona, its red rocks, and the reward of the viewpoints at the end of hikes (Devil’s Bridge, The Subway, and West Fork Oak Creek) 📍 The immersion in Mexico when visiting Tlaquepaque 📍 The almost-ghost town of Jerome and its terraced streets 📍 The incredible kindness of Americans, always ready to help and up for a chat ❤️
☹️☹️☹️ **Flops** (there are very few) 📍 Several museums and churches being closed, so we couldn’t visit them 📍 Some museums and visitor centers opening late (10 AM) and closing early (4 PM) 📍 A 64 € phone roaming charge because we got near the Mexican border and picked up their cell tower 📍 The outrageous price ($5.99) for a gallon of gas at the Shell near Phoenix Airport
I hope this helps! Anyway, thanks for reading my long post. Don’t hesitate to reach out, even via PM, if you see I haven’t replied and you’d like more details. Have a great evening, everyone! 🙂
We’re back from our September 2025 road trip, this time to explore Arizona and New Mexico, and it’s time for me to start my travel journal—especially since everything’s already booked for another trip in September 2026 (to California), and I need to get started on the planning.
I was a little worried this new visit to Uncle Sam’s country might not be as "wow" as the others, but we still discovered some incredible places.
For those who don’t know us, we’re a couple in our seventies who speak very little English, but that didn’t stop us from fully enjoying our stay.
For this 6th road trip in the U.S., we spent 21 nights there, drove 4,160 km by car, and walked nearly 160 km in a loop starting from Phoenix.
We’d been to Arizona before (but not this side) and never to New Mexico. This whole road trip was a huge discovery for us.
In the prices mentioned (some in euros, others in dollars), bank fees and exchange charges are included. The flights, car rental, and parking were all paid for in December 2024 when we booked.
We’d downloaded the MPC (Mobile Passport Control) app, but there wasn’t a dedicated line at Phoenix Airport. Still, we got through quickly with friendly, smiling agents.
I don’t drive at all (I hate it), so the stops were chosen based on activities but also, for some, to limit daily mileage for the sole driver. The kilometers listed in the itinerary are the daily distances.
We traveled from September 9th to 22nd, unfortunately once again without our dear friends Mimi and Maumau.
The itinerary

Day 1: Flight Marseille-Paris-Phoenix, then Gold Canyon (133 km) Day 2: Tucson (271 km) Lost Dutchman State Park Day 3: Tucson (155 km) Day 4: Tucson (34 km) Day 5: Bisbee (182 km) Day 6: Lordsburg (345 km) Day 7: Las Cruces (253 km) Day 8: Alamogordo (162 km) Day 9: Roswell (264 km) Day 10: Tucumcari (369 km) Day 11: Las Vegas (281 km) – the one in New Mexico Day 12: Taos (213 km) Day 13: Santa Fe (224 km) Day 14: Albuquerque (123 km) Day 15: Gallup (246 km) Day 16: Holbrook (224 km) Day 17: Flagstaff (179 km) Day 18: Sedona (118 km) Day 19: Sedona (48 km) Day 20: Sedona (41 km) Day 21: Phoenix (256 km) Day 22: Phoenix Airport (35 km)
📊 **Budget**: A little over 7,500 € for both of us, all included. The exchange rate was in our favor (1.17 dollars to 1 €). 📊 **Flights**: Marseille-Paris Charles de Gaulle-Phoenix: 1,787 € for two, with one checked bag each (Air France) 📊 **ESTA**: $42 📊 **America the Beautiful Pass**: $80 📊 **Parking**: 134 € (super eco at Marseille) 📊 **Car rental (Hertz)**: 865 €. Since there were no SUVs left in the reserved category (Nissan Rogue), we got an upgrade (4x4 Ford Explorer). We booked through Air France (15% discount). We’d originally reserved it in December for 1,140 €, but since prices dropped in March, we canceled and rebooked for 865 €. Hertz offers a free Hertz Gold Plus Rewards program, which gives you priority counter service when picking up the car. 📊 **Accommodation**: 2,400 € We stayed in hotels and motels of varying standards (from 60 to 203 € per night, depending on the city), all booked through Booking.com or Hotels.com. Out of 21 nights, only two didn’t include breakfast in the price. Booking.com sometimes offers slightly cheaper rates if you book by phone using the mobile app, and our Genius 3 status on the site also got us some preferential rates. 📊 **Supplementary insurance**: AVA 200 € for medical care if needed 📊 **Cash**: $2,078. We left with 1,000 € exchanged before departure and made two withdrawals of $500. This cash covered: - Evening restaurants and tips - Midday picnics - Gas: $298 for 4,160 km - Museum and private park entries (per person): - Lost Dutchman: $10 - Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum: $28 - Bird Cage Theater: $16 - Tombstone Shootout: $8 - New Mexico Farm & Ranch Museum: $12 - Roswell International UFO Museum: $5 - Billy the Kid Museum: $7 - Rancho de Taos: $22 - West Fork Oak Creek Trail entry: $15 We got a few discounts thanks to our senior age (+65). - Souvenirs and little treats
Like on our previous road trips, we didn’t rent a GPS. We got around using offline GPS apps Here WeGo and Organic Maps, with maps of the states we visited downloaded before we left (on our phones).
