Results for "Neuf-Brisach+|+127"

Hi Has anyone taken the CFC recently?

Thoughts?

Thanks

We're considering a new cruise soon and would like to try the Renaissance. The uniqueness of the promenade cabins appeals to us, but could anyone give us some insights on the following points: - Is the glass door sufficiently tinted to prevent outsiders from seeing into the cabin? - Is the soundproofing good enough to block out conversations on the promenade deck? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

Hi everyone, I rented a car through Klaus Wagen, picking it up in downtown Porto and returning it in downtown Lisbon. After paying, I read some pretty negative reviews about them. So, can anyone reassure me with positive experiences they’ve had with them? Thanks in advance!

Hi there, We’re planning a trip to South Africa and thinking of renting a car. Is it straightforward, and are there any companies to avoid or others you’d recommend?

We just realized our international driving permit has expired, and the French administration says it’ll take 5 months to get a new one. Is it possible to rent a car without this famous international permit?

Thanks in advance for all your tips!

Hi, I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car. I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others... Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot. I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs? A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me. Thanks for your feedback!

Hi there,

A quick recap of our 19-day trip to China – classic itinerary, half-family: dad and 13-year-old son, August 2025.

Arrived in Shanghai, the idea was to explore the city in the evening to help with jet lag. Day 1: Maglev (50 CNY), then metro to the hotel, night cruise on the Huangpu River, admiring the skyline. Day 2: Yuyuan Garden (meh), Lujiazui district, sunset from the top of Jinmao Tower, stroll along the Bund, admiring the skyline. Day 3: Chaos at the Shanghai Museum – should’ve booked in advance. Backup plan: Longhua Temple (nice), Tianzi Fang district (great). Day 4: Aquarium (okay), Pearl Tower, Fake Market (top), then flight to Guilin. Taxi from Guilin to Yangshuo (400 CNY arranged by the hotel). Verdict: Maybe one day too many. Late mornings (jet lag) kept us from visiting the water town. Day 5: Yangshuo – scooter ride (40 CNY) along the Yulong River. Day 6: Early Didi (30 min) to the top of Xiang Gong Shan (ideally for sunrise). Then a walk through the countryside to the Li River, crossing by boat (10 CNY) to Xingping. You can shorten the walk by flagging down a mini-shuttle that shuttles Chinese tourists in the opposite direction. Explored Xingping, scooter ride, 20 CNY viewpoint, sunset from Laozhai Hill, back to Yangshuo. Day 7: Scooter ride to spots we missed on Day 5. Verdict: It’s stunning. Might be worth staying in Guilin the first night and booking a cruise to Yangshuo the next day on the Li River. Day 8: Bus (4/5h, 100 CNY) to Longji/Dazhai. Hotel in Tianzhouzai – I think it’s better to stay in Ping’an, it’s more typical. Dazhai is generally overdeveloped. Day 9: Full-day hike from Dazhai to Ping’an, then bus back to Dazhai. Super nice walk, only crossed paths with 4 people. Day 10: Walk around the top of Dazhai, but the trails are poorly maintained – no loop possible. Verdict: Gorgeous, probably one day too many, but the area is very rainy, so it’s good to have a buffer. Day 11: Private taxi (4/5h, 200 €) to Fenghuang. Explored the town in the evening – really nice. Day 12: Short visit to Fenghuang during the day, then train to Zhangjiajie and Wulingyuan. Hotel pool. Day 13: Early start: Zhangjiajie Park via Wulingyuan entrance, Route A (starting with the cable car). Fabulous. If I did it again, I’d take Route B to get early access to the section near the giant elevator. Day 14: Early start: Zhangjiajie Park via the south entrance – superb. Day 15: Wulingyuan Grand Canyon, glass bridge – nice but not essential. Day 16: Tianmen Mountain in the afternoon. You can leave your luggage at the entrance. Routes A and B sell out quickly. Note that Route C no longer uses buses to the top – there’s a brand-new cable car instead, which I think is actually better than A and B. Really nice, worth doing. Evening flight to Beijing. Verdict: The canyon could be done the same morning as Tianmen Mountain, or even skipped. Day 17: Visited the Forbidden City (book a week in advance!), missed the entry slot for Tiananmen Square (book in advance!) due to security checks. Visited the Lama Temple. Stayed in a hutong. Day 18: Great Wall at Mutianyu. Private taxi (100 € round trip – probably overpaid) to arrive before 7 AM. Then back to Beijing, Temple of Heaven, and finally the modest skyline from the mall at Guomao metro station. Day 19: Fake markets (pointless – they’re stripped of their usual goods compared to Shanghai’s), Summer Palace, then Wangfujing Street. Headed to the airport. Verdict: 3 days is too short for Beijing.

Overall impressions: Highlights: Incredible places (cities and landscapes), often vast and fascinating, a total change of scenery. Very easy and smooth to travel despite the clear language barrier. Excellent food, very affordable, very few scams. Lowlights: Intense heat and humidity in August, *way* too many tourists (99.9% Chinese), a real circus that makes the trip exhausting. Walking is tiring in the long run (even though we’re very active) because it’s all on stone paths and stairs. To avoid crowds, you’d need to wake up early every day – tough with kids, especially with jet lag.

Logistics: - Buses and private taxis arranged last-minute through hotels. - Didi is widely available everywhere, plentiful, and cheap. - Flights and trains booked on Trip.com a month in advance (fills up fast). - Hotels on Booking and Trip.com. Only the one in Yangshuo was booked well in advance – hotel capacity is huge everywhere. - Apps: Didi, Alipay, WeChat, Maps.me, Google Translate. Free 35 GB data plan, SIM card from the airport.

Hey there, community! Back this weekend, below is my travel journal from my adventure in Indonesia. Enjoy the read!!!

Day 1 - August 10, 2025 New life downloading for three weeks! And for that, Flo and I launched a public tender... A public tender? What’s that got to do with a travel journal???... Well, when you think about it, few destinations tick all the boxes for an August adventure: Meaning, finding a place that’s exotic in the middle of August, not too expensive, not too packed with tourists, warm but not *too* warm, with postcard-perfect landscapes, dreamy beaches, tasty cuisine with a hint of exoticism, friendly and welcoming locals, where you’re free to sleep under the stars among the mosquitos, take transport surrounded by chickens, and even eat from a pig trough if you feel like it—well, turns out it’s not that easy to find! I’d even say, given how thick the list of requirements is, there’s a big risk the tender could be declared unsuccessful for failing to meet just one criterion. Let’s just say the candidates better submit a rock-solid proposal!

After reviewing all the responses and presentations from the candidates, the obvious choice for us is... Indonesia! Except that trying to explore a country as vast as Indonesia and its 17,504 islands in less than five years is a bit like reading the summary of a Proust novel without taking the time to savor each of its 950 pages! Don’t worry, I won’t name them all here. Besides, do they even all have names? No! Only 7,870 have been named—their parents clearly ran out of ideas for the rest. Anyway, our society, which worships the "work more to earn more" mantra, unfortunately limits our adventure time. So we’ll only get to see a small part of Indonesia, and we’ll have to make a tough choice to head for the best of the best in this archipelago of over seventeen thousand islands. Each one has its own selling points: Sumatra, Sulawesi, Java, the Celebes, Bali, Borneo, Papua, Timor, the Moluccas... So many names that smell of adventure... Another tender, another list of requirements, another review of proposals... Drumroll... Splash splash... And the lucky winner is... Ta-da... Java, Bali’s big sister, where I’ve already been eight years ago... Java the programming language. The Java of Broadway. We’re gonna *do* the Java. Java the coffee. And yes, Java is also an island!

This island, four times smaller than France, is home to 136 million people, making it the most populated island in the world! Fun fact: Indonesia, with its 260 million inhabitants, is just shy of the podium for the world’s most populated countries, after the winning trio of India, China, and the United States. And it’s on this island of Java that you’ll find Jakarta, the (soon-to-be-former) capital and main airport of the country, where we’ll soon land after our nineteen-hour flight! Yep, nineteen hours! I mean, Indonesia in general—and Java in particular—is a *tad* farther than going on vacation to Grandma Yoyo’s! Not sure where it is? Easy. Grab a map. Plant your finger on the big island at the bottom right—aka Australia for those who struggle with geography—move it up two centimeters, and bam, welcome to Indonesia!



Nice transition, right? Because "Welcome to Indonesia" is exactly what the friendly flight attendant just said to me as we got off the plane! That’s it, our chakras are open, we’ve arrived at our (air)port. Time for rest, pool, cocktails, and a beach with our toes spread out... Wait, if you bought that, you clearly don’t know us yet! Since we still have energy to burn and need to adjust to the flight and time difference, we tackle the long administrative formalities to enter Indonesia, just to earn the right to hop in a 45-minute Grab taxi to the train station. The train station? What train station?... What do you usually do at a train station? Take a train, of course! Off we go for a three-hour train ride to Bandung, where we’ll officially start our adventure tomorrow after our first Indonesian night...

