Results for "chasse+|+99+>+41"

During our first road trip across the United States, we covered 23,000 km and crossed 28 states in 53 days.

Originally, we had planned to drive Route 66 all the way to Oatman in Arizona and visit various national parks in the American West over a two-month period.

This itinerary was planned before our departure, and all the relevant information had been gathered to stick to the schedule.

Everything went so smoothly that we finished visiting the national parks well ahead of our planned return date.

It helped that having a bed, a portable toilet, and a cooler in our vehicle gave us some autonomy since we didn’t have to worry about accommodation.

So, we decided to extend our road trip to the cities of Nashville and Memphis in Tennessee.

We then headed to Louisiana to visit Baton Rouge and New Orleans.

We crossed Mississippi and Alabama before driving along Florida’s west coast all the way to Key West.

We returned via Florida’s east coast and then crossed the eastern U.S. states to get back to Quebec through the Jackman border crossing in Maine.

So, I invite you to keep reading this long recap, which will let you discover the different attractions we visited throughout this amazing journey.

Videos are included throughout the recap. Click on the image to start the video.

To jump to a specific post, here are the relevant links:

Route 66 - Illinois & Missouri Route 66 - St. Louis (Missouri) - Gateway Arch National Park Route 66 - Cuba (Missouri) - City Murals Route 66 - Springfield (Missouri) - Fantastic Caverns Route 66 - Kansas & Oklahoma Route 66 - Texas & Arizona Route 66 - Texas - The Stations of the Cross in Groom Route 66 - Texas - Panhandle - VW Slug Bug Ranch Texas - Palo Duro Canyon State Park - Juniper Trails Texas - Palo Duro Canyon State Park - The Lighthouse Trail Route 66 - Texas - Amarillo - Cadillac Ranch Route 66 - New Mexico - Santa Rosa Blue Hole New Mexico - Bandelier National Monument - Alcove House Trail via Main Loop Trail New Mexico - Bandelier National Monument - Tsankawi Ruins Trail New Mexico - White Rock Overlook Route 66 - New Mexico - Albuquerque - Old Town New Mexico - White Sands National Park New Mexico - White Sands National Park - Dune Life Nature Trail New Mexico - White Sands National Park - Playa Trail New Mexico - White Sands National Park - Interdune Boardwalk New Mexico - Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument New Mexico - Grants - Ice Cave & Bandera Volcano New Mexico - Gallup - Pyramide Rock Trail & Church Rock Trail Arizona - Holbrook - Painted Desert Arizona - Petrified Forest National Park - Puerco Pueblo & Newspaper Rock Viewpoint Arizona - Petrified Forest National Park - Blue Mesa Arizona - Petrified Forest National Park - The Teepees, Agate Bridge & Jasper Forest Overlook Arizona - Petrified Forest National Park - Crystal Forest Trail Arizona - Petrified Forest National Park - Giant Logs Trail Arizona - Winslow - Two Guns Ghost Town Arizona - Cameron - Little Colorado River Gorge Overlooks Arizona - Grand Canyon National Park - Shoshone Point Trail Arizona - Grand Canyon National Park - Desert View Drive Arizona - Grand Canyon National Park - Rim Route (Orange) & Village Route (Blue) Arizona - Grand Canyon National Park - Hermit Route (Red Line) Route 66 - Arizona - Historic Town of Oatman Arizona - Bullhead City Community Park Nevada - Red Rock Canyon - Calico I & II & Sandstone Quarry Nevada - Red Rock Canyon - Willow Springs Nevada - Red Rock Canyon Lookouts Nevada - Valley of Fire State Park - White Domes Trail Nevada - Valley of Fire State Park - Seven Wonders Trail, Pink Canyon, Fire Wave Nevada - Valley of Fire State Park - Rainbow Vista Trail Nevada - Valley of Fire State Park - Mouse's Tank Trail Nevada - Valley of Fire State Park - Rock Formations Nevada - Valley of Fire State Park - Scenic Routes Nevada - Cathedral Gorge State Park - Slot Canyons Nevada - Cathedral Gorge State Park - Eagle Point & Miller Point Utah - Bryce Canyon National Park - Mossy Cave & Tropic Ditch Waterfall Trail Utah - Bryce Canyon National Park - Scenic Drive Utah - Zion National Park - Pa'rus Trail Utah - Zion National Park - Sand Bench Trail Utah - Zion National Park - Emerald Pools Trail Utah - Zion National Park - West Rim Trail (Trail connecting to Angels Landing) Utah - Zion National Park - Riverside Walk Utah - Zion National Park - Court of The Patriarchs & Big Bend Utah - Zion National Park - Mount Carmel Highway Scenic Drive Utah - Kanab - Jackson Flat Reservoir Utah - Toadstools Trail in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Arizona - Page - Glen Canyon Dam Overlook Arizona - Page - Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona - Page - Horseshoe Bend Overlook Arizona - Page - Upper Antelope Canyon Arizona - Page - Navajo Canyon Boat Tour at Lake Powell Arizona - Page - Antelope Canyon X Arizona - Canyon de Chelly National Monument - Chelly Canyon Arizona - Canyon de Chelly National Monument - Canyon del Muerto Arizona - Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Utah - Mexican Hat Utah - Mexican Hat - Goosenecks State Park Utah - Mexican Hat - Valley of the Gods Utah - The Moki Dugway Scenic Backway Utah - Blanding - Natural Bridges National Monument Utah - Lake Powell - Hite Crossing Bridge Utah - Lake Powell - Glen Canyon National Recreation Area - Hite Overlook Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - Chimney Rock Loop Trail Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - Hickman Bridge Trail Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - Grand Wash Trail Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - Sunset Point Trail Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - Goosenecks Trail Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - Viewpoints - Fruita Area Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - Viewpoints - Scenic Drive Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - Cassidy Arch Trail Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - On the way to Capitol Gorge Trailhead Utah - Capitol Reef National Park - Capitol Gorge Trailhead Utah - Monroe - Mystic Hot Springs Utah - Scenic Overlooks on UT-24, UT-119 & I-70 Utah - Arches National Park - Park Avenue Trail Utah - Arches National Park - Courthouse Towers Section's Viewpoints Utah - Arches National Park - Balanced Rock, Pothole Arch, Ham Rock & Garden of Eden Utah - Arches National Park - Double Arch Trail, Cove Arch, Cove of Caves & Panorama Point Utah - Arches National Park - Windows Loop & Turret Arch Trail Utah - Arches National Park - Delicate Arch Trail Utah - Arches National Park - Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint Trail Utah - Arches National Park - Fiery Furnace Section - Viewpoints Utah - Arches National Park - Sand Dune Arch Trail Utah - Arches National Park - Skyline Arch Trail Utah - Arches National Park - Devils Garden Trail Utah - Dead Horse Point State Park - West Rim Trail Utah - Dead Horse Point State Park - East Rim Trail Utah - Moab - Utah State Route 279 (Potash Road) Utah - Moab - Shafer Trail - Potash Evaporation Ponds Utah - Moab - Potash Road Dinosaur Tracks and Petroglyphs Utah - Moab - Potash Road - Corona, Bowtie & Pinto Arches Trail Utah - Moab - Potash Road - Wall Street Climbing Area Utah - Moab - Kane Springs Road Utah - Moab - Kane Springs Road - Side By Side Adventure Utah - Moab - Kane Springs Road to Moab Utah - Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky - Mesa Arch Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky - Aztec Butte Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky - Whale Rock Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky - Upheaval Dome Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky - Grand View Point Overlook Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky - White Rim Overlook Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky - Overlooks Utah - Moab - Wilson Arch Utah - Monticello - Newspaper Rock State Historical Monument Utah - Canyonlands National Park - The Needles - Road Side Ruin Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - The Needles - Cave Spring Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - The Needles - Pothole Point Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - The Needles - Big Spring Canyon Overlook Trail Utah - Canyonlands National Park - The Needles - Overlooks Colorado - Mesa Verde National Park - Mesa Top Ruins Road Colorado - Mesa Verde National Park - Chapin Mesa Road Colorado - Mesa Verde National Park - Mesa Top Loop Colorado - Mesa Verde National Park - Wetherill Mesa Road Colorado - Great Sand Dunes National Park Colorado - Mosca - Zapata Falls Colorado - Colorado Springs - Garden of the Gods Colorado - Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park Colorado - Gunnison - Curecanti National Recreation Area Colorado - Gunnison - Blue Mesa Dam & Reservoir Colorado - Lake Pueblo State Park (Pueblo Reservoir) Kentucky - Mayfield, 5 months after an EF4 tornado Tennessee - Nashville - Downtown Walking Tour Tennessee - Graceland Mansion - Home of Elvis Presley Tennessee - Graceland - Lisa Marie & Hound Dog II Jets Tennessee - Graceland - Elvis Presley Automobile Museum & Exhibits Tennessee - Exploring Memphis Louisiana - Exploring Baton Rouge Louisiana - Exploring Lafayette Louisiana - Exploring Houma Louisiana - New Orleans - French Quarter Tour Louisiana - New Orleans - Garden District Tour Louisiana - New Orleans - Creole Queen Mississippi River Cruise Florida - Clearwater Beach Florida - Sanibel Island - Bowman's Beach Florida - Siesta Key Beach Florida - Captiva Island - Turner Beach Florida - Key Largo - Sunset Florida - Key West - Smathers Beach Florida - Miami Beach - Art Deco District Florida - Miami Beach South Carolina - Myrtle Beach Virginia - Virginia Beach Maine - Scarborough - Pine Point Beach

