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Visite de Tenerife aux Iles Canaries English translation pending
by Gégé26 · 2006-02-11 · 24 replies
qui peut me dire les endroits à visiter à ténériffe?
Location de vélos et de scooters à Cuba English translation pending
by Sylvieqc · 2006-02-10 · 24 replies
Nous voulons louer des velos ou des scooters a Vinales et Trinidad. Quelqu'un l'a-t-il fait. Fait-il réserver d'avance? Peut-on louer à des particuliers ? Faut-il avoir une carte routière (surtout pour le scooter)? Doit-on amener un antivol pour le velo ou est-ce fourni? de Vinales peut-on aller a Cayo Jutia ou Puerta esperanza facilement en scooter? En combien de temps? Merci à tous. Tout conseil est apprécié
L'arrivée en Iran... English translation pending
by Opai · 2005-12-17 · 7 replies
EN rejoignant l'Iran je ne savais pas trop à quoi m'attendre... J'avais entendu parler de l'hospitalité iranienne mais je ne savais pas ce que signifiait, dans la réalité, République Islamique!

La première ville où je me suis arrêté est Tabriz. Plusieurs millions d'habitants. Je suis arrivé en début d'après midi. Un taxi m'a emmené à mon hôtel en voulant me faire payer un prix exorbitant. J'ai réussi à le faire baisser mais il a quand même fait une bonne affaire. Un taxi, c'est malhonnète, partout, toujours, donc rien d'anormal. Dans les avenues, aucune circulation, presque pas de voitures. J' étais très heureux d'être là, mais un peu fatigué et dans l'attente. J'allais bien voir, enfin, ce pays, ses habitants, ses monuments...

Tout de suite après avoir déposé mes affaires dans ma chambre, je suis sorti sous un soleil éblouissant, paralysant! Je me suis senti très mal à l'aise: personne, absolument personne dans les rues. On aurait dit un décor de cinéma, une ville fantôme. J'ai vraiment douté à ce moment là: "Et si l'Iran était un pays triste, écrasé par les mollahs?". Je remonte ces espaces vides pour aller contempler une de ces mosquées dont je rêvais depuis longtemps. Derrière un portail clos, j'apperçois effectivement un bâtiment mais pas de bleu, pas de faience! Rien d'impressionnant vu depuis la route. Et je ne peux m'approcher. Très déçu, je retourne sur mes pas. N'ayant pas mangé depuis la veille, je me suis mis à la recherche de nourriture. Je passe devant de nombreux restaurants mais ils sont tous fermés! Sauf un, en sous sol, qui détient de loin la palme du kitsch... J'ai réveillé les serveurs éparpillés sur le carrelage de la salle. J'étais le seul client. On m'observait vraiment bizarrement. J'ai mangé au plus vite. En partant, à la caisse, une gueule cassée m'a demandé si je voulais de l'alcool ou des filles. Devant l'air choqué que je prends dans ces circonstances, il a rit fortement avec sa dizaine de subordonnés. Une désagréable sensation qu'ils se foutent de moi. Où suis-je, où est la gentillesse iranienne? Je n'étais pas bien du tout!

On m'avait pourtant prévenu..."L'Iran, mais tu vas pas bien, ce pays voyou....tu cherche vraiment la mort!!".

Et bien, non, finalement, tout s'est bien arrangé. Les rues étaient déserte, les commerces clos,  car on était Vendredi, jour de prière mais surtout de repos. Le soir, j'ai rencontré 3 jeunes qui m'ont emmené dans un parc pour manger avec leur famille. Le vendredi est aussi jour de fête. Le soir, les espaces verts sont noirs de monde, qui cuisine sur place de délicieux Kebabs. Après le repas, vers 23h30, mes amis m'ont emmené dans un parc d'attraction. On a bien rigolé sur la grande roue, un peu moins dans la centrifugeuse! L'inquiétude de l'après midi a laissé la place a une sensation de bien-être. Grâce aux iraniens, on peut, en quelques minutes, avoir l'impression d'être de très vieilles connaissances.

