3 weeks in Laos, stress-free
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Translated into English.

Original post
FA
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...

This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions... So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted. Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some! Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!

I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!

Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.



In broad strokes, it was very classic:

First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to. From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km! Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites. We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.

A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized. We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line! At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris. You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!

With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter. To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
So, what about Luang Prabang?



It’s hard not to be charmed. The historic center is compact, so you can wander around, get a little lost (well, sort of—it’s on a grid 😉), all on foot or by bike. There’s plenty to keep you busy for several days if you want to take it slow and ease up on the pace.

Luckily, its UNESCO World Heritage status effectively protects the old town from financial calculations that would lead to tearing down historic buildings to make way for luxury residences. Of course, that doesn’t stop some speculation: in the heart of the historic center, outside the monasteries and pagodas, you’ll find many beautiful old colonial-style houses, renovated into restaurants, shops, or upscale guesthouses—but always respecting the original buildings. And as soon as you step into the side streets, you’re quickly immersed in "real life," with the local population.

But enough chit-chat. On the afternoon of our first day in Luang Prabang, a bit jet-lagged from the trip, we settled in (we’d be staying for 7 nights) and allowed ourselves a controlled nap of about an hour. After grabbing a drink in the garden, we left the hotel as the light started to fade. We walked past the monastery next door (hello, little monks)...

and were immediately immersed in the atmosphere.



We knew we wouldn’t last long that evening, so we headed toward the night market—just a 15-minute walk from our hotel. We wandered through a few small streets where vendors were already setting up, and it filled us with joy to rediscover the lively atmosphere of Asian markets.



The day was already fading, and night would fall quickly.



We retreated to the large square lined with tables, chairs, and little kitchen stalls.

You point to what you want, put together your bowl (veggies, noodles, meat, etc.), pay, and if it needs to be cooked (stir-fried or deep-fried) or reheated, they give you a number on a little stand, and they’ll bring it to your table.





In the evening, families and groups of young people gather here to enjoy street food, mixed in with tourists. There’s something for every taste and budget... While the restaurants in the historic city nearby are quite expensive (compared to the rest of Laos), here you can eat really well for very little! Hygiene seems decent—we ate here several times, including from small stalls in the side streets, and had no issues (though we’re not exactly delicate).

After stuffing ourselves with food and soaking up the atmosphere, we headed back to our hotel. In the monastery courtyard, young monks were laughing around a big fire and greeted us warmly.



The first night was good, except for our little monk neighbors who have nighttime duties... Around 2 AM, we heard *ding ding ding diling* for a few minutes—something light, half-asleep. Then, around 4 AM, as the night started to lighten, a full-on drumming session began, building up in intensity. We got dressed quickly—we *had* to see this.

After about twenty minutes of varied drumming—some frantic, some slower—the calm returned... and we went back to bed and fell asleep (luckily!).

In the morning, we were fresh and ready to explore the city.

Below, our little drummers, in daylight 🙂



To be continued: Mount Phou Si

A few practical tips: - The hotel we stayed at is called Villa Maydou, on the southern edge of the historic area—about a 15-20 minute walk away. A lovely place, set in pavilions, some restored old buildings, others newer but built to respect UNESCO’s guidelines. Nice bar in the garden by the small pool, and a pleasant breakfast. - Besides the night market, we tried a few restaurants and were never disappointed. As I mentioned earlier, restaurants in Luang Prabang’s historic center are much pricier than elsewhere in the country, though it’s still affordable for us, of course. For Lao cuisine, we really enjoyed Tamarind and Bamboo Tree Restaurant, and for a change: a great wood-fired pizza at Popolo Cantina. We especially loved the Lao barbecue experience, with a cast-iron grill filled with coals built into the table, at Dyen Sabai. It’s located on the other side of the Nam Kham River, which you cross via a delicate but sturdy bamboo footbridge. The terrace is gorgeous. At nightfall, lanterns are hung all along the bridge—romantic vibes guaranteed. Reservations are *highly* recommended—it’s a very popular spot.
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
How sweet it is to take your time...