❤️❤️❤️ **Highlights** (there are so many!) 📍 Goldfield Ghost Town (even if it’s a reconstruction) 📍 The standing army of Saguaro cacti at Saguaro National Park West 📍 Diving into the cowboy universe of Tombstone 📍 The welcome from Rick and Henry at our guesthouse in Bisbee (Garden at Mile High Ranch) 📍 The tangled rocks of Chiricahua National Monument 📍 The flavored pistachios from Dwayne’s Fresh Jerky and Mac Ginnis Pistachioland 📍 Restaurants: La Posta (Las Cruces), Diner 66 (Albuquerque), and the Haunted Hamburger (Jerome) 📍 The old plazas of New Mexico 📍 The solitude and beauty of the white dunes at White Sands National Park 📍 Stepping back in time at the Billy the Kid Museum (Fort Stanton) 📍 Sections of historic Route 66 and the old motels of Tucumcari, especially at night when all the neon lights are on 📍 Taos Pueblo and diving into Native American culture 📍 After the Rio Grande Bridge, the descent via NM 567 to the very bottom of the Rio Grande Gorge, then the road along the riverbanks to Taos 📍 The tranquility of the Chimayo Sanctuary 📍 Discovering the ingenious native dwellings at Bandelier National Monument and Walnut Canyon National Park 📍 The small towns along the Turquoise Trail 📍 The red rocks of Red Rock Park and the Painted Desert 📍 The extraordinary colors of the petrified trees at Petrified Forest National Park 📍 Sedona, its red rocks, and the reward of the viewpoints at the end of hikes (Devil’s Bridge, The Subway, and West Fork Oak Creek) 📍 The immersion in Mexico when visiting Tlaquepaque 📍 The almost-ghost town of Jerome and its terraced streets 📍 The incredible kindness of Americans, always ready to help and up for a chat ❤️
☹️☹️☹️ **Flops** (there are very few) 📍 Several museums and churches being closed, so we couldn’t visit them 📍 Some museums and visitor centers opening late (10 AM) and closing early (4 PM) 📍 A 64 € phone roaming charge because we got near the Mexican border and picked up their cell tower 📍 The outrageous price ($5.99) for a gallon of gas at the Shell near Phoenix Airport
I hope this helps! Anyway, thanks for reading my long post. Don’t hesitate to reach out, even via PM, if you see I haven’t replied and you’d like more details. Have a great evening, everyone! 🙂
Bryce Canyon in pictures
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpks5X1WYt8
Winter is here. It's that time of year when we sort through our photos. Bryce Canyon in pictures. It's one of the most iconic sites in the USA.
Winter is here. It's that time of year when we sort through our photos. Bryce Canyon in pictures. It's one of the most iconic sites in the USA.
Feedback on West American Itinerary
Hello,
After our first trip to the West, we’d love to go back to see other must-see spots!
The stay would be from May 11 to 20, 2026—it’s short, but hey...
M11: Lyon to Las Vegas (overnight in Vegas) T12: Route 66 – overnight in Grand Canyon (GC) W13: Visit GC – overnight in Page Th14: Visit Antelope Canyon / Horseshoe Bend – overnight in Monument Valley (MV) F15: Visit MV – overnight in Moab Sa16: Visit Arches / Dead Horse Point – overnight in Bryce Su17: Visit Bryce – overnight in Zion M18: Visit Zion / Valley of Fire – overnight in Vegas Tu19: Return flight
What do you think? Could we add one more night somewhere? We’re not big hikers, so we’ll mostly explore the parks using shuttles.
Also, we’re all set—passports are good. Do you think one classic Visa card and one premium Visa card will be enough for coverage?
Thanks so much for your feedback, and happy holidays!
Christophe
After our first trip to the West, we’d love to go back to see other must-see spots!
The stay would be from May 11 to 20, 2026—it’s short, but hey...
M11: Lyon to Las Vegas (overnight in Vegas) T12: Route 66 – overnight in Grand Canyon (GC) W13: Visit GC – overnight in Page Th14: Visit Antelope Canyon / Horseshoe Bend – overnight in Monument Valley (MV) F15: Visit MV – overnight in Moab Sa16: Visit Arches / Dead Horse Point – overnight in Bryce Su17: Visit Bryce – overnight in Zion M18: Visit Zion / Valley of Fire – overnight in Vegas Tu19: Return flight
What do you think? Could we add one more night somewhere? We’re not big hikers, so we’ll mostly explore the parks using shuttles.
Also, we’re all set—passports are good. Do you think one classic Visa card and one premium Visa card will be enough for coverage?
Thanks so much for your feedback, and happy holidays!
Christophe
How can I tell the difference between cable cars and trams in San Francisco?
Hi VF community,
I’m planning a week in S.F. in April 2026 and I can’t figure out how to tell the cable cars—of which I understand there are three lines—apart from the trams, which I think number seven. I can’t find their individual numbers or routes anywhere.
Could someone shed some light on this for me? Thanks in advance.
Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a wonderful 2026 full of amazing travels. Cheers, Régine
I’m planning a week in S.F. in April 2026 and I can’t figure out how to tell the cable cars—of which I understand there are three lines—apart from the trams, which I think number seven. I can’t find their individual numbers or routes anywhere.
Could someone shed some light on this for me? Thanks in advance.
Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a wonderful 2026 full of amazing travels. Cheers, Régine
Can you buy the national parks pass online in advance?
Hi,
I’m planning a road trip through the American national parks starting from Denver in June 2026.