Here we can chat, have fun, ask questions, post off-topic photos... Hope you'll like this theme 🙂 The contest is here

Every day, I look back at my 2022 trip to Wyoming. And every day, I tell myself I need to start getting ready to go back. Don’t agree? 😎

The context: The urge to return to the USA, to explore a new part of the country. I don’t need much convincing to go back to Uncle Sam’s land. My wife’s on board too. So, off we go for my 9th trip to the USA! (I didn’t take notes, so this is from memory)

Day 1: The departure: Flight with two layovers. I usually avoid layovers in the US before the final destination because of immigration. This time, my flight was Lyon/Munich, then Munich/Chicago, and finally Chicago/New Orleans. The layover in Chicago was 3 hours, and since I’d been through this airport twice before and found it super efficient both times, I wasn’t too worried when I booked my tickets—especially with Lufthansa. Unfortunately, there were several flight changes before departure, the last one leaving us with only a 2h14 layover in Chicago. I called Lufthansa to check if that would be enough, and they told me immigration in Chicago takes about an hour and 45 minutes (according to their calculations). So, I left feeling confident. A 15-minute delay leaving Lyon, then a 1-hour delay leaving Munich—now I’m starting to worry. When we arrived in Chicago, we rushed, cut in line, and made it to immigration. And then—an impossible queue. Game over, we missed our last flight. Of course, Lufthansa rebooked us for the next morning, arriving around 10 AM, and booked us a hotel. I found someone to call Alamo in New Orleans to make sure my rental car would still be there. Everything’s sorted—except our luggage, which we have no idea where it is! My little worry is that we land at 9:45 AM the next morning, and we’ve booked a tour at 11 AM at Laura Plantation, which is about an hour’s drive away! Wait and see…

The +: We're back in the USA The -: Once again, flight delays

Before I begin, I’d like to thank Michèle Buisson and her "Misha’s travel journals," which really helped me plan this trip. It’s tough to find information about this part of India, which is quite different from the "more traditional India." I’m so grateful to her for introducing me to a family who hosted me for 4 nights and 3 days. I can’t wait to return the favor and welcome you all to my place in early July!

Thursday, March 20th. The alarm goes off super early, but I’m already awake—I was too worried I’d sleep through it. I leave the house at 4:00 AM. The rain has stopped, and at this hour, there aren’t many trucks on the road. I arrive at Barcelona Airport easily by 6:20 AM, let the valet know I’m there, and he quickly picks up my car. This time, I’m flying with Etihad Airways again. I booked the ticket during my trip to Cambodia: Barcelona/Kolkata, Delhi/Barcelona for 567 €. At that price, I didn’t hesitate for long—I knew I had to take it. And I’m glad I did because, by the time I returned, the price had gone up to 700 €. I can already hear the reactions: "Wow, how’d you get a ticket for that price? What site did you use? You’re amazing, MarieJo!" One thing’s for sure—I’m really happy with this deal. The flights from Barcelona to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Kolkata go smoothly, and we arrive on time at 2:55 AM. There aren’t many people at immigration, so I get through quickly. My luggage isn’t on the carousel yet. After collecting my bag, I check in for my next flight with IndiGo, a 5:40 AM flight to Guwahati, arriving at 7:00 AM. I’m starting to feel pretty tired, so I take a taxi from the airport to Gruham Sojourn Homestay. The house is upstairs, and the neighborhood seems quiet, with restaurants lining the street. The room won’t be ready until 10:00 AM, so I rest on the bench in the meantime. Once in the room, I take a shower—it really helps me feel refreshed. I need to exchange some euros, so I look up a nearby exchange bureau on Google and head out to find it. I locate it easily, and the staff are super friendly. I get a great rate (1 € = 90 INR). I wander around the neighborhood. The train station isn’t far, and small markets line the streets. I head back to my area, walking along the main avenue. About 500 meters from my street, I discover a museum. The visit is fascinating—I see the famous Majuli masks, among other things.



I’m not far from the Brahmaputra River, and the temptation to visit is too strong to resist. I’d hoped to find a promenade along the river, but that doesn’t exist here. I walk back calmly and notice several restaurants in my street. On the doorstep of my accommodation, I spot a pastry shop with cakes that look more like the ones we have in France than the typical ones here in India. A visit is a must, and I’m not disappointed!



Tonight, I’m dining at a restaurant in the street. The menu is a bit disappointing—burgers, pizzas, pasta—nothing very Indian. So, I’ll go with tomato pasta.

Hi everyone,

I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular. This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.

In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit. I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual. Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up... We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...

As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??

The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.

In Addis... "our" A-350.



.....

After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.

By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later. Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.

Welcome on board:



Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:



I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias?? As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...



On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!! Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.

It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge. Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...

Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.





Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??



A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:





Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!



When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me. I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉

...

Hi there! It’s been nearly 6 years since I last posted here or on my travel blog. But I’m back, at least for one post! I’m returning with a dream trip we took in April 2023: a stay at Walt Disney World in Florida. We went for 10 days. Ten days at an amusement park might seem like a lot, but you should know that Disney isn’t just one park—it’s 4 parks and 2 water parks (only one was open during our trip). So we split those 10 days across 5 parks, which worked out to about 2 days per park. The four main parks each have a different vibe:

Magic Kingdom: The most famous one, the one that most resembles our Disneyland Paris. It’s home to several "lands" (Adventureland, Frontierland, Fantasyland, Tomorrowland, Liberty Square, and Main Street USA). This is the park where you’ll find the iconic castle, the symbol of the parks. Disney’s Hollywood Studios: It’s a bit like the studios at Disneyland Paris, with the well-known Tower of Terror and Toy Story Land. It also features the stunning Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge (a must-see, even if you’re not a Star Wars fan). Animal Kingdom: A very nature-focused park, divided into several sections, including representations of Africa and Asia, as well as the breathtaking Pandora – The World of Avatar. Epcot: The park of countries, where different nations are represented around a large circular lake—including France!

The water park that was open during our stay was Typhoon Lagoon. We spent a morning there lounging and swimming before heading to Disney Springs (the equivalent of Disney Village in France). We’re not big on pools or chilling out, so we didn’t stay long, but there was no time limit.

We chose to stay at the Disney’s Art of Animation hotel, a Resort (huge, like everything there!) with 4 themed areas: Nemo, Cars, The Lion King, and The Little Mermaid (where the rooms for 4 people or fewer are located).



Here’s the itinerary we followed for those 10 days:

Day 1: Flight at 7:35 AM–4:40 PM (with a layover in London), stroller pickup, then shuttle bus to our hotel Day 2: Day at Magic Kingdom Day 3: Day at Hollywood Studios Day 4: Day at Animal Kingdom Day 5: Day at Epcot Day 6: Day at Hollywood Studios Day 7: Relaxing day at Typhoon Lagoon and Disney Springs Day 8: Day at Magic Kingdom Day 9: Day at Epcot Day 10: Day at Magic Kingdom Day 11: Morning at Hollywood Studios, then shuttle bus to the airport, stroller return at the airport, flight at 7:05 PM–1:50 PM (next day)

We rented the stroller from Kingdom Stroller. The rental process was super easy—everything was done online. On the day we arrived and the day we left, there was no staff at the counter, but the stroller was ready with a tag bearing our name. When we left, we just dropped it off at the designated spot, still with no one checking... We used the Mears Connect shuttle: you pick a day and time for them to pick you up at the airport and your hotel. Everything went smoothly, no surprises.

For planning, you’ll need to decide in advance which parks you’ll visit each day because a reservation is required (just like in Paris now). I’d recommend making a schedule ahead of time. Same goes for restaurants—figure out which ones you’d like to eat at beforehand. Some work like fast food and don’t require reservations, while others, the "Table Service" restaurants, operate like traditional restaurants and need to be booked in advance to guarantee a spot. These can be reserved 60 days before the first day of your visit, and that applies to all the restaurants for your entire stay (e.g., if you’re going from February 1st to 11th, you can make reservations for the whole trip 60 days before February 1st).

Not essential, but we found them super handy: MagicBands. These are connected bracelets you buy on-site (not cheap, of course) that let you, once linked to your account in the app, open your hotel room, enter the parks, validate Lightning Lane reservations at attraction entrances, and even make purchases (if you’ve linked a credit card). We got the cheapest ones and loved them!

As for the trip’s wrap-up, if I were to do it again, ... I’d do almost everything the same: The schedule and restaurant reservations I planned were perfect! ... I’d change one thing: Maybe I wouldn’t plan two full days at Epcot because it was the park we enjoyed the least. Some attractions (like the amazing Guardians of the Galaxy: Cosmic Rewind) were great, but it was really hot, the park isn’t shaded, and it felt stifling when the weather was scorching. That said, I don’t regret it because a big storm hit on our second day, forcing us back to the hotel.