The more time passes, the more we feel the need to slow down when we travel. I know some see it as wasting time, but for us, it’s about savoring it. Our first four days were super relaxed, with visits at our own pace, walks, and workshops (cooking, dyeing). We also love setting aside time to read, listen to music, and simply soak in the moment. Luang Prabang seemed perfect for that!

The city is packed with wonders, and I have to make some tough choices with the photos...

First, I’ll share the lovely walk that takes you to the top of Mount Phou Si, right in the heart of the old town. The upper part is a sanctuary, covered in altars and topped with a pagoda. Mount Phou Si (it’s more like a big hill) offers amazing views of the city—first over the Nam Khan River, and then, from the summit, the Mekong.





I read in some travel journals that the joy of the visit was spoiled by crowds. We were definitely lucky—at the start of 2023, we made the climb almost alone, though it was early in the morning. It’s only at the very top that we found a few people, but it was still very manageable.

Dozens of Buddhas of all sizes hide in crevices, under trees, and around staircases.













The grand nagas line the staircases...



In the cool of the morning, with the shade of the trees, the climb didn’t feel too tough—especially taking our time.



I’ve hit the 10-photo limit... To be continued in the next post with the historic city.
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
The old town is truly stunning. So much greenery and flowers.



Mostly restored colonial houses;



so many pagodas—some very famous and crowded, but by wandering around and methodically exploring the city, you’ll find very modest ones that are charming and peaceful at the same time.









FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
As mentioned in the previous post, you just have to go with the flow... Here, beauty is accessible at every street corner. What’s really relaxing is that everything can be done on foot since the area is relatively small. Plus, tourist groups (mostly Chinese) stick to the most famous temples.

So much finesse in the details...











Always these stunning pavilions (here, the Royal Palace)





And then these countless Buddhas...







We spiced up these days with two workshops:

A cooking class, which you can book directly at the Bamboo Tree restaurant. They drive you to a villa in the countryside where you cook Lao dishes—it’s a lot of fun, and afterward, you share a joyful lunch. A dyeing workshop. For this one, you’ll need to arrange transport to the site, Ock Pop Tok Hok, where they use natural dyes from plants, bark, and minerals. Super interesting! The site also has a restaurant with a beautiful terrace overlooking the Mekong. There’s a shop where you can buy lovely silk creations and handwoven items (which explains the cost, as it’s a fair-trade business where workers are paid fairly).

Coming up: two lovely excursions from Luang Prabang!
KA Kate Globetrotter ·
Of course I'm here 😉 Will there be drawings?... At least one?
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hello

Me too! It’ll probably make me want to visit the south, which I don’t know yet 😉(and later, I’d love to revisit Oman...)
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Laos—a land already much more familiar to me than the recent Japan trip—but I never tire of returning to this corner of the globe where life still moves at a relaxed pace. I’m off now! !
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
Of course I’m here 😉 We’ll get some drawings, right?... At least one?

Sabaïdiiiiiiiiiii Kate! Promise, at least one! 😉
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
Hello

Me too! It’ll probably make me want to visit the south, which I don’t know yet 😉(and later, I’d love to revisit Oman...)

Welcome, Muriel!
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
Laos, a land already much more familiar to me than recent Japan, but I never tire of returning to this corner of the globe where the pace of life still reigns

Oh yeah, that’s really the most lasting impression I have. Taking your time. I’ve seen hilarious scenes of hyper-stressed tourists clashing with that unshakable calm. It’s not laziness or indifference at all—it’s just that you’re waiting for a coffee, not performing open-heart surgery...

I’m off then!

There’s still room in the flowery minivan, and we always need a mountain lover!
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
Boat day: temples, villages, and the Pak Ou caves

Today, we met our guide, Viengkham, who’ll be with us all the way to the south. A laid-back fifty-something with dry humor, he’s a pro at striking up conversations in villages—whether with elders or women. A wink, a joke, showing interest in what they do... and just like that, we’re the ones being asked questions, hearing the same stories over and over: where we’re from, our age, if we have kids or parents, whether we live in a village or a city, and so on.

We crossed a morning market to reach the docks. Oh, look—a stall with roasted rats coated in a brownish sauce.