Unfortunately, we were a bit slow off the mark, which meant we missed the 6:25 PM train by two minutes. Oh well, we’ll have to wait until 11 PM. We take the opportunity to stretch our legs in Jakarta, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy the delicious smells wafting from the *warungs*—those little typical street restaurants. A quick stop at the National Monument, a detour to a night market to devour our first *kwetiaw goreng* and *teh manis* for 60,000 rupiahs (that’s 3 € for two), and just like that, our penalty is lifted, and we’re allowed to hit the road again. Off to Bandung, where we arrive at 2 AM for... a *very* short night...

Hello everyone,

I’ve wanted to take this Norway cruise for a very long time. The first time I booked it was in July 2020 with Azamara. Unfortunately, it was canceled, as everyone remembers. When I tried to book it again, the prices (already a bit high with Azamara) had simply doubled. So, since then, I’ve been keeping an eye out every year for any opportunities...

The last time we sailed with Princess was eleven years ago, and things didn’t go very well. I came back pretty unhappy with their service and quite disappointed. Despite the $600 they gave me as credit for a future cruise, I’d never set foot on one of their ships again.

But this time, the opportunity arose—a fantastic itinerary with lots of stops, a reasonable price for 16 nights (I’ll share the details in the conclusion), and a ship that’s not too big, so to speak, with only 3,000 passengers. I’m not expecting much from the cruise line this time and am boarding the ship with low expectations beyond the itinerary.

Princess has introduced an app to download before the cruise. It’s essential because online check-in is no longer available, and the agency doesn’t send a travel journal. Everything is done through the app. After completing the check-in on the app, we only know that we’ll need to pick up our key, the Medallion, at embarkation by following the blue line in the terminal and presenting our passport.



Up until our departure, the weather forecast for the coming week in Norway is disastrous—rain, rain, and more rain. It was pretty much the same two years ago before our Iceland cruise, and in the end, the weather turned out fine.

If you’re ready to embark on the Emerald Princess to discover this beautiful cruise and the stunning landscapes of Norway, let’s go!

Southampton - Sea day - Bergen - Olden - Åndalsnes - Sea day - Tromsø - Honningsvåg (North Cape) - Alta - Sea day - Molde - Trondheim - Two sea days - Edinburgh - Sea day - Southampton

Hi there! I’m Simon, and for years I’ve been exploring some of Europe’s most beautiful and well-equipped bike paths. My passion for cycling led me to start a blog where I share my travel impressions, practical tips, and photos taken along the way. I ride both well-known routes like the Alpe-Adria, the Loire à Vélo, and the Rhein Route, as well as lesser-known but equally charming regions.



In my stories, I pay special attention to the quality of infrastructure, cyclist safety, and route accessibility—for young and old, experienced riders and beginners alike. I love discovering and sharing spots that are truly welcoming for cycle tourists: well-marked, with rest areas and easy train access.

On the blog, you’ll find ready-to-follow route suggestions, tips for preparing your bike trips, and plenty of inspiration for your next adventures. I travel with my panniers, a camera in the front bag, and always keep an eye out for what’s around me. Feel free to check out my blog, Cycling Thread—you might find some ideas for your next bike getaway! :-)

* * *

I hope this won’t just be a one-off post—I’ll try to share our bike trips with you here regularly. To start: our May trip on the Elberadweg, the queen of German bike paths, between the stunning city of Dresden and Magdeburg. I invite you to visit:

Elberadweg in Germany – From Dresden to Magdeburg

The Elbe bike path is about 1200 km long, following the river from its source in the Giant Mountains in the Czech Republic to its mouth in Cuxhaven, on the North Sea. The route crosses a variety of landscapes: mountain valleys, vineyards, open plains, and coastline. As is often the case in Germany, the signage is excellent and the route easy to follow.

But what surprised us was the number of cobblestone sections! Sure, the cobblestones are well-laid and fairly smooth—but they’re still cobblestones. And when they disappear, they’re often replaced by concrete slabs, typical of river dikes. That’s just part of the face of this 30-year-old "queen"—a heritage that’s hard to replace entirely with fresh asphalt.

Along the way, don’t miss the many cultural highlights. Dresden impresses with its restored old town, the Frauenkirche, and the Brühl Terraces along the Elbe—it’s one of Germany’s most elegant cities. In Meissen, you can visit the famous porcelain factory and its Gothic cathedral. Wittenberg is a must-stop to follow in Martin Luther’s footsteps, with its castle church and Reformation Museum. And to finish, in Dessau-Roßlau, besides the Bauhaus, don’t miss the stunning Dessau-Wörlitz landscape gardens—one of the oldest English-style parks in Europe.

A few photos to give you a feel for the route and inspire you to check out our blog! :-)











Happy cycling!

Simon

Five years of an unintended break... The closure of VF, COVID... What a joy to rediscover the pleasure of sharing!

I’ve stayed true to my habits: the following account is a collection of practical tips rather than a travel journal...

Madagascar is as big as France and Belgium combined. In three weeks, choices have to be made! It was the Great Tsingy that inspired our trip. We decided to focus on the southwest and the RN7. We skipped the Deep South and the North. Oh well...

OUR ITINERARY IN 3 WEEKS:

Fri 6 June – Direct AF flight to Tana – Flight arrives at 10:30 PM – Tana Sat – Antsirabe Sun – Miandrivazo Mon – Drive to the Masiakampy pier – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Tue – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Wed – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue – Bekopaka Thu – Pirogue on the Manambolo River and Small Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Fri – Great Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Sat – Avenue of the Baobabs – Morondava Sun – Belo sur Mer Mon – Free day – Belo sur Mer Tue – Manja Wed – Andavadoaka Thu – Free day – Andavadoaka Fri – Salary Lagoon – Mangily Sat – Ranohira Sun – Isalo National Park - Ranohira Mon – Anja Reserve - Ambalavao - Fianarantsoa Tue – FCE train canceled – Visit to a Tanala village - Manakara Wed – Pirogue on the Pangalanes Canal – Ranomafana Thu – Ranomafana NP – Ranomafana Fri – Ambositra – Antsirabe Sat 28 June – AF flight to Paris – Flight departs at 11:55 PM

TRIP ORGANIZATION: I prepared my trip using the usual guides (LP and Rough Guide), the internet, and the Freytag & Berndt map (1:1,000,000). I’m old-school—I still love visualizing my route on a paper map, even though in Madagascar, it’s misleading because some National Roads are only national in name!...

The agency: Since we couldn’t deal directly with a driver-guide (we lacked reliable info to take the plunge), we went through an agency to organize the logistics of our trip. We didn’t feel like using bush taxis (not enough time) or driving a 4x4 ourselves (neither the skills nor the boldness). The French agency connected us with a local agency, to whom I sent my detailed itinerary by email. A few exchanges via email and WhatsApp calls allowed us to finalize everything quickly after some adjustments. As you’ve gathered... we multiplied the commissions, which inflated the budget. That said, in the end, we were thrilled with our decision and our choice. Our trip was booked by the end of 2024, and reservations were made immediately. No bad surprises: the bookings in the planned hotels were honored, often with one of the best rooms. On our last day in Tana, before departure, we were lucky enough to meet the director I’d been communicating with, who helped build and validate our circuit. A very warm debriefing.

The driver-guide: The agency assigned us Faly, 33, a driver-guide for over 10 years. He stayed with us from start to finish: he picked us up at the airport on arrival and dropped us off 23 days later. A very experienced driver (which is important here), an open and cultured guide, reliable, punctual, and a great companion. And a provider of good advice throughout the trip. We made the most of the long stretches on dirt roads or highways to listen to him talk about daily life, rituals, wildlife, and flora... No time wasted! With a great playlist in the background, we combined business with pleasure! Faly’s accommodation and meals were included (quite often, hotels offer free lodging and meals to driver-guides who bring clients), as was the fuel. That didn’t stop us from inviting Faly to share a beer or our evening meal sometimes. He didn’t always accept, wanting to let us "enjoy our romantic evenings," as he put it. Present without being intrusive! Faly is fully capable of organizing a tailor-made trip directly. I recommend him without any hesitation—we were delighted with his service. I’ll gladly share his contact details via PM to anyone who asks.

Local guides: It’s the national guide’s prerogative to choose the local guides (mandatory in the parks). Thanks to his experience, Faly always booked us amazing, competent, and interesting local guides.

Hotels: I told the agency I wanted charming, comfortable accommodations, without falling into flashy luxury. We loved all the hotels (except the Hôtel Kanto in Manja). The rooms, mostly bungalows, were always spacious and clean. Unfortunately, I can’t give the prices—I didn’t get the details. Breakfast is always included, usually fresh and hearty. Very often, a small bottle of water is provided in the room.

Tana Hôtel Les 3 Métis Power cuts are common (!) in Tana. Bring a headlamp.