That’s all for now—I’ll be back soon with photos from each park and the hotel. You’ll see, it was incredible! See you soon! :)

This first trip of 2025 will have the taste of Asia.

More precisely, Thailand!

It’s not my first time—I’ve often traveled across Southeast Asia between 2000 and 2015. (This travel journal, for example...)

But it’ll be my partner’s first steps in this part of the world.

The itinerary we’ve chosen will alternate between familiar sights for me and new discoveries for both of us.

I’ll get to see how the country has changed in 20 years—and what’s stayed the same!

We were torn between the north and the south of the kingdom. Fears of smoke from slash-and-burn farming and a desire to relax on the sand tipped the scales toward the south...

What if we rented a car?

I think driving in sprawling Bangkok would be a bit ambitious, so we’ll only book our vehicle from Hua Hin to return it in Surat Thani.

Other transportation will range from tuk-tuks to overnight trains and ride-hailing services.

And of course, the plane!

I’d love to travel from Auvergne to Bangkok by road, but 15 days wouldn’t be enough...

Plus, the current geopolitical situation isn’t exactly favorable...

So, once again, we’ll be stuck for hours in the less-than-comfortable economy class of Qatar Airways.

The arrival time was on schedule, entry formalities were quick, and all our luggage made it.

We left Lyon in wind and cold—now we’re breathing in the warm, humid air of กรุงเทพมหานคร.

To reach our hotel, we first took the metro, which dropped us off in the city center in about 30 minutes for the incredible price of 1.18 €.

A few taps on the GRAB app, and we booked a ride-hailing service for the last few kilometers.

We waited a while for our driver due to insane traffic in the area, but once in the 4x4, we were at our lodging in no time.

We chose this small hotel for its riverside location, tranquility, and price.

It’ll do the job perfectly—the only downside is the weak breakfast.

The room is inviting, and we collapse onto the bed for a well-deserved short nap.

Wake-up call in an hour for our first visits!

See you soon...

Hi everyone,

There haven’t been many recent stories about Norway in winter, and since I had trouble finding info on winter hikes, I thought I’d share a little travel journal.

Back in September 2024, while planning our summer 2025 trip to Norway, I joined some Facebook groups dedicated to travel in Scandinavia and started reading travel blogs. Since winter trips were being planned at the time, I came across posts with stunning photos of northern Norway in winter. I’d always pictured monotonous landscapes of pine forests and frozen lakes, so I was pleasantly surprised to see fjords, mountain ranges, and charming colorful cabins—just like in the Lofoten Islands. Turns out, the vast pine forests are more typical of Finnish Lapland. Norway, north of the Arctic Circle, is actually much more diverse. That was all it took to suggest this destination to my three guys for our winter vacation. After some research, early March seemed ideal—good weather, long enough daylight, and great chances for northern lights. A direct flight from Paris to Tromsø sealed the deal. The only downside? The cost of cars, accommodations, and activities nearly made us back out! Everything except flights is really expensive.

Since our oldest son had an important school deadline in June, he decided to skip the trip, so we ended up going as a trio. We took a Transavia round-trip flight from Orly to Tromsø for an amazing trip from March 1st to 8th.

Want to come along?

Hello everyone! This trip dates back to late 2021, but since Voyage Forum reopened for writing, I haven’t seen many travel journals about Tanzania, so I decided to repost this one, which I originally shared on another well-known travelers’ site—even though I prefer Voyage Forum’s user experience. It’s also a chance for me to relive this exhilarating trip... So, if you’re up for it, let me take you on a classic adventure: Tarangire - Ngorongoro - Serengeti, plus a little bonus—the small Arusha Park. First off, yes, as the title of this journal suggests, we were lucky enough to spot *tons* of lions. The power they exude is incredible, even if most of the time they just look like big cats napping or strolling around. But lock eyes with one, and you’ll be glad you’re in the jeep.

But let’s not forget the rest of the wildlife—and the landscapes, which are absolutely stunning, with those iconic tree silhouettes.







I remember before leaving, I was a little worried I wouldn’t feel that same sense of wonder I’d experienced two years earlier in Botswana (see my travel journal). That fear was unfounded—the magic worked its charm once again! Note: Since we had limited time, we focused our trip entirely on safari, so this journal is 100% animals and landscapes—and 0% Maasai. Next post: TARANGIRE

A somewhat lengthy title... I could have simply written: from Bangkok to Chiang Rai, via Chiang Mai, since that was my route. But when poets embellish our travel journals with their verbal flourishes, you’ve got to try not to be too ordinary.

Skyscrapers of excess? You’ll have gathered that from the photo illustrating this journal—though it might change as the trip goes on.

The excess of markets—not so much in their size, though... Chatuchak... But in their sheer number. Day markets, night markets, floating markets, fresh produce markets, fish markets, meat markets, spice markets, fabric markets... and even... amulet markets... For luck, good fortune, protection. Not to mention, sadly, the market for girls—and boys, incidentally. I’ve even heard they’re displayed in windows. I’ve heard about that one, like you have, but I didn’t set foot in it, so I can’t say anything about it. Some even claim there’s a black-market trade in children. Disgusting! It reminded me of the book *The Parcel* by Anosh Irani, which I recommended in another journal. The story is set in India, but I’ve been told it exists in Thailand too. So, the "famous Thai markets" we’re bombarded with in paper and online guides—sure, they amazed me in the first few days, and I don’t regret visiting them. But no matter how big they were, I quickly got my fill since you saw the same things at every stall...

I had a market overdose.

Excess of tourism? I should say *tourists*, since I saw them literally swarming in the streets and those famous markets. I’d forgotten about them. I’d lost the habit, living in an Indian city for so long...

Waterfalls are a bit like markets. At this time of year, they’re not particularly spectacular, but they’re everywhere. There are the ones everyone goes to see. For example, Erawan, which I decided to skip even though it was in my original itinerary—I guessed it’d be a nightmare with the selfie circus. On the other hand, you come across them all over the place, hidden in the mountains and forests, not listed in any guide. Not to mention the ones you can find in temples or even private homes... Yes, really! Thais love waterfalls, so they install them in their gardens—and I even saw one in the middle of the city, right on the street! Sometimes they’re tiny, but very photogenic.

But what do ice cubes have to do with this? Why the excess of ice cubes? Not only are they everywhere by the ton, but they put them in *everything* you drink. You’d think they’d even put them in soup! And it’s not just one or two ice cubes—no! They fill the container to the brim, whatever it is, then pour the liquid on top to fill the gaps. They’ll make you an excellent coffee right in front of you, piping hot, then—bam! An avalanche of ice cubes in the glass. Okay, I’m exaggerating a little. They *do* sometimes ask if you prefer your coffee—or tea—hot. Everything edible, and especially everything drinkable, is refrigerated: vegetables, fruit, hot drinks (I mean, drinks that are *usually* hot), but meat and fish are left out in the open. They just wave a little whisk to shoo away the flies when they get too eager. Mind you, I never put fruit, cheese, eggs, or water in the fridge in France, but I do in India. And I refrigerate meat and fish too... Though sometimes one of those little flies sneaks into the fridge...

You won’t find practical or technical details in this journal, like addresses or prices. Others do that better than me. You also won’t find the names of obscure or unknown places I discovered, or directions to get there.

I don’t really feel like recounting what I saw day by day, following my schedule and route. There might be flashbacks, projections into the future. It’ll depend on my memories, what I felt, what I hated, what comes back to me—and maybe your questions and our exchanges. And for those who’ve never read me before, you’ll have to get used to my parentheses and digressions, maybe on a completely different subject, as my thoughts wander. Stories within stories. There’ll also be long, endless sentences—but still punctuated, so you can follow along. Though I used to curse Proust and his sentences that started on one page and ended on the next, sometimes even further. I’d have to reread them twenty times to follow and understand what he was saying. I hated Proust. But hey, I was 20. Maybe I’d like him now?

See? The digressions are starting already. Forgive me.