We asked Viengkham about it, and with a half-smile, he replied, "Everything’s edible... Eve-ry-thing’s e-di-ble," enunciating each syllable. We’d hear that line a lot. Even three years later, my husband and I still toss it back and forth when something sketchy ends up on our plates...

We set off for the day, heading to the Pak Ou caves, with plenty of stops along the Mekong. Lunch was on the boat. If you can, I’d recommend this option—it’s more than just a round trip between Luang Prabang and Pak Ou. Sure, there are "arranged" stops (the potters’ village, the weavers’ village), but it never feels like a trap. The offers are made gently, without pressure. And who knows? You might just find yourself tempted—all for your enjoyment!

Below, the docks of Luang Prabang on the Mekong, lined with majestic trees.



What we loved most—aside from the caves—were the pagodas and monasteries right across the Mekong from Luang Prabang (Vat Chomphet and Vat Lonkhoune).



The temple below is exceptional: once you cross the threshold, past its two Chinese-style guardians, you enter a hall covered in frescoes.













To be continued!
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·


Along the way, we also stopped in a large weaving village, San Hai (or Xang Hai); it starts with a welcome around a still, followed by a stroll through the streets lined with small shops. A pretty pagoda is hidden in the middle of the village.



We have a light lunch on the water, watching the landscapes drift by (very slowly, as we’re going upstream on the Mekong). The riverbanks are high, most villages are out of sight, but the surroundings of Pak Ou are stunning, even if the photos don’t do them justice—the light is so bright it flattens everything.



Pak Ou

We arrive in Pak Ou during the hottest hours of the day, and there’s almost no one around. A flight of steps leads us to the first cave, and you can’t help but be fascinated by the piles of Buddhas of all sizes. Their aging is accelerated by the constant humidity, so you never know if they’re 5, 10, 100, or 1,000 years old... but does it really matter?



Next, we take the stairs up to a second cave, lower but deeper. Here again, thousands of Buddhas, from the most ornate to the simplest.



It’s time to head back, and all we have to do is weave our way through the many boats starting to arrive and pile up (the afternoon visits), then let the current carry us down to Luang Prabang.









As we arrive in Luang Prabang, the stupa crowning Mount Phou Si glows under the slanting rays of the late-afternoon sun.

Tonight, a little treat at a great restaurant we reach via a footbridge over the Nam Khan River (Dyen Sabai restaurant, mentioned in a previous post).

Tomorrow, Kuang Si Falls, after a lovely walk through the countryside.
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
Kuang Si Waterfalls

Today, a new excursion with a 3-hour hike to reach the Kuang Si Falls.

Of course, you can get dropped off by car or bus directly at the falls, but I recommend this little hike that starts from charming villages (e.g., Long Lao Ban), which are about 2 to 3 hours' walk from the falls, depending on your starting point. It’s a hike offered by a few agencies, but you can also do it solo—it’s an easy route! If you go solo, you’ll need to get dropped off in one of the villages by private vehicle, but for the return trip, public transport is available. Don’t forget to pack a light picnic, swimsuits, and towels.

The walk is very pleasant. The starting villages (Hmong) are charming, and you won’t run into many people—everyone’s at work!







You’ll cross beautiful countryside and farmland,







then enter the undergrowth and finally the tropical forest. The route isn’t difficult—you more or less follow valleys. There are two small climbs that’ll make you catch your breath, but you recover quickly. Just take it at your own pace. You’ll stop here and there (several small altars or religious sites).



Before the waterfalls, there’s a picnic area. A group of schoolchildren is there, horsing around and pushing each other into the water.



Beyond the hike itself, the advantage is that you arrive at the top of the falls, where you’ll descend via a large staircase carved into the rock (I’d much rather do it going down than up). It’s even better because I’ve read in other travel journals that if you arrive from the bottom and climb up, you’re disappointed when you reach the top—there’s not much to see compared to the cascades.

So, before rushing into a stunning waterfall, the river has carved out "natural pools" that you "step over" via wooden footbridges. You can swim, like this group of monks, but it’ll be even nicer down below.