The price of the pass is jumping from 80 € to 250 € on January 1st, 2026!!!
Is it possible to buy the pass online before the end of the year to lock in the 80 € rate? If so, where and how do I go about it?
Thanks for your tips.
Arnale
Changes to the ESTA process: will I have to redo everything?
Hi there,
I have a valid ESTA for a trip planned on 2/23/2026.
However, I heard on the radio that a new law will be implemented in two months requiring travelers to provide information about their social media activity in addition to the ESTA.
My question is: will my current ESTA no longer allow me to enter the U.S.?
However, I heard on the radio that a new law will be implemented in two months requiring travelers to provide information about their social media activity in addition to the ESTA.
My question is: will my current ESTA no longer allow me to enter the U.S.?
Our experience in the American West with a French-speaking guide
Hey everyone!
We just finished 9 days in the American West and wanted to share our experience because we had an amazing time.
I know some of you might ask, why use an agency? Honestly, we didn’t really feel like doing all the driving and planning, especially since we didn’t know the area at all. And since our English isn’t great, having French-speaking guides was a big comfort.
We found Emmanuelle and Isabelle, and wow, they were fantastic. It was just the two of us with them, so it was a truly VIP, ultra-personalized experience. They treated us like royalty from start to finish. These two live in Las Vegas and know the region like the back of their hand. They told us they’ve spent over 15 years exploring every corner of the American West, and it really shows. Their knowledge of geology, park history, and local anecdotes is just impressive. It’s nothing like someone reciting a memorized script. They answer all your questions and really adapt to what you want to see or do.
What we really loved: the vehicle was super comfortable, and the little details made a difference—like snacks and even a homemade cake! Though, to be fair, we devoured the cake right away, so that counts.
Since they know the sites inside out, they took us at the right times to avoid crowds. So we could enjoy peaceful picnics at Grand Canyon viewpoints without being packed in with 200 people. Plus, on top of the must-see spots, they showed us some hidden gems that were absolutely stunning—places we never would’ve found on our own. They’re true locals who know all the best tips.
The service was really personalized. They adapted to our pace and preferences, and we could stop whenever we wanted to take photos. It’s the luxury of being in a small private group—you’re not just a number on a big bus. In short, we really felt like we were traveling with friends rather than professional guides. Everything’s included in the price (hotel pickup, meals, park entries, etc.), so the value for money is fair.
We loved it so much that we’re already planning to come back next year to explore other areas with them. I think we’ve caught the American West bug—it’s all we can think about, and we can’t wait to return.
If you’re looking for a French-speaking tour with real personalized service and guides who know the region like no one else, we highly recommend them. We had unforgettable moments. They also design road trips for those who don’t want a guide. And they handled our hotel reservations in Las Vegas too. If you want genuine advice from friendly locals, we’re giving them a 200% recommendation!
We just finished 9 days in the American West and wanted to share our experience because we had an amazing time.
I know some of you might ask, why use an agency? Honestly, we didn’t really feel like doing all the driving and planning, especially since we didn’t know the area at all. And since our English isn’t great, having French-speaking guides was a big comfort.
We found Emmanuelle and Isabelle, and wow, they were fantastic. It was just the two of us with them, so it was a truly VIP, ultra-personalized experience. They treated us like royalty from start to finish. These two live in Las Vegas and know the region like the back of their hand. They told us they’ve spent over 15 years exploring every corner of the American West, and it really shows. Their knowledge of geology, park history, and local anecdotes is just impressive. It’s nothing like someone reciting a memorized script. They answer all your questions and really adapt to what you want to see or do.
What we really loved: the vehicle was super comfortable, and the little details made a difference—like snacks and even a homemade cake! Though, to be fair, we devoured the cake right away, so that counts.
Since they know the sites inside out, they took us at the right times to avoid crowds. So we could enjoy peaceful picnics at Grand Canyon viewpoints without being packed in with 200 people. Plus, on top of the must-see spots, they showed us some hidden gems that were absolutely stunning—places we never would’ve found on our own. They’re true locals who know all the best tips.
The service was really personalized. They adapted to our pace and preferences, and we could stop whenever we wanted to take photos. It’s the luxury of being in a small private group—you’re not just a number on a big bus. In short, we really felt like we were traveling with friends rather than professional guides. Everything’s included in the price (hotel pickup, meals, park entries, etc.), so the value for money is fair.
We loved it so much that we’re already planning to come back next year to explore other areas with them. I think we’ve caught the American West bug—it’s all we can think about, and we can’t wait to return.
If you’re looking for a French-speaking tour with real personalized service and guides who know the region like no one else, we highly recommend them. We had unforgettable moments. They also design road trips for those who don’t want a guide. And they handled our hotel reservations in Las Vegas too. If you want genuine advice from friendly locals, we’re giving them a 200% recommendation!
Annual National Parks Pass
Hi everyone.
I assume many of you already know, but the America the Beautiful annual pass, which was $80, will increase to $250 starting January 1, 2026.
So if you're planning to travel before the end of December 2026, it's in your best interest to buy your pass in December 2025, since it will still cost $80 and be valid until the end of December 2026 if you purchase it in December 2025.
This price increase only applies to non-U.S. residents.
Additionally, for those who planned to visit just one park, a $100 surcharge per person will apply to access a list of 11 national parks... For example, if there are 4 of you in a car, you’ll have to pay $35 + $400, which comes to $435 to visit one of the 11 parks on the list (I don’t have all of them... Bryce, Zion, Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, etc.). Total madness.