Antsirabe Ecolodge – Les chambres du voyageur Maybe our favorite! A few bungalows, beautifully arranged in a splendid tropical garden. The dog Kodak welcomes us warmly.

Miandrivazo Hôtel Princesse Tsiribihina Magnificent view of the valley.

Bekopaka Hôtel Orchidée du Bemaraha 2 (yes, 2) beautiful pools, a large open common room.

Morondava Hôtel Baobab Café Brand new or at least, according to Faly, just renovated. Very comfortable but without much charm (international style).

Belo sur Mer Ecolodge du Menabe The bungalows, all made of wood, bamboo, and thatch, are set on the beach. Very spacious and fully equipped! Large open-air restaurant by the sea. No hot water from the tap—it’s available in plastic bottles heated by the sun in front of each bungalow. Actually, we never used it... Another very, very beautiful spot.

Manja Hôtel Kanto The only hotel on this leg of the journey, so no choice. The owner knows it and, as a result, doesn’t bother. It’s a real dive! Tiny, dark room, a sordid bathroom with only a trickle of water—we skipped the shower! Clean sheets, though. Obviously, no Wi-Fi. The only place where I didn’t leave a tip. We were well warned about the discomfort of this stop, both by the agency and Faly. We weren’t surprised, and it even became a running joke during the trip. On the other hand, we found a nice little market in town.

Andavadoaka Manga Lodge What bliss! Especially after the horrible Hôtel Kanto. A paradise-like spot, overlooking three beautiful deserted white-sand beaches. Meals are served on the terrace facing the sea. Stunning sunset. We loved spending a day lounging here! We were the only guests and were pampered.

Mangily (Ifaty) Mangily is the "suburb" of Ifaty. Hôtel Vovo Telo A large beachfront bungalow complex. More touristy but pleasant—we spent a lovely evening there with our feet in the sand.

Ranohira Le Relais de la Reine A splendid resort built by a Frenchman, at the foot of the rocks, very well integrated into the environment. Beautiful marked trail starting from the garden.

Fianarantsoa Villa Sylvestre Contrary to what its name suggests, it’s a hotel right in the city center. Quite decent, though.

Manakara Parthenay Club Pretty bungalows in a large garden by the sea, but swimming isn’t safe—the water is too dangerous and rough.

Ranomafana Hôtel Thermal Very spacious rooms.

Meals: Not all our meals were included. It’s really not expensive. 1 meat or fish dish: around 35,000 Ar 1 full menu (starter, main, dessert): around 70,000 Ar 1 large THB beer (65 cl): between 8,000 and 12,000 Ar 1 piña colada: 15,000 Ar 1 flavored rum: 6,000 Ar (sometimes free) 1 glass of baobab juice (!): 5,000 Ar

We always ate very well. Rice is everywhere, served in large quantities. Zebu meat is quite good if not overcooked. Personally, I prefer fish, and I feasted: grouper, captain, crab, small lobsters...

We happily discovered baobab juice (especially in Belo, on the west coast). And of course, flavored rums!

We bought 2 packs of 6 bottles of mineral water at Carrefour (!) (about 5,000 Ar per large bottle) at the start of our trip. That was enough, especially since we often got water in the bungalows.

We had a few picnics included in our trip. Instead of picking up the hotel’s lunchbox, Faly prepared delicious, fresh, and varied picnics for us: tuna pasta salad, fried rice with eggs, grilled vegetables, and avocado...

An exceptional address not to miss: Mad Zébu – Belo sur Tsiribihina A highly reputed restaurant, a favorite of LP and Rough Guide, and rightly so! Gourmet cuisine, refined and elegant. Barely more expensive than elsewhere, and it’s worth it. We stopped there on our way up to Bekopaka and the Tsingy NP. Fully booked! So Faly reserved for our return, three days later. We’re still thanking him! What a treat!

THE BUDGET: Ariary exchange rate: 5,000 Ar = 1 €

Pre-trip expenses: Direct Air France flights: 930 € per person round trip Cost of the circuit with the agency: 2,880 € per person

The visa: Issued on arrival, very quickly. 35 € per person for a stay under 30 days. Super simple. Super fast.

On-site expenses: As soon as we arrived at the airport (it was nearly midnight), Faly advised us to exchange our euros for all our needs. There are few opportunities on our route to find an ATM or an open bank with a good rate. To be more comfortable, he took us to a small office under military protection just outside the airport. I exchanged 1,200 € (I had asked the agency for advice on the amount to bring) at a rate of 4,750 Ar and became a millionaire. Faly recounted all the stacks. That covered all our expenses (meals, drinks, tips) without ever feeling deprived. Personal purchases were made at the end of the trip. Convenient—it served as an adjustment variable. We spent our last million (200 €) on marquetry and vanilla. Tip: We asked for 200,000 Ar in 5,000 Ar bills for tips. That wasn’t too much—I even ran short of small bills in the last two days.

Tips: Madagascar is a poor country where every service deserves a small reward. While not mandatory, it’s customary. But no one ever demanded or expected it openly. On the contrary, I sometimes had to remind a porter to give them my small bill. We never carried our luggage—porters were always present when the car arrived or waiting at our door to watch for our departure. I gave each of them 5,000 Ar. In restaurants, I rounded up to the nearest ten and left the change. Local guides also expect a tip: I gave around 20,000 Ar per day for the two of us. Finally, the national guide also expects a gratuity. I had read online to budget 5 € per day per person. I added more since we were so happy with his services. The tip was given at the end of the trip, in euros, outside the budget.

Total budget all included (excluding personal purchases): 8,690 € Clearly, Madagascar is a country where life isn’t expensive, but travel costs add up quickly due to the need to rent a 4x4 with a driver.

HIGHLIGHTS:

· The dirt roads Yes, I’m listing them among the highlights! We loved those long hours spent driving at 20 km/h on rocky, muddy, white, red, or gray sand tracks... surrounded by tropical vegetation, palm trees, pandanus, mango trees... The experiences were sometimes thrilling: crossing a river on a ferry (just planks of wood fixed on two motorized pirogues side by side) or crossing a river without a ferry, with just a kid running ahead of the 4x4 to show the way; soft sand where the 4x4 easily gets stuck... The tracks are quite narrow, and crossing paths with a bush taxi, a zebu cart, or a herd of goats is always epic. So many beautiful images, so many beautiful photos! Much more beautiful than on asphalt. So yes, we loved those long stretches on dirt roads. For us, it was clearly part of the journey. Faly was particularly careful, and the 4x4 was comfortable. No injuries, no fatigue, even after 7 or 8 hours on rough tracks. The national roads (including the famous RN7) are badly damaged by cyclones, huge trucks, and lack of maintenance. Potholes have turned into ostrich nests, and we didn’t drive much faster than on the dirt roads.

· The landscapes, villages, encounters... We crossed a variety of stunning landscapes: mountains with slopes covered in terraced crops, rice fields from apple green to emerald green, sugarcane fields, then tropical forests, baobab forests (they deserve a special paragraph below), traveler’s tree forests. And then coastlines with white sand dunes against a backdrop of blue hues!... Magical! We also passed through many villages with houses whose architecture varied by region. The Betsileo houses display beautiful decorative brick reliefs. On the west coast, the houses are more precarious, made of bamboo with palm-thatched roofs. In the Highlands region, we found solid houses with pastel plaster. Each region has its own landscape, crops, habitat, and clothing. Zebu carts are often the only means of transport in remote villages. We saw them very frequently. Again, the cart’s decoration depends on the region. And then, we met many villagers coming out of the bush and walking to the next market, carrying their crops on their heads or shoulders. More beautiful photos!

· The descent of the Tsiribihina River We boarded around 9 AM in a long pirogue with Gana, the local guide, and two pirogue men. So, five of us. The pirogue is long but narrow, about 65 cm wide. We sat one behind the other at the front on seats padded with what would become our mattresses during the bivouacs. We only took the bare essentials for two nights. A little goodbye to Faly, whom we’d see again in three days! Don’t forget us! The river is silty—meaning orange, opaque but clean. We glided along silently. Gana showed us the trees, birds, crocodiles (we saw five—apparently, we were lucky). The pirogue men rowed to get us as close as possible to these crocs sunbathing on the roots of big trees. Yeah, right!... as soon as we got too close, *splash*, they disappeared into the water. We marveled at the mini rice fields lining the river. Every tiny plot, no matter how small, is cultivated. Above them, banana fields. And on the water, a whole life of fishermen and villagers living with and from the river. Gana warned us we’d eat on the pirogue because the journey was long. So, I expected chips... But no—fried rice and zebu steak, cooked right in the pirogue!! Incredible! In the middle of the afternoon, we reached a small beach where we disembarked. Gana led us about a hundred meters to a sublime waterfall. We were alone there. We had time to swim. We’d brought our swimsuits and a towel (bought at the Carrefour in Antsirabe on Faly’s wise advice!). This swim in this paradise-like spot remains one of our best memories. We found our pirogue again and set off until our first bivouac. We’d sailed for 7 hours today. The tents were set up on a wide beach, without a single tree. A moment of solitude... Uh, where can we go to the bathroom?... Especially since it was a full moon, so we felt like we were in the spotlight. Anyway... we did as everyone else—walked away, dug a hole, and the others turned their backs. A hearty meal on the beach before a comfortable and silent night. The next day, same program, with slightly different landscapes. The gorges widened, the trees were different. But still many colorful birds. Again, we ate on the pirogue: grilled chicken and vegetables. 9 hours of sailing. A similar bivouac. This time, we got it. On the third day, we finished the descent with 5 hours of sailing. So, 7 hours, 9 hours, 5 hours... doing nothing. It might sound boring... but it wasn’t. Like the dirt roads, these were contemplative moments. It glides, it’s calm, relaxing, and there’s a lot of life on this river, animal and human. Contemplation. Suspended time. On arrival, we disembarked at a sort of joyful, bustling river port. Of course, Faly was already there to pick us up.