You’ll find few photos here. First, the number is limited, and second, photos aren’t the main purpose of either VF or a travel journal. They’re too often used to mask the poverty of the text. And, sorry to say it, but so many of them are just plain ugly! If you really want to see photos, I’ll share some links where you can browse them at your leisure

Hi there, Here’s a little recap of my cruise on the CELEBRITY INFINITY from February 14th to 23rd. Itinerary: Athens / Thessaloniki / Thessaloniki / Kusadasi / AT SEA / Cyprus / AT SEA / Rhodes / Heraklion / Athens / Athens Since the cruise ended on Monday, we had to leave the ship on Sunday to go back to work on Monday 😕 Bring on retirement! This was our 34th cruise, and the price was around 1,300 € per person for AQUACLASS. Just to remind you, AQUACLASS includes spa access, a cabin with a hydro-massage shower, and a dedicated restaurant. For once, I have to say we didn’t get a good deal—prices dropped two months before departure, and we could’ve had AQUACLASS in a guaranteed cabin for 1,000 € per person. So, I think for January/February cruises, it’s better to book last-minute. We arrived in Piraeus on the 12th in the evening. The hotel was great—"Phidias Piraeus Hotel"—close to the center, with a spacious room (upgraded by Booking to a junior suite). The breakfast was decent, and the price was 125 € for two nights, all included. The cherry on top? The hotel offers free shuttles to the cruise ship on departure day—really awesome! We’d never visited Piraeus before, and it was a lovely surprise. Not only was the weather gorgeous, but the walk was really pleasant—the port, the beach, the little streets. It was way nicer than I’d imagined! TO BE CONTINUED: BOARDING 😉

Friday, November 4 My flight Barcelona - Abu Dhabi - Delhi went smoothly, it’s on time, and here I am back in India after 3 long years. As I step off the plane, we head toward customs. It’s 3 AM, I’m tired but happy. The huge customs hall is below ground level and buzzing with people who’ve just arrived. In the end, they’re well organized—Indians to the left, foreigners to the right, and all along the hall, the customs officers’ posts, who remain very zen despite the crowd. It took me less than 2 hours to get out of the airport, which was pretty quick. For this return trip, I got in touch with a driver from the "Lovers of India" group who was supposed to take me from the airport to Udaipur, passing through non-touristy villages like I love. This French-speaking driver had convinced me to travel by car, which was supposed to make moving from village to village easier. Two or three days before departure, I receive a message from the driver saying he was sick with a cold and sending another driver, his very kind brother who knows Rajasthan well but doesn’t speak French. I’m a bit disappointed by this message and doubtful about the driver’s sincerity, but I don’t have time to find another driver, so I stick to my plans, though I’m not at ease. At the exit, the driver hasn’t arrived, and I wait half an hour before seeing him show up with a big smile, "Namaste." We don’t waste time and head to the car, which is clean and new. We get to know each other in the car and hit the road toward Alwar. Along the way, we stop for lunch and to taste my first masala chai, which wakes up my taste buds.



I doze off during the drive, and we arrive at the Atlantic Hotel in Alwar at 10:30 AM. My room is on the ground floor, and I settle in quickly. The Wi-Fi isn’t working, but the staff do everything they can to fix it. At noon, Gajender, the driver, suggests visiting the Qila Fort, which is on the heights of Alwar. The fort is closed for restoration, but safari tours are offered—jeep, guide, driver, and visit for 1600 Rs.



We follow the great wall, which is impressive—the second largest in India and the third in the world.



We spot peacocks and monkeys.





The guide shows me an old stepwell lost in nature. It’s always my thing to check out these baoris, which can be stunning, but this one isn’t anything special. We arrive at the palace overlooking the city.



We walk around the palace, and I discover another stepwell that’s not worth lingering over.

The tour is over, and I had a great time despite the fatigue. We head back down to Alwar, near the City Palace, which has been turned into administrative offices. Gaju (the driver’s nickname) finds a parking spot near a dhaba where we have lunch (paneer masala, chapatis, chai)—it’s delicious. With my energy restored, we head to the palace. On the top floor is a museum that I visit.



At the exit of the museum, we have to go back down and walk around the palace to get to the Moosi Maharani Chhatri. I’ve been here once before and really liked it, and the place is still the same—calm and relaxing.



"This monument is the most artistic in Alwar and also the most royal, filled with fascinating history. Maharaja Vinay Singh of Alwar built this two-story cenotaph in 1815 in memory of his father, Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh. It’s also known as Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri, named after the king’s mistress, who performed sati upon his death. After the sati, she was accepted as the king’s wife. It’s an elegant monument, shaped like a flower and built with a mix of brown sandstone and white marble. The first floor is made of sandstone, while the upper floor and the chhatris (cenotaphs) are in white marble. Its sculpted pavilion has dome-shaped arches with intricate lace-like and exquisite floral patterns. There are complex motifs that shine brightly in the sunlight. The colorful circular ceiling is an important part of Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri and is adorned with faded gold-leaf paintings of mythological figures and scenes. The footprints of Maharaja and Moosi Rani are engraved in marble inside the cenotaph, and locals pay their respects to them."



Near the chhatri, there’s a large water reservoir with a magnificent view. The place is peaceful and relaxing, and I stay here for a while, contemplating and daydreaming before heading back to the hotel for some well-deserved rest. The Wi-Fi is working now. I’m the only foreign guest, and since my room is near the entrance, I’ll be well taken care of throughout my stay.

This catchy and somewhat mysterious title comes from several questions I’ve been asking myself.

VF has been back open for a reasonable number of weeks and months now. The number of visitors overall matches past averages, but the number of members online in the last 24 hours seems relatively lower than what we used to see.

Yet, to my surprise, I’m seeing fewer travel journals, way fewer messages, and way fewer questions. I don’t see many new registered users online, and I notice a number of members who are logged in but either aren’t participating or have stopped participating.

Something’s not adding up for me because, in my opinion, VF is still appealing, and I don’t see which other sites could really compete.

Was there a real break between pre- and post-Covid? Does it just take more time for some people to discover the site or learn that it’s active again? Do people now prefer quick consumption on sites like FB or others I’m not familiar with? Where have the site’s old-timers gone, and what are they doing with their time now? What’s really going on here?

Here we go!!! I left home at 4 AM on October 31st and headed to Barcelona. Driving through Barcelona on the ring road stresses me out a bit, but at 6 AM the traffic is smooth, and I arrive at the airport without any issues. I call the valet, who quickly comes to pick up my car. He takes photos of it from all angles before letting me go.

Baggage check-in hasn’t started yet, and there are already several of us waiting.

Once free, everything happens very quickly. The flight to Abu Dhabi is on time and goes smoothly. I’ve never had any problems with this airline, which I’ve been using for several years.

The flight to Bangkok arrives at 7 AM as scheduled. This is my first time in Thailand and Bangkok. I’m used to traveling in India, and I notice that everything here is well organized—the customs process is quick, and the luggage is already on the carousel.

I booked a taxi on Booking. All I have to do is find the right exit and door based on the agency’s instructions. A large sign with the names of people who booked is posted on a wall. A hostess greets me and calls the taxi, which arrives 5 minutes later. I booked one night at the Lost Inn BKK hotel in the Phra Nakhon district, and we arrive at 9 AM. The welcome isn’t warm, and I have to wait until noon, sitting on a chair, before I can check into my room. I’m exhausted, and sleeping sitting up isn’t ideal. Noon finally arrives—the room is small but clean, which is fine for one night. I quickly take a shower to wake up because I plan to spend the afternoon visiting the Grand Palace. First, I need to exchange some money, and the banks are all close together on the same street, which is very convenient. When I enter one, a hostess gives me a ticket and invites me to sit down. There are about twenty counters, and I wait quietly until my number is called. The exchange is quick, so I can head out to find the Royal Palace. It’s actually very easy, and the walk is pleasant.

Entry to the Royal Palace (500 baht).



It’s magnificent and grand, and there are quite a few of us visiting. The sky is gray, it’s very humid, and a shower interrupts the visit. It’s a vast complex of temples and palaces. The buildings are colorful and sparkling, with a great sense of serenity (without the tourists, of course). I quietly enjoy the place and try to take photos without tourists, which isn’t easy.



Very close to the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in the capital.



It’s very famous for its 46-meter-long reclining Buddha statue.





Walking around the temple, you can see different representations of Buddha, all covered in gold leaf.



Inside the temple, on one side, monks recite their prayers, while the other side is reserved for tourists who come to meditate in silence.



Before returning to the hotel, I have dinner at an Indian restaurant. I go to bed early because tomorrow’s wake-up call will be very early again.

Saturday, November 2nd Wake-up at 4 AM, departure from the hotel at 4:30 AM. The taxi I booked via Booking is waiting for me and takes me to the airport. The trip is fairly quick—he takes small roads, and at this hour, there’s no traffic.

The flight to Phnom Penh is on time. Before boarding, I realize I left my fleece jacket on the carousel, but it’s too late to go back for it.

The flight goes well, and customs is quick.

At the exit, I take a tuk-tuk to Julieka’s GH near the museum. The welcome is friendly. I won’t be able to check into my room until noon, so I take the opportunity to exchange some euros on the market street. The street is lined with restaurants, and I’ll have my first meal there.

The museum is right across the street, so I don’t waste any time visiting it.



The representations of Hindu deities are very different from those in India, and I don’t recognize them. Many beautiful Buddhas are on display.



The museum is very pleasant, and there aren’t too many people, which is a plus.

At the exit, I return to the GH, settle into my room—which is decent and clean.

The Royal Palace is 1 km away. I walk along a garden, and at the end of the street is the Tonlé Sap, but I turn right. I arrive at a large esplanade and see the buildings with tiered roofs and glazed tiles. The entrance to the palace is a little further away.

At the entrance, I notice there isn’t the same crowd as at the one in BKK.

Khmer architecture is magnificent. The complex consists of gardens, palaces, pagodas with golden roofs, and slender spires.



The Silver Pagoda houses the small Emerald Buddha, which is actually made of jade. The silver flooring is covered with carpets. Photos are not allowed.

The walls surrounding the pagoda are covered with frescoes depicting scenes from the Ramayana.