The goal is to push people who only visit one park into buying the annual pass.
Last point: free entry days are over for non-residents!
That’s all for now.
I assume many of you already know, but the America the Beautiful annual pass, which was $80, will increase to $250 starting January 1, 2026.
So if you're planning to travel before the end of December 2026, it's in your best interest to buy your pass in December 2025, since it will still cost $80 and be valid until the end of December 2026 if you purchase it in December 2025.
This price increase only applies to non-U.S. residents.
Additionally, for those who planned to visit just one park, a $100 surcharge per person will apply to access a list of 11 national parks... For example, if there are 4 of you in a car, you’ll have to pay $35 + $400, which comes to $435 to visit one of the 11 parks on the list (I don’t have all of them... Bryce, Zion, Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, etc.). Total madness.
The goal is to push people who only visit one park into buying the annual pass.
Last point: free entry days are over for non-residents!
That’s all for now.
Looking for great hotel recommendations in Los Angeles, Las Vegas, and San Francisco
Hello,
I’m currently looking for well-located hotels near points of interest in the cities below. I’ve found a few, but the prices are really high. Could any of you share some great addresses in the following cities? - Los Angeles - Las Vegas - San Francisco
Also, do you have a preferred airline for domestic flights? If so, which one?
Thanks so much, and have a great day, everyone!
Gertjan
I’m currently looking for well-located hotels near points of interest in the cities below. I’ve found a few, but the prices are really high. Could any of you share some great addresses in the following cities? - Los Angeles - Las Vegas - San Francisco
Also, do you have a preferred airline for domestic flights? If so, which one?
Thanks so much, and have a great day, everyone!
Gertjan
15-Day Road Trip Recap: Colorado and New Mexico
Hello, here’s a totally subjective recap of our 15-day road trip between Colorado and New Mexico, from late September to mid-October.
Our main interests are culture, museums, and landscapes—no hiking or trails for us. Personally, I’m pretty contemplative, and luckily, there’s always something to see out there! We’re pretty used to the US; we’ve been going there often for a long time (let’s just say we’re not exactly young anymore).
Budget: Even though we don’t set a strict budget beforehand, we try to keep costs as low as possible. This time, we managed to spend around 4000 € for two, all included. To do this: avoid expensive accommodations, staying between 60 and 120 € per night with an average of 90 €/night, mixing Airbnb and motels. And skip the “real” restaurants, which are pretty pricey in the US: sandwiches for lunch, takeout or cooking in the Airbnb in the evening. We shop at Sprouts or Whole Foods—organic-style chains that are pricier than Walmart but better. In the evenings, Sprouts has discounts on items that didn’t sell during the day. Also, avoid toll roads, paid parking, and overly expensive attractions or sites. The dispensary budget is separate…
Route: Denver/Colorado Springs/Alamosa/Raton/Santa Fe/Cuba/Cortez/Grand Junction/Glenwood Springs/Denver This wasn’t too planned in advance—we booked a few nights upon arrival and went with the flow. Flight from CDG to Denver with AF/Delta, car rental at Dollar for a standard SUV. The guy at the Dollar counter upsold me on extra insurance for flat tires (and since I knew we’d be off-roading, I took it). Without telling me, he upgraded me to a Jeep Sahara 4X4 Hybrid. Nice.
Listening to the news upon arrival, the anchor announced, “It’s officially fall now.” We hadn’t really thought about that before leaving, but yeah—it’s the time when the trees turn fluorescent yellow and red. Amazing.
Colorado Springs: Garden of the Gods is a free park with paved trails winding through red/orange rock formations. Magical at sunrise—groups of deer roam around, along with birds and rabbits. It’s small but wow! Didn’t try the Manitou Incline in Manitou Springs, a staircase with thousands of steps going straight up the mountain. Impressive from the bottom, but the parking is paid, which is a downside for those willing to tackle it. The Cog Railway goes up to the summit of Pikes Peak—around $100 when we were there. No thanks. And of course, the parking is paid too. For fans, Maggie’s Farm dispensary is great.
On Route 24, Eleven Mile Canyon Recreation Area is fly-fishing paradise—just like in the movie *A River Runs Through It*. Entry is $11, and a trail follows the river at the bottom of the canyon to the dam. Dozens of people in waders are in the water, casting their lines over and over. You can see the salmon in the clear water, and we had a picnic in the sun, imagining Brad Pitt catching a fish.
Buena Vista: A cute little tourist town with an Outdoor Fair that day—some pretty impressive vehicles for sale, set up for mountain living (like Juniper outfitting a RAM).
Alamosa: The closest town to Great Sand Dunes National Park, crossed by the Rio Grande (and let’s be real—it’s more of a stream than a river!). Park access was free because it was National Park Day. A park with massive dunes—climbing them is pretty exhausting, with lots of wind and sinking sand. Glad we didn’t do it in summer; I can’t imagine how tough it’d be in the heat. It’s a bit deceptive: it looks easy to get to the top of a dune, but it’s really not. The campsites were nice, and it was busy that weekend. We passed the “Point of No Return,” a sandy trail winding through the hills and connecting to Route 559 from above. Didn’t go all the way, but it’s possible the entrance is free from that side. However, you need a 4X4 with good ground clearance. After 1 or 2 km on the trail, you’re alone between the dunes and hills—hardly anyone around. But tricky to turn around or pass other vehicles; the trail isn’t wide. We crossed paths with a Hanomag (registered in the Netherlands—impressive!) coming down without stopping, or risking getting stuck.