· The Tsingy de Bemaraha NP (Small and Great) I have vertigo. During my research, several agencies advised me against visiting the Great Tsingy. "Stick to the Small ones," they said. Grrr, no, not what I wanted—we’ve dreamed of this for years! The agency we chose also warned me but didn’t discourage me. So we started with the Small Tsingy, quite close to Bekopaka, guided by Alisha. This forest of sharp limestone rocks is impressive. No vertigo issues here. The day was completed with a short pirogue ride on the Manambolo River and a visit to two caves with pretty formations. The next day, Faly and Alisha drove us to the Great Tsingy (a good hour on a terrible track). Arriving at the park entrance, Alisha equipped us with harnesses, carabiners, and gave us some safety instructions. Faly was also equipped. Wait? He’s coming with us? I quickly understood he was there for me—if I got stuck, he could go back with me, and Philippe could continue with Alisha. A wise precaution that delighted and reassured me. In the end, it was unnecessary since the famous bridge crossing was fully secured by the harness and carabiners. 18 meters on planks, one by one, it didn’t sway too much—I walked looking straight ahead, not a glance down. I even managed to smile in the middle of the crossing—I have a photo to prove it! I was overjoyed! The circuit in the Great Tsingy is a loop, so we didn’t have to cross the bridge again. We climbed to viewpoints offering breathtaking panoramic views. It’s extraordinary, unique, incredible. All this to say that if you have vertigo, don’t hesitate! It’s doable! It’s completely safe and really worth pushing your limits a bit! For those who’ve done treetop adventure courses, it’s similar. Also, no need to be a great athlete—just a bit of agility to climb a few ladders and high steps. Don’t censor yourself! I even had a small regret—the loop was a bit short (about 2 hours). I would’ve liked to continue or even redo it, with less apprehension. Tip: Do the Small Tsingy before the Great ones, or not at all. And if you can only do one, do the Great ones without hesitation.

· Canoeing in the Belo mangrove The Belo sur Mer ecolodge lends small individual canoes for free to go to the mangrove. We left at high tide, paddled for about twenty minutes to reach a fairly sparse forest where we could easily venture in. Very shallow water, crystal clear—we could see the roots of all these trees, schools of tiny fish... It was quite surprising. Until then, I only knew impenetrable, tangled mangroves. Here, nothing like that—we walked through an aquatic forest. We loved this adventure so much we left a bit late. The tide had gone out, and we had to carry our canoes for the last few meters... Of course, the staff came to help (probably laughing silently!). The lodge owners gave all the necessary explanations and lent a waterproof bag for the phone (because yes, it’s worth taking photos!). A very useful precaution—the canoes are small, low in the water, and paddling quickly soaks you. Again, this isn’t just for Tony Estanguet! It didn’t cause us any problems, not even sore muscles the next day. A great experience. It’ll take about 2 hours.

· Isalo NP Big surprise when we saw this huge rocky massif appear on the RN7! A massif of colored sandstone, carved with crevasses giving it a ruined look. Le Relais de la Reine is a little gem cleverly nestled in the heart of these rocks. A small marked trail starts from the garden. We picked up the description at reception and set off. Without a guide, alone following the markers, it took us 2 hours to complete this magnificent little trail, giving us a first glimpse of the massif before the hike the next day. And we enjoyed being completely alone for this walk. It’s free, easy, and well-signposted. Don’t miss it. In the evening, Faly took us to the so-called Isalo Window site—a hole in a wall through which we could see the sunset. We met all the tourists in the area here. We weren’t blown away by the show... The next day, we left early to reach the start of the hike. We met Zozoly at the guides’ office in the small town of Ranohira. During this hike, we climbed through the rocks to a viewpoint offering stunning 360° views of the massif. Then we reached a site called the "natural pool," breathtakingly beautiful, especially since we were alone again. A sort of oasis, a cascading waterfall, palm trees and tree ferns, fine sand, all nestled at the bottom of a small canyon. Paradise-like. We resisted swimming, but it was really tempting. A long walk on the plateaus then led us to a well-equipped picnic site where a local team prepared grills. Concrete tables were tiered in a spacious, shady clearing where a whole family of ring-tailed lemurs frolicked. They knew the tourists’ habits and tried to snatch food. Playful and not very shy, they amused us with their antics! We had to resist not luring them with a piece of banana!! Thousands of photos!! After the meal, we set off again with Zozoly for another landscape. This time, we were by a small river at the bottom of a canyon with high walls covered in vegetation. The trail was narrow and slippery, on a ledge of the wall. We progressed carefully. No danger, though. We first reached the Blue Pool, which only turns blue in photos (surprise!), then the Black Pool fed by a shower of waterfalls. Two magnificent spots that showed us a completely different aspect of the massif.

· Anja Reserve This ficus forest is home to many groups of lemurs. Used to humans, whom they don’t fear, they move around us, ignoring us completely. It’s almost annoying... The best place on our trip to see lemurs.

· The FCE train To the great regret of Manakara’s inhabitants, the FCE train hasn’t reached here for over a year and a half. As a result, there are far fewer tourists—the train was part of the experience. We drove there and didn’t regret coming to this port on the east coast.

· Visit to a Tanala village This visit wasn’t part of our program—it was added by the agency to compensate for the train not running. Which was the case. Not big fans of this kind of visit, where we feel like we’re at a zoo, voyeuristic, lacking authenticity, we followed the local guide with some skepticism and exchanged dubious looks. And yet... the guide’s explanations about village life and the warm, smiling welcome from the villagers charmed us and dispelled all our concerns. We learned a lot, met smiling families, and were able to enter these beautiful bamboo houses. A very pleasant surprise, rich in lessons.

· The Pangalanes Canal Arriving in Manakara, we crossed a bridge overlooking the Pangalanes Canal. A cry of surprise: the water is turquoise! We took a short pirogue ride with a team of three pirogue men and Joël, a local guide who explained the drama caused by the train’s halt. We stopped in a fishing village where Joël bought fish for the barbecue. We ended up on a beach where the team prepared the meal while we went to watch the fishermen return on the nearby beach. We admired the fishermen’s dexterity in untangling their nets, sorting their fish, cleaning their gear. On our return, we found a small table set up on the beach, in the shade of palm trees and casuarinas. Lobsters, captain fish, grilled vegetables, sautéed potatoes. A real feast (included in the trip cost).

· Ranomafana NP A 4-5 hour hike (some climbing) in a dense secondary forest to look for lemurs. As usual, we were accompanied by a local guide who, while waiting to find our furry friends, gave us lots of info on the vegetation, birds, and Tanala ethnic rituals. In the forest, we met 4 or 5 trackers, armed with radios to alert guides of their findings. In the end, we saw several lemurs of different types. Quite far, quite high... A nice complement to our lemur encounters in Isalo. Here, it rains 200 days a year. We started the hike in thick fog, but the forest’s density protected us from the humidity. Be careful—it can be a bit frustrating to see the lemurs so far away, so high. Nothing like the Anja Reserve or Isalo NP. Here, what’s fun is the hunt.

· The baobabs We were captivated by these kings of the forest, noble, imposing, majestic. We spotted them from very far away, towering over the rest of the vegetation. Alone, in small groups, or in forests, our trip allowed us to see hundreds of them! Mainly on the west coast. All different—bald, hairy, shaggy, short and stout, tall and thin, like Laurel and Hardy. Philippe took to naming them. Respectfully!

OUR FAVORITES: · The variety of landscapes. · The Tsingy NP.

OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS: · The Avenue of the Baobabs, very overrated and the only place where we saw crowds. We saw many other "forests" of baobabs that were much more impressive. · It’s hard to approach the population calmly as swarms of children run up as soon as we arrive, asking for sweets. Without any aggression, their smiles and laughter quickly made us forget this small inconvenience. We never gave out candy, clothes, or money. We left pens at a school and clothes with Faly.