"The Most Refreshing Way to Travel Around Belgium" This is the title of the guide published by Pierre Pauquay at Éditions HELVETIQ Sàrl, Lausanne, Switzerland, 2023. I set off for Belgium with my camper van and my electric-assist bike, eager to deepen both my theoretical and practical knowledge of this country’s emblematic beverage while exploring the land. This guide became my trusted companion throughout the journey, which took place from June 4 to July 4, 2024. Out of the 40 routes presented, I chose 21, covering a broad swath of Belgium—both Wallonia (14 routes) and Flanders (6 routes), plus one route around the Brussels-Capital region with a visit to the famous Grimbergen brewery. Every route included a stop at a brewery, whether lesser-known or famous, artisanal or industrial, family-run or Trappist. In total, I logged 1,111.2 km of biking over 58 hours and 42 minutes of pedaling, averaging 3 hours of cycling per ride of 55.6 km. I visited 21 breweries, toured a few, and had just one flat tire (I didn’t count the number of beers, but I tasted them all...). I wasn’t always able to park my camper van near the brewery planned for that day’s route, but I made sure to enjoy the famous nectar only after completing the physical exercise required by the loops. Traveling by camper van, I needed routes that formed a loop, starting and ending in the same place. Except in Brussels, I never had to rely on campsites for a safe night’s stay. I always found a welcoming public or private parking spot, secure enough to prepare for the next day’s ride. I discovered Belgium from top to bottom, through hills (not very high) and valleys (very flat and often windy), at my own pace. I stopped whenever a photo caught my eye, grabbed a bite or a drink in the villages I passed through, and often felt like I was truly part of the landscape, in sync with the country’s rhythm and curious to see how people lived... More to come, with photos in a future post... Thanks for reading...

Hi, I’m heading to Thailand (first time!) in a week. We planned to be in Khao Sok National Park on February 1st and 2nd. I got a message yesterday saying it wouldn’t be possible to do any activities on Lake Chiew Lan as planned because of “weather conditions.” Despite all my research, I can’t find any info that supports this. Does anyone have recent updates? Is it really impossible to visit the lake, and if so, are there any alternatives? They’re offering a walk to Bang Hua Rad waterfall instead. Any thoughts? We’re really disappointed—the lake looked amazing 😢

Hey there, forum friends 😉

Some of you have mentioned missing the activity on this Indian "page," so let’s try to liven things up a bit—with joy and good vibes (mandatory with me 😜). Plus, it’ll make Jojoone happy 😊.

As big lovers of India—we’ve been six times—my co-traveler husband and I decided to explore Rajasthan this time around. The reason we waited so long to come here? We were dreading the tourist crowds in this state. But thanks to the timing (late March to early April 2024, which is starting to get pretty hot) and Aleph’s great tips, we were *very* far from mass tourism.

We spent three weeks getting around on our own for transport: mostly taxis and trains.

And I’ll admit, we had a rather "Arabian Nights" experience, far from the "real" India (Marien, if you’re reading this 😉). So this travel journal makes no claims other than to share what we saw, experienced, and felt—with all our ignorance about this country (which I’m fully aware of).

But fair warning: I go overboard with emojis, and this journal is super casual because it’s the one I share, almost in "live" mode, with our loved ones.

So, if you’re here, consider yourself almost part of the family 😄.

See you soon and....

We took this trip from September 12 to October 7, 2022. I didn’t post this travel journal earlier in Voyage Forum because the site wasn’t back up yet (and also because I was short on time). Then, at the end of 2024, I made a promise to a friend: to publish my travel journal on VF. So here it is! We took off from Paris in the late afternoon on September 12 and arrived in Tashkent around 7:15 AM on the 13th. This trip was the result of long contemplation and preparation (it was originally planned for the year of the lockdown (2020) and was prepared with the help and advice of Nasrullo Jumanov from Turquoise Travel. Stages and Itinerary Stage 1: Tashkent - September 13 and 14 Stage 2: Ferghana Valley – September 15 to 17 Stage 3: Nukus and Moynaq - September 18 and 19 Stage 4: Mysterious Khiva - September 20 to 22 Stage 5: Holy Bukhara - September 23 to 26 Stage 6: Asraf - September 27 and 28 Stage 7: Mythical Samarkand - September 29 to October 2 Stage 8: Tersak (via Shakhrisabz and Urgut) – October 3 and 4 Stage 9: Samarkand – October 5 and 6 Stage 10: Tashkent/Istanbul/Paris – October 6 and 7 Stage 1: Tashkent September 13 At the airport exit, we were greeted by the owner of our B&B (B&B Gulnara). Today was all about recovery and our first steps in the capital. Our first currency exchange made us feel like sudden millionaires. Our first stroll down the avenue leading to Chorsu Market introduced us to the fact that 80 to 90% of the cars here are white Chevrolets. A walk under the arcades facing Chorsu: hardware stores, cabinetmakers, lute makers (one of them gave me a little concert/demo of a few string instruments).





As we entered the market, many vendors called out to us, including this florist who asked where we were from: ‘France? Ah! Macron! PSG!’ He then recited a list of players from the Parisian team as well as past (Platini, Zidane, etc.) and current (Giroud, Griezmann, Mbappé, etc.) French national team players. Since we’re more into rugby (we live near Toulouse), he knew more players than I did!

The market sprawls outside around the large circular, multi-story hall. We bought some grapes and bottles of freshly squeezed pomegranate juice for just a few sums. This evening, we had a meet-up with Nasrullo. The reunion was very warm: we’d been exchanging messages for over two years, and I’d been ‘torturing’ him with changes to our itinerary and trip duration. We were finally eager to meet, and honestly, I wasn’t disappointed—in fact, it was the opposite. Nasrullo was very attentive throughout our trip and always made sure, even from a distance (and most often from a distance!), that everything went smoothly. His goal was for us to leave delighted with our trip and, why not, indirectly become ambassadors for this destination. September 14 Breakfast with Nasrullo, then we set off with him by taxi to explore some of the capital’s sites.



We started by visiting the Khazrati Imam complex, which includes the mausoleum of Kaffal Shashi, the Barak Khan and Muyi Muborak madrasas, and the great Khazrati Imam Mosque with its immense prayer hall.





In the Muyi Muborak madrasa, now a museum, you can see the oldest Quran in the world. It was written by three religious scholars, including the secretary of the Prophet Muhammad, on large ‘pages’ made of antelope skin. Next, we explored Soviet-era Tashkent, discovering its parks, canals, and squares: Independence Square with its storks and phoenixes, Amir Temur Square with its large statue and, in the background, the massive Soviet-era hotel that has become one of Tashkent’s iconic buildings. Nasrullo took us through Broadway Boulevard and along what he calls ‘Tashkent’s Montmartre’… Well, it’s far, very far from Montmartre (in every sense of the word!). Then we took the metro to Chorsu station. Rush hour is pretty much the same everywhere in the metro… When we arrived at Chorsu, it was time to say goodbye. Nasrullo had to head back to Samarkand. Before leaving, he recommended some chaikhanas at the end of the galleries facing the market. We ate there for just a few euros (2 or 3 € for two people). After eating, we headed back to our room to cool off (our B&B is about a 10-minute walk away).



Around 4 PM, we set off to visit the Kokeldash Madrasa, which is still active. On the way, we stopped to watch some bread vendors and take a few photos. We were hesitating about buying some for our evening picnic when a young woman approached us. In perfect English, she asked: ‘Are you looking for something? Do you want to buy bread? Which one? How much?’ She then spoke to one of the vendors and negotiated the price. ‘Do you want one?’ And she took two. She paid directly. I took out my wallet to reimburse her, but she refused. It’s on the house! Then the vendor asked where we were from. And off we went again: Macron, PSG, football players… We’ll have to get used to it. The young woman smiled at the questions and comments, barely gave us time to thank her, and left as quickly as she had approached us.

We continued our walk. Visited the madrasa. Then we crossed the boulevard to see the Tashkent Circus. I would’ve loved to go in and visit, but the ticket seller wouldn’t hear of it. We carried on around what should’ve been a park with old-fashioned rides and attractions. All we found was a construction site. Oh well! Back at our hotel, a message from Nasrullo was waiting for us. He had managed to change our train ticket for the next day. Instead of taking the 6:00 AM train, we’d take the 8:00 AM one. And instead of second class, we’d be in first class! Great! This evening, we had a picnic at one of the breakfast tables in the B&B courtyard. Under a shelter, the owner and his family were celebrating a birthday. The owner started by offering us some tea. Then they brought us some fruit (watermelon and melon). Finally, after the song, candles, and cake cutting, they brought us two generous slices of that beautiful birthday cake. Delicious!

Back on the forum, I’m starting to write up two 3-week trips to Kenya in August 2021 and 2023. In 2021, Quynh and I traveled with Régis (Rjulie95 on VF). Our son joined us in Baringo for the second half of the trip. In 2023, we went with two friends who’d been dreaming of seeing wild animals ever since we got back from Kenya. We didn’t need much convincing to go with them!

The two itineraries are almost identical (well, when you love something...) but we did make a few tweaks.

- The first part of the trip was with a local driver/guide, Félix, who was recommended by Sylvie56. Sylvie and her husband Ben are Kenya enthusiasts—they’ve been there countless times, always with Félix... and for good reason! He’s fantastic!