On the way out, we took the small Route 403, which quickly turns into a trail crossing the mountain. Entire sections of forest were turning fluorescent yellow with patches of green and red—an incredible sight.
Raton: A small town that probably peaked in the late 19th century and has been in slow decline ever since. The Raton Pass Motor Inn is the kind of place that makes the US legendary—entirely 50s and 60s decor, really well done. I had the Betty Page room—too cool. Felt like we were on Route 66. Even better.
Santa Fe: A small city with no high-rises—almost all low-rise buildings, many in adobe, blending perfectly into the landscape. The old downtown is touristy but nice, with its plaza and church. There’s a really cool vibe—we loved it. For drinks, the bar at the top of La Fonda Hotel was packed for sunset, with a diverse crowd. Not overpriced for the location. SITE Santa Fe is a contemporary art space near the train station. It’s free, and the temporary exhibit was really good—high quality. Museum Hill is, as the name suggests, where several museums are located. We visited the Museum of Indian Art and Culture—great if you’re into “First Nations” history. Saw The Dandy Warhols at The Bridge—an outdoor venue, one of the last concerts of the season before winter makes it too cold. Oddly, there was no bag check, just an ID required (even though it was obvious we were over 21!). Tickets were reasonable, around $30 (concerts in the US can be crazy expensive). The band was good, with fewer than 300 people in front. A sign at the bar warned: Don’t forget you’re at 1,500 meters—alcohol hits harder up here!
Albuquerque: A sprawling city with an old historic center that feels a bit like Disneyland—too perfect for my taste. The real highlight is the Sandia Peak Tramway, which goes up to the old ski resort above the city. Tickets are around $35, and it’s worth it—the ride over the canyons is pretty wild. The ski resort is a bit abandoned; apparently, like elsewhere, there’s no snow anymore. I asked several people about the lack of snow, and the answer was always the same: “It’s cyclical.” Okay then. We arrived for the start of the International Balloon Fiesta (one of the world’s largest hot-air balloon gatherings), hoping to see hundreds of balloons in the sky. Nope—windy today, so no one took off. Bummer.
Las Vegas: New Mexico has its own Las Vegas, but it’s nothing like the other one—a sleepy little town with a perfectly preserved 19th-century Historic Plaza Hotel, brick buildings, and vintage streetlights. Everything is so well-preserved it’s often used as a filming location. NM attracts a lot of productions thanks to tax incentives and its Western landscapes—and it’s cheaper than California! That day, a huge Texas flag was flying in the wind: they were filming the second season of *Ransom Canyon* for Netflix in the town center. If we’d been dressed more “Western,” we could’ve been extras.
Jemez Springs: Its Jemez Hot Springs is super cute—several thermal pools at different temperatures, a New Age vibe. The pools are surrounded by big rocks, and you’re asked to speak softly. A place where you could spend hours. $50 for two hours for two.
Los Alamos: A town made legendary by the bomb, the movie, etc. Heads up: It’s still a research center, and to cross part of the town, you need to show ID. No stopping or taking photos allowed. Other than the Oppenheimer House (currently closed—only the neighboring house is open to visitors), there’s not much to see. There’s a replica of the camp entrance, but it’s been turned into restrooms.
Georgia O’Keeffe Trail (American painter, 1887–1986): Her museum in Santa Fe is pretty good, even if they don’t have tons of works. Entry is $20. Her house in Abiquiu is open for visits, but it’s way overpriced at $65. So we skipped it. You can get an idea of it by stopping at the Welcome Center on Route 84. Further down the same road, Ghost Ranch is worth a visit—beautiful setting, free to enter, with trails to explore and a great atmosphere.
Chaco Culture National Historical Park: A pretty isolated park—25 km of trails to get there, with only a small section paved. The road is decent except for the last few kilometers, which have potholes. I can’t imagine it being accessible after rain, though that doesn’t happen often! This park, in the middle of a desert plain with a few canyons, is one of the rare places where you can find multi-story structures from pre-Columbian civilizations—so, before the “current” tribes. But cruel disappointment: it’s been shut down for a few days. We met a Native ranger—tall, with long hair—who explained that even though he wasn’t being paid, he was still guarding the park and had closed all access to the sites. Darn. Turned around and headed back down the trail.
Same story in the next town, Aztec (a funny name, right?): Aztec Ruins National Monument was closed too.
We passed Ship Rock, the Navajo’s sacred mountain—really impressive. Couldn’t find a trail to get closer, but it’s better from a distance anyway! The town of Shiprock itself is pretty depressing—poor living conditions for some Natives, with rundown mobile homes and piles of junk cars.
Stopped in Cortez to visit Mesa Verde National Park. Ate at Denny’s—hadn’t been there in ages (though it’s the kind of place I should feel at home in!). The customers all looked like they’d stepped out of *The Addams Family*—a little creepy. Or funny, depending on your perspective. For Mesa Verde, after discussing it on this forum with the honorable member Caussat (who didn’t find it that amazing), we were on the fence. Problem solved: it was closed too. Back on the road.