IF WE WERE TO DO IT AGAIN: · Same period, same duration, same pace, same itinerary, but if we were to do it again today, I’d go through Faly directly! · Maybe we should’ve stayed in Ambalavao instead of Fianarantsoa. · Plan a longer loop in the Great Tsingy—it felt a bit too short.

MISCELLANEOUS: The welcome: ‘Samala Vazaha,’ there are many, many kids, sometimes overwhelming, never aggressive. We were impressed by the villagers’ smiles and good humor, towards us or even among themselves—laughter was everywhere. Safety: No problems. Out of (excessive?) caution, we spread all our money across several bags that we padlocked whenever we left the hotel. Bribes: We were stopped several times on the road by police or gendarmes. They checked our papers, sometimes our passports. Faly was perfectly in order. No discussion, no bribes, a cordial greeting from the officers. However, several times we found ourselves at small "tolls" on the tracks for villagers who had leveled the road or filled a hole, or for the young guy who ran through the river to show the way... Faly complied without discussion: every service deserves a small bill. Language: French is still widely spoken. Credit card: Unused. Cash: You need it! The climate at this time: Ideal—blue skies, sunshine, and mild temperatures (20-25°C) throughout our trip. Temperatures started to drop by our departure—winter was setting in. Clothing: T-shirt or polo and a vest sometimes in the evening, sandals on our feet, hiking shoes for all the hikes. Tip: We left a bag in the car (completely safe) with things we didn’t need daily and dirty laundry. The two bags to take out at each stop were much lighter. Before leaving, we left several polos and T-shirts with Faly, which, once washed, will make a few people happy. Tourist crowds at this time: Low—we were sometimes the only guests at the hotel. Faly explained that at the Isalo picnic site, in high season, you have to queue for a table, whereas we had our pick. Photos: Lots! Too many! That’s the problem with digital—we take so many! Health issues: Nothing serious, just the usual mild traveler’s diarrhea. Mosquitoes: They’re voracious. We took anti-malaria treatment. I’m still not sure if it was the right thing to do... I’m always very skeptical about such precautions. Internet: Free Wi-Fi at the lodges’ reception (except at Hôtel Kanto!), sometimes (rarely) in the bungalows. Phone: We didn’t try to get a local SIM card—the evening Wi-Fi was enough for us to make calls and send messages via WhatsApp. Make sure to turn off mobile data and switch to airplane mode (I activated it a bit late—received calls, spam ones at that, were charged...). Electricity: French plugs. Personal purchases: Beautiful wooden objects (sculptures and marquetry) or zebu horn items in Ambositra. 1 kg of vanilla (400,000 Ar – 80 € per kg) in Tana.

IN CONCLUSION: A trip of contemplation. A pause for admiration, as our local guide in Isalo NP said. Nothing else to do but walk, look, and enjoy. Here, there are no old stones, no museums—it’s a trip where nature reigns supreme. And what nature!

The theme for June is: A SERIES "A series is a set of coherent images that share several common points while still being different from one another."

In 3 photos, posted simultaneously in the same message, I’d like you to tell me a little story with a few words. You’re allowed 2 series.

They can be narrative or thematic. For example: 3 shots representing 3 professions, 3 places of worship, 3 market stalls, 3 trains... the ideas are endless—whether in the same place or in different countries... or 3 images of the same place, photographed from 3 different angles, under 3 different lights... or 3 images where the predominant color is the same... Narrative and theme can, of course, overlap.

Practical details:

Participation Each VF member can submit up to 2 series, until Saturday, June 21 at 11:59 PM Paris time. Each series of 3 photos must be presented in a single message, with its number indicated (series 1, series 2).

Voting: Each VF member can vote for the 3 series they consider the best, based on their own criteria and the theme.

Voting will take place from Saturday, June 21 at midnight until Saturday, June 28 at 11:59 PM Paris time.

The selected series will be ranked in order of preference: - 1st series: 3 points - 2nd: 2 points - 3rd: 1 point

The winner is the author of the series with the most points.

Results will be published on June 29 during the day. In case of a tie, the number of first-place votes will decide. The winner will have the honor of organizing July 2025’s contest.

Photos that have won (1st, 2nd, or 3rd place) in another VF contest are not eligible for this one.

This thread is exclusively for series submitted to the contest. All discussions, comments, and other chatter should take place in this thread.

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Narrative: In Bali, I took a cooking class. We went to the market to shop with the teacher. We cleaned and prepped the ingredients to make, among other things, a lovely salad.







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Narrative and thematic: I really loved this place 30 km from Essaouira. A little souk "just as it is," as they say. The souk of Ida Ougourd.







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Thematic: Green in nature. The green of tea plantations in Munnar, a bamboo forest in Les Landes, and a park in Tokyo.

Hi, I’m heading to Viti Levu, the main island, for a few days’ vacation. I usually rent a two-wheeler to keep some independence. On several forums, people advised against it—first because it’s not really the local culture, and also because of the road conditions and local driving habits. But I’m a bit wary of English-language forums where the typical vacation is just airport-resort-airport with a taxi in between. Can you confirm if it’s really that risky compared to, say, Southeast Asia? What are the alternatives? Buses, taxis? Thanks!

I'm heading to MEXICO IN NOVEMBER 2025. Since private guides and drivers are really expensive—over 300 € per day—I'm thinking of exploring the Yucatán by train. CAN YOU SHARE ANY INFO ON THIS? Thanks

Before I begin, I’d like to thank Michèle Buisson and her "Misha’s travel journals," which really helped me plan this trip. It’s tough to find information about this part of India, which is quite different from the "more traditional India." I’m so grateful to her for introducing me to a family who hosted me for 4 nights and 3 days. I can’t wait to return the favor and welcome you all to my place in early July!

Thursday, March 20th. The alarm goes off super early, but I’m already awake—I was too worried I’d sleep through it. I leave the house at 4:00 AM. The rain has stopped, and at this hour, there aren’t many trucks on the road. I arrive at Barcelona Airport easily by 6:20 AM, let the valet know I’m there, and he quickly picks up my car. This time, I’m flying with Etihad Airways again. I booked the ticket during my trip to Cambodia: Barcelona/Kolkata, Delhi/Barcelona for 567 €. At that price, I didn’t hesitate for long—I knew I had to take it. And I’m glad I did because, by the time I returned, the price had gone up to 700 €. I can already hear the reactions: "Wow, how’d you get a ticket for that price? What site did you use? You’re amazing, MarieJo!" One thing’s for sure—I’m really happy with this deal. The flights from Barcelona to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Kolkata go smoothly, and we arrive on time at 2:55 AM. There aren’t many people at immigration, so I get through quickly. My luggage isn’t on the carousel yet. After collecting my bag, I check in for my next flight with IndiGo, a 5:40 AM flight to Guwahati, arriving at 7:00 AM. I’m starting to feel pretty tired, so I take a taxi from the airport to Gruham Sojourn Homestay. The house is upstairs, and the neighborhood seems quiet, with restaurants lining the street. The room won’t be ready until 10:00 AM, so I rest on the bench in the meantime. Once in the room, I take a shower—it really helps me feel refreshed. I need to exchange some euros, so I look up a nearby exchange bureau on Google and head out to find it. I locate it easily, and the staff are super friendly. I get a great rate (1 € = 90 INR). I wander around the neighborhood. The train station isn’t far, and small markets line the streets. I head back to my area, walking along the main avenue. About 500 meters from my street, I discover a museum. The visit is fascinating—I see the famous Majuli masks, among other things.



I’m not far from the Brahmaputra River, and the temptation to visit is too strong to resist. I’d hoped to find a promenade along the river, but that doesn’t exist here. I walk back calmly and notice several restaurants in my street. On the doorstep of my accommodation, I spot a pastry shop with cakes that look more like the ones we have in France than the typical ones here in India. A visit is a must, and I’m not disappointed!



Tonight, I’m dining at a restaurant in the street. The menu is a bit disappointing—burgers, pizzas, pasta—nothing very Indian. So, I’ll go with tomato pasta.

Hi there,

I’m currently looking for a bike to do my first bike trip across France, with the ultimate goal of cycling through Latin America. I’ve got a lot of questions and I’d love to hear if you have any answers or advice to share. First off, I’ve been through this before with hiking. I want to get top-quality gear right away. When I started hiking, I ended up buying everything three times—first beginner gear, then intermediate, then expert, etc. For biking, I’d prefer to skip that process and invest right now in a bike that could ideally handle Latin America. I’ve set a total max budget of around 5000 € (roughly 4000–4500 € for the bike and the rest for accessories: panniers, helmet, cycling shorts, etc.).

So, I’ve got quite a few questions:

* I’ve read in several places that some people recommend buying the bike directly in Latin America. Since I need a first bike to train in Europe, would it be better to buy an entry-level bike in France (and sell it before the big departure)? Or is it preferable to start right away with my final bike to get used to it? Is buying it there just to save a bit of money?