Je me suis couché très tard et cette première soirée a été à l'image du magnifique mois que j'allais vivre...
Voyage à vélo Marseille-Nice English translation pending
by Albertroy · 2005-11-18 · 6 replies
Deja en vous lisant les jambes me fourmille.Ici la neige commence a tomber.J arrive d une promenade au centre-ville de Montreal.Je prepare un voyage en velo pour celebrer mon debut de retraite.59 ans bientot.J aimerais partager une randonnée vers la fin ou mi-avril 2006.Je ne sais pas trop par ou com mencer.Je cherche des compagnons de route.Marseille-Nice ?Temperature a cette periode?Ou ailleurs. Contacter moi .On pourra aller prendre un café ou par e-mail.Je suis genre velo-jasette-regard sur paysage.😉 Albert lavaberg@hotmail.com
Inde: Srinagar après le tremblement de terre English translation pending
by Lololeyeti · 2005-10-11 · 1 reply
Salut a tous, Nous etions a Srinagar (120 km de l epicentre) lors du terrible tremblement de terre de samedi matin. Il faut dire que c etait vraiment tres impressionnant, et surtout tres tres long! De memoire d homme, les habitants n avaient jamais vu ca! Nous avons eu ensuite une bonne dizaine de repliques plus ou moins fortes. Les degats sont minimes compares aux villages situes pres de la frontiere indo-pakistanaise, et la vie suit son cours... La route entre Jammu et Srinagar etait coupee encore dimanche, mais l axe etant tres important, elle sera reouverte tres rapidement a la circulation.
Turquie: location de voiture à Bodrum English translation pending
by Cado · 2005-09-01 · 11 replies
Qui aurait pratiqué une location au départ de l'aéroport de Bodrum / Milas ? Je n'y suis jamais arrivé directement. Avez vous un loueur à recommander, ou l'inverse! Merci
Budget pour Bali en août? English translation pending
by Obiwankenobi · 2005-07-27 · 15 replies
Salut, nous partons à 2 à Bali, 20 jours en août 2005. Nous avons 800 dollars. Ca vous parait suffisant ? On voudrait louer une voiture sur place, on a pas vu trop juste ? Par avance, merci beaucoup pour vos précieux conseils ! Obi wan
Retour d'Azerbaïdjan English translation pending
by Lofoten · 2005-07-07 · 1 reply
Des nouvelles fraiches de ce pays

Jy etais du 21 mai au 29 mai et jai bien aime

Pour le visa 2 possibilites pour eviter lettre de merde: arriver direct a laeroport ou aller au consulat a tbilissi.

Cest de la folie dy aller en aout ou meme juillet il fait trop chaud il ya des dessert dans ce pays ttres joli: meme en mai les locaux avaient deja chaud!!!

Baku est un desastre ecologique: polution a la lada, petrole dans la caspienne plus le vent qui laccentue et beaucoup de poussiere et americains et francais qui se batte pour le petrole.

les gens sont sympas et parlent pas anglais en dehors de baku: baku est tres cher au niveau du logement minimum 15 $ avec salle de bain ignoble et apres 30$ pour aussi baignoire pitoyable: glauque quoi.

Ne pas manquer: veille ville de baku; sheki et son palace, qobustan et ses volcans de boue la route baku sheki remarquable et pour les + avantureux comme moi la montagne a cote de quba dans le nord: Formidable

Aucun danger particulier sauf la circulation avec des chauffeurs fou un peu comme en iran

Nico 24 ans
Bangkok, tu m'illumines! English translation pending
by Marsu · 2005-05-25 · 7 replies
He oui si comme Ivo et moi vous aviez passe une annee au fin fond de la brousse malgache je vous jure que tous ces resto, sons, circulation et autre vous illumineraient, ces un peu le piege, comme d aller travailler dans le grand nord canadien avec un super salaire quand on revient a la civilisation on flambe...

Mais bon la ne sont pas mes questions...

1; On a ete con de chez con, on a changer tous nos euros sans reflechir que nous partions au Cambodge!!!! Je sais nous sommes ridicule... Mais bon l erreur est la tant pis!😊

Alors les questions petit A; est ce qu on peux changer des baths au Cambodge

petit B; si on fait notre passeport a la frontiere de Trat... Un peu plus bas... en plus de devoir enfler le douanier est ce qu on doit payer en dollards ou euro ou on peu payer en Bath???