- The second part was with Melting Pot Safari, an agency that adapted to our photography needs. Tony Crocetta, the co-founder (along with his Kenyan friend Simon Chebon), is a wildlife photographer himself.

Here are the itineraries for both trips, including accommodations:

In 2021: Day 0: Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel Day 1: Nairobi / Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 2: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 3: Amboseli / Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 4: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 5: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 6: Aberdares / Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 7: Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 8: Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 9: Samburu / Nakuru - Merica Hotel Day 10: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 11: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 12: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 13: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 14 to 18: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 19: Maasai Mara / Nairobi – Roussel Guest House Day 20: Nairobi / Paris

In 2023: Day 0: Lyon / Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel Day 1: Nairobi / Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 2: Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 3: Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 4: Meru / Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 5: Samburu – Riverside Camp Day 6: Samburu / Buffalo Springs – Samburu Simba Day 7: Buffalo Springs / Ol Pejeta – Sweetwater Camp Day 8: Ol Pejeta / Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 9: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 10: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 11: Amboseli / Nakuru – Lake Nakuru Lodge Day 12: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 13: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 14: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 15: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 16 to 20: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 21: Maasai Mara / Nairobi / Paris

Here’s an itinerary—it’s not exactly what we did, but a combination of both.



Ready to join us on safari to see some wild animals?

Alright, this year, we're heading back to South America!

The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.

Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.

So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!

Not to Argentina, though...

Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!

In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.

Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.

Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?

Are the driver’s license and passport ready?

Bank cards and a few euros too?

Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!



--/--

To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!

1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco

2- Around San Pedro



3- From San Pedro to Cariquima



4- From Cariquima to Putre



5 - From Putre to Arica



Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.

Saturday, November 9, 2024 We left the house in the late morning, heading to the nearby airport parking lot, shuttle, formalities, and a quiet flight on a half-empty plane. Three hours eastward, we arrived in pitch-black night. Like everywhere in the world, we entered the city by crossing a vast, garish commercial zone, then the roads turned into streets, then alleys. Eventually, our driver had to stop to move poorly parked scooters so his oversized minibus could pass. We arrived in the middle of the old town, in a huge old house. We’re thrilled. The neighborhood is lively, full of atmosphere. Hungry and exhausted, we ate (very well) at the hotel restaurant, then strolled around. First impressions are promising!







Sunday, November 10, 2024 Antalya In this part of the world, there are some quirks that don’t always suit us infidels! Here in Antalya, the religious influence is still pretty light. You can drink freely, girls can save a lot on fabric—it’s all good, no one’s gonna say anything. But there’s the muezzin. That lanky guy who belts out his tune five times a day from the top of his minaret didn’t spare us this morning. Just a heads-up, we’ve got a two-hour time difference, and this guy starts his serenade at 4 AM, right in the middle of the night. That’s early!

Anyway, we recover, have breakfast, and realize that in terms of revered figures, Atatürk doesn’t take a backseat to the prophet responsible for our nighttime disturbances. We’d already been surprised by how ubiquitous his portrait is, but on the restaurant terrace, we see it’s a full-blown cult. There’s a little altar with rose petals under his portrait. First thing in the morning, the staff lines up to pay their respects, then sings a stirring hymn while some customers stand, hand on heart.

Right after breakfast, we set off like explorers through the old town. It’s incredible how many walls, monuments, and statues have survived from the glorious Greek and Roman eras. Back then, they built things to last!

Hello,

After 20 years of operation and a 4-year hiatus, we were happy to rediscover this forum following its acquisition by Myatlas.

At the very beginning of the adventure, there was a section allowing members to share their ideas—good or bad, feasible or not—with the team in charge to help perfect the forum.

So, to help VoyageForum regain its momentum and adapt to new audiences and a new environment, why not put our heads together and suggest some improvement ideas in this thread?

I’ll get the ball rolling!

Travel journals are limited to 300 photos because photo storage is expensive. This limitation is completely understandable, and Myatlas found a solution by offering a paid subscription for those who wanted to exceed the free photo limit. Maybe this approach could be adapted here? Limiting without offering an alternative is a reason members leave.

Aaah, I'm so glad Voyage Forum is back up and running. For reading... and for writing...

My last travel journal was from 2019, when I went hiking and backpacking with my son, who was 15 at the time. We visited some places that were still pretty unknown back then! I was supposed to go in April 2020, still solo, with arches as the main focus. I’d spent nearly two months getting physically prepared, and had managed to snag a bunch of permits for CBS, The Needles, and so on... Of course, it all got postponed—first to October 2020, then April 2021, then October 2021, and finally it happened in April 2022. Maybe I’ll write about that in another journal. The thing is, every time, I spend at least 6 to 8 weeks getting physically ready, even though I work out all year. Huge disappointment during that trip—so much had changed because of Covid, kind of like in the mountains back home. Overcrowding, not just in the national parks (we knew about that), but also in a lot of remote, lesser-known spots. Like the French, Americans realized they had a lot of beautiful places in their own country during those travel bans. And they kept exploring... Prices for pretty much everything had already gone up a lot. Gas, restaurants, cars, but especially lodging! Then, after dealing with so much wind in April, I got a little "fed up" with that time of year. It felt like I had strong winds and sandstorms for 3 out of the 3.5 weeks I was there...

So, the next trip was October 2023, to catch the partial eclipse in New Mexico, and of course, a bunch of arches ;). So many arches. Maybe I’ll write about that one too... Then came (among others) April 2024 for the total eclipse, in Texas, but starting from L.A., with my partner Valérie. Since I’d never visited some places I wanted to see further south of my usual loops, it was the perfect opportunity... And here we are at the end of September 2024. Another trip focused on arches—I never get tired of them. Every time I check one off my list, another gets added. Often it’s a photo I’ve seen online or in the NABS (Natural Arches and Bridges Society) magazine, which I’m a member of. I also scour the WAD (World Arches Database) and make a list of arches I want to visit. Fewer and fewer "viewpoints"—I’ve done all the most famous ones, and unless the sky is amazing, the photos all look the same. Since my goal is always photography *and* hiking, I’m always on the lookout. So this time, a packed itinerary—27 days, very busy. In past trips, if I didn’t plan enough and hiked fast, I’d end up with too many "gaps" in my days. This time, I’d rather have too much than too little (like in 2023, actually).

A few stats: - 6,589 km, including +/-1,400 km of off-road trails - 323 km of hiking, 8,829 m of elevation gain - 142 new arches for my collection, including some stunning ones, some less so, and some downright ugly—but all in the WAD. - Two outings with a Navajo guide - Almost no injuries - 8 bivouacs, including 2 backpacking trips - 4 days of backpacking - 22 freeze-dried meals and 15 Subways eaten - 6 thorns in my shoes (long live the tweezers in my backpack) - 3 kg lost (plus the 5 kg lost during prep)

Almost every day, I posted a little update on Facebook for family and friends. So I’ll be copy-pasting those texts here, written "my way" as usual. Some will like it, some won’t—that’s just how it is... 😏

For months, I planned this trip—looking for info, creating GPS tracks on Google Earth, exchanging tips with NABS members and other passionate friends. I snagged permits for The Needles again (4-5 days), for Fiery Furnace, timed entries for Arches National Park (2), and booked just one campsite, a "triple tour" in Monument Valley, and the first night in a motel. This is the first time I haven’t booked 80% of the motels—I was tired of having constraints because of the weather. This time, I want to be able to adjust my plans based on the weather and what I feel like doing more or less of. Camp when the weather’s nice, hotel/motel when it’s crappy.

Here we go...

Day 1

As usual, early morning flights: BRU-AMS, then AMS-SLC. Those who follow me know I’ve been renting a Rubicon from Rugged for years, which "forces" me to land in SLC. Up at 3:30 AM, but I’d been awake since 2:00 AM—the day’s going to be long. Shuttle to the airport. In Brussels, only two check-in counters open. I get there—no cabin baggage weigh-in, while the agent next to me is weighing everyone’s, even kids’ backpacks! A bit of luck, because as usual, if they weighed my backpack *and* my cabin bag, I’d already be over 20 kg. I check two hold bags, since I’ve got a lot of camping/backpacking gear, lots of freeze-dried meals, the backpacking bag, the Bear Canister needed for The Needles, etc. First flight is 30 minutes late, so the second one is already boarding. I’ve got the SSSS mark on my ticket (extra security check), so I head straight to the front when I arrive at the same time as Zone 3, even though I’m Zone 6. I pretend the check will take a while, and it "works"—they didn’t notice! No way I want to board last and risk them making me check my cabin bag. It’s packed with photo gear, laptop, drone, etc.—unthinkable to have to put it in the hold. Always a worry... SLC: baggage claim, customs, and out in 32 minutes. The MPC app makes something that was already quick even faster at this airport. And all the bags are there. That’s always a relief too. Since I drive at least 3 hours straight after landing, losing a hold bag would really mess up the trip and force me to spend the first night closer to SLC. On the way to Rugged. A young French couple from Reims is in the shuttle with me—they discovered Rugged thanks to my post in a Facebook group! Well, the team has changed again, and they lost half the stuff I’d left last October (plastic boxes, pillow, sugar, gas cartridges, folding chair, Crocs, etc.), but at least there are gas cartridges, so I don’t have to go to REI. REI would’ve been at least an hour out of my way. But as far as I know, there are no gas cartridges in Green River. I still get my tent stake hammer back, and a folding chair—different from mine but identical.