* For a long-term trip (around six months) in Latin America, is it better to go for a gravel bike or a mountain bike?

* Should I buy a new bike or a refurbished one? Even more so given that I’m planning a long trip—could a refurbished bike end up causing more breakdowns?

If you have any advice on models, technical features to prioritize, or recommended sellers or resellers, I’d love to hear it. I’m a total beginner—I’ve only just started watching videos and reading up on the subject, and all the technical specs are new to me!

Thanks in advance for your help!

We're planning a round-the-world trip in a 4x4 with a roof tent and all the gear. We're wondering which African country allows tourists to buy a vehicle (left-hand drive)? Thanks for any tips—they’ll be super helpful!

Hi everyone, In a month, I’ll be on the *Renaissance* with Compagnie Française de Croisières. I’d just love to hear your thoughts on this ship—what you liked, what you liked less, etc. Thanks to all of you! Have a great day

My friend and I are arriving in New Delhi on March 4th at 12:05 AM. Could anyone recommend a decent and affordable hotel? Is 20 € the going rate? Thanks!

Hi, we’ll be 2 adults and 2 kids, and I’d like to know if, from Bangkok airport, we can find a taxi—or through the Grab app—to make the trip to Ban Phe, then on to Koh Samet, without getting ripped off. Thanks for your help. Stéphanie

Hello, I’m Buddhist by conviction. Even though I don’t practice anymore, I have a Buddhist altar at home that’s becoming increasingly ecumenical—just like in India, it includes Ganesha, the Holy Family, a Virgin of Lourdes, several Shivas, Tara, Avalokiteshvara, and more... I was hoping to buy a beautiful wooden, stone, or metal Buddha statue in Thailand. On top of that, I wanted to have my statue "blessed." But then I heard it’s forbidden to take any statue or representation of Buddha out of the country... What’s the reality in practice? Have any of you brought back a Buddha statue or other representation in your luggage? Did you make the mandatory declaration? Thanks

Hi there, I just got back from a trip to Sri Lanka from December 18th to January 1st with 2 adults and 2 kids (12 years old). If it helps, here’s my itinerary.

We left on December 18th from Madrid with Qatar Airways. No complaints. I booked my tickets back in March for 800 € per person. (I flew from Madrid because I live near the Spanish border and was too worried about strikes in France.) We arrived on December 19th at 4 PM (local time). Before leaving France, I’d booked a taxi through MyTransfer for 59 € to Sigiriya. A van was waiting for us at the airport exit. A never-ending 3-hour drive to Sigiriya. We stayed at Samana Guesthouse—very simple, clean, with a pool and an excellent Sri Lankan breakfast. Shower and straight to bed.

Friday, December 20th: Beautiful weather, but very humid and hot. We visited Lion Rock (36 € for adults) and then Pidurangala. I loved both sites—they’re a must-do in my opinion. Spent the late afternoon by the pool.

Saturday, December 21st: Another gorgeous day. The guesthouse manager offered us a free 2-hour tuk-tuk tour. We first visited a lake, rice fields, the temple, and the Sigiriya market, plus the usual tourist trap—the botanical garden (no pressure to buy anything at the end). Then we took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Temple, the Golden Buddha, and the wholesale market.

Sunday, December 22nd: Still beautiful weather. I’d booked a taxi for 8 AM. We did all the long trips by taxi to save time. I’d ask for prices from 2 or 3 WhatsApp taxi agencies 2 days or the day before—super responsive, always got replies within 5 minutes. We headed to Ella (4-hour drive) for 22,000 LKR. Arrived in the afternoon at Rest Full Homestay—a small, family-run guesthouse. Clean, cozy, and an amazing Sri Lankan breakfast. In the afternoon, we went to Nine Arches Bridge. It was a Sunday, a Sri Lankan holiday, so it was *packed*—mostly locals and very few white tourists! Even though it was crowded, it was cool because it was all Sri Lankans. We waited an hour for the train. It’s worth seeing, but honestly, I didn’t think it was that amazing. Then we headed to the station to check if we needed to book tickets for the train to Haputale—turns out, no.

Monday, December 23rd: Beautiful weather. We hiked Ella Rock—a gorgeous trek. The final stretch is steep but shaded, so it wasn’t as tough as I’d read. The whole hike is stunning from start to finish. We saw the train pass twice (one blue, one red) and lots of women picking tea. After that, we did Little Adam’s Peak. It’s not hard, but it was *packed* with tourists—meh. Luckily, at the top, you can walk a bit farther (down one side and back up) to get some space to yourself. What I *didn’t* like was the commercial vibe at the big café/restaurant with a pool at the entrance of Little Adam’s Peak. Loud music, all that money being made right next to little souvenir stands run by Sri Lankans or tea-picking women. Felt off. Ended the day buying souvenirs at one of the few shops we found during the trip.

Tuesday, December 24th: Beautiful weather. Took the train to Haputale. We got to the station 30 minutes before the 9:30 AM train. We could’ve taken 2nd or 3rd class—I went with 2nd (160 LKR per person). It was crowded, but we managed to get seats—first 2, then 3. Only a 1-hour ride, but I *loved* it—windows and doors open the whole time. Arrived in Haputale around 11 AM, and the mist was already rolling in. We walked to our guesthouse, The Mist Holiday Bungalow. Simple but clean, with a great view of the tea plantations. The owner’s wife is Vietnamese and used to work for French tour operators, so her French is still pretty good—helpful for us since our English is terrible. They booked us a tuk-tuk for 4:45 AM the next day (2,000 LKR) to Lipton’s Seat. Spent the afternoon wandering around Haputale. Not much charm, but there’s a nice fruit and veggie market and a short walk through the tea plantations.

Wednesday, December 25th: Beautiful weather. The tuk-tuk was on time to take us to Lipton’s Seat. We were the first ones there—the sky was just starting to turn pink. In the end, only about ten of us watched the sunrise. The guesthouse had packed us breakfast, and we walked back down (half on the road, half through the plantations). Didn’t see any tea picking since it was Christmas, but the walk was still incredible. We took detours through villages full of kids. After that, we visited the tea factory. The tour was really interesting, and we took the bus back down to Haputale. Such a great moment—whole families were heading to mass, dressed up and made up. All so beautiful.

At noon, we left for Udawalawe National Park. Taxi for 14,000 LKR. Stayed at River Inn Safari Cottage. *Warning*: It’s the same place as Eagle Safari Cottage. I don’t recommend it. We’d always stayed with families before, but here it was just staff—totally different vibe. The pool was nice but not very clean (water was murky). The bungalow was big and fine, but it was brand new—so new the asphalt floor wasn’t fully dry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we had to eat on-site. Couldn’t leave a review on Booking because they never confirmed we’d stayed, and they canceled our reservation the next day.

Thursday, December 26th: Beautiful weather. I’d booked a safari through the hotel for 5:30–10 AM for 54 USD. Honestly, yes, there are a lot of jeeps, but it was great. The kids loved it—we saw everything there was to see. Left by taxi at 11:30 AM for Welligama (12,000 LKR). We didn’t stay in Welligama city but at Coconut Beach, between Welligama and Midigama. *Total crush* on the guesthouse: Sky Mountain Café with View. Such a lovely family. The mom makes amazing meals at reasonable prices. The view from the hill over the sea is unreal. Spent the afternoon walking along the beach.

Friday, December 27th: Beautiful weather. My kids are surfers. Unfortunately, there weren’t any boards their size to rent at Coconut, so we took a tuk-tuk to Welligama Bay (1,000 LKR). They surfed from 8 AM to 5 PM—rental was 5,000 LKR for the day. Meanwhile, we walked the beach and swam. Water was 29°C.

Saturday, December 28th: Beautiful weather, rain from 4 PM until midnight. Same surf day. They were so well-behaved the whole trip, so this was their reward.

Sunday, December 29th: Beautiful weather. Beach day at Coconut. *Warning*: It’s a reef break. For surfers, there are three spots (Coconut Left, Middle, and Right). The boys bodysurfed (with fins) all morning, and at 1 PM, we took the bus to Hikkaduwa. Stayed at Hotel Universal Beach. Nothing special—right on the water, but the rooms were dark even though they were clean. The manager was super nice, but the rest was meh, and breakfast was mediocre compared to what we’d had before (2 eggs and 3 slices of toast). Plus, it was late—8 AM. First impression of Hikkaduwa wasn’t great—way too many Russians for our taste.

Monday, December 30th: Beautiful weather. Spent the whole day exploring. Turtle Beach, then the other side of the beach (toward Galle) near the fishing port. The beach there is much wider, with scattered hotels and super quiet. It’s beautiful—I should’ve booked somewhere in that area. Ended up having a great day away from the crowds.

Tuesday, December 31st: Overcast, then beautiful, rain at 4 PM. Had to end the year (and the trip) with some surf. Rented boards for the kids (3,000 LKR per board for the day). Bad luck—the waves were on a reef break but small. Not great for them, but no big deal. They still got out of the water by 2 PM. Walked the beach (which is gorgeous), had a juice, and went for a swim. Then back to surfing in the rain at 4 PM.