2; Du postes frontiere via Trat pour descendre sur Shianoukville au Cambodge qu est ce qui est le plus jolie ( francement desole si tu ma deja expliquer ca Alan je trouve plus ta reponse...🤪) le bus ou le bateau a 15 euros!!!

A Shianoukville est qu on peux faire du Snorkelling... Ou ca faut vraiment pas le coup a cote de la Thailande!

3 pour finir DEBUT JUILLET est ce qu on peux aller au sud est de la Thailande pour faire de la plonge et bien voir les fond marin vue la periode de mousson?

Merci a tous.....
Venise-Rome à vélo English translation pending
by ThomasW · 2005-01-31 · 17 replies
Bonjour a tous,

Je compte partir cet ete pour l'Italie... Objectif: Venise-Rome ou Rome-Venise. En profitant de RyanAir, ca peut etre un chouette voyage pas cher... Par contre, est-ce que quelqu'un a l'experience du velo en Italie... En Toscane (cad de Florence a Rome), il semble y avoir de beaux petits chemins mais de venise a Florence, j'ai peur de la circulation...! Y a til des chemins de halages, sentiers de grande randonnees ou de chouettes petites routes par la bas ??? Tous les conseils ou renseignements sont les bienvenus!
Bons plans Pologne et Pays Baltes English translation pending
by Zoilo · 2005-01-16 · 2 replies
Bonjour,

Je voudrais rester environ un mois en Pologne (Mazurie) et dans les pays baltes enutilisant le plus possible les chemins de terre ou les toutes petites routes pour rester au plus près des populations.. Quelqu'un a-t-il cette expérience ?

Merci de vos conseils
Voyage dans les parcs de l'ouest américain avec enfants English translation pending
by Ddlm · 2004-11-01 · 11 replies
Nous envisageons d'aller dans les parcs de l'Ouest avec 3 enfants (6, 11 et 13 ans). Durée envisagée: 2 semaines, début ou mi juillet.

Quelqu'un a-t-il une expérience sur ce sujet:

la température est-elle acceptable?

Y a-t-il beaucoup de monde (et quoi/quand éviter?)

Avez vous des idées de circuit, compte tenu du temps dont nous disposons? Ou vaut-il mieux consacrer ce temps?

Que vaut-il mieux choisir: voiture+motel, ou camping-car ?

Merci d'avance pour vos avis éclairés !
Villes d'Italie qui bougent! English translation pending
by Lilbee · 2004-10-26 · 8 replies
bonjour à tous,

je souhaiterais savoir quelles sont les villes d Italie qui bougent en été ( fêtes, discothèques, ambiance, jeunes..) car à 18 ans on cherche des villes ou s éclater!! et si en plus on peut en profiter pr visiter la bella Italia allora è perfetto!!!

Merci beaucoup de votre réponse!😎
Argentine: Pourquoi ne savent ils pas conduire? English translation pending
by Herge · 2004-10-16 · 20 replies
Bonne question n est ce pas ?

Comme je l ai deja dit dans un autre message, les accidents de route sont en Argentine (et encore plus en Bolivie ou au Perou) choses communes, pourtant les deplacements se font le plus souvent justement avec les compagnies de bus. ( depuis la mort des trains ).

A cette question : "pourquoi ne savent ils pas conduire ? ", je n ai pas encore reussi a y repondre, ou plutot tout un tas de idees me traversent l esprit.....indifference, non respects des regles les plus elementaires, manque de controle, parc automobile viellissant..etc....

En tout cas, la liste des accidents de bus s allongent comme a l accoutumee......... doit on en faire etat ? ou cela doit il passer dans les statistiques ? est il plus dangereux de partir en Argentine ou en Bolivie en bus que de partir au Perou a la recherche du Sentier Lumineux ou faire un reportage sur les FARC en Colombie ?

Si je parle des accidents, vais je vous faire peur et faire fuir le tourisme d'Argentine ? et pourquoi ?

Alors ?voulez vous connaitre la situation reelle en Argentine et dans les autres pays de la zone, ou preferer vous suivre les guides des offices de tourisme ?

Dites le moi !

Aujourd hui samedi 16 octobre 2004, a 7h du matin sur la route n#7 au km 737 ( province de San Luis ) le bus reliant Buenos Aires - San Luis de la societe TAC a percuté un camion de demenagement .