Durango: Really nice with its Main Ave and its shops, cafés—touristy but with local life. Famous for its tourist train to Silverton, but we didn’t do it—way too expensive. Choice between a steam locomotive or diesel (which belches black, stinky smoke—yuck). The diesel should be replaced with electric as soon as they get the funds.
Million Dollar Highway: The road winds through the mountains, and every turn (and there are a lot) is breathtaking—unbelievable landscapes with fluorescent yellow, green, and snow-capped mountains. Just wow.
Silverton: A Western town nestled between two mountains, preserved in its original state despite the tourists arriving by train. Around it, abandoned mines and old wooden ties—must’ve been tough for the 19th-century miners.
Grand Junction: The city is surrounded by giant mesas—pretty impressive. The old downtown is *too* clean—almost sterile.
Colorado National Monument: Just outside the city, a winding road climbs between stunning canyons, with sweeping views of the valley. Entry was free that day due to the shutdown.
Route 330, which we took to get back to the highway, passes through a place called “Cowboy Country”—and it’s true. We saw guys in Stetsons with huge pickups, the road turned into a trail with cows wandering on it, and we had to honk to get them to move. The trail to I-70 was full of potholes—the 4X4 came in handy. Had a picnic by Vega Reservoir: the booth at the entrance was empty, but people left cash in envelopes for camping fees. Anyone passing by could’ve taken it, but it’s an example of US trust and honesty!
Glenwood Springs: A small town famous for its hot springs pool—they claim it’s the largest in the world. I don’t know about that, but it has a great look. Unfortunately, it was closed for maintenance those days! Blew our budget by staying at the Hotel Colorado, a huge 1893 building with a real atmosphere in its grand lobby and fake fireplaces. Fire pits in front of wooden chairs in the garden with mountain views—just really great.
Aspen: The billionaires’ ski resort, but surprisingly, parking was free for 2 hours. Rare to see a place for the super-rich that doesn’t scream “not for you” (like Palm Beach, for example). A former mining town completely redone, every shop occupied by a luxury brand. There’s even a thrift shop run by sweet retirees—funny as hell. Two ski lifts to start directly with your skis, but we didn’t see the price—they were still closed. Lots of houses that aren’t huge but are cute, though looking at real estate prices made us think, “Is there an extra zero on that listing?” A 6-bedroom villa for $52 million? Wow. The mountains around are gorgeous—no wonder it became what it is.
Another fancy resort nearby: Vail, more modern in its construction. The restaurants opted for a “Schwarzwald” decor—kind of odd.
Denver: Nothing really stood out for us in this city, except the Design Museum—the Kirkland, where a local painter collected furniture and supplies from Arts and Crafts to Postmodern. Just really great. Entry is included with a visit to the Denver Art Museum, which has diverse collections—from Impressionism (they have a Manet, a Van Gogh, a Cézanne, several Sisleys) to photography. The best part for me was the “Ancient Americas” totems—huge, impressive wooden sculptures, painted, the kind you’re more used to seeing in Polynesia or Easter Island. Personally, I didn’t know Natives made them too. That’s what museums are for!
Back at the airport, where I had to tag my own luggage (you have to do everything yourself with these US airlines). The tag said SLC/CDG! But we were supposed to connect through JFK. Turns out, they’d put us on a DEN/SLC/CDG flight without telling us. In the end, we gained 30 minutes on our original arrival time in Paris!
There you go—hope this inspires other travelers! !
Our main interests are culture, museums, and landscapes—no hiking or trails for us. Personally, I’m pretty contemplative, and luckily, there’s always something to see out there! We’re pretty used to the US; we’ve been going there often for a long time (let’s just say we’re not exactly young anymore).
Budget: Even though we don’t set a strict budget beforehand, we try to keep costs as low as possible. This time, we managed to spend around 4000 € for two, all included. To do this: avoid expensive accommodations, staying between 60 and 120 € per night with an average of 90 €/night, mixing Airbnb and motels. And skip the “real” restaurants, which are pretty pricey in the US: sandwiches for lunch, takeout or cooking in the Airbnb in the evening. We shop at Sprouts or Whole Foods—organic-style chains that are pricier than Walmart but better. In the evenings, Sprouts has discounts on items that didn’t sell during the day. Also, avoid toll roads, paid parking, and overly expensive attractions or sites. The dispensary budget is separate…
Route: Denver/Colorado Springs/Alamosa/Raton/Santa Fe/Cuba/Cortez/Grand Junction/Glenwood Springs/Denver This wasn’t too planned in advance—we booked a few nights upon arrival and went with the flow. Flight from CDG to Denver with AF/Delta, car rental at Dollar for a standard SUV. The guy at the Dollar counter upsold me on extra insurance for flat tires (and since I knew we’d be off-roading, I took it). Without telling me, he upgraded me to a Jeep Sahara 4X4 Hybrid. Nice.
Listening to the news upon arrival, the anchor announced, “It’s officially fall now.” We hadn’t really thought about that before leaving, but yeah—it’s the time when the trees turn fluorescent yellow and red. Amazing.
Colorado Springs: Garden of the Gods is a free park with paved trails winding through red/orange rock formations. Magical at sunrise—groups of deer roam around, along with birds and rabbits. It’s small but wow! Didn’t try the Manitou Incline in Manitou Springs, a staircase with thousands of steps going straight up the mountain. Impressive from the bottom, but the parking is paid, which is a downside for those willing to tackle it. The Cog Railway goes up to the summit of Pikes Peak—around $100 when we were there. No thanks. And of course, the parking is paid too. For fans, Maggie’s Farm dispensary is great.