Wednesday, January 1st: Left by taxi at 5 AM (18,000 LKR). Flight at 10 AM. Arrived in Madrid at 8 PM.

CRETE Spring 2024 from April 11 to May 9

Thursday, April 11: Flight Montreal – Athens (Air Canada # AC 898) Flight Athens – Heraklion (Air Agean # A 3318) Fri 12, Sat 13, and Sun 14 April: Heraklion: Marin Dream Hotel: room great (a bit cramped); location great; breakfast excellent. Spectacular view (5th floor) of the port, balcony, close to the center and restaurants, cleanliness and comfort. I’ll definitely go back! We enjoyed this city, often unfairly criticized because it’s compared to the "three beauties." It’s a great entry point to the island, lets you catch your breath after a few hours of flying and jet lag, and you won’t get bored for 2-3 days. Monday, April 15 am: Car rental (pickup at the airport) Rental company: Auto Europe / Enterprise. Opel Corsica. Efficient and courteous service. Clean car in good condition. No issues. Quick return. I’ll rent again. PS: The two trips between the city center and the airport: public transport (bus): fast, efficient, and cheap.

Mon 15, Tue 16, and Wed 17 April: Agios Nikolaos Highlights: Kritsa, Knossos, Spinalonga, and Mochlos (for the breathtaking descent and the restaurant (Taverna Natural) a short distance from the descent). Accommodation in Ammoudara 72 100 (7-8 km from A.N.): Panorama Bay Villas Apartments. Location (elevated with a view of the blue sea), setting (unbeatable view), convenience, cleanliness, pool: Excellent. I’d run back here. A breakfast in Kritsa is lovely.

Thu 18 and Fri 19 April: Mirtos 720 56: A small seaside town, a bit sleepy, that can be summed up by a main street parallel and very close to the sea, with simple and smiling people. A base for lovely mountain hikes... and Gortyn. Accommodation: Hotel Mirtos: I’ve seen better! But it was only for 2 nights, and considering the rates, the enormous breakfast, and the kindness of the lady... it’s hard to complain. I’d go back if I’m in the area... for 1 or 2 nights. A taverna worth mentioning: Sigelakis, in Sivas. Sat 20, Sun 21, and Mon 22 April: Matala area: Matala: can someone explain the hype? But we were charmed by the region, its small villages (a little nod to Agia Galini), a small mountain school with its students and teacher, and its hidden little beaches... and a taverna (whose owner was a shepherd in another life) and a restaurant where we had our 3 dinners (no need to look elsewhere!). Accommodation in Kamilari(on) 700 20: Aelia Apartments: A long, narrow road through olive groves... the further we went, the more we thought we were on the wrong track! Phew! What an apartment (kitchenette, living room, two bedrooms including one in a mezzanine, balcony). Phew! What a setting, overlooking the surroundings from the terrace! I’d book again right away! Tue 23, Wed 24, and Thu 25 April: Plakias: A favorite! A lovely seaside walk with several terrace bars for an aperitif and really feeling on vacation. Morning hikes and discoveries, and in the afternoon, beach-pool at all-inclusive resorts a few kilometers away (one drink gets you in) and other small beaches. The charm of Spili, the softness of Loutro, and the enchantment of the Imbros Gorge. Accommodation: Horizon Beach Hotel: on the upper floor, a large bright room, a big balcony, and the vast sea right in front of us. Great location. A 10-15 minute walk from the center of Plakias. A great find: I’ll remember this address. In the center, on a street perpendicular to the sea, at the end of this street on your left (facing a tiny bar), one of our best dinners in Crete. The Plakias-Chora Sfakion road is breathtaking, but avoid the road—or rather the path—that hugs the sea too closely... which we didn’t do. Guaranteed sweating!

Fri 26, Sat 27, Sun 28, and Mon 29: Chania: The "big" city. The contrast with the Cretan countryside! Chania offers many attractions for tourists. We happily got "lost" in its alleys. We really enjoyed the quays for a drink at any time and for the lively atmosphere... but I wouldn’t want to be there in July! Accommodation: Boutique Hotel Del Doge. Good location. Close to the port and well soundproofed. A slightly faded decor but very decent. Spacious room and a somewhat narrow bathroom. Parking in a vacant lot along the sea: a 15-20 minute walk. I’d go back unless I find something better! Our favorite spots: we’ll remember Faka, To Stachi, and a restaurant in the center of a small square in the old part (every time we passed by, the TV was on a sports channel!) for the food, service, and friendliness of the staff. AND the ice cream! Great excursions to Valmos and Balos, Kefalas, Kaviles, Almirida, and Gavalochori. Three (3) days would have been enough to get a good sense of the city and the immediate area. It’s not a city—and I’m not even talking about the historic part—where it’s easy to drive. Tue 30, Wed May 1, and Thu 2: Paleochora. Or rather near Paleochora, in Kountoura Selinou (730 01), we stayed at Vienna Rooms Apartments. A few kilometers from the city, a short 10-minute drive, in a lovely olive grove that makes you forget the greenhouses that proliferate in the neighborhood. A large green garden, a big pool, tranquility, and the sea in front of you. Lovely apartments, well furnished, functional, and brand new (still smells new!) On the P-KS road, halfway, on the sea side, there’s a small, brand-new hotel where I’ll stop next time. What a view from the upper floor! Paleochora is a charming little town with a pleasant seaside promenade and an inner street parallel to it, lined with pretty shops. And an important detail: there’s a well-stocked wine bar, Monika Wine Bar, with attentive staff. A good selection of restaurants and a superb breakfast offering. What extraordinary excursions! Elafonissi, Sougia by boat, and up high, many tiny villages and breathtaking panoramas! Fri 03, Sat 04, and Happy Easter May 05: Rethymnon Accommodation: Hotel Casa dei Delfini. Very well located, comfortable, modern, with a certain prestige. A large dining room, stone walls, and a monumental staircase... feels like a castle (parador) in Spain... and a great breakfast. Friendly staff. The market where you can park is a 10-minute walk away. I’ll book again. Of the three "beauties" of Crete, this is our favorite. The center doesn’t (yet) have the "shopping mall" vibe that Chania has a bit too much. It feels good there. It has a cheerful air. Great restaurants. Easter day: visit around Arkadi. Otherwise, we strolled through the city to soak in the beauty of this island. Mon 06, Tue 07, and Wed 08 May: Athens. Flight Aegean #3307 (from Heraklion) Thu 09 May: Return flight: Athens-Montreal. Air Canada #899.

This was our second trip to Greece but our first to Crete. I say "first" because we’re seriously thinking of coming back in May 2025. We traveled in the blooming spring, so without the tourist crowds, and with restaurant and hotel staff in good shape... we could imagine what Crete must be like between July 15 and August 15!!! So our comments should be considered with that in mind. We’re a couple, she’s 76, and he—the driver, GPS, road map, and more—is 79. We’re living proof that Cretan roads are good. They wind, which is normal—we’re in the mountains—sometimes narrow, which is normal—we’re in the mountains—but they’re in very good condition, and Cretan drivers are respectful. Ideal travel climate: not a drop of rain or I don’t remember any! We’ll come back in May for a bit more warmth to enjoy the sea more. Food: the quality and quantity of breakfasts; dinners are good or even very good but sometimes a bit "copy-paste." Landscapes, green mountains, dark canyons (what we saw at 76+79), and endless deep blue, breathtaking. Tomatoes, olives, and honey: we’d want more. The trust restaurateurs show: you have to insist to get the bill!!! Easter: we were in Rethymnon: the crowd was much less oppressive than in Chania two weeks earlier. The kindness and eagerness of people in shops and on the street... which doubles or triples when you stammer a few words of Greek. Our favorites: Kamilari, Plakias, and... Heraklion, yes. In short, we loved it!

PS: Car rental: Why Auto Europe (Enterprise)? The ‘small local rental companies’ don’t rent (re: insurance) to people over 75 springs old!

I'm planning to drive to the UAE by road, going through Iraq. Has anyone done this and can give me some info? Specifically about the border crossings Turkey/Iraq and Iraq/Kuwait.

Hello, After much hesitation about the direction, we finally bought our flight tickets (we splurged on Premium): it’ll be a 15-day road trip starting from Los Angeles in June 2025. We want to do our "farewell tour" by saying goodbye one last time to the landscapes of the "Grand Circle" that amazed and fascinated us during 4 trips between 2008 and 2012. Practical question for choosing a vehicle (possibly a Toyota RAV4 from Alamo): should we opt for the GPS supplement (over 200 € for 15 days; they only "gift" the second driver)? In our previous trips, we didn’t have one, and we don’t really remember struggling in L.A., San Francisco, Las Vegas, Salt Lake City, or Denver. It would mainly be useful for driving through Los Angeles at the start and end of the trip, but not really elsewhere... On the other hand, I’m thinking that there must be few vehicles without GPS in service in the U.S. these days, and maybe an upgrade at pickup isn’t out of the question (?). If that doesn’t happen and we have last-minute regrets, can we change our minds and take the option without being too financially penalized compared to booking in advance? That’s the (very 😉) little dilemma of the moment. Thanks for your insights and advice!