Bilan : 3 morts et 21 blessés

Cause : le conducteur du bus s est endormi !

Alors voila, que faire ? Boycotter tous les bus de l entreprise TAC en Argentine ? A vous de me le dire !

A bientot ! Chau Herge
Sécurité au Népal English translation pending
by Asieviolette · 2004-06-29 · 8 replies
Hello,

J'ai prévu de partir 3 semaines au Népal début octobre (je sais comme tout le monde 😉). Sur le site du Ministère des Affaires étrangères, il est fortement déconseillé d'y aller 😕 mais comme je suis bretonne (donc un peu tétue) je préfère trouver un deuxième avis. Alors c'est quoi votre avis ?

Merci à tous et à bientot sur la route.
3 weeks in Laos, stress-free
by Fabhyène · 2026-06-14 · 83 replies
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...

This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions... So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted. Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some! Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!

I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!

Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.



In broad strokes, it was very classic:

First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to. From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km! Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites. We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.

A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized. We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line! At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris. You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!

With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter. To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
Provence - Cycling Around the Luberon, EuroVelo 8, and Other Bike Routes
by Simonthread · 2026-06-09 · 3 replies
Hi there!

I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.



It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.









One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.





We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.







Our full story:

Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence

You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:

Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes

S.
Looking for quiet accommodation in Longji Rice Terraces
by Siberianna · 2026-03-05 · 3 replies
Hi there,

We’re planning a trip to China for two at the beginning of April and want to spend 2 nights in the Longji Rice Terraces—either in Dazhai, Tiantouzhaï, or Ping'an. I’ve seen that most of the hotels are made of bamboo, and you can hear every little noise. Since my husband is a very light sleeper, he’d really like to be sure he’ll get a good night’s rest. Can you recommend any quiet, well-soundproofed hotels in the area?

Thanks in advance! !
Parking and Viewpoints for Lake Tahoe Visits
by Marcalamar · 2026-03-02 · 2 replies
Good evening, everyone! 🙂 Just a few last questions to wrap up our Lake Tahoe visit plans.

**Parking:** We’d like to walk to Eagle Falls and then Eagle Lake. I’ve spotted two parking lots that seem close to each other and give access to the trailhead. Where and how do we pay for entry to Emerald Bay State Park and Inspiration Point?

**Viewpoints on the East Side:** Are most of the viewpoints (Balancing Rock, Granite Cave, Bonsai Rock, etc.) right by the road, or do you have to hike to reach them?

**Donner Memorial State Park:** Is it worth making a detour to Truckee to visit this park and the Truckee historic downtown?

Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Marloth Park: What transportation options are there inside the park (without a vehicle)?
by Citronmerise · 2025-08-21 · 6 replies
Hi there, we’ll be staying in Marloth Park in February 2026. We’re booking local providers for safaris and excursions, but we don’t want to rent a car (airport shuttle, safety concerns, driving on the left). We’d love to get around by bike or another way inside the park (we have young kids). What solutions would you recommend? We’ll be at Jabula Hotel, about 6 km from the bike rental shop—is there another option? Inside the park, there’s no vehicle rental available.
Can you drive with just one license plate (Quebec) in Europe?
by Guygli67 · 2025-08-18 · 7 replies
I’m traveling with my Quebec-registered vehicle, which only has one license plate, but several European countries require two. Can I still drive with just one plate?
Cycling Thread – Europe’s Most Beautiful Bike Paths
by Simonthread · 2025-07-23 · 6 replies
Hi there! I’m Simon, and for years I’ve been exploring some of Europe’s most beautiful and well-equipped bike paths. My passion for cycling led me to start a blog where I share my travel impressions, practical tips, and photos taken along the way. I ride both well-known routes like the Alpe-Adria, the Loire à Vélo, and the Rhein Route, as well as lesser-known but equally charming regions.



In my stories, I pay special attention to the quality of infrastructure, cyclist safety, and route accessibility—for young and old, experienced riders and beginners alike. I love discovering and sharing spots that are truly welcoming for cycle tourists: well-marked, with rest areas and easy train access.