On Route 24, Eleven Mile Canyon Recreation Area is fly-fishing paradise—just like in the movie *A River Runs Through It*. Entry is $11, and a trail follows the river at the bottom of the canyon to the dam. Dozens of people in waders are in the water, casting their lines over and over. You can see the salmon in the clear water, and we had a picnic in the sun, imagining Brad Pitt catching a fish.
Buena Vista: A cute little tourist town with an Outdoor Fair that day—some pretty impressive vehicles for sale, set up for mountain living (like Juniper outfitting a RAM).
Alamosa: The closest town to Great Sand Dunes National Park, crossed by the Rio Grande (and let’s be real—it’s more of a stream than a river!). Park access was free because it was National Park Day. A park with massive dunes—climbing them is pretty exhausting, with lots of wind and sinking sand. Glad we didn’t do it in summer; I can’t imagine how tough it’d be in the heat. It’s a bit deceptive: it looks easy to get to the top of a dune, but it’s really not. The campsites were nice, and it was busy that weekend. We passed the “Point of No Return,” a sandy trail winding through the hills and connecting to Route 559 from above. Didn’t go all the way, but it’s possible the entrance is free from that side. However, you need a 4X4 with good ground clearance. After 1 or 2 km on the trail, you’re alone between the dunes and hills—hardly anyone around. But tricky to turn around or pass other vehicles; the trail isn’t wide. We crossed paths with a Hanomag (registered in the Netherlands—impressive!) coming down without stopping, or risking getting stuck.
On the way out, we took the small Route 403, which quickly turns into a trail crossing the mountain. Entire sections of forest were turning fluorescent yellow with patches of green and red—an incredible sight.
Raton: A small town that probably peaked in the late 19th century and has been in slow decline ever since. The Raton Pass Motor Inn is the kind of place that makes the US legendary—entirely 50s and 60s decor, really well done. I had the Betty Page room—too cool. Felt like we were on Route 66. Even better.
Santa Fe: A small city with no high-rises—almost all low-rise buildings, many in adobe, blending perfectly into the landscape. The old downtown is touristy but nice, with its plaza and church. There’s a really cool vibe—we loved it. For drinks, the bar at the top of La Fonda Hotel was packed for sunset, with a diverse crowd. Not overpriced for the location. SITE Santa Fe is a contemporary art space near the train station. It’s free, and the temporary exhibit was really good—high quality. Museum Hill is, as the name suggests, where several museums are located. We visited the Museum of Indian Art and Culture—great if you’re into “First Nations” history. Saw The Dandy Warhols at The Bridge—an outdoor venue, one of the last concerts of the season before winter makes it too cold. Oddly, there was no bag check, just an ID required (even though it was obvious we were over 21!). Tickets were reasonable, around $30 (concerts in the US can be crazy expensive). The band was good, with fewer than 300 people in front. A sign at the bar warned: Don’t forget you’re at 1,500 meters—alcohol hits harder up here!
Albuquerque: A sprawling city with an old historic center that feels a bit like Disneyland—too perfect for my taste. The real highlight is the Sandia Peak Tramway, which goes up to the old ski resort above the city. Tickets are around $35, and it’s worth it—the ride over the canyons is pretty wild. The ski resort is a bit abandoned; apparently, like elsewhere, there’s no snow anymore. I asked several people about the lack of snow, and the answer was always the same: “It’s cyclical.” Okay then. We arrived for the start of the International Balloon Fiesta (one of the world’s largest hot-air balloon gatherings), hoping to see hundreds of balloons in the sky. Nope—windy today, so no one took off. Bummer.
Las Vegas: New Mexico has its own Las Vegas, but it’s nothing like the other one—a sleepy little town with a perfectly preserved 19th-century Historic Plaza Hotel, brick buildings, and vintage streetlights. Everything is so well-preserved it’s often used as a filming location. NM attracts a lot of productions thanks to tax incentives and its Western landscapes—and it’s cheaper than California! That day, a huge Texas flag was flying in the wind: they were filming the second season of *Ransom Canyon* for Netflix in the town center. If we’d been dressed more “Western,” we could’ve been extras.
Jemez Springs: Its Jemez Hot Springs is super cute—several thermal pools at different temperatures, a New Age vibe. The pools are surrounded by big rocks, and you’re asked to speak softly. A place where you could spend hours. $50 for two hours for two.
Los Alamos: A town made legendary by the bomb, the movie, etc. Heads up: It’s still a research center, and to cross part of the town, you need to show ID. No stopping or taking photos allowed. Other than the Oppenheimer House (currently closed—only the neighboring house is open to visitors), there’s not much to see. There’s a replica of the camp entrance, but it’s been turned into restrooms.
Georgia O’Keeffe Trail (American painter, 1887–1986): Her museum in Santa Fe is pretty good, even if they don’t have tons of works. Entry is $20. Her house in Abiquiu is open for visits, but it’s way overpriced at $65. So we skipped it. You can get an idea of it by stopping at the Welcome Center on Route 84. Further down the same road, Ghost Ranch is worth a visit—beautiful setting, free to enter, with trails to explore and a great atmosphere.