20,000 km Rubicon 4Xe, white. I check the tires—they’re in great shape, as requested. I’ll come back to the hybrid later. I didn’t want a hybrid, but that’s all they had this year. Why? Higher fuel consumption, smaller tank, higher cargo floor.

Stop at the Walmart near Provo, whose layout I know like the back of my hand (Walmarts are often similar). Start-of-trip shopping: water, Coke, Gatorade, UHT milk for cereal (not very common in the US), Special K "Almond and Vanilla", cold meds that work well (and don’t exist back home—you never know), two plastic bins, a pillow for the tent, Trail Mix, that’s about it. On the road to Nebo Loop for the fall colors. I’d driven this route last year, in the opposite direction on my way back to SLC, but it was a bit too late. This time, I’m a little early. At the start of the road, the maples are in the sun, so I go up to 2,200 m for the bright yellow aspens, then head back down. Mostly drone shots—no time to go for a walk. After a day like this, 4.5-5 hours of driving is already a lot... Arrived in Green River at 9:00 PM. Organize all the stuff from the bags properly, then sleep.

A few photos from these first few hours.

Hello everyone,

At the start of November, a bit of rest before winter will be perfect to kick off this travel journal. There aren’t many recent journals about this part of the world, so I’ll take the plunge—my way of celebrating the (unexpected) return of this forum, which has been such a big part of my life for over 15 years.

So, back to Asia at the end of 2023. After Myanmar in 2015 and Vietnam in 2018, we’ve chosen Laos this time. And when talking with friends (you know how it is—everyone asks, "So, where are you going this year?"), a couple of friends asked to join us ("You see, my wife dreams of a trip to Asia, and I dream of traveling like you, independently"). We’ve spent a week with them (and other friends) in Portugal, so we know they’re easygoing and flexible. They’ll only be with us after Christmas (due to lots of grandkids), so deal—we’re bringing them along! A new experience for us.

A new experience that’ll start with tweaking the itinerary. Originally, I planned to stay a month in Laos, but what could be more magical for my friend’s wife than discovering Asia by way of Angkor! Plus, our two daughters asked for some beach time at the end of the trip! So, it’ll be Laos and Cambodia—neither of which we’ve visited before, so no complaints there.

The route will be pretty classic, though a bit scattered to fit our dates and wishes. For us, we’ll arrive in Luang Prabang (LP) to take some time to acclimate, then a few days in the northern Laos mountains, Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi. Back to LP for a direct flight to Pakse. Yes, I know—so many amazing places we’ll miss along the way, but as you know, choosing means letting go... From Pakse, I’m leaving a few days open (no bookings), but I’m eyeing Champassak and the 4,000 Islands. That’s where Mariel and Naty (our friends!) will join us on December 30th. I’ve tentatively added the Bolaven Plateau loop to the plan (still no bookings). Their Laos adventure will be short—by January 3rd, we’ll cross the border into Cambodia, heading straight to Siem Reap for 5 days. Then, I’ll fulfill my promise with a magical detour to Koh Rong Sanloem via a night bus (a must-do in Asia!). On to Phnom Penh for 2 days—where our trip ends, while Mariel and Naty will stop in Bangkok for 3 days before flying home.

So, fasten your seatbelts, flight attendants at the doors, and sorry for the long intro—here we go on this Asian adventure!

Hi there, just back from a three-week round trip to Quebec and a side trip to New Brunswick. Departed from Montpellier, via CDG, then arrived in Montreal from July 31 to August 20, 2024. AF flights went smoothly.

The RT itinerary (without the visit details):

Arrival in Montreal; Trois-Rivières; Tadoussac; Matane; Gaspé; Campbellton; Trois-Pistoles; Quebec City; Montreal and return to France, AF to CDG then Hop! to Montpellier.

Observations:

Getting out of Montreal airport is a nightmare! Two hours at Avis Auto to pick up the car (nice ride, though—a WW SUV Atlas V6 for two). From what I’ve heard, Montreal Airport is a pain because it was initially under-dimensioned for its infrastructure, and it seems impossible to reorganize everything.

Quebecers: Wonderful people in terms of hospitality and behavior toward tourists—especially French ones. You can ask them for advice at the supermarket, for directions here and there, and those distant cousins are great! That said, I’d exclude Montreal, which, due to its size and perhaps its cosmopolitanism, can’t be considered as welcoming as the countryside and small towns we passed through. A bit like Paris, you could say.

Quebecers prefer Quebec City over Montreal, and I get it. On a positive note for the city, I left some money in the hotel at the end of my stay. Once back in France, I contacted the hotel (day before yesterday), and they confirmed the oversight and are taking steps to send the money back. A nice gesture. It’s the Nouvel Hôtel, 1740 Avenue René Lévesque. Well-located, too.

Tourists: Same as always!

Americans: Still lacking in culture and education, but we already knew that. Loud, intrusive, annoying, you could say. And I’ll skip the “Oh my God! Oh my God!” all day long. And always with a coffee cup in hand on the streets. Not just American tourists, actually. Coffee is either enjoyed at the counter of a café or at home in front of the day’s news. It must also be said that our cousins’ coffee is more like dishwater.

Tourists from the Middle Kingdom: No change there! Flagrant lack of European culture and respect. They can be quite annoying at times. Thankfully, they don’t like the countryside or small towns.

Tourists from the Land of the Rising Sun: As usual, impeccable behavior. Both in terms of dress and discretion.

The British: They feel at home. Well, they kind of are, actually. Distant, inaccessible—typical English folks.

South Americans: A lot of them in Montreal during my stay. Quite noisy, especially at breakfast. But deep down, they’re great and very polite. I really like them. Must be my 36.1% Iberian DNA from my ancestry test that makes me say that.

And the French? Always the same! Complainers, grumblers, never happy with the meal, always finding prices too high, cutting in line, sometimes with a Quechua backpack but not always. In short, we don’t change. That said, there were some really nice people and great encounters that will leave wonderful memories. Some folks from Marseille in Quebec City, Toulouse in Montreal, Perpignan... But not many Parisians. Or maybe they just don’t talk to outsiders. When I think that my wife is from the 14th arrondissement...

And lots of lovely young French people there on a Working Holiday Visa for two years.

Others? Italians? Didn’t run into many. Eastern Europeans? Didn’t see any, or they were super discreet.

The trip started on July 31. 2,000 photos to sort through. More to come later.

Yiiihiiiiii😎

Hey everyone, and warm greetings to all you Southern African wanderers exploring the eastern lands of this African forum!

Four years later, I can finally create a new thread about my next trip—and not just any trip: Uganda! 🙂 A destination that’s been making me dream more and more over the past few years. Originally planned for 2019 but swapped for Tanzania, Kilimanjaro, and Zanzibar. Then pushed aside for another well-known African destination, Namibia, with 6 friends in 2021 (but ultimately done with just 2 because of Covid). 2022 was supposed to be the year of our Canada trip (initially planned for 2020 and canceled two years in a row for the same health reasons). The 2021 safari with friends finally happened in South Africa in 2023—a classic loop that didn’t require much planning and let me start dreaming about my next African destination while devouring all the Uganda travel journals, frustrated I couldn’t reply or comment. Uganda was then reconsidered for 2024 as a follow-up to a 6-week road trip in Finland and Norway, starting from Paris to save time, money, and the ecological footprint of a transatlantic round trip—but ultimately canceled due to budget constraints, the start of my freelance work (no more paid leave), the high cost of 6 weeks in Scandinavia, and no desire to cheapen our first Uganda trip.

Uganda will be the absolute priority for 2025! 😉 And I plan to use this time to prepare for the trip properly. I also hope to use this period to get back to writing our travel journals. By absolute priority, I mean minimal restrictions and compromises on budget and travel time. 🙂

So, we’re planning to spend a month in Uganda next summer (2025). The exact month will be decided in the coming weeks. Why a month? To explore a good part of the country (really want to go up to Kidepo), enjoy the stops, and avoid putting ourselves at risk on the roads. Also, several rental companies offered me 4x4 quotes with a 10% discount for 30+ days of rental...

Here’s my humble draft itinerary:

Day 1: Late arrival in Entebbe around 11 PM. Day 2: Pick up 4x4 vehicle. Night in Jinja.

Day 3: Drive and night in Sipi Falls. Day 4: Night in Sipi Falls. Day 5: Night in Moroto. Day 6: Night in Moroto. Day 7: Drive to Kidepo NP. Day 8: Safari in Kidepo NP. Day 9: Safari in Kidepo NP. Day 10: Full day drive to Murchison Falls. Day 11: Safari in Murchison Falls. Day 12: Safari in Murchison Falls. Day 13: Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. Day 14: Lake Albert. Day 15: Full day drive to Kibale Forest. Day 16: Kibale Forest NP. Day 17: Drive to Kilembe (Rwenzori NP). Day 18: Hike in southern Rwenzori region. OR start Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 1). Day 19: Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 2). Day 20: Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 3). Day 21: Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 4). Day 22: Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 5), night in QENP. Day 23: QENP. Day 24: Visit Ishasha and drive to Lake Bunyonyi. Day 25: Drive to Ruhija. Day 26: Ruhija, Bwindi NP, gorilla tracking. Day 27: Mgahinga Gorilla NP... Day 28: Morning trek (gorillas or golden monkeys). Drive and night in Mburo NP.