On the blog, you’ll find ready-to-follow route suggestions, tips for preparing your bike trips, and plenty of inspiration for your next adventures. I travel with my panniers, a camera in the front bag, and always keep an eye out for what’s around me. Feel free to check out my blog, Cycling Thread—you might find some ideas for your next bike getaway! :-)

* * *

I hope this won’t just be a one-off post—I’ll try to share our bike trips with you here regularly. To start: our May trip on the Elberadweg, the queen of German bike paths, between the stunning city of Dresden and Magdeburg. I invite you to visit:

Elberadweg in Germany – From Dresden to Magdeburg

The Elbe bike path is about 1200 km long, following the river from its source in the Giant Mountains in the Czech Republic to its mouth in Cuxhaven, on the North Sea. The route crosses a variety of landscapes: mountain valleys, vineyards, open plains, and coastline. As is often the case in Germany, the signage is excellent and the route easy to follow.

But what surprised us was the number of cobblestone sections! Sure, the cobblestones are well-laid and fairly smooth—but they’re still cobblestones. And when they disappear, they’re often replaced by concrete slabs, typical of river dikes. That’s just part of the face of this 30-year-old "queen"—a heritage that’s hard to replace entirely with fresh asphalt.

Along the way, don’t miss the many cultural highlights. Dresden impresses with its restored old town, the Frauenkirche, and the Brühl Terraces along the Elbe—it’s one of Germany’s most elegant cities. In Meissen, you can visit the famous porcelain factory and its Gothic cathedral. Wittenberg is a must-stop to follow in Martin Luther’s footsteps, with its castle church and Reformation Museum. And to finish, in Dessau-Roßlau, besides the Bauhaus, don’t miss the stunning Dessau-Wörlitz landscape gardens—one of the oldest English-style parks in Europe.

A few photos to give you a feel for the route and inspire you to check out our blog! :-)











Happy cycling!

Simon
The Tren Maya
by Doxy436 · 2025-04-01 · 11 replies
TREN MAYA in Yucatán We’re just back from our 7th or 8th trip to the Yucatán since 1971, and it’ll probably be our last (a little tear). We’ve crisscrossed the peninsula many times, but this post isn’t about listing the countless wonders to visit—there are already plenty of articles on that part of Mexico. For this trip, we chose to travel by train to try out this new way of getting around.

The TREN MAYA routes roughly follow the coast in a loop: Cancún – Valladolid – Mérida – Campeche – Escárcega – Chetumal – Tulum – Playa del Carmen – Cancún, with the main stations listed here and usually 2 or 3 stops in between. A branch line runs from Escárcega to Palenque. We only traveled the Cancún – Mérida – Escárcega – Palenque section, as the loop via Chetumal wasn’t open when we planned our trip. Besides, Chetumal itself isn’t very interesting. However, the Escárcega–Chetumal route has lots of Maya sites worth visiting.

The tracks, stations, and rolling stock are all brand new. The Tulum–Mérida section opened in early 2024, and the full loop was inaugurated at the end of 2024. The trains currently consist of 4 tourist-class cars and 2 first-class cars. I imagine this setup might change, since first class was nearly empty while tourist class was between 25% and 70% full, depending on the time and route.

The cars are designed by Alstom and built in Mexico, with the same seating layout as in France: 2+2 in tourist class and 2+1 in first class. The seats are a bit more comfortable than in France for tourist class and slightly firmer in first class.

The track is very well laid on the Cancún–Mérida–Escárcega section we traveled: no jolts at all. However, the Escárcega–Palenque branch is likely built with short rails, so I don’t think it’ll support very high speeds. The line is single-track except for the Cancún–Valladolid–Mérida stretch, which is double-track, and electrification is underway. Signaling is also being installed—the targets are in place but not yet operational. Given the current low traffic, we weren’t too worried.

The trains are diesel-electric hybrids and very quiet in diesel mode. I clocked a speed of 140 km/h, and they say it’ll reach 200 km/h once electrified.

Now, the stations: *grand* is the word that comes to mind. The architects did an amazing job aesthetically—it reminds us of Canfranc, with the same spirit 150 years apart, using marble (?) for the flooring. Technically, though, at least in Valladolid station, it’s a miss—they’ve already added unattractive metal reinforcements to the concrete framework barely a year after the inauguration.

Practical info: Tickets can be bought online on the Tren Maya website.