Hi, I’m going on a solo cruise from Marseille to Hamburg—13 nights, 4 days at sea on the Costa Favalosa. The stops are Genoa, Barcelona, Málaga, Cádiz, Porto, A Coruña, Le Havre, and Hamburg. I’ve booked a Costa excursion for Porto and Hamburg that ends at the airport. I plan to explore the other stops on my own (I’ve already visited Barcelona and Málaga). The stops should be pretty easy to do solo, but I’d love any tips on A Coruña. I’d also like to know if there’s a shuttle to get out of the port in Le Havre or go into the city center. Looking forward to exchanging ideas with others who might be doing this route! Best, Varoise

Hi everyone, I know my post might sound a bit repetitive with the questions asked regularly on this forum, but I’m feeling a little lost and thought I’d still ask for your help. Here’s my situation: I’m traveling to Thailand with my wife and 12-year-old son during the February 2025 school holidays. We’ll be spending 12 nights in the country. So far, I only have our flight tickets to and from Phuket. Now, I need to plan an itinerary that lets us discover beautiful places and the culture of this country. I’d like to stay by the sea, with stunning fine-sand beaches and breathtaking landscapes in areas that aren’t too urban, but also be able to see some beautiful monuments, typical villages, and wildlife not too far away. That said, I don’t want to be lost deep in the jungle either—I’d like a bit of atmosphere in the evenings (no nightclubs, but rather nice bars with music). I’ve done some research and here’s a first draft of what I might do:

Spend my first 3 nights in the suburbs of Phuket to explore the city and the province more broadly, Then head to Ko Yao Noi for 2 nights to discover the charms of Phang Nga Bay, Next, fly from Krabi to spend 4 nights on Koh Samui (maybe with a little excursion to Ko Pha Ngan?), Then fly back to Krabi to reach Koh Phi Phi for 2 nights, Finally, return to the Phuket area for my last night in Thailand to be close for my flight the next day.

The idea is to explore several places without having to pack and unpack every day, and to avoid spending hours on transport every day. What do you think? Do the places seem relevant? If so, does the number of nights seem appropriate? Thanks in advance for your help, Best regards, Lionel

Hello, how are you all? To be honest, this isn't really a "deep" topic—just a quick note to say I'm really happy VoyageForum is finally back up. I hope everyone who contributed to this site is still around, still traveling, and in good health. For my part, travel didn’t really stop despite the COVID crisis. Looking forward to sharing photos, travel stories, and discussions with all of you again. Jacques And I’ll share a photo right away—taken last year in the Vichada region of Colombia, where I’m heading back in 2 weeks.

Welcome back to VF!

Hello,

I’ve planned a 3.5-week trip to Chile in February/March 2025, with the goal of driving the Carretera Austral from Puerto Montt to Caleta Tortel in a rented 4x4. The itinerary is set, accommodations are booked, and the 4x4 is reserved. We could still tweak things a bit, but it’s getting harder to find available lodging in some spots.

Here’s the planned route: - 1 night in Puerto Montt on arrival day - 2 nights in Castro (Chiloé Island) - 2 nights near Ensenada - 1 night in Horniporén - 1 night in Chaitén - 3 nights in Puyuhuapi - 2 nights in Coyhaique - 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane - 2 nights in Caleta Tortel - 3 nights in Puerto Guadal - 1 night in Chile Chico (to take the ferry across the lake) - 1 night in Villa Cerro Castillo before flying out from Balmaceda

I have a few questions about the activities we’d like to do:

The **Marble Caves**: I’d love an option that lets us "go inside" them. From what I’ve read, this depends on the water level, wind, and type of boat. Any tips or advice? We’d like to do an **excursion to see condors**. We were thinking of doing this while in Coyhaique (we’re staying 2 nights). Has anyone done this? With which agency? We’re spending 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane. The idea is to **explore the vast Patagonia Park and its wildlife**. But I’m not sure where to start. Any recommendations for day hikes or itineraries? I read somewhere that you can do a day trip with a guide that includes a boat ride on Lake Cochrane, but I can’t find the booking info. An agency for **glacier exploration** (we were thinking of **Lake Leones Glacier**). I contacted Ruta León but haven’t heard back. Any agencies to recommend?

Thanks so much! Pascale

Bonjour à tous, Bienvenue à tous si vous souhaitez embarquer une seconde fois cette saison* pour cette magnifique croisière sur les côtes françaises. Elle nous a conduit sur quelques-unes des très belles îles de la Bretagne et fait découvrir des paysages remarquables.

*CR de PapiJP35

Samedi 29 août 2020, embarquement

Nous sommes depuis deux jours à Saint-Malo, et après qu’il ait plu toute la nuit, le ciel de ce matin est bas, lourd et noir. Nous nous y étions mentalement préparés. J’avais choisi cette semaine en prenant garde d’éviter celle des grandes marées (souvent propice au mauvais temps), mais la météo nous annonce tout de même une semaine catastrophique. Notre première préoccupation est d’aller vérifier que le bateau est bien arrivé. Rituel tellement plaisant, qui gonfle le cœur de joie. Nous marchons le long du port de plaisance sous ce lourd ciel breton, et oui, le Jacques Cartier est bien amarré au pied des remparts. La balade est très plaisante, le bateau est beau et parait imposant dans ce petit port à taille humaine, la ville est belle…. Et je monte sur mon petit nuage de bonheur pour ne plus en redescendre avant une semaine.

Pour la durée de la croisière Ponant nous a proposé de laisser la voiture sur un parking qui se situe à 2.7 km du port, le prix est de 3.30€ par jour et des navettes sont mises en place pour transférer les passagers jusqu’au bateau.

Nous avons cependant préféré laisser notre voiture au parking Qpark juste devant la porte d’entrée principale de la vieille ville parce que c’est un parking couvert, nous avons payé 55€ pour la semaine et nous sommes à 5 minutes à pieds du bateau (600m). Très bien, s’il ne pleut pas.

Après une très belle averse en début d’après-midi qui a vidé les rues de la ville en quelques minutes, nous embarquons à 16 h sous le soleil. Des tentes sont installées sur le port en guise de terminal de croisière, et dès notre arrivée nous sommes accueillis avec beaucoup de gentillesse et de prévenance. En dépit des mesures covid, nous arrivons à notre cabine en 20 minutes et nos bagages nous ont déjà précédés. Nous avons à ce moment le grand plaisir de découvrir que nous avons été surclassés au pont 4. Nous devons ce cadeau au Directeur des Départements Hôteliers de PONANT. En effet ce Monsieur était avec nous sur le LYRIAL en Corse, en télé travail 😉. Souvent mon mari a discuté avec lui et à la fin de la croisière il a dit qu’il nous réservait une surprise pour notre Croisière en Bretagne. Nous n’y pensions plus, et nous avons été contents et très touchés de cette généreuse surprise.

La différence entre les cabines du pont 3 et celles du pont 4 se porte au niveau du balcon. Au pont 3, la partie au-dessous de l’appui en bois est pleine et l’on ne voit pas la mer. Au pont 4 cette partie sous l’appui en bois est en verre et cela donne plus de lumière et une jolie vue lorsque l’on est assis. Le bateau est tout neuf, dans des tons très harmonieux, reposants, et clairs. La décoration est épurée dans des matières naturelles aux tons doux et confortables. Très beau et original le plafond miroir du grand salon. Et très lumineux le salon panoramique avec de larges baies vitrées qui permettent une vue très dégagée. En juillet nous avions sur le LYRIAL des produits Hermès en petits flacons individuels, cette fois ce sont des produits Clarins en distributeurs, les marques françaises sont très présentes, dans tous les domaines, partout sur le bateau, y compris à table et dans la boutique.

Cette fois, nous sommes 68 passagers à embarquer sur cette croisière pour 107 membres d’équipage. Des naturalistes nous avons appris que la compagnie espérait 70 passagers par croisière pour être satisfaite de ces croisières dans les conditions hors normes et exceptionnelles de cet été 2020. Ils nous ont dit aussi que si cet objectif était atteint cette destination pourrait être reconduite l’année prochaine. Cette version est bien différente de ce que peuvent écrire certains journalistes et me semble plus cohérente. Qui a pu croire que des bateaux feraient le plein un été comme celui-ci ? Ces bateaux-là, eux, ne sont pas restés vides et à quai.

Ce programme sur les côtes françaises a été monté en trois mois, entre les contacts à prendre et les autorisations à obtenir, quand il faut deux ans habituellement pour établir un nouvel itinéraire. Ce qui est plutôt une belle prouesse.