Day 31: Visit Mburo NP and drive to Entebbe. Mabamba Swamp if we haven’t seen shoebills yet? Return 4x4 (30 days rental). Day 32: Departure from Entebbe (flight at 7:30 PM direct to Johannesburg with Uganda Airlines).

It’s not easy to visualize such a long itinerary. In terms of nights, it would look like this:

● Entebbe (1 night)

● Jinja (1 night)

● Sipi Falls (2 nights) ● Moroto (2 nights) ● Kidepo NP (3 nights) ● Murchison Falls (3 nights)

● Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary (1 night)

● Lake Albert (1 night) ● Kibale Forest (2 nights)

● Rwenzori NP (5 nights) ● QENP (2 nights)

● Lake Bunyonyi (1 night)

● Ruhija (2 nights)

● Mgahinga Gorilla NP (1 night?)

● Mburo NP (2 nights)

● Entebbe (1 night)

Obviously, I already have a lot of questions .

A question I really like: Where would you add extra nights? Keeping the 5 days in Rwenzori, we still have at least 2 nights to add to this itinerary.

Also, I don’t really have a clear idea about the loop’s direction. Instinctively, I thought of doing the gorillas last to end on a high note, but given the state of rental vehicles and traveler feedback, it seems we might not even make it to the end of the trip . Is there a meteorologically better direction? Given we’re likely leaving from early August to early September.

We’ve debated a lot about renting a vehicle with or without a guide, RAV4 or a proper 4x4, rooftop tent or not... In the end, after testing the guided experience in Tanzania and noting the relatively reasonable prices of hard lodgings (compared to Tanzania, Namibia, or Botswana, for example), the high cost of equipped 4x4s, and their unpredictable condition... We’re currently leaning toward a non-equipped 4x4, opting for the newest and most reliable vehicle possible to minimize breakdowns and missed stops. Any agencies/vehicles you’d recommend? Any recent feedback from the past few years?

Where’s the best place to see golden monkeys? I read that the southern part of QENP is no longer accessible. Can’t we go to Ishasha anymore? I’ve seen a lot of disappointed reviews about QENP, but it still seems like a good place to spot leopards and hyenas. If we stick with hard lodgings, which lodge is worth it in QENP, and how many nights should we plan? Are there night drives in Uganda to observe nocturnal wildlife? Initially, I thought of doing two gorilla treks—one in Bwindi (Ruhija) and another in Mgahinga Gorilla NP. But I got excited about Rwenzori (especially with the option to extend the stay a bit) and now I’m considering a trek there instead. However, the trek to Margherita Peak’s summit takes at least 7 days at 1580 $/person (plus extra rental days...), so I’m leaning toward the 5-day Weismann’s Peak trek. Has anyone done the Weissman’s Peak trek? If we skip the gorilla trek, is Mgahinga Gorilla NP still worth visiting?

Thanks in advance for all your comments, answers, feedback, favorite spots, and tips! 🙂

Looking forward to chatting with you all on this forum again! 😉

Pierre & Alison

Hello,

Who among us hasn’t dreamed of having a ticket to Tahiti, Bora Bora, or the Marquesas in their pocket—preferably a one-way ticket to “paradise”?

Idyllic landscape of a dream island, but difficult to access: the Bay of Virgins in Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands

Among the values conveyed by literature, tourism, and advertising is the quest for “elsewhere,” for a change of scenery, in the truest sense of the word—that is, the need to leave one’s country. This need for otherness, for difference, is projected onto dreamlike, idealized, even mythicized places. In our imaginary world, the island is often that place.

Yet we forget that islands have also been ideal prisons. The examples are numerous: Elba and Saint Helena, Alcatraz and Poulo Condor, If and Yeu, the Devil’s Islands and Leros. The latter, located in Greece in the Dodecanese, hosted a sinister forced labor camp during the colonels’ dictatorship as well as a psychiatric hospital. Despite the beauty of its bay, tourism has remained marginal there due to its bad reputation, unlike the neighboring island of Patmos.

I’d like to share a selection of about a dozen islands from across the world’s seas and oceans. For dreaming...

°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°

SANTORINI



July 27, 1967

At dawn, the ferry from Agios Nikolaos (Crete) enters the immense caldera of Santorini. From the ship’s deck, Rainer, my travel companion, and I are left in awe by the sight of these towering, multicolored cliffs looming over us. We disembark and begin the steep climb on foot via the winding mule path up to the village of Fira, the capital perched above the cliff. Though it’s still very early, we head to the youth hostel. There wasn’t a soul in the alleys that morning—or rather, there were only cats! I have a fond memory of that encounter with Santorini: a sensory shock, a breathtaking volcanic site, a harmony of blue, ochre-red, and white. A welcoming island, as it was traditional to welcome the xénou, an island that hadn’t yet fully recovered from the terrible 1956 earthquake, a Cycladic architectural marvel where local life was still preserved.

It’s easy to see why, in antiquity, the island was named Kallisté (καλλίστη), “the most beautiful,” as it’s nearly impossible to resist gazing at this landscape shaped by tectonic forces. Indeed, a massive volcanic cataclysm—the Minoan eruption—shaped this scenery in the 17th century BCE, creating a caldera that was quickly filled by the sea. The enormous tsunamis that followed reached Crete, leading to the disappearance of the Minoan civilization.

A cliffside path along the caldera leads us to the peaceful village of Oia, at the northern tip of the island. Blue-domed churches and flower-filled villages with whitewashed houses line the way. This walk is a continuous marvel, offering splendid views of the caldera and the neighboring islands formed by the breakup of the ancient volcano (Thirissa, Nea Kameni). Oia is a large, picturesque village, like Fira perched on the cliff’s edge, which was severely damaged by the 1956 earthquake, and its scars are still visible. Its cave-like houses with vaulted roofs haven’t yet been turned into luxury hotels or shops. Absolute tranquility reigns here.

Oia in 1967—a peaceful village overlooking the caldera. But where are the pools and trendy bars?

A lush countryside covered in olive trees and vineyards welcomes us for a pleasant hike, interrupted by the kindness of a friendly islander who gives us a lift in his truck for a few kilometers. He’s off to harvest his tomatoes, which he grows at the foot of Pyrgos Hill. The delicious little cherry tomato of Santorini earned an EU Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) in 2013. We climb up to the village of Pyrgos, perched on a hill and dominated by the elegant bell tower of its church. Finally, we reach the black sand beach of Kamari on the island’s eastern coast to enjoy a swim.

{...} To be continued





°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°

RAIVAVAE (French Polynesia)



November 15, 2007

Éléonore from Pension Tama welcomes us with traditional flower leis, as if she’d been waiting for old friends she hadn’t seen in ages. The small airport terminal is lively, the atmosphere warm—people hugging, rejoicing in reunions, all under kilos of flowers. Then, just as quickly, the place empties until the next flight... in a few days.



In the Austral Islands, a ninety-minute flight from Tahiti, Raivavae is a world away from the frenetic pace of Papeete or the tourist crowds of the Leeward Islands. The true paradise of the South Seas can still be savored here—it’s a bit like Bora Bora half a century ago. Our first feeling upon arriving on this island is wonder, with smiles that could melt even the gloomiest among us, landscapes so stunning they take your breath away, and above all, a sense of disorientation and fulfillment. Picture a mountainous island, about ten kilometers by three and a half, encircled by a coral reef and wild motu, cradling a lagoon with shades of blue that would make Bora Bora green with envy.

The roughly one thousand inhabitants of Raivavae are spread across four villages around the island. Children are everywhere, as is typical in Polynesia, and they greet you with open, genuine smiles. Here, ancestral values have survived progress. The predominantly Protestant population is very devout, as evidenced by the several temples built across the island. Religious fervor sets the rhythm of daily life. Sundays are reserved for worship and Sunday school (catechism). Work is forbidden on that day, and tourist activities are suspended. These rules are strict and respected.

Hat contest for the worship celebration

Yet a sense of resignation is ever-present. The people of Raivavae know they are—and will remain—isolated. Despite the construction of an airstrip in 2004 and a few weekly flights to Tahiti and its nearest neighbor, Tubuai (200 km away), the island remains on the fringes of the world. One painful aspect is the separation of children from their parents when they leave for middle school in Tubuai starting in fifth grade. Television brings daily images of a world the islanders will likely never know, but one they often aspire to.

We are privileged. We have the pristine white-sand beaches of the motu and some of the most beautiful bays in Polynesia all to ourselves. The jewel in the crown, the island’s emblematic spot, is the “motu-pool,” about twenty minutes by boat. A natural, exquisite basin with crystal-clear water, gradients of blue, and white sand. And best of all, there’s almost no one there. In fact, lounging on the beach is frowned upon, especially for young women. Religion looks very unfavorably on sunbathing and lazing around. And yet, everything here leans toward that philosophy of life.



The "motu-pool"

{...} To be continued