But contrary to what the *Routard* guide says, you can only book about a week in advance. So, we bought our tickets for the first leg, Cancún–Valladolid, from France, and then got the rest at the station a few days ahead. It seems there’s no ticket sales in travel agencies.

Arrive at the station about 20–30 minutes early, as there are airport-style security checks. Right now, the staff are still getting the hang of the baggage scanners and metal detectors, which can be a bit amusing.

Important note: This is a completely new rail network, so the tracks—and especially the stations—are far from city centers. To get downtown, you’ll need to take a shuttle or a taxi.

Here’s the breakdown for station-to-downtown travel: - **Cancún**: There are shuttles between the airports and the station (35 MXN/person). Taxis are pricier than in NYC: 50 € (1000 MXN) for a 10-minute ride—it’s an organized scam, but at least it’s clean, which is more than you can say for Cancún. If you’re staying at a hotel in Cancún or Playa del Carmen, make sure to arrange the hotel shuttle in advance. - **Valladolid**: 15 minutes from downtown, 150 MXN by taxi, or 36 MXN/person by shuttle, which drops you 3 *cuadras* (a *cuadra* = a block ≈ 100 m) from the center. - **Mérida**: 30 minutes from downtown, 300 MXN by taxi, or 50 MXN/person by shuttle, which drops you 7 or 8 *cuadras* from the center. The ticket agent told us it was just 1 *cuadra* (and we’re perfectly bilingual, so no confusion), but dragging suitcases over broken sidewalks in 33°C heat with no taxis in sight? Not great. So, for Mérida, just take a taxi. - **Campeche**: 10 minutes from downtown, 50 MXN by shuttle, which drops you right in the center (at the *Malecón*, across from the Gamma Hotel). We didn’t see any taxis at the station. - **Palenque**: Most hotels are outside the city center, so a taxi is a must—around 150 to 250 MXN.

Don’t forget to agree on the taxi fare with the driver before getting in.

For Tren Maya fares, there’s a rate for non-Mexican residents and several others for residents based on income. Here are the non-resident fares per person: - Cancún – Valladolid: 472 MXN (539 MXN on the return) - Valladolid – Mérida: 505.50 MXN (553 MXN on the return) - Mérida – Campeche: 574 MXN - Campeche – Palenque: 1300 MXN - Escárcega – Palenque: 789 MXN

The main reason we chose the train over renting a car (our usual go-to) was that on our last trip, just before COVID in 2020, the rental company refused to insure us in Chiapas due to safety concerns. So, we had to skip Palenque—but with the Tren Maya, it became possible again. The big downside of the train is that you need shuttles or taxis to visit all the Maya sites, which adds up in cost and time.

**Conclusion**: If you add up the train fares, taxis, etc., it might be better to rent a car for the whole trip and leave it in a hotel parking lot in Campeche or Escárcega for a couple of days if you want to visit Palenque. Then, take the train for a round trip between Campeche–Palenque or Escárcega–Palenque.

Safe travels! *
Nothing’s stopping you from going to Ampefy (Madagascar)
by Rotsaka · 2025-01-01 · 3 replies
During these three big weeks in Madagascar, one week in Sainte Marie, a few days for a little loop in the west/south, and the rest in Tana. This loop I’m talking about covers an area I’d never taken the time to visit before. A recent road in good condition, the chance to pass through beautiful highland landscapes, and a few free days made it the perfect opportunity. Destination: Ampefy, west of Tana via the RN1, then a turn south onto the recently rehabilitated RN43 to reach Antsirabe before heading back to Tana. Four days planned—perfect, since an extra day wouldn’t have been a problem given all the activities in Ampefy.

First day: a relaxed and fairly late departure for Ampefy. We weren’t in a rush and took our time. Traffic leaving Tana to get back on the RN1 cost us the head start we had on our original schedule. An hour and a half bumper-to-bumper with the *buxis*, inching painfully toward the roundabout and then the bridge that acts as a bottleneck—we dove in like all our fellow sufferers. It’s not our everyday reality, and we were early, so no big deal, but man, it’s long and slow. Once past that obstacle, traffic flowed smoothly, and the road was good (all the way to Ampefy). We moved through highland landscapes, bustling villages full of activity, and countless agricultural supply shops—clear proof, if any were needed, that we were crossing a prime farming region. Around Arivonimamo, we passed through a forest with a Mediterranean vibe: a single-species forest of stout little trees with glossy, elongated light-green leaves—these are *tapia*. An endemic tree in Madagascar, and a pretty unique forest as a result (you can see them elsewhere, like between Antsirabe and Ambositra). There are efforts to protect it from illegal logging because the wood is fire-resistant, which helps shield the forest from wildfires. Beyond its biodiversity value, the *tapia* hosts silkworms, giving it economic and cultural importance.