Watch out: the staircase leading to the bottom of the falls is the trickiest part. In the dry season, the stone was covered with a thin layer of dirt, making the steps very slippery, even with good shoes. Hold onto the railings (when there are any) and, above all, grab branches and roots. Though I suppose during the monsoon, they’re just as slippery!

To be continued in the next post!
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
Kuang Si, continued





At the foot of the falls, the river flows into turquoise pools… It’s magical!





Fortunately, swimming is banned in the first pools, which helps preserve the site’s beauty, but a little further on there are spots where you can relax in the cool water—super refreshing after the hike.





We’re caught up in the social media era… we witness some hilarious photo sessions with Instagram influencers getting snapped by their assistants to show off their muscles or the curve of their backs on their accounts.



Next, we head back to the parking lot where our vehicle is waiting. But there are also plenty of public buses.

It was a great day!

To be continued in the next post with a little getaway further north...
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
A beautiful way to discover these magnificent waterfalls.

la cambrure de leurs reins.

I only believe what I see 😉
AL Aleph240758 Veteran ·
Hello, I'm heading off too—I can't wait to explore the south, which I haven't visited yet.
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
A beautiful way to discover these magnificent waterfalls.

the curve of their backs.

I only believe what I see 😉

Haha, these influencers already show enough of themselves—I won’t add to it 🙂
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
Hello, I'm heading off too—I can't wait to discover the south, which I haven't explored yet.

Come on, let's go... After one last stop in the north. That said, the North is still my favorite part!
FA Fabhyène Veteran ·
Enchanted parenthesis

Starting from Luang Prabang, we took a 3-day getaway to a small village in the middle of rice fields, a bit further north. On the agenda: a 3-hour car ride to Nong Khiaw, one night there, then a 2-hour boat trip to Muang Noi, followed by a 2-hour walk to the small village of Ban Na, where we’ll spend 2 nights in a little guesthouse run by Mama Kham.

The car ride, not counting stops, takes about 3 hours. It’s a fairly busy road with lots of trucks, but we drive slowly. We make quite a few stops—to visit a roadside village, take some landscape photos, buy mandarins and bananas.















Big tadpoles... Can you eat them, Viengkham? "Everything’s edible... Eve-ry-thing!"

When we arrive in Nong Khiaw, we need to stretch our legs and head up to one of the viewpoints overlooking the town. We chose the lower one, which still offers a stunning view. The setting is paradise-like: a river winding between mountains (the Nam Ou River) and, on either side of a big bend, a small town. Access to the viewpoint is paid (I don’t remember the price, but it’s very reasonable, and it goes toward maintaining the bamboo bridge and especially the stairs carved into the mountainside). The hike up takes 30 to 40 minutes, uphill (maybe 20 minutes for fit people who don’t need as many breaks as we do). It’s a steady climb, with well-maintained dirt steps (though they must get slippery during the monsoon). It’s not too hard—just take breaks as needed, and make sure to bring water (it’s really hot) and wear proper shoes. Bonus: you’re shaded the whole way, as the climb is through trees. At the end, you go up two ladders, but don’t worry—they’re sturdy, and it’s only a few meters. At the top, the view is absolutely worth it, and sitting on the little benches, we savor our small bananas bought earlier by the roadside with a sense of contentment and gratitude.





We see a young tourist running up (he must’ve made it in 10 minutes), he glances around, takes a selfie, and runs back down. I think he stayed just long enough for us to eat half a banana!



Tonight, we’re staying at a hotel away from the town, in a lush, sloping site down to the river (Nongkhiaw Resort—a recent complex with sleek architecture, shaped like traditional pavilions but with modern materials). The place is deserted (only two rooms are occupied). It’s quite magical, and we enjoy the end of the day with a drink at sunset after a quick dip in the pool.

We hear distant music from the town—apparently, there are weddings, which we’ll confirm over the next few days. We’re told people came from all around to attend.

While sipping our Lao beers on the terrace, a big boat pulls up in front of our hotel, blasting music—it’s a full-on party! We wait it out, and it finally moves away once night falls... and calm returns. We hear what sounds like crickets or cicadas, along with frogs.

We’re in heaven.

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