Chaco Culture National Historical Park: A pretty isolated park—25 km of trails to get there, with only a small section paved. The road is decent except for the last few kilometers, which have potholes. I can’t imagine it being accessible after rain, though that doesn’t happen often! This park, in the middle of a desert plain with a few canyons, is one of the rare places where you can find multi-story structures from pre-Columbian civilizations—so, before the “current” tribes. But cruel disappointment: it’s been shut down for a few days. We met a Native ranger—tall, with long hair—who explained that even though he wasn’t being paid, he was still guarding the park and had closed all access to the sites. Darn. Turned around and headed back down the trail.
Same story in the next town, Aztec (a funny name, right?): Aztec Ruins National Monument was closed too.
We passed Ship Rock, the Navajo’s sacred mountain—really impressive. Couldn’t find a trail to get closer, but it’s better from a distance anyway! The town of Shiprock itself is pretty depressing—poor living conditions for some Natives, with rundown mobile homes and piles of junk cars.
Stopped in Cortez to visit Mesa Verde National Park. Ate at Denny’s—hadn’t been there in ages (though it’s the kind of place I should feel at home in!). The customers all looked like they’d stepped out of *The Addams Family*—a little creepy. Or funny, depending on your perspective. For Mesa Verde, after discussing it on this forum with the honorable member Caussat (who didn’t find it that amazing), we were on the fence. Problem solved: it was closed too. Back on the road.
Durango: Really nice with its Main Ave and its shops, cafés—touristy but with local life. Famous for its tourist train to Silverton, but we didn’t do it—way too expensive. Choice between a steam locomotive or diesel (which belches black, stinky smoke—yuck). The diesel should be replaced with electric as soon as they get the funds.
Million Dollar Highway: The road winds through the mountains, and every turn (and there are a lot) is breathtaking—unbelievable landscapes with fluorescent yellow, green, and snow-capped mountains. Just wow.
Silverton: A Western town nestled between two mountains, preserved in its original state despite the tourists arriving by train. Around it, abandoned mines and old wooden ties—must’ve been tough for the 19th-century miners.
Grand Junction: The city is surrounded by giant mesas—pretty impressive. The old downtown is *too* clean—almost sterile.
Colorado National Monument: Just outside the city, a winding road climbs between stunning canyons, with sweeping views of the valley. Entry was free that day due to the shutdown.
Route 330, which we took to get back to the highway, passes through a place called “Cowboy Country”—and it’s true. We saw guys in Stetsons with huge pickups, the road turned into a trail with cows wandering on it, and we had to honk to get them to move. The trail to I-70 was full of potholes—the 4X4 came in handy. Had a picnic by Vega Reservoir: the booth at the entrance was empty, but people left cash in envelopes for camping fees. Anyone passing by could’ve taken it, but it’s an example of US trust and honesty!
Glenwood Springs: A small town famous for its hot springs pool—they claim it’s the largest in the world. I don’t know about that, but it has a great look. Unfortunately, it was closed for maintenance those days! Blew our budget by staying at the Hotel Colorado, a huge 1893 building with a real atmosphere in its grand lobby and fake fireplaces. Fire pits in front of wooden chairs in the garden with mountain views—just really great.
Aspen: The billionaires’ ski resort, but surprisingly, parking was free for 2 hours. Rare to see a place for the super-rich that doesn’t scream “not for you” (like Palm Beach, for example). A former mining town completely redone, every shop occupied by a luxury brand. There’s even a thrift shop run by sweet retirees—funny as hell. Two ski lifts to start directly with your skis, but we didn’t see the price—they were still closed. Lots of houses that aren’t huge but are cute, though looking at real estate prices made us think, “Is there an extra zero on that listing?” A 6-bedroom villa for $52 million? Wow. The mountains around are gorgeous—no wonder it became what it is.
Another fancy resort nearby: Vail, more modern in its construction. The restaurants opted for a “Schwarzwald” decor—kind of odd.
Denver: Nothing really stood out for us in this city, except the Design Museum—the Kirkland, where a local painter collected furniture and supplies from Arts and Crafts to Postmodern. Just really great. Entry is included with a visit to the Denver Art Museum, which has diverse collections—from Impressionism (they have a Manet, a Van Gogh, a Cézanne, several Sisleys) to photography. The best part for me was the “Ancient Americas” totems—huge, impressive wooden sculptures, painted, the kind you’re more used to seeing in Polynesia or Easter Island. Personally, I didn’t know Natives made them too. That’s what museums are for!
Back at the airport, where I had to tag my own luggage (you have to do everything yourself with these US airlines). The tag said SLC/CDG! But we were supposed to connect through JFK. Turns out, they’d put us on a DEN/SLC/CDG flight without telling us. In the end, we gained 30 minutes on our original arrival time in Paris!
There you go—hope this inspires other travelers! !
Transforming a 2-week West American itinerary into 3 weeks
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a three-week road trip in the American West, starting from Las Vegas, roughly following the two-week itinerary here. I like the loop idea, but since I’ve got an extra week, I’m wondering if it’s better to take time for a break in a city or just spread out the stops a bit. Is it worth staying a few days in another big city like Denver to break up the drive? I like cities, but nothing’s really inspiring me. I’m also hesitant about Canyonlands National Park: is it really worth two days or more, or is it less impressive than others like Arches or Bryce Canyon? If any of you have done a longer road trip in this region, I’d love your advice on where to extend the trip, where to relax a bit, and which lesser-known spots are worth the detour. Thanks!