As we kept going, we started spotting a lake and mountains with the rounded shapes typical of extinct volcanoes worn down by time and the elements. We were approaching Lake Itasy and, by extension, Ampefy. We stopped at a *hotely* for a plate of *tongon’kisoa*—pig’s trotters caramelized by cooking, with thick, flavorful skin—along with the obligatory portion of rice, which we took the time to drizzle with cooking juices to make it a bit more appetizing. Full, we turned left to reach Ampefy and our hotel. The landscape was dotted with collapsed, dormant volcanic cones, and suddenly, the view opened up onto the lake. Shallow and expansive, we followed it, losing sight of it now and then before finding it again in Ampefy itself, which we entered after crossing the Lily, a beautiful river that drains the lake. Lots of hotels and restaurants, with plenty of options at all price points. We chose the *Farihy*, about 5 km past Ampefy. A gorgeous spot by the lake, with a pool and lovely bungalows—some with picture windows overlooking the lake. Really nice. In the evening, a drink and some *sak sak* for aperitif on the terrace. It wasn’t warm, there was a lot of wind, and a storm was brewing. Off to bed quickly to start the next day’s visits.

After buying some lychees—we hadn’t seen many this year, and these were fresh from the field, picked in Ampefy—we headed to the Lily Falls. Well signposted, with a paved road in great condition, we stopped at the kiosk for the entrance fee and parking (1 euro for one *vahiny* and 10 cents for one Malagasy). We set off down the path and quickly reached the first waterfall, then continued for maybe 1 km on a well-marked trail to the second. A guide led us to the third, which is harder to spot and isn’t actually on the Lily itself. Beautiful countryside scenery: fishermen straight out of *Tom Sawyer*, straw hats on their heads, lying down with one foot hooked to a fragile bamboo rod, their line dipping into the calm river. Men preparing rice paddies with their *angady*, women transplanting rice, bent over the water. At some points, we walked along the dikes between paddies almost ready for harvest. It’s peaceful and beautiful when you’re strolling or fishing, but working the paddies is grueling, especially under that beating sun. A really nice walk—2 hours and a bit, going at a leisurely pace. A guide isn’t mandatory; only the entrance fee is. We took one because it provides a bit of work and puts money in the hands of locals, giving them more incentive to protect the site. But you can easily skip it, like most people do. Lots of visitors since it was the weekend—Tananarivians with family or groups of young people, scout groups organized under their chaperones’ direction. Very few foreign tourists, though—that’s a general observation. It’s great to see this growth in domestic tourism, giving Malagasy people the chance to discover their own country and allowing those in the sector to rely less on foreign visitors, who’ve been scarce for years.

Next, we headed to the "geysers" (which aren’t actually geysers, but whatever). We had to go back to the RN1, head toward Tsiroanomandidy, and a few kilometers later, a well-marked sign and a newly paved track led us to a pretty site. Again, lots of people, another kiosk, more fees to pay, and guides available. This time, we skipped the guide. A downpour caught us in front of the "geysers," so we took shelter under a little shop, grabbing an ice cream and some drinks. We didn’t stay long—we weren’t interested in a massage or a dip in the thermal water. The countryside and barren mountain landscapes were stunning on the way back to the hotel. We noticed you could go paragliding right in front of the bungalow, so we booked a session for the next morning. After eating at the *Auberge* in the town center (it was good), we headed back to the hotel to turn in early. Once again, a storm rolled in during the afternoon, and the temperature dropped significantly.

The next morning, around 8 a.m., we walked to the takeoff zone near the hotel. Towed by a small boat, we took off for a flight over the lake and the volcanic domes before landing back at the same spot. Two companies handle this. I’m no expert, but it seemed safe and well-organized.

To be continued...
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